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1 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 1 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
AGM (Quality & Product Development)
B Sc in Textile Engineering (ADUST)
Cell: +880 1708 454 779
Email: mizan5379@gmail.com
Skype: mizan_mehben
2 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 2 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
1. Finishing Machines introduce
2. Standard Operating System
3. Fabrics Finishing Procedure
4. Heat Set Procedure
5. Mechanical Finish
6. Chemical Finish
7. Reporting System
3 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 3 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
Finishing Process Flow Chart:
Delivery to Garments
Tube Compact.
Peach Finish Brush Finish
Stenter
De-Watering Slitting.
Dryer(Tube/collar) Stenter
Dyeing
Open Width Compact
Inspection
Finish Fabrics Store
Combing
Sharing
4 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 4 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
Finishing Department Head Job Responsibility:
1. Planning & Monitoring of Production Target.
2. Ensure that the Quality Standard is being met by Forecasting
& reviewing the result.
3. Develop Discipline, by implementing the Rules &Regulation in
Department.
4. Ensure acceptable Quality level (AQL) in textile manner.
5. Give a continuous guidance to the Executive, along with others
for target fabric specification.
6. Supervision constantly to Grey & Final QC.
7. Give the full support the Research & Development
Department.
8. Make a continuous study of work improvement & give report to
the higher authority.
9. Response & act in the customer complain & query.
10. Ensure that all safety followed by the team.
11. Continuously study the Cost saving of the Department.
12. Enthusiastic to wastage utilization.
13. Optimize Manpower Utilization.
14. Worker Turnover & Absenteeism control as per Plan.
15. Skill Development in the Floor.
16. Ensure that all Lab test Report (Physical) are recorded.
17. Follow the concept of Top Management.
18. Regularly held a meeting to all people once in a week/ Time
to time.
19. Co-ordination with all departments all quality parameter
inform time to time all department.
20. Check the hold fabric & give decision quickly.
5 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 5 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
1. Finishing Machines introduce
 Slitting Machine
 Squeezer Machine
 Hydro Exeter
 Stenter Machine
 Dryer Machine
 Open width Compactor
 Tubular Compactor
 Brushing Machine
 Sueding Machine
 Emerizing Machine
 Combing Machine
 Sharing Machine
 Tumble dryer
 Singing Machine
 Bag Sewing Machine
6 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 6 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
Slitting Machine: ‡hB †gwk‡bi mvnv‡h¨ wUDe Kvco‡K †K‡U
I‡cb Kiv nq, Zvnv‡K wmwjwUs †gwkb e‡j|
wmwjwUs †gwkb:
1.wUDe Kvco †K I‡cb Kiv nq|
2.c¨vWv‡i mvnv‡h¨ Kvc‡oi cvwb AcmviY Kiv nq|
3.UzBó K›Uªj Kiv|
7 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 7 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
mZK©Zv:
1.wj‡Wj Wªc eivei KvwUs Ki‡Z n‡e|
2.wj‡Wj Wªc bv _vK‡j UzBó wi‡gvf K‡i wmwjwUs Ki‡Z n‡e, Zv bv
n‡j Kvc‡oi UzBó †ewk n‡e|
3.Kvc‡oi ‡Ubkb †ewk _vK‡Z cvi‡e bv| wms‡KR †ewk n‡e|
4.c¨vWvi ‡cÖmvi †ewk _vK‡j †mW jvBU n‡q hv‡e|
5.c¨vWv‡ii †cªmvi wWcv‡iÝ _vK‡Z cvi‡e bv, †mW Avb B‡eb n‡e|
6. c¨vWv‡ii wcKvd % 60 Gi Dc‡i n‡Z cvi‡e bv| Kvc‡o
md&Ubvi wcK Ki‡e bv| Kvco big n‡e bv|
7.c¨vWv‡ii nvW©b¨vm mgvb _vK‡Z n‡e me RvqMvq|
¸iæZ¡c~Y© Ask we‡kl:
1. Cutter
2. Padder
3. Dancing Roller
4. Centering Devises
5. Auto Motion Cutter
6. Delivery side Relaxation system
7. J-Box devises
8. Auto twist adjustment
9. Water flow system
10. Air pressure devises
8 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 8 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
SOP (Standard Operating Procedure)
Adjustment.
1. Drop Needle must be followed.
2. If No Drop, Must be Untwist.
3. Padder Pressure(If Need)
4. M/c Speed.
5. Tension.
9 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 9 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
Slitter Machine:
Slitter machine is used for tubular knit fabric to make it in open form.
In open form fabric finishing line; slitter machine is used after hydro-
extractor, de-watering and drying machine.
Slitting is a process that is applied for cutting the tubular fabric
through the intended break Wales line on lengthwise direction prior
to stenter processing. During slitting, it is required to be aware about
the cutting line otherwise, fabric faults can be occurred there.
Objectives of Slitting:
Following objectives are achieved by the slitting machine.
1. To open tube fabric according to specific needle mark.
2. To prepare the fabric for next stentering process.
Function of the Slitting Machine:
1. Used to remove excess water after pretreatment and dyeing.
2. To slit the tube fabric by the knife for opening of the fabric and
ready for stentering.
3. Delivered fabric increase Free State.
4. Before squeezing balloon is formed with the help of
compressed air passing by a nozzle or air sprayer.
It can control the diameter of fabric and5. GSM and shrinkage
by over feeding mechanism.
Main Parts of Slitter Machine and their Functions:
Following are the main machine parts and their functions.
1. Rotary Blade: Rotary blade is used for cutting the fabric through
break Wales line.
2. Ring: Ring is use to help the cutting process.
3. Guide Roller: After slitting, plaiting of the fabric is done. Guide
roller guides the fabric to plaiting.
4. Plaiting: Open fabric is make plait by plaiting.
10 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 10 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
5. Sensor: Sensor is used for identify the specific Wales line. It
makes sense break Wales’s line.for cutting through
Checking Parameters Slitter:
Following parameters are checked after slitting.
1. Cutting Line Check: Fabric cutting line is checked by the
operator of the slitting machine. Operator checks that the
rotary blade cut fabric through break Wales’s line or not.
2. Bow and Slant check: Bow and slant is checked in the delivery
side of the machine by the operator.
3. Fabric Faults: Various fabric faults also checked in slitting
process.
Working Principle of Slitter Machine:
The slitting m/c has 4 units - initial squeezer, de-twisting, slitter and
padder. After dyeing completed and falling of water from fabric the
fabric is fed in slitting m/c. So it is necessary to remove some water
initially for the case of further processing in this m/c. The initial
squeezer does this work. The de-twisting unit removes twists that may
present in tubular rope form fabric. This unit has 3 de-twisting rollers,
one rotation drum and 2 feeler rollers with sensors. By these rollers it
detects twist in fabric and removes by rotating rope fabric in
opposite direction. Before slitting there is a blower which blows air to
open the tubular fabric & makes it easy to pass over cigger. The
cigger can be extended in circumference and opens the tubular
fabric in full circumference. Slitting is done by using open mark
detecting golden eye by around knife. Then the fabric passes
through the padder where washing or chemical treatment is done.
Squeezer is used to remove 60-70% of water. After removing water
width is controlled by stretcher and fabric is delivered by folding
device.
11 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 11 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
Operational Parameter:
1. Set the padder pressure as required (3-7bar)
2. Set the speed as much as possible (30-80m/min).
12 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 12 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
‡PK Ki‡Z n‡e:
1.is wmwjwUs, wb‡Wj Wªc Qvov KvUv n‡jv wK bv?
2.wµwiR gvK© Avm‡Q wK bv|
3.‡Kvb `vM Avm‡Q wK bv|
4.wcKvd cv‡m©‡›UR KZ?
5.KZ cv‡m©‡›UR m¤úmvwiZ nj|
13 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 13 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
Squeezer Machine: WvBs Kivi ci Kvco‡K Wvqvi mvBR wVK
Kiv Ges AwZwi³ cvwb AcmviY Kiv nq †hB wgwk‡bi mvnv‡q¨ Zvnvi bvg ¯‹zBRvi ev
wW-IqvUvwis †gwkb e‡j|
¯‹zBRvi ev wW-IqvUvwis †gwkb:
1. WvBs Gi c‡i Kvc‡oi AwZwi³ cvwb Acmvi‡bi R‡b¨
2. Kvc‡oi Wvqvi mvBR wVK Kiv
3. wRGmGg wVK ivLv
4. ms‡KvPb K‡›Uvj Kiv
5. mdUbvi e¨envi Kiv
6.UzBó K‡›Uvj Kiv
7. K¨vwg‡Kj wdwbwms Kiv
14 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 14 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
mZK©Zv:
1. Kvco‡K BwR cwRk‡b †gwk‡b cÖ‡ek Kiv‡Z n‡e, †Kvb cvK _vK‡Z cvi‡e bv,
2. Kvc‡oi ‡MÖ jvBb eivei ¯úvÛj ivL‡Z n‡e, hv‡Z †MÖ jvBb †mvRv _v‡K|
3. Kvc‡oi ‡Ubkb †ewk _vK‡Z cvi‡e bv| wms‡KR †ewk n‡e|
4. c¨vWvi ‡cÖmvi †ewk _vK‡j †mW jvBU n‡q hv‡e|
5. c¨vWv‡ii †cªmvi wWcv‡iÝ _vK‡Z cvi‡e bv, †mW Avb B‡eb n‡e|
6.c¨vWv‡ii wcKvd % 60 Gi Dc‡i n‡Z cvi‡e bv| Kvc‡o md&Ubvi wcK Ki‡e
bv| Kvco big n‡e bv|
7. c¨vWv‡ii nvW©b¨vm mgvb _vK‡Z n‡e me RvqMvq|
8. ¯úv‡Ûj / †md Gi `y-mvB‡Wi PvKvi BmwdW mgvb _vK‡Z n‡e|
15 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 15 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
Squeezer Machine (SOP)
Batch Card
1 Collect Batch Card
2 Dia Size & Adjust Spindle/ Shape
Required
1 Need m/c clean or not
2 M/c Tension ok or not
3 Water & Air Pressure available.
Manpower
1 Operation Area one person/Operator
2 Delivery side one person
Check
1 Check Crease, Dia size, any visible problem.
2 Elongation % or Shrinkage %
‡PK Ki‡Z n‡e:
1.Wvqvi mvBR wVK Av‡Q wK bv?
2.wµwiR gvK© Avm‡Q wK bv|
3.‡Kvb `vM Avm‡Q wK bv|
4.wcKvd cv‡m©‡›UR KZ?
5.KZ cv‡m©‡›UR m¤úmvwiZ nj|
16 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 16 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
¸iæZ¡c~Y© Ask we‡kl:
1. Spindle
2. Padder
3. Dancing Roller
4. Centering Devises
5. Auto Motion
6. Delivery side Relaxation system
7. J-Box devises
8. Auto twist adjustment
9. Water flow system
10. Air pressure devises
11. Chemical Auto level system
Adjustment.
1. Dia set.
2. Chemical Recipe.
3. Full Ballooning.
4. Padder Pressure.
5. Over Feed.
6. M/c Speed.
17 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 17 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
Hydro Extractor: Nybv©‡qvgvb c×wZ‡Z Gqvi mvKz©jv‡ii
gva¨‡g AwZwi³ cvwb AcmvwiZ Kivi †gwkb †K nvB‡Wªv G•Uvi e‡j|
nvB‡Wªv G•UUªi:
1. WvBs Gi c‡i AwZwi³ cvwb Gqvi mvKz©‡jmv‡ii gva¨‡g AcmvwiZ
K‡i|
2. Kvc‡o †Kvb †Ubkb c‡o bv|
3. Kvc‡oi wms‡KR K‡›Uvj fvj nq|
4. wRGmGg K‡›Uv‡j _v‡K|
5. UzBó K‡›Uv‡j _v‡K|
18 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 18 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
mZK©Zv:
1.Kvco‡K BwR cwRk‡b †gwk‡b cÖ‡ek Kiv‡Z n‡e, †Kvb cvK _vK‡Z cvi‡e
bv,
2.‡ewkÿY †gwkb Pvjv‡Z cvi‡e bv, Zv‡Z Kvc‡oi kw³ bó n‡Z cv‡i|
3.Kvco‡K †gwkb †_‡K evwni Ki‡Z, †Kvb †Ubkb co‡Z cvi‡e bv|
4.‡gwkb m¤ú~Y© iæ‡c eÜ bv n‡j †gwkb †_‡K Kvco evwni Kiv wec` RbK|
SOP (Hydro Extractor)
Batch Card
1 Collect Batch Card
2 Check information
Required
1 Need m/c clean or not
2 Electrical line Workable
3 Air Pressure available.
Manpower
1 Operation Area one person/Operator
2 Fabrics load/ unload one person
Check
1 Check Crease, any visible problem.
2 Full fabrics same conditions or not
19 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 19 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
¸iæZ¡c~Y© Ask we‡kl:
1. Gqvi †cÖmvi wVK Av‡Q wK bv?
2. ‡gwkb A‡Uv‡gwUK Av‡Q wK bv|
3. B‡jw±K jvBb
4. cy‡iv e¨v‡Pi Kvco GKB wm‡÷‡g Ki‡Z n‡e&
1. loading/ unloading devises
2.Auto Motion
3.Air Circulation
4. Air pressure
5.Time maintain automatic
Adjustment.
1. Timing (Fabrics type wise)
2. Pressure.
3. Speed (If Control).
4. Air Pressure
20 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 20 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
Stenter Machine
Objective of stenter-
A machine or apparatus for stretching or
stentering fabrics. The purpose of the stenter
machine is to bringing the length and width to
pre determine dimensions and also for heat
setting and it is used for applying finishing
chemicals and also shade variation is adjusted.
The main function of the stenter is to stretch the
fabric widthwise and to recover the uniform
width.
Function of stenter Machine-
1. Heat setting is done by the stenter for Lycra fabric,
synthetic and blended fabric.
2. Width of the fabric is controlled by the stenter.
3. Finishing chemical apply on fabric by the stenter.
4. Loop of the knit fabric is controlled.
5. Moisture of the fabric is controlled by the stenter.
6. Spirality controlled by the stenter.
7. GSM of the fabric is controlled by stenter.
8. Fabric is dried by the stentering process
9. Shrinkage property of the fabric is controlled.
10. Curing treatment for resin, water repellent fabric is
done by the stenter.
21 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 21 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
Specification of a Stenter Machine:
22 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 22 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
Working Procedure of Stenter Machine:
The fabric is collected from the batcher to the scary and then it is
passed through the padders where the finishes are applied and
sometimes shade variation is corrected. The fabric is entered into the
mahlo (weft straightener) the function of the mahlo is to set the bow
and also weave of the fabric is griped by the clips and pins are also
provided but the pins has a disadvantage that they pins make holes
at the selvedge but the stretching of the pins are greater than the
clips. These clips and pins are joined to endless chain. There are 5
chambers provided on the machine each chamber contains a
burner and filters are provided to separate dust from air. The
circulating fans blow air from the base to the upper side and exhaust
fans sucks all the hot air within the chambers. Attraction rollers are
provided to stretch the warp yarn.
After stentering we can increase the width of the fabric up to 1.5-2
inch. The speed of the machine is about 7-150 m/min.3 meters
fabric can run in each chamber. temperature is adjusted that
according to the fabric as for,
1. PC 210 c
2. Cotton 110-130 c
After dyeing 160-170c and after print 130-140c.
23 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 23 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
Technical Data of Stenter Machine:
24 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 24 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
Standard Operating Procedure
25 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 25 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
Standard Finishing Parameter
26 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 26 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
Adjustment.
1. Temperature-
2. Width set.
3. Blower Speed. / Charculation.
4. Chemical Recipe.
5. Padder Pressure.
6. M/c Speed.
7. Over feed.
8. Under feed.
9. Angle.
27 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 27 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
¸iæZ¡c~b© Kvh©¨vwa:
1. Kvco‡K ïKv‡bv,
2. Kvc‡oi mvBR wVK Kiv
3. wRGmGg wVK ivLv
4. ms‡KvPb ÿgZv ivk Kiv
5. UzBó ‡Kv›Uj Kiv
6.Av`ªZv †Kv›Uªj Kiv
7. wnU †mU Kiv, hvnv j¨vKiv Kvc‡oi w¯'wZ¯'vcKZv eRvq ivLv|
8. ‡fvBs †Kv›Uj Kiv
9. K¨vwg‡Kj e¨envi Kiv
mZ©KZv:
 AwZwi³ †U¤úv‡iPv‡ii Kvi‡b †mW bó n‡q †h‡Z cv‡i|
 wbwUs c¨vivwgUvi m¤ú©‡K AwÁZv bv _vK‡j, wRGmGg, mvBR Ges wms‡KR Gi mgm¨v
n‡Z cv‡i|
 Kvc‡oi MVb AbyhvB †gwkb †mU Avc wb‡Z n‡e|
 Kvc‡oi Kvjvi AbyhvB , †gwkb fvj fv‡e cwi®‹vi Ki‡Z n‡e|
 ‡gwkb cwi¯‹vi ivL‡Z n‡e, Zv bv n‡j Av¸b jvMvi m¤¢bv _v‡K|
 ‡KwgK¨vj e¨env‡i mgq, e¨envi wewa Rvbv _vK‡Z n‡e|
 ‡Kvb iKg †Ubkb _vK‡Z cvi‡e bv, BbcyU I AvDU cy‡Ui mgq|
28 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 28 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
gvnv‡jv (Mahlo)- Weft straighten: GKK fv‡e
‡Kvb KvR m~¤ú~b© Ki‡Z cv‡i bv, ÷ª›Uvi †gwk‡bi mv‡_ hy³ fv‡e
Kvc‡oi ¸bMZ cwieZ©b Avbqb K‡i|
Weft straightening and process control united:
The weft straightener Orthopac with integrated web distortion
detection forms the basis of the modular design. Additional
intelligent sensors can be connected to the control system via a bus
connection.
The following process parameters can be measured, visualized,
29 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 29 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
controlled and documented by means of special software
packages (Print Server).
 Weft thread or course skew / skew and bow rollers of the
straightener Orthopac RVMC
 High moisture / squeezing pressure
 Thread or course density / over-feed
 Exhaust air humidity / fan speed / flap opening
 Surface temperature / product web speed and dwell time
 Grammage / over-feed
 Residual moisture / product web speed
 Stretch and Shrinkage / over-feed
 Product width
The touchscreen of the system displays the measurements.
Individually modifiable displays of the measured values facilitate
easy monitoring of the complete process by the user.
Various software packages (FULL or BASE) allow adjusting
visualization and operating concept to different demands on
detectability and user convenience.
¸iæZ¡c~b©:
1.Kvc‡oi ¸‡bvMZ cwieZ©b Avbvi Rb¨
2.÷vBc †mvRv Kivi Rb¨
3.‡MÖ jvBb †mvRv Kivi Rb¨
mZK©Zv:
1.Kvc‡o †Ubkb n‡Z cv‡i
2.wms‡K‡Ri Dci cªfve co‡Z cv‡i
30 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 30 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
Dryer Machine (Wªvqvi †gwkb): mvavibZ wUDe Ges Kjvi Kvd
RvwZq Kvco Wªvqvi †gwk‡bi mvnv‡h¨ ïKv‡bv nq|
¸iæZ¡c~b©:
1.Kvco‡K ïKv‡bv
2.wms‡KR ‡Kv›Uªj Kiv
3.‡mW ‡Kv›Uªj Kiv
4.Av`ªZv ‡Kv›Uªj Kiv
5.wRGmGg ‡Kv›Uªj Kiv
31 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 31 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
mZ©KZv:
1. †ewk †U¤úv‡imv‡i †mW bó n‡q †h‡Z cv‡i|
2. ivwbs GWRvó Ki‡Z n‡e|
3. wdwUs Ges wewUs GWRvó Ki‡Z n‡e, Zv bv n‡j wms‡KR ‡Kv›Uªj n‡e
bv|
Adjustment.
1. Temperature- 120 Deg.
2. Overfeed – Maximum
3. Padder Pressure- 2.
4. Blower speed.
5. Cherculation.
6. Width set.
7. M/c Speed
32 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 32 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
33 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 33 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
SOP (Dryer Machine)
Batch Card
1 Collect Batch Card
2 Check information as customer
Required
1 Need m/c clean or not
2 Temp, Overfeed, U/F, Vetting, Speed
3 Air Pressure available.
Manpower
1 Operation Area one person/Operator
2 Fabrics load/ unload one person
Check
1 Check Crease, any visible problem.
2 Compaction %, GSM
Function of Dryer:
1. To dry the fabric with the help of blower and burner.
2. To control the shrinkage of the fabric.
3. To prepare the fabric for next subsequent process.
4. To dry fabric without tension.
5. To remove residual water containing in the fabric.
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Type of Dryer Machine:
1. Only Fabrics Dry
2. Width adjust & Chemical Devise
Type of Source
1. Gas Dryer
2. Thermo Heated
3. Steam Heated
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Open width Compactor :( Tube Tex C2500) Kvc‡oi gPwib
Avei‡bi Rb¨ Ges wms‡KR I wRGmGg †Kv›Uªj Kivi Rb¨|
Brief Description of the Machine.
The C-2500 Open Width Compactor is designed to mechanically
pre-shrink knitted fabrics. It provides shrinkage control to eliminate
excessive length shrinkage that may have been created in other
processes. Compacting is the mechanical compression of knitted
fabrics in the length direction to compensate for inherent (natural)
shrinkage caused by tension in the yarn. This tension is created
during the manufacture and processing of the fabric like the Knitting,
Dyeing, Printing and Brushing and or Sueding. The fabric are feed
thru the overhead entry equip with centering and metal detector
unit. The fabric lightly steamed before entering the C2500
compaction station to relax and add moisture to the fabric to aid in
the compaction process.
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The station consists of a feed roll, a retard roll and a shoe section. The
feed roll and shoe are heated to aid the process of compaction.
When the station is closed the point of contact between these three
component parts is known as the compacting zone. The speed of
the retard roll is variable in relation to the feed roll with the amount of
compaction imparted to the fabric being controlled by the
differential between these two rollers. Speeds and temperatures are
fully adjustable to allow the desired shrinkage results in the finished
fabric.
SIDE VIEW OF A TYPICAL C2500 CONFIGURATION.
CAUTION: To prevent damage to machine components, NEVER join fabric
ends with staples or plastic ties. Always sew the ends of each piece
together without overlaps.
 Ensure all doors on the machine are closed and latched.
 Never open machine doors when the machine is on.
 Ensure all guards are in place before starting equipment.
 Never remove guards while equipment is running.
 Follow all operating instructions.
 If it becomes necessary to work with fabric twists or to correct other running
problems, stop the machine first.
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NOTE: If you do not fully understand each of the safety notes above,
see your supervisor for clarification before you begin to operate the
machine.
FABRIC PATH THROUGH THE C2500
Adjustment.
1. Temperature.
2. Left Roll Pressure.
3. Right Roll Pressure.
4. Shoe Pressure.
5. Plaiter Ratio.
6. Conveyer Ratio.
7. Retard Roll Ratio.
8. Take out Roll Ratio.
9. Width control Ratio.
10. Guiding Roll Ratio.
11. M/c Speed.
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THE ENTRY
A web of Open width knit fabric is lifted by the driven Lifter or Center
Guiding Roll from the trolley. Tension is controlled by an adjustable
tension roller, the fabric then passes through a pair of driven,
variable pitch scroll rolls installed immediately prior to the center
guiding roll. After the center guiding roll the fabric passes through a
metal detection device and then under a dancer roll. The dancer
adjust and compensate the speed of the Lifter or center guiding roll
to control the fabric tension as it passes from the entry to the C2500.
THE STEAM SECTION
As the fabric strand passes over the steam box the fabric surface is
blown with steam. This application of steam helps to lubricate the
yarns of the knitted fabric by giving moisture, allowing the knit
courses to compact more easily. (As the principles applied that while
the fabric is wet easily the compaction can be easily achieved.
THE WIDTH CONTROL ROLL
The width control or bilateral slat roll controls the width of the fabric
by moving the slats on the surface of the roll in or out by
manipulating the position of the control cams located one at each
end of the roll. The positions of the cams are controlled by the photo
sensors that are seeking each of the two fabric selvedges. The
amount of width control available is varies on the type of fabric
being processed. The more slack the wider the width and the pull
position can reduce drastically the width.
THE FOLDER
From the compacting zone the fabric pass to the take-off roller and
pass to the conveyor, the fabric passes between plaiter rolls that
move back and forth and plaited in the adjustable (up and down)
stainless table.
THE COMPACTION SECTION
The station consists of a feed roll, a retard roll and a shoe section. The feed roll
and shoe are heated to aid the process of compaction. When the station is
closed the point of contact between these three component parts is known as
39 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 39 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
the compacting zone. The speed of the retard roll is variable in relation to the
feed roll with the amount of compaction imparted to the fabric being
controlled by the differential between these two rollers. Speeds and
temperatures are fully adjustable to allow the desired shrinkage
results in the finished fabric.
The Principle of Compaction
Before After
The stitch counts of the fabric before compaction (left diagram above) are
measured by counting the number of stitches per inch. The fabric is driven into
the compaction zone by the feed roll. The fabric is transported to the point of
the compaction zone where the shoe tip, feed roll and retard roll come into
contact, the resistance to the fabric motion that is applied by the slower running
speed of the retard roll allows the feed roll to push the stitches closer together
creating more stitches per inch (right diagram above). The difference between
the number of stitches entering the compactor by comparison to the number of
stitches exiting the compactor. This difference expressed as a percentage is the
amount of compaction that has been applied to the fabric.
FABRIC QUALITY
Fabric from the C2500 should have consistent compaction, an even
cross-line, and an even texture and appearance. Since compacting
is the last finishing process, it is sometimes necessary to compensate
for shortcomings in other processes up the line even as far back as
knitting. It is better, however, to correct these problems at their origin
rather than to try to make up for them in the compaction process.
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C2500 COMPACTOR MAIN OPERATOR CONTROLS
EMERGENCY STOP.
Disable all motion and process capabilities of the compactor. All emergency
stop pushbuttons on the C2500 Compactor latch when pressed and release if
pulled upwards.
E-STOP RESET.
Reset the emergency circuit after an emergency stop push button has been
operated. A green indicator is illuminated when the emergency stop circuit is
healthy.
MOTION STOP.
Disable all motion capabilities of START and JOG push buttons. All STOP push
buttons on the Delta Plus latch when pressed and release if pulled upwards.
START.
Enable the C2500 Compactor in a running condition, the C2500 Compactor
can only be started after all stop conditions are released.
JOG ALL.
Place the C2500 Compactor in a JOG condition at a jog speed of
approximately 15 YPM. The JOG Push-button is used primarily during threading.
The C2000 can only be jogged after all stop conditions are released.
HEAT SYSTEM OFF / ON.
Switch used to turn the feed roll and shoe heating system off and on. In the on
position the circulating pumps will start and the steam supply to the heat
exchanger will be enabled.
SHOE OPEN.
Illuminated pushbutton that, when pressed, opens the station. The light inside the
button comes on indicating the shoe is closed.
SPEED INDICATOR.
Indicate the compactor speed in yards per minute or meters per minute,
depending upon customer requirements.
RETARD ROLL DEC / INC.
INC - increases set point ratio of Retard Roll, which in turn increases speed of
retard roll motor
DEC - decreases set point ratio of retard roll, which in turn decreases speed of
retard roll motor.
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BATCHER DEC / INC.
INC - increases set point ratio of Batching Rolls, which in turn increases speed of
Batching Rolls motor DEC - decreases set point ratio of Batching Rolls, which in
turn decreases speed of Batching Rolls motor.
¸iæZ¡c~Y©:
1. A‡bK nvB †Kvqv‡jwci †gwkb
2. wms‡KR †Kv›Uª‡ji Rb¨ A‡bK ¸iæZ¡c~Y©, we‡kl K‡i wc‡K, ixe Ges g¨vm B›Uvi jK, jvKó Kvc‡oi Rb¨|
3. wRGmGg †Kv›Uªj A‡bK fvj nq
4. Av`ªZv †Kv›Uªj fvj nq|
mZK©Zv:
1. Acv‡iwUs Rvbv bv _vK‡j, Acv‡iwUs Kiv hv‡e bv|
2. GK GK K‡i me †mU Avc wVK K‡i, †gwkb ivb Ki‡Z n‡e, Zv bv n‡j weivU `~N©Ubv MV‡Z
cv‡i|
3. ‡mjvB Qvov †gwk‡b wMU w`‡q, Kvco ‡gwk‡b cÖ‡ek Kiv‡bv hv‡e bv|
4. ‡gwkb wU A‡bK `vwg Ges cÖwZwU cvm© I `vwg, evsjv‡`‡k mn‡R cvIqv hv‡e bv| Gi e¨envi
I GKUz †ewZµwg|
5. Kvc‡o Afvi K‡¤úKkb n‡Z cv‡i|
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Batch Card
1 Collect Batch Card
2 Shade Light/ Dark
Required
1 Adjust Parameter
2 M/c Tension ok or not
3 Air Pressure available.
Manpower
1 Operation Area one person/Operator
2 Input side one & side one person
Check
1 Check Shade & GSM, Width
2 Compaction % Allowable)
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Open width Compactor: (Lafer Felt System) Kvc‡oi gPwib
Avei‡bi Rb¨ Ges wms‡KR I wRGmGg †Kv›Uªj Kivi Rb¨|
¸iæZ¡c~Y©:
1. eøvs‡KU wmUv‡gi Kvi‡Y Kvco LyeB gmwib nq| eøvs‡KU
2. e¨env‡i †Zgb †Kvb SzwK _v‡K bv|
3. Kvc‡oi mvBR wVK ivLv hvq|
4. Acv‡iwUs wmmUvg LyeB mnR|
5. wms‡KR ‡Kv›Uªj fvj nq|
mZK©Zv:
1. ‡mjvB Qvov †gwk‡b wMU w`‡q, Kvco ‡gwk‡b cÖ‡ek Kiv‡j, †Ucjb bó n‡q hv‡e|
2. Kvc‡o Afvi K‡¤úKkb n‡Z cv‡i|
3. mvBR Kg †ewk n‡Z cv‡i|
44 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 44 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
Adjustment.
1. Temperature.
2. Left side pinning
3. Right side pinning
4. Blanket Pressure.
5. Over feed %
6. Under feed %
7. Width Adjust
8. Out steam ratio
9. M/c Speed.
Open width Compactor (SOP)
Batch Card
1 Collect Batch Card
2 Shade Light/ Dark
Required
1 Need Clean or not
2 Adjust Parameter
3 Air Pressure & Steam available.
Manpower
1 Operation Area one person/Operator
2 Input side one & side one person
Check
1 Check Shade & GSM, Width
2 Compaction % Allowable)
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Open Width Compactor:
Open compactor is used for compacting the open form fabric.
Here, slitting machine is used for open the fabric from the tubular
form.
Feature of Open Width Compactor:
Perfect sanforising finishing of knit fabrics.
1. Ideally suitable for in-line with stenter machines.
2. Effective shrinkage control
3. A.C. Inverter drives, PLC with touch screen used.
4. Equipped with modem connectivity and online troubleshooting system.
5. Metal detector.
Working Procedure of Open Width Compactor:
Open Width Compactor is suitable for open width knit fabrics to achieve exact
dimensional stability and a soft feel. The machine generally consists of a
feeding frame with centering device and driven scroll rollers, an equalizing
stenter frame with over feed roller and brush pinning arrangement.
The entry section of Pin Frame is provided with edge spreaders IR In-Feed
device, an S.S. fabricated steaming unit for uniform moistening of the fabric.
The Steaming Device has stainless steel sliding shutters that allow steam to
flow only as per the width of the fabric.
A low contact Glueing and Drying unit is provided with a stainless steel trough.
Four selvedge drying units with infra-Red emitters are placed on either side of
the machine. The delivery side section consists of edge dryer, Selvedge
trimmer and a suction device, Exit roller, Width Adjustment device and the
drive to the chain are housed in a exit box.
The compacting unit consists of 2 felt compacting units, each of them
consisting of a Nomex felt approx. 20 mm thick, a steam heated chrome-plated
center roller of dia. 400 mm, a rubber covered roller driven by variable
46 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
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frequency drive, a compacting pressure roller, a felt tensioning roller and a felt
centering roller. Each unit is provided with a special anti-fiction sheet type
shoe controlled by an electrical actuator to control the compressive shrinkage.
A fabric cooling roller is provided after second felt to cool the fabric by means
of chilled water circulation. Fabric Tension through the machine is controlled
with the help of sensitive load cells and variable frequency drive with PLC and
touch screen.
Specification of Open Width Compactor Machine:
Brand name Lafer SPA
Model no. Comptex /Fv200
Manufacturing country Italy
Speed range 13-22 m/min
Temperature 110-140C
Used utilities Electricity, Compress air, Steam
Production capacity 4 ton/day
Maximum width 86”
Minimum width 36”
Applied for Open width
Application or Uses of Compactor Machine in Textile
Industry:
Compactor machine has done a lot of technical works, which are
mentioned in the below:
1. It controls the shrinkage of fabric.
2. Fabric GSM can be controlled by using compactor machine. In
case of high GSM, overfeed of compactor machine is
47 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
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increased; as a result, fabric width is decreased. In case of low
, overfeed of compactor machine is decreased; as aGSM
result, fabric width is increased.
3. It improves the opacity of the fabric.
4. It has a significant contribution in twisting control.
5. Smoothness of fabrics will be increased by using this machine.
6. It imports different degree of luster to the fabric.
7. It compresses the fabric and reduces the thickness.
8. It helps to control proper fabric width.
9. It upgrades the fabric hand feel and import a silky touch to the
fabric.
10. Heat setting in has done by using this machine.fabric
11. It also reduces the yarn slippage.
Technical Data of Open Width Compactor:
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Tube Compactor: wUDe Kvco †K mvBR AbyhvB gmwib Ges
w¯’wZ¯’vcKZv ÿZvi Rb¨ cÖwµqv MZ fv‡e wdwbms Kiv n‡q _v‡K|
¸iæZ¡c~Y©:
1. evs‡KU wmUv‡gi Kvi‡Y Kvco LyeB gmwib nq|
2.e¨env‡i †Zgb †Kvb SzwK _v‡K bv|
3.wUDe Kvc‡oi mvBR ‡Kv›Uª‡j ivLv hvq|
4.Acv‡iwUs wmmUvg LyeB mnR|
5.wms‡KR ‡Kv›Uªj fvj nq|
49 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 49 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
mZK©Zv:
1.‡mjvB Qvov †gwk‡b wMU w`‡q, Kvco ‡gwk‡b cÖ‡ek Kiv‡j, †Ucjb
bó n‡q hv‡e|
2.Kvc‡o Afvi K‡¤úKkb n‡Z cv‡i|
3.mvBR Kg †ewk n‡Z cv‡i|
4.‡Ucv‡iPvi †ewk n‡j †mW bó n‡q †h‡Z cv‡i|
Adjustment.
1. Temperature.
2. Left side & Right side wheel same speed
3. Blanket Pressure.
4. Over feed %
5. Under feed %
6. Width Adjust
7. Out steam ratio
8. M/c Speed.
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Tubular Compactor:
Tubular compactor is used after hydro-extractor, de-watering and dryer. By the
compactor machine, compacting is done for control the shrinkage of the fabric.
Here, different types of off line quality of the fabric are measured.
Functions of Tubular Compactor:
Following objectives are achieved by the tubular compactor. They are-
1. Shrinkage of the fabric is controlled by the compactor.
2. Fabric width is controlled by the compactor.
3. GSM of the fabric is adjusted by the compacting.
4. Fabric smoothness is achieved by the compactor.
5. Heat setting of fabric for Lycra is done by tubular compactor.
Working Procedure of Tubular Compactor:
The treatment of knit fabrics in tubular form on the Tubular compactor meets the
exacting standards set by customers so that garment stitched from the fabric
finished on this machine will yield the lowest residual shrinkage values.
1. Width control through a stepless adjustable special tubular fabric spreader
driven by variable speed motor for distortion-free fabric guidance.
2. Steaming with a condensate-free steam box which is easily operated and
completely made from stainless stell.
3. Compacting through two Nomex felt belts.
4. Calendaring while passing between the felt belt and the heated shrinking
rollers.
5. Precision plaiting with automatic platform level adjustment controlled by
folded fabric height. Alternatively, a fabric rolling system can be provided.
The fabric is fed through the guiding system and stretcher which then takes the
fabric through the steam box onto the felt of the twin compacting units.
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At the fabric delivery, the machine is equipped with a precision plaiting device
with its platform. The height of the platform is controlled automatically and is
adjustable according to the plaited fabric height.
An optical fabric density measuring sensor can provide the means to
automatically control the compaction of a tubular compactor to achieve the
desired course count. An automatic compaction control system based on density
measurement and control will:
 Eliminate over- and under-weight fabric.
 Reduce or eliminate punch-weight measurements.
 Provide consistent results from all operators.
 Result in uniform fabric, seam-to-seam.
 Yield predictable residual shrinkage.
Specification of Tubular Compactor Machine:
Brand name Ferraro
Model no. Comptex/Fv200
Manufacturing country Italy
Speed range 13-22 m/min
Temperature 110-140C
Used utilities Electricity, Compress air,Steam
Production capacity 4 ton/day
Maximum width 86”
Minimum width 36”
Applied for Open width
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Tube Compactor Machine (SOP)
Batch Card
1 Collect Batch Card
2 Shade Light/ Dark
Required
1 Need Clean or not
2 Adjust Parameter
3 Air Pressure & Steam available.
Manpower
1 Operation Area one person/Operator
2 Delivery side 1 & Packing 1 person
Check
1 Check Shade & GSM, Width
2 Compaction % Allowable)
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Brushing/ Rising Machine: Kvco Gi GK mvB‡Wi dvBevi ¸‡jv‡K
KvD›Uvi dvB‡ji mvnv‡h¨ Zz‡j gmwib Kiv nq, hvnv g¨vKvwb‡Kj wdwbwms Gi
gva¨‡g ZzjZz‡j K‡i KvswLZ j‡ÿ †cŠ‡Q|
¸iæZ¡c~Y©:
1.Kvco Gi GK mvB‡Wi dvBevi ¸‡jv‡K KvD›Uvi dvB‡ji mvnv‡h¨ Zz‡j
gmwib Kiv nq, hvnv ZzjZz‡j K‡i KvswLZ j‡ÿ †cŠ‡Q|
2.wdwjm Kvc‡o GB cÖwµq Kiv nq
3.Kvc‡oi ¸bvMb e„w× Kiv nq|
54 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 54 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
Adjustment:-
1. Pile.
2. Counter Pile.
3. Brush (Drum) Speed.
4. Fabrics Tension.
5. M/c Speed.
mZK©Zv:
1. Kvc‡oi I‡q IqvBR eªvku Ki‡Z n‡e, bv n‡j eªvku n‡e bv|
2.dvBj Ges KvD›Uvi dvBj Gi g¨vP wVK bv n‡j eªvku n‡e bv|
3.Kvco ùU n‡Z n‡e, Zv bv n‡j eªvku n‡e bv|
4. †mW Gi mgm¨v nIqvi m¤¢vebv †ewk _v‡K|
5.GbRvBg †ewk n‡j eªv‡ku m¯§mv n‡e|
Raising or Napping
A finishing process that raises the surface fibers of a fabric by means of passage
over rapidly revolving cylinders covered with metal points or teasel burrs. Outing,
flannel, and wool broadcloth derive their downy appearance from this finishing
process. Napping is also used for certain knit goods, blankets, and other fabrics
with a raised surface.
The raising process is a very old technique known also to Romans (as pictured in
some paintings found in Pompeii). This operation is particularly suitable for wool
and cotton fabrics; it gives a fuzzy surface by abrading the cloth and pulling the
fibre end to the surface. During those last years this process has also been
applied on polyester/viscose blends and acrylic fabrics.
By means of this process a hairy surface can be given to both face and back of
the cloth providing several modifications of the fabric appearance, softer and
fuller hand and bulk increase. This enhances the resistance of the textile material
to atmospheric agents, by improving thermal insulation and warmth provided
by the insulating air cells in the nap. The fuzzy surface is created by pulling the
fibre end out of the yarns by means of metal needles provided with hooks
shelled into the rollers that scrape the fabric surface. The ends of the needles
55 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
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protruding from the rollers are 45°-hooks; their thickness and length can vary and
they are fitted in a special rubber belt spiral-wound on the raising rollers. These
rollers are generally alternated with a roller with hooks directed toward the
fabric feed direction (pile roller), and a roller with the hooks fitted in the opposite
direction (counterpile roller).
Raising rollers
The machine also includes some rotating brushes, which suction-clean the nibs
in pile and counterpile directions. Actually the trend goes towards a ratio of
raising rollers/pile rollers equal or 1/3. The two series of rollers have independent
motion and can rotate with different speed and direction thus carrying out
different effects.
Raising (napping) machine
1. Roller;
2. Rollers equipped with hooks;
3. Fabric;
4. Nib cleaning brushes;
5. fabric tension adjustment
The action of these systems is almost powerful and the results depend upon the
effects and the type of fabric desired . The raising effect can be obtained by
adjusting the fabric tension (5) or by adjusting the speed and the roller rotation
direction (2).
Once a certain limit has been exceeded, the excessive mechanical stress could
damage the fabric: it is therefore better, when carrying out a powerful raising, to
pass the wet fabric through the raising machine many times (dry when
processing cotton fabrics) and treat the fabrics in advance with softening-
lubricating agents.
Raising the face of the fabric
The pile extraction is easier when carried out on single fibers: it is therefore
suitable to reduce the friction between the fibers by wetting the material or, in
case of cellulose fibers, by previously steaming the fabric. For the same reasons,
it is better to use slightly twisted yarns.
The same machine allows different options of independent motions:
56 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
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1. Fabric moving between entry and exit
2. Motion of large drum
3. Motion of raising rollers
The raising intensity can be adjusted by suitably combining the above
mentioned independent motions, the tension of the textile material, the number
of .pile wise. or Counterpile. Raising rollers and their relative speed. It is possible
to obtain .combed pile. Raising effect, "semi-felting" effect with fibres pulled out
and re-entered in the fabric, and complete felting effect.
The raising machine is equipped with two overlapping drums each one
featuring 24 rollers, which can process two faces or face and back of the same
fabric. The drums assembled on a standard machine can rotate separately one
from the other in the fabric feeding direction or in the opposite direction by
carrying out a counter rotation. In this model all the functions are carefully
monitored and controlled by a computer system; in particular all the commands
are driven by alternating power motors controlled by "Sensorless" vector
inverters.
The control electric system features:
1). PLC programmable controller for machine and alarms automation;
2). Touch screen to program and update all processing parameters;
3). Operating conditions of each single raising process (up to one million.
recipes") that can be stored to facilitate the batch reproduction.
Furthermore, a series of special pressure rollers can be assembled on the feeding
cylinders to prevent the fabric from sliding, thus granting an extremely smooth
raising. The raising process ability lies merely in raising the desired quantity of
fibre ends without excessively reducing the fabric resistance. For this reason, the
technique applying the alternated use of pile and counterpile rollers is the most
widely used since it minimizes the loss of fibres from the fabric and the
consequent resistance reduction.
Standard raising machines have been designed to work with fabrics powerfully
tensioned essentially because they are not equipped with an efficient and
reliable tension control.
This gives rise to the effects detailed below:
57 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
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1) The contact surface between the fabric and the raising cylinders is quite
small;
2) The hook nibs work only superficially on the fabric and the raising effect is
quite reduced;
3) The fabric width is drastically reduced.
The above mentioned inconveniences have now been eliminated thanks to the
last generation of raising machines, which reduce the number of passages and
carry out the raising process by gently tensioning the fabric.
Brushing Machine (SOP)
Batch Card
1 Collect Batch Card
2 Shade Light/ Dark
Required
1 Standard Quality
2 Adjust Parameter
3 Air Pressure available.
Manpower
1 Operation Area one person/Operator
2 Fabrics Preparing one
Check
1 Check Shade & Any line Mark/Hole
2 Elongation % Allowable
58 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 58 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
Peach Finish / Sueding Machine: Kvco †K ùU Kivi Rb¨
cøvmwU‡Ki eªvkvu Gi mvnv‡h¨ Nl©‡bi gva¨‡g g¨vKvwb‡Kj c×wZi mvnv‡h¨ wdwbwms Kiv
n‡q _v‡K|
¸iæZ¡c~Y©:
1.Kvc‡o Dc‡ii mvB‡Wi dvBevi ¸‡jv‡K cøvmwU‡Kj eªv‡kui mvnv‡h¨ gmwib Kivi
g¨vKvwb‡Kj wdwbwms c×wZ e¨envi Kiv nq|
2. me ai‡bi Kvc‡o GB cÖwµq Kiv nq, hvnv‡K g¨vKvwb‡Kj wdwbwms ejv n‡q _v‡K|
3. Kvc‡oi ¸bvMb e„w× Kiv nq|
mZK©Zv:
1. Kvc‡oi I‡q IqvBR eªvku Ki‡Z n‡e, bv n‡j md&U n‡e bv|
2. dvBj Gi g¨vP wVK bv n‡j Kvco m n‡e bv|
59 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 59 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
3. Kvco ùU n‡Z n‡e, Zv bv n‡j eªvku n‡e bv|
4. GbRvBg †ewk n‡j mdU Gi m¯§mv n‡e|
5. Gqvi †cÖmvi wVK _vK‡Z n‡e|
6. †mW Gi mgm¨v nIqvi m¤¢vebv †ewk _v‡K|
7. Kvc‡oi †Ubkb †ewk n‡j, wP`ª n‡q hv‡e|
Adjustment.
1. Taken in Roller Tension.
2. Drum Tension.
3. Fabrics Return Roller Tension.
4. Plaiter Roller Tension.
5. Drum Speed.
6. M/c Speed.
60 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 60 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
Peach Finish Machine:
Peach finish machine is the process where the peach fabric
becomes smoother. By this process especially for twill fabric the
diagonal line become lowered with the application of microsand
paper or carbon wire brushing. In Auto TL there is one peach finish
machine. The machine description is given below.
Peach Finish Machine Specification
 M/C Name: Lafer (SPA)
 Drum speed: 90 m/min
 No of r/r: 24 (Positive- 12, Negative- 12)
 Speed: 20m/min (light peach)
 Belt Pressure: 2.6 bar
 Drum Pressure: 9 bar
Types of Peach Finish
There are 3 types of peach finish
 Light
 Medium
 Heavy
Objective of Peach Finish
 Wide range of brushing effects which can be replicated
through time.
 Completely defect-free fabric processing.
 Flexible drawing-in in the various right-back side combinations.
 High production speed.
Brushing unit of Peach Finish Machine:
It contain 2 to 6 roller according to design. For microsand brushing
each roller contains 24 rollers which move forward & backward with
the same speed of containing roller. In carbon wire type machine all
the roller contain carbon wire which performed brushing. The entire
61 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 61 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
roller can control individually. Here belt pressure is 2.6 bar & drum
pressure is 9 bar, which depend on quality of fabric.
Fabric outlet & batching: After that the fabric become smooth this is
rolled on batcher for washing.
Control Panel of Peach Finish Machine: From control panel all types
of instruction can be provide to the machinery. This machine has a
full manual control panel. The operator controls every process by
control switch.
Open width Sueding Machine (SOP)
Batch Card
1 Collect Batch Card
2 Shade Light/ Dark
Required
1 Standard Quality
2 Adjust Parameter
3 Air Pressure available.
Manpower
1 Operation Area one person/Operator
2 Fabrics Preparing one
Check
1 Check Shade & Line Mark/Hole
2 Elongation % Allowable)
62 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 62 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
Ultra soft/ Peach Finish (Tube Fabrics)- wUDe Kvco
myBwWs Kivi g¨vKvwb‡Kj wdwbwms †gwkb|
¸iæZ¡c~Y©:
1. wUDe Kvco g¨vKvwb‡Kj c×wZi gva¨‡g myBwWs / AvëvmdU Kiv nq|
2. Kvco wi‡R± nIqvi m¤¢vebv Kg _v‡K|
3. Kvc‡oi ¸bvMb e„w× Kiv nq|
mZK©Zv:
1. Kvc‡oi I‡q IqvBR eªvku Ki‡Z n‡e, bv n‡j md&U n‡e bv|
2. dvBj Ges KvD›Uvi dvBj Gi g¨vP wVK bv n‡j Kvco m n‡e bv|
3. Kvco ùU n‡Z n‡e, Zv bv n‡j eªvku n‡e bv|
4. GbRvBg †ewk n‡j mdU Gi m¯§mv n‡e|
5. Gqvi †cÖmvi wVK _vK‡Z n‡e|
6. †mW Gi mgm¨v nIqvi m¤¢vebv †ewk _v‡K|
63 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 63 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
Adjustment.
1. Taken in Roller Tension.
2. Drum Tension.
3. Fabrics Return Roller Tension.
4. Plaiter Roller Tension.
5. Drum Speed.
6. Air pressure
7. M/c Speed
Tube Sueding Machine (SOP)
Batch Card
1 Collect Batch Card
2 Shade Light/ Dark
Required
1 Standard Quality
2 Adjust Parameter
3 Air Pressure & Steam available.
Manpower
1 Operation Area one person/Operator
2 Delivery side 1 & Packing 1 person
Check
1 Check Shade & GSM, Width
2 Compaction % Allowable)
64 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 64 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
Emerizing Machine (BgvivBwRs wdwbwms)- g¨vKvwb‡Kj
wdwbwms Gi gva¨‡g wKQ' Nbv©qgvb †ivjv‡ii wmwiR KvM‡Ri b¨vq wKQz
`v‡Zveq c`v‡_©i Nl©‡bi Øviv Kvc‡oi gmwibZv m„wó K‡i|
¸iæZ¡c~Y©:
1. wKQ' Nbv©qgvb †ivjv‡ii wmwiR KvM‡Ri b¨vq wKQz `v‡Zveq c`v‡_©i Nl©‡bi
Øviv Kvc‡oi gmwibZv m„wó K‡i|
2. nvjKv nvjKv dvBev‡ †K Nl©‡bi mvnv‡h¨ Zz‡j Kvco‡K mdU K‡i †`q|
3. `ÿ Acv‡iU‡ii Øviv eªvku †gwkb w`‡qI GgvivBwRs wdwbwms Kiv m¤¢ve|
65 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 65 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
mZK©Zv:
1. †Ubkb †ewk n‡j, Kvco wQ‡o †h‡Z cv‡i, Ges wQ`ª n‡q †h‡Z cv‡i|
2. ‡mW cwieZ©b Ki‡Z cv‡i|
3. Kvco ùU n‡Z n‡e, Zv bv n‡j eªvku n‡e bv|
Adjustment.
1. Taken in Roller Tension.
2. Drum Tension.
3. Fabrics Return Roller Tension.
4. Plaiter Roller Tension.
5. Drum Speed.
6. Air pressure
7. M/c Speed
66 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 66 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
Emerizing Machine (SOP)
Batch Card
1 Collect Batch Card
2 Shade Light/ Dark
Required
1 Standard Quality
2 Adjust Parameter
3 Air Pressure & Steam available.
Manpower
1 Operation Area one person/Operator
2 Delivery side 1 & Packing 1 person
Check
1 Check Shade & GSM, Width
2 Compaction % Allowable)
67 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 67 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
Combing Machine (Kw¤¢s †gwkb) - eªvku Kiv Kvco‡K †kqvwis
Kivi c~‡e© Avku M~‡jv‡K wPiwbi g‡Zv AvPwi‡q †kqvwis G KvUvi Dc‡hvMx K‡i †Zvjvi
Rb¨ g¨vKvwb‡Kj wdwbwms Gi gva¨‡g cÖwµqv m¤ú~b© Kiv|
¸iæZ¡c~b©:
1. eªvku Kiv Kvco‡K †kqvwis Kivi c~‡e© Avku M~‡jv‡K wPiwbi g‡Zv AvPwi‡q
†kqvwis G KvUvi Dc‡hvMx K‡i †Zvjv nq|
2. KvD›Uvi dvBj Gi gva¨‡g Avku ¸‡jv‡K Lvov Lvov K‡i ‡`Iqv nq|
3. A‡Uv‡gwUK cwRk‡b ivL‡Z n‡e, †Zgb †jvK bv n‡jI P‡j, †kqvwis †gwk‡bi
†jvK w`‡q Acv‡iU gwbUwis Kiv hv‡e|
68 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 68 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
mZK©Zv:
1.‡Lqvj ivL‡Z n‡e, †hb †Kvb dvBevi Kgwes Qvov bv _v‡K, Zvn‡j †kqvwis G
KvUv hv‡e bv|
2. ‡kqvwis Gi cÖ‡qvRb Abyhvqx Kgwes Ki‡Z n‡e, Zv bv n‡j Kgwes Gi
cÖ‡qvRbxqZv bó n‡q hv‡e|
69 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 69 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
Combing Machine (SOP)
Batch Card
1 Collect Batch Card
2 Check Brush Position
Required
1 Check Shearing Standard
2 Auto Adjustment
3 Air Pressure available.
Manpower
1
If Shearing Machine running, So
Shearing operator can operate,
2 no need Extra person
Check
1 Check Combing position
2 Not Keep more time combing position
Adjustment:-
1. Counter Pile/ Only Pile
2. Brush (Drum) Speed.
3. Fabrics Tension.
4. M/c Speed.
70 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 70 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
Sharing Machine (‡kqvwis ‡gwkb): eªvkvu Kivi c‡i, dvBevi
¸‡jv‡K mgvb Kivi Rb¨ †K‡U †µZvi Pvwn`v Abyhvqx K‡i †Zvjv|
¸iæZ¡c~b©:
1. †kqvwis †gwkb GKwU AZ¨vawbK wdwbwms cª‡mwms †gwkb, hvnv Kvc‡oi ¸bvMyb e„w× K‡i|
2. Kvc‡oi Dcwi fv‡Mi AwZwi³ Avku ev dvBevi ¸‡jv‡K †K‡U _yeB gmwib K‡i †`q|
3. AZ¨vawbK ‡Kvqv‡jwU m¤ú~Y© Kvco ‰Zwi‡Z GB †gwkb LyeB ¸iæZ¡c~b©
4. K¤¢j ˆZix‡Z LyeB ¸iæZ¡c~b©
71 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 71 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
mZK©Zv:
1. LyeB `vwg †gwkb,
2. cwiPvjbvq mZK©Zv Aejgeb Ki‡Z nq, Zv bv n‡j `yNVbv NUvi m¤¢ebv †ewk _v‡K|
3. LyeB `ÿ Acv‡iU‡ii `iKvi nq|
4. Kvco KvUv hvevi m¤¢vebv †ewk _v‡K|
5. Gqvi †cÖmvi wVK _vK‡Z n‡e, Zv bv n‡j †Kvqv‡jwU fvj n‡e bv|
Adjustment:-
1. Taker in Tension.
2. Lower Tension.
3. Blade Distance.
4. Table Distance.
5. Cutter RPM.
6. Plater Tension.
7. Machine RPM
72 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 72 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
Check after Process.
1. Cutting.
2. Uneven Cutting.
3. Side to Side Variation.
4. Line Mark.
73 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 73 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
Sharing Machine (SOP)
Batch Card
1 Collect Batch Card
2 Check Brush Position
Required
1 Check Shearing Standard
2 Auto Adjustment
3 Air Pressure available.
Manpower
1 One Experience Person
2 Back 1 & Font side 1 person
Check
1 Cutting %
2 Line/ Uneven Cutting
74 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 74 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
Singing Machine (‡mbwRs †gwkb): Kvc‡oi Dcwi fv‡Mi
Avku ¸‡jv‡K Av¸‡bi mvnv‡h¨ cy‡o †djv‡bv‡K †mbwRs e‡j|
¸iæZ¡c~b©:
1. we‡kl K‡i cwj÷vi Ges KUb wg• dvBevi Gi Kvc‡o wmbwRs K‡i _v‡K|
2. cÖ‡mm jP Kg n‡e
3. BbRvBg Kiv jvM‡e bv,ZvB WvBs UvBg Kg jvM‡e|
4. Kvco wi‡RKkb Kg nq, WvBs UvBg Kg jv‡M Ges BbRvBg Kiv jv‡M e‡j|
5.Kvc‡Mi ÷¨vš' †ewk _v‡K|
75 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 75 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
Singeing
The verb ‘singe’ literally means ‘to burn superficially’. Technically,
singeing refers to the burning-off of. Loose fibers not firmly bound into
the yarn and/or fabric structure. Singeing is an important part of
pretreatment. This is the burning off of protruding fiber ends from the
surface of the fabric. If not done properly, unclear print patterns,
mottled fabric surfaces, and pilling results.
 Loose yarns not firmly bound into the fabric structure;
 Protruding fiber ends sticking out of the textile yarns and/or
fabrics.
Textiles materials are most commonly singed in woven or knitted
fabric form or in yarn form.
Singeing
Objectives & Advantages of Singeing
 Singeing of a fabric is done in order to obtain a clean fabric
surface which allows the structure of the fabric to be clearly
seen.
 Fabrics, which have been singed, soil less easily than un-singed
fabrics.
 The risk of pilling, especially with synthetics and their blends, is
reduced in case of singed fabrics.
 Singed fabrics allow printing of fine intricate patterns with high
clarity and detail.
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Page 76 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
 The risk of skittery dyeing with singed articles dyed in dark
shades is considerably reduced, as randomly protruding fibres
are removed in singeing which could cause diffused reflection
of light.
Necessity of Singeing in Textile
Singeing of textile materials is necessary for te following reasons:
 Cotton materials are valued for their smooth appearance.
After the formation of fabric it has a fuzzy or hairy appearance
due to projecting fibers, thus affecting the luster and
smoothness cotton is known for.
 Unsigned fabrics are soiled easily
 The protruding fibers obstruct the subsequent dyeing and
printing process
 Goods which are to be mercerized are signed to maximize the
luster
 In fabrics of polyester and cellulosic fiber blends singeing is the
best method to control pilling, sometimes double singeing is
done to minimize the pilling.
Singeing Process
Singeing process is as follows:
 To produce a smooth surface finish on fabrics made from staple
fibers first the fabric surfaces are brushed lightly to raise the
unwanted fiber ends.
 Then the fabric is singed with or passed over heated copper
plates or open gas flames. The fiber ends burn off.
 The fabric is moved very rapidly, and only the fiber ends are
destroyed.
 As soon as the fabric leaves the singeing area, it enters a water
bath or desizing bath. This stops any singeing afterglow or
sparks that might damage the cloth.
77 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 77 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
Precaution During Singeing
Some of the precautions to be taken in considerations during
singeing:-
1. The fabric to be singed should be dry as wet fabric tend to
scorch more readily than dry.
2. Uneven singeing may cause streaks on fabric or bubbles when
the fabric is finished.
3. Improper singeing may lead to loss of 75 % loss in tensile
strength loss in warp direction.
4. The fabric should not contain any acid releasing salt,which may
release acid on heating and tender the fabric.
5. Stopping the machines may cause bars on the fabrics.
6. Singeing may cause hardening of the size thus leading to
difficulty in its removal.
7. Possibility of thermal damage to temperature sensitive fabrics.
8. The burning characteristics of fibers must be taken into account
when this process is applied, as heat-sensitive fibers melt,
forming tiny balls on the surface of the fabric. These balls
interfere with dye absorption, so that, as a general rule, heat
sensitive fibers would be singed after dyeing or printing.
78 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 78 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
Machine name : Singeing machine.
Manufacture : OSTHOFF-seng GmbH and company.
Origin : Germany. Heating
source : Direct gas heating system.
Temperature : 120-130C.
Speed :
For single jersey cotton: 50-60m/min (burner position -02)
For 100% viscose: 65-75 m/min (burner position -02)
For Lycra single jersey: 90/95 m/min (burner position -01)
Flame :
(10-12) bar for single jersey.
(18-20) bar for single jersey.
(16-18) bar for viscose Lycra
79 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 79 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
Singing Machine (SOP)
Batch Card
1 Collect Batch Card
2 Check Combination
Required
1 Customer Requirement
2 Auto Adjustment
3 Air Pressure & Gas pressure available.
Manpower
1
One person Experience
2 One person Asst Knowledgeable
Check
1 Check Hairiness
2 Any Flame position
80 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 80 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
mZK©Zv:
1. Av¸b jvM‡Z cv‡i Kvc‡o, cvwbi ‡¯úª w`‡q ivL‡Z n‡e|
2. ‡gwkb w¯úW A‡bK †ewk ZvB Acv‡iUi LyeB mZK© _vK‡Z n‡e|
3. mnKvix Acv‡iUi I mZK© _vK‡Z n‡e KviY †Kvb Kvi‡Y Acv‡iUi
Ag‡bvRMx n‡Z cv‡i|
4. M¨vm PvwjZ ZvB †gwkb eÜ nIqvi mv‡_ mv‡_ Av¸b †j‡M †h‡Z
cv‡i|
81 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 81 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
Tumble dryer (Uªv¤¢j Wvqvi): Uªv¤¢j Wªvqvi we‡kl K‡i Mv‡g©m WªvB Gi
Kv‡R e¨envi Kiv n‡q _v‡K| Kvc‡oi †ÿ‡Î hLb wRGmGg Ges wms‡KR Lvivc _v‡K
ZLb wVK Kivi †ÿ‡Î Uªv¤¢j Wvqvi e¨envi Kiv n‡q _v‡K|
¸iæZ¡c~Y©:
1.Iqvwms cÖ‡mm G Mv‡g©m ïKv‡bvi Rb¨ e¨envi Kiv n‡q _v‡K|
2.Mv‡g©m Gi wms‡KR wVK ivLvi Rb¨ e¨envi Kiv n‡q _v‡K|
3.wRGmGg Kg n‡j, fvov‡bvi Rb¨
4. wms‡KR †ewk n‡j
5.gvB‡µv dvBevi Kvco Gw›U wcwjs Kivi Rb¨
82 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 82 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
mZK©Zv:
1.Afvi WªvB n‡q, †mW †PBR n‡q †h‡Z cv‡i|
2.Mv‡g©R Gi g¨vRvi‡g›U cwieZ©b n‡q †h‡Z cv‡i|
3.Kvco n‡j, AvbB‡fb n‡q †h‡Z cv‡i|
4. Kvc‡oi wRGmGg Gi cwieZ©b Avm‡Z cv‡i wgUvi U' wgUv‡i|
5.Bwó‡gi `vM Avm‡Z cv‡i|
Adjustment-
1. Temperature
2. Steam
3. Timing
4. Cooling
83 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 83 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
Tumble Dryer (SOP)
Batch Card
1 Collect Batch Card
2 Check Combination
Required
1 Customer Requirement
2 Auto Adjustment
3 Steam pressure available.
Manpower
1 One person Experience
2 Two person for packet
Check
1 Any spot & Measurement
2 GSM & Compaction %
84 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 84 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
Bag Sewing Machine (e¨vM myBs †gwkb) - j¨vKiv Kvco wnU †mU Kivi
c‡i, WvBs Kivi Rb¨ AveviI Kvco‡K wUDe Kivi Rb¨ GB †gwkb e¨envi Kiv n‡q
_v‡K, hv‡Z AvbB‡fb bv Avm‡Z cv‡i|
¸iæZ¡c~Y©:
1.e¨vM myBs Gi d‡j, Kvc‡o AvbB‡eb Av‡m bv|
2.wµwiR gvK© Av‡m bv
mZK©Zv:
1.fvj Acv‡iUi bv n‡j, †mj‡fR G †ewk myBs n‡q †h‡Z cv‡i|
2.mgvb fv‡e †mjvB bv n‡j, wµwiR gvK© Ges AvbB‡fb Avm‡Z cv‡i|
85 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 85 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
Adjustment-
1. Sewing measurement
2. Air Pressure
3. Speed
4. Sewing tension
86 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 86 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
Tumble Dryer (SOP)
Batch Card
1 Collect Batch Card
2 How many dia
Required
1 Air pressure
2 Auto Adjustment
3 Speed
Manpower
1 One person Experience
2 one person for fabrics collect
Check
1 Sewing evenness
2 In ½ inch need sewing
87 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 87 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
Standard Operating System
1. Collect Batch Card/ Process card
2. Follow Customer Standard/ Requirement
3. Quality Standard (Company)
4. Check Fabrication
5. Required GSM & Width
6. Confirm Shade which was unload from dyeing
7. Confirm test result avoid reprocess
8. Any Special finish required, Peach/ Brush/ Print
9. Check last batch/ Sample finish parameter
10. Check last batch/ Sample physical test result
11. Follow Company quality standard, Shrinkage &
GSM tolerance
12. Hand feel & Hairiness tolerance
13. Follow next process like compactor or print
14. Communicate with Quality control department
88 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 88 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
Fabrics Finishing Procedure
1. Set up all necessary setting, temperature, width, over
feed, under feed, Padder pressure, blower speed,
Adjust fan, Moisture %, Cooling fan.
2. Shade & GSM check near of joint avoid the fabrics
rejection
3. Every Joint must be straight sewing avoid the crease
or Elephant Skin. Rejection
4. Without sewing/ don’t use knotted avoid the padder/
Teflon damage, also rejection
5. Softener use as customer standard
6. Silicon or Hydrophilic softener which is requirement
7. Padder Pick up %
8. Temperature requirement as shade wise
9. In selvage pin within ½ inch
10. Width 1 inch plus/ Minus
11. Within 2/3 rolls shade confirm from quality
12. Within 5 rolls adjust width, GSM & Shade, if not
possible to adjust remove from process
13. Hairiness/ Hand feel confirm from Quality department
14. Rib or any accessories separate finish
89 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 89 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
Heat-setting is a heat treatment by which shape retention,
crease resistance, resilience and elasticity are imparted to
the fibers. It also brings changes in strength, stretch ability,
softness, dye ability and sometimes on the color of the
material. All these changes are connected with the structural
and chemical modifications occurring in the fiber.
This operation is crucial for fabrics made of synthetic fibers
(PE, PA, elastomers), for triacetate, and partly for PAC fibers
(setting), since it grants excellent dimensional stabilization
and crease proof properties, maintained till the fabric is
exposed (by air blowing) to temperatures exceeding the heat
setting one (after being treated with water at a temperature
above the second order glass transition temperature, i.e. 80-
85°C for acrylics).
Heat setting is carried out on gray fabrics (scarcely applied),
on scoured fabrics (frequently applied) and on dyed fabrics
(scarcely applied). The process grants excellent dimensional
stability and good crease-proof properties. As far as
operating conditions are concerned, the fabric must be
treated in accurately controlled moisture and temperature
conditions.
90 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 90 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
1. Heat setting is a heat treatment by which shape retention,
Crease resistance, resilience and elasticity are imparted to the fibers.
2. Change in strength, stretch ability, softness , dye ability and
Sometimes in color.
3. Changes occur due to structural and chemical modification of
fibers.
Stages of Heat setting
Heat setting can be carried out at three different stages:
1. In grey condition
2. After scouring
3. After dyeing
Heat setting at grey stage
1.If heat setting is carried out in loom state, mineral
oils and non-ionic emulsifiers can modify the fiber.
2.2. Structure and rubbing and perspiration fastness
may be reduced due to the solubility of disperse dye
in the coning oil.
3.3. However, grey heat setting is useful in warp
knitting industry as in that material carry less
amount of lubricants.
4.4. Yellow color due to heat setting can be removed by
bleaching.
5.5. Fabric is less sensitive to crease formation in next
processes.
91 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 91 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
Heat setting after scouring
Heat setting is done after scouring if it is suspected that:
1. Goods will shrink.
2. Cloth has developed stretch or other properties
after scouring.
Heat setting after dyeing
These fabric shows considerable resistance to stripping
Compared with dyeing on unset fabric.
Disadvantage of this are:
1. Yellow color developed cannot be removed.
2. Handle of cloth may get altered.
3. Risk of color to get fade.
Effect of heat setting on various of synthetic fibers
1. Structural changes
2. Dimensional stability
3. Stiffness
4. Crease recovery
5. Dye ability
92 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 92 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
HEAT SET PROCEDURE
1. Knitting Machine wise Batch Prepare.
2. Dyeing Machine wise Batch Prepare.
3. In Batch Card should be write M/c Dia, Gauge, Stitch Length,
Yarn count & Required GSM.
4. Sewing time follow Needle line
5. Slitting time need to be carefully follow slitting line.
6. Grey GSM & Width check also compare with standard.
7. Stenter M/c parameter set as a Standard parameter sheet.
8. Width, Temperature & Speed Fixed If needed then adjust only
overfeed.
9. Follow Color wise After heat set GSM
10. After Heat set keep record Roll to roll & within roll GSM.
11. Color wise identify & some rolls need to be write then not
mix-up with another Color.
93 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 93 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
Lycra Grey Fabrics Relaxation Procedure
Knitting
1. After knitting should be Relax stage not Roll stage
2. Maximum 24 Hours.
Store
1. Not More the 24 hours
2. Within 24 hours hand over to Batch Section
Batch Section 1. Batch Knitting M/c wise & Dyeing M/c Capacity wise
2. Within 2 hours Handover to Slitting.
Slitting
1. Within one trolley Maximum 500 KG Keep.
2. After slitting Need 4 hours keeping.
Stenter 1. Check Grey GSM & Width.
2. After stenter Relax minimum 2 Hours
94 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 94 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
95 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 95 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
96 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 96 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
97 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 97 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
Mechanical Finish
a. Brushing Process/ Napping/ Raising
b. Peach Finish
c. Emerizing finish
d. Micro Polar Finish
e.Singing Finish
f. Shearing/ Creping
g.Calendaring
h.Sanforizing
i. Beetling
j. Embossing
Chemical Finishing:
A. Anti-Crease treatment
B. Creping
C. Fire Proofing
D. Shrink Resistant
E. UV Protective Finish.
F. Wick Finish
G. Mothproofing
H. Oil Repellant
I. Water Repellant
98 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 98 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
1. Teflon Finish (Water Replant).
Lurotex Tx2504 = 60. g/l.
Perapret Booster XLR = 10. g/l.
Acetic Acid = 0.5 g/l.
pH (Check) - 4.5
Process - Dry Finish.
Temperature- 110, 120, 130, 170, 170, 170, 170.
Blower Speed-1800.
Speed- 18 m/m.
Note: Don’t use any kinds of Softener before Teflon Finish.
2. Resin Finish.
Stabitex ETR = 40 g/l
Condensol FAM = 12 g/l.
Acetic Acide = 0.25 g/l.
pH Check - 4.5
Process Dry Finish.
Temperature- 150
Speed -15
Overfeed- 30%
99 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 99 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
3. UV Protective Finish.
Diyopol KUV = 40 g/l.
Perapret FPEB = 20 g/l.
Temperature- 140.
Speed – 20.
Overfeed – 50%,
Note: Don’t use any kinds of Softener before UV Protective Finish & Dry Finish.
4. Wick Finish.
Cefasoft SHB – 40 g/l.
Temperature- 150.
Speed – 18.
Overfeed- 50%.
Note: Don’t use any kind of Softener.
5. Polyester Finish.
Hydroperm SRHA. TH – 20 g/l.
Acetic Acid – 0.25 g/l.
pH Check – 4.5
Temperature – 180 (Dark Color)
Speed – 20.
Overfeed – 30%
Note: Wet Finish. Not dry Finish.
100 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 100 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
6. Polyester Finish.
Cefasoft SHD – 30 g/l.
Sanitized T25-25-10 g/l.
Acetic Acid - 0.5 g/l.
pH Check – 4.5
Temperature- 180. (Dark Color)
Speed – 20.
Overfeed- 20 %
Note: Wet Finish. Not dry Finish.
Reporting System:
1. Floor Statues
2. Production Report with Achieving Percentage
3. Machine down time
4. Reprocessing report
5. Shrinkage report
6. Rout causes analysis repost
7. Keeping Customer Quality Swatch
8. Every Machine’s need specific details
9. Machine Wise Standard Operation Procedure
10. Buyer & Fabrication wise setting parameter
11. Operator to Manager need Job
responsibility
101 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g
Page 101 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
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Fabrics finishing machine's working procedure

  • 1. 1 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 1 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd AGM (Quality & Product Development) B Sc in Textile Engineering (ADUST) Cell: +880 1708 454 779 Email: mizan5379@gmail.com Skype: mizan_mehben
  • 2. 2 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 2 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd 1. Finishing Machines introduce 2. Standard Operating System 3. Fabrics Finishing Procedure 4. Heat Set Procedure 5. Mechanical Finish 6. Chemical Finish 7. Reporting System
  • 3. 3 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 3 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd Finishing Process Flow Chart: Delivery to Garments Tube Compact. Peach Finish Brush Finish Stenter De-Watering Slitting. Dryer(Tube/collar) Stenter Dyeing Open Width Compact Inspection Finish Fabrics Store Combing Sharing
  • 4. 4 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 4 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd Finishing Department Head Job Responsibility: 1. Planning & Monitoring of Production Target. 2. Ensure that the Quality Standard is being met by Forecasting & reviewing the result. 3. Develop Discipline, by implementing the Rules &Regulation in Department. 4. Ensure acceptable Quality level (AQL) in textile manner. 5. Give a continuous guidance to the Executive, along with others for target fabric specification. 6. Supervision constantly to Grey & Final QC. 7. Give the full support the Research & Development Department. 8. Make a continuous study of work improvement & give report to the higher authority. 9. Response & act in the customer complain & query. 10. Ensure that all safety followed by the team. 11. Continuously study the Cost saving of the Department. 12. Enthusiastic to wastage utilization. 13. Optimize Manpower Utilization. 14. Worker Turnover & Absenteeism control as per Plan. 15. Skill Development in the Floor. 16. Ensure that all Lab test Report (Physical) are recorded. 17. Follow the concept of Top Management. 18. Regularly held a meeting to all people once in a week/ Time to time. 19. Co-ordination with all departments all quality parameter inform time to time all department. 20. Check the hold fabric & give decision quickly.
  • 5. 5 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 5 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd 1. Finishing Machines introduce  Slitting Machine  Squeezer Machine  Hydro Exeter  Stenter Machine  Dryer Machine  Open width Compactor  Tubular Compactor  Brushing Machine  Sueding Machine  Emerizing Machine  Combing Machine  Sharing Machine  Tumble dryer  Singing Machine  Bag Sewing Machine
  • 6. 6 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 6 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd Slitting Machine: ‡hB †gwk‡bi mvnv‡h¨ wUDe Kvco‡K †K‡U I‡cb Kiv nq, Zvnv‡K wmwjwUs †gwkb e‡j| wmwjwUs †gwkb: 1.wUDe Kvco †K I‡cb Kiv nq| 2.c¨vWv‡i mvnv‡h¨ Kvc‡oi cvwb AcmviY Kiv nq| 3.UzBó K›Uªj Kiv|
  • 7. 7 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 7 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd mZK©Zv: 1.wj‡Wj Wªc eivei KvwUs Ki‡Z n‡e| 2.wj‡Wj Wªc bv _vK‡j UzBó wi‡gvf K‡i wmwjwUs Ki‡Z n‡e, Zv bv n‡j Kvc‡oi UzBó †ewk n‡e| 3.Kvc‡oi ‡Ubkb †ewk _vK‡Z cvi‡e bv| wms‡KR †ewk n‡e| 4.c¨vWvi ‡cÖmvi †ewk _vK‡j †mW jvBU n‡q hv‡e| 5.c¨vWv‡ii †cªmvi wWcv‡iÝ _vK‡Z cvi‡e bv, †mW Avb B‡eb n‡e| 6. c¨vWv‡ii wcKvd % 60 Gi Dc‡i n‡Z cvi‡e bv| Kvc‡o md&Ubvi wcK Ki‡e bv| Kvco big n‡e bv| 7.c¨vWv‡ii nvW©b¨vm mgvb _vK‡Z n‡e me RvqMvq| ¸iæZ¡c~Y© Ask we‡kl: 1. Cutter 2. Padder 3. Dancing Roller 4. Centering Devises 5. Auto Motion Cutter 6. Delivery side Relaxation system 7. J-Box devises 8. Auto twist adjustment 9. Water flow system 10. Air pressure devises
  • 8. 8 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 8 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd SOP (Standard Operating Procedure) Adjustment. 1. Drop Needle must be followed. 2. If No Drop, Must be Untwist. 3. Padder Pressure(If Need) 4. M/c Speed. 5. Tension.
  • 9. 9 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 9 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd Slitter Machine: Slitter machine is used for tubular knit fabric to make it in open form. In open form fabric finishing line; slitter machine is used after hydro- extractor, de-watering and drying machine. Slitting is a process that is applied for cutting the tubular fabric through the intended break Wales line on lengthwise direction prior to stenter processing. During slitting, it is required to be aware about the cutting line otherwise, fabric faults can be occurred there. Objectives of Slitting: Following objectives are achieved by the slitting machine. 1. To open tube fabric according to specific needle mark. 2. To prepare the fabric for next stentering process. Function of the Slitting Machine: 1. Used to remove excess water after pretreatment and dyeing. 2. To slit the tube fabric by the knife for opening of the fabric and ready for stentering. 3. Delivered fabric increase Free State. 4. Before squeezing balloon is formed with the help of compressed air passing by a nozzle or air sprayer. It can control the diameter of fabric and5. GSM and shrinkage by over feeding mechanism. Main Parts of Slitter Machine and their Functions: Following are the main machine parts and their functions. 1. Rotary Blade: Rotary blade is used for cutting the fabric through break Wales line. 2. Ring: Ring is use to help the cutting process. 3. Guide Roller: After slitting, plaiting of the fabric is done. Guide roller guides the fabric to plaiting. 4. Plaiting: Open fabric is make plait by plaiting.
  • 10. 10 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 10 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd 5. Sensor: Sensor is used for identify the specific Wales line. It makes sense break Wales’s line.for cutting through Checking Parameters Slitter: Following parameters are checked after slitting. 1. Cutting Line Check: Fabric cutting line is checked by the operator of the slitting machine. Operator checks that the rotary blade cut fabric through break Wales’s line or not. 2. Bow and Slant check: Bow and slant is checked in the delivery side of the machine by the operator. 3. Fabric Faults: Various fabric faults also checked in slitting process. Working Principle of Slitter Machine: The slitting m/c has 4 units - initial squeezer, de-twisting, slitter and padder. After dyeing completed and falling of water from fabric the fabric is fed in slitting m/c. So it is necessary to remove some water initially for the case of further processing in this m/c. The initial squeezer does this work. The de-twisting unit removes twists that may present in tubular rope form fabric. This unit has 3 de-twisting rollers, one rotation drum and 2 feeler rollers with sensors. By these rollers it detects twist in fabric and removes by rotating rope fabric in opposite direction. Before slitting there is a blower which blows air to open the tubular fabric & makes it easy to pass over cigger. The cigger can be extended in circumference and opens the tubular fabric in full circumference. Slitting is done by using open mark detecting golden eye by around knife. Then the fabric passes through the padder where washing or chemical treatment is done. Squeezer is used to remove 60-70% of water. After removing water width is controlled by stretcher and fabric is delivered by folding device.
  • 11. 11 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 11 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd Operational Parameter: 1. Set the padder pressure as required (3-7bar) 2. Set the speed as much as possible (30-80m/min).
  • 12. 12 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 12 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd ‡PK Ki‡Z n‡e: 1.is wmwjwUs, wb‡Wj Wªc Qvov KvUv n‡jv wK bv? 2.wµwiR gvK© Avm‡Q wK bv| 3.‡Kvb `vM Avm‡Q wK bv| 4.wcKvd cv‡m©‡›UR KZ? 5.KZ cv‡m©‡›UR m¤úmvwiZ nj|
  • 13. 13 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 13 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd Squeezer Machine: WvBs Kivi ci Kvco‡K Wvqvi mvBR wVK Kiv Ges AwZwi³ cvwb AcmviY Kiv nq †hB wgwk‡bi mvnv‡q¨ Zvnvi bvg ¯‹zBRvi ev wW-IqvUvwis †gwkb e‡j| ¯‹zBRvi ev wW-IqvUvwis †gwkb: 1. WvBs Gi c‡i Kvc‡oi AwZwi³ cvwb Acmvi‡bi R‡b¨ 2. Kvc‡oi Wvqvi mvBR wVK Kiv 3. wRGmGg wVK ivLv 4. ms‡KvPb K‡›Uvj Kiv 5. mdUbvi e¨envi Kiv 6.UzBó K‡›Uvj Kiv 7. K¨vwg‡Kj wdwbwms Kiv
  • 14. 14 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 14 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd mZK©Zv: 1. Kvco‡K BwR cwRk‡b †gwk‡b cÖ‡ek Kiv‡Z n‡e, †Kvb cvK _vK‡Z cvi‡e bv, 2. Kvc‡oi ‡MÖ jvBb eivei ¯úvÛj ivL‡Z n‡e, hv‡Z †MÖ jvBb †mvRv _v‡K| 3. Kvc‡oi ‡Ubkb †ewk _vK‡Z cvi‡e bv| wms‡KR †ewk n‡e| 4. c¨vWvi ‡cÖmvi †ewk _vK‡j †mW jvBU n‡q hv‡e| 5. c¨vWv‡ii †cªmvi wWcv‡iÝ _vK‡Z cvi‡e bv, †mW Avb B‡eb n‡e| 6.c¨vWv‡ii wcKvd % 60 Gi Dc‡i n‡Z cvi‡e bv| Kvc‡o md&Ubvi wcK Ki‡e bv| Kvco big n‡e bv| 7. c¨vWv‡ii nvW©b¨vm mgvb _vK‡Z n‡e me RvqMvq| 8. ¯úv‡Ûj / †md Gi `y-mvB‡Wi PvKvi BmwdW mgvb _vK‡Z n‡e|
  • 15. 15 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 15 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd Squeezer Machine (SOP) Batch Card 1 Collect Batch Card 2 Dia Size & Adjust Spindle/ Shape Required 1 Need m/c clean or not 2 M/c Tension ok or not 3 Water & Air Pressure available. Manpower 1 Operation Area one person/Operator 2 Delivery side one person Check 1 Check Crease, Dia size, any visible problem. 2 Elongation % or Shrinkage % ‡PK Ki‡Z n‡e: 1.Wvqvi mvBR wVK Av‡Q wK bv? 2.wµwiR gvK© Avm‡Q wK bv| 3.‡Kvb `vM Avm‡Q wK bv| 4.wcKvd cv‡m©‡›UR KZ? 5.KZ cv‡m©‡›UR m¤úmvwiZ nj|
  • 16. 16 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 16 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd ¸iæZ¡c~Y© Ask we‡kl: 1. Spindle 2. Padder 3. Dancing Roller 4. Centering Devises 5. Auto Motion 6. Delivery side Relaxation system 7. J-Box devises 8. Auto twist adjustment 9. Water flow system 10. Air pressure devises 11. Chemical Auto level system Adjustment. 1. Dia set. 2. Chemical Recipe. 3. Full Ballooning. 4. Padder Pressure. 5. Over Feed. 6. M/c Speed.
  • 17. 17 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 17 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd Hydro Extractor: Nybv©‡qvgvb c×wZ‡Z Gqvi mvKz©jv‡ii gva¨‡g AwZwi³ cvwb AcmvwiZ Kivi †gwkb †K nvB‡Wªv G•Uvi e‡j| nvB‡Wªv G•UUªi: 1. WvBs Gi c‡i AwZwi³ cvwb Gqvi mvKz©‡jmv‡ii gva¨‡g AcmvwiZ K‡i| 2. Kvc‡o †Kvb †Ubkb c‡o bv| 3. Kvc‡oi wms‡KR K‡›Uvj fvj nq| 4. wRGmGg K‡›Uv‡j _v‡K| 5. UzBó K‡›Uv‡j _v‡K|
  • 18. 18 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 18 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd mZK©Zv: 1.Kvco‡K BwR cwRk‡b †gwk‡b cÖ‡ek Kiv‡Z n‡e, †Kvb cvK _vK‡Z cvi‡e bv, 2.‡ewkÿY †gwkb Pvjv‡Z cvi‡e bv, Zv‡Z Kvc‡oi kw³ bó n‡Z cv‡i| 3.Kvco‡K †gwkb †_‡K evwni Ki‡Z, †Kvb †Ubkb co‡Z cvi‡e bv| 4.‡gwkb m¤ú~Y© iæ‡c eÜ bv n‡j †gwkb †_‡K Kvco evwni Kiv wec` RbK| SOP (Hydro Extractor) Batch Card 1 Collect Batch Card 2 Check information Required 1 Need m/c clean or not 2 Electrical line Workable 3 Air Pressure available. Manpower 1 Operation Area one person/Operator 2 Fabrics load/ unload one person Check 1 Check Crease, any visible problem. 2 Full fabrics same conditions or not
  • 19. 19 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 19 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd ¸iæZ¡c~Y© Ask we‡kl: 1. Gqvi †cÖmvi wVK Av‡Q wK bv? 2. ‡gwkb A‡Uv‡gwUK Av‡Q wK bv| 3. B‡jw±K jvBb 4. cy‡iv e¨v‡Pi Kvco GKB wm‡÷‡g Ki‡Z n‡e& 1. loading/ unloading devises 2.Auto Motion 3.Air Circulation 4. Air pressure 5.Time maintain automatic Adjustment. 1. Timing (Fabrics type wise) 2. Pressure. 3. Speed (If Control). 4. Air Pressure
  • 20. 20 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 20 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd Stenter Machine Objective of stenter- A machine or apparatus for stretching or stentering fabrics. The purpose of the stenter machine is to bringing the length and width to pre determine dimensions and also for heat setting and it is used for applying finishing chemicals and also shade variation is adjusted. The main function of the stenter is to stretch the fabric widthwise and to recover the uniform width. Function of stenter Machine- 1. Heat setting is done by the stenter for Lycra fabric, synthetic and blended fabric. 2. Width of the fabric is controlled by the stenter. 3. Finishing chemical apply on fabric by the stenter. 4. Loop of the knit fabric is controlled. 5. Moisture of the fabric is controlled by the stenter. 6. Spirality controlled by the stenter. 7. GSM of the fabric is controlled by stenter. 8. Fabric is dried by the stentering process 9. Shrinkage property of the fabric is controlled. 10. Curing treatment for resin, water repellent fabric is done by the stenter.
  • 21. 21 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 21 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd Specification of a Stenter Machine:
  • 22. 22 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 22 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd Working Procedure of Stenter Machine: The fabric is collected from the batcher to the scary and then it is passed through the padders where the finishes are applied and sometimes shade variation is corrected. The fabric is entered into the mahlo (weft straightener) the function of the mahlo is to set the bow and also weave of the fabric is griped by the clips and pins are also provided but the pins has a disadvantage that they pins make holes at the selvedge but the stretching of the pins are greater than the clips. These clips and pins are joined to endless chain. There are 5 chambers provided on the machine each chamber contains a burner and filters are provided to separate dust from air. The circulating fans blow air from the base to the upper side and exhaust fans sucks all the hot air within the chambers. Attraction rollers are provided to stretch the warp yarn. After stentering we can increase the width of the fabric up to 1.5-2 inch. The speed of the machine is about 7-150 m/min.3 meters fabric can run in each chamber. temperature is adjusted that according to the fabric as for, 1. PC 210 c 2. Cotton 110-130 c After dyeing 160-170c and after print 130-140c.
  • 23. 23 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 23 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd Technical Data of Stenter Machine:
  • 24. 24 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 24 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd Standard Operating Procedure
  • 25. 25 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 25 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd Standard Finishing Parameter
  • 26. 26 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 26 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd Adjustment. 1. Temperature- 2. Width set. 3. Blower Speed. / Charculation. 4. Chemical Recipe. 5. Padder Pressure. 6. M/c Speed. 7. Over feed. 8. Under feed. 9. Angle.
  • 27. 27 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 27 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd ¸iæZ¡c~b© Kvh©¨vwa: 1. Kvco‡K ïKv‡bv, 2. Kvc‡oi mvBR wVK Kiv 3. wRGmGg wVK ivLv 4. ms‡KvPb ÿgZv ivk Kiv 5. UzBó ‡Kv›Uj Kiv 6.Av`ªZv †Kv›Uªj Kiv 7. wnU †mU Kiv, hvnv j¨vKiv Kvc‡oi w¯'wZ¯'vcKZv eRvq ivLv| 8. ‡fvBs †Kv›Uj Kiv 9. K¨vwg‡Kj e¨envi Kiv mZ©KZv:  AwZwi³ †U¤úv‡iPv‡ii Kvi‡b †mW bó n‡q †h‡Z cv‡i|  wbwUs c¨vivwgUvi m¤ú©‡K AwÁZv bv _vK‡j, wRGmGg, mvBR Ges wms‡KR Gi mgm¨v n‡Z cv‡i|  Kvc‡oi MVb AbyhvB †gwkb †mU Avc wb‡Z n‡e|  Kvc‡oi Kvjvi AbyhvB , †gwkb fvj fv‡e cwi®‹vi Ki‡Z n‡e|  ‡gwkb cwi¯‹vi ivL‡Z n‡e, Zv bv n‡j Av¸b jvMvi m¤¢bv _v‡K|  ‡KwgK¨vj e¨env‡i mgq, e¨envi wewa Rvbv _vK‡Z n‡e|  ‡Kvb iKg †Ubkb _vK‡Z cvi‡e bv, BbcyU I AvDU cy‡Ui mgq|
  • 28. 28 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 28 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd gvnv‡jv (Mahlo)- Weft straighten: GKK fv‡e ‡Kvb KvR m~¤ú~b© Ki‡Z cv‡i bv, ÷ª›Uvi †gwk‡bi mv‡_ hy³ fv‡e Kvc‡oi ¸bMZ cwieZ©b Avbqb K‡i| Weft straightening and process control united: The weft straightener Orthopac with integrated web distortion detection forms the basis of the modular design. Additional intelligent sensors can be connected to the control system via a bus connection. The following process parameters can be measured, visualized,
  • 29. 29 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 29 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd controlled and documented by means of special software packages (Print Server).  Weft thread or course skew / skew and bow rollers of the straightener Orthopac RVMC  High moisture / squeezing pressure  Thread or course density / over-feed  Exhaust air humidity / fan speed / flap opening  Surface temperature / product web speed and dwell time  Grammage / over-feed  Residual moisture / product web speed  Stretch and Shrinkage / over-feed  Product width The touchscreen of the system displays the measurements. Individually modifiable displays of the measured values facilitate easy monitoring of the complete process by the user. Various software packages (FULL or BASE) allow adjusting visualization and operating concept to different demands on detectability and user convenience. ¸iæZ¡c~b©: 1.Kvc‡oi ¸‡bvMZ cwieZ©b Avbvi Rb¨ 2.÷vBc †mvRv Kivi Rb¨ 3.‡MÖ jvBb †mvRv Kivi Rb¨ mZK©Zv: 1.Kvc‡o †Ubkb n‡Z cv‡i 2.wms‡K‡Ri Dci cªfve co‡Z cv‡i
  • 30. 30 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 30 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd Dryer Machine (Wªvqvi †gwkb): mvavibZ wUDe Ges Kjvi Kvd RvwZq Kvco Wªvqvi †gwk‡bi mvnv‡h¨ ïKv‡bv nq| ¸iæZ¡c~b©: 1.Kvco‡K ïKv‡bv 2.wms‡KR ‡Kv›Uªj Kiv 3.‡mW ‡Kv›Uªj Kiv 4.Av`ªZv ‡Kv›Uªj Kiv 5.wRGmGg ‡Kv›Uªj Kiv
  • 31. 31 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 31 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd mZ©KZv: 1. †ewk †U¤úv‡imv‡i †mW bó n‡q †h‡Z cv‡i| 2. ivwbs GWRvó Ki‡Z n‡e| 3. wdwUs Ges wewUs GWRvó Ki‡Z n‡e, Zv bv n‡j wms‡KR ‡Kv›Uªj n‡e bv| Adjustment. 1. Temperature- 120 Deg. 2. Overfeed – Maximum 3. Padder Pressure- 2. 4. Blower speed. 5. Cherculation. 6. Width set. 7. M/c Speed
  • 32. 32 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 32 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd
  • 33. 33 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 33 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd SOP (Dryer Machine) Batch Card 1 Collect Batch Card 2 Check information as customer Required 1 Need m/c clean or not 2 Temp, Overfeed, U/F, Vetting, Speed 3 Air Pressure available. Manpower 1 Operation Area one person/Operator 2 Fabrics load/ unload one person Check 1 Check Crease, any visible problem. 2 Compaction %, GSM Function of Dryer: 1. To dry the fabric with the help of blower and burner. 2. To control the shrinkage of the fabric. 3. To prepare the fabric for next subsequent process. 4. To dry fabric without tension. 5. To remove residual water containing in the fabric.
  • 34. 34 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 34 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd Type of Dryer Machine: 1. Only Fabrics Dry 2. Width adjust & Chemical Devise Type of Source 1. Gas Dryer 2. Thermo Heated 3. Steam Heated
  • 35. 35 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 35 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd Open width Compactor :( Tube Tex C2500) Kvc‡oi gPwib Avei‡bi Rb¨ Ges wms‡KR I wRGmGg †Kv›Uªj Kivi Rb¨| Brief Description of the Machine. The C-2500 Open Width Compactor is designed to mechanically pre-shrink knitted fabrics. It provides shrinkage control to eliminate excessive length shrinkage that may have been created in other processes. Compacting is the mechanical compression of knitted fabrics in the length direction to compensate for inherent (natural) shrinkage caused by tension in the yarn. This tension is created during the manufacture and processing of the fabric like the Knitting, Dyeing, Printing and Brushing and or Sueding. The fabric are feed thru the overhead entry equip with centering and metal detector unit. The fabric lightly steamed before entering the C2500 compaction station to relax and add moisture to the fabric to aid in the compaction process.
  • 36. 36 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 36 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd The station consists of a feed roll, a retard roll and a shoe section. The feed roll and shoe are heated to aid the process of compaction. When the station is closed the point of contact between these three component parts is known as the compacting zone. The speed of the retard roll is variable in relation to the feed roll with the amount of compaction imparted to the fabric being controlled by the differential between these two rollers. Speeds and temperatures are fully adjustable to allow the desired shrinkage results in the finished fabric. SIDE VIEW OF A TYPICAL C2500 CONFIGURATION. CAUTION: To prevent damage to machine components, NEVER join fabric ends with staples or plastic ties. Always sew the ends of each piece together without overlaps.  Ensure all doors on the machine are closed and latched.  Never open machine doors when the machine is on.  Ensure all guards are in place before starting equipment.  Never remove guards while equipment is running.  Follow all operating instructions.  If it becomes necessary to work with fabric twists or to correct other running problems, stop the machine first.
  • 37. 37 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 37 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd NOTE: If you do not fully understand each of the safety notes above, see your supervisor for clarification before you begin to operate the machine. FABRIC PATH THROUGH THE C2500 Adjustment. 1. Temperature. 2. Left Roll Pressure. 3. Right Roll Pressure. 4. Shoe Pressure. 5. Plaiter Ratio. 6. Conveyer Ratio. 7. Retard Roll Ratio. 8. Take out Roll Ratio. 9. Width control Ratio. 10. Guiding Roll Ratio. 11. M/c Speed.
  • 38. 38 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 38 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd THE ENTRY A web of Open width knit fabric is lifted by the driven Lifter or Center Guiding Roll from the trolley. Tension is controlled by an adjustable tension roller, the fabric then passes through a pair of driven, variable pitch scroll rolls installed immediately prior to the center guiding roll. After the center guiding roll the fabric passes through a metal detection device and then under a dancer roll. The dancer adjust and compensate the speed of the Lifter or center guiding roll to control the fabric tension as it passes from the entry to the C2500. THE STEAM SECTION As the fabric strand passes over the steam box the fabric surface is blown with steam. This application of steam helps to lubricate the yarns of the knitted fabric by giving moisture, allowing the knit courses to compact more easily. (As the principles applied that while the fabric is wet easily the compaction can be easily achieved. THE WIDTH CONTROL ROLL The width control or bilateral slat roll controls the width of the fabric by moving the slats on the surface of the roll in or out by manipulating the position of the control cams located one at each end of the roll. The positions of the cams are controlled by the photo sensors that are seeking each of the two fabric selvedges. The amount of width control available is varies on the type of fabric being processed. The more slack the wider the width and the pull position can reduce drastically the width. THE FOLDER From the compacting zone the fabric pass to the take-off roller and pass to the conveyor, the fabric passes between plaiter rolls that move back and forth and plaited in the adjustable (up and down) stainless table. THE COMPACTION SECTION The station consists of a feed roll, a retard roll and a shoe section. The feed roll and shoe are heated to aid the process of compaction. When the station is closed the point of contact between these three component parts is known as
  • 39. 39 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 39 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd the compacting zone. The speed of the retard roll is variable in relation to the feed roll with the amount of compaction imparted to the fabric being controlled by the differential between these two rollers. Speeds and temperatures are fully adjustable to allow the desired shrinkage results in the finished fabric. The Principle of Compaction Before After The stitch counts of the fabric before compaction (left diagram above) are measured by counting the number of stitches per inch. The fabric is driven into the compaction zone by the feed roll. The fabric is transported to the point of the compaction zone where the shoe tip, feed roll and retard roll come into contact, the resistance to the fabric motion that is applied by the slower running speed of the retard roll allows the feed roll to push the stitches closer together creating more stitches per inch (right diagram above). The difference between the number of stitches entering the compactor by comparison to the number of stitches exiting the compactor. This difference expressed as a percentage is the amount of compaction that has been applied to the fabric. FABRIC QUALITY Fabric from the C2500 should have consistent compaction, an even cross-line, and an even texture and appearance. Since compacting is the last finishing process, it is sometimes necessary to compensate for shortcomings in other processes up the line even as far back as knitting. It is better, however, to correct these problems at their origin rather than to try to make up for them in the compaction process.
  • 40. 40 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 40 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd C2500 COMPACTOR MAIN OPERATOR CONTROLS EMERGENCY STOP. Disable all motion and process capabilities of the compactor. All emergency stop pushbuttons on the C2500 Compactor latch when pressed and release if pulled upwards. E-STOP RESET. Reset the emergency circuit after an emergency stop push button has been operated. A green indicator is illuminated when the emergency stop circuit is healthy. MOTION STOP. Disable all motion capabilities of START and JOG push buttons. All STOP push buttons on the Delta Plus latch when pressed and release if pulled upwards. START. Enable the C2500 Compactor in a running condition, the C2500 Compactor can only be started after all stop conditions are released. JOG ALL. Place the C2500 Compactor in a JOG condition at a jog speed of approximately 15 YPM. The JOG Push-button is used primarily during threading. The C2000 can only be jogged after all stop conditions are released. HEAT SYSTEM OFF / ON. Switch used to turn the feed roll and shoe heating system off and on. In the on position the circulating pumps will start and the steam supply to the heat exchanger will be enabled. SHOE OPEN. Illuminated pushbutton that, when pressed, opens the station. The light inside the button comes on indicating the shoe is closed. SPEED INDICATOR. Indicate the compactor speed in yards per minute or meters per minute, depending upon customer requirements. RETARD ROLL DEC / INC. INC - increases set point ratio of Retard Roll, which in turn increases speed of retard roll motor DEC - decreases set point ratio of retard roll, which in turn decreases speed of retard roll motor.
  • 41. 41 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 41 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd BATCHER DEC / INC. INC - increases set point ratio of Batching Rolls, which in turn increases speed of Batching Rolls motor DEC - decreases set point ratio of Batching Rolls, which in turn decreases speed of Batching Rolls motor. ¸iæZ¡c~Y©: 1. A‡bK nvB †Kvqv‡jwci †gwkb 2. wms‡KR †Kv›Uª‡ji Rb¨ A‡bK ¸iæZ¡c~Y©, we‡kl K‡i wc‡K, ixe Ges g¨vm B›Uvi jK, jvKó Kvc‡oi Rb¨| 3. wRGmGg †Kv›Uªj A‡bK fvj nq 4. Av`ªZv †Kv›Uªj fvj nq| mZK©Zv: 1. Acv‡iwUs Rvbv bv _vK‡j, Acv‡iwUs Kiv hv‡e bv| 2. GK GK K‡i me †mU Avc wVK K‡i, †gwkb ivb Ki‡Z n‡e, Zv bv n‡j weivU `~N©Ubv MV‡Z cv‡i| 3. ‡mjvB Qvov †gwk‡b wMU w`‡q, Kvco ‡gwk‡b cÖ‡ek Kiv‡bv hv‡e bv| 4. ‡gwkb wU A‡bK `vwg Ges cÖwZwU cvm© I `vwg, evsjv‡`‡k mn‡R cvIqv hv‡e bv| Gi e¨envi I GKUz †ewZµwg| 5. Kvc‡o Afvi K‡¤úKkb n‡Z cv‡i|
  • 42. 42 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 42 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd Batch Card 1 Collect Batch Card 2 Shade Light/ Dark Required 1 Adjust Parameter 2 M/c Tension ok or not 3 Air Pressure available. Manpower 1 Operation Area one person/Operator 2 Input side one & side one person Check 1 Check Shade & GSM, Width 2 Compaction % Allowable)
  • 43. 43 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 43 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd Open width Compactor: (Lafer Felt System) Kvc‡oi gPwib Avei‡bi Rb¨ Ges wms‡KR I wRGmGg †Kv›Uªj Kivi Rb¨| ¸iæZ¡c~Y©: 1. eøvs‡KU wmUv‡gi Kvi‡Y Kvco LyeB gmwib nq| eøvs‡KU 2. e¨env‡i †Zgb †Kvb SzwK _v‡K bv| 3. Kvc‡oi mvBR wVK ivLv hvq| 4. Acv‡iwUs wmmUvg LyeB mnR| 5. wms‡KR ‡Kv›Uªj fvj nq| mZK©Zv: 1. ‡mjvB Qvov †gwk‡b wMU w`‡q, Kvco ‡gwk‡b cÖ‡ek Kiv‡j, †Ucjb bó n‡q hv‡e| 2. Kvc‡o Afvi K‡¤úKkb n‡Z cv‡i| 3. mvBR Kg †ewk n‡Z cv‡i|
  • 44. 44 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 44 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd Adjustment. 1. Temperature. 2. Left side pinning 3. Right side pinning 4. Blanket Pressure. 5. Over feed % 6. Under feed % 7. Width Adjust 8. Out steam ratio 9. M/c Speed. Open width Compactor (SOP) Batch Card 1 Collect Batch Card 2 Shade Light/ Dark Required 1 Need Clean or not 2 Adjust Parameter 3 Air Pressure & Steam available. Manpower 1 Operation Area one person/Operator 2 Input side one & side one person Check 1 Check Shade & GSM, Width 2 Compaction % Allowable)
  • 45. 45 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 45 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd Open Width Compactor: Open compactor is used for compacting the open form fabric. Here, slitting machine is used for open the fabric from the tubular form. Feature of Open Width Compactor: Perfect sanforising finishing of knit fabrics. 1. Ideally suitable for in-line with stenter machines. 2. Effective shrinkage control 3. A.C. Inverter drives, PLC with touch screen used. 4. Equipped with modem connectivity and online troubleshooting system. 5. Metal detector. Working Procedure of Open Width Compactor: Open Width Compactor is suitable for open width knit fabrics to achieve exact dimensional stability and a soft feel. The machine generally consists of a feeding frame with centering device and driven scroll rollers, an equalizing stenter frame with over feed roller and brush pinning arrangement. The entry section of Pin Frame is provided with edge spreaders IR In-Feed device, an S.S. fabricated steaming unit for uniform moistening of the fabric. The Steaming Device has stainless steel sliding shutters that allow steam to flow only as per the width of the fabric. A low contact Glueing and Drying unit is provided with a stainless steel trough. Four selvedge drying units with infra-Red emitters are placed on either side of the machine. The delivery side section consists of edge dryer, Selvedge trimmer and a suction device, Exit roller, Width Adjustment device and the drive to the chain are housed in a exit box. The compacting unit consists of 2 felt compacting units, each of them consisting of a Nomex felt approx. 20 mm thick, a steam heated chrome-plated center roller of dia. 400 mm, a rubber covered roller driven by variable
  • 46. 46 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 46 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd frequency drive, a compacting pressure roller, a felt tensioning roller and a felt centering roller. Each unit is provided with a special anti-fiction sheet type shoe controlled by an electrical actuator to control the compressive shrinkage. A fabric cooling roller is provided after second felt to cool the fabric by means of chilled water circulation. Fabric Tension through the machine is controlled with the help of sensitive load cells and variable frequency drive with PLC and touch screen. Specification of Open Width Compactor Machine: Brand name Lafer SPA Model no. Comptex /Fv200 Manufacturing country Italy Speed range 13-22 m/min Temperature 110-140C Used utilities Electricity, Compress air, Steam Production capacity 4 ton/day Maximum width 86” Minimum width 36” Applied for Open width Application or Uses of Compactor Machine in Textile Industry: Compactor machine has done a lot of technical works, which are mentioned in the below: 1. It controls the shrinkage of fabric. 2. Fabric GSM can be controlled by using compactor machine. In case of high GSM, overfeed of compactor machine is
  • 47. 47 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 47 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd increased; as a result, fabric width is decreased. In case of low , overfeed of compactor machine is decreased; as aGSM result, fabric width is increased. 3. It improves the opacity of the fabric. 4. It has a significant contribution in twisting control. 5. Smoothness of fabrics will be increased by using this machine. 6. It imports different degree of luster to the fabric. 7. It compresses the fabric and reduces the thickness. 8. It helps to control proper fabric width. 9. It upgrades the fabric hand feel and import a silky touch to the fabric. 10. Heat setting in has done by using this machine.fabric 11. It also reduces the yarn slippage. Technical Data of Open Width Compactor:
  • 48. 48 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 48 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd Tube Compactor: wUDe Kvco †K mvBR AbyhvB gmwib Ges w¯’wZ¯’vcKZv ÿZvi Rb¨ cÖwµqv MZ fv‡e wdwbms Kiv n‡q _v‡K| ¸iæZ¡c~Y©: 1. evs‡KU wmUv‡gi Kvi‡Y Kvco LyeB gmwib nq| 2.e¨env‡i †Zgb †Kvb SzwK _v‡K bv| 3.wUDe Kvc‡oi mvBR ‡Kv›Uª‡j ivLv hvq| 4.Acv‡iwUs wmmUvg LyeB mnR| 5.wms‡KR ‡Kv›Uªj fvj nq|
  • 49. 49 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 49 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd mZK©Zv: 1.‡mjvB Qvov †gwk‡b wMU w`‡q, Kvco ‡gwk‡b cÖ‡ek Kiv‡j, †Ucjb bó n‡q hv‡e| 2.Kvc‡o Afvi K‡¤úKkb n‡Z cv‡i| 3.mvBR Kg †ewk n‡Z cv‡i| 4.‡Ucv‡iPvi †ewk n‡j †mW bó n‡q †h‡Z cv‡i| Adjustment. 1. Temperature. 2. Left side & Right side wheel same speed 3. Blanket Pressure. 4. Over feed % 5. Under feed % 6. Width Adjust 7. Out steam ratio 8. M/c Speed.
  • 50. 50 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 50 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd Tubular Compactor: Tubular compactor is used after hydro-extractor, de-watering and dryer. By the compactor machine, compacting is done for control the shrinkage of the fabric. Here, different types of off line quality of the fabric are measured. Functions of Tubular Compactor: Following objectives are achieved by the tubular compactor. They are- 1. Shrinkage of the fabric is controlled by the compactor. 2. Fabric width is controlled by the compactor. 3. GSM of the fabric is adjusted by the compacting. 4. Fabric smoothness is achieved by the compactor. 5. Heat setting of fabric for Lycra is done by tubular compactor. Working Procedure of Tubular Compactor: The treatment of knit fabrics in tubular form on the Tubular compactor meets the exacting standards set by customers so that garment stitched from the fabric finished on this machine will yield the lowest residual shrinkage values. 1. Width control through a stepless adjustable special tubular fabric spreader driven by variable speed motor for distortion-free fabric guidance. 2. Steaming with a condensate-free steam box which is easily operated and completely made from stainless stell. 3. Compacting through two Nomex felt belts. 4. Calendaring while passing between the felt belt and the heated shrinking rollers. 5. Precision plaiting with automatic platform level adjustment controlled by folded fabric height. Alternatively, a fabric rolling system can be provided. The fabric is fed through the guiding system and stretcher which then takes the fabric through the steam box onto the felt of the twin compacting units.
  • 51. 51 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 51 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd At the fabric delivery, the machine is equipped with a precision plaiting device with its platform. The height of the platform is controlled automatically and is adjustable according to the plaited fabric height. An optical fabric density measuring sensor can provide the means to automatically control the compaction of a tubular compactor to achieve the desired course count. An automatic compaction control system based on density measurement and control will:  Eliminate over- and under-weight fabric.  Reduce or eliminate punch-weight measurements.  Provide consistent results from all operators.  Result in uniform fabric, seam-to-seam.  Yield predictable residual shrinkage. Specification of Tubular Compactor Machine: Brand name Ferraro Model no. Comptex/Fv200 Manufacturing country Italy Speed range 13-22 m/min Temperature 110-140C Used utilities Electricity, Compress air,Steam Production capacity 4 ton/day Maximum width 86” Minimum width 36” Applied for Open width
  • 52. 52 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 52 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd Tube Compactor Machine (SOP) Batch Card 1 Collect Batch Card 2 Shade Light/ Dark Required 1 Need Clean or not 2 Adjust Parameter 3 Air Pressure & Steam available. Manpower 1 Operation Area one person/Operator 2 Delivery side 1 & Packing 1 person Check 1 Check Shade & GSM, Width 2 Compaction % Allowable)
  • 53. 53 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 53 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd Brushing/ Rising Machine: Kvco Gi GK mvB‡Wi dvBevi ¸‡jv‡K KvD›Uvi dvB‡ji mvnv‡h¨ Zz‡j gmwib Kiv nq, hvnv g¨vKvwb‡Kj wdwbwms Gi gva¨‡g ZzjZz‡j K‡i KvswLZ j‡ÿ †cŠ‡Q| ¸iæZ¡c~Y©: 1.Kvco Gi GK mvB‡Wi dvBevi ¸‡jv‡K KvD›Uvi dvB‡ji mvnv‡h¨ Zz‡j gmwib Kiv nq, hvnv ZzjZz‡j K‡i KvswLZ j‡ÿ †cŠ‡Q| 2.wdwjm Kvc‡o GB cÖwµq Kiv nq 3.Kvc‡oi ¸bvMb e„w× Kiv nq|
  • 54. 54 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 54 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd Adjustment:- 1. Pile. 2. Counter Pile. 3. Brush (Drum) Speed. 4. Fabrics Tension. 5. M/c Speed. mZK©Zv: 1. Kvc‡oi I‡q IqvBR eªvku Ki‡Z n‡e, bv n‡j eªvku n‡e bv| 2.dvBj Ges KvD›Uvi dvBj Gi g¨vP wVK bv n‡j eªvku n‡e bv| 3.Kvco ùU n‡Z n‡e, Zv bv n‡j eªvku n‡e bv| 4. †mW Gi mgm¨v nIqvi m¤¢vebv †ewk _v‡K| 5.GbRvBg †ewk n‡j eªv‡ku m¯§mv n‡e| Raising or Napping A finishing process that raises the surface fibers of a fabric by means of passage over rapidly revolving cylinders covered with metal points or teasel burrs. Outing, flannel, and wool broadcloth derive their downy appearance from this finishing process. Napping is also used for certain knit goods, blankets, and other fabrics with a raised surface. The raising process is a very old technique known also to Romans (as pictured in some paintings found in Pompeii). This operation is particularly suitable for wool and cotton fabrics; it gives a fuzzy surface by abrading the cloth and pulling the fibre end to the surface. During those last years this process has also been applied on polyester/viscose blends and acrylic fabrics. By means of this process a hairy surface can be given to both face and back of the cloth providing several modifications of the fabric appearance, softer and fuller hand and bulk increase. This enhances the resistance of the textile material to atmospheric agents, by improving thermal insulation and warmth provided by the insulating air cells in the nap. The fuzzy surface is created by pulling the fibre end out of the yarns by means of metal needles provided with hooks shelled into the rollers that scrape the fabric surface. The ends of the needles
  • 55. 55 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 55 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd protruding from the rollers are 45°-hooks; their thickness and length can vary and they are fitted in a special rubber belt spiral-wound on the raising rollers. These rollers are generally alternated with a roller with hooks directed toward the fabric feed direction (pile roller), and a roller with the hooks fitted in the opposite direction (counterpile roller). Raising rollers The machine also includes some rotating brushes, which suction-clean the nibs in pile and counterpile directions. Actually the trend goes towards a ratio of raising rollers/pile rollers equal or 1/3. The two series of rollers have independent motion and can rotate with different speed and direction thus carrying out different effects. Raising (napping) machine 1. Roller; 2. Rollers equipped with hooks; 3. Fabric; 4. Nib cleaning brushes; 5. fabric tension adjustment The action of these systems is almost powerful and the results depend upon the effects and the type of fabric desired . The raising effect can be obtained by adjusting the fabric tension (5) or by adjusting the speed and the roller rotation direction (2). Once a certain limit has been exceeded, the excessive mechanical stress could damage the fabric: it is therefore better, when carrying out a powerful raising, to pass the wet fabric through the raising machine many times (dry when processing cotton fabrics) and treat the fabrics in advance with softening- lubricating agents. Raising the face of the fabric The pile extraction is easier when carried out on single fibers: it is therefore suitable to reduce the friction between the fibers by wetting the material or, in case of cellulose fibers, by previously steaming the fabric. For the same reasons, it is better to use slightly twisted yarns. The same machine allows different options of independent motions:
  • 56. 56 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 56 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd 1. Fabric moving between entry and exit 2. Motion of large drum 3. Motion of raising rollers The raising intensity can be adjusted by suitably combining the above mentioned independent motions, the tension of the textile material, the number of .pile wise. or Counterpile. Raising rollers and their relative speed. It is possible to obtain .combed pile. Raising effect, "semi-felting" effect with fibres pulled out and re-entered in the fabric, and complete felting effect. The raising machine is equipped with two overlapping drums each one featuring 24 rollers, which can process two faces or face and back of the same fabric. The drums assembled on a standard machine can rotate separately one from the other in the fabric feeding direction or in the opposite direction by carrying out a counter rotation. In this model all the functions are carefully monitored and controlled by a computer system; in particular all the commands are driven by alternating power motors controlled by "Sensorless" vector inverters. The control electric system features: 1). PLC programmable controller for machine and alarms automation; 2). Touch screen to program and update all processing parameters; 3). Operating conditions of each single raising process (up to one million. recipes") that can be stored to facilitate the batch reproduction. Furthermore, a series of special pressure rollers can be assembled on the feeding cylinders to prevent the fabric from sliding, thus granting an extremely smooth raising. The raising process ability lies merely in raising the desired quantity of fibre ends without excessively reducing the fabric resistance. For this reason, the technique applying the alternated use of pile and counterpile rollers is the most widely used since it minimizes the loss of fibres from the fabric and the consequent resistance reduction. Standard raising machines have been designed to work with fabrics powerfully tensioned essentially because they are not equipped with an efficient and reliable tension control. This gives rise to the effects detailed below:
  • 57. 57 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 57 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd 1) The contact surface between the fabric and the raising cylinders is quite small; 2) The hook nibs work only superficially on the fabric and the raising effect is quite reduced; 3) The fabric width is drastically reduced. The above mentioned inconveniences have now been eliminated thanks to the last generation of raising machines, which reduce the number of passages and carry out the raising process by gently tensioning the fabric. Brushing Machine (SOP) Batch Card 1 Collect Batch Card 2 Shade Light/ Dark Required 1 Standard Quality 2 Adjust Parameter 3 Air Pressure available. Manpower 1 Operation Area one person/Operator 2 Fabrics Preparing one Check 1 Check Shade & Any line Mark/Hole 2 Elongation % Allowable
  • 58. 58 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 58 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd Peach Finish / Sueding Machine: Kvco †K ùU Kivi Rb¨ cøvmwU‡Ki eªvkvu Gi mvnv‡h¨ Nl©‡bi gva¨‡g g¨vKvwb‡Kj c×wZi mvnv‡h¨ wdwbwms Kiv n‡q _v‡K| ¸iæZ¡c~Y©: 1.Kvc‡o Dc‡ii mvB‡Wi dvBevi ¸‡jv‡K cøvmwU‡Kj eªv‡kui mvnv‡h¨ gmwib Kivi g¨vKvwb‡Kj wdwbwms c×wZ e¨envi Kiv nq| 2. me ai‡bi Kvc‡o GB cÖwµq Kiv nq, hvnv‡K g¨vKvwb‡Kj wdwbwms ejv n‡q _v‡K| 3. Kvc‡oi ¸bvMb e„w× Kiv nq| mZK©Zv: 1. Kvc‡oi I‡q IqvBR eªvku Ki‡Z n‡e, bv n‡j md&U n‡e bv| 2. dvBj Gi g¨vP wVK bv n‡j Kvco m n‡e bv|
  • 59. 59 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 59 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd 3. Kvco ùU n‡Z n‡e, Zv bv n‡j eªvku n‡e bv| 4. GbRvBg †ewk n‡j mdU Gi m¯§mv n‡e| 5. Gqvi †cÖmvi wVK _vK‡Z n‡e| 6. †mW Gi mgm¨v nIqvi m¤¢vebv †ewk _v‡K| 7. Kvc‡oi †Ubkb †ewk n‡j, wP`ª n‡q hv‡e| Adjustment. 1. Taken in Roller Tension. 2. Drum Tension. 3. Fabrics Return Roller Tension. 4. Plaiter Roller Tension. 5. Drum Speed. 6. M/c Speed.
  • 60. 60 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 60 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd Peach Finish Machine: Peach finish machine is the process where the peach fabric becomes smoother. By this process especially for twill fabric the diagonal line become lowered with the application of microsand paper or carbon wire brushing. In Auto TL there is one peach finish machine. The machine description is given below. Peach Finish Machine Specification  M/C Name: Lafer (SPA)  Drum speed: 90 m/min  No of r/r: 24 (Positive- 12, Negative- 12)  Speed: 20m/min (light peach)  Belt Pressure: 2.6 bar  Drum Pressure: 9 bar Types of Peach Finish There are 3 types of peach finish  Light  Medium  Heavy Objective of Peach Finish  Wide range of brushing effects which can be replicated through time.  Completely defect-free fabric processing.  Flexible drawing-in in the various right-back side combinations.  High production speed. Brushing unit of Peach Finish Machine: It contain 2 to 6 roller according to design. For microsand brushing each roller contains 24 rollers which move forward & backward with the same speed of containing roller. In carbon wire type machine all the roller contain carbon wire which performed brushing. The entire
  • 61. 61 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 61 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd roller can control individually. Here belt pressure is 2.6 bar & drum pressure is 9 bar, which depend on quality of fabric. Fabric outlet & batching: After that the fabric become smooth this is rolled on batcher for washing. Control Panel of Peach Finish Machine: From control panel all types of instruction can be provide to the machinery. This machine has a full manual control panel. The operator controls every process by control switch. Open width Sueding Machine (SOP) Batch Card 1 Collect Batch Card 2 Shade Light/ Dark Required 1 Standard Quality 2 Adjust Parameter 3 Air Pressure available. Manpower 1 Operation Area one person/Operator 2 Fabrics Preparing one Check 1 Check Shade & Line Mark/Hole 2 Elongation % Allowable)
  • 62. 62 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 62 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd Ultra soft/ Peach Finish (Tube Fabrics)- wUDe Kvco myBwWs Kivi g¨vKvwb‡Kj wdwbwms †gwkb| ¸iæZ¡c~Y©: 1. wUDe Kvco g¨vKvwb‡Kj c×wZi gva¨‡g myBwWs / AvëvmdU Kiv nq| 2. Kvco wi‡R± nIqvi m¤¢vebv Kg _v‡K| 3. Kvc‡oi ¸bvMb e„w× Kiv nq| mZK©Zv: 1. Kvc‡oi I‡q IqvBR eªvku Ki‡Z n‡e, bv n‡j md&U n‡e bv| 2. dvBj Ges KvD›Uvi dvBj Gi g¨vP wVK bv n‡j Kvco m n‡e bv| 3. Kvco ùU n‡Z n‡e, Zv bv n‡j eªvku n‡e bv| 4. GbRvBg †ewk n‡j mdU Gi m¯§mv n‡e| 5. Gqvi †cÖmvi wVK _vK‡Z n‡e| 6. †mW Gi mgm¨v nIqvi m¤¢vebv †ewk _v‡K|
  • 63. 63 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 63 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd Adjustment. 1. Taken in Roller Tension. 2. Drum Tension. 3. Fabrics Return Roller Tension. 4. Plaiter Roller Tension. 5. Drum Speed. 6. Air pressure 7. M/c Speed Tube Sueding Machine (SOP) Batch Card 1 Collect Batch Card 2 Shade Light/ Dark Required 1 Standard Quality 2 Adjust Parameter 3 Air Pressure & Steam available. Manpower 1 Operation Area one person/Operator 2 Delivery side 1 & Packing 1 person Check 1 Check Shade & GSM, Width 2 Compaction % Allowable)
  • 64. 64 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 64 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd Emerizing Machine (BgvivBwRs wdwbwms)- g¨vKvwb‡Kj wdwbwms Gi gva¨‡g wKQ' Nbv©qgvb †ivjv‡ii wmwiR KvM‡Ri b¨vq wKQz `v‡Zveq c`v‡_©i Nl©‡bi Øviv Kvc‡oi gmwibZv m„wó K‡i| ¸iæZ¡c~Y©: 1. wKQ' Nbv©qgvb †ivjv‡ii wmwiR KvM‡Ri b¨vq wKQz `v‡Zveq c`v‡_©i Nl©‡bi Øviv Kvc‡oi gmwibZv m„wó K‡i| 2. nvjKv nvjKv dvBev‡ †K Nl©‡bi mvnv‡h¨ Zz‡j Kvco‡K mdU K‡i †`q| 3. `ÿ Acv‡iU‡ii Øviv eªvku †gwkb w`‡qI GgvivBwRs wdwbwms Kiv m¤¢ve|
  • 65. 65 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 65 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd mZK©Zv: 1. †Ubkb †ewk n‡j, Kvco wQ‡o †h‡Z cv‡i, Ges wQ`ª n‡q †h‡Z cv‡i| 2. ‡mW cwieZ©b Ki‡Z cv‡i| 3. Kvco ùU n‡Z n‡e, Zv bv n‡j eªvku n‡e bv| Adjustment. 1. Taken in Roller Tension. 2. Drum Tension. 3. Fabrics Return Roller Tension. 4. Plaiter Roller Tension. 5. Drum Speed. 6. Air pressure 7. M/c Speed
  • 66. 66 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 66 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd Emerizing Machine (SOP) Batch Card 1 Collect Batch Card 2 Shade Light/ Dark Required 1 Standard Quality 2 Adjust Parameter 3 Air Pressure & Steam available. Manpower 1 Operation Area one person/Operator 2 Delivery side 1 & Packing 1 person Check 1 Check Shade & GSM, Width 2 Compaction % Allowable)
  • 67. 67 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 67 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd Combing Machine (Kw¤¢s †gwkb) - eªvku Kiv Kvco‡K †kqvwis Kivi c~‡e© Avku M~‡jv‡K wPiwbi g‡Zv AvPwi‡q †kqvwis G KvUvi Dc‡hvMx K‡i †Zvjvi Rb¨ g¨vKvwb‡Kj wdwbwms Gi gva¨‡g cÖwµqv m¤ú~b© Kiv| ¸iæZ¡c~b©: 1. eªvku Kiv Kvco‡K †kqvwis Kivi c~‡e© Avku M~‡jv‡K wPiwbi g‡Zv AvPwi‡q †kqvwis G KvUvi Dc‡hvMx K‡i †Zvjv nq| 2. KvD›Uvi dvBj Gi gva¨‡g Avku ¸‡jv‡K Lvov Lvov K‡i ‡`Iqv nq| 3. A‡Uv‡gwUK cwRk‡b ivL‡Z n‡e, †Zgb †jvK bv n‡jI P‡j, †kqvwis †gwk‡bi †jvK w`‡q Acv‡iU gwbUwis Kiv hv‡e|
  • 68. 68 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 68 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd mZK©Zv: 1.‡Lqvj ivL‡Z n‡e, †hb †Kvb dvBevi Kgwes Qvov bv _v‡K, Zvn‡j †kqvwis G KvUv hv‡e bv| 2. ‡kqvwis Gi cÖ‡qvRb Abyhvqx Kgwes Ki‡Z n‡e, Zv bv n‡j Kgwes Gi cÖ‡qvRbxqZv bó n‡q hv‡e|
  • 69. 69 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 69 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd Combing Machine (SOP) Batch Card 1 Collect Batch Card 2 Check Brush Position Required 1 Check Shearing Standard 2 Auto Adjustment 3 Air Pressure available. Manpower 1 If Shearing Machine running, So Shearing operator can operate, 2 no need Extra person Check 1 Check Combing position 2 Not Keep more time combing position Adjustment:- 1. Counter Pile/ Only Pile 2. Brush (Drum) Speed. 3. Fabrics Tension. 4. M/c Speed.
  • 70. 70 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 70 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd Sharing Machine (‡kqvwis ‡gwkb): eªvkvu Kivi c‡i, dvBevi ¸‡jv‡K mgvb Kivi Rb¨ †K‡U †µZvi Pvwn`v Abyhvqx K‡i †Zvjv| ¸iæZ¡c~b©: 1. †kqvwis †gwkb GKwU AZ¨vawbK wdwbwms cª‡mwms †gwkb, hvnv Kvc‡oi ¸bvMyb e„w× K‡i| 2. Kvc‡oi Dcwi fv‡Mi AwZwi³ Avku ev dvBevi ¸‡jv‡K †K‡U _yeB gmwib K‡i †`q| 3. AZ¨vawbK ‡Kvqv‡jwU m¤ú~Y© Kvco ‰Zwi‡Z GB †gwkb LyeB ¸iæZ¡c~b© 4. K¤¢j ˆZix‡Z LyeB ¸iæZ¡c~b©
  • 71. 71 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 71 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd mZK©Zv: 1. LyeB `vwg †gwkb, 2. cwiPvjbvq mZK©Zv Aejgeb Ki‡Z nq, Zv bv n‡j `yNVbv NUvi m¤¢ebv †ewk _v‡K| 3. LyeB `ÿ Acv‡iU‡ii `iKvi nq| 4. Kvco KvUv hvevi m¤¢vebv †ewk _v‡K| 5. Gqvi †cÖmvi wVK _vK‡Z n‡e, Zv bv n‡j †Kvqv‡jwU fvj n‡e bv| Adjustment:- 1. Taker in Tension. 2. Lower Tension. 3. Blade Distance. 4. Table Distance. 5. Cutter RPM. 6. Plater Tension. 7. Machine RPM
  • 72. 72 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 72 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd Check after Process. 1. Cutting. 2. Uneven Cutting. 3. Side to Side Variation. 4. Line Mark.
  • 73. 73 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 73 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd Sharing Machine (SOP) Batch Card 1 Collect Batch Card 2 Check Brush Position Required 1 Check Shearing Standard 2 Auto Adjustment 3 Air Pressure available. Manpower 1 One Experience Person 2 Back 1 & Font side 1 person Check 1 Cutting % 2 Line/ Uneven Cutting
  • 74. 74 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 74 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd Singing Machine (‡mbwRs †gwkb): Kvc‡oi Dcwi fv‡Mi Avku ¸‡jv‡K Av¸‡bi mvnv‡h¨ cy‡o †djv‡bv‡K †mbwRs e‡j| ¸iæZ¡c~b©: 1. we‡kl K‡i cwj÷vi Ges KUb wg• dvBevi Gi Kvc‡o wmbwRs K‡i _v‡K| 2. cÖ‡mm jP Kg n‡e 3. BbRvBg Kiv jvM‡e bv,ZvB WvBs UvBg Kg jvM‡e| 4. Kvco wi‡RKkb Kg nq, WvBs UvBg Kg jv‡M Ges BbRvBg Kiv jv‡M e‡j| 5.Kvc‡Mi ÷¨vš' †ewk _v‡K|
  • 75. 75 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 75 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd Singeing The verb ‘singe’ literally means ‘to burn superficially’. Technically, singeing refers to the burning-off of. Loose fibers not firmly bound into the yarn and/or fabric structure. Singeing is an important part of pretreatment. This is the burning off of protruding fiber ends from the surface of the fabric. If not done properly, unclear print patterns, mottled fabric surfaces, and pilling results.  Loose yarns not firmly bound into the fabric structure;  Protruding fiber ends sticking out of the textile yarns and/or fabrics. Textiles materials are most commonly singed in woven or knitted fabric form or in yarn form. Singeing Objectives & Advantages of Singeing  Singeing of a fabric is done in order to obtain a clean fabric surface which allows the structure of the fabric to be clearly seen.  Fabrics, which have been singed, soil less easily than un-singed fabrics.  The risk of pilling, especially with synthetics and their blends, is reduced in case of singed fabrics.  Singed fabrics allow printing of fine intricate patterns with high clarity and detail.
  • 76. 76 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 76 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd  The risk of skittery dyeing with singed articles dyed in dark shades is considerably reduced, as randomly protruding fibres are removed in singeing which could cause diffused reflection of light. Necessity of Singeing in Textile Singeing of textile materials is necessary for te following reasons:  Cotton materials are valued for their smooth appearance. After the formation of fabric it has a fuzzy or hairy appearance due to projecting fibers, thus affecting the luster and smoothness cotton is known for.  Unsigned fabrics are soiled easily  The protruding fibers obstruct the subsequent dyeing and printing process  Goods which are to be mercerized are signed to maximize the luster  In fabrics of polyester and cellulosic fiber blends singeing is the best method to control pilling, sometimes double singeing is done to minimize the pilling. Singeing Process Singeing process is as follows:  To produce a smooth surface finish on fabrics made from staple fibers first the fabric surfaces are brushed lightly to raise the unwanted fiber ends.  Then the fabric is singed with or passed over heated copper plates or open gas flames. The fiber ends burn off.  The fabric is moved very rapidly, and only the fiber ends are destroyed.  As soon as the fabric leaves the singeing area, it enters a water bath or desizing bath. This stops any singeing afterglow or sparks that might damage the cloth.
  • 77. 77 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 77 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd Precaution During Singeing Some of the precautions to be taken in considerations during singeing:- 1. The fabric to be singed should be dry as wet fabric tend to scorch more readily than dry. 2. Uneven singeing may cause streaks on fabric or bubbles when the fabric is finished. 3. Improper singeing may lead to loss of 75 % loss in tensile strength loss in warp direction. 4. The fabric should not contain any acid releasing salt,which may release acid on heating and tender the fabric. 5. Stopping the machines may cause bars on the fabrics. 6. Singeing may cause hardening of the size thus leading to difficulty in its removal. 7. Possibility of thermal damage to temperature sensitive fabrics. 8. The burning characteristics of fibers must be taken into account when this process is applied, as heat-sensitive fibers melt, forming tiny balls on the surface of the fabric. These balls interfere with dye absorption, so that, as a general rule, heat sensitive fibers would be singed after dyeing or printing.
  • 78. 78 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 78 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd Machine name : Singeing machine. Manufacture : OSTHOFF-seng GmbH and company. Origin : Germany. Heating source : Direct gas heating system. Temperature : 120-130C. Speed : For single jersey cotton: 50-60m/min (burner position -02) For 100% viscose: 65-75 m/min (burner position -02) For Lycra single jersey: 90/95 m/min (burner position -01) Flame : (10-12) bar for single jersey. (18-20) bar for single jersey. (16-18) bar for viscose Lycra
  • 79. 79 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 79 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd Singing Machine (SOP) Batch Card 1 Collect Batch Card 2 Check Combination Required 1 Customer Requirement 2 Auto Adjustment 3 Air Pressure & Gas pressure available. Manpower 1 One person Experience 2 One person Asst Knowledgeable Check 1 Check Hairiness 2 Any Flame position
  • 80. 80 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 80 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd mZK©Zv: 1. Av¸b jvM‡Z cv‡i Kvc‡o, cvwbi ‡¯úª w`‡q ivL‡Z n‡e| 2. ‡gwkb w¯úW A‡bK †ewk ZvB Acv‡iUi LyeB mZK© _vK‡Z n‡e| 3. mnKvix Acv‡iUi I mZK© _vK‡Z n‡e KviY †Kvb Kvi‡Y Acv‡iUi Ag‡bvRMx n‡Z cv‡i| 4. M¨vm PvwjZ ZvB †gwkb eÜ nIqvi mv‡_ mv‡_ Av¸b †j‡M †h‡Z cv‡i|
  • 81. 81 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 81 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd Tumble dryer (Uªv¤¢j Wvqvi): Uªv¤¢j Wªvqvi we‡kl K‡i Mv‡g©m WªvB Gi Kv‡R e¨envi Kiv n‡q _v‡K| Kvc‡oi †ÿ‡Î hLb wRGmGg Ges wms‡KR Lvivc _v‡K ZLb wVK Kivi †ÿ‡Î Uªv¤¢j Wvqvi e¨envi Kiv n‡q _v‡K| ¸iæZ¡c~Y©: 1.Iqvwms cÖ‡mm G Mv‡g©m ïKv‡bvi Rb¨ e¨envi Kiv n‡q _v‡K| 2.Mv‡g©m Gi wms‡KR wVK ivLvi Rb¨ e¨envi Kiv n‡q _v‡K| 3.wRGmGg Kg n‡j, fvov‡bvi Rb¨ 4. wms‡KR †ewk n‡j 5.gvB‡µv dvBevi Kvco Gw›U wcwjs Kivi Rb¨
  • 82. 82 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 82 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd mZK©Zv: 1.Afvi WªvB n‡q, †mW †PBR n‡q †h‡Z cv‡i| 2.Mv‡g©R Gi g¨vRvi‡g›U cwieZ©b n‡q †h‡Z cv‡i| 3.Kvco n‡j, AvbB‡fb n‡q †h‡Z cv‡i| 4. Kvc‡oi wRGmGg Gi cwieZ©b Avm‡Z cv‡i wgUvi U' wgUv‡i| 5.Bwó‡gi `vM Avm‡Z cv‡i| Adjustment- 1. Temperature 2. Steam 3. Timing 4. Cooling
  • 83. 83 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 83 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd Tumble Dryer (SOP) Batch Card 1 Collect Batch Card 2 Check Combination Required 1 Customer Requirement 2 Auto Adjustment 3 Steam pressure available. Manpower 1 One person Experience 2 Two person for packet Check 1 Any spot & Measurement 2 GSM & Compaction %
  • 84. 84 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 84 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd Bag Sewing Machine (e¨vM myBs †gwkb) - j¨vKiv Kvco wnU †mU Kivi c‡i, WvBs Kivi Rb¨ AveviI Kvco‡K wUDe Kivi Rb¨ GB †gwkb e¨envi Kiv n‡q _v‡K, hv‡Z AvbB‡fb bv Avm‡Z cv‡i| ¸iæZ¡c~Y©: 1.e¨vM myBs Gi d‡j, Kvc‡o AvbB‡eb Av‡m bv| 2.wµwiR gvK© Av‡m bv mZK©Zv: 1.fvj Acv‡iUi bv n‡j, †mj‡fR G †ewk myBs n‡q †h‡Z cv‡i| 2.mgvb fv‡e †mjvB bv n‡j, wµwiR gvK© Ges AvbB‡fb Avm‡Z cv‡i|
  • 85. 85 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 85 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd Adjustment- 1. Sewing measurement 2. Air Pressure 3. Speed 4. Sewing tension
  • 86. 86 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 86 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd Tumble Dryer (SOP) Batch Card 1 Collect Batch Card 2 How many dia Required 1 Air pressure 2 Auto Adjustment 3 Speed Manpower 1 One person Experience 2 one person for fabrics collect Check 1 Sewing evenness 2 In ½ inch need sewing
  • 87. 87 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 87 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd Standard Operating System 1. Collect Batch Card/ Process card 2. Follow Customer Standard/ Requirement 3. Quality Standard (Company) 4. Check Fabrication 5. Required GSM & Width 6. Confirm Shade which was unload from dyeing 7. Confirm test result avoid reprocess 8. Any Special finish required, Peach/ Brush/ Print 9. Check last batch/ Sample finish parameter 10. Check last batch/ Sample physical test result 11. Follow Company quality standard, Shrinkage & GSM tolerance 12. Hand feel & Hairiness tolerance 13. Follow next process like compactor or print 14. Communicate with Quality control department
  • 88. 88 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 88 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd Fabrics Finishing Procedure 1. Set up all necessary setting, temperature, width, over feed, under feed, Padder pressure, blower speed, Adjust fan, Moisture %, Cooling fan. 2. Shade & GSM check near of joint avoid the fabrics rejection 3. Every Joint must be straight sewing avoid the crease or Elephant Skin. Rejection 4. Without sewing/ don’t use knotted avoid the padder/ Teflon damage, also rejection 5. Softener use as customer standard 6. Silicon or Hydrophilic softener which is requirement 7. Padder Pick up % 8. Temperature requirement as shade wise 9. In selvage pin within ½ inch 10. Width 1 inch plus/ Minus 11. Within 2/3 rolls shade confirm from quality 12. Within 5 rolls adjust width, GSM & Shade, if not possible to adjust remove from process 13. Hairiness/ Hand feel confirm from Quality department 14. Rib or any accessories separate finish
  • 89. 89 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 89 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd Heat-setting is a heat treatment by which shape retention, crease resistance, resilience and elasticity are imparted to the fibers. It also brings changes in strength, stretch ability, softness, dye ability and sometimes on the color of the material. All these changes are connected with the structural and chemical modifications occurring in the fiber. This operation is crucial for fabrics made of synthetic fibers (PE, PA, elastomers), for triacetate, and partly for PAC fibers (setting), since it grants excellent dimensional stabilization and crease proof properties, maintained till the fabric is exposed (by air blowing) to temperatures exceeding the heat setting one (after being treated with water at a temperature above the second order glass transition temperature, i.e. 80- 85°C for acrylics). Heat setting is carried out on gray fabrics (scarcely applied), on scoured fabrics (frequently applied) and on dyed fabrics (scarcely applied). The process grants excellent dimensional stability and good crease-proof properties. As far as operating conditions are concerned, the fabric must be treated in accurately controlled moisture and temperature conditions.
  • 90. 90 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 90 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd 1. Heat setting is a heat treatment by which shape retention, Crease resistance, resilience and elasticity are imparted to the fibers. 2. Change in strength, stretch ability, softness , dye ability and Sometimes in color. 3. Changes occur due to structural and chemical modification of fibers. Stages of Heat setting Heat setting can be carried out at three different stages: 1. In grey condition 2. After scouring 3. After dyeing Heat setting at grey stage 1.If heat setting is carried out in loom state, mineral oils and non-ionic emulsifiers can modify the fiber. 2.2. Structure and rubbing and perspiration fastness may be reduced due to the solubility of disperse dye in the coning oil. 3.3. However, grey heat setting is useful in warp knitting industry as in that material carry less amount of lubricants. 4.4. Yellow color due to heat setting can be removed by bleaching. 5.5. Fabric is less sensitive to crease formation in next processes.
  • 91. 91 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 91 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd Heat setting after scouring Heat setting is done after scouring if it is suspected that: 1. Goods will shrink. 2. Cloth has developed stretch or other properties after scouring. Heat setting after dyeing These fabric shows considerable resistance to stripping Compared with dyeing on unset fabric. Disadvantage of this are: 1. Yellow color developed cannot be removed. 2. Handle of cloth may get altered. 3. Risk of color to get fade. Effect of heat setting on various of synthetic fibers 1. Structural changes 2. Dimensional stability 3. Stiffness 4. Crease recovery 5. Dye ability
  • 92. 92 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 92 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd HEAT SET PROCEDURE 1. Knitting Machine wise Batch Prepare. 2. Dyeing Machine wise Batch Prepare. 3. In Batch Card should be write M/c Dia, Gauge, Stitch Length, Yarn count & Required GSM. 4. Sewing time follow Needle line 5. Slitting time need to be carefully follow slitting line. 6. Grey GSM & Width check also compare with standard. 7. Stenter M/c parameter set as a Standard parameter sheet. 8. Width, Temperature & Speed Fixed If needed then adjust only overfeed. 9. Follow Color wise After heat set GSM 10. After Heat set keep record Roll to roll & within roll GSM. 11. Color wise identify & some rolls need to be write then not mix-up with another Color.
  • 93. 93 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 93 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd Lycra Grey Fabrics Relaxation Procedure Knitting 1. After knitting should be Relax stage not Roll stage 2. Maximum 24 Hours. Store 1. Not More the 24 hours 2. Within 24 hours hand over to Batch Section Batch Section 1. Batch Knitting M/c wise & Dyeing M/c Capacity wise 2. Within 2 hours Handover to Slitting. Slitting 1. Within one trolley Maximum 500 KG Keep. 2. After slitting Need 4 hours keeping. Stenter 1. Check Grey GSM & Width. 2. After stenter Relax minimum 2 Hours
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  • 97. 97 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 97 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd Mechanical Finish a. Brushing Process/ Napping/ Raising b. Peach Finish c. Emerizing finish d. Micro Polar Finish e.Singing Finish f. Shearing/ Creping g.Calendaring h.Sanforizing i. Beetling j. Embossing Chemical Finishing: A. Anti-Crease treatment B. Creping C. Fire Proofing D. Shrink Resistant E. UV Protective Finish. F. Wick Finish G. Mothproofing H. Oil Repellant I. Water Repellant
  • 98. 98 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 98 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd 1. Teflon Finish (Water Replant). Lurotex Tx2504 = 60. g/l. Perapret Booster XLR = 10. g/l. Acetic Acid = 0.5 g/l. pH (Check) - 4.5 Process - Dry Finish. Temperature- 110, 120, 130, 170, 170, 170, 170. Blower Speed-1800. Speed- 18 m/m. Note: Don’t use any kinds of Softener before Teflon Finish. 2. Resin Finish. Stabitex ETR = 40 g/l Condensol FAM = 12 g/l. Acetic Acide = 0.25 g/l. pH Check - 4.5 Process Dry Finish. Temperature- 150 Speed -15 Overfeed- 30%
  • 99. 99 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 99 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd 3. UV Protective Finish. Diyopol KUV = 40 g/l. Perapret FPEB = 20 g/l. Temperature- 140. Speed – 20. Overfeed – 50%, Note: Don’t use any kinds of Softener before UV Protective Finish & Dry Finish. 4. Wick Finish. Cefasoft SHB – 40 g/l. Temperature- 150. Speed – 18. Overfeed- 50%. Note: Don’t use any kind of Softener. 5. Polyester Finish. Hydroperm SRHA. TH – 20 g/l. Acetic Acid – 0.25 g/l. pH Check – 4.5 Temperature – 180 (Dark Color) Speed – 20. Overfeed – 30% Note: Wet Finish. Not dry Finish.
  • 100. 100 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 100 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd 6. Polyester Finish. Cefasoft SHD – 30 g/l. Sanitized T25-25-10 g/l. Acetic Acid - 0.5 g/l. pH Check – 4.5 Temperature- 180. (Dark Color) Speed – 20. Overfeed- 20 % Note: Wet Finish. Not dry Finish. Reporting System: 1. Floor Statues 2. Production Report with Achieving Percentage 3. Machine down time 4. Reprocessing report 5. Shrinkage report 6. Rout causes analysis repost 7. Keeping Customer Quality Swatch 8. Every Machine’s need specific details 9. Machine Wise Standard Operation Procedure 10. Buyer & Fabrication wise setting parameter 11. Operator to Manager need Job responsibility
  • 101. 101 | P a g e K n i t F a b r i c s F i n i s h i n g Page 101 of 101 ‡gv: wgRvbyi ingvb Bw_Iwcqv Chaity Composite Ltd GLv‡b D‡jøwLZ welqe¯Íy mg~n ev¯ÍeZvi Ges AwfÁZvi Av‡jv‡K mK‡ji eySevi myweavi Rb¨ gvZ…fvlvq Av‡jvwPZ, Avwg Avgvi ÿ`ª AwfÁZvi Av‡jv‡K †Póv K‡iwQ gvÎ, hw` †Kvb fvB Ges mn Kgx©, we›`y gvÎ DcK…Z nb, Zvn‡j wb‡R‡K fvM¨evb g‡b Kie, fzj ÎæwU n‡j, Rvbv‡j ms‡kv`b K‡i †be, Bbkv-Avjøvn| mK‡ji AvšÍwiK mn‡hvMxZv Kvgbv KiwQ, AvMvgx c_ Pjvi mv_x cve GB Avkvq| msKjb GÛ Dc¯’vcbvq:- BwÄwbqvi ‡gvnv¤§` wgRvbyi ingvb wb‡UW †d«we• G•cvU © weGmwm Bb †U•UvBj BwÄwbqvwis (AZxk w`csKi) wW‡cøvgv Bb †U•UvBj BwÄwbqvwis (AvB wU B wU, †bvqvLvjx) GwRGg (‡Kvqv‡jwU GÛ ‡cªvWv± ‡Wvfí‡g›U) ‰PwZ K‡¤úvwRU wj: ‡mvubviMvuI, bvivqbMÄ evsjv‡`k AwfÁZv- dwKi wbUIqvi wj: 9 eQi - wdwbwms, †Kvqv‡jwU GÛ WvBs mnKvwi g¨v‡bRvi Bwcwjqb wb‡U• wj: 3 eQi- wdwbwms g¨v‡bRvi ‰PwZ K‡¤úvwRU wj: 5 eQi, wdwbwms wmwbqi g¨v‡bRvi gv Mv‡g©bm GÛ †U•UvBj, Bw_Iwcqv- 2 eQi, d¨vwe· © (g¨v‡bRvi)wdwbwms G·cvU