Ready to start seeding your lawn? This slideshow goes through everything in the grass seeding process to maximize your work's potential, and ensure you achieve the results you're looking for.

1. LAWN APPRECIATION
FALL GRASS
SEEDING
PREPARATION
Critical Steps to Ensure Maximum Results
Created and Written By: Michael Abbaspour

2. The Necessary Steps
OUTLINE OF TOPICS
Perform a Soil Test
Eliminate Weeds
Spread Lime (Optional)
Apply Your Fertilizer
Perform Aeration
Spread Grass Seed
Optimize Your Watering Schedule

3. Objective #1 -
Perform a Soil Test
When you perform a soil test, you will receive data determining the
overall health of your soil. Included in the results, you will see a
recommended type of fertilizer which best suites your lawn's current
needs.
Results will determine what type of fertilizer you
should apply, as well as how much
Your soil's pH is the measure of its acidity and alkalinity. Too much in
either direction directly a fects the soil's nutrient availability.
It will let you know the pH of your soil
Having to spread fertilizer when you don't know your soil's current
health is like putting sugar in your cake batter when you don't know
how much the recipe calls for. You run the risk of going too heavy, or
too light, on your fertilizer applications.
You will save money, time, and other precious
resources. Most importantly, you don't run the risk of
harming your soil.
Equipment/Materials
Hand Shovel or Shovel of Any Kind
Soil Testing Kit (Optional)

4. How You Can Perform a Soil Test
Double-Needle Soil Tester Capsuled Soil Test Kit Use Local Agronomic Lab
ConsPros
Inexpensive
Quick Results
Easy to Use
Breaks Easily
Lack of Features
Cannot Detect
Important Data
ConsPros
Provides
Accurate
Results
Plenty of
Options
Still Beginner-
Friendly
Requires a Bit
More Steps
Emptying
Capsules Can Be
Cumbersome
Color-Based
Results Not
Always Clear
ConsPros
Most accurate
of the three
Less hands-on
Plenty of
useful
information
Need to
physically drop
off samples
Results can take
a long time
depending on
lab's efficiency
Get it Off AmazonGet it Off Amazon

5. Objective #2 -
Eliminate Weeds
Any existing weeds you possess when you perform your seeding will
make it that much harder for the seed to grow. Weeds need much less to
thrive o f of, and will easily win the competition of nutrient absorption.
Weeds will take crucial nutrients away from grass
seedlings
This is based more upon the type of weed; however, there are many
types of weeds where they possess larger foliage and stature. When
broadcasting your grass seed, their girth can block them from being
fully entered within the ground.
They block an entry way for grass seed to properly be
planted
Weeds just don't have the aesthetic appeal that grass does (unless
you're one of those people who love a lawn full of clover, but you
wouldn't be reading this slideshow if you were, right?).
It just doesn't look good
Equipment/Materials
Hand or Backpack Sprayer
Protective Gloves and Goggles
A Way to Measure the Herbicide
Herbicide Solution

6. We must first identify
the type of weed we're
facing. Some are easy to
tell, but others may not
be as simple. If you have
trouble, do some online
research or take a picture
to your local landscape
supply store
Step #1 - Weed
Identification
The type of weed will
determine the type of
herbicide best for the job.
Don't worry! Many
herbicides have the
ability to eliminate
hundreds of different
weed species. But check
the label to make sure.
Step #2 - Purchase
the Right Product
Mix the herbicide with
water based on the
directions on the label.
Make sure to see
directions on spot
spraying, or spraying
using a backpack sprayer.
Step #3 - Mix
According to Label
Let's get to it! You only
need to spray just enough
to cover the weed at a
surface level. Don't over
spray the weeds as it's not
necessary, and can even
run the risk of damaging
surrounding grass.
Step #4 - Spray
Away!
After your initial spray,
follow-up after two weeks
and spray the affected
areas again, or any
missed areas. If it looks as
if the weeds are
completely yellowing and
dying out, you don't need
to spray the same area
again.
Step #5 - Follow-
Up
Steps to Getting Rid of Weeds

7. Important Tips Regarding spraying
weeds!
Many herbicides (with few exceptions) run the risk of
damaging surrounding grass if sprayed above
temperatures of 85 degrees (F). This is problematic
during the summer season; however, early mornings
and late afternoons provide a good opportunity for you
to get the spraying done.
Don't Spray When It's Too Hot Outside
Many selective-herbicides (not harmful to the grass)
contain ingredients which, once sprayed, linger within
the soil until fully absorbed (ex. dicamba). Putting any
grass seed down while the herbicide's residue is still
present will immediately kill the grass seeds' chance at
growth. You must wait 3-4 weeks before you can seed.
Can't Seed Right Away After You Spray
Weeds are a tricky bunch, and unfortunately, you will
always need to face and handle them every year if you
want a green, lush lawn. Weeds also build-up, and if not
taken care of for a long period of time, can really take
over a lawn. Weeds shouldn't just be eliminated before
seeding, but should be kept under control all year.
Stay on the Offensive
Wear long jeans and long sleeves
Use safety goggles to prevent spray mist from
potentially reaching your eyes
Wear working boots or wading boots
Wear Protective Gear and Clothing
Fun Fact: You can spread grass seed safely after 72 hours after spraying Round-
Up (a non-selective herbicide which will kill almost any vegetation)

8. Spreading Lime
(Optional)
What is Lime?
As brie ly mentioned earlier, lime is a type of soil amendment used to alter its alkalinity.
This, in direct proportion and if done properly, increases the amount of nutrients available
for your plants.
How Do I Know If I Need It?
When you receive your soil test results, regardless of the method, it will put your soil's pH
levels within a range of numbers. Every grass-type is a bit di ferent, however, a good rule of
thumb is for the pH level to be between 5.5 - 6.5.
When Should You Apply It and How Much?
When in conjunction with seeding in the fall, if you're planning on applying fertilizer
(which you should), do NOT apply lime at the same time. Both of them contain positive
chemicals, once released, cancel each other out, weakening the bene iciary e fects from
both solutions.
Check the diagram to see how to calculate lime
Calculating Lime
1 Check Soil Test Results
On your results (if using capsuled kits or
results from a local lab) you should see
the recommendations on how much lime
you need to spread to fall within that
desired pH range.
The terminology used would be
something like "80 Ibs. per 1000 sq. ft."
2
Multiply Lime Needed By the Turf
Area
Take the amount of lime based on the soil
test results, and multiply by the turf sq. ft. of
the area you want to cover. For example:
If it were 80 Ibs. per 1,000 sq. ft. such as in the
example, and the turf sq. ft. was 4,000. How much
would you need to spread?
You would first need to divide 1000 sq. ft. from the
4,000.
4,000/1,000 = 4
You would then need to take 4 and multiply it by 80,
because we need 80 Ibs. per 1,000 sq. ft., and
there's 4,000 sq. ft. of turf to cover.
80 Ibs. * 4 = 320 Ibs. of Lime Needed

9. Objective #3 -
Apply Your Fertilizer
Many speak about aeration and seeding, watering, etc. But what about
fertilizer? It needs to be mentioned as o ten as those three because
without it, your grass seedlings can only get so far.
Fertilizer is imperative to maximize seed growth
Each fertilizer is made up of three primary chemicals (among many,
smaller chemicals/minerals): nitrogen, phosphorus, and potash
(potassium). However, when spreading fertilizer in preparation for
seeding in the fall, you need a type focusing primarily of phosphorus.
This is commonly known as "fall fertilizer" or "starter fertilizer".
More info on the next slide on what phosphorus exactly does for the
grass seedlings.
You'll need fertilizer strong in phosphorus
You'll want to have the fertilizer applied and spread beforehand or
during aeration and seeding. In addition, water down the fertilizer once
applied into the ground to release the pellets' chemicals and allow
easier absorption by the soil
Spread the fertilizer either before aeration/seeding, or
in conjunction. Afterwards, water the fertilizer down
into the ground
Equipment/Materials
Fertilizer Spreader (Broadcast or Drop) and Solution

10. The Big Three fertilizer Elements
Generally the most essential
chemical required by grass and
plants. Nitrogen has loads of crucial
functions - from growing new leaves
to defend against pests, to creating
food through photosynthesis. It's also
what gives grass and plants that
green color we all know and love
Nitrogen is overall the most
important element, but when it
comes to seeding, phosphorus is the
star element we need to focus on.
Phosphorus's function is to transfer
energy from one point to another in
the plant, and is critical for root
development
Potash is more of an enhancer and
serves as a catalyst, or add-on, for
grass and plants; however, that
doesn't make it any less important.
Potash does a little bit of everything
and aids nitrogen and phosphorus in
what they do
You know those three letters you see on fertilizer bags? They have an important function, and
describe how much of the chemicals the solution is composed of.
Nitrogen Phosphorus Potash (Potassium)
N P K

11. How to Calculate
Fertilizer
Application Rate
Calculating the amount of fertilizer to use is
very similar to the same method you would use
to calculate lime. In addition, as mentioned in
the previous slide, we want to use a fertilizer
strong in phosphorus
1 Check Soil Test Results
Examine the test results and check the rates
of N-P-K. Nitrogen, at times, will not be
present due to the di iculty of accurately
measuring it. Check how much phosphorus
and potash is necessary
2 Math Baby!
Sometimes the best explanations are when
you give examples
Let's say your soil test results call for 1 Ib. of
nitrogen, 0.5 Ib. of phosphorus, and 0.5 Ib. of
potash. Divide each number by the lowest weight
in this example (0.5, in this case)
1 / 0.5 = 2
0.5 / 0.5 = 1
0.5 / 0.5 = 1
This means you need an
application of a
fertilizer of 2-1-1.
Fertilizer needs to be
the same ratio. You
could use 10-5-5
You need to know the
surface area of your turf
before you spread fertilizer
(as well as grass seed, lime,
etc.). Otherwise, you can end
up spreading too much or too
little. You can use a measuring
wheel such as the one here - or
even use measuring so tware
online
**IMPORTANT

12. Objective #4
Perform Aeration
Aeration is a common way to create an entry point for new grass seed to
enter the soil, ensuring they are within it, and not so much on the
surface.
Aeration plugs 3" holes within your soil to open up
space for grass seed
Sometimes your soil is so tough to break up, that any grass seed spread
in it will have no way of properly entering it. In addition, it opens up
breathing room for your soil so nutrients can be absorbed easier.
Breaks up compacted soil
Even if you don't spread grass seed this year - it would still be bene icial
to aerate your lawn to break up that soil. Of course, doing the two
together in unison is incredibly powerful. You only need to aerate once
a year.
Only need to perform once a year
Equipment/Materials
Aerator

13. Objective #5
Spread Grass Seed
Before you even think about putting grass seed down in the fall season,
you should make sure the type of grass seed you're getting ready to
spread is to grow a cool-seasoned type grass (more info on next slide).
Make sure your grass-type is cool-season
With global warming and temperatures staying hotter in early fall, you
need to be careful and apply the grass seed when temperatures cool
down. Many people will spread grass seed mid-September because it
was optimal 5-10 years ago, but recently that is no longer the case.
Pay attention to the climate and temperatures
That's right - just like fertilizer and lime, there is such thing as
spreading out too much grass seed. Your soil is like an oasis of
nutrients; however, that oasis is limited no matter how much it's fed.
There are only so many resources to go around, and just like how weeds
will kill surrounding grass because it takes nutrients away from them,
grass will do the same and out compete one another.
There is such thing as too much grass seed
Equipment/Materials
Spreader (You can use the same
one as you did for fertilizer)
Grass Seed
Wheat Straw (Optional)

14. Check Your Grass-Type
Check to see where your grass-type falls under the chart. If
it falls under "warm-season", then this isn't the best time
of year and you should wait until the spring
Cool-Season Grasses
Best time of year to seed is
fall
Warm-Season Grasses
Best time of year to seed is
spring

15. Quality
Matters
Spread At Least 3 Weeks
Before Leaves Start Falling
Spread
Wheat Straw
More Important Tips Regarding Grass
Seed
At the end of the day, any legitimate
form of grass seed you purchase will do
the job. But premium quality grass seed
has its perks, such as a higher germination
rate, and has been harvested only using
the best methods.
Earlier I had said to wait until the temperatures
drop and cool down - but there's one problem.
Sometimes when the temperatures actually
start to fall, we're getting dangerously close to
when the leaves start losing their leaves. Make
sure you spread the grass seed weeks before!
Wheat straw is an optional add-on. It helps to
protect areas with little-to-no grass when you
seed from being easily washed by heavy rain, or
eaten by birds. While not an absolute
requirement, it does help on protecting grass
seed applied in those types of areas.
Want Even More Important Tips on Grass Seed?
Click Here and Check Out Our In-Depth Article

16. Objective #6
Optimize Your
Watering Schedule
Watering is the well-understood concept everyone understands, but
isn't taken seriously enough due to its basic premise. You absolutely
need to make sure you put the same amount of focus and energy you do
into seed, fertilizer, etc. as you do into your watering schedule
Watering is often overlooked, but is just as imperative
The initial couple of weeks a ter you successfully broadcast grass seed
are the most crucial. New grass seedlings are like a newborn baby - they
need a lot of attention and even a slight lack of water or moisture can be
enough to dry them out and die
The first 2 weeks after seeding are the most important
Irrigation, especially for larger properties, is irreplaceable.
Unfortunately, many feel that if they don't have an irrigation system,
watering is pointless and too time consuming. While it will de initely
take more time, it's far from pointless. There are many ways to help
alleviate this problem which we will discuss on the next slide
Don't dismiss watering if you don't have irrigation
Equipment/Materials
Watering method (hose,
sprinkler, irrigation, etc.)
Method determines any extra
materials needed

17. More Tips Regarding Your
Watering Schedule
As mentioned in the previous slide, there are
alternatives to irrigation. Truthfully, there isn't any
method to be able to fully replace it; however, there
are still some actions you can take
Alternatives to Irrigation
Oscillating
Sprinkler
Pray For
Rainfall
Watering
Hose
Easiest tool to use
Inexpensive
Has nice add-ons to
enhance functionality
For example:
A water meter allowing
you to track how much
water you're spraying
is an example of one
Can water a large area of
grass if set properly
Can set it and forget it
More expensive than a hose,
but still on the lower cost side
Not an alternative
exactly. but still worth
mentioning
Random, but
incredibly
useful if event occurs
Rainfall is good, but
don't
water your grass in
conjunction with it
Now for the main attraction - it's time to determine when to
water and how o ten
Water Timing and Schedule
Water each area of your grass around 10 minutes, once a day, in the morning or
late afternoon. Initially, the goal is low duration, high frequency
Initial 2 Weeks
Initial Set-Up
Maintaining
Afterwards
Slowing Down
Leaving Fall
Entering Winter
First 2 Weeks
Weeks 3 - 5
Weeks 6-7
Week 8 (Variable)
Week 8 >
Start reducing the frequency, but raising the duration. For example, a good set
would be to water 3-4 times a day, but for 15 minutes in each area this time
Water each area of your grass 1-2 times a week, for 15 minutes during each
session. Don't water your grass if leaves are on top of it, remove them first.
Now that we are leaving fall, your watering should be nearing a stopping point.
Begin securing your water equipment and materials, and any irrigation systems
You should be at a complete stopping point now. Do not water your grass during
winter and the cold temperatures, the freeze could shock your grass and injure it
Still Need More Info? Check Out
Our In-Depth Guide
Let's Do It!

18. Final Thoughts
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