Production and Faults in Cutting, Sewing & Finishing in a Knit Garment Industry

2.1 Literature Survey
2.1.1 Cutting
Cutting is the first step and very critical step for garments production. The wastage during
cutting is an important issue. Different cutting faults can be occurred which should be
minimized.
Fabric lay is cutting by straight knife cutting machine then separated cutting part. In this factory
no marker paper is used, they used pattern direct on the fabric for marking then cut the fabric.
After cutting, the cut pieces are numbered by numbering Machine.
Fig 2.1.1 Cutting machine
2.1.2 Objects ofcutting
The object of cutting is to separate fabric parts from the spread of lay according to the dimension
of the marker for the purpose of garments making according to the pattern pieces.

2.1.3 Cutting Flow Chart
File Receive
↓
Size Set
↓
Pattern correction
↓
Bulk cutting
↓
Print
↓
Sewing Input
2.1.4 Cutting SectionContain
File receive
1. Purchase order sheet
Buyer & seller information, buyer & seller contact, cost & quantity, terms & conditions,
transit etc.
2. Fabric order sheet
Fabric details, approved lab deep, color code etc.
3. Mini marker
Sketch of minimize accessories, sticker, pound sticker, care label etc.
4. Trim card
Finishing accessories, sticker, pound sticker, care label etc.
5. Fabric swatch

Approved fabric swatch by buyer
6. Specification sheet
Its include measurement of various part of a garment.
7. Accessories details
Name of size, color, supplier & quantity of various types of accessories, as like, technical
label, ratio sticker and carton
8. Production sheet
Bar code, selling price, unit cost etc
9. Design sheet
Fabric composition, fabric consumption, color, yarn count, fabric weight, zip confirmation,
first shipment date, wash/finish etc.
Size Set
10. Pattern
From sample section
11. Sample
From sample section
12. Fabric
From store/dyeing section.
Pattern correction
13. Sewing
14. Measurement
15. Report/correction
Bulk cutting
1. Pattern amendment
2. Fabric arrange
3. Fabric relax
4. Spreading
5. Marker ratio
6. Marker
7. Fabric lay
8. Cutting machine

9. Sticker
10. Bundling
11. Reject replaces
Fabric receiving
Fabric requirement for an order is calculated according to the average consumption of the fabric
from the marker. In case of multiple color order, color wise requirement is made. Fabric
department issues fabric to cutting against the fabric requirement.
Fabric relaxation
This process is optional. Specially used for knits fabric. During rolling of fabric it get stretched.
So it is essential to bring the fabric on stable form otherwise garment would shrink after making.
To relax the fabric roll or than is opened and spread and kept for about 24 hours. In real practice
fabric relaxation time is 5-6 hour.
Spreading
Spreading refers smooth lying out of the fabric in superimposed layers of specific length.
Cutting marker paper is laid in the top of the fabric layers. The maximum width of the cutting
Marker constrained by the usable width of fabric. The number of plies depends upon the
thickness of fabric.

2.1.5 MarkerMaking
Marker is a thin paper which contains all the pattern pieces of a garment. It is made just before
cutting and its purpose is to minimize the wastages. The width of a marker is equal to the width
of the fabric and it should not be greater than the width of the fabric i.e. the width of the marker
is kept less than or equal to the width of the Fabric.
The pattern pieces should be placed very carefully in such a way that it will obviously minimize
wastages.
2.1.6 Considerable points before marker making
1. Fabric width (1/2) higher than marker width
2. Fabric length higher than marker length (1” + 1”)
3. The grain line should be parallel to the line of Wales in knit fabrics.
4. All the pattern pieces of garments should be along the same direction when laid on an
asymmetric fabric.
5. Considered garments production planning.
2.1.7 Factorsrelatedto marker efficiency
1. Marker planer
2. Size of garments
3. Marker length
4. Pattern engineering
5. Fabric Characteristics
6. Marker making method
7. Marker width.

2.1.8 Methods ofmarker making
Marker is manufactured after pattern of a garment. The width of the marker is not greater than
fabric width. It is generally with thin paper or news paper. Al he large size pattern to be seated
on a marker paper. Then the places of marker are size pattern to be seated on a marker paper.
Then the places of marker are to be filled up with small pattern. As result we get greater marker
efficiency. It is work of experience and knowledgeable person. Marker can be made in the
following methods:
1. Manual marker making.
2. Computerized marker making.
Fig 2.1.2 Marker paper
2.1.9 MarkerEfficiency
Marker efficiency means the ratio of the all pattern on the marker paper to total area of the
marker and it is expressed as percentage (%) is called marker efficiency. This indicates the fabric
using ability of a marker. So mathematically we can write:
Marker Efficiency = Area of the pattern piece of the marker x100%
Total area of the marker

Factors Affecting MarkerEfficiency
1. Manufacturers of the marker.
2. Size of pattern pieces.
3. Length of the marker.
4. Pattern Engineering.
5. Nature of the fabric.
6. Method of marker making
7. Marker width.
Fig 2.1.3 marker setting on cutting section
Inspection During MarkerMaking
1. To check the marker if it is 1way or 2 way.
2. Grain direction checking.
3. Pattern pieces count in relation with size ratio.
4. Pattern to pattern distance.
5. Proper control of line should be checked.

6. Professional marking
2.1.10 Methods ofCutting
Manual method of fabric cutting
1. Scissor.
2. Straight knife.
3. Band knife.
2.1.11 StraightKnife Cutting Machine
Brand name: KM
Model: MACK-AUV
Country of origin: Japan
Speeds: 300-3600 rpm
Bleed length: 8 inch to 10 inch.
Weight: 15kg
Per hour capacity: 110-160 lay
2.1.12 Machine Parts ofStraight Knife Cutting Machine
1. Base plate
2. Plug
3. Clamp washer
4. Pressure foot
5. Blade
6. Sharpener pulley
7. Pulley spring
8. On/off switch

2.1.13 Features ofStraight Knife Cutting Machine
1. Possible to cut pattern pieces directly from the fabric lays
2. Could be used to cut for higher depth of fabric
3. High cutting speed
4. Sharp and heavy corners can be cut
5. Blade could be sharpened by attaching grinding facilities
6. Blade height 08 to 10 inch.
7. Blade stroke 2.5 to 4.5 cm
8. Special attachment such as sew edge or serrated edge can be provided for heavy fabric
such as canvas or denim.
2.1.14 Sequencein Cutting Room
Store section
↓
Cutting section
↓
Laying by lay pen
↓
Marker by pen according to pattern paper
↓
Cutting by fabric cutter
↓
Stickering
↓
Bundling
↓
Quality inspection
↓
Sewing input
2.1.15 Numbering

In this stage sticker is attached with all part of cutting part for shade matching. The sticker
number maintains cutting number, size number, serial number.
Fig 2.1.4 Numbering Stickering Machine
2.1.16 Bundling
Prepare bundling card according to fabric lay report this card maintain
1. Date
2. Style No
3. Size Number
4. Card Serial
1. Quantity
2. Color
3. Lot Number
Fig 2.1.5 Bundling
2.1.17 Panel Check

a) Oil spot
b) Dirty spot
c) Crease mark
d) Needle mark
e) Foreign yarn
f) Slub
g) Contamination
h) Hole
Fig 2.1.6 Panel checker
2.2 Sewing
This section includes only inspection area. The function of this section isj to make a completed
garment by using all of the cutting components for a particular style of garments.
2.2.1 AccessoriesofSewing Section
1. Sewing thread.
2. Needle.
3. Tread-spun.
4. Care label.
5. Twill tape.

6. Zipper.
7. Snap button.
8. Eye plate.
9. Elastic.
10. Button.
2.2.2 Flow ChartOf Sewing Section
Input from cutting
↓
Initial inspection part by part
↓
Stitching
↓
In-line check/table quality check
↓
End line quality check
↓
Size wise garments count
↓
Reject if can’t be repair
↓
Sewing output
2.2.3 Machines Detailsin Sewing Section
No of machine: 01
Name of the machine: Plain Machine
Brand name: Hikari

No of machine: 02
Name of the machine: Over Lock Machine
Brand name: Siruba
No of machine: 03
Name of the machine: Flat Lock Machine
Brand name: Siruba, Juki
No of machine: 04
Name of the machine: Back Tap Machine
Brand name: Siruba,
No of machine: 05
Name of the machine: Button Attaching Machine
Brand name: Hikari
No of machine: 06
Name of the machine: Button Hole Machine
Brand name: Hikari
No of machine: 07
Name of the machine: Snap Button Attaching Machine
Brand name: GMC
Country of origin: China

No of machine: 08
Name of the machine: Back tape Machine
Brand name: Juki
2.2.4 PlainMachines Activities
1. Label joint.
2. Back tape joint.
3. Back tape top stitch.
4. Pocket joint.
5. Placket box.
6. Zipper joint.
7. Body hem tuck.
8. Pocket top stitch.
9. Ribs tuck.
2.2.5 Flatlock machine activities
1. Neck top stitch.
2. Shoulder top stitch.

3. Arm hole top stitch.
4. Sleeve hem.
5. Body hem.
6. Leg hem.
7. Laid on tape top stitch.
8. Front rise top stitch.
9. Back raise top stitch.
10. Zigzag.
11. Pocket hem.
12. Shoulder to shoulder top binding.
13. Lay on tape joint.
14. False sleeve hem.
15. Cuff top stitch.
16. Top stitch at waist band.
17. Side seam top stitch.
18. Neck piping.
19. Arm whole piping.

20. Back tape joint.
21. Shoulder piping.
2.2.6 OverLock Activities
1. Neck joint.
2. Sleeve joint.
3. Contrast joint.
4. Panel joint.
5. Side seam.
6. In seam.
7. Cuff joint.
8. Back rise.
9. Front rise.
10. Waist joint.
11. Neck piping.
12. Rib hem piping
2.2.7 Sewing Quality Checking Points
1. Skip/Drop/Broken stitch
2. Raw edge
3. Size mistake
4. Uneven hem
5. Uneven cuff
6. Uneven neck

7. Uneven shoulder
8. Uneven placket
9. Uneven pocket
10. Twisting
11. Without care label
12. Open tack
13. Sleeve up-down
14. Stripe up- down
15. Open seam
16. Four point up-down
2.2.8 Sewing Line Quality Checking List
1. Buyer approved sample & measurement sheet check.
2. Sample wise input check.
3. Buyer approved sample wise style check.
4. All machine thread tension check.
5. Style wise print placement check.
6. All process measurement check.
7. All machine oil spot check.
8. Bundle mistake & size mistake check.
9. Buyer approved wise color check.
10. All Machine Stitch Tension Balance Properly.
2.2.9 Sewing Table Quality Check List
1. Style wise garments check.
2. All process measurement check.
3. Front part, back Part, sleeve & thread shading check.
4. Print Placement Check.

5. Main label, care label, size label & care symbol check.
6. Size mistake check.
2.3 Finishing
This section includes process from Ironing to send to buyer. After making, it should be treated by
steam ultimately make the garments attractive as per buyers approved sample.
The process by which unwanted crease and crinkle are removed with the view of increasing
smoothness, brightness and beauty of the garments is called finishing. In the garments industries
it is called ironing. This process plays an important role to grow attractiveness to the buyers.
2.3.1 Objectof Finishing
1. To enhance the suitability of the fabric for end use.
2. To improve appearance and sale appeal for comport and utility.
3. Improve the dimensional stability of the garments.
4. Improve the durability of the garments.
5. Modify the serviceability of the garments.
2.3.2 Work Flow in the Finishing
As mentioned earlier, workflow in the Finishing Department is shown here for reference:
1. Eliminate micro-dust and residual thread from the garment.
2. Press/iron garments as specified by buyer or as per requirements.
3. Fold the garments as required by customer.
4. Fix necessary tickets (Price tickets) or tags (hang tags), etc to the garments at this stage.
5. Insert garments into poly bags.
6. Divide garments as per size and color (assortment).

2.3.3 Flow Chartof Finishing Section
Sucker the fabric by sucker Machine
Ironing
Any spot
Quality inspection spot remover room
Get up check
Measurement check
Size ways
Hand take
Folding
Poly
Ratio check
Assort
Packing /carton
Weight writing at stick
Buyer inspection

2.3.4 List of AccessoriesUsedin Finishing
1. Main Level
2. Size Level
3. Care Level
4. Hang Tag
5. Bar code Sticker
6. Poly Bag
7. Tag Pin
8. Carton
9. Hang Tag String
10. Clip
11. Paper Gum Tape
1. Tissue Paper
2.3. 5 Types of Folding
1. Board folding.
2. Hanger folding.
3. Solid folding.
4. Ratio folding.
Fig 2.3.1 folding

2.3.6 Types of Packing
1. Solid size packing.
2. Ratio packing.
3. Assort packing.
Fig 2.3.2 Packing
2.3.7 Types of Carton
1. Box carton.
1. Plain carton.
2. Master carton.
Fig 2.3.3 Carton
2.3.8 Quality Inspection Point During Finishing
1. Broken stitch.
2. Skip/drop stitch.

3. Side seam open.
4. Down stitch.
5. Length up down.
6. Label mistake.
7. Size mistake.
8. Tuck mistake.
9. Without tuck.
10. Puckering.
11. Shoulder up down.
12. Sleeve up down.
13. Wrong size label joint.
14. Shading.
15. Needle mark.
16. Iron problem.
17. Print spot.
18. Dirty spot.
19. Fabric fault.
20. Fabrics reject.
2.3.9 FinalInspection
It is the last stage of the manufactured garments on behalf of the garment manufacturing
organization, to detect any defective garments before packin
3.1 Data Report on Cutting, Sewing and Finishing for T- Shirt
3.1.1 Data ReportNumber of 01

Fig 3.1.4 Measurement sheet

Fig 3.1.8 Measurement sheet

Fig 3.1.13 Label sheet
3.2 Daily Cutting Productions Report

Fig 3.2.1 Cutting report
3.2.1 DailySewing Production Report

Fig 3.2.2 Sewing report
3.2.2 DailyFinishing Production Report

Fig 3.2.3 Finishing report
3.3 Per Day ProductionReport

Style name Buyer name Order name Per day cutting Per day sewing Per day finishing
T-shirts
Black out
1500702
4400 4100 3800
Best by
199853 4000 3900 3400
New Yorker 712492 4500 4100 3800
Table no 3.3.1 per day production report
3.3.1 Cutting Fault
Cutting fault number Cutting fault name Percentage
01 Wrong cutting 35.29%
02 Incorrect tension of plies 23.52%
03 Numbering mistake 11.76%
04 Pattern defect 5.88%
05 Improper cutting due to faulty knife 5.78%
Table no 3.3.2 Cutting fault
3.3.2 Sewing Fault

Sewing fault number Sewing fault name Percentage
01 Seam Puckering 32.87%
02 Joining Stitch 23.15%
03 Broken Stitch 15.43%
04 Skipped Stitch 13.12%
05 Staggered Stitch 10.8%
06 Unbalanced Stitch 7.71%
Table no 3.3.3 sewing fault
3.3.3 Finishing Fault
The defects which are occurred in finishing process are enlisted below:
1. Unwanted marks on fabric
2. Decolorized patch on fabric
3. Pin holes
4. Bowing
5. Pilling
6. Water Spots
7. Cuts or Nicks
8. Seam Tears
9. Soil

4.1 Discussionofproduction report (table no 3.3.1)
The thesis topics of our work was cutting, sewing and finishing of garment. The name of the
departments itself explains that what are the main functions of these departments. In the table
production report for cutting, sewing & finishing has been discussed for three different style of
T- shirt. It is seen that cutting, sewing & finishing data has been varied due to the variation of
style of the T- shirt. Style variation means sleeve length variation, measurement variation, design
variation etc. Sometimes cutting faults happened due to marker and pattern faults as well
4.2 Discussionofcutting fault (table no 3.3.2)
Sewing is a vital process to make quality product in garments industry. Sewing faults are very
much common error in the line. Due to unskilled operators and helpers as well as supervisors
fault. Sometimes due to improper line balancing sewing faults severely happened in garments
line.In the table 3.3.2 it is seen that there are various types of cutting faults. Among all the faults
wrong cutting is the major problem and the percentage is so high i.e. 35.29%. On the other hand
improper cutting due to the faulty knife is the minor problem and the percentage is also less i.e.
5.78%. So it can be said that unskilled worker and wrong measurement is responsible for wrong
cutting. To remove this type of fault skilled worker and correct measurement is must.
4.3 Discussionofsewing fault (table no 3.3.3)
In the table 3.3.3 it is seen that there are various types of sewing faults such as unbalanced stitch,
staggered stitch, seam pucker etc. Among all the faults seam puckering faults is the major fault
and the percentage is so high i.e. 32.87%. On the other hand unbalanced stitch fault is not so
prominent and the percentage is also less i.e. 7.71%. Seam puckering is the shrinkage appearance
in the seam line. When the number of stitch per unit length is increased shrinkage problem is
seen. To remove this type of problem skilled worker, correct machine set up as well as perfect
material handling is mandatory.

Production and Faults in Cutting, Sewing & Finishing in a Knit Garment Industry

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