Deodorant & Antiperspirant: Definition, properties of deodorant & antiperspirant, difference between deodorant & antiperspirant, components of sweat, odour & perspiration, deodorant action, deodorants/ingredients, formulation forms, simple formulation, evaluation of deodorant, antiperspirant action, formulation of antiperspirant sticks, active ingredients, quality control, evaluation of antiperspirant, reasons for choosing deodorant over antiperspirant. Perfume: Definition, history, notes of perfume, classification, aromatic sources, manufacturing process, composition of perfume, ingredient causing allergic reaction, psychology of using perfume. Nail-polish: Definition, facts about nail polish, anatomy of nail, preparation of nail-polish, manufacturing process, simple formula, types of nail polish, ideal character, evaluation parameters, packaging, labelling, advantages, disadvantages.

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Gono Bishwabidyalay
Nolam, Saver, Dhaka
8th
Semester
Assignment on: Industrial Pharmacy &
Pharmaceutical Technology-IV (Pharm 4801)
Assignment topic: Deodorant & Antiperspirant,
Perfume, Nail-polish.
Submitted To:
Dr. Pijush Kumar Paul
Assistant Professor
Department of Pharmacy
Gono Bishwabidyalay
Submitted By:
Md. Nazmul Islam Tanmoy
Class Roll: 74
Exam Roll: 2064
Batch: 32nd
Department of pharmacy, GB.
Submission date: 28th
June 2021

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Index
Si.
No.
Name of the Topic Contents Page
No.
01 Deodorant &
Antiperspirant
Definition, properties of deodorant &
antiperspirant, difference between deodorant
& antiperspirant, components of sweat, odor
& perspiration, deodorant action,
deodorants/ingredients, formulation forms,
simple formulation, evaluation of deodorant,
antiperspirant action, formulation of
antiperspirant sticks, active ingredients,
quality control, evaluation of antiperspirant,
reasons for choosing deodorant over
antiperspirant.
03-08
02 Perfume Definition, history, notes of perfume,
classification, aromatic sources,
manufacturing process, composition of
perfume, ingredient causing allergic reaction,
psychology of using perfume.
08-14
03 Nail-polish Definition, facts about nail polish, anatomy
of nail, preparation of nail-polish,
manufacturing process, simple formula,
types of nail polish, ideal character,
evaluation parameters, packaging, labelling,
advantages, disadvantages.
14-20

3. 3
Deodorant & Antiperspirant
• A deodorant is a product applied to the body to prevent body odor caused by the bacterial
breakdown of perspiration in armpits, feet, and other areas of the body and do not reduce
wetness.
• A subgroup of deodorant, antiperspirant affects odor as well as prevent sweating by
affecting sweat glands.
Properties of deodorant and antiperspirant
• It should not be irritant to the skin.
• It should not deteriorate clothing.
• It should be safe and nontoxic.
• Easy to use and adhere well on skin.
• Mask body odor with perfume.
• Absorb perspiration or inhibit the activity of gram+ ve bacteria, which cause body
malodor.
Difference between Deodorants and Antiperspirants:
Deodorants Antiperspirants
Has a topical effect (cosmetics) Has a therapeutic effect (OTC)
Dose not reduce sweat amount Reduce amount of sweat secretion
Contain absorbent, fragrance and germicide contain absorbent, fragrance, germicide and
astringent
Deodorant is not Antiperspirants Antiperspirants is deodorant
Components of Sweat:
Ethnicity: hypotonic liquid form of blood plasma. Acidic substance which is the degree of
acidity is between 4 and 6. It consists mainly of 99% water and some mineral salts, which are
sodium chloride, potassium, and bicarbonate.
It also contains inorganic compounds such as lactic acid, urea, and ammonia which secreted by
sweat glands.
Odor & Perspiration:
Odour Sebaceous glands
Sweat glands

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Serum = Cholesterol, its esters, palmitic, stearic acid and their esters
Hyper-hydrolysis = Intense activity of eccrine (25000 in each auxiliary vault) = 12 grams of
sweat per hour (So injurious)
Sweat is sterile and odorless:
But by the action of bacteria of primarily the
apocrine sweat which is rich in organic
material (ideal substrate for bacterial growth)
malodor form.
Odor:
Numerous odors substances are responsible:
• decomposition of the proteins
• lower fatty acids, steroids and lactones
(have no smell, but they fix the odor
• combined action of food
• physical and psychological conditions
• individual property (dog detection)
Perspiration
Elimination
of lactic acid
Regulation of body temperature
Sweat glands
2380000 (body surface)
Endocrine glands
(All over the body)
Apocrine glands
(localized-post pubertal)

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Method to reduce or control auxiliary
odor:
1. Reduce apocrine sweating
2. Remove the secretions
3. Impede bacterial growth
4. Absorb body odor
Deodorant Action:
• According to Gomes, Drucker & liley, infections caused by anaerotic bacteria often
produce strong odor due to production of short chain fatty acids, sulfur compounds,
ammonia & polamines.
• Chlorine through its lethal activity on micro-organism & oxidative action on dead tissue
& bacterial products, eliminate the fetid odor produced by necrosis.
Deodorants/ Ingredients:
Antibacterial agents:
-benzethonium chloride
-chlorhexidine acetate
-trichloro-hydroxy diphenyl ether (Triclosan)
Formulation forms:
• Aerosols
• Sticks
• Creams
• Roll-On
• Soaps

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Simple Formulation:
Evaluation of Deodorants:
• Both in vivo and in vitro methods are available. But In vitro techniques do not provide a
reliable indicator of clinical effectiveness.
• The two principal methods for the in vivo evaluation of deodorant efficacy are-
1. Determination of the effect of treatment on the skin microflora;
2. Olfactory assessment of the effects on skin odors.
• In the other method, olfactory assessment of the effect of deodorants on body odors may
be performed by direct armpit sniffing or by indirect sniffing of pads.
Antiperspirant Action:
Active ingredient will diffuse into the
sweat & apocrine glands & insoluble
hydroxide gel will be produced in sweat
pores & thus physically blocking the
release of secretory products by
constricting the opening of the sweat gland
ducts.
Formulation of Antiperspirant
sticks:
Antiperspirant sticks consist of
• The active drug ingredients that control perspiration;
• Gelling agents that form the stick matrix; and
• Other ingredients, such as fragrance or colorants, that make the product aesthetically
pleasing.
Deodorant
Ingredients Quantity
Stearic acid 14.0 ml
Bees-wax 2.0 gm
Liquid paraffin 1.0 ml
Tween 80 5.0 ml
Al-chlorhydrate 12.0 ml
Cetrimide 1.0 gm
Water to 100 ml
Deodorant stick
Ingredients Quantity
Stearic acid 3.4 ml
Sodium hydroxide 0.6 gm
D.water 1.0 ml
Glycerol 7.5 ml
Cetrimide 0.75 gm
Ethanol 75 ml

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Active ingredients:
• The FDA publishes an Over the Counter (OTC) Drug monograph that lists which
ingredients are approved for use
• The ingredients on this list are limited to:
- natural antimicrobial agents: aluminum chlorhydrate, aluminumdichlorhydrate
- aluminum chloride (must be non-aerosol) and
- aluminum zirconium complexes.
• of these compounds, the most commonly used is aluminum zirconiumtetrachlorohydrex
glycine.
• Most of these materials are supplied as powders, and they are typically used at levels of
8-25%based on the weight of the finished product.
Alcohol:
• Alcohol is an ingredient present in some roll-ons, aerosols and gels.
• The active ingredients of antiperspirants and deodorants are often dissolved in alcohol
because it dries quickly once applied to the skin and gives an immediate sense of
coolness.
Gelling Agent:
• The bulk of the formulation consists of waxy or fatty materials that are gelled to form a
solid stick.
• Common examples include:
- stearyl alcohol
- cetyl alcohol
- hydrogenated castor oil, and glyceryl stearate.
• These waxy materials are blended with lubricating oils and emollients such as
cyclomethicone,
• In addition, talc, starches, or other powders may be added to control stick consistency and
to give the product a dry feel.
Other Ingredients:
• Fragrance and colorants may be added to the formula to improve its odour or appearance.
• Some additives as calcium pantothenate may be added, Calcium pantothenate in
antiperspirants is claimed to soothe irritated skin and to promote wound healing, which
often occurs with underarm shaving.
Quality control:
Safety testing:
- Evaluation of irritation
- Evaluation of contact sensitization
- Evaluation of photodermatitis
- Evaluation of toxicity

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Efficacy testing:
- A product must reduce the amount of perspiration by at least 20% to allow a product to
be labeled as an antiperspirant.
Evaluation of Antiperspirant:
• Antiperspirants aim to bring about a temporary decrease in sweat production in the
axillae.
• The most widely used procedure for efficacy testing of antiperspirants is a gravimetric
method which involves the collection and weighing of axillary sweat under controlled
conditions.
Choosing Deodorant over Antiperspirant:
• Deodorants work by neutralizing the smell of the sweat and by antiseptic action against
bacteria.
• Deodorants are preferable because they don't interfere with sweating, a natural cooling
process.
• Antiperspirants, because of their ability to reduce perspiration and thus diminish the
medium that is a factor in the development of axillary odour, can also claim to be a
deodorant.
However, because a deodorant product only reduces the body odour and does not reduce
perspiration it can only be labeled as a deodorant.
Perfume
• Perfume is a mixture of fragrant essential oils or aromatic
compounds, fixatives and solvents used to give the human
body, animal, food objects and living spaces a pleasant scent.
• It has been used for centuries by mankind.
• Perfumes are supposed to release a continuous pleasant
fragrance that will provide a long-lasting feeling
of freshness.
• Initially it was only used for religious purpose but
now it has become an ornament of sophistication
for both men and women.

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History of perfume:
• The Egyptians were the first who used perfume for personal
enjoyment, but the production of perfume was reserved for the
priests and they used it in religious purpose.
• The Greek used an extraordinary amount of perfume and for each
part of the body they used a different fragrance for hygiene and
cult of the body.
• The history of the Arabs is the fusion of art and science. Two talented
Arabian chemists Jābir ibn Hayyān and Al-Kindi established the perfume industry.
• The Romans used perfume as a part of luxury.
• The oldest perfumery was discovered on the island of Cyprus 4,000 years ago indicating
that perfume manufacturing was on an industrial scale.
• The Hungarians introduced the first modern perfume, made of scented oils blended in an
alcohol solution at the command of Queen Elizabeth of Hungary.
• France is the birthplace of modern perfumery. France provided to grow aromatic plants
for perfume industry with raw materials. Even today, France remains the center of the
European perfume design and trade.
• England and Germany also contributed a lot in modernization of perfumery.
Notes in Perfume:
• Perfume is described in a musical metaphor as having three sets of notes, making the
harmonious scent accord.
• These notes are created carefully with knowledge of the evaporation process of the
perfume.
The three notes are:
a. Top notes
b. Middle notes
c. Base notes
Each of these levels, however, has its own primary
purpose.

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a) Top notes:
They are generally the lightest of all notes and
recognized immediately after application. Top
notes consist of small, light molecules with high
volatility that evaporate quickly.
Common fragrances of top notes include citrus
(lemon, orange zest), light fruits (grape, berries)
and herbs (clary sage, lavender).
b) Middle Notes:
The middle notes, or the heart notes, make an
appearance once the top notes evaporate. The
middle note compounds form the "heart" or main
body of a perfume and act to mask the often-unpleasant initial impression of base notes, which
become more pleasant with time.
Common fragrances of middle notes include rose, lemon, ylang ylang, lavender, nutmeg and
jasmine.
c) Base notes:
Base notes or bottom or dry notes appear while middle notes are fading. The base and middle
notes together are the main theme of a perfume. Base notes bring depth and solidity to a
perfume.
Common fragrances of base notes include sandalwood, vanilla, amber and musk.
Classification of perfumes:
• Perfumes are classified into five major groups on the basis of concentration of fragrance
and duration of lasting:
Class
% of aromatic
compound Duration (hours)
Parfume(perfume) 20-30 6-8
Eau de parfume 15-20 4-5
Eau de toilette 5-15 2-3
Eau de cologne 2-4 2
Eau fraiche 1-3 2

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• Perfumes can further be classified into following classes:
1. Bright floral: Fragrance from one or several flowers. E.g. Estee lauder’s
Beautiful
2. Green: Fragrance from cut grass or leaf. E.g. Calvin Klein’s Eternity
3. Aquatic: A clean smell reminiscent of ocean. E.g. Davidoff Cool Water
4. Citrus: Has freshening effect. E.g. Faberge Brut
5. Fruity: Aromas of fruits other than citrus. E.g. Ginestet Botrytis
6. Gourmand: Scent with edible or desert like qualities. E.g. Thierry Mugler’s
Angel.
Aromatic sources:
Fragrances used in perfume can be found from following sources:
a) Plant Source:
Barks, flowers, blossoms, fruits, resin, roots, seeds, woods etc.
b) Animal Source:
Musk, civet, honeycomb etc.
c) Synthetic Source:
Calone, synthetic terpenes etc.

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Manufacturing Process:
Perfumes can be manufactured by following steps:
i. Collection
ii. Extraction
iii. Blending
iv. Aging.
I. Collection:
Before manufacturing process begins the sources of suitable fragrances are collected in the
manufacturing center.
II. Extraction:
Oils are extracted from plants and other substances by several methods like:
a. Steam distillation:
steam is passed through plant materials held in a still, whereby the essential oil turns to gas. This
gas is then passed through tubes, cooled, liquefied and collected.
b. Solvent extraction:
The flower parts are dissolved in benzene or petrolatum that retains the fragrance of the flower.
Alcohol is used to dissolve the fragrance and heated to obtain it after evaporation of alcohol.
c. Enfleurage:
Flowers are kept in glass sheet with grease that absorb the fragrance of flowers.
d. Expression:
The citrus fruits or plants are manually or mechanically pressed until all the oil is squeezed out.
III. Blending:
Once the perfume oils are collected, they are ready to be blended together according to a formula
determined by a master in the field, known as a "nose.”
After the scent has been created, it is mixed with alcohol. Most full perfumes are made of about
10-20% perfume oils dissolved in alcohol and a trace of water.
IV. Aging:
Fine perfume is often aged for several months or even years after blending to ensure that the
correct scent has been achieved.

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Composition of perfume:
Perfumes are mainly composed of –
1. Essential oils:
Derived from natural aromatic plant extracts and/or synthetic aromatic chemicals. E.g. limonene,
linalool, geraniol, citral etc.
2. Fixatives:
Natural or synthetic substances used to reduce the evaporation rate. E.g. benzyl benzoate, benzyl
alcohol etc.
3. Solvents:
The liquid in which the perfume oil is dissolved in is usually 98% ethanol and 2% water.
Alcohol allows fragrance to spread along with it and does not permit microbial growth in the
perfume.
Ingredients causing allergic reaction:
Ingredients Use Side effects
Sandal wood Fragrance Hypersensitivity
Limonene Slightly astringent smell Irritates the skin
Benzyl alcohol Fixative Skin irritant causing
redness and pain
Benzyl benzoate Fixative; sweet balsamic
odor
Skin irritation likeblister,
itching, scaling, redness.
Acetone Solvent Inhalation cause dryness of
mouth & throat
Ethyl acetate
Solvent Defatting effect on skin &
may cause drying &
cracking
Psychology of using perfume:
• When we inhale the odorant molecules of a perfume, it not only creates the sensation of
odor but also creates emotions and experiences associated with it. For instance, we focus
on the pleasant childhood memories associated with the smell of vanilla.
• Stimulation of hippocampus causes secretion of growth hormone, sex hormone and
neurotransmitters.

14. 14
• Another reason behind perfume use is to increase one’s attractiveness in the eyes of other
people.
• We wear a perfume which best expresses our individuality, our tastes and our character.
• Perfume using may become a habit and without it a person may feel incomplete.
Other reasons of using perfume:
• To mask body mal odor
• To complement one’s mood and please one’s senses
• Helps to get rid of anxiety and depression
• To deepen spirituality
• To soothe someone
• For religious purpose
• To be fresh and chilled all day long
Nail Polish
Nail polish (also known as nail varnish) is a lacquer that can be
applied to the human fingernails or toenails to decorate and
protect the nail plates.
The formulation has been revised repeatedly to enhance its
decorative effects and to suppress cracking or flaking.
Facts about Nail-Polish
▪ Nail polish originated in China as early as 3000 BC.
▪ Originally nail polish was invented from car paint in 1916.
▪ There are 311 colors of nail polish right now available in market.
▪ The world most expensive nail polish name is Azature’s black diamond nail polish,which
cost $250,000 and contain 267 carats of black diamond.
▪ In 2012, nail polish sales reached $768 million. (7680 lakhs)
▪ Neon coloured nail polish is actually illegal.
▪ Painting nails is prohibited on some airplanes.
Anatomy of Nail:
• A nail is a horn-like envelope covering the tips of the fingers and toes in most primates
and a few other mammals.
• Fingernails and toenails are made of a tough protective protein called keratin.

15. 15
1. Lunula (small moon) is the visible part of the matrix, the whitish crescent-
shaped base of the visible nail.
2. Free margin-is the anterior margin of the nail plate corresponding to the
abrasive or cutting edge of the nail.
3. Eponychium-is a small band of living cells (epithelium) that extends from
the posterior nail wall onto the base of the nail.
4. Nail plate-is the hard part of the nail, made of translucent keratin protein.
5. Matrix-also called keratogenous membrane and nail matrix. It is the part of
the nail bed that contains nerves, lymph and blood-vessels. It is responsible for producing
cells that become the nail plate.
6. Nail bed-is the skin beneath the nail plate. It is made of two types of tissues: the deeper
dermis and epidermis.
7. Nail wall-is the cutaneous fold overlapping the sides and proximal end of the nail.
Preparation of NAIL-POLISH:
Raw materials
1. FILM-FORMERS:
• A film-former is defined as the agent that forms the nonstick, flexible, and glossy
coat adhering to the surface of the nail after the solvents have evaporated.
• Polymers are the first choice as they have shown properties, such as film
toughness, gloss, and so forth without the defects of stickiness or dullness.
• Nowadays cellulose nitrate, better known as nitrocellulose, is widely used in nail
polish formulations, as it gives an excellent film transparency. It has a very low
solvent retention and a quick dry-time. The film obtained is hard and exhibits
good water and abrasion resistance.
• Nitrocellulose (NC) is an ester and is obtained by reaction of an acid with an
alcohol. The acid is a mixture of nitric and sulfuric acid; the alcohol is one of the
several hydroxy groups on the cellulose heterocycles. The simplified reaction is:
ROH + HN03 → RONO2 + H20

16. 16
2. PLASTICIZERS:
• Nitrocellulose forms a very bright and transparent film,
but it is very tough and can be brittle. The nail plate is
flexible and grows, and the film must adapt to this
flexible, moving, and changing surface.
• The nail polish formulator has to include components
that will make the film more flexible: the plasticizers.
• They must remain in the film; hence they have a very high
boiling point. They must be compatible with the solvents
and other components.
E.g. Dibutyl phthalate, Camphor.
3. RESINS:
• Any polymer that remains in the dry film and improves
film properties (film formation, evaporation of solvents,
hardness, flexibility, resistance to abrasion, gloss, etc.) is
commonly identified as a resin.
• The natural resins are benzoin, dewaxed dammar gum.
• Nowadays most commonly used families of resins are aryl
sulfonamide resins, acrylic copolymers, vinyl esters, vinyl
acetates/vinyl chloride copolymers, and polyesters.
4. THICKENING AGENTS:
• Thickening agents are added to maintain the sparkling
particles in suspension while in the bottle.
E.g. Stearalkonium hectorite.
• Thickening agents exhibit thixotropy, their solutions are
viscous when still but free flowing when agitated.
• This duality is convenient for easily applying the freshly
shaken mixture to give a film that quickly rigidifies
5. PIGMENTS:
• The DCMA (Dry Color Manufacturers Association) defines a pigment as a colored
particulate organic or inorganic solid that is usually insoluble and unaffected by, the
vehicle or substance into which it is incorporated.
• pigments are divided into three categories:
1) mineral pigments or inorganic pigments,
e.g. iron oxides
2) organic pigments, e.g. barium sulfate
3)nacreous pigments e.g. coated mica.
Camphor
Dibutyl phthalate
Vinyl esters
Stearalkonium hectorite

17. 17
6. SOLVENTS:
• Solvents are liquids that allow a nail
polish to flow and make it applicable.
• They also play a primary role in the dry-
time of the film and in the
characteristics of the dry film.
• The first criteria that these products
must meet is innocuousness.
• All the solvents used in modern nail
polishes belong to one of the categories
of esters (ethyl acetate, butyl acetate,
etc.), aromatics (toluene, xylene, etc.),
alcohols (ethyl alcohol, butyl alcohol,
etc.) or silicones.
Manufacturing Process:
Ethyl acetate
Toluene

18. 18
Simple Formula:
No. Ingredients Quantity (%) Use
1 Nitrocellulose (30% IPA) 13.0 Film former
2 Formaldehyde resin 11.0 To make film adhere
3 Dibutyl phthalate 5.0 Plasticizer
4 Ethyl acetate 22.0 Solvent
5 Butyl acetate 41.0 Solvent
6 Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) 6.0 Solvent
7 Stearalkonium hectorite 2.0 Thickening agent
Types of Nail-Polish:
There are mainly 5 types of nail polishes right now available in the market:
1. Base coat
2. Top coat
3. Gel
4. Matte
5. Shellac
1. Base coat- This type of nail polish is a clear, milky-colored, or opaque pink polish
formula that is used specifically before applying nail polish to the nail. The purpose of it
is to strengthen nails, restore moisture to the nail, and/or help polish adhere to the nail.
2. Top coat- This type of nail polish is a clear colored polish formula that is used
specifically after applying nail polish to the nail. It gives the polish a more finished and
desired look and may help to keep the polish on for longer.
3. Gel- Gel polish is a long-lasting variety of nail polish made up of a type of methacrylate
polymer. While regular nail polish formulas typically last two to seven days without
chipping, gel polish can last as long as two weeks with proper application and home
care. Gel polish can be more difficult to remove than regular nail polish.
4. Matte- Matte polish is like regular polish, but has a purposely dull finish rather than a
shine. Matte top coat is most useful for painting over any dry base color, giving it a
different appearance.
5. Shellac- Shellac is a type of nail polish similar to Gel but can last up to two weeks,
invented by the Creative Nail Design (CND) Company.
Ideal characteristics of a nail polish:
1) It should have proper viscosity wetting and flow properties.
2) It should have uniform color.

19. 19
3) It should have good gloss and good adhesive properties.
4) It should have sufficient flexibility so that it does not crack or
become brittle.
5) It should have sufficient hard surface which is resistant to
impact and scratch.
6) It should have reasonable drying time (1-2 minutes) without
developing bloom.
Evaluation parameters:
❖ Colour matching
❖ Drying rate
❖ Non-volatile content
❖ Smoothness
❖ Gloss
❖ Hardness
❖ Application properties
❖ Abrasion resistance
❖ Adhesion
❖ Water resistance
❖ Viscosity
❖ Stability
Packaging:
• Glass bottles with a brush applicator is the most conventional
container which is used for the packaging of nail lacquers.
The capacity varies from 8ml to 18ml.
• The applicator consists of an air-tight aluminum canister with an
acrylic fiber tip or nib which applies polish directly to nails.
Labelling:

20. 20
Advantages:
▪ Prevent nail from scratches
▪ Improve strength of nails
Disadvantages
▪ Cause cancer (majorly skin cancer)
▪ Nails become weak and brittle
▪ With continuous use nail not receive natural light
so effect the growth of it
▪ Gaps develop between polished nails and cuticles
▪ Long time uses cause yellow nails
▪ Not easily removable without use of nail lacquer remover
References:
https://www.slideshare.net/NajirRuman/deodorant-antiperspirant
http://ec.europa.eu/health/scientific_committees/opinions_layman/perfume-
allergies/en/index.htm#4
Websites:
www.Google.com
www.wikipedia.com
www.slideshare.com