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Aesthetics International Academy (Singapore)
CIDESCO International Diploma (PG)
Magischer Baum (aka) Tha-na-ka
Student: Myat Myintzu Maung Maung
Candidate No: 16151.05
Intake: November 2016
1
Abstract
The author was grew up in the country called Burma (Myanmar), which is the only
country around the world, can be seen people along the street, either adults,
children or old, male or female, poor or rich, wearing the natural sunblock called
“THA-NA-KHA” on their faces and bodies. Burma or Myanmar was located in the
southern East Asia and it located close to the equator, the sun’s exposure is
intense and no secret that it is hot in Myanmar. To protect the skin from the harsh
environment, the Burmese uncovered Tha-na-ka as a natural and efficient
alternative to sunblock.
Although one third of my age wandering around in the engineering field, beauty
never drift away from my interest. As well as the author was being grown up in the
middle-income family, it was not easy to maintain the skincare routine with high-
end brand products. Tha-na-ka is always the answer in my younger days while to
maintain the skin from very severe weather. The fragrance of Tha-na-ka always
reminds me of the memories with the loved ones. I had decided to do Tha-na-ka as
my topic with the chance given because it is something that playing essential
cosmetics of my everyday life since young.
When I started this thesis, I discovered more benefits linked with Tha-na-ka than I
ever imagined. I will try my level best to bring forward my findings as well as my
own creative twists for future used.
2
Disclaimer
I hereby declare that this thesis is my own work and contains no material, which
has been accepted for the award of any diploma from any tertiary institution. To the
best of my knowledge and belief, this thesis contains no material previously written
or published by another person, except where due reference is made in the text.
Signed:
MYAT MYINTZU MAUNG MAUNG
26th
July 2016
3
Acknowledgement
I would like to thank the principle and all the teachers from AES for their guidance
and encouragement, as well as the management team for their supports
throughout my studies. Sharing their knowledge & experiences motivate me in one-
way to another for future endeavors. And those have been essential during the
research and writing of this thesis.
I am heartily thankful to all of my colleagues and team whom always support and
understand the situation to pursue my dream and goal during my part time and full
time study.
Finally, none of my studies would have been possible without the continuous
support and courage from my family and friends. Last but not least, to God, who
made all things possible and real.
4
Table of Contents
Abstract ...................................................................................................................1
Disclaimer................................................................................................................2
Acknowledgement ..................................................................................................3
Table of Contents....................................................................................................4
List of Figures .........................................................................................................6
Chapter 1 Background and Significance..............................................................8
1.1 Introduction ...............................................................................................................8
1.2 Background of Myanmar..........................................................................................8
1.3 History of Tha-na-ka ...............................................................................................10
1.4 Tha-na-ka .................................................................................................................11
1.5 Objectives of the Thesis.........................................................................................13
1.6 Conclusion Remarks ..............................................................................................13
Chapter 2 Literature review..................................................................................15
2.1 Introduction .............................................................................................................15
2.2 Sources of Literature..............................................................................................15
2.3 Literature review on active ingredients of Tha-na-ka..........................................15
2.3.1 Coumarin............................................................................................................15
2.3.2 Marmesin ...........................................................................................................16
2.4 Literature review on Malaria ..................................................................................17
Chapter 3 Healing Power of Tha-na-ka ...............................................................18
3.1 Coumarin .................................................................................................................18
3.2 Marmesin .................................................................................................................18
3.3 Vitamin E..................................................................................................................19
3.4 Particles ...................................................................................................................19
3.5 Tyrosinase inhibitors..............................................................................................19
3.6 Contra-indications of the Tha-na-ka .....................................................................20
3.7 Contra-actions of Tha-na-ka ..................................................................................21
3.8 Tha-na-ka in the Market..........................................................................................21
3.8.1 Raw Tha-na-ka logs...........................................................................................21
3.8.2 Pre-made paste..................................................................................................21
3.8.3 Tha-na-ka powder..............................................................................................22
3.8.4 Tha-na-ka skin care product series....................................................................23
3.8.5 Tha-na-ka soap..................................................................................................23
5
Chapter 4 Tha-na-ka & Beauty Industry..............................................................25
4.1 Tha-na-ka Paste Extraction....................................................................................25
4.1.1 Preparation before Extraction ............................................................................25
4.1.2 Tha-na-ka Extraction..........................................................................................31
4.2 Tha-na-ka Therapy ..................................................................................................33
4.2.1 Tha-na-ka as an Exfoliator.................................................................................33
4.2.2 Tha-na-ka combined with Lemon and oat meal scrub .......................................34
4.2.3 Inspiring Tha-na-ka Face Mask..........................................................................36
4.2.4 Nourishing Tha-na-ka Face Mask......................................................................36
4.2.5 Refreshing Tha-na-ka Face Mask......................................................................37
4.2.6 Tha-na-ka as a permanent hair removal............................................................37
4.2.7 Tha-na-ka as a mosquito repellent lotion...........................................................38
Conclusion ............................................................................................................39
Bibliography..........................................................................................................40
6
List of Figures
Figure 1 Map of Myanmar.........................................................................................8	
  
Figure 2 Gemstones .................................................................................................9	
  
Figure 3 Myanmar Jade............................................................................................9	
  
Figure 4 A girl with Tha-na-ka.................................................................................10	
  
Figure 5 Tha-na-ka Trees .......................................................................................11	
  
Figure 6 Tha-na-ka shop in the Market...................................................................12	
  
Figure 7 Extract out the Tha-na-ka Paste in Progress............................................12	
  
Figure 8 Art Creation with Tha-na-ka on Face........................................................13	
  
Figure 9 Chemical Structure of Coumarin...............................................................16	
  
Figure 10 Chemical Structure of Marmesin ............................................................16	
  
Figure 11 How UV rays penetrate into the Skin......................................................18	
  
Figure 12 Benefits of Vitamin E to Facial Skin........................................................19	
  
Figure 13 Melanin Biosynthesis..............................................................................20	
  
Figure 14 Pre-cut Tha-na-ka Chunk at Vendor shop..............................................21	
  
Figure 15 Different Varieties of Tha-na-ka Types in the Market .............................22	
  
Figure 16 Argo Naturals 100% Pure Tha-na-ka Powder ........................................22	
  
Figure 17 Bio-Essence Tha-na-ka White Series.....................................................23	
  
Figure 18 De Leaf Tha-na-ka Products...................................................................24	
  
Figure 19 Before Tha-na-ka Extraction...................................................................25	
  
Figure 20 Tha-na-ka log with brush ........................................................................26	
  
Figure 21 Tha-na-ka log cleansing steps................................................................26	
  
Figure 22 Cleansing Tha-na-ka log with anti bacterial soap water .........................27	
  
Figure 23 Overnight soaking processes .................................................................27	
  
Figure 24 Draining out the soapy water..................................................................27	
  
7
Figure 25 Tha-na-ka final cleansing........................................................................28	
  
Figure 26 Log for paste extraction ..........................................................................28	
  
Figure 27 Stone slab cleansing step one................................................................29	
  
Figure 28 Stone slab cleansing step two ................................................................29	
  
Figure 29 Stone slab cleansing step by step ..........................................................30	
  
Figure 30 Ready for Tha-na-ka Paste extraction....................................................30	
  
Figure 31 Tha-na-ka extraction step 1....................................................................31	
  
Figure 32 Tha-na-ka paste extraction step two.......................................................31	
  
Figure 33 Tha-na-ka paste......................................................................................32	
  
Figure 34 Tha-na-ka paste from slab......................................................................32	
  
Figure 35 Tha-na-ka paste application ...................................................................33	
  
Figure 36 Honey & Milk...........................................................................................33	
  
Figure 37 Tha-na-ka as Exfoliator...........................................................................34	
  
Figure 38 DIY scrub preparations...........................................................................35	
  
Figure 39 DIY Exfoliation ........................................................................................35	
  
8
Chapter 1 Background and Significance
1.1 Introduction
This chapter presents the profile of Myanmar or Burma, its strong history of rich in
natural resources.
The thesis will be focused to explore the skin benefits from “Tha-na-ka”. Basic
illustrations and diagrams will help the reader to understand what is “Tha-na-ka”
and why it was widely used in the Asian. A through discussion of “Tha-na-ka”
history, manufacturing process, thesis background and structure of thesis will be
described further in this chapter.
1.2 Background of Myanmar
The country’s official full name is the “Republic of the Union of Myanmar” but it was
popularly known as either “Burma” or “Myanmar”. The name of Burma had been
used since 18th
century. In 1989, military government officially changed to
Myanmar. (Wiki, 2016).
Figure 1 Map of Myanmar
9
Myanmar is round about 680,000 square kilometer in size and total population is 51
millions. It was bordered in between Bangladesh, Laos, Thailand, Tibet and
Yunnan. Myanmar is divided into seven states and seven divisions.
Figure 2 Gemstones
Myanmar produces precious stones such as rubies, sapphires, pearls, gold, and
jade. Aside from the gems, some other valuable resources such as teak, rubber,
metals natural oil and gas can be found generously in Myanmar.
Figure 3 Myanmar Jade
The signature choice of cosmetic in Myanmar called Tha-na-ka; it is a yellowish-
white paste that made from ground bark and commonly applied it to the face and
body. The most notable sight for tourists is not only the exotic landscapes or
temples but also the yellowish paste “Tha-na-ka” that can be found painted on the
faces of Burmese adults, children and old.
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Figure 4 A girl with Tha-na-ka
1.3 History of Tha-na-ka
It is believed that a legendary queen of Beikthano, whose envy-inducing skin was
attributed to using the paste, made Tha-na-ka use popular. However, the first
written reference of its use in Burma is found in a 14th
century poem written by a
acquaintance of King Razadarit, who is famous for one of Burma’s greatest
monarchs. (Reis, 2016).
Legend has it that Tha-na-ka from Shin-ma-taung developed its high-quality
fragrance when King Ah-laung-Sithu of Bagan was exploring the area and his
queen’s Tha-na-ka container spilled to the ground, sprinkling her small blocks of
Tha-na-ka and spreading the precious fragrance of Shin-ma-taung’s Tha-na-ka
trees.
Tha-na-ka early historic roots were also revealed after a 1930 earthquake
dismantled the ancient Pagoda. From the wrecks, a kyauk pyin was found and it
was said to belong a princess of King Bayinnaung who ruled from 1550 to 1581.
King Bayinnaung is known for building the largest empire in the history of South-
east Asia.
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1.4 Tha-na-ka
The botanical name for Tha-na-ka is Limonia Acidissima L/ Hesperethusa crenulata
roem/ Naringi crenulata and family name of Tha-na-ka is Rutaceae with common
name of “Wood apple” or “Theethee”. It is a common tropical plant species in the
Indian subcontinent and South East Asia. It is grown throughout Asia tropical,
Southern America, Northern Malaysia, and on Penang Island. (Thein, 2014)
Myanmar has a monsoon climate type with three main seasons. The hottest period
is between February to May, the rainy season is generally from June to October,
and the cooler weather from November to February.
Tha-na-ka trees grow gradually and abundantly in central Myanmar’s dry zone. The
tree can grow without a lot of water and varieties that grow on dry, rocky soil,
blended with sand and laterite produce hard, thin bark that is durable and fragrant.
(Pearce, 2014).
Figure 5 Tha-na-ka Trees
Obtaining the Tha-na-ka paste is a very long process that speaks to its high value
in Myanmar culture. Tha-na-ka trees must grow for at least 35 years before they
are considered old enough to produce quality cuttings as the trees trunk took 3 to
10 years to grow 2 inches in diameter. Once the trees have grown large enough,
they’re cut and Tha-na-ka paste is then ground from the bark or roots.
Traditionally, the purchaser buys Tha-na-ka from vendors as individual small logs
or in bundles to be ground. But due to the modern day needs for convenience, pre-
12
ground powders and pastes are now available in the today market. However, many
Burmese people remain true to its organic form, unconvinced of what other
ingredients may be mixed into the pre-made products.
Figure 6 Tha-na-ka shop in the Market
The most famous areas for Tha-na-ka production took placed in Shwebo, Sagaing
state and Shin-ma-taung in Magwe State. Tha-na-ka blocks 10~20 centimeters
long from trees in the Shin-ma-taung area can cost up to 9000 kyat (round about
US$10) in the city market.
Figure 7 Extract out the Tha-na-ka Paste in Progress
Grinding the bark and root of the Tha-na-ka trees with few drops of water on a
stone slab that is called “kyauk pyin” to make the “Tha-na-ka” paste that had
yellowish white color. The grinding stone has a channel round, and the rim for the
13
resulting paste to drain into. The light creamy paste is usually applied to the cheeks
as round patches, sometimes in the shapes of leaves.
Figure 8 Art Creation with Tha-na-ka on Face
1.5 Objectives of the Thesis
As the world shows interest in natural products and ingredients perhaps Tha-na-ka
will be seen in more homes outside Myanmar as commercially made products
enter the overseas markets.
As a glance to this thesis, audiences will know how to make the Tha-na-ka and
what are the active ingredients inside and how it affects to our skin. Knowing the
pros and cons of Tha-na-ka, readers will be able to apply the Tha-na-ka as
cosmetic safely and beneficially.
1.6 Conclusion Remarks
Tha-na-ka is a tree with a long history that the people of Myanmar have used with
versatility. It has been a part of people’s daily lives for centuries and traditional skin
conditioner is a cherished part of national identity. In as world overwhelmed by
technology, which integrally develops synthetic and chemical solutions, we lose
sight of how effective nature can be in solving everyday problems.
14
By examining local traditions and applying them to modern day necessities, we are
developing premium natural solutions to promote longevity in life and our
environment, thereby allowing us to do what we love longer.
Further research and literature review will be discussed on the next chapter.
15
Chapter 2 Literature review
2.1 Introduction
“Research: somewhere, something incredible is waiting to be known.” (Sagan,
1977)
Literature research is a critical part of the project to understand the required
information needed to execute the aim and objective effectively and efficiently.
Tha-na-ka has been used for several thousand years in Myanmar. Only in the last
few years, the interest from researchers around the world has grown rapidly.
Topics related to this literature review are as follow:
1. Chemical compositions of Tha-na-ka
2. Drug resistant Malaria
2.2 Sources of Literature
During the thesis research and doing the thesis, the following sources are used for
literature search:
• Websites
• Journals
• Books from National Library of Singapore
• AES reference book bookshelf
2.3 Literature review on active ingredients of Tha-na-ka
Tha-na-ka is 100% organic and natural. It is a yellowish-white creamy paste
containing the two active ingredients. They are;
• Coumarin and
• Marmesin
2.3.1 Coumarin
Coumarin is the phytochemical that commonly found in the plant with a vanilla like
flavor. (Unknown, WiKipedia, 2016) Its chemical name is Benzopyrone & formula
is C9H6O2. It had the unique sweet aroma that reminds many people of freshly cut
grass, due to its unique smell it had been used in certain the perfumes since 1882
and fabric conditioners. Coumarin is oxygen heterocyclic and it can occur either
free or combined with the sugar glucose, which is called Coumarin glycoside.
16
Figure 9 Chemical Structure of Coumarin
Coumarin was found in several plants, including Tonka beans, lavender, licorice,
sweet grass, apricots, sweet woodruff, meadowsweet, cassia cinnamon, and sweet
clover. Coumarin has traditionally been used as a vanilla substitute in various
foods, especially tobacco, although this usage is restricted in some countries.
Coumarin seems to work as a natural pesticide in the plants to cut down on insects
so that the plant can grow uninterrupted as well.
Coumarin has blood-thinning, anti-fungicidal and anti-tumor activities. Coumarin
should not be taken while using anticoagulants. (Aung, 2014) Coumarin increases
the blood flow in the veins and decreases capillary permeability. Coumarin can be
toxic when used at high doses for a long period.
2.3.2 Marmesin
Marmesin is the chemical compound that can be found in the Bael bark or Tha-na-
ka bark and its chemical formula is C14H14O4.
Figure 10 Chemical Structure of Marmesin
Excessive exposure to UV-B and UV-A radiation can have deleterious effects on
human beings, including sunburn, sun-damaged skin, cataracts, snow blindness,
skin cancer, and immune system deficiencies.
17
Experiment & study has proved in the Plant Biology (Se-Hwan Joo, 2004);
Marmesin; Tha-na-ka active compound contains UV absorbing chromophores,
indicating that it could be commercially useful as a natural UV-A filtering product.
2.4 Literature review on Malaria
Malaria is a mosquito-borne infectious disease and it causes symptoms that
typically include fever, fatigue, vomiting, and headaches. In severe cases it can
cause yellow skin, seizures, coma, or death. (Unknown, WiKipedia.org, 2016)
The prevention and treatment of drug-resistant malaria is becoming increasingly
difficult. In Myanmar, villagers commonly use Tha-na-ka cream mixed into a
relevant skin cream. Tha-na-ka cream on its own can help cure acne, fungus, and
prevent mosquito bites. Therefore, when mixed with an additional mosquito
repellent ingredient the potency and preventative qualities of this magical ingredient
grow.
Researchers from European and Asian universities have studied this usage of Tha-
na-ka on the Thai-Myanmar border multi-drug resistant strains of falciparum
malaria are increasing and, because the malaria vector Anopheles bite outdoors
during early evening, insecticide house-spraying or infused bed-nets provide only
limited protection. Hence, the protective effectiveness of repellent formulations
containing di-methyl benzamine (deet) and permethrin against local vectors was
estimated, when applied to the skin, and their acceptability amongst pregnant
Karen women who are at relatively high risk from malaria was assessed. (Johnson,
2015). Human landing catches of mosquitoes showed that almost complete
protection was achieved using different formulations of 20% deet and 0.5%
permethrin for up to 6 hours. All-night collections from human subjects indicated
that this repellent combination reduced exposure to malaria parasites by at least
65% and 85% for those transmitted by two kinds of mosquito respectively.
Pregnant women in the camps preferred repellents, which were mixed with Tha-na-
ka. Apart from a temporary warming sensation where repellent Tha-na-ka was
applied to the skin, the repellents were well tolerated. An intervention trial is
currently in progress to determine whether deet mixed with Tha-na-ka can protect
pregnant women against malaria in this part of the world. (S.W. LINDSAY, 1998).
This treatment also provides some personal protection against dengue, which is
increasing locally transmitted by mosquitos biting during the daytime.
18
Chapter 3 Healing Power of Tha-na-ka
Tha-na-ka is an organic and natural paste made out of hand from selected barks
from Burmese Tha-na-ka tree. Tha-na-ka nourishes, cleanses and calms the skin
with its rich and natural ingredients. It is suitable for all skin types and can easily be
combined with other beauty products to be used in Facial & Body treatments.
Below are the active ingredients & their properties that involved in the Tha-na-ka &
its benefits. They are;
3.1 Coumarin
Coumarin is a group of important natural compounds that have been found to have
multi-biological activities such as anti-HIV, anti-tumor, anti-hypertension, anti-
arrhythmia, anti-osteoporosis, pain relief, and preventing asthma and antisepsis.
(Ray Sahelian, 2016)
Coumarin is a phytochemical, anti-bacterial, anti-fungal, anti-ageing and anti-
oxidant agent. Antibacterial and anti-inflammatory activity are responsible for
removing pimples and controlling excessive facial oil. It removes all kinds of
bacteria and fungi from human skin while actively producing the two major proteins
of collagen and elastin. Collagen and elastin reverse premature ageing and keeps
skin supple, elastic and young looking.
3.2 Marmesin
Marmesin shields the skin from harmful UV-B rays. UV-B increases the production
of melanin in our skin resulting in skin discoloration, freckles and even skin cancer.
Figure 11 How UV rays penetrate into the Skin
19
The Marmesin content naturally protects the skin from harmful UV-A rays. UV-A
destroys both skin proteins and moisture, which causes wrinkles, fine lines and
premature ageing.
3.3 Vitamin E
With high amounts of vitamin E, Tha-na-ka is a natural antioxidant that protects our
skin against free radicals and polluted air. In addition, Tha-na-ka is an effective
moisturizer and it is hydrating and cooling effect makes it ideal for post-sun
exposure as well.
Figure 12 Benefits of Vitamin E to Facial Skin
3.4 Particles
Tha-na-ka consists of very fine particles when it dried up that can be used as a
cleanser, effectively removes dead skin cells from the outermost layer of your skin.
The result: A smooth and soft facial skin.
3.5 Tyrosinase inhibitors
Skin pigmentation is influenced by several factors like; Hemoglobin in the blood
vessels, Carotenoids in the dermis layer, and Melanin in the epidermis.
Studies have also revealed that Tha-na-ka inhibits Tyrosinase, the enzyme that
triggers melanin synthesis and affects skin discoloration. Therefore, the regular use
of Tha-na-ka can help decrease melanomas activity and brighten the skin’s
complexion. (Sabinsacosmetics)
20
Figure 13 Melanin Biosynthesis
Aside from the above benefits of Tha-na-ka paste, the leaves, & root of the Tha-na-
ka are also used to treat various illnesses. The leaves are used in poultice for
healing skin sores and have been used in treatments for leprosy, malaria, and
epilepsy. Tha-na-ka root is believed to be good for stomachache, heart disease
and rheumatism.
3.6 Contra-indications of the Tha-na-ka
Since Tha-na-ka is an organic, fresh, and natural, almost none contraindication for
the Tha-na-ka application on the skin. But people having a history of allergy to Tha-
na-ka should avoid using it as it may cause the skin rashes and itching.
Below are the contraindications for Tha-na-ka oral consumption;
• People suffering from serious gastric disorders
• Diabetic patients as Tha-na-ka may lower the blood sugar level
• Thyroid disorders
• Pregnant women
• Lactating mothers
21
3.7 Contra-actions of Tha-na-ka
Tha-na-ka powder is likely safe for external use. (Singh, 2016). Oral consumption
in excessive amounts can lead to;
• Bloating
• Flatulence
• Constipation
• Stomach upset
• Other digestive disorders
3.8 Tha-na-ka in the Market
3.8.1 Raw Tha-na-ka logs
Traditionally, Tha-na-ka is sold from vendors in the Burmese market as individual
small logs or in bundles. In its raw natural state, pre-cut size is 10-18cm branches
and logs.
Figure 14 Pre-cut Tha-na-ka Chunk at Vendor shop
3.8.2 Pre-made paste
Due to the modern day need for convenience, there are load of different pre-made
pastes, creams, powders, and pressed powder bars on the market.
22
Figure 15 Different Varieties of Tha-na-ka Types in the Market
3.8.3 Tha-na-ka powder
The popular Tha-na-ka Powder from ARGO NATURALS is an all-natural powder
made out of hand-selected barks from high quality Burmese Tha-na-ka trees. Pure
Tha-na-ka Powder nourishes, cleanses and calms the skin with its rich and natural
ingredients. It is suitable for all skin types and can easily be combined with other
beauty products to be used in facial and body treatments. The Tha-na-ka Powder is
safely and environmental friendly packed in a signature bamboo jar.
Figure 16 Argo Naturals 100% Pure Tha-na-ka Powder
23
3.8.4 Tha-na-ka skin care product series
Bio-essence is the affordable brand in the market and they had brought the Tha-
na-ka White series adapt modern bioengineering techniques to extract highly
effective whitening, moisturizing and anti-inflammatory agents from Tanaka tree
bark, providing the most natural and effective care for the skin. The products have
the excellent nourishing, hydrating and cooling properties, leaving skin smooth,
supple and relaxed. (Unknown, Bio-essence.com.sg, 2016)
Figure 17 Bio-Essence Tha-na-ka White Series
3.8.5 Tha-na-ka soap
De Leaf Tha-na-ka soap is facial or body soap created from natural Tha-na-ka-
based mixture and other carefully selected ingredients to provide both beauty and
true sense of nature. Goodness of Tha-na-ka-based mixture brings ultimately gives
silky soft and smooth skin and Tha-na-ka reduce premature aging of skin cells.
(DeLeaf, 2015)
24
Figure 18 De Leaf Tha-na-ka Products
Beside the Tha-na-ka soap, De Leaf had introduced the other Tha-na-ka products
like Tha-na-ka moisturizing cream, Tha-na-ka foundation compact, and refreshing
Talc for the body used.
25
Chapter 4 Tha-na-ka & Beauty Industry
Burmese women have used Tha-na-ka for thousands of years as a beauty product.
It was commonly applied on the face.
4.1 Tha-na-ka Paste Extraction
To extract out the Tha-na-ka paste from raw log, the below items are essential.
They are;
1. Raw Tha-na-ka log
2. Round stone slab called “Kyauk Pyin”
3. Mineral water
4.1.1 Preparation before Extraction
Hygiene plays significant role in creating cosmetic or application to the skin so do
for the Tha-na-ka paste extraction. The main tool we need for this cleaning process
is small hand held brush and anti-bacterial hand soap.
Figure 19 Before Tha-na-ka Extraction
26
1. Hold the newly bought raw Tha-na-ka with your hand and take the brush
with another hand.
Figure 20 Tha-na-ka log with brush
2. Placed under the water tap and released the tap.
Figure 21 Tha-na-ka log cleansing steps
3. Began to brush it off start from the top of the Tha-na-ka and followed by
bottom part of the Tha-na-ka chunk.
4. Scrub off thoroughly the bark under the running water anti-clockwise to
remove the dirt and sand in between the bark.
5. Bring the medium size bowl and fill in the hot water & mix a few drop of anti-
bacterial hand soap to the hot water.
6. Stir the hot water & put Tha-na-ka block into the hot water. This step is to
dissolve the stubborn dirt on the Tha-na-ka block.
27
Figure 22 Cleansing Tha-na-ka log with anti bacterial soap water
7. Cover container with small towel & let the Tha-na-ka soaked with water
overnight.
Figure 23 Overnight soaking processes
8. On the next morning, remove the Tha-na-ka chunk from the container and
throw the soapy water.
Figure 24 Draining out the soapy water
28
9. Clean the container with tap water.
10.Fill the water into the container again.
11.Put in the Tha-na-ka into the container and scrub the block with hand-held
brush counterclockwise.
Figure 25 Tha-na-ka final cleansing
12.Throw the water and repeat step 10 and 11 for three times to remove the
remaining stubborn dirt and soap from the chunk.
13.Drain the Tha-na-ka chunk on the towel and it is ready for paste extraction.
Figure 26 Log for paste extraction
Above cleaning step is only required one time for newly Tha-na-ka block. A piece of
Tha-na-ka block can be last for 3 to 6 months depends on the usage frequency.
29
The bark will be gradually thin upon daily usage. Comparison of newly Tha-na-ka
block and daily used Tha-na-ka had shown in the Figure.
If Tha-na-ka block is not new one, please follow the below steps for the
preparation. You will need the plastic sheet, mineral water, small empty bottle
pump, empty container to store the paste if required, few sheets of kitchen towel, a
table, medium size tray, towels, tea scoop spoon, spatula, small brush and anti-
bacterial soap.
1. Laid the plastic sheet on the table. This step is the easy cleaning afterwards
to prevent the floor or table from the Tha-na-ka paste stain. Do not worry
about the floor or table stain because Tha-na-ka stain can be removed
easily with water.
2. Laid the bathroom towel on the plastic sheet table.
3. Fill in the mineral water into the empty water pump bottle and put it on the
table.
4. Fill in the water into the container and wet the stone slab by putting into the
water bowl.
Figure 27 Stone slab cleansing step one
5. Put a drop of anti-bacterial onto the slab surface and scrub it off thoroughly
using the small brush.
Figure 28 Stone slab cleansing step two
30
6. Clean the soap under running water.
Figure 29 Stone slab cleansing step by step
7. Placed the clean “Kyauk Pyin” aka stone slab onto the table to dry out the
water.
Figure 30 Ready for Tha-na-ka Paste extraction
8. Clean the Tha-na-ka block under running water with brush block and placed
on the table.
9. Arrange the empty containers on the table if paste storage is required.
10.Remove the makeup and wash the face using your favorite cleanser.
11.Scrub the face with homemade Tha-na-ka exfoliator.
12.Tab the face with towel gently.
13.Apply the toner and moisture or foundation to the face.
14.Clean your hand with anti-bacterial soap and dry the hand with kitchen
towel.
15.Sterilize the hand with hand sanitizer.
31
16.Tab the Kyauk Pyin with kitchen towel to absorb the remaining water on the
stone.
Everything is ready and let’s gets started!
4.1.2 Tha-na-ka Extraction
Firstly, pump one or two drops of water onto the Kyauk Pyin.
Figure 31 Tha-na-ka extraction step 1
Grind the Tha-na-ka block on the stone slab by circular motion. The paste will be
generated.
Figure 32 Tha-na-ka paste extraction step two
32
Mixed a few more water onto the kyauk pyin if the paste is thicker and thicker and
Tha-na-ka is ready for application or storage.
Figure 33 Tha-na-ka paste
Using spatula & tea scoop spoon to transfer the Tha-na-ka paste into the container
and keep the container in the fridge for further usage.
Figure 34 Tha-na-ka paste from slab
Using the pointing finger to scoop the Tha-na-ka from the stone slab and spread it
on the face evenly for sunblock application.
33
Figure 35 Tha-na-ka paste application
4.2 Tha-na-ka Therapy
Tha-na-ka is a moisturizing treatment that soothes and cools the skin while it evens
out skin tones. It is also an anti-bacterial/fungal that helps clear your skin of acnes,
freckles, whiteheads/blackheads, face and skin rashes as well as soothes sunburn
and relieve itchiness. Tha-na-ka is also a non-greasy anti-oxidant that replenishes
essential nutrients for the skin, which slows down the ageing process by reducing
wrinkles and fine lines. It is a native herb that helps to eliminate dark spots on the
skin effectively and mitigating the darkly rough marks, particularly at the armpits,
thighs, ankles and elbows. Below are the treatments that can be made by you at
home using freshly Tha-na-ka paste.
4.2.1 Tha-na-ka as an Exfoliator
To form a gentle exfoliating paste, either freshly made Tha-na-ka paste or Organic
Tha-na-ka powder from today market can be easily combined with honey and milk.
Figure 36 Honey & Milk
34
Preparation;
• Mix Tha-na-ka paste or powder with honey and milk.
Figure 37 Tha-na-ka as Exfoliator
How to use:
• Apply cream to face and gently massage it in a circular motion
• Let the cream rest for 5 minutes.
• Raise the paste off with lukewarm water.
4.2.2 Tha-na-ka combined with Lemon and oat meal scrub
To reduce breakouts, even skin tone, brightening and moisturize the skin.
Ingredients;
• ½ fresh lemon juice
• ½ cups of uncooked oat meal
• 2 teaspoon of organic Tha-na-ka powder or paste
• 2 tablespoon of organic avocado or coconut oil
• ¼ teaspoon honey
35
Figure 38 DIY scrub preparations
Preparation:
Mix the above ingredients together in the small bowl and stir well. If the paste is not
sticky enough, add more Tha-na-ka powder.
Figure 39 DIY Exfoliation
36
How to use:
Apply the paste evenly over the face using brush and massage it in a circular
motion for 5 minutes gently. Wash the paste off with lukewarm water.
4.2.3 Inspiring Tha-na-ka Face Mask
To brightens, smoothens, and softens the facial skin naturally.
Ingredients:
• 2 teaspoons of organic Tha-na-ka powder
• ¼ teaspoon of organic turmeric powder
• ¼ teaspoon of honey
• 2 tablespoons of vitamin E oil
Preparation:
Mix Tha-na-ka powder, Turmeric powder and vitamin E oil together until it forms the
creamy paste. Add some honey to the paste and stir it well with spatula.
How to use:
Apply the paste evenly over the face using brush. Leave the mask on for 30
minutes and wash it off using a wet face towel that you do not mind getting stained.
4.2.4 Nourishing Tha-na-ka Face Mask
This DIY facemask is used to rehydrates and nourishes the skin.
Ingredients:
• 2 teaspoons of organic Tha-na-ka powder
• 25 grams of grinded walnuts
• 1 teaspoon of honey
• 4 tablespoons of milk
Preparation:
Mix all the ingredients together till it forms a creamy paste. If the paste is too thick,
add more milk and if the paste is too liquid, add more Tha-na-ka powder.
How to use:
37
Apply the paste evenly over the face and leave the facemask on for 30 minutes and
wash it off with lukewarm water.
4.2.5 Refreshing Tha-na-ka Face Mask
This refreshing DIY facemask is to reduce impurities and diminishes the size of
pores leading to a soft, supple and even skin.
Ingredients:
• 2 teaspoons of organic Tha-na-ka powder
• 2 teaspoons of green clay
• 3-4 tablespoons of chamomile tea
Preparation:
Mix all ingredients together until it forms the creamy paste. Add some chamomile
tea if the paste is too thick or add more Tha-na-ka powder if the paste is too
watery.
How to use:
Apply the paste evenly over the face and let the mask dry. Wash it off with
lukewarm water.
4.2.6 Tha-na-ka as a permanent hair removal
Using very less ingredients & natural products can be removed your un-wanted hair
completely. It is a painless, cheap, easy to apply, 100% safe method. (Haley,
2015).
Kusum oil is a type of oil that extracted from the seed of the Kusum tree. The plate
is commonly known as Ceylon oak or Lac tree. The tree is native to India and
Pakistan, but it is also found in some parts of South East Asia.
When apply the Tha-na-ka powder and Kusum oil mixture consecutively, the
protein that contained in the Tha-na-ka act on the hair roots and weaken. After
some time of application, the entire hair root is completely destroyed. This helps in
the removal of the hair follicles from the treated area and the result will give a
clean-shaven look and the hair never grows in the treated areas giving a
permanent hair removal effect.
Ingredients:
38
• Tha-na-ka powder
• Kusum oil
Preparation:
Mix the Tha-na-ka powder and Kusum oil into the small bowl together.
How to use:
Recommend applying the paste at the nighttime. Use either brush or Q-tip to apply
the paste on the area that you want to focus on. Let the paste dry and sleep
overnight. Clean with warm water in the next morning.
4.2.7 Tha-na-ka as a mosquito repellent lotion
By mixing the Tha-na-ka paste with DEET, which is the yellowish oil and it is the
active ingredient for insect repellent, together and apply on the whole body to
protect the bites from mosquitos that can cause Malaria or Dengue. This method is
widely used in Thai-Myanmar border area to fight against Malaria.
If the DEET concentration content is more than 30%, the repellent mixture might be
dangerous. Hence, mothers always used the lemon eucalyptus oil as a
replacement of deet for their loved ones in the city area.
39
Conclusion
In Myanmar, Burmese girls and women have been using the finely ground bark of
the Tha-na-ka for many centuries to make a beautifying and skin-protecting cream.
The gold colored Tha-na-ka is offered in all markets in Myanmar and is used by
young and old.
As Myanmar gradually opens up to the world after decades of sanctions and
isolationism, the word about Tha-na-ka is slowly spreading. It was only approved
for export in 2006. Bio-Essence, a skincare company from Singapore had launched
Tha-na-ka White Series, a collection of skincare products to brighten the skin. And
a Swiss company called Argo Naturals started importing pure Tha-na-ka powder to
Europe with worldwide shipping to be used as a facial mask. Argo Natural powder
is phenomenal at softening and purifying the skin as well as it is the essential and
fuss free product for DIY treatments.
With Myanmar opening the market to the West, it did not take much time until
international cosmetic brands expanded and displaced many of the local brands.
Nevertheless, Tha-na-ka remained as a local skincare product and it is still popular
among Burmese society.
An old Asian proverb says the world’s most beautiful women have a Thai smile,
Indian eyes, and Burmese skin. Perhaps the Burmese have Tha-na-ka to thank for
the glowing reputation of their complexion.
40
Bibliography
Wiki. (2016, July 21). Wikipedia. Retrieved 2016, from wikipedia.org:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Myanmar#Geography
Reis. (2016, March 16). MANDA. Retrieved July 22, 2016, from simplebynature:
http://www.simplebynature.net/thanakas-historical-roots/
Pearce, L. (2014, Jan 30). Magical Myanmar. Retrieved July 22, 2016, from
www.mymagicalmyanmar.com:
http://www.mymagicalmyanmar.com/coverstory/thanaka-myanmars-fragrant-
versatilecosmetic/
Thein, T. (2014). www.academia.edu. Retrieved July 22, 2016, from Academia:
http://www.academia.edu/4148640/thanakha_special_studies
Sagan, C. (1977, August 15).
Unknown. (2016, July 2). WiKipedia. Retrieved July 24, 2016, from wikipedia.org:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coumarin
Aung, D. N. (2014). EVALUATION OF MYANMAR THANAKHA. Madalay.
Se-Hwan Joo, S.-C. L.-K. (2004). UV absorbent, marmesin, from the bark of
Thanakha. Plant Biology , 47 (2), 163-165.
Unknown. (2016, July 20). WiKipedia.org. Retrieved July 24, 2016, from WiKipedia:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Malaria
Johnson, S. (2015, Feb 19). theguardian.com. Retrieved July 25, 2016, from
theguardian: https://www.theguardian.com/sustainable-
business/2015/feb/19/malaria-prevention-midwives-myanmar-antimalarial-drugs-
thanaka
S.W. LINDSAY, J. A. (1998). Thanaka (Limonia acidissima) and Deet (di-methyl
benzamide) mixture as a mosquito repellent for use by Karen women (Vol. 12).
Ray Sahelian, M. (2016, July 22). raysahelian.com. Retrieved from Raysahelian:
http://www.raysahelian.com/coumarin.html
Singh, D. J. (2016, April 13). www.ayurtimes.com. Retrieved July 25, 2016, from
Ayurtimes: https://www.ayurtimes.com/thanaka-thanakha-powder/
41
Unknown. (2016). Bio-essence.com.sg. Retrieved from Bio-Essence:
http://www.bioessence.com.sg/products/tanaka-white/
DeLeaf. (2015). deleafthanaka.com. Retrieved from DeLeaf:
http://www.deleafthanaka.com/DeLeafThanaka/?lang=en_US&page_id=740
Sabinsacosmetics. (n.d.). sabinsacosmetics.com. Retrieved from
Sabinsacosmetics: http://sabinsacosmetics.com/skinlight.htm
Haley. (2015). Haleysnatural.com. Retrieved from http://haleysnatural.com/

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Magischer Baum

  • 1. 0 Aesthetics International Academy (Singapore) CIDESCO International Diploma (PG) Magischer Baum (aka) Tha-na-ka Student: Myat Myintzu Maung Maung Candidate No: 16151.05 Intake: November 2016
  • 2. 1 Abstract The author was grew up in the country called Burma (Myanmar), which is the only country around the world, can be seen people along the street, either adults, children or old, male or female, poor or rich, wearing the natural sunblock called “THA-NA-KHA” on their faces and bodies. Burma or Myanmar was located in the southern East Asia and it located close to the equator, the sun’s exposure is intense and no secret that it is hot in Myanmar. To protect the skin from the harsh environment, the Burmese uncovered Tha-na-ka as a natural and efficient alternative to sunblock. Although one third of my age wandering around in the engineering field, beauty never drift away from my interest. As well as the author was being grown up in the middle-income family, it was not easy to maintain the skincare routine with high- end brand products. Tha-na-ka is always the answer in my younger days while to maintain the skin from very severe weather. The fragrance of Tha-na-ka always reminds me of the memories with the loved ones. I had decided to do Tha-na-ka as my topic with the chance given because it is something that playing essential cosmetics of my everyday life since young. When I started this thesis, I discovered more benefits linked with Tha-na-ka than I ever imagined. I will try my level best to bring forward my findings as well as my own creative twists for future used.
  • 3. 2 Disclaimer I hereby declare that this thesis is my own work and contains no material, which has been accepted for the award of any diploma from any tertiary institution. To the best of my knowledge and belief, this thesis contains no material previously written or published by another person, except where due reference is made in the text. Signed: MYAT MYINTZU MAUNG MAUNG 26th July 2016
  • 4. 3 Acknowledgement I would like to thank the principle and all the teachers from AES for their guidance and encouragement, as well as the management team for their supports throughout my studies. Sharing their knowledge & experiences motivate me in one- way to another for future endeavors. And those have been essential during the research and writing of this thesis. I am heartily thankful to all of my colleagues and team whom always support and understand the situation to pursue my dream and goal during my part time and full time study. Finally, none of my studies would have been possible without the continuous support and courage from my family and friends. Last but not least, to God, who made all things possible and real.
  • 5. 4 Table of Contents Abstract ...................................................................................................................1 Disclaimer................................................................................................................2 Acknowledgement ..................................................................................................3 Table of Contents....................................................................................................4 List of Figures .........................................................................................................6 Chapter 1 Background and Significance..............................................................8 1.1 Introduction ...............................................................................................................8 1.2 Background of Myanmar..........................................................................................8 1.3 History of Tha-na-ka ...............................................................................................10 1.4 Tha-na-ka .................................................................................................................11 1.5 Objectives of the Thesis.........................................................................................13 1.6 Conclusion Remarks ..............................................................................................13 Chapter 2 Literature review..................................................................................15 2.1 Introduction .............................................................................................................15 2.2 Sources of Literature..............................................................................................15 2.3 Literature review on active ingredients of Tha-na-ka..........................................15 2.3.1 Coumarin............................................................................................................15 2.3.2 Marmesin ...........................................................................................................16 2.4 Literature review on Malaria ..................................................................................17 Chapter 3 Healing Power of Tha-na-ka ...............................................................18 3.1 Coumarin .................................................................................................................18 3.2 Marmesin .................................................................................................................18 3.3 Vitamin E..................................................................................................................19 3.4 Particles ...................................................................................................................19 3.5 Tyrosinase inhibitors..............................................................................................19 3.6 Contra-indications of the Tha-na-ka .....................................................................20 3.7 Contra-actions of Tha-na-ka ..................................................................................21 3.8 Tha-na-ka in the Market..........................................................................................21 3.8.1 Raw Tha-na-ka logs...........................................................................................21 3.8.2 Pre-made paste..................................................................................................21 3.8.3 Tha-na-ka powder..............................................................................................22 3.8.4 Tha-na-ka skin care product series....................................................................23 3.8.5 Tha-na-ka soap..................................................................................................23
  • 6. 5 Chapter 4 Tha-na-ka & Beauty Industry..............................................................25 4.1 Tha-na-ka Paste Extraction....................................................................................25 4.1.1 Preparation before Extraction ............................................................................25 4.1.2 Tha-na-ka Extraction..........................................................................................31 4.2 Tha-na-ka Therapy ..................................................................................................33 4.2.1 Tha-na-ka as an Exfoliator.................................................................................33 4.2.2 Tha-na-ka combined with Lemon and oat meal scrub .......................................34 4.2.3 Inspiring Tha-na-ka Face Mask..........................................................................36 4.2.4 Nourishing Tha-na-ka Face Mask......................................................................36 4.2.5 Refreshing Tha-na-ka Face Mask......................................................................37 4.2.6 Tha-na-ka as a permanent hair removal............................................................37 4.2.7 Tha-na-ka as a mosquito repellent lotion...........................................................38 Conclusion ............................................................................................................39 Bibliography..........................................................................................................40
  • 7. 6 List of Figures Figure 1 Map of Myanmar.........................................................................................8   Figure 2 Gemstones .................................................................................................9   Figure 3 Myanmar Jade............................................................................................9   Figure 4 A girl with Tha-na-ka.................................................................................10   Figure 5 Tha-na-ka Trees .......................................................................................11   Figure 6 Tha-na-ka shop in the Market...................................................................12   Figure 7 Extract out the Tha-na-ka Paste in Progress............................................12   Figure 8 Art Creation with Tha-na-ka on Face........................................................13   Figure 9 Chemical Structure of Coumarin...............................................................16   Figure 10 Chemical Structure of Marmesin ............................................................16   Figure 11 How UV rays penetrate into the Skin......................................................18   Figure 12 Benefits of Vitamin E to Facial Skin........................................................19   Figure 13 Melanin Biosynthesis..............................................................................20   Figure 14 Pre-cut Tha-na-ka Chunk at Vendor shop..............................................21   Figure 15 Different Varieties of Tha-na-ka Types in the Market .............................22   Figure 16 Argo Naturals 100% Pure Tha-na-ka Powder ........................................22   Figure 17 Bio-Essence Tha-na-ka White Series.....................................................23   Figure 18 De Leaf Tha-na-ka Products...................................................................24   Figure 19 Before Tha-na-ka Extraction...................................................................25   Figure 20 Tha-na-ka log with brush ........................................................................26   Figure 21 Tha-na-ka log cleansing steps................................................................26   Figure 22 Cleansing Tha-na-ka log with anti bacterial soap water .........................27   Figure 23 Overnight soaking processes .................................................................27   Figure 24 Draining out the soapy water..................................................................27  
  • 8. 7 Figure 25 Tha-na-ka final cleansing........................................................................28   Figure 26 Log for paste extraction ..........................................................................28   Figure 27 Stone slab cleansing step one................................................................29   Figure 28 Stone slab cleansing step two ................................................................29   Figure 29 Stone slab cleansing step by step ..........................................................30   Figure 30 Ready for Tha-na-ka Paste extraction....................................................30   Figure 31 Tha-na-ka extraction step 1....................................................................31   Figure 32 Tha-na-ka paste extraction step two.......................................................31   Figure 33 Tha-na-ka paste......................................................................................32   Figure 34 Tha-na-ka paste from slab......................................................................32   Figure 35 Tha-na-ka paste application ...................................................................33   Figure 36 Honey & Milk...........................................................................................33   Figure 37 Tha-na-ka as Exfoliator...........................................................................34   Figure 38 DIY scrub preparations...........................................................................35   Figure 39 DIY Exfoliation ........................................................................................35  
  • 9. 8 Chapter 1 Background and Significance 1.1 Introduction This chapter presents the profile of Myanmar or Burma, its strong history of rich in natural resources. The thesis will be focused to explore the skin benefits from “Tha-na-ka”. Basic illustrations and diagrams will help the reader to understand what is “Tha-na-ka” and why it was widely used in the Asian. A through discussion of “Tha-na-ka” history, manufacturing process, thesis background and structure of thesis will be described further in this chapter. 1.2 Background of Myanmar The country’s official full name is the “Republic of the Union of Myanmar” but it was popularly known as either “Burma” or “Myanmar”. The name of Burma had been used since 18th century. In 1989, military government officially changed to Myanmar. (Wiki, 2016). Figure 1 Map of Myanmar
  • 10. 9 Myanmar is round about 680,000 square kilometer in size and total population is 51 millions. It was bordered in between Bangladesh, Laos, Thailand, Tibet and Yunnan. Myanmar is divided into seven states and seven divisions. Figure 2 Gemstones Myanmar produces precious stones such as rubies, sapphires, pearls, gold, and jade. Aside from the gems, some other valuable resources such as teak, rubber, metals natural oil and gas can be found generously in Myanmar. Figure 3 Myanmar Jade The signature choice of cosmetic in Myanmar called Tha-na-ka; it is a yellowish- white paste that made from ground bark and commonly applied it to the face and body. The most notable sight for tourists is not only the exotic landscapes or temples but also the yellowish paste “Tha-na-ka” that can be found painted on the faces of Burmese adults, children and old.
  • 11. 10 Figure 4 A girl with Tha-na-ka 1.3 History of Tha-na-ka It is believed that a legendary queen of Beikthano, whose envy-inducing skin was attributed to using the paste, made Tha-na-ka use popular. However, the first written reference of its use in Burma is found in a 14th century poem written by a acquaintance of King Razadarit, who is famous for one of Burma’s greatest monarchs. (Reis, 2016). Legend has it that Tha-na-ka from Shin-ma-taung developed its high-quality fragrance when King Ah-laung-Sithu of Bagan was exploring the area and his queen’s Tha-na-ka container spilled to the ground, sprinkling her small blocks of Tha-na-ka and spreading the precious fragrance of Shin-ma-taung’s Tha-na-ka trees. Tha-na-ka early historic roots were also revealed after a 1930 earthquake dismantled the ancient Pagoda. From the wrecks, a kyauk pyin was found and it was said to belong a princess of King Bayinnaung who ruled from 1550 to 1581. King Bayinnaung is known for building the largest empire in the history of South- east Asia.
  • 12. 11 1.4 Tha-na-ka The botanical name for Tha-na-ka is Limonia Acidissima L/ Hesperethusa crenulata roem/ Naringi crenulata and family name of Tha-na-ka is Rutaceae with common name of “Wood apple” or “Theethee”. It is a common tropical plant species in the Indian subcontinent and South East Asia. It is grown throughout Asia tropical, Southern America, Northern Malaysia, and on Penang Island. (Thein, 2014) Myanmar has a monsoon climate type with three main seasons. The hottest period is between February to May, the rainy season is generally from June to October, and the cooler weather from November to February. Tha-na-ka trees grow gradually and abundantly in central Myanmar’s dry zone. The tree can grow without a lot of water and varieties that grow on dry, rocky soil, blended with sand and laterite produce hard, thin bark that is durable and fragrant. (Pearce, 2014). Figure 5 Tha-na-ka Trees Obtaining the Tha-na-ka paste is a very long process that speaks to its high value in Myanmar culture. Tha-na-ka trees must grow for at least 35 years before they are considered old enough to produce quality cuttings as the trees trunk took 3 to 10 years to grow 2 inches in diameter. Once the trees have grown large enough, they’re cut and Tha-na-ka paste is then ground from the bark or roots. Traditionally, the purchaser buys Tha-na-ka from vendors as individual small logs or in bundles to be ground. But due to the modern day needs for convenience, pre-
  • 13. 12 ground powders and pastes are now available in the today market. However, many Burmese people remain true to its organic form, unconvinced of what other ingredients may be mixed into the pre-made products. Figure 6 Tha-na-ka shop in the Market The most famous areas for Tha-na-ka production took placed in Shwebo, Sagaing state and Shin-ma-taung in Magwe State. Tha-na-ka blocks 10~20 centimeters long from trees in the Shin-ma-taung area can cost up to 9000 kyat (round about US$10) in the city market. Figure 7 Extract out the Tha-na-ka Paste in Progress Grinding the bark and root of the Tha-na-ka trees with few drops of water on a stone slab that is called “kyauk pyin” to make the “Tha-na-ka” paste that had yellowish white color. The grinding stone has a channel round, and the rim for the
  • 14. 13 resulting paste to drain into. The light creamy paste is usually applied to the cheeks as round patches, sometimes in the shapes of leaves. Figure 8 Art Creation with Tha-na-ka on Face 1.5 Objectives of the Thesis As the world shows interest in natural products and ingredients perhaps Tha-na-ka will be seen in more homes outside Myanmar as commercially made products enter the overseas markets. As a glance to this thesis, audiences will know how to make the Tha-na-ka and what are the active ingredients inside and how it affects to our skin. Knowing the pros and cons of Tha-na-ka, readers will be able to apply the Tha-na-ka as cosmetic safely and beneficially. 1.6 Conclusion Remarks Tha-na-ka is a tree with a long history that the people of Myanmar have used with versatility. It has been a part of people’s daily lives for centuries and traditional skin conditioner is a cherished part of national identity. In as world overwhelmed by technology, which integrally develops synthetic and chemical solutions, we lose sight of how effective nature can be in solving everyday problems.
  • 15. 14 By examining local traditions and applying them to modern day necessities, we are developing premium natural solutions to promote longevity in life and our environment, thereby allowing us to do what we love longer. Further research and literature review will be discussed on the next chapter.
  • 16. 15 Chapter 2 Literature review 2.1 Introduction “Research: somewhere, something incredible is waiting to be known.” (Sagan, 1977) Literature research is a critical part of the project to understand the required information needed to execute the aim and objective effectively and efficiently. Tha-na-ka has been used for several thousand years in Myanmar. Only in the last few years, the interest from researchers around the world has grown rapidly. Topics related to this literature review are as follow: 1. Chemical compositions of Tha-na-ka 2. Drug resistant Malaria 2.2 Sources of Literature During the thesis research and doing the thesis, the following sources are used for literature search: • Websites • Journals • Books from National Library of Singapore • AES reference book bookshelf 2.3 Literature review on active ingredients of Tha-na-ka Tha-na-ka is 100% organic and natural. It is a yellowish-white creamy paste containing the two active ingredients. They are; • Coumarin and • Marmesin 2.3.1 Coumarin Coumarin is the phytochemical that commonly found in the plant with a vanilla like flavor. (Unknown, WiKipedia, 2016) Its chemical name is Benzopyrone & formula is C9H6O2. It had the unique sweet aroma that reminds many people of freshly cut grass, due to its unique smell it had been used in certain the perfumes since 1882 and fabric conditioners. Coumarin is oxygen heterocyclic and it can occur either free or combined with the sugar glucose, which is called Coumarin glycoside.
  • 17. 16 Figure 9 Chemical Structure of Coumarin Coumarin was found in several plants, including Tonka beans, lavender, licorice, sweet grass, apricots, sweet woodruff, meadowsweet, cassia cinnamon, and sweet clover. Coumarin has traditionally been used as a vanilla substitute in various foods, especially tobacco, although this usage is restricted in some countries. Coumarin seems to work as a natural pesticide in the plants to cut down on insects so that the plant can grow uninterrupted as well. Coumarin has blood-thinning, anti-fungicidal and anti-tumor activities. Coumarin should not be taken while using anticoagulants. (Aung, 2014) Coumarin increases the blood flow in the veins and decreases capillary permeability. Coumarin can be toxic when used at high doses for a long period. 2.3.2 Marmesin Marmesin is the chemical compound that can be found in the Bael bark or Tha-na- ka bark and its chemical formula is C14H14O4. Figure 10 Chemical Structure of Marmesin Excessive exposure to UV-B and UV-A radiation can have deleterious effects on human beings, including sunburn, sun-damaged skin, cataracts, snow blindness, skin cancer, and immune system deficiencies.
  • 18. 17 Experiment & study has proved in the Plant Biology (Se-Hwan Joo, 2004); Marmesin; Tha-na-ka active compound contains UV absorbing chromophores, indicating that it could be commercially useful as a natural UV-A filtering product. 2.4 Literature review on Malaria Malaria is a mosquito-borne infectious disease and it causes symptoms that typically include fever, fatigue, vomiting, and headaches. In severe cases it can cause yellow skin, seizures, coma, or death. (Unknown, WiKipedia.org, 2016) The prevention and treatment of drug-resistant malaria is becoming increasingly difficult. In Myanmar, villagers commonly use Tha-na-ka cream mixed into a relevant skin cream. Tha-na-ka cream on its own can help cure acne, fungus, and prevent mosquito bites. Therefore, when mixed with an additional mosquito repellent ingredient the potency and preventative qualities of this magical ingredient grow. Researchers from European and Asian universities have studied this usage of Tha- na-ka on the Thai-Myanmar border multi-drug resistant strains of falciparum malaria are increasing and, because the malaria vector Anopheles bite outdoors during early evening, insecticide house-spraying or infused bed-nets provide only limited protection. Hence, the protective effectiveness of repellent formulations containing di-methyl benzamine (deet) and permethrin against local vectors was estimated, when applied to the skin, and their acceptability amongst pregnant Karen women who are at relatively high risk from malaria was assessed. (Johnson, 2015). Human landing catches of mosquitoes showed that almost complete protection was achieved using different formulations of 20% deet and 0.5% permethrin for up to 6 hours. All-night collections from human subjects indicated that this repellent combination reduced exposure to malaria parasites by at least 65% and 85% for those transmitted by two kinds of mosquito respectively. Pregnant women in the camps preferred repellents, which were mixed with Tha-na- ka. Apart from a temporary warming sensation where repellent Tha-na-ka was applied to the skin, the repellents were well tolerated. An intervention trial is currently in progress to determine whether deet mixed with Tha-na-ka can protect pregnant women against malaria in this part of the world. (S.W. LINDSAY, 1998). This treatment also provides some personal protection against dengue, which is increasing locally transmitted by mosquitos biting during the daytime.
  • 19. 18 Chapter 3 Healing Power of Tha-na-ka Tha-na-ka is an organic and natural paste made out of hand from selected barks from Burmese Tha-na-ka tree. Tha-na-ka nourishes, cleanses and calms the skin with its rich and natural ingredients. It is suitable for all skin types and can easily be combined with other beauty products to be used in Facial & Body treatments. Below are the active ingredients & their properties that involved in the Tha-na-ka & its benefits. They are; 3.1 Coumarin Coumarin is a group of important natural compounds that have been found to have multi-biological activities such as anti-HIV, anti-tumor, anti-hypertension, anti- arrhythmia, anti-osteoporosis, pain relief, and preventing asthma and antisepsis. (Ray Sahelian, 2016) Coumarin is a phytochemical, anti-bacterial, anti-fungal, anti-ageing and anti- oxidant agent. Antibacterial and anti-inflammatory activity are responsible for removing pimples and controlling excessive facial oil. It removes all kinds of bacteria and fungi from human skin while actively producing the two major proteins of collagen and elastin. Collagen and elastin reverse premature ageing and keeps skin supple, elastic and young looking. 3.2 Marmesin Marmesin shields the skin from harmful UV-B rays. UV-B increases the production of melanin in our skin resulting in skin discoloration, freckles and even skin cancer. Figure 11 How UV rays penetrate into the Skin
  • 20. 19 The Marmesin content naturally protects the skin from harmful UV-A rays. UV-A destroys both skin proteins and moisture, which causes wrinkles, fine lines and premature ageing. 3.3 Vitamin E With high amounts of vitamin E, Tha-na-ka is a natural antioxidant that protects our skin against free radicals and polluted air. In addition, Tha-na-ka is an effective moisturizer and it is hydrating and cooling effect makes it ideal for post-sun exposure as well. Figure 12 Benefits of Vitamin E to Facial Skin 3.4 Particles Tha-na-ka consists of very fine particles when it dried up that can be used as a cleanser, effectively removes dead skin cells from the outermost layer of your skin. The result: A smooth and soft facial skin. 3.5 Tyrosinase inhibitors Skin pigmentation is influenced by several factors like; Hemoglobin in the blood vessels, Carotenoids in the dermis layer, and Melanin in the epidermis. Studies have also revealed that Tha-na-ka inhibits Tyrosinase, the enzyme that triggers melanin synthesis and affects skin discoloration. Therefore, the regular use of Tha-na-ka can help decrease melanomas activity and brighten the skin’s complexion. (Sabinsacosmetics)
  • 21. 20 Figure 13 Melanin Biosynthesis Aside from the above benefits of Tha-na-ka paste, the leaves, & root of the Tha-na- ka are also used to treat various illnesses. The leaves are used in poultice for healing skin sores and have been used in treatments for leprosy, malaria, and epilepsy. Tha-na-ka root is believed to be good for stomachache, heart disease and rheumatism. 3.6 Contra-indications of the Tha-na-ka Since Tha-na-ka is an organic, fresh, and natural, almost none contraindication for the Tha-na-ka application on the skin. But people having a history of allergy to Tha- na-ka should avoid using it as it may cause the skin rashes and itching. Below are the contraindications for Tha-na-ka oral consumption; • People suffering from serious gastric disorders • Diabetic patients as Tha-na-ka may lower the blood sugar level • Thyroid disorders • Pregnant women • Lactating mothers
  • 22. 21 3.7 Contra-actions of Tha-na-ka Tha-na-ka powder is likely safe for external use. (Singh, 2016). Oral consumption in excessive amounts can lead to; • Bloating • Flatulence • Constipation • Stomach upset • Other digestive disorders 3.8 Tha-na-ka in the Market 3.8.1 Raw Tha-na-ka logs Traditionally, Tha-na-ka is sold from vendors in the Burmese market as individual small logs or in bundles. In its raw natural state, pre-cut size is 10-18cm branches and logs. Figure 14 Pre-cut Tha-na-ka Chunk at Vendor shop 3.8.2 Pre-made paste Due to the modern day need for convenience, there are load of different pre-made pastes, creams, powders, and pressed powder bars on the market.
  • 23. 22 Figure 15 Different Varieties of Tha-na-ka Types in the Market 3.8.3 Tha-na-ka powder The popular Tha-na-ka Powder from ARGO NATURALS is an all-natural powder made out of hand-selected barks from high quality Burmese Tha-na-ka trees. Pure Tha-na-ka Powder nourishes, cleanses and calms the skin with its rich and natural ingredients. It is suitable for all skin types and can easily be combined with other beauty products to be used in facial and body treatments. The Tha-na-ka Powder is safely and environmental friendly packed in a signature bamboo jar. Figure 16 Argo Naturals 100% Pure Tha-na-ka Powder
  • 24. 23 3.8.4 Tha-na-ka skin care product series Bio-essence is the affordable brand in the market and they had brought the Tha- na-ka White series adapt modern bioengineering techniques to extract highly effective whitening, moisturizing and anti-inflammatory agents from Tanaka tree bark, providing the most natural and effective care for the skin. The products have the excellent nourishing, hydrating and cooling properties, leaving skin smooth, supple and relaxed. (Unknown, Bio-essence.com.sg, 2016) Figure 17 Bio-Essence Tha-na-ka White Series 3.8.5 Tha-na-ka soap De Leaf Tha-na-ka soap is facial or body soap created from natural Tha-na-ka- based mixture and other carefully selected ingredients to provide both beauty and true sense of nature. Goodness of Tha-na-ka-based mixture brings ultimately gives silky soft and smooth skin and Tha-na-ka reduce premature aging of skin cells. (DeLeaf, 2015)
  • 25. 24 Figure 18 De Leaf Tha-na-ka Products Beside the Tha-na-ka soap, De Leaf had introduced the other Tha-na-ka products like Tha-na-ka moisturizing cream, Tha-na-ka foundation compact, and refreshing Talc for the body used.
  • 26. 25 Chapter 4 Tha-na-ka & Beauty Industry Burmese women have used Tha-na-ka for thousands of years as a beauty product. It was commonly applied on the face. 4.1 Tha-na-ka Paste Extraction To extract out the Tha-na-ka paste from raw log, the below items are essential. They are; 1. Raw Tha-na-ka log 2. Round stone slab called “Kyauk Pyin” 3. Mineral water 4.1.1 Preparation before Extraction Hygiene plays significant role in creating cosmetic or application to the skin so do for the Tha-na-ka paste extraction. The main tool we need for this cleaning process is small hand held brush and anti-bacterial hand soap. Figure 19 Before Tha-na-ka Extraction
  • 27. 26 1. Hold the newly bought raw Tha-na-ka with your hand and take the brush with another hand. Figure 20 Tha-na-ka log with brush 2. Placed under the water tap and released the tap. Figure 21 Tha-na-ka log cleansing steps 3. Began to brush it off start from the top of the Tha-na-ka and followed by bottom part of the Tha-na-ka chunk. 4. Scrub off thoroughly the bark under the running water anti-clockwise to remove the dirt and sand in between the bark. 5. Bring the medium size bowl and fill in the hot water & mix a few drop of anti- bacterial hand soap to the hot water. 6. Stir the hot water & put Tha-na-ka block into the hot water. This step is to dissolve the stubborn dirt on the Tha-na-ka block.
  • 28. 27 Figure 22 Cleansing Tha-na-ka log with anti bacterial soap water 7. Cover container with small towel & let the Tha-na-ka soaked with water overnight. Figure 23 Overnight soaking processes 8. On the next morning, remove the Tha-na-ka chunk from the container and throw the soapy water. Figure 24 Draining out the soapy water
  • 29. 28 9. Clean the container with tap water. 10.Fill the water into the container again. 11.Put in the Tha-na-ka into the container and scrub the block with hand-held brush counterclockwise. Figure 25 Tha-na-ka final cleansing 12.Throw the water and repeat step 10 and 11 for three times to remove the remaining stubborn dirt and soap from the chunk. 13.Drain the Tha-na-ka chunk on the towel and it is ready for paste extraction. Figure 26 Log for paste extraction Above cleaning step is only required one time for newly Tha-na-ka block. A piece of Tha-na-ka block can be last for 3 to 6 months depends on the usage frequency.
  • 30. 29 The bark will be gradually thin upon daily usage. Comparison of newly Tha-na-ka block and daily used Tha-na-ka had shown in the Figure. If Tha-na-ka block is not new one, please follow the below steps for the preparation. You will need the plastic sheet, mineral water, small empty bottle pump, empty container to store the paste if required, few sheets of kitchen towel, a table, medium size tray, towels, tea scoop spoon, spatula, small brush and anti- bacterial soap. 1. Laid the plastic sheet on the table. This step is the easy cleaning afterwards to prevent the floor or table from the Tha-na-ka paste stain. Do not worry about the floor or table stain because Tha-na-ka stain can be removed easily with water. 2. Laid the bathroom towel on the plastic sheet table. 3. Fill in the mineral water into the empty water pump bottle and put it on the table. 4. Fill in the water into the container and wet the stone slab by putting into the water bowl. Figure 27 Stone slab cleansing step one 5. Put a drop of anti-bacterial onto the slab surface and scrub it off thoroughly using the small brush. Figure 28 Stone slab cleansing step two
  • 31. 30 6. Clean the soap under running water. Figure 29 Stone slab cleansing step by step 7. Placed the clean “Kyauk Pyin” aka stone slab onto the table to dry out the water. Figure 30 Ready for Tha-na-ka Paste extraction 8. Clean the Tha-na-ka block under running water with brush block and placed on the table. 9. Arrange the empty containers on the table if paste storage is required. 10.Remove the makeup and wash the face using your favorite cleanser. 11.Scrub the face with homemade Tha-na-ka exfoliator. 12.Tab the face with towel gently. 13.Apply the toner and moisture or foundation to the face. 14.Clean your hand with anti-bacterial soap and dry the hand with kitchen towel. 15.Sterilize the hand with hand sanitizer.
  • 32. 31 16.Tab the Kyauk Pyin with kitchen towel to absorb the remaining water on the stone. Everything is ready and let’s gets started! 4.1.2 Tha-na-ka Extraction Firstly, pump one or two drops of water onto the Kyauk Pyin. Figure 31 Tha-na-ka extraction step 1 Grind the Tha-na-ka block on the stone slab by circular motion. The paste will be generated. Figure 32 Tha-na-ka paste extraction step two
  • 33. 32 Mixed a few more water onto the kyauk pyin if the paste is thicker and thicker and Tha-na-ka is ready for application or storage. Figure 33 Tha-na-ka paste Using spatula & tea scoop spoon to transfer the Tha-na-ka paste into the container and keep the container in the fridge for further usage. Figure 34 Tha-na-ka paste from slab Using the pointing finger to scoop the Tha-na-ka from the stone slab and spread it on the face evenly for sunblock application.
  • 34. 33 Figure 35 Tha-na-ka paste application 4.2 Tha-na-ka Therapy Tha-na-ka is a moisturizing treatment that soothes and cools the skin while it evens out skin tones. It is also an anti-bacterial/fungal that helps clear your skin of acnes, freckles, whiteheads/blackheads, face and skin rashes as well as soothes sunburn and relieve itchiness. Tha-na-ka is also a non-greasy anti-oxidant that replenishes essential nutrients for the skin, which slows down the ageing process by reducing wrinkles and fine lines. It is a native herb that helps to eliminate dark spots on the skin effectively and mitigating the darkly rough marks, particularly at the armpits, thighs, ankles and elbows. Below are the treatments that can be made by you at home using freshly Tha-na-ka paste. 4.2.1 Tha-na-ka as an Exfoliator To form a gentle exfoliating paste, either freshly made Tha-na-ka paste or Organic Tha-na-ka powder from today market can be easily combined with honey and milk. Figure 36 Honey & Milk
  • 35. 34 Preparation; • Mix Tha-na-ka paste or powder with honey and milk. Figure 37 Tha-na-ka as Exfoliator How to use: • Apply cream to face and gently massage it in a circular motion • Let the cream rest for 5 minutes. • Raise the paste off with lukewarm water. 4.2.2 Tha-na-ka combined with Lemon and oat meal scrub To reduce breakouts, even skin tone, brightening and moisturize the skin. Ingredients; • ½ fresh lemon juice • ½ cups of uncooked oat meal • 2 teaspoon of organic Tha-na-ka powder or paste • 2 tablespoon of organic avocado or coconut oil • ¼ teaspoon honey
  • 36. 35 Figure 38 DIY scrub preparations Preparation: Mix the above ingredients together in the small bowl and stir well. If the paste is not sticky enough, add more Tha-na-ka powder. Figure 39 DIY Exfoliation
  • 37. 36 How to use: Apply the paste evenly over the face using brush and massage it in a circular motion for 5 minutes gently. Wash the paste off with lukewarm water. 4.2.3 Inspiring Tha-na-ka Face Mask To brightens, smoothens, and softens the facial skin naturally. Ingredients: • 2 teaspoons of organic Tha-na-ka powder • ¼ teaspoon of organic turmeric powder • ¼ teaspoon of honey • 2 tablespoons of vitamin E oil Preparation: Mix Tha-na-ka powder, Turmeric powder and vitamin E oil together until it forms the creamy paste. Add some honey to the paste and stir it well with spatula. How to use: Apply the paste evenly over the face using brush. Leave the mask on for 30 minutes and wash it off using a wet face towel that you do not mind getting stained. 4.2.4 Nourishing Tha-na-ka Face Mask This DIY facemask is used to rehydrates and nourishes the skin. Ingredients: • 2 teaspoons of organic Tha-na-ka powder • 25 grams of grinded walnuts • 1 teaspoon of honey • 4 tablespoons of milk Preparation: Mix all the ingredients together till it forms a creamy paste. If the paste is too thick, add more milk and if the paste is too liquid, add more Tha-na-ka powder. How to use:
  • 38. 37 Apply the paste evenly over the face and leave the facemask on for 30 minutes and wash it off with lukewarm water. 4.2.5 Refreshing Tha-na-ka Face Mask This refreshing DIY facemask is to reduce impurities and diminishes the size of pores leading to a soft, supple and even skin. Ingredients: • 2 teaspoons of organic Tha-na-ka powder • 2 teaspoons of green clay • 3-4 tablespoons of chamomile tea Preparation: Mix all ingredients together until it forms the creamy paste. Add some chamomile tea if the paste is too thick or add more Tha-na-ka powder if the paste is too watery. How to use: Apply the paste evenly over the face and let the mask dry. Wash it off with lukewarm water. 4.2.6 Tha-na-ka as a permanent hair removal Using very less ingredients & natural products can be removed your un-wanted hair completely. It is a painless, cheap, easy to apply, 100% safe method. (Haley, 2015). Kusum oil is a type of oil that extracted from the seed of the Kusum tree. The plate is commonly known as Ceylon oak or Lac tree. The tree is native to India and Pakistan, but it is also found in some parts of South East Asia. When apply the Tha-na-ka powder and Kusum oil mixture consecutively, the protein that contained in the Tha-na-ka act on the hair roots and weaken. After some time of application, the entire hair root is completely destroyed. This helps in the removal of the hair follicles from the treated area and the result will give a clean-shaven look and the hair never grows in the treated areas giving a permanent hair removal effect. Ingredients:
  • 39. 38 • Tha-na-ka powder • Kusum oil Preparation: Mix the Tha-na-ka powder and Kusum oil into the small bowl together. How to use: Recommend applying the paste at the nighttime. Use either brush or Q-tip to apply the paste on the area that you want to focus on. Let the paste dry and sleep overnight. Clean with warm water in the next morning. 4.2.7 Tha-na-ka as a mosquito repellent lotion By mixing the Tha-na-ka paste with DEET, which is the yellowish oil and it is the active ingredient for insect repellent, together and apply on the whole body to protect the bites from mosquitos that can cause Malaria or Dengue. This method is widely used in Thai-Myanmar border area to fight against Malaria. If the DEET concentration content is more than 30%, the repellent mixture might be dangerous. Hence, mothers always used the lemon eucalyptus oil as a replacement of deet for their loved ones in the city area.
  • 40. 39 Conclusion In Myanmar, Burmese girls and women have been using the finely ground bark of the Tha-na-ka for many centuries to make a beautifying and skin-protecting cream. The gold colored Tha-na-ka is offered in all markets in Myanmar and is used by young and old. As Myanmar gradually opens up to the world after decades of sanctions and isolationism, the word about Tha-na-ka is slowly spreading. It was only approved for export in 2006. Bio-Essence, a skincare company from Singapore had launched Tha-na-ka White Series, a collection of skincare products to brighten the skin. And a Swiss company called Argo Naturals started importing pure Tha-na-ka powder to Europe with worldwide shipping to be used as a facial mask. Argo Natural powder is phenomenal at softening and purifying the skin as well as it is the essential and fuss free product for DIY treatments. With Myanmar opening the market to the West, it did not take much time until international cosmetic brands expanded and displaced many of the local brands. Nevertheless, Tha-na-ka remained as a local skincare product and it is still popular among Burmese society. An old Asian proverb says the world’s most beautiful women have a Thai smile, Indian eyes, and Burmese skin. Perhaps the Burmese have Tha-na-ka to thank for the glowing reputation of their complexion.
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