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Evidence
• Good Evidence
Evidence
• ‘Contains β – white which has been clinically
proven to visibly lighten the skin by up to 30% in
56 days’
OR
• ‘Contains licorice extract’
OR
• Run the clinical evaluations to see how your
product perform based on the suppliers
evidence, then: ‘Clinically proven to visibly lighten
the skin by up to x% in y days’
Evidence
• MUST hold it BEFORE you make the claim
• Regulators can demand evidence within 30 days or remove your
product from the market
• ‘But someone else is making that claim ’ is not an acceptable excuse
or evidence
• Evidence must be specific to the MATERIAL and grade you are using:
• not a general ‘but vitamin C is known to do this’ – how do you know
the material you are using will? How do you know which form has the
evidence? How do you know its stable in the formula?
• not a general journal report – how do you know you have the same
grade?
• SPF requires ISO testing (or AS testing in Aus)
Evidence
• Unsuitable
envidence: Glabridin plus – VC
Description
Glabridin is a nature skin whitening
agent extracted from special
liscorice flavonoids. It can inhibit the
activty of Tyrosinase, inhibit
dopachrome tautomerase and
activity of DHICA oxidation enxyme.
This is a nature and highly efficient
skin whitening agent and additive in
cosmetic product. Have similar
ability as SOD to remove radicals.
Ability to anti-oxidant properties
similar like Vitamin E.
Effect
Anti-inflamation
Anti-oxidation
Anti-aging
Protects from free radical damage
Whitening and lightening
Reduce redness
Appearance
Off- white Powder
Plant part used
Root of Glycyrrhiza Glabra L.
Safety
There is no any side reaction for
frequent or continous application.
Chemical Structure
Ingredient List
• Rules:
• use INCI names (or CTFA in USA) – use Cosing database (google
search Cosing Europa)
• descending order at 1 per cent or higher
• below 1 per cent in any order
• colour additves – in any order + ‘may contain’ OR ‘+/-’
• flavours or fragrances (parfum) + allergens listed (including
essential oils)
• First formal subject of Diploma of Brand Management to
learn how to search accurately:
• Suppliers documentation
• Ingredient compositions
• Cosing
Ingredient Lists
• Diluted ingredient:
• surfactants come as dilutions = Plantcare 818UP is 52% coco-
glucoside, remainder water
• 10% Plantacare 818UP in a formula = 5.2% coco glucoside
• Blended Ingredients:
• actives, extracts, emulsifiying waxes, preservatives
• E.g. Olivem 1000 = 60% cetearyl olivate, 40% sorbitan olivate
• 5% Oliverm 1000 = 3% cetearyl olivate, 2% sorbitan olivate
• Trade names NOT suitable in Ingredient list
• Cocamidopropyl betaine (from coconuts)… not truthful or
appropriate
• Olea europaea (olive) fruit oil – is truthful and acceptable
Label Information
• Front of pack:
• clear product name
• contents of the product in compliance with weights
and measures:
• liquid – volume
• skin cream in jars – volume or mass
• toothpaste – mass
• semi-solids or solids (e.g. balms or bars) mass
• Size of front specific to each country – check
• Imperial in Liberia, Myanmar and USA; rest of the
world uses metric.
Label Information
• Back of Pack
• marketing message
• clear directions for use – where use is not obvious(e.g. lipstick)
• relevant safety instructions and/or warnings listed
• ingredients listed correctly
• local country street address; also ‘manufactured by’ or ‘distributed by’
in US
• Batch number (optional but highly recommended in AU/US; required
in EU)?
• Expiry date: AU (where SPF claims only); US (optional); EU, JP, CH
(based on result of stability testing of EU PAO symbol where expiry >30
monts)
• For EU:
• Address where the Product Information File (PIF) is held written like: Art(19)1a
Brief Street Address, Country-CPId:xxxxx
• country of origin where it is imprted into the EU
Label Information
• Practice
• claims – how much do you actually hold evidence
for ?
• how naturals is your product? Is it as natural as
you thought ?
• prepare at least 2 ingredients lists
• prepare at least 2 labels using the checklist
Claims – let’s be honest
• 3rd type of claim: Clinical efficacy – must hold
spesific evidence
• Hydrates the skin for up to 8 hours
• Anti-ageing
• SPF claim – any number, even cosmetic
• 25% less wrinkles in 28 days or lightens the skin by up
to 20% in 28 days
• Contains ‘xyz’ which ‘does somethingin particular’ e.g.
contains CoEnzyme Q10 which rejuvenates the skin’s
appearance

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Evidence for skin lightening claims

  • 2. Evidence • ‘Contains β – white which has been clinically proven to visibly lighten the skin by up to 30% in 56 days’ OR • ‘Contains licorice extract’ OR • Run the clinical evaluations to see how your product perform based on the suppliers evidence, then: ‘Clinically proven to visibly lighten the skin by up to x% in y days’
  • 3. Evidence • MUST hold it BEFORE you make the claim • Regulators can demand evidence within 30 days or remove your product from the market • ‘But someone else is making that claim ’ is not an acceptable excuse or evidence • Evidence must be specific to the MATERIAL and grade you are using: • not a general ‘but vitamin C is known to do this’ – how do you know the material you are using will? How do you know which form has the evidence? How do you know its stable in the formula? • not a general journal report – how do you know you have the same grade? • SPF requires ISO testing (or AS testing in Aus)
  • 4. Evidence • Unsuitable envidence: Glabridin plus – VC Description Glabridin is a nature skin whitening agent extracted from special liscorice flavonoids. It can inhibit the activty of Tyrosinase, inhibit dopachrome tautomerase and activity of DHICA oxidation enxyme. This is a nature and highly efficient skin whitening agent and additive in cosmetic product. Have similar ability as SOD to remove radicals. Ability to anti-oxidant properties similar like Vitamin E. Effect Anti-inflamation Anti-oxidation Anti-aging Protects from free radical damage Whitening and lightening Reduce redness Appearance Off- white Powder Plant part used Root of Glycyrrhiza Glabra L. Safety There is no any side reaction for frequent or continous application. Chemical Structure
  • 5. Ingredient List • Rules: • use INCI names (or CTFA in USA) – use Cosing database (google search Cosing Europa) • descending order at 1 per cent or higher • below 1 per cent in any order • colour additves – in any order + ‘may contain’ OR ‘+/-’ • flavours or fragrances (parfum) + allergens listed (including essential oils) • First formal subject of Diploma of Brand Management to learn how to search accurately: • Suppliers documentation • Ingredient compositions • Cosing
  • 6. Ingredient Lists • Diluted ingredient: • surfactants come as dilutions = Plantcare 818UP is 52% coco- glucoside, remainder water • 10% Plantacare 818UP in a formula = 5.2% coco glucoside • Blended Ingredients: • actives, extracts, emulsifiying waxes, preservatives • E.g. Olivem 1000 = 60% cetearyl olivate, 40% sorbitan olivate • 5% Oliverm 1000 = 3% cetearyl olivate, 2% sorbitan olivate • Trade names NOT suitable in Ingredient list • Cocamidopropyl betaine (from coconuts)… not truthful or appropriate • Olea europaea (olive) fruit oil – is truthful and acceptable
  • 7. Label Information • Front of pack: • clear product name • contents of the product in compliance with weights and measures: • liquid – volume • skin cream in jars – volume or mass • toothpaste – mass • semi-solids or solids (e.g. balms or bars) mass • Size of front specific to each country – check • Imperial in Liberia, Myanmar and USA; rest of the world uses metric.
  • 8. Label Information • Back of Pack • marketing message • clear directions for use – where use is not obvious(e.g. lipstick) • relevant safety instructions and/or warnings listed • ingredients listed correctly • local country street address; also ‘manufactured by’ or ‘distributed by’ in US • Batch number (optional but highly recommended in AU/US; required in EU)? • Expiry date: AU (where SPF claims only); US (optional); EU, JP, CH (based on result of stability testing of EU PAO symbol where expiry >30 monts) • For EU: • Address where the Product Information File (PIF) is held written like: Art(19)1a Brief Street Address, Country-CPId:xxxxx • country of origin where it is imprted into the EU
  • 9. Label Information • Practice • claims – how much do you actually hold evidence for ? • how naturals is your product? Is it as natural as you thought ? • prepare at least 2 ingredients lists • prepare at least 2 labels using the checklist
  • 10. Claims – let’s be honest • 3rd type of claim: Clinical efficacy – must hold spesific evidence • Hydrates the skin for up to 8 hours • Anti-ageing • SPF claim – any number, even cosmetic • 25% less wrinkles in 28 days or lightens the skin by up to 20% in 28 days • Contains ‘xyz’ which ‘does somethingin particular’ e.g. contains CoEnzyme Q10 which rejuvenates the skin’s appearance