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REWINDING THE BRAND
Buccellati
MARKETING PLAN
(Sample from 2015)
Executive Summary
Industry and Company Analysis
• Market Summary
• Market trends and Buccellati SWOT
• Distribution and branding strategy
• Competition & the AO framework
Marketing Plan
• Positioning
• Target markets
• Brand awareness
• Mission Statement
Bibliography
Table of Contents
Buccellati carries the name of its founder, Italian goldsmith Mario Buccellati, and traces its heritage back to the
early 18th century. The company opened its first store in 1919, near La Scala Opera House in Milan, and was the
first among Italian jewelers to open a shop on Fifth Avenue in New York. As Buccellati gained popularity in
handcrafted jewelry with his designs referencing Renaissance art and technique, the clientele list came to include
the Vatican and the Royal Courts of Europe. Today Buccellati’s legacy is continued by his family successors who
use the original Buccellati technique and design to handcraft luxury jewelry pieces.
In 2013 Italian-based private equity firm Clessidra acquired a majority stake in Buccellati, buying 70% of the
company for $102.6 million. The transaction was signed directly between Clessidra and the Buccellati Family,
who will retain a minority stake in the private enterprise moving forward. A key challenge today is to
harmoniously balance the need for Clessidra’s demand for short-term ROI with the long-term responsibility of
protecting the brand equity accrued over 200 years of family stewardship. It will be imperative for the 4th
generation of the family to modernize the brand successfully, while not abandoning its core values of artistry
and excellence. In essence, Buccellati's leaders must find a way to build a bridge between past and future.
The new structure of the company took further shape after the acquisition when the company announced
Thierry Andretta as its new CEO. Andretta successfully ran luxury brand Celine within LVMH in the late 90’s
and most recently headed the luxury brand Lanvin, where he doubled sales during his four years at the helm.
According to the article, Andretta will seek to capitalize on Buccellati’s “rich history…its artisanal yet nimble
production ability in high jewelry, which accounts for the lion’s share of revenues.” In addition, its new
management is looking to grow into new segments.
Executive Summary
Before exploring the fine jewelry market and assessing its opportunities and threats in regards to Buccellati’s
Northern America strategies, we need to ask ourselves the question: “what is fine jewelry?”
Dean Millard, the editor of the Jeweler Magazine conducted a debate among industry participants on the
definition. While he found that it was nearly impossible to clearly define the term, there were 5 key ideas put
forward:
1) “something that is mass produced cannot be classified as ‘fine jewelry” – need for exclusivity;
2) “must be made from fine materials and gems of fine quality and make and assembled with fine skills” –
artistry, scarcity and a unique production process
3) price may or may not be a “factor of the definition” – price is not a standard of measure
4) “something made to endure over a long period of time” in terms of desire and material – time relationship
5) the luxury customers would “ultimately decide for each brand” – universal agreement on the brands
standing as a luxury fine jeweler.
From the above company summary, we conclude that Buccellati brand does possess all these definitions and
should be considered in the universe of brands that also incorporate these key traits.
Industry and Company Analysis
Buccellati definitions of FINE JEWELRY
Industry and Company Analysis
NO MASS PRODUCTION
PRICE IS NOT A FACTOR
TIME
FINE MATERIAL, SKILL
CUSTOMER
Industry and Company Analysis
Buccellati Universe
Fine Jewelry & Museum Items
watchesiPhone accessories
Silverware
Wedding jewelry
Even though the global recession still holds a weakened grip on luxury consumer spending, analysts report a
strong growth in the fine jewelry sector, with global sales of €148 billion ($204.65 billion) in 2013, and expect the
sector to grow at a sustainable rate of 5% to 6% each year, totaling €250 billion ($345.7 billion) by 2020.
In North America, luxury jewelry and timepieces represent 20% of the total jewelry industry with fine jewelry
market growth outpacing total jewelry market growth since the recession.
Industry and Company Analysis: Market Summary
In addition, the luxury jewelry market is raising its retail prices to preserve the exclusivity and scarcity effect
without seeing any significant resistance from the customer. This has increased the spread between average
jewelry rsp and luxury jewelry rsp by 15% from 2008-2013
Industry and Company Analysis: Market Summary
Market Sizes | Historic | Retail Value RSP | Unit Price | US$ per units | Current Prices | Year| on| Year Exchange Rates
Geographies Categories 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013
North America
Luxury Jewellery and
Timepieces
$4,079.30 $4,043.90 $4,259.40 $4,477.90 $4,608.60 $4,694.80
North America Jewellery $59.80 $54.70 $54.90 $58.90 $60.60 $60.80
Price gap/spread $4,019.50 $3,989.20 $4,204.50 $4,419.00 $4,548.00 $4,634.00
Price gap/spread increase Y-to-Y -1% 5% 5% 3% 2%
Price gap/spread increase CAGR 5% 10% 13% 15%
Research Sources:
Luxury Goods: Euromonitor from trade sources/national statistics
Personal Accessories: Euromonitor from trade sources/national statistics
Note: Historic regional/global values are the aggregation of local currency country data at current prices converted into the common currency using y-o-y
exchange rates
In 2014 McKinsey & Co. discovered four fast growing trends in the luxury jewelry industry that will have an
impact on Buccellati’s marketing strategy in North America.:
1. Internationalization and Consolidation. The ten biggest jewelry groups capture only 12% of the worldwide
market, globally signaling strong competition from smaller or emerging jewelry brands. Following the
globalization effect, large jewelry houses will start/continue to acquire these smaller brands to reduce
competition and increase their market power. Experts predict that by 2020, the ten largest jewelry houses will
double their market share. Buccellati has already started on this trend when it was acquired by Italian private
equity fund Clessidra. In addition to being able to fight the private equity wars in the luxury market with funds,
Clessidra hired an experienced luxury CEO that will work on developing its presence worldwide.
2. The Growth of Branded Products. “Intricate carving and exquisite setting skills are areas that can be
highlighted to distinguish a brand as the luxury jewelry, as the world becomes ever more branded”. Buccellati
being voted “the most exclusive name in the U.S.” reflects that its brand name commands a sustainable
advantage and is well aligned with the branded movement to create brand extensions. Branded items already
account for 60% of sales in the watch market. This segment has favorable conditions for Buccellati watch
extension.
Industry and Company Analysis: Market Trends
In 2014 McKinsey & Co. discovered four fast growing trends in the luxury jewelry industry that will have an
impact on Buccellati’s marketing strategy in North America.:
3. Reconfigured Channel Landscape. The term omnichannel is gaining popularity in the retail market, however
the online segment for the luxury jewelry market will only be 10% by 2020. The slower online growth in this
segment is due to customer purchasing behavior in the luxury market. Customers need the sensory experience
of brick-and-mortar stores to trigger a purchase. Today, Buccellati has 15 freestanding stores worldwide,
including doors in New York, Chicago, Aspen, and Beverly Hills. Its online channel primarily serves the
purpose of educating the customer on the brand.
4. Hybrid Consumption - This is defined as consumers trading up and down at the same time. "2013 Luxury
Industry Predictions," 2013
Industry and Company Analysis: Market Trends
In 2014 McKinsey & Co. discovered four fast growing trends in the luxury jewelry industry that will have an
impact on Buccellati’s marketing strategy in North America.:
Industry and Company Analysis: Market Trends
Distribution | Historic | Retail Value RSP | % breakdown
Geographies Categories Outlets 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013
North America Jewellery Store-Based Retailing 86.7 86.1 85.2 84.6 83.6 82.7
North America Jewellery Non-Grocery Retailers 84.4 83.6 82.3 81.4 80.3 79.4
North America Jewellery Apparel specialist retailers 8.0 8.1 8.1 7.8 7.7 7.7
North America Jewellery Leisure and personal goods retailers 41.1 40.1 39.5 39.8 39.6 39.4
North America Jewellery Jewellery & Watch Specialist Retailers 40.9 39.9 39.3 39.6 39.5 39.2
North America Jewellery Other Leisure and Personal Goods Specialist Retailers 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2
North America Jewellery Mixed Retailers 35.3 35.3 34.7 33.8 33.0 32.4
North America Jewellery Department Stores 11.4 11.3 11.6 11.4 11.3 11.2
North America Jewellery Mass Merchandisers 21.9 22.1 21.1 20.3 19.7 19.1
North America Jewellery Variety Stores 0.1 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2
North America Jewellery Warehouse Clubs 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.9 1.9 1.8
North America Jewellery Non-Store Retailing 13.3 13.9 14.8 15.4 16.4 17.3
North America Jewellery Direct Selling 1.6 1.7 1.7 1.6 1.6 1.6
North America Jewellery Homeshopping 4.8 4.9 4.7 4.8 4.8 4.8
North America Jewellery Internet Retailing 6.9 7.3 8.4 9.0 10.0 10.9
North America Jewellery Total 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0
Research Sources:
Personal Accessories: Euromonitor fromtrade sources/national statistics
Date Exported (GMT): 02/03/2014 21:07:26
© Euromonitor International
Buccellati can use these trends to build on their developing strategy of targeting younger customer through the
introduction of an entry price point product line. Below we summarize industry’s key trends mentioned above
in relation to Buccellati’s SWOT.
Industry and Company Analysis: Buccellati’s SWOT
A. Strong growth in the fine jewelry sector
B.Lower-priced offering (i.e. younger line) would
be dissonant with Bucelatti's image and dilute the
brand
B. Expand on freestanding stores and focus on
monobrand (vendor-centric model) retail
distribution channel, which gives more control
over the brand presentation, closer contact with
consumers, and higher margin potential
A. future growth in branded jewelry is likely to
come from nonjewelry players in adjacent
categories such as high-end apparel or leather
goods—companies like Dior, Hermès, and
LouisVuitton—introducing jewelry collections or
expanding their assortment.
B. Consumers trading up and down - on
department stores level, Bucilatti's partnership with
Neiman Marcus - threat of Neiman Marcus
waiging price wars with the use of Bucilattis
product.
Strengths Weaknesses
Opportunities Threats
A. Strong Brand name - can stand out in the
growing 'branded industry'
B. Experienced luxury CEO, Thierry Andretta
(ran Celine at LVMH, Gucci Group, and Lanvin)
C. Acquisition by Clessidra - Bucelatti family has
preserved the process and artistry the brand is
known for.
D. In good position to support the launch of
watch collection
A. Limited Channels of distribution: only 15
freestanding stores worldwide
Buccellati’s U.S. marketing strategy will be two-fold. First, Buccellati will increase its market share through the
introduction of lower priced products and new categories, such as engagement and wedding jewelry, watches
and iPhone cases . Close to 50% of Buccellati’s production are one-of-a-kind pieces. The unique pieces require
extensive hours to make, thus limiting production and overall product offering. The most successful line that
Buccellati offers is the Hawaii line.
Focusing on more affordable pieces and new product categories (such as wedding jewelry) will increase the
products available without interfering Buccellati’s distinct process to create its Renaissance-inspired aesthetic.
More importantly, these new product offerings serve to attract potential consumers as well as enable a more
dynamic relationship to engage with the brand.
In 2014, the company signaled a commitment to modernization with the emergence of 24 year-old 4th generation
designer Lucrezia Buccellati. For the brand, it is crucial to foster the family’s involvement to maintain a link to
the brand's heritage. Lucrezia seems to understand the balance of this design partnership and the tradition of
two generations creating the designs, “now it’s my dad and me, before it was my grandfather and father.
Always two generations in the design part. That’s how it works."
Industry and Company Analysis: Distribution & Branding Strategy
The move coincides with the company’s plan to rebrand and make it more appealing to a younger generation, a
campaign that will be rolled out over the course of this year.
This will include its first ever line of engagement rings, bejeweled iPhone covers and further development of
Blossoms, its first sterling silver jewelry collection. According to Lucrezia, the engagement rings will be based on
a contemporary version of the company’s classic honeycomb pattern.
The labor-intensive and time-consuming technique will be a nod to the company’s iconic heritage while entering
a growing category that demands modernization. The iPhone designs will be the most expensive and exclusive
in the world. Blossoms represents a commitment to “sustaining the highest level of design, craftsmanship,
quality and product integrity.” It is a strong initiative and has the potential to build a footprint for the company
moving forward in marrying “Buccellati’s artistic heritage and craftsmanship with designs that are fresh and
fun" according to the website.
While enhancing its appeal to fashion, it is imperative for Blossoms to not compromise Buccellati’s commitment
to lasting beauty and unwavering commitment to “handmade craftsmanship, utilizing pre-industrial
techniques.” While the direction of these initiatives design is markedly trending younger, the company remains
committed to its traditional craftsmanship and works closely with artisans whose partnerships go back
numerous generations. “Our treasure for us is not the jewelry. Our treasure is our artisans,” says Lucrezia.
Industry and Company Analysis: Distribution & Branding Strategy
Sketches of Buccellati’s solitaire engagement ring (unveiled in March 2014)
Industry and Company Analysis: Distribution & Branding Strategy
marrying Buccellati’s artistic heritage and
craftsmanship with designs that are fresh
North America Jewelry Brand Share & Rank, Buccellati’s top 5 competitors are:
Tiffany & Co, Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Harry Winston, Bvlgari
We further summarize their rank in the N.A. jewelry industry and brands AO position.
By looking at competitor’s presence and Buccellati’s lines of offerings in each quadrant, we conclude that:
1) to successfully compete in the North American region (against Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Harry Winston),
Buccellati will need to strengthen the relationship and educate its core fine jewelry customer
2) in the Modern segment with its bridal jewelry competing primarily against Tiffany’s, the silverware
collections will need to emphasize the exclusivity effect to attract the customer’s attention
3) in the Postmodern segment, with an introduction of the iPhone accessories, the brand will need to popularize
its selection with the novice customer
4) in the Wabi-Sabi quadrant, Buccellati will need to build on its museum connections, currently displayed in
Smithsonian Museum, to show its expertise.
Industry and Company Analysis: Competition & the AO Framework
North America Jewelry Brand Share & Rank
Industry and Company Analysis: Competition & the AO Framework
Brand Shares (by Global Brand Name) | Historic | Retail Value RSP | % breakdown
Geographies Categories Brand Company name (GBO) 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2012 RANK Global Sales
North America Jewellery Kay Jewelers Signet Jewelers Ltd 2.3 2.7 2.8 2.8 3.1 1
North America Jewellery Tiffany & Co Tiffany & Co 2.3 2.3 2.5 2.5 2.4 2 $3.79B
North America Jewellery Pandora Pandora A/S 0.4 1.0 1.6 1.6 1.6 3
North America Jewellery Jared the Galleria Signet Jewelers Ltd 1.2 1.3 1.5 1.5 1.5 4
North America Jewellery Zales Zale Corp 1.7 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 5
North America Jewellery Cartier Richemont SA, Cie Financière 0.9 0.8 0.9 0.9 1.1 6 $435.13M
North America Jewellery Claire's Claire's Stores Inc 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 7
North America Jewellery Swarovski Swarovski AG 0.5 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.5 8
North America Jewellery Blue Nile Blue Nile Inc 0.4 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 9
North America Jewellery Van Cleef & Arpels Richemont SA, Cie Financière 0.3 0.3 0.4 0.4 0.4 10 N/A
North America Jewellery Piercing Pagoda Zale Corp 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 11
North America Jewellery Zales Outlet Zale Corp 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 12
North America Jewellery Fossil Fossil Inc - 0.2 0.3 0.3 0.3 13
North America Jewellery Peoples Zale Corp 0.3 0.2 0.3 0.2 0.3 14
North America Jewellery Gordon's Zale Corp 0.4 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.2 15
North America Jewellery Harry Winston Harry Winston Diamond Corp 0.2 0.1 0.2 0.2 0.2 16 $95.76M
North America Jewellery Ben Moss Jewellers Ben Moss Jewellers 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 17
North America Jewellery Birks Regaluxe Investment Sarl 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 18
North America Jewellery Charm Diamond Centres Charm Jewelry Ltd 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 19
North America Jewellery Icing Claire's Stores Inc 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 20
North America Jewellery Bvlgari LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton SA - - - 0.2 0.2 21 $159.45M
North America Jewellery Bvlgari Bulgari SpA 0.2 0.1 0.1 - -
North America Jewellery Graff Graff Diamonds Ltd 0.1 0.2 0.2 0.1 0.2 22
North America Jewellery J Crew J Crew Group Inc 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.2 23
North America Jewellery Avon Avon Products Inc 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.1 0.1 24
North America Jewellery Links of London Links of London Inc 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 25
North America Jewellery Mappins Zale Corp 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 26
North America Jewellery Birks Iniziativa SA - - - - - 27
North America Jewellery Jared the Galleria Signet Group Plc - - - - - 28
North America Jewellery Kay Jewelers Signet Group Plc - - - - - 29
North America Jewellery Private label Private Label 5.3 5.7 5.8 5.7 5.5 30
North America Jewellery Others Others 80.9 79.5 78.1 78.2 78.2 31
North America Jewellery Total Total 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0
Research Sources:
Personal Accessories: Euromonitor from trade sources/national statistics
Note: Historic regional/global values are the aggregation of local currency country data at current prices converted into the common currency using y-o-y exchange rates
Date Exported (GMT): 02/03/2014 21:00:48
© Euromonitor International
AO: Tiffany & Co, Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Harry Winston, Bvlgari & Buccellati
Industry and Company Analysis: Competition & the AO Framework
Buccellati’s product offerings and customer
Industry and Company Analysis: Distribution & Branding Strategy
HERITAGE: ART - Leonardo da Vinci's design
HERITAGE: Handcrafted
HERITAGE: Artistic technique
HERITAGE: original museum pieces
Expertize
Educate
Popularize
Exclusivity
If we refer to the Brand Identity, there should be
distinct positioning of the legacy Buccellati brand
and the new line extensions such as Buccellati
Blossoms. The original Buccellati should keep the
history, artisanship, exclusivity, uniqueness, rarity
and time elements as its key differentiators in
market positioning. The positioning should
continue to cater to the aforementioned woman
with class. The legacy and artisan aspects should
continue to be areas of focus as the history is
something that cannot be copied or replicated.
Buccellati should maintain relationships with high-
end clientele in positions of power, royalty and
celebrity, so those that are suitable for the brand
can be photographed and featured.
Marketing Plan: Positioning
Buccellati
Identity Prism
Internal FacetsExternal Facets
Brand Physique Personality
CultureRelationship
Mode
Customer Reflected
Image
Self-Concept
Constructed Source
Constructed Receiver
Distinct, creative visionary
Italian, Old World,
Family-oriented
I aspire to be exquisiteOne-of-a-kind
Exclusive,
Exquisite
Timeless, elegant,
Unique style
The internal and external facets below establish the
coherence of Bucellati’s brand identity
Print should be limited to publications that cater to high-end personnel. Similar to what exists on the website
today, close-up images of the jewelry and watches should be the main focal point in advertisements because of
the unique, intricate beauty of each piece. VIP sponsorships should only allow a certain few to actually view the
sample collections on hand, to create more distance and exclusivity.
The brand should feature its key historical pieces in limited-time museum exhibits around the world, to enforce
the history and legacy of the brand and act as an expert for the Wabi-Sabi consumer. This would allow two
strategies to take place:
1) the classic consumer to be educated about the brand in a less intimidating way, but further create the
distance;
2) allow the expert to appreciate the beauty of the item itself (the artisan elation experience).
All marketing efforts and promotions should remain distinct from Buccellati Blossoms as much as possible, to
maintain the distance and aspiration the brand has cultivated for generations.
Marketing Plan: Positioning
The new line extensions, like Buccellati Blossoms, should continue to have its own positioning distinct from the
original to be seen as more attainable and to create the necessary distance in avoidance of brand dilution.
Buccellati Blossoms and other more mass line extensions should still speak of the heritage and history, but keep
a different brand persona. By maintaining Lucrezia as the brand persona, a younger female audience would be
attracted because she is more relatable than her ancestors, but still exclusive. As an heir who is young and
attractive, Lucrezia could secure a following among the 20s and 30s targets like other heiresses and socialites (to
actively promote the iPhone accessory in the postmodern quadrant and create a link to the Modern quadrant
items). Because of her stature, she likely has access to exclusive events, parties, exhibits and other social events.
She can chronicle her lifestyle and her jewelry can serve as the bridge between her lifestyle and the target
audiences that aspire to live her Buccellati exclusive lifestyle.
Print for line extensions should be in fashion and lifestyle magazines like Vogue and Elle. There should be
inclusions during the fall and spring fashion issues and promotion during global fashion weeks. The positioning
needs to maintain a high-end approach in order to not become too accessible to the masses and dilute the overall
brand. So selection of events and publications should mirror the essence of Lucrezia; events she attends and
publications she reads.
Marketing Plan: Positioning
According Buccellati's website, “the target is a contemporary woman with class, who likes to live with style and
wear jewels in every occasion with self-assurance. There is empathy between a jewel’s and one’s personality; it
is shown through the various lines of the collection, interpreting the women who decide to wear one of them.”
The target audience to this point has not been a mass audience due to price point, accessibility and time of
production. However, with the branding effort, there will be “more affordable pieces” to be “more appealing to
a younger generation.”
The silver, engagement and iPhone collections should be targeted to women in their 20s and 30s that are career
oriented, social, casual yet refined, and value quality craftsmanship, legacy and trends. The two targets, the
classic Buccellati target and the newer generation target, are globally located.
The recent unveiling of its flagship store in Chicago provides valuable insight into the company’s path forward,
and a template for the shop-in-shop concept at Neiman Marcus in Palm Beach that should be expanded
nationally. The floor of the store will be organized into three areas, including an area highlighting its gold and
precious stone ranges, as well another area devoted to custom-made and “hyper-luxury” jewelry. In an
aggressive attempt to court a more accessible customer, the third section of the floor will use a counter for the
first time to display its most affordable pieces including the silver collection Blossoms. The expansion through
the Blossoms line should remain in the same affluent DMAs that the Buccellati shops are currently located.
Marketing Plan: Target Markets
The company needs to increase brand awareness through an improved communication strategy.
Buccellati’s minimal communication results in low brand awareness within the U.S. (57%) when compared to
competitors such as Cartier (83%) and Van Cleef (69%). Buccellati needs to generate more public relations in the
U.S. through sponsorships, VIP events, branded content and a more modern image expressed in a new logo to
drive awareness. Further, print media will serve to communicate the value of the Buccellati brand through its
high-end jewelry as well as introduce its newer product offerings to consumers.
Next, the brand’s website receives minimal traffic and retention in comparison to competitors. This is a result of
a clunky user experience around disjointed content. The website currently operates like a book, where the user
clicks to turn pages. The 'book' starts with a table of contents, but it is difficult to navigate back to the table of
contents . Buccellati must invest in a new website to attract and educate consumers about the brand and its
luxury products. This new website will showcase Buccellati’s most brilliant, one-of-a-kind pieces, inform
consumers about the brand’s luxury dream through branded video content and allow consumers experience
Buccellati via purchasing nominal jewelry pieces.
The website also needs to include the latest press releases. The press releases listed are from 2005 and 2007. A
third press release is in Italian and looks to describe the ring-making process, but is incomprehensible to an
English speaker. The Press Releases should also include an introduction of Lucrezia Buccellati and the line
extensions she is working on as this is important news for the company and its future direction. Under the
Family section of the website, the three generations of Buccellati men are featured, with no mention of Lucrezia.
Marketing Plan: Brand Awareness
Because Lucrezia is young at age 24 , compared to her predecessors, she should have a personality and lifestyle
that is clearly emulated on website and promotional materials.
Lucrezia Buccellati’s collection Buccellati Blossoms does have its own website, www.buccellatiblossoms.com,
which differentiates the silver collection from the finer jewelry of the main site. This separation of domains
should continue to create a distance between the original Buccellati clientele and the aspirational clientele.
Lucrezia is featured on the website as a model, which should also continue as she should be the persona
associated to the brand extension. However, there is room for improvement on that site as well. Though there is
a video section, there is only one Robb Report video that announces the collection and interviews Lucrezia in a
casual environment. There is opportunity for more lifestyle related video content there with a sexier appeal to
the younger audience.
Marketing Plan: Brand Awareness
Next we summarizes our proposed marketing objectives, strategies and tactics to implement to increase the
brand awareness and target the broad customer segment with customized messages for each customer base (i.e.
in each Buccellati’s AO quadrant). And we further summarize projected marketing program expense. The
program will increase Buccellati’s 2013 marketing spend by 80%, investing the most in VIP events and print
communications in 2014. In the following years, the marketing program will increase between 8% every year.
As Buccellati seeks aggressive growth, its marketing program will grow from 4% of its total revenue to 15% in
2014 and 13% in 2015. Through 2018, Buccellati’s marketing program spend will plateau to be 8% of projected
revenue and will be comparable to other luxury brand communication and marketing spend that ranges from
6% - 11%.
Buccellati’s marketing program revolves around targeted communication to increase its market penetration and
brand awareness through print media, its website, branded content, sponsorships and VIP events. Buccellati’s
print strategy will focus on reach and message frequency to increase its share of voice among competitors.
Communicating in the chosen magazines will place Buccellati in the mind of consumers who have a high
preference and purchase-intent toward luxury brands on a mass and regional scale. Buccellati’s branded video
content will tell the story of the brand in a similar way to Hermes and Cartier; it will also introduce the new logo
and direct people to its new website. Sponsorship of events such as Italian operas at the Metropolitan Opera in
New York City will initiate Buccellati’s association with the arts. Most importantly, VIP events will be held
within its stores and specialty retailers, which will enable clients to experience the Buccellati brand as well as
build intimate relationships with it. Consequently, all of Buccellati’s communication will seek to drive brand
awareness as well as build a larger clientele within the U.S.
Marketing Plan: Brand Awareness
Objective: Increase brand awareness from 57% to 75% by 2017
Strategy:
• Communicate the value of Buccellati brand and jewelry through increased reach and frequent messaging to
consumers
• Modernize the brand image
• Identify and market brand persona for new line extensions
Tactics:
• Use targeted print publications to reach new affluent consumers
• PR from new logo and brand video content and sponsorship of cultural events
• Sponsor jewelry or art exhibits at prominent urban museums (e.g., The Metropolitan Museum of Art) or
feature an exhibit around Buccalletti and its history.
• Leverage Lucrezia Buccellati as the face of the new line extensions in marketing and promotions.
• Carefully selected out of home placements
• Host events and parties during global fashion weeks to celebrate launch of new watch line.
Marketing Plan: Brand Awareness
Objective: Increase new consumer acquisition by 30% by 2017
Strategy:
• Educate consumers about the brand and its jewelry
• Introduce more affordable priced jewelry category
• Enter wedding jewelry category
Tactics:
• Host VIP events for existing and prospective clients to introduce/celebrate new product offerings
• Use targeted print publications to communicate new wedding category
• Make bridal jewelry a new feature on Buccellati website
• Add e-commerce to website feature for smaller jewelry pieces
• Secure high-end bridal atelier and designer partnerships
• Direct mail current clients announcing new line extensions
• Host VIP events geared for current clientele and their adult children around Mothers and Fathers day to
bring in the new line clientele
Marketing Plan: Brand Awareness
Marketing Plan: Marketing Program Financials
Marketing Communication Expense by Channel
2013* % 2014 % 2015 % 2016 % 2017 % 2018 %
Revenue $13,000,000.00 $16,250,000.00 $20,312,500.00 $25,390,625.00 $31,738,281.25 $41,259,765.63
Print 495,400.00$ 100% $ 951,889.00 38% 1,018,521.23$ 38% 1,089,817.72$ 37% 1,166,104.96$ 37% 1,247,732.30$ 37%
% Increase 92% 7% 7% 7% 7%
Digital/Website -$ 0% 298,515.48$ 12% 313,441.25$ 12% 329,113.32$ 11% 345,568.98$ 11% 362,847.43$ 11%
% Increase 100% 5% 5% 5% 5%
Branded Content -$ 0% 124,381.45$ 5% 136,819.60$ 5% 150,501.55$ 5% 165,551.71$ 5% 182,106.88$ 5%
% Increase 100% 10% 10% 10% 10%
Events -$ 0% 995,051.60$ 40% 1,094,556.76$ 41% 1,204,012.44$ 41% 1,324,413.68$ 42% 1,456,855.05$ 43%
% Increase 100% 10% 10% 10% 10%
Sponsorship -$ 0% 124,381.45$ 5% 130,600.52$ 5% 137,130.55$ 5% 143,987.08$ 5% 151,186.43$ 4%
% Increase 100% 5% 5% 5% 5%
Total 495,400.00$ 2,487,629.00$ 100% 2,693,939.36$ 100% 2,910,575.57$ 100% 3,145,626.40$ 100% 3,400,728.09$ 100%
% Increase 80% 8% 8% 8% 8%
% of Revenue 4% 15% 13% 11% 10% 8%
Source: *Kantar Media AdSpender 2013
Print Media Program Total Audience Page Rate Pages Total Spend Average HHI Median Age Male (%) Female (%) % readers prefer to buy luxury
Mass Titles
Vogue 11,524,000 $ 181,286.00 1 $ 181,286.00 $86,128.00 37 13 87 42
Vanity Fair 6,496,000 $ 207,506.00 1 $ 207,506.00 $100,796.00 44 21 79 35
Elle 5,644,000 $ 163,465.00 1 $ 163,465.00 $92,912.00 36 10 90 39
Brides 5,190,000 $ 98,417.00 1 $ 98,417.00 $75,015.00 35 7 93 35
Marie Claire 3,906,000 $ 107,875.00 1 $ 107,875.00 $94,475.00 39 6 94 37
Veranda 1,551,000 $ 56,580.00 1 $ 56,580.00 $118,810.00 51 17 83 49
DMA Titles
Modern Luxury - San Francisco 300,000 $ 12,205.00 2 $ 24,410.00 $313,000.00 47 44 56 n/a
Modern Luxury - Angeleno 262,500 $ 12,205.00 2 $ 24,410.00 $387,000.00 41 51 49 85
Manhattan Magazine 216,000 $ 9,765.00 2 $ 19,530.00 $452,000.00 41 51 49 73
Modern Luxury - DC 210,000 $ 8,135.00 2 $ 16,270.00 $357,000.00 42 35 65 82
Modern Luxury - Miami 210,000 $ 8,135.00 2 $ 16,270.00 $372,800.00 39 45 55 85
Modern Luxury - Dallas 195,000 $ 8,135.00 2 $ 16,270.00 $423,000.00 44 41 59 87
Modern Luxury - NS 180,000 $ 9,800.00 2 $ 19,600.00 $330,500.00 41 33 67 51
Modern Luxury - Aspen 55,000 $ 6,000.00 2 $ 12,000.00 $1,100,000.00 52 49 51 55
35,939,500 22 $ 951,889.00 $307,388.29 41 33 67 52
Sources: SRDS Media Solutions, Modern Luxury Media Kits, MRI Doublebase 2013, MMR Doublebase 2013
Marketing Plan: Marketing Program Financials
Communication/Marketing Expense Comps
2010 2011 2012
Revenue $ 3,085,290,000.00 $ 3,642,937,000.00 $ 3,794,249,000.00
Marketing Expense 197,597,000.00$ 234,050,000.00$ 242,524,000.00$
% of Revenue 6.4% 6.4% 6.4%
Source: Tiffany 10K Report
2011 2012 2013
Revenue $ 9,510,960,000.00 $ 12,237,840,000.00 $ 14,007,000,000.00
Communication Expense 964,620,000.00$ 1,178,520,000.00$ 1,295,820,000.00$
% of Revenue 10.1% 9.6% 9.3%
Source: Richemont Annual Report
2010 2011 2012
Revenue $ 1,067,410,680.00 $ 1,591,091,700.00 $ 1,361,197,500.00
Marketing & Communication 60,851,100.00$ 97,933,080.00$ 80,298,060.00$
% of Revenue 5.7% 6.2% 11.0%
Source: Salvatorre Ferragamo Annual Report
Tiffany & Co.
Richemont
Salvatorre Ferramo
According to Hoover’s, Buccellati’s sales revenues were $13 million in 2012, the lion's share coming from their
high jewelry business. This revenue is in-line with the valuation of $145 million of the Clessidra acquisition,
using a valuation multiple of ten times sales. Andretta has stated the goal is to triple revenues within five years,
which would increase sales to $36 million by 2019. Below is a projected sales forecast by category reflecting
Buccellati's goal of tripling sales over the next five years.
Marketing Plan: Financials
2013 % 2014 % 2015 % 2016 % 2017 % 2018
High jewelry $6,500,000 50% $7,312,500 45% $8,125,000 40% $9,521,484 38% $11,108,398 35% $14,440,918 35%
% growth 13% 11% 17% 17% 30%
Gold/Silver $4,550,000 35% $4,875,000 30% $5,585,938 28% $6,347,656 25% $7,141,113 23% $9,283,447 23%
% growth 7% 15% 14% 13% 30%
Watches $1,950,000 15% $3,250,000 20% $5,078,125 25% $6,347,656 25% $7,934,570 25% $10,314,941 25%
% growth 67% 56% 25% 25% 30%
Bridal - - $406,250 3% $710,938 4% $1,523,438 6% $2,539,063 8% $3,300,781 8%
% growth - 75% 114% 67% 30%
Accessories - - $406,250 3% $812,500 4% $1,523,438 6% $2,856,445 9% $3,713,379 9%
% growth - 100% 88% 88% 30%
Total $13,000,000 100% $16,250,000 100% $20,312,500 100% $25,390,625 100% $31,738,281 100% $41,259,766 100%
Sales Projections by Category
The launch of innovative accessories and wedding jewelry is expected to be a fast growing segment over the
next five years.
Buccellati’s renewed emphasis on watches will also take a larger share of revenues and that business will mature
at 22.5% of sales.
High jewelry represents Buccellati’s “top-of-pyramid” business and this category will remain the bulk of their
business despite the growth of these new segments.
The gold/silver and watches segments will make up the "heart-of-the-range" category.
The new bridal and accessories categories will function as the brand's entry jewelry pieces.
Marketing Plan: Financials
Buccellati’s website does not have a clear mission statement!
This is another opportunity of improvement for Buccellati. However, it does state that “hidden behind a
Buccellati jewel, there is a philosophy which expresses, like in art, an aesthetic choice, defining the canons of a
style: discretion, class, harmony.” Therefore, the recommendation is to incorporate this statement, along with the
generational family aspect to create a mission statement that is clear, succinct and can survive future changes
and line extensions.
An example of a mission statement could be:
“For generations, Buccellati has crafted fine Italian personalized and
incomparable jewelry and watch pieces that express an aesthetic choice, defining
the canons of our style: discretion, class & harmony.”
Marketing Plan: Mission Statement
• “2013 Luxury Industry Predictions from the Experts”, by Sophie Doran, LuxurySociety, 7 Jan 2013,
http://luxurysociety.com/articles/2013/01/2013-luxury-industry-predictions-from-the-experts.
• “A multifaceted future: The jewelry industry in 2020”, Linda Dauriz, Nathalie Remy, and Thomas
Tochtermann, McKinsey & Company, February 2014
• Anthony DeMarco. “Buccellati Launches Rebranding Effort with New Bridal Collection and ‘High-Tech’
Jewels”. www.forbes.com. February 20, 2014. Accessed March 27, 2014
• “Buccellati." Buccelati. N.p., n.d. Web. 29 Mar. 2014. www.buccellati.com
• "Buccellati Blossoms Official Website." Buccellati Blossoms Official Website. N.p., n.d. Web. 29 Mar. 2014.
www.buccellatiblossoms.com
• "Buccellati Ring Collaboration to Debut." WWD. N.p., n.d. Web. 30 Mar. 2014
• “Clessidra Acquires Majority Stake in Buccellati Group”, WWD, March 29, 2013
• "Former Lanvin Head Named CEO of Italian Jeweller Buccellati." - News : Appointments (#340768). N.p., n.d.
Web. 29 Mar. 2014
• "Inside the Secret Ateliers of Buccellati." Vogue English. N.p., n.d. Web. 29 Mar. 2014
• “What is fine jewellery?”,By Dean Millard, Jeweller Magazine, April 24, 2012,
http://www.jewellermagazine.com/Article.aspx?id=2329
• "Uber Luxury: Buccellati : An Excellence of Luxury, for Three Generations !" Uber Luxury: Buccellati : An
Excellence of Luxury, for Three Generations ! N.p., n.d. Web. 31 Mar. 2014.
Bibliography

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REWINDING THE BRAND: BUCCELLATI'S MARKETING PLAN

  • 2. Executive Summary Industry and Company Analysis • Market Summary • Market trends and Buccellati SWOT • Distribution and branding strategy • Competition & the AO framework Marketing Plan • Positioning • Target markets • Brand awareness • Mission Statement Bibliography Table of Contents
  • 3. Buccellati carries the name of its founder, Italian goldsmith Mario Buccellati, and traces its heritage back to the early 18th century. The company opened its first store in 1919, near La Scala Opera House in Milan, and was the first among Italian jewelers to open a shop on Fifth Avenue in New York. As Buccellati gained popularity in handcrafted jewelry with his designs referencing Renaissance art and technique, the clientele list came to include the Vatican and the Royal Courts of Europe. Today Buccellati’s legacy is continued by his family successors who use the original Buccellati technique and design to handcraft luxury jewelry pieces. In 2013 Italian-based private equity firm Clessidra acquired a majority stake in Buccellati, buying 70% of the company for $102.6 million. The transaction was signed directly between Clessidra and the Buccellati Family, who will retain a minority stake in the private enterprise moving forward. A key challenge today is to harmoniously balance the need for Clessidra’s demand for short-term ROI with the long-term responsibility of protecting the brand equity accrued over 200 years of family stewardship. It will be imperative for the 4th generation of the family to modernize the brand successfully, while not abandoning its core values of artistry and excellence. In essence, Buccellati's leaders must find a way to build a bridge between past and future. The new structure of the company took further shape after the acquisition when the company announced Thierry Andretta as its new CEO. Andretta successfully ran luxury brand Celine within LVMH in the late 90’s and most recently headed the luxury brand Lanvin, where he doubled sales during his four years at the helm. According to the article, Andretta will seek to capitalize on Buccellati’s “rich history…its artisanal yet nimble production ability in high jewelry, which accounts for the lion’s share of revenues.” In addition, its new management is looking to grow into new segments. Executive Summary
  • 4. Before exploring the fine jewelry market and assessing its opportunities and threats in regards to Buccellati’s Northern America strategies, we need to ask ourselves the question: “what is fine jewelry?” Dean Millard, the editor of the Jeweler Magazine conducted a debate among industry participants on the definition. While he found that it was nearly impossible to clearly define the term, there were 5 key ideas put forward: 1) “something that is mass produced cannot be classified as ‘fine jewelry” – need for exclusivity; 2) “must be made from fine materials and gems of fine quality and make and assembled with fine skills” – artistry, scarcity and a unique production process 3) price may or may not be a “factor of the definition” – price is not a standard of measure 4) “something made to endure over a long period of time” in terms of desire and material – time relationship 5) the luxury customers would “ultimately decide for each brand” – universal agreement on the brands standing as a luxury fine jeweler. From the above company summary, we conclude that Buccellati brand does possess all these definitions and should be considered in the universe of brands that also incorporate these key traits. Industry and Company Analysis
  • 5. Buccellati definitions of FINE JEWELRY Industry and Company Analysis NO MASS PRODUCTION PRICE IS NOT A FACTOR TIME FINE MATERIAL, SKILL CUSTOMER
  • 6. Industry and Company Analysis Buccellati Universe Fine Jewelry & Museum Items watchesiPhone accessories Silverware Wedding jewelry
  • 7. Even though the global recession still holds a weakened grip on luxury consumer spending, analysts report a strong growth in the fine jewelry sector, with global sales of €148 billion ($204.65 billion) in 2013, and expect the sector to grow at a sustainable rate of 5% to 6% each year, totaling €250 billion ($345.7 billion) by 2020. In North America, luxury jewelry and timepieces represent 20% of the total jewelry industry with fine jewelry market growth outpacing total jewelry market growth since the recession. Industry and Company Analysis: Market Summary
  • 8. In addition, the luxury jewelry market is raising its retail prices to preserve the exclusivity and scarcity effect without seeing any significant resistance from the customer. This has increased the spread between average jewelry rsp and luxury jewelry rsp by 15% from 2008-2013 Industry and Company Analysis: Market Summary Market Sizes | Historic | Retail Value RSP | Unit Price | US$ per units | Current Prices | Year| on| Year Exchange Rates Geographies Categories 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 North America Luxury Jewellery and Timepieces $4,079.30 $4,043.90 $4,259.40 $4,477.90 $4,608.60 $4,694.80 North America Jewellery $59.80 $54.70 $54.90 $58.90 $60.60 $60.80 Price gap/spread $4,019.50 $3,989.20 $4,204.50 $4,419.00 $4,548.00 $4,634.00 Price gap/spread increase Y-to-Y -1% 5% 5% 3% 2% Price gap/spread increase CAGR 5% 10% 13% 15% Research Sources: Luxury Goods: Euromonitor from trade sources/national statistics Personal Accessories: Euromonitor from trade sources/national statistics Note: Historic regional/global values are the aggregation of local currency country data at current prices converted into the common currency using y-o-y exchange rates
  • 9. In 2014 McKinsey & Co. discovered four fast growing trends in the luxury jewelry industry that will have an impact on Buccellati’s marketing strategy in North America.: 1. Internationalization and Consolidation. The ten biggest jewelry groups capture only 12% of the worldwide market, globally signaling strong competition from smaller or emerging jewelry brands. Following the globalization effect, large jewelry houses will start/continue to acquire these smaller brands to reduce competition and increase their market power. Experts predict that by 2020, the ten largest jewelry houses will double their market share. Buccellati has already started on this trend when it was acquired by Italian private equity fund Clessidra. In addition to being able to fight the private equity wars in the luxury market with funds, Clessidra hired an experienced luxury CEO that will work on developing its presence worldwide. 2. The Growth of Branded Products. “Intricate carving and exquisite setting skills are areas that can be highlighted to distinguish a brand as the luxury jewelry, as the world becomes ever more branded”. Buccellati being voted “the most exclusive name in the U.S.” reflects that its brand name commands a sustainable advantage and is well aligned with the branded movement to create brand extensions. Branded items already account for 60% of sales in the watch market. This segment has favorable conditions for Buccellati watch extension. Industry and Company Analysis: Market Trends
  • 10. In 2014 McKinsey & Co. discovered four fast growing trends in the luxury jewelry industry that will have an impact on Buccellati’s marketing strategy in North America.: 3. Reconfigured Channel Landscape. The term omnichannel is gaining popularity in the retail market, however the online segment for the luxury jewelry market will only be 10% by 2020. The slower online growth in this segment is due to customer purchasing behavior in the luxury market. Customers need the sensory experience of brick-and-mortar stores to trigger a purchase. Today, Buccellati has 15 freestanding stores worldwide, including doors in New York, Chicago, Aspen, and Beverly Hills. Its online channel primarily serves the purpose of educating the customer on the brand. 4. Hybrid Consumption - This is defined as consumers trading up and down at the same time. "2013 Luxury Industry Predictions," 2013 Industry and Company Analysis: Market Trends
  • 11. In 2014 McKinsey & Co. discovered four fast growing trends in the luxury jewelry industry that will have an impact on Buccellati’s marketing strategy in North America.: Industry and Company Analysis: Market Trends Distribution | Historic | Retail Value RSP | % breakdown Geographies Categories Outlets 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 North America Jewellery Store-Based Retailing 86.7 86.1 85.2 84.6 83.6 82.7 North America Jewellery Non-Grocery Retailers 84.4 83.6 82.3 81.4 80.3 79.4 North America Jewellery Apparel specialist retailers 8.0 8.1 8.1 7.8 7.7 7.7 North America Jewellery Leisure and personal goods retailers 41.1 40.1 39.5 39.8 39.6 39.4 North America Jewellery Jewellery & Watch Specialist Retailers 40.9 39.9 39.3 39.6 39.5 39.2 North America Jewellery Other Leisure and Personal Goods Specialist Retailers 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 North America Jewellery Mixed Retailers 35.3 35.3 34.7 33.8 33.0 32.4 North America Jewellery Department Stores 11.4 11.3 11.6 11.4 11.3 11.2 North America Jewellery Mass Merchandisers 21.9 22.1 21.1 20.3 19.7 19.1 North America Jewellery Variety Stores 0.1 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 North America Jewellery Warehouse Clubs 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.9 1.9 1.8 North America Jewellery Non-Store Retailing 13.3 13.9 14.8 15.4 16.4 17.3 North America Jewellery Direct Selling 1.6 1.7 1.7 1.6 1.6 1.6 North America Jewellery Homeshopping 4.8 4.9 4.7 4.8 4.8 4.8 North America Jewellery Internet Retailing 6.9 7.3 8.4 9.0 10.0 10.9 North America Jewellery Total 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 Research Sources: Personal Accessories: Euromonitor fromtrade sources/national statistics Date Exported (GMT): 02/03/2014 21:07:26 © Euromonitor International
  • 12. Buccellati can use these trends to build on their developing strategy of targeting younger customer through the introduction of an entry price point product line. Below we summarize industry’s key trends mentioned above in relation to Buccellati’s SWOT. Industry and Company Analysis: Buccellati’s SWOT A. Strong growth in the fine jewelry sector B.Lower-priced offering (i.e. younger line) would be dissonant with Bucelatti's image and dilute the brand B. Expand on freestanding stores and focus on monobrand (vendor-centric model) retail distribution channel, which gives more control over the brand presentation, closer contact with consumers, and higher margin potential A. future growth in branded jewelry is likely to come from nonjewelry players in adjacent categories such as high-end apparel or leather goods—companies like Dior, Hermès, and LouisVuitton—introducing jewelry collections or expanding their assortment. B. Consumers trading up and down - on department stores level, Bucilatti's partnership with Neiman Marcus - threat of Neiman Marcus waiging price wars with the use of Bucilattis product. Strengths Weaknesses Opportunities Threats A. Strong Brand name - can stand out in the growing 'branded industry' B. Experienced luxury CEO, Thierry Andretta (ran Celine at LVMH, Gucci Group, and Lanvin) C. Acquisition by Clessidra - Bucelatti family has preserved the process and artistry the brand is known for. D. In good position to support the launch of watch collection A. Limited Channels of distribution: only 15 freestanding stores worldwide
  • 13. Buccellati’s U.S. marketing strategy will be two-fold. First, Buccellati will increase its market share through the introduction of lower priced products and new categories, such as engagement and wedding jewelry, watches and iPhone cases . Close to 50% of Buccellati’s production are one-of-a-kind pieces. The unique pieces require extensive hours to make, thus limiting production and overall product offering. The most successful line that Buccellati offers is the Hawaii line. Focusing on more affordable pieces and new product categories (such as wedding jewelry) will increase the products available without interfering Buccellati’s distinct process to create its Renaissance-inspired aesthetic. More importantly, these new product offerings serve to attract potential consumers as well as enable a more dynamic relationship to engage with the brand. In 2014, the company signaled a commitment to modernization with the emergence of 24 year-old 4th generation designer Lucrezia Buccellati. For the brand, it is crucial to foster the family’s involvement to maintain a link to the brand's heritage. Lucrezia seems to understand the balance of this design partnership and the tradition of two generations creating the designs, “now it’s my dad and me, before it was my grandfather and father. Always two generations in the design part. That’s how it works." Industry and Company Analysis: Distribution & Branding Strategy
  • 14. The move coincides with the company’s plan to rebrand and make it more appealing to a younger generation, a campaign that will be rolled out over the course of this year. This will include its first ever line of engagement rings, bejeweled iPhone covers and further development of Blossoms, its first sterling silver jewelry collection. According to Lucrezia, the engagement rings will be based on a contemporary version of the company’s classic honeycomb pattern. The labor-intensive and time-consuming technique will be a nod to the company’s iconic heritage while entering a growing category that demands modernization. The iPhone designs will be the most expensive and exclusive in the world. Blossoms represents a commitment to “sustaining the highest level of design, craftsmanship, quality and product integrity.” It is a strong initiative and has the potential to build a footprint for the company moving forward in marrying “Buccellati’s artistic heritage and craftsmanship with designs that are fresh and fun" according to the website. While enhancing its appeal to fashion, it is imperative for Blossoms to not compromise Buccellati’s commitment to lasting beauty and unwavering commitment to “handmade craftsmanship, utilizing pre-industrial techniques.” While the direction of these initiatives design is markedly trending younger, the company remains committed to its traditional craftsmanship and works closely with artisans whose partnerships go back numerous generations. “Our treasure for us is not the jewelry. Our treasure is our artisans,” says Lucrezia. Industry and Company Analysis: Distribution & Branding Strategy
  • 15. Sketches of Buccellati’s solitaire engagement ring (unveiled in March 2014) Industry and Company Analysis: Distribution & Branding Strategy marrying Buccellati’s artistic heritage and craftsmanship with designs that are fresh
  • 16. North America Jewelry Brand Share & Rank, Buccellati’s top 5 competitors are: Tiffany & Co, Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Harry Winston, Bvlgari We further summarize their rank in the N.A. jewelry industry and brands AO position. By looking at competitor’s presence and Buccellati’s lines of offerings in each quadrant, we conclude that: 1) to successfully compete in the North American region (against Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Harry Winston), Buccellati will need to strengthen the relationship and educate its core fine jewelry customer 2) in the Modern segment with its bridal jewelry competing primarily against Tiffany’s, the silverware collections will need to emphasize the exclusivity effect to attract the customer’s attention 3) in the Postmodern segment, with an introduction of the iPhone accessories, the brand will need to popularize its selection with the novice customer 4) in the Wabi-Sabi quadrant, Buccellati will need to build on its museum connections, currently displayed in Smithsonian Museum, to show its expertise. Industry and Company Analysis: Competition & the AO Framework
  • 17. North America Jewelry Brand Share & Rank Industry and Company Analysis: Competition & the AO Framework Brand Shares (by Global Brand Name) | Historic | Retail Value RSP | % breakdown Geographies Categories Brand Company name (GBO) 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2012 RANK Global Sales North America Jewellery Kay Jewelers Signet Jewelers Ltd 2.3 2.7 2.8 2.8 3.1 1 North America Jewellery Tiffany & Co Tiffany & Co 2.3 2.3 2.5 2.5 2.4 2 $3.79B North America Jewellery Pandora Pandora A/S 0.4 1.0 1.6 1.6 1.6 3 North America Jewellery Jared the Galleria Signet Jewelers Ltd 1.2 1.3 1.5 1.5 1.5 4 North America Jewellery Zales Zale Corp 1.7 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 5 North America Jewellery Cartier Richemont SA, Cie Financière 0.9 0.8 0.9 0.9 1.1 6 $435.13M North America Jewellery Claire's Claire's Stores Inc 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 7 North America Jewellery Swarovski Swarovski AG 0.5 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.5 8 North America Jewellery Blue Nile Blue Nile Inc 0.4 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 9 North America Jewellery Van Cleef & Arpels Richemont SA, Cie Financière 0.3 0.3 0.4 0.4 0.4 10 N/A North America Jewellery Piercing Pagoda Zale Corp 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 11 North America Jewellery Zales Outlet Zale Corp 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 12 North America Jewellery Fossil Fossil Inc - 0.2 0.3 0.3 0.3 13 North America Jewellery Peoples Zale Corp 0.3 0.2 0.3 0.2 0.3 14 North America Jewellery Gordon's Zale Corp 0.4 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.2 15 North America Jewellery Harry Winston Harry Winston Diamond Corp 0.2 0.1 0.2 0.2 0.2 16 $95.76M North America Jewellery Ben Moss Jewellers Ben Moss Jewellers 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 17 North America Jewellery Birks Regaluxe Investment Sarl 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 18 North America Jewellery Charm Diamond Centres Charm Jewelry Ltd 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 19 North America Jewellery Icing Claire's Stores Inc 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 20 North America Jewellery Bvlgari LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton SA - - - 0.2 0.2 21 $159.45M North America Jewellery Bvlgari Bulgari SpA 0.2 0.1 0.1 - - North America Jewellery Graff Graff Diamonds Ltd 0.1 0.2 0.2 0.1 0.2 22 North America Jewellery J Crew J Crew Group Inc 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.2 23 North America Jewellery Avon Avon Products Inc 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.1 0.1 24 North America Jewellery Links of London Links of London Inc 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 25 North America Jewellery Mappins Zale Corp 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 26 North America Jewellery Birks Iniziativa SA - - - - - 27 North America Jewellery Jared the Galleria Signet Group Plc - - - - - 28 North America Jewellery Kay Jewelers Signet Group Plc - - - - - 29 North America Jewellery Private label Private Label 5.3 5.7 5.8 5.7 5.5 30 North America Jewellery Others Others 80.9 79.5 78.1 78.2 78.2 31 North America Jewellery Total Total 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 Research Sources: Personal Accessories: Euromonitor from trade sources/national statistics Note: Historic regional/global values are the aggregation of local currency country data at current prices converted into the common currency using y-o-y exchange rates Date Exported (GMT): 02/03/2014 21:00:48 © Euromonitor International
  • 18. AO: Tiffany & Co, Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Harry Winston, Bvlgari & Buccellati Industry and Company Analysis: Competition & the AO Framework
  • 19. Buccellati’s product offerings and customer Industry and Company Analysis: Distribution & Branding Strategy HERITAGE: ART - Leonardo da Vinci's design HERITAGE: Handcrafted HERITAGE: Artistic technique HERITAGE: original museum pieces Expertize Educate Popularize Exclusivity
  • 20. If we refer to the Brand Identity, there should be distinct positioning of the legacy Buccellati brand and the new line extensions such as Buccellati Blossoms. The original Buccellati should keep the history, artisanship, exclusivity, uniqueness, rarity and time elements as its key differentiators in market positioning. The positioning should continue to cater to the aforementioned woman with class. The legacy and artisan aspects should continue to be areas of focus as the history is something that cannot be copied or replicated. Buccellati should maintain relationships with high- end clientele in positions of power, royalty and celebrity, so those that are suitable for the brand can be photographed and featured. Marketing Plan: Positioning Buccellati Identity Prism Internal FacetsExternal Facets Brand Physique Personality CultureRelationship Mode Customer Reflected Image Self-Concept Constructed Source Constructed Receiver Distinct, creative visionary Italian, Old World, Family-oriented I aspire to be exquisiteOne-of-a-kind Exclusive, Exquisite Timeless, elegant, Unique style The internal and external facets below establish the coherence of Bucellati’s brand identity
  • 21. Print should be limited to publications that cater to high-end personnel. Similar to what exists on the website today, close-up images of the jewelry and watches should be the main focal point in advertisements because of the unique, intricate beauty of each piece. VIP sponsorships should only allow a certain few to actually view the sample collections on hand, to create more distance and exclusivity. The brand should feature its key historical pieces in limited-time museum exhibits around the world, to enforce the history and legacy of the brand and act as an expert for the Wabi-Sabi consumer. This would allow two strategies to take place: 1) the classic consumer to be educated about the brand in a less intimidating way, but further create the distance; 2) allow the expert to appreciate the beauty of the item itself (the artisan elation experience). All marketing efforts and promotions should remain distinct from Buccellati Blossoms as much as possible, to maintain the distance and aspiration the brand has cultivated for generations. Marketing Plan: Positioning
  • 22. The new line extensions, like Buccellati Blossoms, should continue to have its own positioning distinct from the original to be seen as more attainable and to create the necessary distance in avoidance of brand dilution. Buccellati Blossoms and other more mass line extensions should still speak of the heritage and history, but keep a different brand persona. By maintaining Lucrezia as the brand persona, a younger female audience would be attracted because she is more relatable than her ancestors, but still exclusive. As an heir who is young and attractive, Lucrezia could secure a following among the 20s and 30s targets like other heiresses and socialites (to actively promote the iPhone accessory in the postmodern quadrant and create a link to the Modern quadrant items). Because of her stature, she likely has access to exclusive events, parties, exhibits and other social events. She can chronicle her lifestyle and her jewelry can serve as the bridge between her lifestyle and the target audiences that aspire to live her Buccellati exclusive lifestyle. Print for line extensions should be in fashion and lifestyle magazines like Vogue and Elle. There should be inclusions during the fall and spring fashion issues and promotion during global fashion weeks. The positioning needs to maintain a high-end approach in order to not become too accessible to the masses and dilute the overall brand. So selection of events and publications should mirror the essence of Lucrezia; events she attends and publications she reads. Marketing Plan: Positioning
  • 23. According Buccellati's website, “the target is a contemporary woman with class, who likes to live with style and wear jewels in every occasion with self-assurance. There is empathy between a jewel’s and one’s personality; it is shown through the various lines of the collection, interpreting the women who decide to wear one of them.” The target audience to this point has not been a mass audience due to price point, accessibility and time of production. However, with the branding effort, there will be “more affordable pieces” to be “more appealing to a younger generation.” The silver, engagement and iPhone collections should be targeted to women in their 20s and 30s that are career oriented, social, casual yet refined, and value quality craftsmanship, legacy and trends. The two targets, the classic Buccellati target and the newer generation target, are globally located. The recent unveiling of its flagship store in Chicago provides valuable insight into the company’s path forward, and a template for the shop-in-shop concept at Neiman Marcus in Palm Beach that should be expanded nationally. The floor of the store will be organized into three areas, including an area highlighting its gold and precious stone ranges, as well another area devoted to custom-made and “hyper-luxury” jewelry. In an aggressive attempt to court a more accessible customer, the third section of the floor will use a counter for the first time to display its most affordable pieces including the silver collection Blossoms. The expansion through the Blossoms line should remain in the same affluent DMAs that the Buccellati shops are currently located. Marketing Plan: Target Markets
  • 24. The company needs to increase brand awareness through an improved communication strategy. Buccellati’s minimal communication results in low brand awareness within the U.S. (57%) when compared to competitors such as Cartier (83%) and Van Cleef (69%). Buccellati needs to generate more public relations in the U.S. through sponsorships, VIP events, branded content and a more modern image expressed in a new logo to drive awareness. Further, print media will serve to communicate the value of the Buccellati brand through its high-end jewelry as well as introduce its newer product offerings to consumers. Next, the brand’s website receives minimal traffic and retention in comparison to competitors. This is a result of a clunky user experience around disjointed content. The website currently operates like a book, where the user clicks to turn pages. The 'book' starts with a table of contents, but it is difficult to navigate back to the table of contents . Buccellati must invest in a new website to attract and educate consumers about the brand and its luxury products. This new website will showcase Buccellati’s most brilliant, one-of-a-kind pieces, inform consumers about the brand’s luxury dream through branded video content and allow consumers experience Buccellati via purchasing nominal jewelry pieces. The website also needs to include the latest press releases. The press releases listed are from 2005 and 2007. A third press release is in Italian and looks to describe the ring-making process, but is incomprehensible to an English speaker. The Press Releases should also include an introduction of Lucrezia Buccellati and the line extensions she is working on as this is important news for the company and its future direction. Under the Family section of the website, the three generations of Buccellati men are featured, with no mention of Lucrezia. Marketing Plan: Brand Awareness
  • 25. Because Lucrezia is young at age 24 , compared to her predecessors, she should have a personality and lifestyle that is clearly emulated on website and promotional materials. Lucrezia Buccellati’s collection Buccellati Blossoms does have its own website, www.buccellatiblossoms.com, which differentiates the silver collection from the finer jewelry of the main site. This separation of domains should continue to create a distance between the original Buccellati clientele and the aspirational clientele. Lucrezia is featured on the website as a model, which should also continue as she should be the persona associated to the brand extension. However, there is room for improvement on that site as well. Though there is a video section, there is only one Robb Report video that announces the collection and interviews Lucrezia in a casual environment. There is opportunity for more lifestyle related video content there with a sexier appeal to the younger audience. Marketing Plan: Brand Awareness
  • 26. Next we summarizes our proposed marketing objectives, strategies and tactics to implement to increase the brand awareness and target the broad customer segment with customized messages for each customer base (i.e. in each Buccellati’s AO quadrant). And we further summarize projected marketing program expense. The program will increase Buccellati’s 2013 marketing spend by 80%, investing the most in VIP events and print communications in 2014. In the following years, the marketing program will increase between 8% every year. As Buccellati seeks aggressive growth, its marketing program will grow from 4% of its total revenue to 15% in 2014 and 13% in 2015. Through 2018, Buccellati’s marketing program spend will plateau to be 8% of projected revenue and will be comparable to other luxury brand communication and marketing spend that ranges from 6% - 11%. Buccellati’s marketing program revolves around targeted communication to increase its market penetration and brand awareness through print media, its website, branded content, sponsorships and VIP events. Buccellati’s print strategy will focus on reach and message frequency to increase its share of voice among competitors. Communicating in the chosen magazines will place Buccellati in the mind of consumers who have a high preference and purchase-intent toward luxury brands on a mass and regional scale. Buccellati’s branded video content will tell the story of the brand in a similar way to Hermes and Cartier; it will also introduce the new logo and direct people to its new website. Sponsorship of events such as Italian operas at the Metropolitan Opera in New York City will initiate Buccellati’s association with the arts. Most importantly, VIP events will be held within its stores and specialty retailers, which will enable clients to experience the Buccellati brand as well as build intimate relationships with it. Consequently, all of Buccellati’s communication will seek to drive brand awareness as well as build a larger clientele within the U.S. Marketing Plan: Brand Awareness
  • 27. Objective: Increase brand awareness from 57% to 75% by 2017 Strategy: • Communicate the value of Buccellati brand and jewelry through increased reach and frequent messaging to consumers • Modernize the brand image • Identify and market brand persona for new line extensions Tactics: • Use targeted print publications to reach new affluent consumers • PR from new logo and brand video content and sponsorship of cultural events • Sponsor jewelry or art exhibits at prominent urban museums (e.g., The Metropolitan Museum of Art) or feature an exhibit around Buccalletti and its history. • Leverage Lucrezia Buccellati as the face of the new line extensions in marketing and promotions. • Carefully selected out of home placements • Host events and parties during global fashion weeks to celebrate launch of new watch line. Marketing Plan: Brand Awareness
  • 28. Objective: Increase new consumer acquisition by 30% by 2017 Strategy: • Educate consumers about the brand and its jewelry • Introduce more affordable priced jewelry category • Enter wedding jewelry category Tactics: • Host VIP events for existing and prospective clients to introduce/celebrate new product offerings • Use targeted print publications to communicate new wedding category • Make bridal jewelry a new feature on Buccellati website • Add e-commerce to website feature for smaller jewelry pieces • Secure high-end bridal atelier and designer partnerships • Direct mail current clients announcing new line extensions • Host VIP events geared for current clientele and their adult children around Mothers and Fathers day to bring in the new line clientele Marketing Plan: Brand Awareness
  • 29. Marketing Plan: Marketing Program Financials Marketing Communication Expense by Channel 2013* % 2014 % 2015 % 2016 % 2017 % 2018 % Revenue $13,000,000.00 $16,250,000.00 $20,312,500.00 $25,390,625.00 $31,738,281.25 $41,259,765.63 Print 495,400.00$ 100% $ 951,889.00 38% 1,018,521.23$ 38% 1,089,817.72$ 37% 1,166,104.96$ 37% 1,247,732.30$ 37% % Increase 92% 7% 7% 7% 7% Digital/Website -$ 0% 298,515.48$ 12% 313,441.25$ 12% 329,113.32$ 11% 345,568.98$ 11% 362,847.43$ 11% % Increase 100% 5% 5% 5% 5% Branded Content -$ 0% 124,381.45$ 5% 136,819.60$ 5% 150,501.55$ 5% 165,551.71$ 5% 182,106.88$ 5% % Increase 100% 10% 10% 10% 10% Events -$ 0% 995,051.60$ 40% 1,094,556.76$ 41% 1,204,012.44$ 41% 1,324,413.68$ 42% 1,456,855.05$ 43% % Increase 100% 10% 10% 10% 10% Sponsorship -$ 0% 124,381.45$ 5% 130,600.52$ 5% 137,130.55$ 5% 143,987.08$ 5% 151,186.43$ 4% % Increase 100% 5% 5% 5% 5% Total 495,400.00$ 2,487,629.00$ 100% 2,693,939.36$ 100% 2,910,575.57$ 100% 3,145,626.40$ 100% 3,400,728.09$ 100% % Increase 80% 8% 8% 8% 8% % of Revenue 4% 15% 13% 11% 10% 8% Source: *Kantar Media AdSpender 2013 Print Media Program Total Audience Page Rate Pages Total Spend Average HHI Median Age Male (%) Female (%) % readers prefer to buy luxury Mass Titles Vogue 11,524,000 $ 181,286.00 1 $ 181,286.00 $86,128.00 37 13 87 42 Vanity Fair 6,496,000 $ 207,506.00 1 $ 207,506.00 $100,796.00 44 21 79 35 Elle 5,644,000 $ 163,465.00 1 $ 163,465.00 $92,912.00 36 10 90 39 Brides 5,190,000 $ 98,417.00 1 $ 98,417.00 $75,015.00 35 7 93 35 Marie Claire 3,906,000 $ 107,875.00 1 $ 107,875.00 $94,475.00 39 6 94 37 Veranda 1,551,000 $ 56,580.00 1 $ 56,580.00 $118,810.00 51 17 83 49 DMA Titles Modern Luxury - San Francisco 300,000 $ 12,205.00 2 $ 24,410.00 $313,000.00 47 44 56 n/a Modern Luxury - Angeleno 262,500 $ 12,205.00 2 $ 24,410.00 $387,000.00 41 51 49 85 Manhattan Magazine 216,000 $ 9,765.00 2 $ 19,530.00 $452,000.00 41 51 49 73 Modern Luxury - DC 210,000 $ 8,135.00 2 $ 16,270.00 $357,000.00 42 35 65 82 Modern Luxury - Miami 210,000 $ 8,135.00 2 $ 16,270.00 $372,800.00 39 45 55 85 Modern Luxury - Dallas 195,000 $ 8,135.00 2 $ 16,270.00 $423,000.00 44 41 59 87 Modern Luxury - NS 180,000 $ 9,800.00 2 $ 19,600.00 $330,500.00 41 33 67 51 Modern Luxury - Aspen 55,000 $ 6,000.00 2 $ 12,000.00 $1,100,000.00 52 49 51 55 35,939,500 22 $ 951,889.00 $307,388.29 41 33 67 52 Sources: SRDS Media Solutions, Modern Luxury Media Kits, MRI Doublebase 2013, MMR Doublebase 2013
  • 30. Marketing Plan: Marketing Program Financials Communication/Marketing Expense Comps 2010 2011 2012 Revenue $ 3,085,290,000.00 $ 3,642,937,000.00 $ 3,794,249,000.00 Marketing Expense 197,597,000.00$ 234,050,000.00$ 242,524,000.00$ % of Revenue 6.4% 6.4% 6.4% Source: Tiffany 10K Report 2011 2012 2013 Revenue $ 9,510,960,000.00 $ 12,237,840,000.00 $ 14,007,000,000.00 Communication Expense 964,620,000.00$ 1,178,520,000.00$ 1,295,820,000.00$ % of Revenue 10.1% 9.6% 9.3% Source: Richemont Annual Report 2010 2011 2012 Revenue $ 1,067,410,680.00 $ 1,591,091,700.00 $ 1,361,197,500.00 Marketing & Communication 60,851,100.00$ 97,933,080.00$ 80,298,060.00$ % of Revenue 5.7% 6.2% 11.0% Source: Salvatorre Ferragamo Annual Report Tiffany & Co. Richemont Salvatorre Ferramo
  • 31. According to Hoover’s, Buccellati’s sales revenues were $13 million in 2012, the lion's share coming from their high jewelry business. This revenue is in-line with the valuation of $145 million of the Clessidra acquisition, using a valuation multiple of ten times sales. Andretta has stated the goal is to triple revenues within five years, which would increase sales to $36 million by 2019. Below is a projected sales forecast by category reflecting Buccellati's goal of tripling sales over the next five years. Marketing Plan: Financials 2013 % 2014 % 2015 % 2016 % 2017 % 2018 High jewelry $6,500,000 50% $7,312,500 45% $8,125,000 40% $9,521,484 38% $11,108,398 35% $14,440,918 35% % growth 13% 11% 17% 17% 30% Gold/Silver $4,550,000 35% $4,875,000 30% $5,585,938 28% $6,347,656 25% $7,141,113 23% $9,283,447 23% % growth 7% 15% 14% 13% 30% Watches $1,950,000 15% $3,250,000 20% $5,078,125 25% $6,347,656 25% $7,934,570 25% $10,314,941 25% % growth 67% 56% 25% 25% 30% Bridal - - $406,250 3% $710,938 4% $1,523,438 6% $2,539,063 8% $3,300,781 8% % growth - 75% 114% 67% 30% Accessories - - $406,250 3% $812,500 4% $1,523,438 6% $2,856,445 9% $3,713,379 9% % growth - 100% 88% 88% 30% Total $13,000,000 100% $16,250,000 100% $20,312,500 100% $25,390,625 100% $31,738,281 100% $41,259,766 100% Sales Projections by Category
  • 32. The launch of innovative accessories and wedding jewelry is expected to be a fast growing segment over the next five years. Buccellati’s renewed emphasis on watches will also take a larger share of revenues and that business will mature at 22.5% of sales. High jewelry represents Buccellati’s “top-of-pyramid” business and this category will remain the bulk of their business despite the growth of these new segments. The gold/silver and watches segments will make up the "heart-of-the-range" category. The new bridal and accessories categories will function as the brand's entry jewelry pieces. Marketing Plan: Financials
  • 33. Buccellati’s website does not have a clear mission statement! This is another opportunity of improvement for Buccellati. However, it does state that “hidden behind a Buccellati jewel, there is a philosophy which expresses, like in art, an aesthetic choice, defining the canons of a style: discretion, class, harmony.” Therefore, the recommendation is to incorporate this statement, along with the generational family aspect to create a mission statement that is clear, succinct and can survive future changes and line extensions. An example of a mission statement could be: “For generations, Buccellati has crafted fine Italian personalized and incomparable jewelry and watch pieces that express an aesthetic choice, defining the canons of our style: discretion, class & harmony.” Marketing Plan: Mission Statement
  • 34. • “2013 Luxury Industry Predictions from the Experts”, by Sophie Doran, LuxurySociety, 7 Jan 2013, http://luxurysociety.com/articles/2013/01/2013-luxury-industry-predictions-from-the-experts. • “A multifaceted future: The jewelry industry in 2020”, Linda Dauriz, Nathalie Remy, and Thomas Tochtermann, McKinsey & Company, February 2014 • Anthony DeMarco. “Buccellati Launches Rebranding Effort with New Bridal Collection and ‘High-Tech’ Jewels”. www.forbes.com. February 20, 2014. Accessed March 27, 2014 • “Buccellati." Buccelati. N.p., n.d. Web. 29 Mar. 2014. www.buccellati.com • "Buccellati Blossoms Official Website." Buccellati Blossoms Official Website. N.p., n.d. Web. 29 Mar. 2014. www.buccellatiblossoms.com • "Buccellati Ring Collaboration to Debut." WWD. N.p., n.d. Web. 30 Mar. 2014 • “Clessidra Acquires Majority Stake in Buccellati Group”, WWD, March 29, 2013 • "Former Lanvin Head Named CEO of Italian Jeweller Buccellati." - News : Appointments (#340768). N.p., n.d. Web. 29 Mar. 2014 • "Inside the Secret Ateliers of Buccellati." Vogue English. N.p., n.d. Web. 29 Mar. 2014 • “What is fine jewellery?”,By Dean Millard, Jeweller Magazine, April 24, 2012, http://www.jewellermagazine.com/Article.aspx?id=2329 • "Uber Luxury: Buccellati : An Excellence of Luxury, for Three Generations !" Uber Luxury: Buccellati : An Excellence of Luxury, for Three Generations ! N.p., n.d. Web. 31 Mar. 2014. Bibliography