9. • Large load-bearing capacity
High insulation rating (R33)
Fire proof
Uses subsoil (not topsoil)
Saves trees
High sound resistance
Insect proof and Rodent proof
Thermal mass – stabilizes air temperature
Sustainable for 1000+ years
Thickness of walls gives a solid feeling to the building
Shields from harmful electromagnetic fields and radiation
Lowers cost of heating
Uses local materials for walls
Cost comparable to conventional construction
Indoor air quality
20. construction
• With rammed earth techniques, moist earth
• is poured into a formwork in layers of to 15
• cm thick, and then compacted by ramming.
• The formwork usually consists of two parallel
• walls separated and interconnected by
• spacers
21.
22.
23. • In comparison with wet loam techniques
• the shrinkage ratio of rammed earth is much
lower, and strength much higher.
• In comparison with adobe masonry ,
• rammed earth –since it is monolithic –
provides the advantage of longer life.
24. formwork
• With traditional formworks, the boards on
• both sides are held apart and kept together
• by spacers
• These spacers pierce the
• wall, causing openings that must be filled
• in after removal of formwork.
• A system with
• very thin tensile spacers (4 x 6 mm) penetrating
• the wall has been developed at the
• Building Research Laboratory
25.
26.
27. • In order to completely eliminate this disadvantage,
• spacer-free systems have been developed
• With a special formwork, rounded corners
• and curved walls can also be formed
• In Europe, timber
• panels of 19 mm thickness are commonly
• used. They need to be stiffened by vertical
• members at approximately 75 cm intervals.
• If this is not done, they will bend outwards
• during ramming.
28.
29. • it might be
• more economical to choose thicker boards
• of 30 to 45 mm thickness, which need
stiffening
• only at intervals of 100 to 150 cm.
30. • In former times, earth was rammed manually,
• using rams with conical, wedge-shaped
• or flat bases
31. • However, this takes
• more time than ramming with flat-based
• rams. Walls rammed with flat-based rams
• show less lateral shear resistance and
therefore
• should only be loaded vertically.
32. • The base of the ram should not be too
• sharp, so that the formwork, if made of timber,
• is not damaged. The base should be
• no smaller than 60 cm2, and no larger than
• 200 cm2. The weight of the ram should
• be between 5 and 9 kg. It is preferable to
• use a two-headed ram with a round head
• on one side and a square one on the other.
33. • a layer of lime mortar
• above each course before laying a new one
• A lime mortar cures over several weeks and
• remains plastic until the loam has stopped
• shrinking; sometimes even the side joint
• between sections of the course is made
• with mortar at an incline
34. • Another method to avoiding horizontal
• shrinkage cracks is to ram in a way that the
• wall is produced vertically.
35. • In order to prevent horizontal shrinkage
• cracks at the vertical joints in traditional
• rammed earth construction, a new technique
• was developed at the BRL for producing
• one-storey-height panels, with widths
• of up to 2.4 m, in a continuous ramming
• process. This technique avoids horizontal
• joints, and the vertical joints that occur are
• closed only after the shrinkage is complete.
36.
37. • For lateral stability, the vertical joints are
• made in a tongue-in-groove pattern.
44. • An interesting variation on rammed earth was developed in
British Columbia, called SIREwall,
• which stands for Stabalized, Insulated Rammed Earth wall.
• In their process, a piece of foam insulation of the desired
thickness is placed vertically in the center of the form and
the rammed earth is placed on either side around
reinforcing rebar and then tamped down using custom
selected mechanical tampers.
• This creates a wall that has an insulated core, but has the
thermal mass exposed on the interior and a durable
rammed earth exterior protecting the insulation.
• This results in a wall between 14 and 21 inches thick. The
SIREwall process has a protocol that controls the soil
consistency, the method of mixing and curing to produce a
wall with predictable, cost-effective results.
45.
46. • Plastic loam has been used for thousands of
• years to fill gaps in log houses where the
• logs are laid horizontally, as well as in
palisades
47.
48.
49. Formwork with loam
• Lightweight loam walls can be constructed
• using any type of formwork, but since less
• impact is involved than with rammed earthwork,
• the shuttering boards can be thinner.
50. LOAM FILLED HOSES
• A new technique, developed by GERNOT
MINKE was used in 1992 for three residences
• in Kassel, Germany.
• With this technique,
• an elastic cotton hose is filled with a
lightweight
• mineral loam mixture. The hose can
• be filled either using a pump
51.
52. • When the required length is reached, the hose is cut and the
end is stretched and knotted.
• Owing to the reinforcement provided by the fabric, these
loam-filled hoses can then be easily handled.
• Before being laid onto a wall, they are smoothed with the
hands so that some loam oozes and forms a thin loam cover
on the fabric.
• When stacked, these loam coverings stick together Since
these hoses can be shaped easily without breaking, attractive
sculptural patterns can be created
53.
54. • hoses are 70 cm
• in length are laid between vertical posts of
• 4 x 4 cm turned at 45°, or triangular elements
• fixed to the main posts of the end
• of the wall,
59. When loam elements are joined to posts, beams,
windows or doorframes, the following considerations
have to be kept in mind:
• With the wet loam techniques a gap occurs at the joint
due to the shrinkage of the loam.
• Even when the loam is dry or when dry loam elements
are used, gaps may occur due to the contraction of the
timber during its drying, a process which might take up
to two years (till the timber achieves its equilibrium
moisture content).
• Timber structures continue to swell and shrink slightly
in use due to adsorption and desorption of humidity
63. • Composition of loam plaster
• In order to keep loam plaster free of shrinkage cracks, the following
points must be kept in mind:
• The loam should contain enough coarse sand.
• Animal or human hair, coconut or sisal fibres, cut straw or hay
should be added (however, too much of these additives reduce the
ability of the plaster to adhere to the ground).
• For interior plastering, sawdust, cellulose fibres, chaff of cereal or
similar particles can also be used as additives.
• In order to develop enough binding force, the adhesive forces of the
clay minerals should be sufficiently activated by an adequate
amount of water and by movement.
• When the plaster sticks to a sliding metal trowel held vertically, yet
is easily flicked away, the correct consistency has been achieved.
64. • Interior loam plasters
• Interior plasters are less problematic. As a
• rule, fine shrinkage cracks cause no problems
• because they can be covered with
• coats of paint. Dry loam plaster surfaces can
• be easily smoothed by wetting and worked
• with a brush or felt trowel.
65. • If the surface of the walls demands a plaster
thicker than 15 mm, this should be applied in
two layers, with the ground layer containing
more clay and coarse aggregates than
the second one.
• If the ground layer acquires shrinkage cracks,
this is not problematic, and it might even be
beneficial by providing a better bond to the
final layer of plaster.
67. • a spray able lightweight
loam plaster with high
thermal insulation,
containing
shredded newspaper.
This plaster can
be applied even in a single
layer up to 30 mm thick using an
ordinary mortar pump
70. • Illustration 11.6 shows the surface of an
• 8-mm-thick loam plaster with expanded
• clay aggregates 1 to 4 mm in diameter. To
• reduce curing time and increase vapour diffusion
• resistance, the plaster was stabilised
• with 5% high-hydraulic lime. It is not easy
• to smooth the surface with a trowel, since
• the aggregate tends to come out during
• the process. To avoid this, shredded paper,
• cellulose fibres or casein-glue can be added
• into the mix.
73. • a traditional African technique, consisting of
throwing loam balls onto a wall, has been
adapted.
• Here, this technique is used on a wood-wool
board for the wall of a winter garden
• In order to increase adhesion, bamboo dowels
were hammered halfway into the board.
76. • As loam plaster retains
its plastic state for a
long time and is not
corrosive to the hands
like lime or cement
plasters, it is an ideal
material for moulding
with the hands.
an example of an
exterior loam wall
stabilised by a
limecasein
finish.
79. Protection of corners
• As loam plaster is
susceptible to
mechanical impact,
corners should
preferably be
covered by wooden
profiles, baked
bricks or similar
lippings