1. Armenian Signatures
in Watchland
44
New AJA President
New Ambitious Plans
13
BASELWORLD 11
24
5000-Year-Old
Heritage
36
INTERNATIONAL MAGAZINEMay 2011 | №1

2. 2 AJA 05'11 05'11 AJA 3
MessagesMessages
The Armenians have created a very rich history in
the art of jewellery, the best traditions of which continue
to this day. Masterpieces created by gifted and fine Arme-
nian craftsmen have always been of great demand all over
the world.
Very often it has been with the help of talented
men of art that the Armenian nation has been able to
establish firm grounds and respect in many cultural
centers all over the world. The art of Jewellery is one
of the widely spread professions having a traditional
history that has accompanied us throughout centuries
and is an indispensable part of the Armenian culture.
It is with victorious expectations that I would like
to congratulate all board members of the Armenian Jew-
eller’s Association and its President Mister Gagik Gevor-
gian, wishing countless new achievements in this com-
plex and honorable field.
President of the Republic of Armenia
Հայ ոսկերչական արվեստը հարուստ
պատմություն ունի և այսօր էլ շարունակվում են այդ
արվեստի լավագույն ավանդույթները: Հայազգի
տաղանդավոր և բարձրաճաշակ վարպետների
ստեղծած ոսկերչական գլուխգործոցները միշտ էլ
մեծ ճանաչում են ստացել ամենուրեք:
Շատ հաճախ հայ հանրաճանաչ
արվեստագետների շնորհիվ է, որ մեր ժողովուրդը
ամրախնդում է իր բարի, հարգանք և համակրանք
վայելում աշխարհի ամենատարբեր մշակութային
կենտրոններում: Իսկ ոսկերչական արվեստը
մեր ժողովրդի առաջատար ու, ինչու չէ, ամենա
տարածված ու ավանդույթներ ունեցող
մասնագիտություններից է, որ դարեր ի վեր մեր
մշակույթի անբաժան մաս է եղել:
Հաղթարշավի ակնկալիքով ողջունում եմ
Հայ ոսկերիչների համաշխարհային միության
խորհրդի անդամներին` նորընտիր նախագահի
Գագիկ Գևորգյանի գլխավորությամբ և մաղթում
նորանոր նվաճումներ այդ դժվարին ու պատվաբեր
բնագավառում:
ՀՀ նախագահ `Սերժ Սարգսյան
The Adress of
the President of
the Republic of
Armenia Mr. Serzh
Sargsyan to the
Armenian Jewellers'
Association
ՀՀ Նախագահ
Սերժ Սարգսյանի
ուղերձը Հայ
ոսկերիչների
համաշխարհային
միությանը
Patriarchal Blessing
From the Holy See of Saint Echmiadzin we send
warm greetings and Patriarchal blessings to the new-
ly-elected president and all the members of the Arme-
nian Jewellers’ Association.
Գիր Օրհնութեան
Մայր Աթոռ Սուրբ Էջմիածնից ողջունում և
Հայրապետական Մեր օրհնութիւնն ենք բերում
Հայ ոսկերիչների համաշխարհային միութեան
նորընտիր նախագահին և անդամներին:
Մեր մշակութային հարուստ ժառանգութեանը
ուրոյնփայլենհաղորդումհայկականոսկերչութեան
ձեռքբերումները: Վաղնջական ժամանակներից
մեր շնորհալի վարպետներն իրենց տաղանդով ու
ստեղծագործ հոգու կնիքով ոսկեայ զարդերն ու
քանդակները վերածել են արուեստի անկրկնելի
գործերի: Շարունակելով դարաւոր ավանդները`
հայ ոսկերիչնեչը այսօր էլ հիացնում են իրենց ոսկէ
ձեռքերի բազմահմուտ արգասիքներով, որոնք
ճանաչում են գտնում ողջ աշխարհում:
Մեզ համար ուրախութիւն է, որ շուրջ մէկ ու կէս
տասնամեակ Հայ ոսկերիչների համաշխարհային
միութիւնը համախմբում է մեր ժողովրդի
Message of His Holiness the Catholicos of
all Armenians Garegin II to the Armenian
Jewellers’ Association
Ն. Ս. Օ. Տ. Տ. Գարեգին Բ Ամենայն Հայոց
Կաթողիկոսի ուղեևձը Հայ Ոսկերիչների
Համաշխարհային Միությանը
The achievements of Armenian Jewellery confer
a special radiance on our rich cultural heritage. From
ancient times our craftsmen, with their talent and cre-
ativity, have turned goldsmith jewellery and statues into
exclusive pieces of art. Today, while continuing their
centuries-long traditions, Armenian goldsmiths still as-
tound us with the artfully-made products of their ‘gold-
en hands’ receiving recognition all over the world.
We are extremely delighted and happy that the AJA
has united the talented children of the Armenian nation for
around a decade and a half, and, with its effective and ef-
ficient activities, has served the development of this beauti-
ful branch of art. Truly gratified, we wish success and new
achievements to the Armenian Jewellers’ Association.
From the depths of our hearts we pray to our Lord to
confer His blessings and protection on the newly-elect-
ed president of the Armenian Jewellers’ Association, the
faithful follower of our Holy Church and philanthropist
of the Holy See of Saint Echmiatsin Mr. Gagik Gevorki-
an and the respected members of the Association, and
keep their path unimpeded to head for better accom-
plishments and initiatives.
May the graces of our Lord Jesus Christ be with you
all. Amen.
His Holiness the Catholicos of all Armenians Garegin II
տաղանդաւոր զաւակներին և արդիւնաւոր
գործունէութեամբ ծառայում արուեստի այս
գեղեցիկ ճիւղի զարգացմանը: Գոհունակ սրտով
Միութեան գործունէութեանը մաղթում ենք նոր
յաջողութիիւններ ու ձեռքբերումներ:
Ի խորոց սրտի աղօթքով հայցում ենք, որ
Երկրաւոր Տէրը Իր Սուրբ Աջի օրհնութեան ներքո
պահպանի Հայ ոսկերիչների համաշխարհային
Միիութեան նորընտիր նախագահ, Առաքելական
մեր Սուրբ Եկեղեցու հաւատաւոր զավակ և Մայր
Աթոռ Սուրբ Էջմիածնի բարերար Տիար Գագիկ
Գևորգեանին և Միութեան սիրելի անդամներիդ և
հաստատուն պահի ձեր ընթացքը բարի գործերի և
ձեռնարկումների իրականացման ճանապարհին:
Շնորհք Տեառն մերոյ Յիսուսի Քրիստոսի ընդ
ձեզ ամենեսեան ամէն:
Օրհնությեամբ
Գարեգին Բ
ԿԱԹՈՂԻԿՈՍ ԱՄԵՆԱՅՆ ՀԱՅՈՑ

3. 4 AJA 05'11 05'11 AJA 5
MessagesMessages
Dear friends!
Firstly let me thank you all for your trust.
I have been an AJA member for six years already,
but I know what hopes it has been cherishing for 15
years. In 1997, following a gathering of Armenian jew-
ellers from all over the world, the Armenian Jewellers’
Association (AJA) was founded by patriotic Armenian
jewellers. The idea of establishing a world jewellery as-
sociation was born on an airplane flight. This is very
symbolic, since it happened so close to God.
I strongly believe that under my leadership we will
be able to have great achievements. I believe that the
new board will be able to unite around great objectives.
We have been striving to implement big projects for 15
years already. There are great projects and hopes for the
forthcoming two years of my leadership.
I would like to thank the previous leadership – Mr.
Pierre and Mr. Vartkess - who not only supervised the
AJA over the last two years, but were also the parents
of the AJA. I am thankful that they established this in-
stitution, which is very close to me. We have spoken
much about AJA’s advantages, and now we are showing
the meaning of those advantages through our life and
work. Throughout these years a warm and cooperative
Message of Mr. Gagik Gevorkian
atmosphere and trustworthy business links have been
established, our children have got acquainted with each
other, etc., and with all that we are getting even more
powerful.
Of course, during these 10 years there have been
hardships that were due not to any human factor, but
rather purely economic reasons. Unfortunately, the eco-
nomic crisis of the last two years has weakened many.
Notwithstanding this fact, we, especially because
we are Armenians, have overcome all the obstacles.
Jewellery is one of the common professions among
us Armenians. From this day on I would like us to put our
art on a higher level, to make it so that our jewellers are
not only renowned for being good craftsmen, but also be-
come world-famous designers. In this regard I would like
to present you with the projects I have envisioned.
We all have different approaches to our businesses.
The mentality and traditions of each country shape dif-
ferent business styles, we are often not ready for com-
promises, and it is often difficult to unite around one
single idea. Let me try to unite you all around my ideas.
This is an issue that I consider to be of great importance
– we need to be united.
Thank you!

4. 6 AJA 05'11 05'11 AJA 7
Messages editorial
Dear Readers,
On behalf of the editorial team I would like to con-
gratulate you on the occasion of holding the new, revived
magazine of the Armenian Jewellers’ Association.
Spring has knocked on the doors of our lives with a
typical sense of love and renaissance. And, inspired by this
feeling, we have decided to generate a new type of AJA
magazine designed not only for AJA members, but also for
those who are interested in the Armenian and world jewel-
lery industry, as well as for those who, with their lifestyle,
personify the eminence of beauty and admiration of art.
The business of jewellery is more an art form than a
manufacturing industry, and, I would say, it is one of the
most complex and finest forms of art, as it is directly linked
to the masterful creation of beauty, and it is indisputably a
very profitable business. That is why we are going to cover
all aspects of this field of interest for you in this magazine.
The roots of the Armenian jewellery art lie deep in the
past. As early as millennia ago our craftsmen were produc-
ing, designing and creating exclusively beautiful ornaments.
Armenia was one of the main centers of the craft and had a
large number of goldsmiths’ workshops: the art of jewellery
was so highly developed there that goldsmiths in different
cities even specialized in particular branches. And from the
depths of history until today the Armenian jeweller’s art
has many things in common with that of the neighboring
peoples, yet is original and quite independent in its style
and the technique used to make it. Due to various histori-
cal conditions Armenian goldsmiths had to work in many
foreign countries, such as cities in the Caucasus, Greece, etc.
Here they continued and developed their beautiful art, thus
supporting the development of goldsmithery in these areas.
Today this beautiful craft of antiquity is not only accepted
but is progressing anew, becoming more productive thanks to
the rapid technical progress. The traditions passed on by our
ancestors to our craftsmen are still the basis for the unique
pattern of the Armenian jeweller. Nowadays a large number
of gold and silver ornamentations are produced for wide use,
mainly based on the old traditions of the great art of the Ar-
menian goldsmith of ancient times. We very much hope that
you will learn about this much more through our magazine.
Wishing you pleasant reading!
Gayane Manukyan.
Editor-in-chief:
Gayane Manukyan
Features editor:
Igor Gaiter
Editor:
Mariam Chakhoyan
Art & graphic design:
Oleg Ivliev
Contributors:
Pierre Akkelian
Sofia Martynkevich
Douglas Gollan
Ola Iablonska
on the cover
Catholicos’s crozier
ABOUT AJA:
A 15-Year History. 8
NEWS:
Newly-Elected President and New
and Ambitious Plans. 13
AJA creates a Trust Fund. 16
A Message from AJA France. 20
Russia Elected a New Board of Members. 21
EVENT:
Baselworld 2011. 24
15th Annual Dinner in Basel. 30
JEWEL OF THE SPRING:
Vaagn Mkrtchian.
Author of the Catholicos’s crozier. 32
GOLDEN ROOTS:
A 5000-year heritage. 36
ARMENIAN SIGNATURES:
Armenian Signatures in Watchland. 44
The Father of «Tick-tacks». 45
FACES AND FIGURES:
Vartkess Knadjian. 50
BUSINESS:
The Armenian Goldsmith Industry. 56
Inside this issueEditorial
13
44
24
40
May 2011 | №1
INTERNATIONAL
MAGAZINE

5. 8 AJA 05'11 05'11 AJA 9
About AJAAbout AJA
O
ne of the founders of the AJA, Mr. Pierre
Akkelian, kindly shared his memories
with us and told an inspiring story about
the formation of the AJA, its first steps and
further growth.
“When two Armenians meet anywhere in the
world, see if they will not create a New Armenia,” wrote
William Saroyan. How aptly these words describe the
creation of the Armenian Jewellers’ Association.
Back in 1991, at the onset of the first Gulf War,
three Armenian businessmen found themselves thrown
together by fate, passengers in the first-class cabin of a
Tokyo-bound Canadian Airlines flight. Vartkess Knad-
jian, president of the oldest diamond company in Bel-
gium, his brother Adom and I spent the duration of the
15-hour flight discussing business and other common
interests.
On arrival, Vartkess kindly introduced me to his
Japanese contacts, through which my company Canadi-
an Gem would sell approximately 15,000 wedding bands
annually. One in a hundred Japanese newlyweds in those
days would get married with exclusive Tresoro wedding
bands handmade by Armenian jewellers in Montreal.
Vartkess and I would meet again in Tokyo in 1997.
This time we were invited to attend the wedding of the
daughter of Hedetaka Kato the illustrious founder and
chairman of Kashikey, the largest and best-known fam-
ily-owned diamond and jewellery distribution company
in Japan, also the exclusive distributors of our Tresoro
wedding bands. Vartkess had just arrived from Armenia
with exciting news and stories of unique opportunities
for the jewellery business in Armenia.
Unbeknownst to most of us in the West, Commu-
nist Armenia was a major Soviet diamond-cutting and
polishing center, employing over 3,000 workers and pro-
ducing the highest-quality diamonds in the world. The
state-run jewellery manufacturing company employed
over 5,000 workers. Recently independent, gripped by
war with Azerbaijan and still recovering from the dev-
astating earthquake in 1988, Armenia hardly presented
ideal conditions for foreign investors. But by bringing in
rough diamonds from Antwerp, trail-blazing, patriotic
Armenian businessmen, led by the Knadjians and the
Arslanians, who were among the world’s most promi-
nent diamond dealers, proved instrumental in keeping
the diamond industry alive in Armenia.
Throughout the evening, Vartkess repeated his
invitation for me to visit Armenia with promises of in-
troductions to key industry and government officials in
Yerevan. The pilgrimage to Armenia, to see Ararat with
my own eyes, meeting my aunt and cousins and assist-
ing our compatriots in the sacred task of rebuilding our
nation, were appealing incentives. But around this time
I had just been elected president of the Canadian Jewel-
lers’ Association, and with all my personal, business and
travel commitments, a visit to Armenia in the near fu-
ture didn’t seem likely.
The following morning over breakfast in the far-
away land of the setting sun, I shared my thoughts with
my best friend: could we not contribute toward building
a new and better Armenia by launching an Armenian
Jewellers’ Association?
The rest is history.
The very first recruited member of the AJA was
Pierre Hajjar, who figured among the world’s major
pearl distributors from Japan. My brother and I had been
regular visitors to the pearl capital of the world – Kobe,
Japan – since 1979. Pierre and his uncle Rimon were
instrumental in our foray into the pearl business. Their
combined shipments constituted over 50 percent of all
“Biwa” freshwater pearl exports from Japan. Pearl-hunt-
ing expeditions to Kobe were always exciting, and I very
much enjoyed my cousin Pierre and his wife’s hospital-
ity when staying over and sharing family and business
discussions at their spacious Kobe apartment. Pierre en-
thusiastically endorsed the AJA concept, which gave me
much hope. He promised to be in Yerevan if and when
we launched the AJA.
The role of Armenia’s ambassador to Canada Garnik
Nanagoulian can neither be underestimated nor under-
The AJA — 15 Years of History
AJA board members and the former president
of republic of Armenia Mr. Robert Kocharyan
Sarkis Kitsinian
Second AJA president
Ara Barmakian
Third AJA president
Gagik Abrahamyan
Fourth AJA president
Vartkess Knadjian
Fifth AJA president
Gagik Gevorkian
Sixth AJA president
Hayg Arslanyan
First AJA president
The opening ceremony of Mr. Arslanyan's factory

6. 10 AJA 05'11 05'11 AJA 11
About AJAAbout AJA
valued. As a member of Friends of the Embassy in Ot-
tawa, I was closely acquainted with the ambassador.
“Creating specialized business Diaspora and home-
land links is the most progressive idea ever,” he said.
Soon after, Nanagoulian was appointed minister of in-
dustry and commerce and he relentlessly worked to mo-
bilize the full support of the government of Armenia in
favor of making the AJA a reality. Nanagoulian assigned
a mutual friend and colleague, Hratch Kaspar, to the
task of helping us organize the first Armenian Jewellers’
Convention in Yerevan. A Montrealer educated in Italy,
Hratch worked at the Ottawa embassy and played a piv-
otal role in launching the AJA.
To give ourselves the necessary credibility, we
decided to forward invitations to the Yerevan conven-
tion from the Ottawa embassy. Vartkess also contacted
an internationally-renowned rough diamond dealer in
Antwerp, Haig Arslanian, to ask him to get involved
and take the lead. Haig initially refused, but a call from
the Embassy by Hratch with promises of lobbying sup-
port to his fledging factory in Armenia secured Haig’s
participation, hence the leading and recognizable name
was added beside ours on the invitation. There are an
estimated 5,000 Armenian-owned jewellery companies
in the world, but no data existed to invite the lead-
ing jewellers to our planned get-together in Yerevan.
Invitations were forwarded to a list composed of 50
haphazardly-gathered names from around the world.
We received 22 positive responses. As the date of the
convention drew nearer, more and more people backed
off from their commitments. I telephoned Minister
Nanagoulian and informed him that we were consid-
ering canceling the convention due to lack of support
and participation. “Even if only a handful of jewellers
come, no matter how limited and timid, you must take
the first steps,” he told us. Indeed, 11 jewellers from
the Diaspora showed up in Yerevan, joined by two who
just happened to be in Armenia at the time.
To our surprise, we were overwhelmed by the inter-
est shown by Yerevan-based jewellery industry leaders.
More than two dozen participants joined us, most no-
tably Gagik Abrahamian, the manager of Armenia’s re-
cently-privatized diamond factory, and Emile Grigorian,
the manager of Armenia’s recently-privatized jewellery-
manufacturing company, who were generous hosts and
have since become our eternal colleagues and friends.
Gagik Yeghiazarian, director of the Armenian Develop-
ment Agency, was our local liaison and organizer. Gagik
was and to this day is an enthusiastic AJA supporter. He
did a formidable job of organizing the convention, our
meetings with then Prime Minister Robert Kocharian,
and a dinner reception. We met Catholicos Karekin
I and attended mass at Echmiadzin the next day. We
were even invited to the independence celebration VIP
party hosted by President Levon Ter-Petrosian. Gagik
also rallied the media to promote our cause, as a re-
sult of which we were featured daily in the country’s
newspapers and TV reports. The AJA is a success story.
Over a billion dollars of estimated trade has taken place
between countless contacts and friendships that were
forged thanks to the AJA. In 2012 we will be celebrat-
ing our 15th anniversary and I have never felt better
knowing the organization is led by dedicated board
members and headed by our energetic president, Gagik
Gevorkian. I would like to take this opportunity to
congratulate the newly-elected board members and our
new president. I have no doubt Gagik’s dedication to
the cause, consummate drive and proven business acu-
men will transform the AJA into a truly global brand
and networking powerhouse. The city of lights, Soviet
Yerevan, was pitch-dark when I first arrived. At the
crack of dawn, no words can describe my sentiments
as I beheld Ararat from my hotel window for the first
time, so close I could almost touch it. When we next
meet in Yerevan in September 2011 the city will once
more be flooded with lights, but nothing will surpass
the glitter of the jewellery displayed by Armenian jew-
ellers at the first International Yerevan Jewellery show.
Come and touch Ararat and share our excitement cel-
ebrating a beautiful experience called Armenia!
Special guests and the AJA leadership with the Presisent
of Republic of Armenia Mr. Serzh Sargsyan, 2009
Mr. Gagik Gevorkian and Mr. Pierre Akkelian on the meeting with the former
Minister of Foreign Affairs of the Republic of Armenia Mr. Vartan Oskanyan

7. 12 AJA 05'11 05'11 AJA 13
News News
New AJA President
New Ambitious Plans
Gagik
Gevorkyan
(Russia)
Arto
Artinian
(Thailand)
Krikor
Yessayan
(Lebanon)
Zohrab
Keverian
(Australia)
Hagob
Bagdadlyan
(USA, East Coast)
Shant-Levon
Haytaian
(USA, West Coast)
Varoujan
Atamian
(Belgium)
Shant-Levon
Haytaian
(USA, West Coast)
Habib
Malo (Canada)
Pierre
Sarkis Hajjar
(Japan)
Nareg
Arslanyan
(Hong Kong)
Harry
Kazanjian
(Egypt)
Hakob
Darbinyan
(Armenia)
Berge
Abajian
(USA, East Coast)
Simon
Ghanimian
(USA, West Coast)
Hovel
Chenhororkian
(France)
Emil
Grigoryan
(Armenia)
All the board members had been earlier informed about
the working process of the session. There were 18 can-
didates, some of whom were new members, and there
was one vacant chair. As a result, the following candi-
dacies were nominated:
The AJA board meeting held in Basel on March
26 had the main aim of electing a new board and
board chairman.
Vartkess Knadjian, who led the AJA for the past two
years with honor, commenced his opening speech by
raising a number of financial issues in relation to the AJA
projects of the past year. Mr. Knadjian remarked that he
had made a donation by investing 10,000 USD and had no
expectations of getting the sum refunded. He explained
this step in the following way: “The investment was vali-
dated four years ago and I am donating it to the AJA to
enable it commence the year without debts.”
Then the chairman of the board, Mr. Knadjian,
passed on to the main subject on the agenda – the elec-
Elections to the Board of Directors
tion of the new board of directors, following which he
was going to pass on his position to the newly-elected
chairman of the board.
As the number of candidates corresponded to the
number of members of the board as adopted by the char-
ter of the organization, there was no need to hold an
election, and thus all the nominated candidates were
elected. Usually, as the rules of procedure provide, elec-
tions to the board are held when the number of candi-
dates exceed the number of chairs.
Emil Grigoryan from Armenia nominated the sec-
ond candidacy from Armenia – Hakob Darbinyan — as
two membership candidacies from Armenia are accept-
able according to the rules of procedure.
The new president of the AJA Mr. Gagik Gevorkian
and the vice-president of AJA Mr. Berge Abajian

8. 05'11 AJA 1514 AJA 05'11
The board accepted Mr. Hakob Darbinyan’s candi-
dacy. And as continuous participation is a key condition
for board membership Emil Grigoryan took a pledge
that Hakob Darbinyan will always be able to take part
in board meetings. Pierre Akkelian from Canada nomi-
nated Habib Malo’s candidacy. Mr. Malo is an Armenian
by origin who is from Turkey. He is the owner of the
best wedding ring manufacturer in Canada with more
than 100 employees. He is also vice chair of the Quebec
Ring Association.
Vardkess Knajdian nominated Varoujan Atamian
from Belgium as a candidate for the board.
Mr. Atamian is a native French Armenian. His
family has resided in Belgium for three generations. He
speaks Armenian and French. He works for Thomas Far-
ber. Ten years ago he actively took part in the process of
establishing the AJA in France.
Thus, Mr. Knadjian closed his speech by declar-
ing his resignation and passing on his authorities to
the newly-elected president, and declared himself a
former president. He thanked all the members of the
board for their close cooperation and concluded by
saying: «These two years have been hard, clouded
by the crisis and other problems. Hopefully we are
heading forward towards a better future. I am sure
the AJA has great ambitions and I wish all the best to
everybody. I wish AJA to be able to fulfill its projects.
In particular, I would like to thank Pierre for serv-
ing as the AJA vice-chairman. He has not only been
the vice-chairman, but he has been with the AJA ever
since the very first days of its establishment. Let me
express my gratitude on behalf of all of us.»
Pierre Akkelian, already as the vice-chairman of
the board, referred to the board members with words
of appreciation: “Thank you for believing in the success
of the AJA - a dream for all of us. I hope that with the
new leadership the future of the AJA is much better and
richer. I hope that we will have a chance to see the ful-
fillment of our dream. I am extremely happy that Mr.
Gagik Gevorkian from Russia has joined us. He asked
me to nominate his candidacy as president of the board,
which I do with great pleasure. I would be very happy
if Mr. Gevorkian took on the supervision of the AJA’s
activities, which is not only in the interests of Armenian
jewellery, but also in the national interest. From this
moment on we consider ourselves members of the board
and transfer the chairmanship to the next chairman.”
Shant Haytayan, as one of the authoritative board
members, accepted the candidacy of Gagik Gevorkian
and recommended that the board members elect Mr.
Gevorkian as the chairman who would later choose a
vice-chairman. His viewpoint was unanimously sup-
ported and followed by congratulations to the newly-
elected chairman of the board.
The newly-elected president shared his new ambi-
tious plans for the forthcoming year with the AJA mem-
bers present at the meeting.
Firstly he mentioned that the AJA website would be
completely changed, becoming more interactive, func-
tional and interesting for all, and also targeting the most
important event to which all AJA members are looking
forward — the AJA exhibition in Armenia, which is al-
ready arranged to be held on September 21 during the
festivities dedicated to the 20th anniversary of the inde-
pendence of the Armenian Republic. At the same time,
another exhibition is going to be held in Hong Kong.
However, Mr. Gevorkian hopes that the board members
pay special attention to the exhibition in Armenia.
The exhibition is going to be opened by the presi-
dent of Armenia, Serzh Sargsyan. His Holiness Catholi-
cos of All Armenians Garegin II will also bring his pa-
triarchal blessings. The event is likely to be of national
significance. The site of the exhibition will be finalized
in May. At present there are two suggestions. One is the
Hotel Marriott and the other the Philharmonic Hall.
The next remarkable project proposed by the new
president was to establish a Trust Fund, run by Pierre
Future Plans of the New President
Akkelian. This fund would have two goals.
The first goal of the fund is to study the history of
Armenian jewellery, and its paths of heritage, which
could turn into an enormous academic research project.
“The craft of jewellery was not only an art in Armenia,
but also a means of survival for Armenians in the most
challenging historical periods. Yet it did not lose its val-
ue or image as a cultural factor. This is why we would
like to study the history of Armenian jewellery within
this fund,” Mr. Gevorkian said.
The second one is to fund an educational program.
The AJA envisages organizing trainings and other capac-
ity-building initiatives in order to improve the qualifica-
tions of talented young Armenian jewellers. The most
important precondition in jewellery is having a fine taste
for design, and with the help of the Trust Fund the AJA
plans to select five talented young designers from all
over the world and send them to designer classes. Each
of the local boards may present one talented young man.
In the very near future members will receive the con-
ditions of the competition. “Even if just a few of them
become world-famous designers, we may consider our
mission accomplished,” Mr. Gevorkian concluded.
News News
Left to right
Executive director of the AJA — Mr. Artak Udumyan
Chairman of AJA Armenia — Mr. Emil Grigoryan Left to right
Former vice-president of the AJA — Mr. Pierre Akkelian,
Newly-elected president of the AJA — Mr. Gagik Gevorkian
Former president of the AJA — Mr. Vartkess Knadjian

9. 16 AJA 05'11 05'11 AJA 17
NewsNews
The AJA Creates a Trust Fund
T
he AJA is entering into a very exciting period
of growth and development. At the board
meeting in Basel it was decided to create an
AJA foundation, a so-called Trust Fund – in
order to be able to promote the many AJA development
programs. The idea was developed and proposed by
PierreAkkelian.AJAMagazineeditorGayaneManukyan
interviewed the co-founder of the AJA. The following
are excerpts from the interview.
What is the objective of the AJA Foundation?
As jewellery enthusiasts, our goal for the Foundation
is to conduct research regarding the astounding heritage of
jewellery-making and present it to members of the jew-
ellery industry and the general public around the world.
More specifically, we want to look at individual and group
contributions to the art of jewellery-making from an Ar-
menian perspective. The Foundation was also established
to pass on age-old knowledge and help create the next gen-
eration of world-renowned Armenian jewellers!
The heritage of jewellery-making of Armenians
probably goes back to Noah or Haig — as far back as we
can go. How far back in history does one have to go to
find Armenian jewellers?
To the cradle of civilization!
Contrary to the popular belief that civilization
began in ancient Egypt or Greece, the people who
lived between the two rivers of Mesopotamia such
as the Armenians, Assyrians, Sumerians and Baby-
lonians, are known for being the first to settle and
cultivate the land year round, invent the wheel and
invent script writing to register bartered trade. As for
facts pertaining to our industry, the first known mines
were found in Armenia!
For close to 10,000 years the people of Mount Ara-
rat have mined copper, and as a result the agricultural
revolution, irrigation and urbanization were born, fol-
lowed by metallurgical and smelting advances that pro-
duced armaments and jewellery.
The Foundation will finance research to uncov-
er this rich history that has not yet been fully docu-
mented. We will explore the extraordinary Armenian
jewellery heritage throughout the ages to highlight
landmark achievements and Armenia’s contribution
to the history of the global jewellery trade from the
Bronze Age to the present.
Where did the idea for the Armenian Jewellers’ Founda-
tion come from?
In my 14 years of active involvement since the
AJA was launched, information about Armenian jewel-
lery in global history seemed to be a recurring subject. I
would often meet people who would tell me interesting
facts that placed Armenian jewellers at the forefront of
the industry throughout the ages. For example, Arme-
nians were the first to introduce diamonds to the Euro-
peans. The most luxurious European throne imbedded
with precious jewels and metals belonged to the tsar
of Russia, compliments of New-Julfa (Iran) Armenians
who had exclusive trading privileges with the empire.
The great majority of jewels Ottoman Sultans present-
ed to European and other royalty, diplomats and men
of influence were made by Armenian artisans! More
recently, the invention of the invisible setting of gem-
stones is attributed to a French Armenian working for
one of the luxury brands.
Exploring and scientifically documenting the aston-
ishing legacy of Armenian jewellers will undoubtedly
unveil an interesting history and create national pride
in our heritage. Most of the world knows little about
Armenians and even less about our contribution to the
advancement of the arts and culture of the world. The
story has to be told for posterity, so launching the Foun-
dation was an easy conclusion.
How will the project be financed?
With the support and investment of patrons who
believe in the cause.
The Foundation’s first fundraising effort has
been made possible thanks to the generous support
of Mr. Vartan Sirmakes, the CEO of world-renowned
Diamond trone
The shape of the so-called ‘diamond
armchair’ of Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich, the
most elaborate of the royal thrones in the
Armory collection, is reminiscent of the
throne of Tsar Mikhail, his father. The throne
was made by Persian craftsmen in 1659 and
gifted to the tsar by merchants Ichto Modov-
letov and Zakharia Saradarov from the Arme-
nian Trading Company in 1660. The throne is
made of sandalwood faced with gold and
silver plates with foliate ornamentation. Its
underside is decorated with a bold carved
pattern depicting a procession of elephants
and drivers on their backs. The back of the
throne is covered with black velvet and em-
broidered images of two genies supporting
a crown over an inscription glorifying the
tsar and his power.

10. 18 AJA 05'11 05'11 AJA 19
RubrikatorNews
Franck Muller Watches. Sirmakes, working with Kn-
adjian, offered to manufacture special limited-edition
watches celebrating the 38 letters of the Armenian
alphabet. These watches will be given as a memento
to the Foundation’s patrons, whose contributions will
provide start-up funds for the project. Other fundrais-
ing projects will follow suit and we encourage anyone
with good ideas to contact us.
How will the Foundation be managed?
Even though we are an integral part of the AJA, for
legal, financial and transparency reasons the Foundation
will have a separate charter and board of trustees. I am
the interim chair of the Foundation and co-founder Vart-
kess Knadjian is the vice-chair. We have solicited and
have the support of esteemed individuals from around
the globe, and together we will form a board of trustees
and set guidelines to oversee the management and the
team of scholars and researchers who will explore and
document our rich history.
What lies in store for the future?
There is no future without a past, and there is no
guarantee for a prosperous future unless we invest in our
youth today! Parallel to our research into the past we
are looking into ways to facilitate the next generation of
internationally-renowned Armenian jewellery design-
ers, gemologists and jewellery crafters.
I encourage you to visit the AJA Foundation www.
AJAfoundation.org or www.AJAinternational.com web-
sites for more information on available scholarships to
world-renowned European design schools made possible
thanks to a generous donation by the AJA president and
his wife Gagik and Madine Gevorkian.
To find out more about this exciting project, we urge
everyone to visit our website, and, more importantly, we
urge you to make a difference by getting involved and
making the AJA Foundation your foundation!
- Mr. Akkelian, we wish you good luck in your en-
deavors.
- Thank you.
A once in a lifetime opportunity for you to
acquire this limited edition collectible Franck
Muller watch!
To become the proud owner of one of
these unique watches celebrating the Arme-
nian Alphabet., please contact us by visiting
www.ajafoundation.org

11. 20 AJA 05'11 05'11 AJA 21
NewsNews
A Message from AJA France
P
rintOr is the major watch and jewellery show
in France. For the last 19 years, with 600 brands
and 12,000 m2 of exhibition space, PrintOr
has brought together a unique exhibition of
jewellery and watches. This year PrintOr once again
proved to be the undisputed leader in the industry.
During the show PrintOr announces awards for watches
and jewellery, chosen by a jury of professionals and well-
known personalities. As prerequisites, the product had to
meet the three criteria outlined by PrintOr.
It is interesting to note that the two awards went to:
-The best jewellery award to Eric Jaghaspanian from
Herzo,
-The best watch award to Mr. Hovel Chenorhokian
from Moog.
Moog was among other nominees including Stark
and Seiko. The jury overwhelmingly chose Moog’s ‘Time
To Change’ interchangeable straps watch concept as the
winner of the award.
AJA Russia Elects New Chairman
Being very familiar with Kotanchyan, the Rus-
sian wing of AJA was quite comfortable with his can-
didacy and unanimously elected him as chairman of
the board of AJA Russia.
A highly motivated and energetic person, Ruben
Kotanchyan was born in the ancient Armenian city
of Gandzak in 1949. An electrical engineer by educa-
tion, he accidentally fell in love with jewellery during
his first visit to the Yerevan Jewellery Factory in the
late 1980s as a member of an expert Public Inspec-
tion of Quality of Export Goods team conducting an
audit. From that moment on he pursued a career in
the jewellery industry. In 1991 he became the head of
the State Inspection and Control Office of Armenia.
From 1995 to 2006 he worked in Moscow as branch
manager of the State Central Control and Supervision
Inspectorate of Moscow. In 2007 he created his own
brand — BRIZOL.
Mr. Ruben Kotanchyan
Award Trophy, designed by jeweller Lyon Philippe Tournaire
Mr. Hovel Chenorhokian
O
n April 22 the board of AJA Russia
elected a new president. As the former
president of the Russian board and
as the newly-elected president of the
AJA Gagik Gevorkian put forward the candidacy
of Ruben Kotanchyan for the presidency of AJA
Russia. It was a warm and long-awaited meeting
and AJA Russia members and guests enjoyed the
get-together discussing the elections and sharing
ideas and information over refreshments.
The meeting was opened by Gagik Gevorkian,
who familiarized the participants with all the details
of the international board meeting which took place
on March 26 in the Swiss town of Basel, and presented
the new plans and projects that AJA is going to imple-
ment over the next two years.
Following some introductory words, Mr. Gev-
orkian nominated Ruben Kotanchyan as a candidate
for the chairmanship of AJA Russia, basing his choice
on Mr. Kotanchyan’s excellent leadership and busi-
ness qualities.
“When the question arose of whom we should
nominate for the presidency of the Russian regional
board of the AJA, I organized lots of consultations,
above all with the members of the Russian board of
the AJA, and came to the conclusion that it must be
a person who is not only very knowledgeable about
the local jewellery market, but also familiar with rep-
resentatives of the Armenian jewellery industry in
Russia, and closely communicates with them. Ruben
has worked in the jewellery industry in Russia for
more than 10 years and knows all the Armenians in
the industry. And, of course, as a person he is a very
modest, charming and very intelligent man. Based on
these merchants, I have decided to offer his candida-
ture, and I hope and believe he will justify the hopes
of AJA Russia and AJA International as well.”

12. 22 AJA 05'11
Rubrikator
05'11 AJA 23
Rubrikator
HEAD OFFICE:
750,boul.Curé-Labelle,#200,Chomedey,Laval (QC) H7V 2T9,Canada
CRÉATIONS

13. 24 AJA 05'11 05'11 AJA 25
Event
This year’s BASELWORLD, the World
Watch and Jewellery Show held in
Basel, a beautiful Swiss town close
to the borders with France and
Germany, went down in history
as a spectacular highlight. The
outstanding event, celebrating
luxury and elegance, closed its doors
after eight highly successful days.
The exhibitors were particularly
satisfied, with 103,200 visitors
(+2.5% / 2010) and excellent sales. The
innovations and trends presented
underlined BASELWORLD’s key
global position as the leading show
for the watch and jewellery industry.
At the 39th BASELWORLD Watch
and Jewellery Show, a total of 1,892
watch and jewellery producers
and representatives of the supplier
industry, from no fewer than 45
nations, showcased their exclusive
world innovations and sophisticated
collections in Basel for eight days.
It was particularly delightful and a
great honor for AJA to have some
brands of its members or brands of
other native Armenians decorate
the elegant halls of the Baselworld
show. Among the Armenian
expositions were such well- known
brands of AJA members as Yessayan
(Lebanon), Waskol (Paris), Belpearl
(Japan), Tellus (Paris), Moog (Paris),
GS (Lebanon), etc. During the show
AJA Magazine had interviews with
AJAmembersCyrilWaskolandHovel
Chenhorokian from Paris, Kevork
Yessayan and George Sabounjian
from Lebanon, Pierre Hajar from
Japan, and others. They shared their
impressions and expectations from
the BASELWORLD show with us.
BASELWORLD
Event

14. 26 AJA 05'11 05'11 AJA 27
T
he sun shone down from a cloudless Basel sky for
the opening of the 39th BASELWORLD 2011.
Without doubt the AJA board members and the
exhibitors saw the wonderful spring weather as
a positive sign for a successful show, and of course, for the
elections of the AJA board of directors that took place in
the Hotel Europe (Basel) on March 26. Together with the
AJA’s exhibitors we spent several beautiful working days
in Switzerland. More than 100,000 jewellery industry
professionals from all over the world arrived in Basel, as
every year, to show their innovations, astounding gems
and jewellery, and, of course, have them compared with
the products of other companies and designers. Leaving
figures and statistics aside, one should acknowledge
that the Swiss watch industry is in rude health. It was
the right place for a marketing strategy not only for
the AJA members, but for all the representatives of the
jewellery and watch industry.
About 3,000 journalists came to Switzerland from
March 24 to 31 to be the first to report about the latest
trends, new designs and revolutionary technological in-
novations.Accordingtoannouncementsfromkeywatch-
making brands, we should expect a lot of breakthroughs.
This year’s exhibiting companies, which presented the
newest innovations and trends in the watch, jewellery
and precious stone industries, are highly pleased with
the outstanding sales they achieved at Baselworld 2011.
After several years of recession caused by the global eco-
nomic crisis, watchmakers announced a significant re-
covery, presenting the very best we could expect from
the world’s top brands. A few breakthroughs marked this
year’s show in Basel, starting with Tag Heuer’s revolu-
tionary concept – the Mikrotimer Flying 1000 Chrono-
graph, the world’s first mechanical wrist chronograph,
which counts and shows 1/1,000th of a second.
It was particularly delightful and a great honor
for AJA to have some brands of its members or brands
of other native Armenians decorate the elegant halls
of the Baselworld show. Among the Armenian exposi-
tions were such well-known brands of AJA members
as Yessayan (Lebanon), Waskol (Paris), Belpearl (Ja-
pan), Tellus (Paris), Moog (Paris), GS (Lebanon), etc.
During the show AJA Magazine had interviews with
AJA members Cyril Waskol and Hovel Chenhorokian
from Paris, Kevork Yessayan and George Sabounjian
from Lebanon, Pierre Hajar from Japan, and others.
They shared their impressions and expectations from
the BASELWORLD show with us.
Event Event

15. 28 AJA 05'11 05'11 AJA 29
EventEvent
Waskol, Paris
“A Heart with Few Words, But a Lot of Love”, by
Cyril Waskol
It is already 20 years since Waskol was introduced
at the Baselworld show. Cyril Waskol, the president of
the company, is very proud to be Armenian and to rep-
resent the jewellery art as an Armenian jeweller here, at
the Baselworld show. They are third-generation jewel-
lers, and, as he says, they try to keep all the traditions
they inherited from their Armenian jewellery roots.
“When you keep the soil of Armenia or Kharabakh
in your hands, you can always find some artworks made
of stone. We do the same, we have just changed the kind
of stones, we work with diamonds, rubies and sapphires.
I believe that all Armenians have art in their blood, no
matter whether it is jewellery or sculpture, or anything
else. And that is why we have several Armenian booths
here, at one of the biggest jewellery shows in the world.
And we are proud of this fact. All Armenians from all
over the world - from Russia, France, the USA, Australia
and other parts of the planet - have the same character
- the character of the country they come from. The AJA
gives us the opportunity to be in touch with each other.
It gives the feeling that we all are together and from one
family.” Mr. Waskol showed us one of his favorite pieces
of jewellery, that he made himself. It is a heart full of
sapphires and with a poem written by him engraved on
the back. The poem is about love, and it says: “…a heart
with a few words, but a lot of love.”
Yessayan Jewellery, Lebanon
Fancy Yellow Marvel of the East, by Krikor Yes-
sayan
Among the millions of gems we found eastern and
really mysterious miracles at the booth of Yessayan Jew-
ellery. Yessayan is one of the famous Armenian jewel-
lery houses in Lebanon. We had a short interview with
the president of the company, Krikor Yessayan.
“We are a very old manufacturing company from
Lebanon. And we have lot of Armenians working in this
field in Lebanon. The market now is not very dynamic
because of the religious conflicts in our region, but was
all understand that true art must be far from politics and
religious conflicts. We try to stand strongly on our posi-
tion. We are mostly popular for our expensive and gor-
geous sets. We have jewels specially made for sheikhs and
their princesses. Here at the Basel show we are introduc-
ing some of them. We do everything to satisfy the needs
of the supplier. My favorite item is the ring with the big-
gest fancy yellow diamond I have ever worked with. The
lady who buys this will enjoy wearing it. And we, as the
creators of this marvel, will be sad to part with it.”
Moog and Tellus, France
French Elegance, by Hovel Chenorhokian
Hovel Chenorhokian has been in the watch in-
dustry since the 1930s. His father and grandfather
were in the watch industry, and now he is continu-
ing their mission.
“Before the 1970s watches were something just
for telling the time. After the 1970s, watches became a
fashionable part of our wardrobes. I create fashionable
watches, but I never check the time. Life is too short
to check the time. I have designed two watches. One
for a Swiss company – the Tellus collection with very
sophisticated technology. Tellus is a concept watch. An-
other watch is the French Moog. This year Moog won
the “Best Watch Design 2011” award at the Printor jew-
ellery show in France. I have the patent for both these
watches for their technical innovations and no one can
repeat them. Ideas for new designs visit me often and
I think it is because I am Armenian by origin and my
blood gives me new ideas. I think I was born to design.”
Belpearl, Japan
The Real Pearl of the Baselworld Show, by Pierre Hajjar
A real pearl of Baselworld for us was the booth of
Pierre Hajjar from Japan — Belpearl.
“The pearl market is currently experiencing not
the best times, but we remain faithful to the traditional
school of cultivating natural pearls, despite the fact that
many in this situation are looking for different ways to
circumvent the laws of nature. Nature can’t be deceived,
as it leads to destruction. We are happy to be part of the
big Armenian family of jewellers and to introduce here
at the show what we – Armenians — are made of and
what we can surprise the audience with.”
The AJA members presenting at the exposition
found this year’s event to be one of the best of all time.
They can look optimistically into the future, as they
represented Armenian jewellery at this year’s show at a
very high level. They promised to do their best to ensure
excellent representations at top-level events of this kind,
and especially during Baselworld, since this show will
remain the most important and prestigious one for the
international watch and jewellery industry.

16. 30 AJA 05'11 05'11 AJA 31
thoughts about the interesting facts he had learned
about Armenian jewellers.
Gaetano Cavalieri: “I know a lot about the Ar-
menian heritage not only in jewellery, but also about
many other things. The history of Armenia is very well
known to me. I have visited the Armenian church in
Jerusalem and was surprised to learn that the Arme-
nian church is one of the three Christian churches in
Jerusalem with jurisdictions over the holiest Christian
sites. I am very close to the Armenian people through
my Armenian friends from all over the world — from
Canada to Russia, from California to Israel. They all
are my good friends. With regard to Armenian jew-
ellers, I would say that Armenian jewellers are open
and genuine. They are able to adapt themselves to the
environment where they are. It doesn’t make any dif-
ference which latitude or longitude they are on, they
adapt themselves and they are capable of establishing
and doing business with a lot of people, even when
there are obstacles. This is very characteristic of the
majority of Armenian jewellers I know. I know they
are very capable of doing business and reaching key
positions in several fields. I also admire several traits
of the Armenian character.”
15th
annual dinner of AJA in Basel Shant Haytayan: «Today is one of those days when
dreams come true. I am very excited that the AJA has
achieved its goals so far. It’s been 15 years, and this
year we are celebrating our 15th anniversary for the
board of the AJA, and I am so happy and moved that
we have a new election. It went so smoothly and so
successfully. I am confident that the new board with
the leadership of Gagik Gevorkian is going to do its
best to bring pride and a great reputation to this or-
ganization, so that we can all benefit from the AJA’s
growing power and knowledge. I think the AJA’s duty
is to bolster the prosperity of Armenia, and bring bal-
ance into the jewellery industry in Armenia, as well
as the entire world. And I believe that this organiza-
tion is going to be very dynamic and fruitful to bring
nothing but joy and pride to the family of Armenian
jewellers. I also believe it will be more successful in-
ternationally. And finally, I firmly believe that it will
do a lot of good things for the people of Armenia, and
for the families of jewellers from all over the world. I
wish the AJA success and all the best.»
For former President Vartkess Knadjian who was
going to take up the leadership of the AJA was very im-
portant, so we very much wanted to hear his opinion.
Vartkess Knadjian: “I am absolutely delighted
and satisfied with the results of today’s elections. I
think that the AJA and all of us today have gained
by acquiring a new vigorous president, who came to
us only six years ago. However, he came to us full of
visions about the future of the AJA, visions on uniting
Armenian jewellers and working together to create an
association for the common benefit of all the mem-
bers. This is why I am truly happy for the AJA today.
I think that once the structure of the AJA is finalized
and a platform is created where all the members can
interact through the organization, the AJA will be-
come even stronger under the next leadership and
have a firm foundation to head for the future.”
At the annual meeting there were a lot of visitors
from all over the world. Among them was Gaetano
Cavalieri, the president of CIBJO (the world jewellery
confederation). He answered AJA Magazine’s ques-
tions with pleasure and shared his impressions and
Event Event
The 15th Annual General Meet-
ing of the Armenian Jewellers’ As-
sociation was held in Basel, Switzer-
land on Sunday, March 26, 2011. The
meeting was attended by over 100
members from all over the world.
The main item on the agenda was the
election of a new central board. There
were honored guests from all over
the world, such as Gaetano Cavalieri,
the president of the world jewellery
confederation, world-famous jewel-
lery industry representatives, and, of
course, AJA board members. It was
a pleasant event and everybody was
delighted to have an opportunity to
speak about the aims of AJA Interna-
tional. During the wonderful evening
AJA Magazine had interviews with the
board members and honorable guests,
who shared their impressions about
the elections and their views on the
AJA’s future. Shant Haytayan kindly
shared his thoughts with us.
Mr. Shant-Levon Haytayan
USA, West Coast
The newly-elected leadership of the AJA
and Mr. Setrak Tokatzian — a special guest from Italy
Special guest of the annual meeting — the president
of CIBJO (The world jewellery confederation) —
Mr Gaetano Cavalieri
Mr. Vartkess Knadjian

17. The jewel of the spring
05'11 AJA 33
Jewel of the spring
32 AJA 05'11
- Vaagn, as far as I know, any religious object is usu-
ally full of symbols that bear a very important conceptu-
al burden. Did someone help you understand this theme
when you were preparing the design?
- Of course. The Patriarchal Exarch in Russia Episcop
Ezras told me a lot about what the Catholicos’s crozier
should be like, what has to be on it, what symbols and
what they mean. For example, he said that a snake or a
dragon is an essential element. This is an ancient sym-
bol known not only in Armenia, but everywhere in the
world. A snake (actually a dragon is now more common)
is present on these croziers as a reminder that the pontiff
must be wise. The following words are in the New Testa-
ment: “Be then as wise as snakes, and as gentle as doves.”
The eyes of the dragons on this crozier are made of
rubies. The crozier is often associated with miracles – and
in Biblical stories the crozier has a special power concen-
trated in it, so we decided that the dragons had to have
eyes, and that there should be tenacity in their gaze.
- Why are the dragons’ necks decorated with bands
made of different stones?
- We put the stones of one of the planets around
the head of each dragon. Every planet has a particular
stone: pearl, ruby, emerald, diamond, blue sapphire,
coral or yellow sapphire. Thus the dragons symbolize
more than just earthly wisdom – it’s as if the dragons
are talking to the planets.
- The dragons’ heads are depicted very realistically,
the hand of the sculptor can be felt in this work.
- Absolutely, the 3D models were done by my
brother Ervand Mkrtchian, he is a sculptor. It was he
who made the emblem of the Armenian church and the
double-headed eagle – the symbol of the Catholicos – for
this crozier.
- There is an unusual design on the upper element of
the crozier. What does this complex composition depict?
- Flames are bursting from the jaws of the big-
gest dragon. The upper dragons also have wings and
an enamel design on their bodies that looks like scales.
Over the serpents there is a gold cross covered in enam-
el and gold trim. We borrowed the pattern from the
ancient Armenian books that are preserved at Echmi-
adzin, and mainly used traditional church ornaments.
At the center of the cross there is a ruby and diamonds,
and on all the ends of the cross on the sides there are
sapphires in cup-like sockets.
- Why does the cross stand on an amethyst ball?
- Encrusting the crozier with amethyst is, in essence,
canonical. Amethyst is the stone of the high priests, it
symbolizes open-heartedness, sincerity, inner harmony,
purity and humility.
- The armenian letters Գ(G) and Բ(B) are on the
crozier. What is their significance?
- Those are the initials of the Catholicos to whom the
crozier belongs: Garegin (Գարեգին) and Բ(B) – the sec-
ond letter of the alphabet, which is traditionally put in-
stead of the number 2. Between the letters three amethyst
stripes are visible: they symbolize the Holy Trinity.
- What can you say about the part of the crozier
that he holds?
- On the handle there is an inscription and circles
that are the Armenian version of the swastika, a symbol-
ic depiction of light. In the sockets that are made of gold
lattice there is ruby enamel with diamonds: the elements
were deliberately raised so his hand doesn’t slip. There
are more than 100 details in it.
Lower down the proportions of the pattern on
the lattice are somewhat different, and under it there
is a shaft. We used Indonesian rosewood – we carefully
turned it and imbued it with special oils so that the color
of the wood doesn’t change due to humidity or age. The
violet wood goes with amethyst harmoniously.
Ultimately, we all worked on the creation of this cro-
zier with enormous interest. The result also gives us plea-
sure: when something really turns out well, any craftsman
feels satisfaction with his work, and that’s a great joy. And
I’m happy that the Catholicos liked the crozier.
Vaagn
Mkrtchian
Author of the
Catholicos’s
crozier
A jeweller and
designer, and the
top craftsman
working with
enamel at Estet
Jewellery House,
Vaagn Mkrtchian
combines styles
and works with
abstract images,
trying not to produce
an object, but to express
emotion. He led the group of
jewellerswhoworkedonthecreation
of a crozier for Catholicos of All Armenians
Garegin II, and he told us why the crozier turned out the way it did.

18. 34 AJA 05'11
Rubrikator
05'11 AJA 35
Rubrikator

19. 36 AJA 05'11 05'11 AJA 37
Thestudyofcraftsandtheirdevelopmentplaysagreat
role in the history of the material culture of any nation.
IntheappliedartsoftheArmenianpeopletheartofjewellery(goldandsilver)hasasignificant
place of its own, the sources of which go back to the ancient periods of our history.The Arme-
nian highlands were rich in metal, and the natives were familiar with it since the beginning of
thesecondmillenniumB.C.Moreover,theyevenknewhowtoworkupandusegoldandsilver.
Golden roots Golden roots
5000-
Year-Old
Heritage
jewellery
Armenian
I
n the 1st century B.C. Strabo mentions that
Kharkhdic was especially rich in iron and silver
and that the people living in the mountains there
were not only engaged in agriculture, but were
able to exploit mines as well.
Procopius of Caesaria in his ‘Persian Wars’ (6th cen-
tury A.D.) mentions the names of two fortresses: ‘Paran-
dius’ and ‘Bolon’, which had gold mines in their sur-
roundings exploited by an Armenian supervisor whose
name was Simon.
Metal-working and the existence of gold and silver
mines were just the material basis on which the art of
jewellery in Armenia began to develop.
It is a well-known fact that Armenia had had mul-
tiple commercial ties with neighboring and more distant
countries ever since ancient times and it used to import
expensive goods of different types. But the rich of Ar-
menia would order and buy ornaments, decorations and
household articles mainly from their native goldsmiths .
Ancient historians give rich information on gold
and silver ornamentations, guns, different types of ves-
sels (jars, basins, cups etc.), containers, book frames and
covers. Although we have a comparatively small amount
of relics dating back to the ancient period and Middle
Ages, the ornaments and decorations for Armenian cos-
tumes of later periods are worthy of attention, the best
specimens of which are kept in the Armenian State Mu-
seum of History (ASMH), and in the State Ethnographic
Museum of Armenia (SEM).
Armenia was one of the main centers of the craft
of jewellery, with a large number of goldsmith work-
shops: the art of jewellery was so highly developed
there that goldsmiths in different cities even special-
ized in particular branches.
All this means that Armenia was a leading center
of metalwork and gold wares in the ancient civiliza-
tion of the Middle East. Along with the material basis,
the Armenian masters attributed an inner mystery to
precious metals and stones, seeing in them the symbol
of the heavens, the gods and higher spiritual values. If
you ever visit any of the Armenian historical museums,
you can find thousands of unique discoveries there
which were excavated from historical monuments
in Armenia, really sumptuous examples of Armenian
metalwork and jewellery from the 3rd millennium B.C.
to our days: miniature sculptures, ritual and worship
objects, symbols of power, arms, seals, ornaments and
items of gold-thread embroidery. Almost all issues of
gold, silver and copper coins circulating in historical
Armenia from the 5th century B.C. to the 11th cen-
tury A.D.: coins of the Armenian Arsacid dynasty (Ti-
granes the Great, Artavazdes II), also Greek, Hellenis-
tic, Roman, Byzantine and other coins. Gold and silver
were widely used in the Armenian highland beginning
from the Copper and Stone Age (Eneolithic-V-VI mil.
B.C.). We can find many facts testifying to the exis-
tence of rich metal ores on the territory of Armenia in
the works of Roman and Greek historians. As proof of
this we can also note the archaeological excavation dis-
coveries that were made on the Armenian highlands.
Tigran the Great with four Kings surrounding him
Procopius of Caesaria, «Persian Wars»

20. 38 AJA 05'11 05'11 AJA 39
Beginning from the Bronze Age (IV-II mil. B.C.), gold
and silver began to be widely used among the people.
Gold-smith and silversmith jewellery became the most
popular branches of practical decorative art. Various
samples of gold and silver jewellery, cups, plates and
other findings are distinguished by their artistic compo-
sitions and styles. The Armenian crafts of making jewel-
lery out of gold and silver reached quite a high level of
mastery in the Middle Ages. Many jewellers practiced
in such Armenian cities as Dvin, Ani, Van, Karin, Artsn,
etc., where they also founded their own trade unions.
As a consequence of the division of labor in the trade
unions, jewellery-making split to create more specialized
branches. As a result, silver-making became a separate
craft. However, despite this, many craftsmen continued
to work equally with both silver and gold at the same
time. The ancient Armenian traditions in jewellery-
making continued to be used in subsequent centuries
and have eventually reached our days.
In terms of technical and decorative viewpoints
and features, we can particularly note a few outstanding
schools in Armenian jewellery-making: the schools of
Van-Vaspurakan, Karin, Poqr Hayq, Cilicia, Parskahayq,
Suniq-Artsakh and Yerevan. Armenian jewellery-makers
were also quite popular in the Armenian communities of
Constantinople, Tbilisi, Crimea, Poland, Astrakhan, New
Jugha and others. Each school of jewellery-making was
specialized and skilled at making certain items using par-
ticular jewellery-making techniques. For example, the
Karno school was popular for using grumous and gauze
ornaments in making decorative and practical objects such
as napkin-holders, frontlets, necklaces, belts, handles for
poniards, silver parts for rifles, etc. The Van-Vaspurakan
school was popular for making enameled belts and adorn-
ments, and the Suniq-Artsakh school was known for its
decorative nielloed belts and adornments.
Armenian jewellery-makers used more than 15
techniques and technological methods in their work:
molding in forms and models in wax or clay, ornamen-
tation, forging and molding, beating out ornaments,
preparing tin rolls, plaiting with silver and gold threads,
engraving, trimming, gilding and silver-plating, niello,
enameling, making alloys of gold or silver, and others.
Simultaneously with the gold-making crafts, other
related crafts flourished as well; one of the most popular
was gem-working. The valuable decorative and artistic
works of Armenian gem-workers were quite popular and
they decorated the adornments and clothes of many no-
bles of the East and the West. The Armenian gem-makers
of India achieved great success working with semi-pre-
cious and fake stones. In the 17th-19th centuries one
of every two items of imitation jewelry and fake stones
sold in Europe was the work of Armenian gem-makers.
The best example of the art of Armenian gem-making is
the diamond crown presented to Russian Tsar Aleksey
Mikhailovich. Precious items of Armenian jewellery-
making are now kept in various museums of the world
and in many private collections (the British Museum, the
Louvre, the Hermitage and others). We will tell you the
stories of these pieces every quarter in our magazine.
Medallion with a portrait of the Holy Virgin. An engraved
image of a woman dressed luxuriously is portrayed on a thin
plate of gold. Her hair is trimmed with leaves of grape. C II-I
B.C. village of Hatsarat, Sevan Basin, gold, weight: 7.40 g.
Cup made of gold slab by the techniques of pressing and
mintage. On the body of the cup there is a row of three pairs
of lions standing face to face. The depictions of the animals
were made by the method of stamping and mintage.
CC XVII-XVI B. C. Vanadzor (Kirovakan) gold.
Golden roots Golden roots
The famous Lake Sevan, Armenia
Modern view of the oldest capital of Armenia — Dvin
View of the destroyed capital of Armenia — Ani

21. 40 AJA 05'11 05'11 AJA 41
Golden roots Golden roots
In every Armenian fam-
ily, whether conservative or liberal,
there is a compulsory tradition of
lavishing gifts of gemstones and pre-
ciousmetalupongrownsiblings.The
former are identified by a succinct
and sonorous word – ‘zard’ (զարդ).
The latter may have family signifi-
cance, or be modern ones, specially
ordered or bought. This tradition has
two foundations. Firstly, Armenians
are very practical, understanding
that jewels only increase in value
over time. Secondly, the Armenian
jewellery school is one of the oldest
in the world and its craftsmen have
created real masterpieces since the
dawn of time. The inhabitants of
the Armenian highlands used silver
back in the second millennium B.C.
The unique Armenian art of jewelry
emerged by virtue of the valuable
combination of fine technique and
the endless imagination of the crafts-
men. The arts of gold and silver cast-
ing, engraving, mintage, patterning,
gemstone incrustation, burnishing
and framing were demonstrated in
astounding pieces of décor, religious
and everyday items. Armenians’ se-
rious approach to jewellery is also
demonstrated by the fact that almost
from the period when the Armenian
alphabet was invented bookbinding
out of gold and silver was done to
preserve and decorate texts.
Inga&Anoush, singers.
The photosession by Fresh-Art
ZARDArmenian ornaments

22. Golden roots Golden roots
In the daily life of the Armenian population there
had always been silver and gilded belts, buckles, ribbons,
headpieces, collars, rings, and coffee and tea sets. Today
some of them can be seen at the Armenian State Museum
of History (in Yerevan), the Ethnographic Museum (in
Sardarapat), and the Museum of Echmiadzin Cathedral.
Historical circumstances compelled Armenian
jewellers to work overseas too, especially in the Cau-
casus and the towns of the Mediterranean coast, which
is why pieces of work by Armenian craftsmen may be
found in museum exhibitions and private collections
in many European countries, especially Poland and
Ukraine. In the 15th century, pieces by Armenian jew-
ellers were valued highly in Lvov. They created refined
jewellery out of precious metals and gemstones such
as turquoise, sapphire, jacinth, almandine, and olivine.
Armenian jewelers were especially famous for their
unique ability to decorate weapons with gemstones.
Among the Armenian jewellers working in Lvov was
an Armenian craftsman by the name of Tatsik.
On just one of the swords made by Tatsik 451 gem-
stones of various sizes and shape were incrusted. The
ability of Armenian jewellers to decorate weapons with
a deep incrustation of gold, still unknown in Europe,
was highly valued. The mastering of this technique had
helped the Armenian Pedros Zakharevich become the
palace jeweller of King Jan III Sobieski of Poland.
In Soviet times Armenia was also well known as a
major center of jewellery. One of the leading enterprises
of the Soviet Union engaged in the gemstone faceting of
rough diamonds was in Armenia. There were numerous
jewellery factories too. The traditions are preserved to
this day, and Armenian craftsmen continue to create a
wide variety of items of precious metals and gemstones.
The works of many jewellers have links to the traditions
of craftsmen from Mush, Bitlis and Van, for example,
in Van an original technique of working with enamel
was developed. The works of contemporary jewellers are
based on the ancient school of jewellery of those years,
and that is why their work is so highly valued.
42 AJA 05'11 05'11 AJA 43
In the center of the pectoral made out of various beads is an oval
pendant made of sardonyx with brownish-lacteous veins
(7 х 5 cm), on the right and left of which there are biconical beads
made of sardion. They are followed by gold and sardion beads of
various configurations. The pectoral is finished on both edges with
four rows of small biconical beads made of thin gold plate.
Among the components of the jewel, significant are two big
hollow cylindrical beads made from a thin plate of gold minted
in sequenced rows of plaited and semi-spherical knobs.
The two bead dividers are unique: these are squares with
a two-layer structure with three strips on the surfaces, fringed
with twisted gold thread. The strips are decorated with rows of
“running spirals”made of fine gold wires. The spiral coils are not
laid down but strung up, forming unique pyramided compositions
with a core made of carnelian stones deeply inserted in square
eye-pits. On the back of the minted dividers there are 12 straws in
four rows, through which the bead threads pass, composing
a section of the pectoral.
CC XXII-XXI B.C. Karashamb, gold, agate, carnelian stone.
One of the cylindrical beads on the
thread is drawn on an insert out of
gemstone (agate of the night).
CC XV-XIV B.C. Lchashen, gold.
C VII B.C. Yerevan, Karmir Blur, gold.
A miniature figurine of a frog
C XV B. C. Lchashen, gold.
Spherical, tubular finial of a crosier
or a dagger in the form of three
twisted snake-dragons. C I B. C.
Sisian, gold, metal.
A pectoral in the form of a moon-boat.
CC VI-V B. C. Armavir, gold.

23. 44 AJA 05'11 05'11 AJA 45
Armenian signaturesArmenian signatures
Armenian Signatures in Watchland
T
he Franck Muller Group was founded in
1991 by Vartan Sirmakes and the legendary
watchmaker Franck Muller, and in less than
15 years it became one of the most significant
Haute Horlogerie companies in the world. Its marvelous
headquarters, named Watchland, located in the small
village of Genthod just a few kilometers from Geneva,
has spectacular views of Lake Leman and Mont Blanc.
Key figures: 43,000 Franck Muller watches pro-
duced every year;
9 brands, 450 employees,
7 production sites primarily placed in the canton of
Geneva and in the Jura and
44 boutiques in the world.
It would be too modest to call it just a signature,
because it is rather a deeper imprint on the development
of the watch industry than it might seem at first sight.
AJA’s editor-in-chief, Gayane Manukyan, had an ex-
clusive interview with Mr. Sirmakes at Watchland head-
quarters, which we present to you with great pleasure.
While we were walking in the factory of Frank Muller,
watching how graciously and passionately the professionals
were doing their job, I fell in love with the process. And I
couldn’t help asking Mr. Sirmakes: “Mr. Sirmakes, when did
you fall in love with the watch industry?”
Vartan Sirmakes: When you live here, in Switzer-
land, especially in the French-speaking part, there are
two things surrounding you - watches and banking. I
was 17 years old when I moved to Switzerland and went
inside this world of watchmaking and banking. If I lived
in Milan, maybe I would make clothes or shoes (laugh-
ing). When I was young, I remember that in our fam-
ily everyone was always talking about jewellery, art and
painting. It was part of my life. My father made watches;
my uncle was a famous jeweller. I was born inside this
environment, and maybe this is the main reason why I
chose this profession.
You are a great Armenian patriot, but you never like to
talk about it, why?
Vartan Sirmakes: I am Armenian, I was born in Is-
tanbul and now I live in Geneva. However, I try to visit
and help Armenia as often as possible, as Armenia is my
motherland.
As watchmaking is a part of jewellery-making and you
are a prominent watchmaker of Armenian origin, it is very
important for us to inquire about your expectations from the
Armenian Jewellers’ Association. As you know, the AJA has
elected a new board of directors and a new president here -
on Swiss land. What expectations do you have from the new
leadership?
Vartan Sirmakes: I am a little bit far from the art of
jewellery, and only watches are my passion. Anyway, I
hope that the new team elected on March will try to do
its best to unify Armenian jewellers and watchmakers
who are spread worldwide .
The story of Frank Muller is a story about one brand
growing into seven brands. Everyone can recognize the
watches made by Frank Muller in the huge market of differ-
ent watch brands because oftheir unique design. You passed
through the traditional school of watchmaking, but you also
introduced a new art of watchmaking to the world. Wasn’t it
hard to combine innovation with tradition, and how did you
manage to achieve this?
Vartan Sirmakes: The first brand after Franck
Muller was Pierre Kunz, and he was a watchmak-
er at Watchland. I thought I had to give the tal-
ented watchmakers a chance to make their own
brands and to develop. If you look at the history
of watchmaking, that is really how brands start.
If you have never been to Watchland, be sure to visit it,
and then you will touch the miracle. In this quiet, peace-
ful setting unique, exclusive and complicated, incredible
watches are born, with a sophisticated design, that have
won the hearts of millions.
The man behind the Franck Muller Group, Ar-
menian-born Vartan Sirmakes, has created a unique
formula for building a multi-brand house. The opera-
tion now has 14 production sites throughout Switzer-
land for its seven brands. The majority are in Geneva
and employ more than 800 people. The Franck Muller
brand alone has more than 50 patents registered.
Vartan Sirmakes started making cases and diamond
settings, cases for Cartier before Richmond and all the
cases for Daniel Roth. He met Franck Muller, who was
a watchmaker, and together they started the company
and the brand, Franck Muller, in 1991.
The Father of “Tick-Tacks”
Vartan Sirmakes
Watchland, Geneva

24. 46 AJA 05'11 05'11 AJA 47
A watchmaker is born, he learns his craft, and if
he is really a good one, he goes from the house he
started to putting his own name on his own watches.
And that’s how we grew. When you make your cre-
ation, it is very important to compare every millime-
ter, day by day; millimeter by millimeter you work it
out. And along this long and difficult path you have
to be very careful not to give too much freedom to
your flights of fantasy. You are obliged to respect
and accept the traditions of watchmaking. Therefore,
sometimes it was hard. But we have the most adapted
result now. A unique and recognizable design with all
watchmaking traditions stored inside.
Mr. Sirmakes, you are the CEO of the group, but I would
call you the father of a big family. And your lovely kids are
your watches. I can imagine how difficult it is for you to let
your kids join a new family – their new owners. Isn’t it so?
Vartan Sirmakes: Of course, we all put so much
love and soul in every piece… It is not so easy. A good
watch is born after long hours of work you are doing
with tender care and love, and certainly it is difficult to
part with it, but later you start taking it easier. I think it
is more difficult for the craftsman who directly does the
work, as he spends long hours on the masterpiece – his
child - and then gives it away. Believe me, each piece re-
quires a great deal of work, but the philosophy you need
to follow is that one should focus on what you are doing,
while doing it step by step. You just can’t rush things.
The point is to make sure it is done right.
Today the markets got off to another bad start, and
world finances are in turmoil. You have a very high-end
business. How is your business doing?
Vartan Sirmakes: I think it is a big opportunity for
creators and brands to have a true story, a strong business
base, and also be financially strong. For creative people
who make a good product with a ratio of quality to price
everything will be fine. It’s not like in 1929. Before 1929
we didn’t have the power of production that we do now.
It was not a production society. There are things going
on that don’t make sense. I’m not an economist, but I
will give you one example. Today in Europe you give
money to farmers to not produce. In 1929 you didn’t
have enough butter, you didn’t have bread. Of course,
somewhere today you still have this problem, but in the
world, generally, we are paying money to stop farmers
from producing.
It is always interesting to view fathers passing traditions
to their sons - leaving them for generations. Your eldest son
is involved in watchmaking. He created Cvistos. Did you en-
courage him to get into the business?
Vartan Sirmakes: I think it is excellent. Of course,
my son was born into watchmaking. He grew up inside
watchmaking. And after he worked with me, some time
later he decided to start his own business. He started
making his own watches - Cvistos. It is a better experi-
ence for him to produce and create, but also worry about
the commercial aspect. He also comes into Watchland
one day a week. The day I retire, my son will be much
more prepared to take over the business when he has
done it on his own.
The watchmaking business is also very interesting be-
cause it produces sophisticated watches, for which it take
six months to a year. But you are in a commercial business,
where you need to make a profit. How do you balance the
need to be creative with the need to have efficient production
and actually make money?
Vartan Sirmakes: In fact, it is very, very hard to
work on complicated watches. It takes six months to one
year to make the watch, but before that you need maybe
two or three years of research and development. This
requires a lot of patience, not counting the actual invest-
ment. The secret is to succeed in the complication. If you
finish your research and development in three years, and
you finalize the project, you’re just fine. You don’t lose
money. If you don’t finish, that’s the catastrophe.
If you hadn’t gone into the watch world, what would
your career be?
Vartan Sirmakes: When I was a child, my dream was
to become a footballer, of course. Today I would choose
journalism. To become a journalist you need to have a
unique vision of the world, and you have to see the world
at 360 degrees. I would have been a political journalist.
Not a watchmaking journalist either?
Vartan Sirmakes: No. Right now, with the world
changing so fast, it would be amazing to be a journalist
covering it all. It’s a passionate career.
Do you agree that happy people never keep track of
time?
Vartan Sirmakes: Maybe you are right, but it’s up to
you. The secret is in your head. And in what you have in
your constitution. Many people look at their watches all
the time, others - never. Sometimes if you even don’t con-
sult your watch, you still know what time is it. I hope that
one day people will be happy when they look at the time,
especially if they look at the watches that we make.
You are Armenian. We know that the Armenian people
have a long history and traditions in watchmaking dating
from antiquity. Was it your ancestors’ voices that whispered
to you to choose a career in watchmaking?
Vartan Sirmakes: I am Armenian, I was born in Is-
tanbul and I live in Geneva. And I can say with confi-
dence that the cultural traditions of these three nations
left a deep impact on my life. However, choosing the
profession of watchmaker was my own decision.
How often do you change your own watches?
Vartan Sirmakes: I change them very often. And it
has very little relation to my mood. I change them often to
make myself think about new ideas for creations. I look at
them for a while during my spare time and fantasize about
how I would like to see the next design, or some new ideas
are born while I am looking at them. Watches must always
be in front of me, even when I am driving a car.
Is there anything else that you’d like to tell our readers?
Vartan Sirmakes: I wish courage for everybody. I
don’t worry about my business. In a few months, a few
years, everything will be good. Don’t forget that 300
years before the invention of the train, the plane, and
electricity, watchmaking existed. Imagine 300 years
ahead of these you had this fantastic object - a pocket
watch. It’s incredible.
Part of this interview was kindly provided from
‘Elite Traveler’- the private jet lifestyle magazine.
Armenian signaturesArmenian signatures
Left to right
Vartan Sirmakes, Sassoun Sirmakes (Vartan’s son), Nazareth Sirmakes,
(Vartan’s father), Sisvan Sirmakes (Vartan’s son)

25. 48 AJA 05'11
Rubrikator
05'11 AJA 49
Rubrikator

26. 50 AJA 05'11 05'11 AJA 51
Faces and figuresFaces and figures
“Diamonds are a girl’s best friend,” a famous
Russian song states. For many retailers and watch
brands diamonds are their best friends as well, as
diamond watches are here to stay as a segment
of the market. In many cases diamond watches
greatly outsell their unadorned counterparts. The
success of boosting diamond watches is due to the
Franck Muller Group, headed by Vartan Sirmakes,
the CEO of the company, whose vision was to start
a new watch brand with a legitimate history in dia-
monds, the result of which was Backes & Strauss, a
London watch brand introduced at WPHH for the
first time in 2007.
“We’ve made a very encouraging start,” ac-
knowledges Vartkess Knadjian, managing director
of Backes & Strauss, London. “Without a doubt, our
designs are what make us stand out. The designs
showcase our diamonds very beautifully. For some-
one who always likes to compare like products, we
are offering something completely different.”
Vartkess Knadjian is Armenian, born in Ethiopia.
However, his roots are in Aintab, in southeast Anato-
lia. By 1910 there were already rumblings of trouble in
Turkey, so his family emigrated to Addis Ababa.
The long journey that led Vartkess Knadjian to
the helm of one the most exclusive diamond com-
panies in the world begins with the career of his
father, Antranig Knadjian, born in Addis in 1915.
Knadjian senior was apprenticed as a watchmaker.
Antranig returned to Addis after the Second World
War, and Vartkess was born there to an Armenian
mother from Jerusalem in 1955.
As purveyor of fine watches to the emperor
for some 30 years, Antranig was a frequent and
very welcome visitor to the imperial palaces, oc-
casionally accompanied by his young son.
Coming from this environment, English
boarding school must have been a shock to the sys-
tem. Mr. Knadjian remembers: “I was only 12 years
old, and in those days boarding schools were not
like the five-star resorts they are today.” Vartkess
polished his English, in addition to his Armenian
mother tongue and Amharic, and left to study In-
ternational Relations at the London School of Eco-
nomics with the intention of returning to Addis to
join his father’s company importing Swiss watches.
The Marxists put an end to those plans; with the
coup of 1974 he lost everything. His family re-
trenched in Canada, while Vartkess accepted a six-
month job at Backes & Strauss - the oldest diamond
company in the world, established in 1794 - the
year of the French Revolution, having links with
London since 1812.
A short-term job, it lasted 37 years. Fast-
forward to 2003, and a management buy-out has
made Vartkess Knadjian the principal owner and
CEO of the company.
Vartkess
Knadjian
The second
Armenian signature
in Watchland

27. 52 AJA 05'11 05'11 AJA 53
Faces and figuresFaces and figures
Mr. Antranig Knadjian at watchmaking

28. 54 AJA 05'11 05'11 AJA 55
As Knadjian explains, Backes & Strauss started with
the idea of designing a diamond watch, rather than de-
signing a watch and then figuring out where to set the
diamonds. “The design, from the start, was all about
showcasing the diamonds,” he adds.
“The team from Watchland worked with us. We
briefed them about the brand, we brought them to Lon-
don, we took them around the city showing them the
key elements of historic London, and we derived the in-
spiration from the Britishness of London.” As England
was the center of horology, they decided to give their
diamond watches a London provenance.
Backes & Strauss was established in 1789, and from
the start the company was a jewellery manufacturer, then
became a serious diamond broker in the 1900s, and then
moved into diamond polishing and cutting. The company
still does diamond polishing and cutting, through a differ-
ent division of the company called B&S Diamonds.
Reflecting Backes & Strauss’ history in London, the
brand’s first three collections – the Berkeley, the Pic-
cadilly and the Regent – were inspired by London’s
Regency architecture, notably the work of John Nash.
“Perfection and attention to detail are the hallmarks of
Backes & Strauss watches,” Knadjian insists. “We are go-
ing to focus on these collections for the time being. Ev-
ery year we will come up with an innovation that will
be introduced to the press at the end of the year. We
will do complicated diamond settings, we will introduce
horological complications, but always emphasizing that
we are going to be focusing on diamond watches.”
Unlike many other watch companies, Backes &
Strauss only uses the best diamonds possible, and the
company has the best suppliers in the industry.
“All the round diamonds we use are of ideal cut
and proportion,” Knadjian details. “This is a diamond
polished to perfection - all the angles and all the fac-
ets match each other. They are perfectly symmetrical.
That’s why when you view it from the top you see ar-
rows, and from the bottom you see hearts. If one facet is
out of symmetry, you won’t get that effect. It’s a master
cutter who polishes these diamonds to perfection - you
lose carat weight, but the sparkle and brilliance is second
to none. That’s why when you have a watch set with
these diamonds, they look stunning.”
Not many companies use this ‘hearts and dia-
monds’ cut because it is more expensive than a regu-
larly finely-cut diamond, resulting in more loss and
less carat weight. Backes & Strauss, however, insists
on using it because of its perfection.
Source: Europa Star Magazine Issue
Faces and figuresFaces and figures
Piccadilly Prince Piccadilly Princess
The collection

29. 56 AJA 05'11
N
atural resources — The age-old process of
volcanic and tectonic activity that took place
on the Armenian plateau created an unusual
geological museum in its depths. The rocks
composing the earth’s crust are also embedded there.
Armeniahasiron,copper,molybdenumandpolymetallicores
containing rare earth elements and gold, silver, lead and zinc.
There are deposits of nephelin that are used as raw material in
the production of aluminum and manganese deposits.
Jewellery and diamonds – Jewellery-making and
diamond-processing are considered a very attractive
field for investment in Armenia, based on the existence
of skillful diamond cutters with competitive wage rates,
modern equipment and tax privileges (no taxes on the
import of raw materials or on the export of finished
products) in Armenia. A large proportion of Armenia’s
exports is polished diamonds, imported into Armenia
in their rough state for finishing, thus taking advantage
of Armenia’s skilled jewellers with competitive labor
costs. Today 27 companies with 5,000 employees (2,500
in diamond-processing) are operating in this sector, not
counting individual jewellers. The largest companies
are the Yerevan Jewellery Plant (2,000 employees),
Sapphire Plant (520 employees), Lori Company (420
employees), Shoghakn Plant (408 employees) and the
Diamond Company of Armenia (DCA, 350).
BusinessBusiness
ARMENIA — Interesting Facts
Gold and diamond production in Armenia is consid-
ered of the most attractive spheres for investment based
on the qualified workforce, favorable conditions for wag-
es, new technologies and tax privileges (the import of raw
materials and export of ready-made goods are not taxed).
Years ago cardinal gems and semi-precious gem-
stones were considered to be leading products for ex-
port. Treated cardinal gemstones imported as raw mate-
rials make up a large proportion of exports.
The Russian government establishes quotas for the
annual export of raw diamonds for Armenia. Annually,
30,000 karats of untreated diamonds and 1 million kar-
ats of industrial diamonds are exported for further re-
finement. Industrial diamonds are imported by the State
Committee of Gemstones and Metals of Yakutia through
the company Almazuvelirexport.
There are a number of other western companies im-
porting raw diamonds, the best known of which are Ar-
slanyan Cutting Works and Tashe companies (Belgium).
Arslanyan Cutting Works is the first foreign com-
pany to have invested in this field. It belongs to Arme-
nians from Belgium. In 1992 Arslanyan Cutting Works
also established Lori LLC.
Foreign Trade of Republic of Armenia 2010 according to Statistical Handbook
Product Group Name Export Import
Diamonds, not mounted or set 79,240.6 karats US $59,754.900 193,997.1 karats US $65,455,400
Product Group Amount
Diamond 2,632,780,000 AMD(7,300,000 $US)
Mounted precious or semi-precious stones, not diamonds 106,984,000AMD (300,000 US$)
Jewellery ornaments 1,887,502,000 AMD (5,225,000 US$)
Precious stones and metals 4,627,266,000 AMD (12,850.000 US$)
Diamond Production
Volcanic type of Armenian semi-precious stone
Volcanic type of Armenian agate
05'11 AJA 57
The Diamond Company of Armenia, which
was purchased by the British company Ferfano for
5.5 million USD in 1998, is one of the largest Ar-
menian diamond-processing companies, refining
8,000 karats of raw diamonds per month supplied
by South Africa’s De Beers company. Another
distinguished diamond company, Shoghakn, was
bought by an Israeli company in July of 2000 for
370,000 USD. The company envisages processing
30,000 karats per month.
Diamond-refining is one of the priority areas of
this sphere. Meanwhile, the manufacture of jewellery
products, including the production of gold pieces, gold
watches and the refining of semi-precious gemstones, is
developing rapidly, preserving the traditions of Arme-
nian jewellery.
Yerevan Gold Factory OSC is the main producer
of gold jewellery in Armenia. It was established in
1950 and has around 2,000 employees. Its outputs
are mainly exported to the USA, the Middle East and
CIS countries. The factory has been fully renovated,
which has contributed to a growth in production vol-
umes and expansion of product diversity (currently
tens of thousands of various kinds of gold products
are being manufactured).

30. 58 AJA 05'11
Business
The Gem & Jewellery Show is the 14th annual in-
ternational event, exclusively focused on the fashion
jewellery and accessories industry. The show presents
an extensive range of beautiful gemstones, the latest and
trendy jewellery, watches and much more.
The Gem & Jewellery Show will provide a wonder-
ful chance to meet with the representatives of top U.S.
gem and jewellery companies. Hundreds of exhibitors
are expected to attend this event from across the world
to showcase their latest products. The targeted visitors
at Gem & Jewelry Show 2011 Las Vegas are: jewellery
wholesalers, jewellery designers, jewellery, watch or
clock retailers, agents/distributors, jewellery manufac-
turers, jewellery retailers, department store buyers, stu-
dents and others related to the jewellery industry.
The AJA plans to hold an exhibition in Yerevan,
Armenia on September 22 during the festivities dedicat-
ed to the 20th anniversary of the Independence of the
Armenian Republic. One of the major goals of this big
event is to introduce the AJA to international partners
and clients as an international brand. On the eve of In-
dependence Day prominent Armenians from all over the
world are going to be in Yerevan. And on this occasion
everyone will have an opportunity to get to know Ar-
menian jewellers. The exhibition in Yerevan organized
by the AJA will become the best jewel decorating the
holiday. However, business is not going to a priority for
the first AJA exhibition, although it is still an indispen-
sible part of the activities. With this exhibition the AJA
is rather making a spiritual and cultural investment.
The September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem
Fair’s 28-year track record of excellence has made
it a prominent fixture in the global jewellery trade’s
events calendar. Jewellers, traders and connoisseurs
will troop en masse to this important industry gath-
ering, helping to make it the world ’s number one
fine jewellery event in 2011 and also the largest fair
ever in terms of exhibition space – in any industry –
in Hong Kong. The September fair, which previously
occupied two world-class venues, further expanded
in 2011 from eight halls to nine halls in AsiaWorld-
Expo (AWE), bringing the total exhibition space in
AWE to 60,000 square meters.
Forthcoming Jewellery Shows
JCK Las Vegas: June 3 – 6, 2011
AGTA GemFair™ at JCK: June 2 – 7, 2011
Equipment, Technology & Supplies (ETS): June 3 – 7, 2011
Las Vegas Gem & Jewellery Show 2011
YEREVAN JEWELLERY SHOW 2011 (September 22)
September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair 2011
05'11 AJA 59

31. 12 Daniel Rd #301
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Phone.: +1(973) 227 32 30
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Phone: +7 (985) 181 07 79