3. Overview
What did we pack? (both)
Philosophy of Climbing Light (KK)
Defining Necessary (KK)
Know Your System (JK)
Tradeoffs with Comfort
Physical Comfort (KK)
Risk and Contingency Planning (JK)
Allocation of Group Gear (JK)
By the Numbers – Gear Weight Comparisons (both)
4. What did we pack?
Packing for Rainier by the “Ten Essential Systems”…
plus one.
Packing for the airline
5. Philosophy of Climbing Light
Andrew Skurka
Comfort hiking versus
camping
Knowledge doesn’t
weigh anything
Don’t pack out of fear
Gear multi-functional
Ed Viesters
Alpine ascent style of
climbing
Team-based systems
6. Define Necessary
You want me to carry 6
oz of bug spray?!?
Clothing
Sleep System
Technical Gear
Food and Hydration
First Aid
7. Know Your System
“Knowledge doesn’t weigh anything”
Revise and improve your system as
you go.
What are your necessary items versus
nice to have items versus luxury
items?
Don’t climb light for the first time on
Rainier.
Jason 47 lbs
(carrying boots and rope)
8. Tradeoffs with Comfort: Physical
Decide how and when
Kristina:
Comfortable Hiking
(32 lbs)
you are willing to be
uncomfortable
Hiking
Camping
Kelly:
Comfortable Camping
(67 lbs)
9. Tradeoffs with Comfort: Risk
Dealing with Risk
Contingency Planning
and Probability: What if
you get caught in a
whiteout on Grey’s and
Torrey’s in August?
Facts versus myths
Don’t overly “customize”
10. Allocation of Group Gear
Equal division of all group gear
Best when climbers are of similar
size
When climbers are not
comfortable identifying weight
Proportional allocation based on
body weight
When there is wide diversity in
the size of climbers
Distribution that will best support
the success of the team
Position on the rope; special skills
Diversity in the fitness of the
climbing team
A team member is having a bad
climbing day
Rope Team + our Fearless Leader (Sharon right)
11. By the Numbers
Item: 6' Sleeping Bags
Mountain Hardware 15
Mountain Hardware 0
Western Mountaineering 10 degree
Western Mountaineering 0 degree
Marmot 15 degree
Marmot 0 degree
Ounces
31
46
36
48
30
44
Item: Hoodless Down Jackets
Pategonia Down Sweater
Pategonia Rubicon
North Face Thunder Micro Down
North Face Nuptse 2
Eddie Bauer Downlight Sweater
Eddie Bauer Mountain Guide Down
Ounces
11
36
14
24
13
22
Item: 2 Person Tents
North Face EV2
North Face Trango 2
Bibler Eldorado
Bibler Fitzroy
Hilleberg Jannu
Hilleberg Tarra
Ounces
82
157
81
113
102
123
Item: 60m Ropes
Petzl Nomad 9.8mm
Petzl Fuse 9.4mm
Mammut Infinity 9.5mm
Mammut Serenity 8.9mm
Beal Diablo 9.8mm
Beal Joker 9.1mm
Ounces
133.3
118.5
122.8
110.1
129.1
91.0
12. Conclusion
You must be comfortable with the amount of gear that you are carrying
Knowledge is power… and knowledge is weightless
Know how to use your gear in multiple ways
Know the weight of your gear
Experiment with systems
Know the route, the conditions, and the needs those dictate
Do not skimp on weight at the risk of the team
Find your balance point between comfort for travel and for camp
Set expectations for group gear ahead of time and in a way that
supports you goals
Light weight isn’t a set of tricks, it’s a consistent, mental approach
considering your personal preference for trade-offs
