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COTTON YARN MANUFACTURING PROCESS
DIPLOMA IN TEXTILE & APPEREL TECHNOLOGY
SRI LANKA INSTITUTE OF TEXTILE & APPAREL
2014/2015
Name : E.C.Maduranga Ediriweera
Reg , No : DTAT-P/21/2014
Name Of Department : Courtaulds Clothing (PVT) ltd
Name Of Lecturer : Mr.N. P. P .S. K. Pathirana
Date : 21/02/2015

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
I would like to express my special thanks of gratitude to my teacher Mr.Panagoda as well
as our lecturer who gave me the golden opportunity to do this wonderful project on the
topic Cotton yarn manufacturing, which also helped me in doing a lot of Research and i
came to know about so many new things
I am really thankful to them.
Secondly i would also like to thank my parents and friends who helped me a lot in
finishing this project within the limited time.
I am making this project not only for marks but to also increase my knowledge.
THANKS AGAIN TO ALL WHO HELPED ME.

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CONTENTS PAGES
1. Cotton 4
1.1 Cotton Production & Harvesting 5
1.2 Seed Cotton Storage 6
1.3 Ginning 6-7
2 Cotton Yarn Manufacturing Process 8
2.1 Textile Yarn Manufacturing 8
2.2 Carded yarn manufacturing flow chart 9
2.3 Combed yarn manufacturing flow chart 9-10
2.4 Blow room 11
2.4.1 Basic operations involved in the blow room 11
2.4.2 Objects of blow room 12
2.4.3 Actions of blow room 12
2.5 Carding 12-13
2.5.1 Objects of carding 14
2.5.2 Tasks of carding 14
2.6 Draw Frame 14
2.6.1 Actions Involved in Draw Frame 15
2.6.2 Tasks of Draw frame 15-16
2.7 Combing 17
2.7.1Definition of Combing 17
2.7.2 Working principle of cotton combing 17
2.7.3Objectives of Combing 18
2.8 Speed Frame 18
2.8.1 Necessity of Speed Frame 18
2.8.2 Objects/ Functions of Speed Frame 19
2.8.3 Operations Involved in Simplex Machine 19
2.9 Ring Spinning 20
2.9.1What is Ring Spinning 20-21
2.9.2.Objectives of Ring Spinning 22
2.10 Winding 22
2.10.1A basic diagram of winding m/c 22
2.10.2 Following are the tasks of winding process 23
3. Yarns 24
3.1 Definition of Yarn 24
3.2 Yarn Classification 24
3.3 Types of cotton yarn 25
3.4 Differences between card yarn and combed yarn 25
3.4.1 Carded yarn 25
3.4.2 Combed yarn 26
3.5 Yarn Count 26
3.5.1 Types of yarn count 26
3.5.2 Indirect count 26
3.5.3 Direct count 27
4. Yarn Fault 27
4.1. Slubs 27
4.2 Neps 28
4.3 Thick and Thin plces 29
4.4 Soft Yarn 30
4.5 Oil Stained Yarn 31
4.6 Bad Piecing 32
4.7 Hairiness 33
4.8 Foreign Matters 34
4.9 Spun In Fly 35

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1. Cotton
No one knows exactly how old cotton is. Scientists searching caves in Mexico found
bits of cotton bolls and pieces of cotton cloth that proved to be at least 7,000 years old.
They also found that the cotton itself was much like that grown in America today.
In the Indus River Valley in Pakistan, cotton was being grown, spun and woven
into cloth 3,000 years BC. At about the same time, natives of Egypt’s Nile valley were
making and wearing cotton clothing.
Arab merchants brought cotton cloth to Europe about
800 A.D. When Columbus discovered America in 1492, he found cotton growing in the
Bahamas Islands. By 1500, cotton was known generally throughout the world.
Cotton seed are believed to have been planted in Florida in 1556 and in Virginia
in 1607. By 1616, colonists were growing cotton along the James River in Virginia.
Cotton was first spun by machinery in England in 1730. The industrial revolution
in England and the invention of the cotton gin in the U.S. paved the way for the important
place cotton holds in the world today.
Eli Whitney, a native of
Massachusetts, secured a patent on the cotton gin in 1793, though patent office records
indicate that the first cotton gin may have been built by a machinist named Noah Homes
two years before Whitney’s patent was filed. The gin, short for engine, could do the work
10 times faster than by hand.
The gin made it possible to supply large quantities
of cotton fibres to the fast-growing textile industry. Within 10 years, the value of the U.S.
cotton crop rose from $150,000 to more than $8 million.

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1.1 Cotton Production & Harvesting
After cotton has been harvested, producers who use conventional tillage practices
cut down and chop the cotton stalks. The next step is to turn the remaining residue
underneath the soil surface. Producers who practice a style of farming called conservation
tillage often choose to leave their stalks standing and leave the plant residue on the surface
of the soil.
In the spring, farmers prepare for planting in several
ways. Producers who plant using no-till or conservation tillage methods, use special
equipment designed to plant the seed through the litter that covers the soil surface.
Producers, who employ conventional tillage practices, plow or “list” the land into rows
forming firm seed-beds for planting. Producers in south Texas plant cotton as early as
February. In Missouri and other northern parts of the Cotton Belt, they plant as late as
June.
Seeding is done with mechanical planters which cover as many as 10 to 24 rows at
a time. The planter opens a small trench or furrow in each row, drops in the right amount
of seed, covers them and packs the earth on top of them. The seed is planted at uniform
intervals in either small clumps or singularly. Machines called cultivators are used to
uproot weeds and grass, which compete with the cotton plant for soil nutrients, sunlight
and water.
About two months after planting, flower buds called squares appear on
the cotton plants. In another three weeks, the blossoms open. Their petals change from
creamy white to yellow, then pink and finally, dark red. After three days, they wither and
fall, leaving green pods which are called cotton bolls.
Inside the boll, which is
shaped like a tiny football, moist fibres grow and push out from the newly formed seeds.
As the boll ripens, it turns brown. The fibres continue to expand under the warm sun.
Finally, they split the boll apart and the fluffy cotton bursts forth. It looks like white
cotton candy.
Since hand labour is no longer used in the harvest cotton, the crop is
harvested by machines, either a picker or a stripper. Cotton picking machines have
spindles that pick (twist) the seed cotton from the burrs that are attached to plants’ stems.
Doffers then remove the seed cotton from the spindles and knock the seed cotton into the
conveying system.

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Conventional cotton stripping machines use rollers equipped with alternating bats and
brushes to knock the open bolls from the plants into a conveyor.
A second kind of stripper
harvester uses a broadcast attachment that looks similar to a grain header on a combine.
All harvesting systems use air to convey and elevate the seed cotton into a storage bin
referred to as a basket. Once the basket is full, the stored seed cotton is dumped into a boll
buggy, trailer or module builder.
1.2SeedCotton Storage
Once harvested, seed cotton must be removed from the harvester and stored before
it is delivered to the gin. Seed cotton is removed from the harvester and placed in
modules, relatively compact units of seed cotton. A cotton module, shaped like a giant
bread loaf, can weigh up to 25,000 pounds.
1.3 Ginning
From the field, seed cotton moves to nearby gins for separation of lint and seed. The
cotton first goes through dryers to reduce moisture content and then through cleaning
equipment to remove foreign matter. These operations facilitate processing and improve
fibre quality. The cotton is then air conveyed to gin stands where revolving circular saws
pull the lint through closely spaced ribs that prevent the seed from passing through. The
lint is removed from the saw teeth by air blasts or rotating brushes, and then compressed
into bales weighing approximately 500 pounds. Cotton is then moved to a warehouse for

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storage until it is shipped to a textile mill for use.
A typical gin will process about 12 bales per hour, while some of today’s more
modern gins may process as many as 60 bales an hour.
1. Module Feeder 11. Conveyor Distributor
2. Suction Telescopes 12. 9000 Feeder
3. Big-J Feed Control 13. 161 Gin Stand
4. Vertical Flow Drier 14. Centrifugal Cleaner
5. Incline Cleaner 15. 24-D Tandem Lint Cleaners
6. Stripper Cleaner 16. Battery Condenser
7. Stick Machine 17. Covered Lint Slide
8. Tower Drier 18. Belt Feeder
9. Incline Cleaner 19. 9300 Up-Packing Universal Density Bale Press
10. Impact Cleaner 20. Bale Tying
21. Bale Bagging And Conveying

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2. Cotton Yarn Manufacturing Process
Yarn manufacturing is a sequence of processes that convert raw cotton fibres into yarn
suitable for use in various end-products. A number of processes are required to obtain the clean,
strong, uniform yarns required in modern textile markets. Beginning with a dense package of
tangled fibres (cotton bale) containing varying amounts of non-lint materials and unusable fibre
(foreign matter, plant trash, motes and so on), continuous operations of opening, blending, mixing,
cleaning, carding, drawing, roving and spinning are performed to transform the cotton fibres into
yarn.
Even though the current manufacturing processes are highly developed,
competitive pressure continues to spur industry groups and individuals to seek new,more efficient
methods and machines for processing cotton which, one day, may supplant today’s systems.
However,for the foreseeable future, the current conventional systems of blending, carding,
drawing, roving and spinning will continue to be used. Only the cotton picking process seems
clearly destined for elimination in the near future.
Yarn manufacturing produces yarns for various woven or
knitted end-products (e.g.,apparel or industrial fabrics) and for sewing thread and cordage. Yarns
are produced with different diameters and different weights per unit length. While the basic yarn
manufacturing process has remained unchanged for a number of years,processing speeds,control
technology and package sizes have increased. Yarn properties and processing efficiency are
related to the properties of the cotton fibers processed. End-use properties of the yarn are also a
function of processing conditions.
2.1Textile Yarn Manufacturing
If you want to make a yarn you will have two methods to follow.
One is Carded yarn manufacturing method and another is Combed yarn manufacturing
method.
Carded yarn manufacturing method.
Combed yarn manufacturing method

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2.2 Carded yarn manufacturing flow chart
Combed yarn is most precious, finer and thinner than
the carded yarn. Because the Carded Yarn is produced by following some less manufacturing
steps than the Combed Yarn
Input Material Processing Machines Output Materials
Step 1
Raw Fibre Blow Room Lap
Step 2
Lap Carding Carded Sliver
Step 3
Carded Sliver Draw Frame Draw Frame Sliver
Step 4
Draw Frame Sliver Fly /Speed Frame Roving
Step 5
Roving Ring Spinning Yarn
(Spinning Bobbin)
Step 6
Spinning Bobbin Winding Cone
2.3 Combed yarn manufacturing flow chart
Combed yarn is more precise than card yarn. Here is the process flowchart of Combed
Yarn. The main purpose of Combed yarn manufacturing is to create a yarn which is
highly finer and highly qualified.

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Input Material Processing Machines Output Materials
Step 1
Raw Fibre Blow Room Lap
Step 2
Lap Carding Carded Sliver
Step 3
Carded Sliver Draw Frame 1 Draw Frame Sliver
Step 4
Draw Frame Sliver Sliver Lap Lap
Step 5
Lap Ribbon Lap Ribbon Lap Sliver
Step 6
Ribbon Lap Sliver Comber Combed Sliver
Step 7
Combed Sliver Drew Frame 2 Draw Frame Sliver
Step 8
Draw Frame Sliver Fly /Speed Frame Roving
Step 9
Roving Ring Spinning Yarn
(Spinning Bobbin)
Step 10
Spinning Bobbin Winding Cone

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2.4Blow room
The section where the supplied compressed cotton bale turns into a uniform lap of
particular length by opening, cleaning, blending or, mixing is called blow room section. It
is the first step of spinning. The section consist a number of different machines used in
succession to open and clean the fibres.
2.4.1. Basicoperations involved in the blow room:
● Opening- Opening is the first operation in the blow room carried out to the stage of
flocks in the blow room and to the stage of individual fibres in the cards.
● Cleaning- To remove the impurities, foreign materials and the raw materials as clean as
possible.
● Dust removal- To remove the dusts which are completely enclosed in the flocks.
● Blending- To achieve the required quality of yarn by blending different kinds of cotton
into a particular ratio.
●Even feed of the material- To produce a lap of uniform weight per unit length or, to
process the maximum quality which is suitable for carding.

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2.4.2 Objects of blow room:
● Opening- Opening of compressed cotton bales and cotton bales are made into small
tufts.
● Cleaning- To eliminate dust, dirt, broken leaf, seed particles, grass and other foreign
impurities from the fibre.
● Blending/mixing- To produce a comparatively good quality cotton fibre by mixing
different types of cotton together.
● Lap forming-
(a) To convert the opened and cleaned fibre into a sheet of particular width and uniform
weight/unit length is called lap.
(b) To give a cylindrical shape to the pre determined lap by winding it in the lap pin and
to make it suitable for the next process carding.
2.4.3. Actions of blow room:
(a) Action of opposite spike(Opening)
(b) Action of air current(Transport Cleaning)
(c) Action of beater and grid bar(Cleaning and opening)
(d) Action of regulating motion(Uniform output)
2.5 Carding
Carding is the second stage of cotton spinning. It is defined as the reduction of
entangled mass of fibres to filmy web by working them between two closely spaced
relatively moving surfaces closed with sharp points i.e. wires.
The process of using a card (a
thistle or teasel) for combing textile fibres. This consists of combing or brushing fibres
until they are straightened and placed parallel. For this, the imperfect fibres and other
impurities have to be removed. James Hargreaves and Louis Paul were two of the persons
concerned with this invention and improvements to carding. Since then, innumerable
attempts have been made to improve these machines, but in spite of this and also the latest
improvements made, carding remains essentially the same as established nearly 200 years
ago.

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Since the functions of the card are to place the fibres parallel and
remove other impurities so that perfect fibres can be drawn in sliver, the rollers of carding
machine have to be so arranged, as would perform these functions perfectly.
Carding machine consists of 3 cylinders, covered with cards. (1) Taker-in is
smallest, (2) Main cylinder is the largest and (3) The doffer. The outer contact cylinder lap
feeds cotton to roller C, which rotates on a smooth iron table D. Here all the dirt is
removed, and the fibres are straightened by combing. The cotton then passes along these
cylinders as shown by arrows. The flats further flatten the fibres and also place them loose
but parallel. When these are ultimately fed to doffer, its teeth draw these in light fleece
and these are then further drawn into slivers, and deposited into coiler can G.

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2.5.1 Objects of carding
 Opening and cleaning: To open and clean the fibres at single stage.
 To make the fibre straight and parallel (Parallelization of fibres)
 To remove the small trash particles which have not been taken out from the blow
room line.
 To remove the naps and motes.
 Individualization of fibres ; i,e. separation of fibres from each others.
 Elimination of the remaining impurities.
 Attenuation; draft.
 To produce thick rope form of fibres called slivers which is suitable for subsequent
processing.
2.5.2 Tasks of carding
 Opening of individual fibres.
 Elimination impurities.
 Elimination of dust.
 Disentangling of naps.
 Elimination of short fibres.
 Fibre blending.
 Fibre orientation.
 Sliver formation.
2.6 Draw Frame.
Draw frame is a machine for combining and drawing slivers of a textile fiber (as of hemp
for rope manufacture or cotton for spinning). Drawing is the operation by which slivers
are blended, doubled and leveled. In short staple spinning the term is only applied to the
process at a draw frame.
In drawing slivers are elongated when passing
through a group of pair rollers, each pair is moving faster than previous one.

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2.6.1 Actions Involved in Draw Frame
Drafting
It is the process of increasing length per unit weight of sliver. It is mainly due to
peripheral speed of the rollers.
Doubling
The process of combing two or more carded sliver into a single form is called
doubling. In draw frame m/c generally six slivers are fed to convert into one i.e. six
doubling.
Drawing
In the cotton industry the term is applied exclusively to processing on the draw
frame, where the operation is one of doubling and drafting. Drawing= Drafting +
Doubling.
Diagram of draw frame
2.6.2 Tasks of Draw frame
i. Equalizing
ii. Parallelizing
iii. Blending
iv. Dust removal

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i. Equalizing
One of the main tasks of draw frame is improving evenness over short, medium and
especially long terms. Carded slivers are fed to the draw frame have degree on unevenness
that cannot be tolerated in practice and slivers from the comber contain the “infamous”
piecing. It is obscured by draw frame.
Equalizing is always performed by a first process, namely doubling and can optionally
also be performed by a second process, namely auto leveling. The draft and the doubling
have the same value and lie in the range of 6 to 8.
ii. Parallelizing
To obtain an optional value for strength in the yarn characteristics, the fibers must be
arranged parallel in the fibre strand. The draw frame has the tasks of creating this parallel
arrangement. It fulfils the task by way of the draft, since every drafting step leads to
straightening the fibres.
iii. Blending
In addition to the equalizing effect, doubling also provides a degree of compensation of
raw material variation by blending. Their results are exploited in particular way in the
production of blended yarns comprising cotton or synthetic blends. At the draw frame
metering of the individual components can be carried out very simply be selection of the
number of slivers entering the machines.
iv. Dust Removal
Dust is steadily becoming a greater problem both in processing and for the personnel
involved. It is therefore important to remove dust to the greatest practical extent at every
possible point within the overall process.

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2.7 Combing
2.7.1Definition of Combing
Removing short fibres, neps and impurities by using combs is called combing.It is
the process of separation of long desirable fibres of same length from the short fibres,
neps and all remaining foreign materials of the fibre stuck. The fibres also become straight
and parallel.
2.7.2 Working principle of cotton combing
All the combers operate intermittently, both ends of the fibres are combed
separately by needles and the continuity of the strand is maintained by an ingenious
method of piecing up the separated combed tufts, shortly, the process is operated as
follows –
 The lap prepared for combing is fed into the machine between the feed roller and
the bottom nipper. At the front of the nipper, the top nipper is positioned to gripe
the lap as it passes to be combed at the front end of a fringe.
 The protruding fibres beyond the nipping point are combed by the passage of raws
of needles fastened of a cylinder and situated below the lap. The cylinder with the
needles revolves and carries away the short fibres, neps, and impurities from the
front part of the fringe. The wastage are removed from the cylinder needles by a
brush and collected around an aspirator.
 When the cylinder comb completes its action, the top comb then comes down to
perform its action at the back part of the fibre fringe. Meanwhile, the partly
combed fibres are withdrawn through the top comb by detaching rollers.

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 When all the combed fibres have been withdrawn by the detaching roller, the top
comb is withdrawn and the cylinder comb operates on new sets of fibres as before.
 The top comb operates again but before the rollers draw away the newly combed
fibres, then turn backwards a little so that, the new fibres can be over lapped with
those withdrawn in the previous combing and in this way the continuity of the
combed web of fibres is maintained.
 The combed web delivered by the rollers is passed through a trumpet to
consolidate the fibres and to make a sliver which is pulled along a table alongside
other slivers from the other combers delivered by the same machine. 6 or 8 slivers
are drawn into a single sliver by a drafting mechanism at the end of the sliver table
and passes into a sliver can.
2.7.3 Objectives of Combing
 To remove naps in the carded sliver.
 To make the fibre more parallel and straight.
 To produce a uniform sliver of required per unit length.
 To remove the fibre shorter than a predetermined length.
 To remove remaining impurities in the comber lap.
2.8 SpeedFrame
Simplex is an intermediate process in which fibres are converted into low twist lea
called roving. The sliver which is taken from draw frame is thicker so it is not suitable for
manufacturing of yarn. Its purpose is to prepare input package for next process. This
package is to prepare on a small compact package called bobbins. Roving machine is
complicated, liable to fault, causes defect adds to the production costs and deliver the
product. In this winding operation that makes us roving frame complex. There are two
main basic reasons for using roving frame.
2.8.1 Necessity of Speed Frame:
1. The first reason is related to the required draft. Sliver is a thick, untwisted strand
that tends to be hairy and to create fly. The draft needed to convert this to a yarn is in the
region of 300-500. The drafting arrangements of ring spinning machines, in their current
forms, are not capable of processing this strand in a single drafting operation to create a
yarn of short-staple fibers that meets all the normal demands on such yarns. The fine ,

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twisted roving is significantly better suited to this purpose.
2.The second reason is that draw frame cans represent the worst conceivable mode
of transport and presentation of feed material to the ring spinning frame.
2.8.2 Objects/ Functions of Speed Frame:
1.Attenuation of drawn sliver to form roving of required count by drafting.
2. Insert small amount of twist to give required strength of roving.
3. Wind the twisted roving on to the bobbin.
4. Build the roving in bobbin such a form which will facilitate handling,
withdrawing & transfer to the next process.
2.8.3 Operations Involved in Simplex Machine:
1.Creeling
2.Drafting
3.Twisting
4.Winding
5.Building
6.Doffing
Creeling
To feed the sliver by the help of several rows of driver rollers to the machine.
 Creel draft
 Creel Stop motion
 Block creeling
Drafting
To reduce the wt/unit length of sliver to make it suitable for ring spinning system.
Twisting
To insert small amount of twist to give required strength of roving.
Winding
To wind the twisted roving on to bobbin.
Building

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To build the roving in bobbin such a form which will facilitate handling, withdrawing &
transfer to the next process.
Doffing
To replace an empty bobbin at the place of full roving bobbin.
2.9 Ring Spinning
The Ring Spinning is the most widely used form of spinning machine due to
significant advantages in comparison with the new spinning processes. The ring spinning
machine is used in the textile industry to simultaneously twist staple fibres into yarn and
then wind it onto bobbins for storage. The yarn loop rotating rapidly about a fixed axis
generates a surface referred to as "balloon". Ring frame settings are chosen to reduce yarn
hairiness and the risk of glazing or melting the fibre
2.9.1 What is Ring Spinning?
Ring Spinning is the oldest of the present day spinning processes. Fiber material is
supplied to the ring-spinning machine in the form of roving. The fiber mass of the roving
is reduced by a drafting unit. The twist inserted moves backwards and reaches the fibers
leaving the drafting unit. The fibers lay around one another in concentric helical paths.
The normal forces encountered by the fibers enhance the adhesive forces between the
fibers and prevent fibers from flying or slipping past each other under the tensile strain.

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It is the process of further drawing out roving to the final yarn count
needed, inserting twist to the fibres by means of a rotating spindle and winding the yarn
on a bobbin. These three stages take place simultaneously and continuously.
A mechanically driven
spindle, on which the yarn package firmly sits, is responsible for twist. A stationary ring is
around the spindle, which holds the traveler. Yarn from the drafting unit is drawn under
the traveler, and then led to the yarn package. In order to wind the twisted yarn on a
bobbin tube carried by the spindle, the traveler is required to cooperate with the spindle.
The traveler moves on the ring without any physical drive, but is carried along by the yarn
it is threaded with. The rotation rate of traveler is lower than the spindle, and this
difference in the speeds of traveler and the spindle enables the winding of the yarn on the
tube. A controlled up and down movement of the ring determines the shape of the yarn
package, called Cop or Bobbin. Ring spinning technology provides the widest range in
terms of the yarn counts it can produce.
Ring spinning is a
comparatively expensive process because of its slower production speeds and the
additional processes (roving and winding) required for producing ring spun yarns. Ring
spun yarns produce high quality and are mainly produced in the fine (60 Ne, 10 tex) to
medium count (30 Ne, 20 tex) range, with a small amount produced in the coarse count
(10 Ne, 60 tex) range. End uses include high quality underwear, shirting, towels.The
fibers in the ring yarn are highly parallel and helical in nature, and the fiber arrangement
is uniform along the thickness of the yarn. The yarn has a compact structure, with
essentially no wrapper or hooked fibers. The self-locked structure is the result of intensive
fiber migration, which in turn is influenced by the triangular geometry of the spinning
zone and the high spinning tensions. The high axial strength of the yarn is the result of
unique self-locked structure.

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2.9.2. Objectives of Ring Spinning
 To draft the roving fed to the ring spinning frame i,e to convert roving into very fine strand
called yarn.
 To impart strength to the yarn by inserting the necessary amount of twist.
 To collect twisted strand called yarn onto handy and transportable package by winding the
twisted thread on a cylindrical bobbin or tube.
2.10 Winding
In spinning process; winding are the last steps. After winding yarn package are
used for making woven or knitted fabrics. Winding process can be defined as the transfer
of spinning yarn from one package to another large package (cone, spool, cheese, pirn
etc).one the other hand it can be defined as the transfer pf yarn from bobbin, hanks etc
into a convenient from of package containing considerable long length of yarn. A process
of accumulating yarn on a package to facilitate the next process is called as winding.
2.10.1 A basic diagram of winding m/c:

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2.10.2 Following are the tasks of winding process
 Extraction of all disturbing yarn faults such as the short, long thick ,long thin,
spinners doubles, etc
 Manufacture of cones having good drawing - off properties and with as long a
length of yarn as possible
 paraffin waxing of the yarn during the winding process
 introduction into the yarn of a minimum number of knots
 achievement of a high machine efficiency i.e high produciton level
The winding process therefore has the basic function of obtaining a larger package
from several small ring bobbins. This conversion process provides one with the possibility
of cutting out unwanted and problematic objectionable faults. The process of removing
such objectionable faults is called as yarn ‘ clearing’ .
Practical experience has proven that winding alters the yarn structure.This
phenomenon does not affect yarn evenness, but affect the following yarn properties
 thick places
 thin places
 neps
 hairiness
 standard deviation of hairiness
If winding tension is selected properly, the following tensile properties are not affected
 tenacity
 elongation
 work- to- break
But excessive tension in winding will deteriorate the above said tensile properties.
Changes in the yarn surface structure due to winding cannot be avoided. Since the
yarn is accelerated from zero speed to 1200 or 1350 meters per min in a few milli seconds
while being pulled off the bobbin, dragged across several deflection bars and eyelets,

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forced into a traverse motion at speed that make it invisible, and finally rolled up into a
firm construction called package or cone.
3.Yarns
3.1 Definition of Yarn
A yarn is a constructed assemblage of textile fibers which acts as a unit in fabric
formation.
3.2 Yarn Classification
1. Staple Fiber Yarns or Spun Yarns(single yarn):
Spun yarns are made by mechanical assembly and twisting together(spinning) of staple
fibers. Ring spinning, Rotor spinning, Wrap spinning, Air-jet spinning etc. machines are
used to produced this spun or single yarns.
2. Ply Yarn:
Single yarns are used in the majority of fabrics for normal textile and clothing
applications, but in order to obtain special yarn features, particularly high strength and
modulus for technical and industrial applications, ply yarns are often needed. A folded or
ply yarn is produced by twisting two or more single yarns together in one operation, and a
cabled yarn is formed by twisting together two or more folded yarns or a combination of
folded and single yarns. The twisting together of several single yarns.

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Increases the tenacity of the yarn by improving the binding-in of the fibers on the
outer layers of the component single yarns. Ply yarns are also more regular, smoother and
more hard wearing. The direction of twisting is designated as S or Z, just as in single
yarns. Normally the folding twist is in the opposite direction to that of the single yarns.
3. Filament Yarns:
A filament yarn is made from one or more continuous strands called filaments
where each component filament runs the whole length of the yarn. Those yarns composed
of one filament are called monofilament yarns, and those containing more filaments are
known as multifilament yarns. For apparel applications ,a multifilament yarn may contain
as few as two or three filaments or as many as 50 filaments. In carpeting, for example, a
filament yarn could consist of hundreds of filaments, Most manufactured fibers have been
produced in the form of a filament yarn. Silk is the only major natural filament yarn.
3.3 Types of cotton yarn
There are two types of cotton yarn according to their manufacturing process,
1. Carded yarn.
2. Combed yarn.
3.4 Differences between card yarn and combed yarn.
3.4.1 Carded yarn
The yarn is more hairy.
 The yarn is more irregular.
 The yarn is cheaper.
 The yarn is less shiny.
 Some trash may be present in the yarn.
 Neaps can be present in the yarn.
 Possibility of irregular twist distribution in the yarn.

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3.4.2 Combed yarn
 The yarn is less hairy.
 The yarn is more regular.
 The yarn is more costly.
 The yarn is shinier.
 No trash can be present in the yarn.
 Neaps are not available in the yarn.
3.5 Yarn Count
The yarn count is a numerical expression which defines its fineness or coarseness. It also
expresses weather the yarn is thick or thin. A definition is given by the textile institute – “Count is
a number which indicates the mass per unit length or the length per unit mass of yarn
3.5.1 Types of yarn count:
Indirect system - English, Metric, Worsted.
Direct system - Tex, Denier, Lbs/Spindle.
3.5.2 Indirect count
The count of yarn expresses the number of length units in one weight unit. Thus higher
the count, finer the yarn. The system is generally used for cotton, worsted, linen (wet
spun) etc.
English system
It is defined as the number of hanks 840 yds per pound is called yarn count
Metric system
It is defined as the number of hank (1000m) per kg.
Worsted system
It is defined as the number of hanks (540yds) per pound.

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3.5.3 Direct count
The count of yarn expresses the no. of weight units in one length unit. Thus higher the
count, coarser the yarn. The system is generally used for synthetic fibre, jute, silk etc.
Tex systemor, Lea count
It is defined as the weight in grams of 1000m is called tex count.
Denier
The number or, count in the denier system is the weight in grams of 9000m.
Decitex
weight in grams of 10000 meter
4. Yarn Fault
4.1 Slubs
An abnormally thick place or lump in yarn showing less twist at that place.
EFFECT
More end breaks in the next process.
 Damaged fabric appearance.
 Shade variation in dyed fabrics.
CAUSES

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 Accumulation of fly and fluff on the machine parts.
 Poor carding.
 Defective ring frame drafting and bad piecing
 Improperly clothed top roller clearers.
RECTIFICATION
 Machine surfaces to be maintained clean.
 Proper functioning of pnemafil/roller clearers to be ensured.
 Broken teeth gear wheel to be avoided and proper meshing to be ensured.
 Better fiber individualisation at cards to be achieved.
 Optimum top roller pressure &back zone
 Setting at ring frame to be maintained.
4.2 Neps
Yarn containing rolled fibre mass, which can be clearly seen on black board at close
distance; measurable on Uster imperfection Indicator.
EFFECT
Damaged fabric appearance
 Shade variation in the dyed fabrics
 An abnormally thick place or lump in yarn showing less twist at that place is
called slubs
CAUSES
 Accumalation of fly and fluff on the machine parts

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 Poor carding.
 Defective ring frame drafting and bad piecing
 Improperly clothed top roller clearers.
RECTIFICATION
 Machine surfaces to be maintained clean.
 Proper functioning of pnemafil/roller clearers to be ensured.
 Broken teeth gear wheel to be avoided and proper meshing to be ensured.
 Better fiber individualisation at cards to be achieved.
4.3 Thick and Thin Plces
Measurable by Uster Imperfection Indicator and observable on appearance
EFFECT
Eccentric top and bottom rollers
 Insufficient pressure on top rollers
 Worn and old aprons and improper apron spacing
 Improper meshing of gear wheels
 Mixing of cottons varying widely in fiber lengths and use of immature cottons

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CAUSES
Eccentric top and bottom rollers
 Insufficient pressure on top rollers
 Worn and old aprons and improper apron spacing
 Improper meshing of gear wheels
 Mixing of cottons varying widely in fibre lengths and use of immature cottons
RECTIFICATION
Eccentric top and bottom rollers to be avoided
 Top arm pressure checking schedules to be Maintained strictly
 Wide variation in the properties of cottons used in the mixing to be avoided
 Better fiber individualisation at cards to be achieved.
 Correct spacers to be utilised
4.4 Soft Yarn
Yarn which is weak indicating lesser twist

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EFFECT:
More end breaks in subsequent processes
 Shade variation in dyed fabrics
CAUSES:
 Slack tapes dirty jockey pulleys
 Improper bobbin feed on the spls
 Less twist in the yarn
 Bad clearing at the travellar
RECTIFICATION:
Vibration of bobbins on the spindles to be avoided
 Proper yarn clearing to be ensured
 Periodic replacement of worn rings and travellars to be effected
4.5 Oil Stained Yarn
Yarn stained with oil
EFFECT
Damaged fabric appearance
 Occurrence of black spot in fabric

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CAUSES
Careless oil in the moving parts,over head pulleys etc
 Piecings made with oily or dirty fingers
 Careless material handlings
RECTIFICATION
Appropriate material handling procedures to be followed
 Oilers to trained in proper method of lubrication
 Clean containers to be utilised for material transportation
4.6 Bad Piecing
Unduly thick piecing in yarn caused by over End piecing
EFFECT
More end breaks in subsequent process
 Increase in hard waste
CAUSES
Wrong method of piecing and over end piecing
 Twisting the ends instead of knotting
RECTIFICATION
Tenters to be trained in proper methods of piecing

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 Separators to be provided
 Excessive end breaks in spinning to be avoided
4.7 Hairiness
Protrusion of fibre ends from the main yarn structure
EFFECT
More end breaks in winding
 Uneven fabric surface
 Beads formation in the fabric in the case of polyester/cotton blends
CAUSES
Use of cottons differing widely in the properties in the same mixing
Use of worn rings and lighter travellars
 Maintaining low relative humidity, closer roller settings and very high spindle
speeds
RECTIFICATION
Use of travellars of correct size and shape and rings in good condition to be ensured
 Periodic replacement of travellars and suitable
 Roller settings to be maintained

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 Optimum relative humidity to be maintained in the spinning room
 Wide variation in the properties of cottons used in the mixing to be avoided
4.8 Foreign Matters
Metallic parts, jute flannel and other similar foreign matters spun along with yarn
EFFECT
Breaks during winding
 Formation of holes and stains in cloth
 Damaged fabric appearance
CAUSES
Improper handling of travellers
 Improper preparation of mixings
RECTIFICATION
Removal of foreign matters(such as jute fibres,colour cloth bits) to be ensured during
preparation of mixing
 Installation of permanent magnets at proper
 Places in blow room lines to be ensured

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4.9 Spun In Fly
Fly or fluff either spun along with the yarn or loosely embedded on the yarn
EFFECT
More breaks in winding
CAUSES
Accumulation of fluff over machine parts
 Fanning by workers
 Failure of over head cleaners
 Malfunctioning of humidification plant
RECTIFICATION
Machinery surfaces to be kept clean by using roller pickers
 Fanning by workers to be avoided
 Performance of over head cleaners and humidification plants to be closely
monitored