If you are planning a new patio, walkway or driveway, follow these instructions and rely on the expert advice of Centenary Landscaping Supplies. Even beginners can lay pavers with professional results. Expect a good workout, but remember that the job can be worked on over a number of days. For more information, visit us: http://centenarylandscaping.com.au

1. By Centenary Landscaping Supplies
How to Lay Pavers

2. If you are planning a new
patio, walkway or
driveway, follow these
instructions and rely on
the expert advice of
Centenary Landscaping
Supplies. Even
beginners can lay pavers
with professional results.
Expect a good workout,
but remember that the
job can be worked on
over a number of days.

3. Preparation
It is important to plan the paving job and
assemble all the necessary tools and
supplies before putting the shovel in the
ground.

4. Layout and Design
Decide on the area to be
paved, the style of paver,
and what kind of design.
For example, you could
alternate two colours, or
install a herringbone
pattern. Over 150 different
styles of pavers are
available at Centenary
Landscaping Supplies, and
they showcase different
designs to help you decide.

5. Pavers and Material
Order the correct number of pavers. Calculate the
square metres of the area to be paved. Add 5% to
10%, depending on the number of cuts you will have to
make to fit difficult space and curves. Your supplier can
best advise you.
Also order enough Joint Filling Sand or Gap Sand. This
is used to fill the joints between the pavers. One bag
should be enough to cover 15-20 square metres.

6. Tools
 a screed board and two screed rails 40mm
x 25mm x 3m long
 piece of timber 100mm x 75mm x 500mm
 spirit level
 rubber mallet
 club hammer
 line level
 string line and pegs
 broom
 diamond blade brick saw
 plate vibrator
 wheel barrow
 shovel
 mattock
 rake
 wooden float
 edge restraints, either concrete or steel,
aluminium or plastic

7. Doing the Job
Once you have gathered all the necessary
tools and supplies, you are ready to start
work.

8. 1. Excavate
Dig out the site to about
180 mm to allow 40 mm
for the paver layer, 30 to
40 mm for the sand layer,
and 100 mm for the
compacted base. Maintain
a slope from the house for
water drainage, usually 15
to 20 mm per metre. Use
the level and screed board
to get the right slope.

9. 2. Install Base
The base layer is composed of
gravel aggregate and fines or
Road Base. Use the screed
board to get the basic level,
making sure to maintain the
slope. Hose down the area and
then use the plate compactor
around the entire area two or
three times to make sure this
base is well compacted and
hard. Add a shovel of the base
material here and there to true
up your level as some areas
may compact more than others.

10. 3. Add Sand
Place the screed rails parallel on the base
layer to provide a guide for the depth of the
sand layer. Again, use the level to be sure
that you are maintaining the right slope,
using sand to adjust rails as needed.
Use the wheelbarrow to drop sand between
the rails. Position the screed board
perpendicular to the rails to spread out the
sand evenly over the entire area. Fill areas
at the walls as needed, levelling those areas
out as you move down the rails.
Once the screed board is at the end of the
rails, remove the rails and fill in the rail
traces with sand. Use the wooden trowel to
smooth and pat the surfaces again.

11. 4. Lay the Pavers
Start laying pavers from one
corner, dropping them into place
so the sand bed is not disturbed.
If you have to step on the sand,
place a paver under your foot. Lay
a course of pavers along the two
far walls. Use the string line from
one end of each wall to the other
end, to make sure that this first
course is straight.
Continue to lay three or four
courses, and then check for
straightness again with the string
line. There are minor variations in
size in the pavers, so some slight
adjustments may have to be
made. Use the trowel to slightly
move individual pavers until the
line is straight.

12. 5. Cut Pavers
Pavers may have to be cut if
they are too large or need to fit
into irregular places. Place a
paver against the wall; pull it
back about 5 mm, and use a felt
pen to mark where the cut is
required. Irregular spaces may
require more than one cut, so
take your time and measure
accurately.
Mark all the pavers to be cut. Be
sure to lift pavers straight up so
the sand layer is not disturbed.
Define the line with a straight
edge and use the diamond blade
brick saw to make the cuts.
Then drop the pavers back
where they belong.

13. 6. Edge Restraints
Once all pavers are arranged,
add edge restraints to keep
them in place. Secure them
to the ground with spikes,
following the perimeter of the
design area.
An option is a concrete
restraint against the exposed
edge of the pavers. This is
called haunching. Use a
small wooden float to push
concrete about half-way up
the paver edge to act as a
wedge. This leaves room for
soil, mulch and grass to be
added later.

14. 7. Joint and Gap Sand
Sweep very fine kiln-dried
joint fill sand into the cracks
between the pavers to keep
them in place. Another
improved product known as
gap sand, has added silicon,
which expands and sets when
dampened with water. This
gives a firmer joint that helps
prevent weeds.
Place the bag of sand on the
pavers, rip it open and sweep
the sand into all exposed
cracks. One bag will cover
about 15-20 square metres.

15. 8. Compact
Compact the entire area
again, once only. For small
areas, place a timber on
the pavers and hit it firmly
a few times with a mallet to
vibrate sand to the bottom
of the pavers. For larger
areas, use the plate
vibrator on a lower setting
with carpet or rubber under
it to avoid breaking or
damaging pavers.

16. 9. Cleanup
Sweep off
remaining sand,
and hose down to
clean the pavers as
well as activate the
silicone sand if that
was used.

17. 10. Sealing
All pavers, whether concrete,
stone or clay should be sealed
after installation. Sealing pavers
helps maintain colour, surface
finish and prevents unwanted
staining or efflorescence build
up. Many products might be
“presealed”, this is not a
permanent finish, and is
designed only to aid in the laying
process and minimise any
damage occurring. Sealing is an
easy process in any paving job,
and is much like oiling a timber
deck. Follow the manufacturers
recommendations and seal your
pavers within 2-4 weeks of laying
to guarantee the best results.

18. Follow these steps to ensure a professional looking
paver job. Remember that Centenary Landscaping
Supplies are available at every step of the way to
give helpful and friendly advice and get you your
supplies when you want them and on time!
For more information, visit us:
http://centenarylandscaping.com.au