Mangalagiri sarees are a traditional handloom product from Andhra Pradesh, India. They have been produced for over 500 years in the town of Mangalgiri using pit looms. The production process involves several steps including dyeing and weaving cotton yarn. Mangalagiri sarees are known for their intricate tribal designs woven with zari along the borders and pallu. They come in bold colors and are a major source of income for the 5000 weavers in Mangalgiri. In recent years, the sarees and other materials like kurtas have grown in global demand, challenging weavers to give them a modern twist while maintaining traditions.

1. .
Present Scenario of the Mangalagiri Sarees and Fabrics
R.S. Balakumar
Associate Professor
Dept of Fashion Design & Arts
Hindustan University, Chennai, India
Email: rsbalakumar1953@gmail.com
Mangalgiri Sarees and Fabrics are created by execution handiwork weaving in Mangalgiri,
a town in Guntur district of the Indian state of Andhra Pradesh. The Mangalgiri fabric is
produced by weaving with the help of pit looms from combed yarn by warp and woof
interlacing. The fabric then undergoes the process of dyeing. The Nizam design is another
characteristic of the fabric is also produced in Mangalgiri by the famous and experienced
artisans and weavers.
Mangalagiri sarees and suit materials are very popular and standard handloom product
from the state of Andhra Pradesh. The name Mangalgiri is derived from the place
Mangalgiri located 12 kms away from Vijayawada. The town of Mangalgiri is not only
famous for its beautiful sarees but is also popular for being a pilgrimage terminus.
Fig: Mangalagiri sarees
The occupation of weaving is as old as 500 years as per some engravings found at this
region. There was a wandering period for the weavers during the rule of QutubShahi due

2. to proliferation in taxes. The production of the Mangalagiri sari includes different stages
which includes asfollows: -
Stages of production process of Mangalgiri sarees:
Raw materials
Pure cotton yarn, silver and gold zari's, synthetic and natural
dyes and some chemicals are to be used
Cotton purification
This process involves boiling of hank cotton to remove
certain impurities, soaked overnight, rinsed and made
appropriate for dyeing process
Dyeing
It involves bleaching technique for white saris and for
coloured ones, Vat dyes are also be used very often
Removal of excess
dye
Dyed or bleached yarn endures saturated in boiling water with
some techniques to cut out surplus dyeing
Drying
After the above process, the yarn is dried and also adds light
sensitive colours in shades
Pre-loom process:
Winding of hank
yarn into warp and
weft
Charka, shift bamboo and bobbin are used to form warp.
While, the weft is made with help of a pirn
Street sizing - the
warp extension
The warp extension, spraying of rice conjee (starch)confirms
appropriate weaving followed by drying
Weaving process
It involves Warp and Weft method of weaving and sometimes
replaced by Jacquard weaving. Usage of only pit looms for
weaving, designing and cutting per the goods demand
undertakes
Cutting & folding Woven cloth undergoes cutting per the goods demand
Inspection of sarees Inspection by the master weaver to rectify flaws
Marketing
The period of 1985 bought revolution with new market for
dress materials and as well as the saris
Mangalagiri saris are unique variety, woven from cotton and has the most characteristic
features such like zari on the border and no woven designs on the body is the speciality
features of the mangalagiri sarees.
This special saree has intricate tribal designs that are woven in cotton along with zari or
golden colored patterns that occur in small checks. The pallu (edge) or the saree borders of
both top and bottom sides, of this saree is ornamented with a striped design, which is a
typical tribal embellishment that is made out of golden embroidery. The Mangalagiri sarees
come in a host of bold colours that make it look very elegant and good-looking.

3. Mangalgiri cotton is created by the cotton yarn that is acquired from the mills. This cotton
yarn is then boiled in water and caustic soda for a couple of hours before it is suitable for
dyeing. If the yarn is to produce white coloured sarees, then it is bleached before weaving,
else for colouring chemical dyes are used. After dyeing, the yarn is then sun dehydrated
before it is all set for the weaving process.
Fig: Mangalgiri handloom cotton saree
This improvement facilitated the rulers to adopt a more favourable attitude with the
weavers and reduce the taxes. In short, the support is proof enough that the Mangalgiri
handloom tradition has been a part of the town for more than five centuries.
Mangalgiri is a small village that has a population of around eighty-five thousand to one
lakh people. Out of the total population, around 5000 of them are weavers of Mangalgiri

4. textiles. The exceptionality of Mangalgiri cotton is due to its sturdiness. The fabric is
woven only on pit loom, and there are no breaks on the weave towards the edges of the
fabric along with the sole fact that it is formed in Mangalgiri alone is the special features.
The Mangalgiri saree has no embellishments on itsmain body. It has a zari or golden thread
work embellished Nizam border and pallu. These geometrical and simple designs are
inspired by the tribal designs and also making its significance to attract the foreign tourists
visiting this place and eagar to purchase these mangalagiri sarees and textile materials.
Many other parts of the Indian people, especially women of all the age groups interested
to buy more number of Mangalagiri sarees for their own usage and also willing to give
their friends and relatives as the specialgift.
Present day development of Mangalagiri Saree:
At current, handloom weaving is the prime occupation of Mangalgiri town and around half
of the population depends on this cottage industry for their living. The beautifully woven
sarees and dress materials that are produced by Mangalgiri are what have placed this small
town on the world textile map.
There are a lot ofchallenges being made at giving a modern twist to the Mangalgiri textiles.
Apart from the attractive and bright saree creations, the Mangalagiri dress materials have
a global demand too in recent time. A proportion of the new generation like the teen-girls
enjoy wearing the cool cotton kurtas, dupattas, salwar-kameez,patiyala salwar and stoles
with the Mangalgiri weave which can be teamed up with western wear. Mangalagiri Saree.
This saree, highlighting ethnic designs, is very much in demand in the fashion market of
the present scenario.
Mangalagiri is a very popular handloom textile which has a lot of worldwide demand
owing to its simple-minded patterns, toughness of the cotton and colours and wear ability
to the customers wishes to buy more sarees and textile materials from the Mangalagiri
place. Due to foreigners visit in this place textile business have well developed.Many
international buyers are giving saree and textile material orders to Mangalagiri textile
weavers service centres and Foreign Exchange value is rapidly increased.
References:
1. The Saris - by Rtakapur Chishti.
2. Indian Costumes - by Anamika Patak
3. Costumes of India - by S.N.DHAR.
4. https://en.wikipedia.org
5. https://www.utsavpedia.com
6. https://www.utsavfashion.com
7. http://kaushicollection.blogspot.com