Aromatherapy guide

2. Effective Therapy and Good Health
Begins at the Source…
Thank you for choosing Simplers Botanicals. Simplers sources organic
essential oils direct from artisan distillers all over the world to ensure
they are genuine, species specific, expertly distilled and 100% pure.
We offer certified organic essential oils whenever an organic option
is available. We enjoy supporting organic farms in France, Germany,
Egypt, Nepal, Madagascar, Morocco, Indonesia, Guatemala, El
Salvador, Argentina, Croatia, Australia, Canada and the United States,
to name a few.
As an herbalist operated company, our passion is to provide the highest
therapeutic grade essential oils and extracts available. We offer this
complimentary guide to help you identify the value of therapeutic grade
essential oils and how best to incorporate them into your daily life.
Table of Contents
Therapeutic Grade Aromatherapy.................................................... 2
How are Essential Oils Made?......................................................... 3
Guideline to Dosages & Dilutions.................................................... 4
Practical Applications.................................................................... 5
Therapeutic Hydrosols................................................................... 6
Guide to Essential Oils.................................................................. 8
Symptom Reference Guide............................................................ 18
Natural Perfume Blending Basics.................................................... 21
Glossary of Terms....................................................................... 22
Suggested Reading List.................................................................23

3. Therapeutic Grade Aromatherapy
Aromatherapy is the art and science of using essential oils to enhance health and well-being.
To be truly effective, essential oils must be absolutely pure, genuine, and authentic. These
terms mean the following: 1) the oil does not contain synthetic fragrances to enhance the
scent, or adulterants to extend the volume. 2) the oil does not contain less expensive
or similar oils as substitutes (such as using rose geranium instead of real rose oil). 3) the
oil has not been reconstructed or altered in a laboratory – a process not uncommon in
the industry. For example, a reconstructed “rosemary” essential oil might actually be
made of constituents sourced from less expensive eucalyptus and orange oils. Synthetic,
adulterated and reconstructed oils, although less expensive, will not give you the effects
you desire and may even have adverse effects. To ensure oil quality and purity, choose
only oils that are certified organic or ethically wildcrafted, properly distilled or extracted,
originating from a reliable source, and priced according to the Aromatherapy market. It is
also essential that the oils are species specific, listing the botanical name after the common
name, and indicate the variety and chemotype when applicable.
Pure essential oils are highly concentrated, representing precious plant resources, and
should not be used indiscriminately or, in many cases, undiluted on the skin. We recom-
mend making a 2-5% dilution, which is appropriate for skin care or specific effects. Simplers
Botanicals cannot recommend internal use of essential oils. While our essential oils are
of the highest therapeutic grade, we ask that you never use essential oils internally unless a
qualified healthcare practitioner has advised you to do so and has recommended a specific plant
genus, species, and specific dosage amount. Please note that some essential oils are toxic if
taken internally.
You may notice that pure, genuine, and authentic essential oils, like Simplers, will vary
slightly in their scent, viscosity, and color from batch to batch. This is a sign of true quality
and should be considered naturally comparable to the way your favorite fruit changes from
season to season.
How Do Essential Oils Affect The Body?
The molecules in essential oils are very small and volatile, meaning they can quickly change
into a vapor. This makes them easily and readily absorbed through the mucous membranes
of our respiratory system when we inhale (smell) them. When inhaled, or when diluted
properly and applied to the skin, they travel quickly through our capillaries and into the
circulatory system which carries them around the body. Inhalation also causes the nervous
system to transmit signals to the limbic system of the brain—the same area of the brain
that houses emotion and memory. The brain responds by initiating various physiological
functions, such as a release of hormones, relief from pain, or a positive boost in mood.
3

4. How Are Essential Oils Made?
Essential Oil distilleries have classically used steam distillation to produce essential oils.
During distillation, steam is directed through the properly collected and prepared plant
material. The hot steam captures the volatile essential oil and is then carried into a cool-
ing unit where it condenses. This condensed steam, called distillate, contains both the
essential oil of the plant, and a water portion called hydrosol. The two naturally separate.
Like fine wines, the end result is dependent upon several factors which include growing
methods (preferably organically grown, bio-dynamically grown, or ethically wildcrafted),
geography, climate, soil conditions, and most importantly, the technique and expertise of
the distiller. The amount of essential oil that each distillation yields is dependent upon the
plant. Price is usually a reliable indicator of how much oil each crop yields. For example,
it takes approximately 40 rose buds to produce a single drop of rose otto essential oil. 1
ml (approximately 30 drops), is sold for about $35 on the retail market. Lavender, on the
other hand, yields approximately 4 liters of oil per ton of plant. A 5 ml (1/6 of an ounce)
bottle of true lavender is found for about $10-$15.
A relatively new method of extraction that is being employed is called carbon dioxide
extraction, or CO2. This process utilizes the “supercritical” state of CO2, when it acts both
as a gas and a liquid. The required equipment used for this method is quite expensive but
yields a higher volume of extract, making more expensive oils such as frankincense, myrrh
and vanilla more widely available.
Solvent extraction is another method used to extract essential oils from plants. These oils
are called absolutes and should be used for perfumery and blending only. Even though the
solvents used are removed after extraction, absolutes are not considered by practitioners
to be therapeutic grade. Common absolutes are jasmine, mimosa, and rose absolute.
Citrus essential oils are cold-pressed from the fresh peel, making it imperative to choose
only organic citrus oils for therapeutic purposes. Citrus oils should be used within 12-18
months and can be kept refrigerated if desired.
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5. Simplers Suggested Guideline
To Dosages & Dilutions Of Essential Oils
Application # Of Drops Amount of Carrier
Massage Oil/Lotion 50-60 4 ounces oil
Ointment 50-60 2 ounces oil
Topical 50-60 1 ounce oil
Compress 5 8 ounces water
Bath 10-15 Tub of water
Foot Bath 8-10 Bowl of water
Facial Sauna 2-5 Bowl of water
Facial Mask 2-3 1 tsp. Clay w/honey or
4 drops veg. oil for dry skin
Facial Oil 6-8 1/3 ounce oil
Cleanser 25 4 ounces oil
Hair Oil 25 1 ounce oil
Douche 5 1 liter water
Capsules 1-3 (25-75mg) 3 drops in Veg. Oil
Suppositories 4 1 gram cocoa butter
Body Mist 10-20 4 ounces water
Room Spray 20-30 4 ounces water
1ml = 25-30 drops 15ml = 1/2 ounce 60ml = 2 ounce
5ml = 1/6 ounce 30ml = 1 ounce 25mg = 1 drop
This booklet contains information on the use and specific properties of Simplers Botanicals
essential oils. We cannot assure you will get similar results with essential oils other than
those provided by Simplers Botanicals due to great variation in quality, authenticity and
purity of essential oils being sold on the market by other companies. This information is for
education purposes only and is not intended to diagnose, treat or cure any disease. Please
consult a health care professional if you have any serious medical conditions.
5

6. Practical Applications Of Essential Oils
With essential oils, one drop goes a long way. These volatile oils easily penetrate the skin
and some may cause skin irritation or sensitivity if not properly diluted or if used in high
concentrations. Some people have sensitivity reactions to essential oils. Test yourself for
sensitivity by applying your dilution to a small skin area before using on larger areas.
The descriptions of essential oils on the following pages reflect just a few of many possible
applications. To learn more, take classes or collect a small library of aromatherapy books.
You’ll find a suggested reading list of books by various authors on page 23.
APPLICATIONS BELOW ARE LISTED AFTER EACH OIL THROUGHOUT THE BOOK.
Example: Anise Seed has BCM indicating use in Bath, Compress & Massage
B = Bath
C = Compress
D = Diffuser or Nebulizer
I = Inhalation
M = Massage
P = Perfume
S = Skin Care
(B) Bath. Add a total of 10 to 15 drops of essential oil to an already full bath. Agitate the
water to thoroughly disperse the oils before getting in. Foot & hand baths: Put 8 to 10 drops
of essential oil into a bowl of warm water. Soak for 10 to 15 minutes.
(C) Compress. Add 8 to 10 drops of essential oil to 2 cups hot or cold water and agitate
to disperse oils. Briefly soak cotton cloth, wring and place on skin. Repeat every 15 minutes
for up to one hour.
(D) Diffuser or Nebulizer. The most effective tool for inhalations, diffusers create a
continuous fine mist of essential oils. Turn on diffuser for 5 to 15 minute intervals. Excellent
air disinfectant.
(I) Inhalation. Place 1 to 3 drops of essential oil on a cloth to inhale. Or put 3 to 8 drops of
essential oil into a bowl of hot water, cover head and bowl with a towel, and inhale deeply
for 2 to 5 minutes. Do not use during asthma attacks.
(M) Massage. For a standard 2% dilution, add a total of 12 to 15 drops of essential oil to
every 1 ounce of vegetable oil (almond, sunflower, etc.).
(P) Perfume. Absolutes, resins and more viscous oils are ideal for creating personal fra-
grances, artistically and imaginatively. (See blending basics on page 21).
(S) Skin Care. Follow dilution guidelines on page 4.
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7. Therapeutic Aromatic Hydrosols
True floral waters, called hydrosols, are created during the steam distillation of aromatic
plants. They are rich in water-soluble elements of plant medicine that are not found in the
essential oil. Most aromatic sprays on the market are not pure hydrosols, but rather es-
sential oils added to water with an emulsifier. These are chemically different than hydrosols
and are not as gentle.
Hydrosols are moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, mildly antiseptic, and are a wonderfully
fragrant addition to skin care. The gentleness and benevolent nature of hydrosols offer
a myriad of treatment possibilities when essential oils might be too strong. Hydrosols are
a safe and gentle way for people with sensitive skin, children, elders, chronically ill, and
highly allergic individuals to enjoy the benefits of aromatherapy.
Geranium Hydrosol
Skin Types: dry, combination, sensitive, acne-prone, rosacea.
Properties: cooling, anti-inflammatory, humectant, balancing to skin, emotions, and
endocrine system.
Indications: PMS, menopause, hot flashes, sunburn, broken capillaries, eczema, psoriasis,
rashes, bites and stings, healing wounds, emotional upsets.
Applications: facial toner, spray on face and body during hot flashes, add to shampoo or
conditioner to nourish hair and scalp and balance oil production.
Lavender Hydrosol
Skin Types: all types, including damaged, fragile, and sensitive.
Properties: cooling, regenerative, anti-inflammatory, wound healing.
Indications: sunburn, eczema, psoriasis, sensitivities, rashes, itchy skin, cuts, scrapes, bites
and stings, wounds, infected skin, headaches, stress and tension, sunstroke, PMS, diaper
rash, tantrums.
Applications: apply in a plane or other dry environments, add to a cold or hot compress
for headache or PMS symptoms, use after shaving or hair removal, add 1/2 tsp to baby’s
bathwater to calm and soothe, spray to clear anger and tension in the home, office, or car.
Neroli Hydrosol
Skin Types: oily, sensitive, acne-prone skin; may be too astringent for dry skin.
Properties: anti-oxidant, astringent, anti-bacterial, anti-fungal, anti-stress and depression,
calming, aids digestion, mildly sedative.
Indications: acne, broken capillaries, anxiety, shock, ADD, during detox programs.
Applications: use as a facial toner for oily skin and acne, apply to overly-oily scalp, spray
on yeast infections and athletes foot, add to a cold or hot compress or spray on abdomen
for digestive upsets, spray into face and chest during states of high anxiety (combine with
Simplers Neroli Perfume for best results).
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8. Rose Hydrosol
Skin Types: dry, normal, sensitive, damaged, mature.
Properties: cooling, regenerative, mildly astringent and antiseptic, humectant, balancing
to emotions and endocrine system.
Indications: mature skin, wrinkles, PMS, menopause, mood swings, emotional upsets,
opening the heart, self-motivation.
Applications: apply just before facial oil or moisturizer, add to bathwater to relax and
revive, use when emotional support is needed. A great skin regenerative and rejuvenator.
Add to a cold compress and apply over tired eyes.
Add hydrosols to…
Aloe vera gel for a soothing, lightly scented and healing lotion.
Honey for a decadent and moisturizing facial.
Clay for an aromatic facial mask or skin pack.
Bathwater for babies (1/4 – 1/2 tsp per bath)
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9. Pure Plant Essential Oils
ANGELICA ROOT Angelica archangelica  
Spicy, earthy-herbal fragrance with warming and stimulating qualities. Revitalizing,
digestive stimulant, carminative, antispasmodic. Possibly photosensitizing. Do not use in
diabetes. BCDIM
AMMI VISNAGA (Khella seed)  
Commonly used for asthma relief. Seek a qualified health practitioner for use. CIM
ANISE SEED Pimpinella anisum  
Spicy and sweet, warming and stimulating. Used as a flavoring agent (traditionally in biscotti
recipes) and to stimulate digestion. Use it as an antispasmodic for menstrual cramps.
Antiseptic, carminative, expectorant, strong antispasmodic. BCM
BALSAM PERU Myroxylon balsamum variety pereiae
Rich, earthy, vanilla-like scent. Warming, comforting, and grounding; soothes nervous
tension and stress. Antirheumatic, circulatory stimulant, respiratory antiseptic, expecto-
rant, emollient for dry, chapped skin. Blends well with florals, petitgrain, rose, patchouli.
BCIMSP
BASIL, SWEET Ocimum basilicum 
Fresh, sweet, ‘green’ scent. Uplifting, clarifying and energizing for stress due to mental
overwork, anxiety, fatigue. Nervine, antispasmodic, antirheumatic, digestive stimulant.
Blends well with lavender, bergamot, lime, geranium, oakmoss, hyssop, peppermint.
BCDM
BAY LAUREL Laurus nobilis  
This strong spicy scent is a classic ingredient in men’s fragrance blends. Used as a scalp rub,
it refreshes and stimulates hair follicles. Stimulant, antiseptic, antineuralgic, lymph tonic.
Blends well with pine, cypress, juniper, lavender, citrus and spice oils. BCDIM
BENZOIN Styrax benzoin
Sweet, vanilla-like aroma with warming and comforting properties. Excellent emollient for
dry or cracked skin. Soothing as an inhalation for anxiety, coughs, congestion and laryngitis.
Fixative and preservative for perfume blends. Diluted for pourability in 50% ho leaf oil
(Cinnamomum camphora), a very mild general tonic similar to rosewood. BIMSP
BERGAMOT Citrus bergamia   !
Fruity-floral citrus with refreshing, uplifting, and regulating properties. Good general anti-
septic, antifungal, relaxant; recommended for oily skin, acne, depression. If not specified
bergapten-free, may cause photosensitivity. BCDMP
BLUE CYPRESS Callitris intratropica 
Not actually a cypress, this oil is used as an al-
ternative to sandalwood. A thick, viscous oil that  Avoid in pregnancy or epilepsy
can be used as a base oil to “fix” other essential  Use in moderation and highly diluted;
may be a potential skin irritant
oils in a blend. Anti-inflammatory, antiviral. Used
for dry skin or warts. BSM ! May be photosensitizing
9

10. CALENDULA CO2 Calendula officinalis
Warm herbal aroma. This extract is known for its exceptional anti-inflammatory and skin-heal-
ing properties. Approximately 45% more concentrated than the herbal infused oil. Astringent,
vulnerary, antiseptic. Diluted for pourability in 75% organic jojoba oil. MS
CARDAMOM Elettaria cardamomum
Sweet, spicy scent with woody-citrus undertones. Warming and stimulating. An exotic ad-
dition to perfumes for men or women and (in moderation) as a flavoring. Antispasmodic,
expectorant, carminative. Helps to expel gas through the upper G.I. tract. Blends well with
rose, orange, cedarwood, ylang, neroli. BCDMP
CARROT SEED Daucus carota   !
Warm, earthy-woody aroma. Specific as a tonic for revitalizing and regenerating mature or
damaged skin; may be helpful for hypertension and hyperpigmentation. Considered a general
stimulant and liver tonic. CMS
CEDAR, ATLAS Cedrus atlantica 
True Atlas cedar has a ‘ripe’, woody-fruity fragrance with deeply soothing and grounding
effects. Lymph and circulatory tonic, vulnerary; used in cellulite formulas due to its ability
to help release excess water and aid cellular fat metabolism. Blends well with wood oils,
bergamot, cypress, jasmine, juniper, neroli, ylang. BCM
CEDARWOOD Juniperus virginiana
Smooth, woody, stimulating evergreen fragrance. Circulatory decongestant, helpful for varicose
veins, hemorrhoids. Blends well with wood oils, bergamot, cypress, jasmine, juniper, neroli, ylang,
rosemary. BCM
CHAMOMILE, GERMAN Matricaria recutita
A thick, velvety blue floral oil with an intense, pungent, warm odor. Soothing for red, inflamed,
sensitive skin. High in alpha bisabolol and chamazulene, it is most useful in the treatment of al-
lergies, eczema, psoriasis and itchy, dry skin problems. Also used for inflamed joints, muscular
pain and for boils or abscesses in a hot compress. BCMS
CHAMOMILE, MOROCCAN BLUE Tanacetum annuum
Having the most chamazulene of all the blue oils, Moroccan blue chamomile has an intensely
sweet scent and deep blue color. Valued for its natural antihistamine effect when dealing with
hayfever, asthma and hives. Anti-inflammatory, antiallergic, non-specific red rashes and mild
antiseptic. Use for eczema and dry skin. BCIMSP
CHAMOMILE, ROMAN Chamaemelum nobile
Sweet, apple-like fragrance. Relaxant, antispasmodic, and antianxiety properties. Used in
treatment of PMS. As an inhalation, may help relieve emotional anxiety and tension associated
with asthma, hayfever and other allergies. Also used for hyperactivity and to calm restless
children. BCDIMS
CINNAMON BARK Cinnamomum verum   !
One of the most anti-infectious oils. Irritating to the skin and is best used either highly diluted
or in diffuser blends. Deeper and sweeter scent than the leaf oil. CDMP
10

11. CINNAMON LEAF Cinnamomum verum   !
Sharp, spicy scent with warming and stimulating properties. Exotic fragrance component,
broadly antiseptic; muscle warmer. Blends well with ylang, orange, mandarin, balsams. CDMP
CISTUS Cistus ladaniferus  
Also known as labdanum or rockrose. Spicy, musky, somewhat woody scent with comforting,
centering effects. Often used as a fixative in men’s fragrances. Added to a massage oil, cistus
is known to increase lymph drainage. Firms mature skin; astringent for oily, acne skin; styptic.
Blends well with citrus, pine, lavender. BMSP
CITRONELLA Cymbopogon winterianus  
Tart, lemony aroma classically used as an insect deterrent. Antiseptic, antispasmodic. Specific
for oily skin, excessive perspiration, and as a room deodorizer. May be a skin irritant in strong
dilutions. DM
CLARY SAGE Salvia sclarea 
Unusual nutty-musky, herbaceous oil with calming, uplifting, euphoric effects. Antidepressant,
antispasmodic, aphrodisiac, astringent. Balancing for dry, oily or inflamed skin; specific for
PMS, cramps, menopausal symptoms and stress. BCDIMS
CLOVE BUD Syzygium aromaticum  
Spicy and warming. Traditionally used in tiny doses as a local anesthetic for toothache. Broadly
antiseptic and stimulating; counters fatigue. Use in less than 1% dilution. Also used as a remedy
for warts. CMS
COCOA Theobroma cacao
Chocolate lovers will adore this natural extract. Dark brown, rich, bitter, and liqueur-like.
Smelling the oil is said to reduce the craving for sweets. Exotic accessory base note for per-
fumers. Diluted for pourability in 70% organic grain alcohol. IMP
CORIANDER SEED Coriandrum sativum 
Sweet, herbal, uplifting fragrance. Soothing antiseptic with antiviral and carminative proper-
ties. Blends well with clary sage, bergamot, neroli, jasmine, ginger, needle and spice oils.
Used as a replacement for endangered rosewood. BCDIMS
CYPRESS Cupressus sempervirens  
Broad, refreshing scent of the evergreen family. Balancing, warming and energizing, it is an
antiseptic, astringent, and circulatory stimulant. Used for hemorrhoids, varicose veins, cellulite,
and sore throat. CM
EUCALYPTUS E. citriodora   !
Pleasant lemon scented variety of eucalyptus used as a general anti- inflammatory, antispasmodic
and for relief of pain due to arthritis, muscle cramps, sprains, sore tendons and carpal tunnel
injuries. A must for massage therapists. BCDIMS
EUCALYPTUS E. dives   Avoid in pregnancy or epilepsy
Mint scented variety of eucalyptus used for  Use in moderation and highly diluted;
may be a potential skin irritant
oily, congested skin and respiratory congestion.
BCDIMS ! May be photosensitizing
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12. EUCALYPTUS E. globulus 
Penetrating, camphorous odor. Stimulating, balancing, and cooling, it is used in inhalations
for deep bronchial infection or in massage oil for muscular aches, sluggish circulation, and
arthritic complaints. Antiseptic, vulnerary. BCDIM
EUCALYPTUS E. polybractea 
Less camphorous odor than the globulus variety with similar properties; expectorant. BCDIM
EUCALYPTUS E. radiata
Having the gentlest aroma of all eucalyptus species it offers a surprisingly powerful antiviral
capacity. Perfectly suited for daily use while body brushing, in the sauna or on the chest. Child-
safe, it keeps microbes at bay, fortifies resistance and general immunity. BCDIMS
EUCALYPTUS E. smithii
Another child-safe and mild species. Stimulating, it helps boost immunity and eases muscle
pain. BCDIMS
EVERLASTING (see Helichrysum)
FENNEL, SWEET Foeniculum vulgare 
Warm, spicy, sweet scent somewhat similar to anise. Stimulating and cleansing, with antispas-
modic and carminative properties. Estrogen-similar may help regulate menses and promote
lactation in nursing mothers. CDM
FIR, BALSAM Abies balsamea  
Fresh, green needle aroma. Stimulating, respiratory antiseptic, antispasmodic and sinus
decongestant. BCDIM
FRANKINCENSE CO2 Boswellia carterii
Rich, sweet, complex fragrance traditionally used for ceremonial incense and perfumery.
A balm for mature and dry skin, calms anxiety and balances mood swings. Blends well with
geranium, neroli, pine, spruce, vetiver, petitgrain, myrrh, bergamot, cinnamon. BDMSP
GALBANUM CO2 Ferula gummosa
Excellent for skin care. Beneficial for mature or wrinkled skin, acne, abscesses, cuts and ef-
fective in healing scar tissue. The ancient Egyptians used galbanum as an ingredient in the
embalming process and wound healing. Used to relieve poor circulation and muscular aches
and pains. Also used for respiratory ailments. BCIMS
GERANIUM, ROSE Pelargonium x asperum 
Earthy, flowery, rose-like scent with uplifting and balancing properties. Excellent for all skin
types, especially oily and acne-prone. Stress, anxiety and fatigue, PMS, water retention,
poor circulation. Antiviral and antifungal. Blends well with rose, lavender, neroli, patchouli.
BCDIMSP
GINGER CO2 Zingiber officinale  
Sharp, spicy scent. Warming and strengthening for fatigue, digestive upset, and muscular
aches and pains. Aphrodisiac, antispasmodic, carminative. Blends well with frankincense,
cedarwood, rose, neroli, patchouli. BCM
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13. GRAPEFRUIT Citrus x paradisii   !
Light, sweet, refreshing citrus with stimulating and uplifting properties. Specific as a tonic
for oily or congested skin, acne, cellulite, depression, and fatigue. Blends well with palma-
rosa, bergamot, cypress, geranium, lavender, other citruses. CDM
HELICHRYSUM Helichrysum italicum 
Also known as everlasting or immortelle. Distinctive warm, herbal aroma with pungent
undertones. Used for sensitive, inflamed, irritated skin, wounds, bruises and sprains. Skin
cell regenerative, strong anti-inflammatory, antifungal, best vulnerary and antirheumatic.
Blends well with lavender, rosemary, eucalyptus citriodora, yarrow, chamomiles. BCMS
HYSSOP Hyssopus officinalis variety decumbens 
Warm, spicy odor reminiscent of lavender with sweet, camphorous overtones. Calming and
refreshing. Herb traditionally used for respiratory infections but also helpful for anxiety and
general fatigue. Blends well with citrus, lavender, clary sage, rosemary, geranium, myrtle,
bay. CDIM
IMMORTELLE (see Helichrysum)
INULA Inula graveolens 
Emerald green classic for deep cleansing of bronchial tissue. Antiseptic, ant-inflammatory
and antispasmodic specific for the lungs. Use this somewhat rare oil in moderation. DIM
JASMINE ABSOLUTE Jasminum officinale or J. grandiflorum
Intense, heady floral with uplifting, sensory stimulating effects. Sweeter Sambac variety
is an exotic favorite. Concentrated absolutes are best for perfumery. Aphrodisiac, antide-
pressant, sedative. Blends well with most floral, wood and citrus oils. BMP
JUNIPER BERRY Juniperus communis  
Refreshing, woody-sweet fragrance. Cleansing tonic for oily skin and acne, uplifting and
stimulating in stress and fatigue. Avoid if you have a history of kidney problems. Blends well
with oakmoss, balsams, lavender, citrus, needle oils. BCM
LABDANUM (see Cistus)
LAVENDER Lavandula angustifolia
A gentle oil with a soft, floral herbal scent. Known for its calming, relaxing and soothing
effects, lavender is said to balance the central nervous system. Considered the most uni-
versally useful oil, it is excellent for all skin types. A must for every first aid kit, it can be used
for burns, sunburns, stings, muscular aches, cuts, blemishes, bruises, headaches, insect
bites, colds, flu, stress & menstrual cramps. Antiseptic, antispasmodic, nervine and seda-
tive. Promotes deep restful sleep. May be applied neat (undiluted) to the skin. Lavender is
used in France as a base or carrier oil for other essential oils to be diluted into. BCDIMSP
LAVENDER, SPIKE Lavandula latifolia 
More camphorous fragrance and not as mild
as true lavender with stronger anti-infectious  Avoid in pregnancy or epilepsy
properties. Specific for acne, oily skin and burns.  Use in moderation and highly diluted;
may be a potential skin irritant
Used in massage on the neck and shoulders for
! May be photosensitizing
tension headaches. BCDIMS
13

14. LEMON Citrus x limon   !
Light, clean, familiar citrus scent. Refreshing, uplifting, mental stimulant; cleansing and
astringent treatment for oily skin, strengthens capillaries and may help correct varicose
veins. BCDIM
LEMONGRASS Cymbopogon citratus   !
Pungent, lemony scent with an earthy undertone. Uplifting, astringent, antibacterial, an-
tiviral. Stimulating hair treatment, good room deodorizer and insect deterrent. May cause
skin irritations in high concentrations. BCDIMS
LEMON VERBENA Lippia citriodora   !
Used to relieve anxiety, insomnia and nervous tension as well as cramps, indigestion and
liver congestion. True, unadulterated lemon verbena is a rare find. CDIMP
LIME, SWEET Citrus x aurantifolia   !
Bittersweet citrus, interesting fragrance addition, sedative. Relieves stress and anxiety and
aids digestion. CDIMP
Linden Blossom CO2 Tilia cordata
Sweet, airy, honey-like fragrance that soothes anxiety and loneliness. Sedative that eases cold
and flu symptoms. Used in facial blends to tone capillaries and improve the complexion. A beau-
tiful floral top note for perfumery that blends well with citrus, floral and wood oils. BCDIMPS
MANDARIN Citrus reticulata variety mandarin  !
A light, orange-like oil with a sweet, almost floral fragrance. Calming and soothing for
children. Use as a sedative, relaxing massage and for digestive spasms. Also used to treat
asthma. BCDIMP
MARJORAM, SWEET Origanum majorana 
Tranquilizing, cool-woody, herbal aroma addresses digestive, cardiovascular and nervous
system stresses; respiratory disinfectant. Use in massage for headache and muscle pain,
menstrual cramps, and as an anaphrodisiac. BCDIM
MELISSA Melissa officinalis  
Commonly known as Lemon Balm. Complex, tart lemon aroma with soothing, uplifting
properties. Calming in times of emotional shock and grief; also sedative, antidepressant,
strong antiviral, (commonly used for herpes) heart tonic. Blends well with floral and citrus
oils, lavender, geranium, rose. BCDIMP
MIMOSA ABSOLUTE Acacia decurrens variety dealbata
Used in perfumery, mimosa has a sweet, heady strong floral scent that must be experi-
enced. Use a tiny amount in warm water as an exotic facial wash. Diluted for pourability in
50% organic jojoba oil. MP
MUGWORT Artemisia herba alba  
Also known as armoise. Pungent, potent sage-like aroma. May be used for respiratory infec-
tion and to break up mucous; antiviral, vulnerary, skin cell regenerative. Light-headedness
may result from excessive inhalation. Use in moderation for external use only. Contains the
toxic ketone thujone. BCMS
14

15. MYRRH CO2 Commiphora myrrha 
A thick, resinous oil with a rich, heavy aroma. Mature skin, dry scalp; an emollient for
chapped skin and open wounds. Anti-inflammatory, astringent, gentle expectorant. Blends
well with frankincense, juniper, mandarin, geranium, mints, spices, lavender. BCDIMSP
MYRTLE, GREEN Myrtus communis 
Fresh, camphorous scent somewhat like eucalyptus. Gentle, antiseptic, relaxing expectorant,
hypotensive. Oily skin, acne, open pores. Blends well with lavender, clary, ginger. BCDIMS
NEROLI Citrus aurantium
True orange blossom is a rich yet delicate warm floral with deeply soothing effects.
Tonifying for most skin types, but especially mature skin lacking vitality and suppleness.
Specific for depression, anxiety, insomnia, PMS. Aphrodisiac, sedative; especially nice
during pregnancy. Blends well with many oils, including chamomiles, jasmine, ylang, rose,
geranium, woods and citrus. BCDIMSP
NIAOULI (MQV) Melaleuca quinquinerva viridiflora
Sister to tea tree and cajeput with a ‘stinky’ medicinal odor. Used similarly for broad
antiseptic, antiviral, antifungal and antiparasitic actions. Helpful for calming skin or respira-
tory allergies; Known to protect skin from burns due to radiation therapy. Combines with
eucalyptus, rosemary, needle oils. BCDIMP
NUTMEG CO2 Myristica fragrans  
Warm, spicy and sensual. Stimulant, antirheumatic, muscular tonic. Nice in exotic perfumes
and culinary sweets. BCDIMP
OAKMOSS ABSOLUTE Evernia prunastri
Deep, tenacious ‘green’ scent used in perfumery for its fixative properties. MP
ORANGE, SWEET Citrus sinensis   !
Sweet citrus with calming, sedative effects. Oily skin, water retention, eases digestion,
stress and anxiety. BCDIMS
OREGANO Origanum vulgare  
Spicy-herbaceous odor reminiscent of the warm Mediterranean sun. Strongly antiseptic,
anti-infectious, stimulating, strengthening. Skin irritant; best used highly diluted. DI
PALMAROSA Cymbopogon martinii
Sweet, soothing, rosy-floral fragrance. Balancing and regenerative for dry, mature, cracked
or chapped skin. Antiviral, broadly antiseptic, antifungal. Blends well with geranium, cedar-
wood, petitgrain, florals. BCDIMS
PATCHOULI Pogostemon cablin
A dark, viscous oil with a distinctive, earthy-sweet fragrance. Warming and calming; specific
for mature skin, oily skin and hair, acne, cracked
and chapped skin. Aphrodisiac, antidepressant,  Avoid in pregnancy or epilepsy
antifungal, anti-inflammatory. Blends well with  Use in moderation and highly diluted;
jasmine, neroli, rose, wood oils. BCDIMSP may be a potential skin irritant
! May be photosensitizing
15

16. PEPPER, BLACK Piper nigrum  
Fresh, warm, spicy scent with stimulant qualities. Makes an interesting addition (in small
quantities) to perfume blends. Use in massage blend for constipation. Aphrodisiac, carmi-
native. Blends well with frankincense, marjoram, lavender, other florals and spices. CDMP
PEPPERMINT Mentha x piperita 
Strong, minty aroma with cooling, refreshing, and stimulating effects. Used for poor
memory, depression, confusion, stomach upsets, fever. Antiseptic, carminative, deconges-
tant, analgesic. Blends well with eucalyptus, lemon, lavender, rosemary, mints. CDIMS
PETITGRAIN Citrus aurantium
(Orange leaf, twig and pollen-laden blossom). Fresh citrus-floral scent with penetrating
spicy green undertones. Clarifying and uplifting in depression, mental fatigue, and anxiety.
Nervine, antispasmodic. Blends well with many oils and is a favorite of perfumers. BCDIMP
PINE, SEA Pinus pinaster 
Sweet forest needles, surprisingly lovely in floral blends. Dispels depression, opens respira-
tory passages, encourages deep, oxygenating breaths. BCDIMP
PINE, WILD SCOTCH Pinus sylvestris 
Penetrating, stimulating evergreen scent. Potent tonic for adrenal fatigue, muscle and joint
pain, respiratory weakness. BCDIM
RAVINTSARA Cinnamomum camphora 
Camphorous, pungent odor similar to tea tree. The correct Latin name has prompted con-
troversy over the years. Originating in Madagascar, this oil is used in France as an effective
antiviral for flu, hepatitis, herpes, shingles and mononucleosis. Also used for insomnia and
as an expectorant. BCDIM
ROCKROSE (see Cistus)
ROSE ABSOLUTE Rosa damascena
Deep, sweet floral with an aroma more true to the flower. Uplifting in times of emotional
stress, grief, sadness, and depression. Aphrodisiac, nervine. MP
ROSE OTTO Rosa damascena
Very complex, sharp floral fragrance (forty rose buds are needed to produce one drop).
Harmonizing for all skin types, but specific as a cell regenerator and moisturizer for mature
and dry skin. Tonic, soothing, cooling, and an uplifting aphrodisiac. Good choice for babies.
High in natural rose waxes that cause the oil to solidify at room temperature. Hold in pocket or
hands for a few minutes to help liquefy the oil. Rose water, or hydrosol, is also produced dur-
ing the steam distillation of rose otto (try Simplers Therapeutic Rose Hydrosol). BCDIMSP
ROSEMARY Rosmarinus officinalis cineole 
Fresh, herbaceous odor disinfects respiratory and sinus passages, moves sluggish circula-
tion; best added for its clearing, energizing effects to inhalations and massage blends.
Combines with eucalyptuses, needle and citrus oils, myrtle, ravintsara, mints. BCDIMS
16

17. ROSEMARY Rosmarinus officinalis verbenon 
Crisp, lemon rosemary is surprisingly sedative unlike camphor and cineol chemotypes. Skin
regenerative, superb wound healer and mucolytic virtually unequalled in other essential
oils. Antiseptic, vulnerary; use in moderation for inhalations. CDIMS
SAGE Salvia officinalis 
Pungent, warm herbal scent. Strong respiratory antiseptic, air purifier, mucolytic, vulner-
ary; provides muscular tone, slows excessive perspiration, nice in foot baths and oily hair
preparations. CDIMS
SANDALWOOD, AUSTRALIAN Santalum spicatum
Sustainably grown and harvested. This species is used similarly to Indian Sandalwood.
Warm, woody and musky base scent with a light, spicy top note. A soothing antiseptic with
anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties. Helpful for dry, red and flaky skin condi-
tions. Use for tension and anxiety or as an aphrodisiac. Blends well with most floral, wood
and citrus oils. BCDIMSP
SANDALWOOD, INDIAN Santalum album
(Endangered, use blue cypress or Australian sandalwood as a replacement.)
SPEARMINT Mentha spicata
Sweet, minty scent; somewhat milder than peppermint. Use in morning baths to refresh
muscles and tingle the senses. Decongestant, stimulant, antidepressant, tonic. BCDIM
SPIKENARD Nardostachys jatamansi
Deep, refined earthy scent with sweet undertones. True to valerian family, soothes stress
and chronic insomnia by easing tensions and promoting sound sleep. Dry, itchy skin and
scalp, psoriasis. BCDIMSP
SPRUCE, BLACK Picea mariana 
Sweet, forest-fresh needle oil. Used as an adrenal tonic in helping the body adapt to stress.
BCDIM
TARRAGON Artemisia dracunculus  
Anise-like herbal aroma. Strong antispasmodic, especially useful for menstrual or abdomi-
nal cramps and hiccups. Inhalations may ease allergy symptoms. BCIM
TEA TREE Melaleuca alternifolia
Penetrating, medicinal odor. Broad spectrum antibacterial with excellent antifungal and
antiviral properties. Use directly on burns, abrasions, abscesses, acne or wherever there is
sign of infection. May be safely used in gargles, vaginal douches, sitz baths or externally for
ear infections.Child-safe. BCDIMS
THUJA/CEDAR LEAF/WHITE CEDAR Thuja occidentalis
This oil contains a high level of the toxic ketone
thujone. Use in moderation for external use only.  Avoid in pregnancy or epilepsy
Can be used for warts by adding 1-3 drops in an  Use in moderation and highly diluted;
ounce of carrier oil. S may be a potential skin irritant
! May be photosensitizing
17

18. THYME, LINALOL Thymus vulgaris linalol  
Almost sweet antiseptic aroma. Gentle on the skin yet an effective antibacterial agent.
Purifying skin preparations, gargles, chest rubs. BCDIMS
THYME, RED Thymus vulgaris thymol  
Warm, intense herbal fragrance with stimulating, energizing properties. One of the most
anti-infectious of all oils, it is a skin irritant and should be highly diluted. Avoid in high blood
pressure. DIM
VANILLA CO2 Vanilla planifolia
Familiar, rich, sweet fragrance softens all blends. Sensual and aphrodisiac. Premium ex-
tract from Madagascar is naturally thick and resinous. Hold in pocket or hands for a few
minutes to help liquefy the oil. Combines well with vetiver, spice, resin and citrus oils. BMP
VETIVER Vetiveria zizanoides
Earthy, deep and exotic aroma with sweet undertones and comforting, sedative effects.
Dilute in blends for acne and oily skin; muscular aches. Used as a fixative in perfumery,
especially for men’s colognes, it blends well with lavender, rose, jasmine, oakmoss, ylang,
citrus and wood oils. BCMSP
WINTERGREEN Gaultheria fragrantissima  
Fresh, sharp, minty aroma nearly identical with birch. One of the best anti-inflammatories
and antispasmodics for overworked muscles, sprains, painful joints and arthritis. Always use
in dilution to avoid skin irritation. BCM
YARROW Achillea millefolium 
Soft, full, cool blue aroma with camphorous notes. Specific for inflamed skin, acne and
arthritis. Astringent, antirheumatic, anti-inflammatory, vulnerary. BCDIMS
YLANG YLANG Cananga odorata
Intensely sweet, tropical floral fragrance with an exotic hint of spice. Calming hypotensive
and muscle relaxant; aphrodisiac, euphoric, antispasmodic, antidepressant. Used for oily
skin care. One drop in a bowl of warm water makes a relaxing facial wash. A good fixative,
it blends well with clary sage, jasmine, bergamot, vetiver, rose, citrus, spice and wood oils.
BCDIMSP
18

19. SIMPLERS SYMPTOM REFERENCE GUIDE
ACNE Simplers Acne Aid, Lavender, Lavender Spike, Niaouli, Tea Tree, Thyme linalol,
Rosemary verbenon, Palmarosa, Green Myrtle, Moroccan Blue Chamomile, German
Chamomile, Geranium, Yarrow & Cistus, Simplers Neroli Hydrosol
ALLERGY Niaouli, all Chamomiles, Lavender & Tarragon
ANTIBACTERIAL Simplers Compound Help, Simplers Acne Aid, Tea Tree, Thyme thymol,
Thyme linalol, Rosemary cineole, Rosemary verbenon, Australian Sandalwood, Palmarosa,
all Lavenders, Oregano, Sage & Cistus
ANTIDEPRESSANT Melissa (Lemon Balm), Peppermint, Clary Sage, Bergamot, Neroli,
Geranium, Ylang, Rose, Jasmine, Marjoram, Anise, all Citrus & all Pines, Simplers Hydrosols
ANXIETY Neroli, Vetiver, Rose otto, Lavender, Lemon Verbena, Orange, all Chamomiles,
Petitgrain, Mandarin, Spikenard, Melissa, Sweet Marjoram, Simplers Neroli Perfume Oil,
Simplers Rose Perfume Oil, Simplers Hydrosols.
APHRODISIAC Jasmine, all Rose, Ylang, Neroli, Australian Sandalwood, Vanilla, Vetiver,
Clary Sage, all Simplers Perfume Oils
ATHLETES FOOT Simplers Yeast Aid, all Lavender, Tea Tree, Moroccan Blue Chamomile,
German Chamomile, Thyme linalol, Clove, Niaouli, Australian Sandalwood, Oregano, &
Sage
ARTHRITIS/TENDONITIS Simplers Arthritis Aid, Simplers Injury Oil, Wintergreen,
Helichrysum, Eucalyptus citriodora, Moroccan Blue Chamomile, German Chamomile,
Lavender, Yarrow & Simplers Arnica Infused Oil
BLEMISHES/RASHES Simplers Acne Aid, Moroccan Blue Chamomile, German
Chamomile, Calendula CO2, Lavender, Lemon, Tea Tree, Rose otto, Palmarosa &
Helichrysum, Simplers Hydrosols
BRUISES Simplers Injury Oil, Helichrysum, Moroccan Blue Chamomile, German
Chamomile, Lavender, Peppermint, Lemon, Simplers Arnica, St. John’s Wort & Calendula
Infused Oils
CELLULITE Cedar Atlas, Cypress, Grapefruit, Geranium, Juniper, Niaouli, Fennel, Sage,
Eucalyptus citriodora, Lemon, Lavender & Lavender Spike
CIRCULATION Rosemary cineole, Rosemary verbenon, Juniper, Ginger, Cinnamon Leaf
& Bark, Cypress, Geranium, all Pines, Black Spruce, all Eucalyptus, Peppermint & Basil
COLD SORES/HERPES Simplers Herp Aid, Lavender, Lavender Spike, Melissa, Tea
Tree, Ravintsara, Geranium, Hyssop officinalis decumbens, Lemon Verbena & Eucalyptus
citriodora
CONGESTION Simplers Sinus Oil, all Eucalyptus, all Pines, all Firs, Lavender, Lavender
Spike, Rosemary cineole, Rosemary verbenon, Peppermint, Ravintsara, Tea Tree, Hyssop
officinalis decumbens, Green Myrtle, Cistus & Inula
CONCENTRATION/MEMORY/ALERTNESS Basil, Peppermint, Rosemary cineole,
Cypress, Lemon & Eucalyptus globulus
19

20. COUGHS Simplers Sinus Oil, Inula, all Eucalyptus, all Pines, Ravintsara, Cypress, Green
Myrtle, Sweet Marjoram, Benzoin & Roman Chamomile
CUTS/SCRAPES Simplers Compound Help, Lavender, Tea Tree, Moroccan Blue
Chamomile, German Chamomile, Helichrysum & Cistus, Simplers Hydrosols
DANDRUFF Tea Tree, Palmarosa, Atlas Cedar, Rosemary cineole, Rosemary verbenon,
Clary Sage, Cypress, Myrrh, Spikenard, Patchouli & Thyme linalol
DEODORANT Myrrh, Vetiver, Spikenard, Patchouli, Australian Sandalwood, Simplers
Acne Aid
ENERGY/FATIGUE Black Spruce (on Kidney area), Atlas Cedar, all Pines, all Eucalyptus,
Peppermint, Rosemary cineole, Lemon, Juniper, Hyssop, Basil, Ginger, all Citrus & Tea
Tree
ECZEMA Simplers Eczema Aid, Simplers Hydrosols. For Dry eczema use Lavender,
Palmarosa, Moroccan Blue Chamomile, German Chamomile, Calendula CO2, Rose Hip
Seed & Tamanu Oils. For weeping eczema use Moroccan Blue Chamomile, German
Chamomile, Lavender, Eucalyptus citriodora, Thyme linalol, Rose Hip Seed & Tamanu Oils
FLUID RETENTION/EDEMA all Pines, Tea Tree, all Citrus & Black Spruce
FUNGAL INFECTIONS Simplers Yeast Aid, Lavender, Lavender Spike, Tea Tree,
Moroccan Blue Chamomile, German Chamomile, Thyme linalol, Clove, Niaouli,
Patchouli, Oregano & Sage. For nail fungus use Thyme thymol, Cinnamon Bark & Oregano
HAIR/SCALP Rosemary cineole, Rosemary verbenon, Lavender, Lavender Spike, Bay,
Lemongrass, all Chamomiles, Myrrh & Ylang
HEADACHE Lavender (normalizing); Lavender Spike (for tension headaches); Rosemary
cineole, Peppermint (for cooling effect); Anise, Sweet Marjoram & Roman Chamomile (for
throbbing headaches); Simplers Lavender Hydrosol
HEMORRHOIDS See Varicose veins
INDIGESTION Peppermint, Ginger, Cardamom. To promote good digestion use Basil,
Cardamom, Ginger, Coriander, Fennel, Orange, Peppermint, Black Pepper, Rosemary
cineol & Anise
INSOMNIA Spikenard (apply undiluted on collar bone), Lavender, Lemon Verbena,
Roman Chamomile & Neroli
INSECT BITES/STINGS Simplers Compound Help, Moroccan Blue Chamomile, German
Chamomile, Lavender, Lavender Spike, Niaouli & Tea Tree, Simplers Hydrosols
INSECT DETERRENT Tea Tree, Citronella, Palmarosa, All Eucalyptus, All Cedar,
Geranium, Lavender, Peppermint, Lemongrass
IMMUNE SUPPORT Eucalyptus radiata, Ravintsara, Tea Tree, Lavender, Niaouli,
Palmarosa, Geranium, Wild Scotch Pine, Rosemary cineole & Bay Laurel
MEDITATION Frankincense, Myrrh, Patchouli, Vetiver, Spikenard & Australian
Sandalwood
NAUSEA/MOTION SICKNESS Peppermint, Ginger & Patchouli
20

21. MENOPAUSE Clary Sage, Geranium, Frankincense & Lavender, Simplers Geranium
Hydrosol
MENSTRUAL CRAMPS Anise, Roman Chamomile, Sweet Marjoram, Lavender, Ylang,
Lemon Verbena, Clary Sage, Yarrow & Mandarin
MUSCLE ACHES/SPRAINS/SPORTS INJURIES Simplers Injury Oil, Simplers
Arthritis Aid, Moroccan Blue Chamomile & German Chamomile for inflammation, Roman
Chamomile for muscle spasms, Helichrysum, Wintergreen (diluted) topically for pain,
all Eucalyptus, Sweet Marjoram, Rosemary cineole, Simplers Arnica, St. John’s Wort &
Calendula Infused Oils
PMS Rose otto, Clary Sage, Geranium, Bergamot, Neroli, Jasmine, Lavender,
Frankincense, Neroli & Ylang, Simplers Hydrosols
RASH See Blemishes
SCARS/SCAR PREVENTION Simplers Scar & Burn Oil, Simplers Rose Regenerative
Oil, Helichrysum, Lavender, Mugwort, Sage, Cistus, Neroli, Galbanum, Carrot Seed,
Tamanu & Rose Hip Seed Oils
SCIATIC PAIN Lavender, Helichrysum, Simplers St. John’s Wort Infused Oil
SHINGLES Simplers Shingles Aid, Ravintsara, Geranium, German Chamomile, Moroccan
Blue Chamomile & Tamanu Oil
SKIN CARE Simplers Rose Regenerative Oil, Simplers Acne Aid, Simplers Hydrosols, all
Chamomiles, Lavender, Neroli, Rose otto, Palmarosa, Australian Sandalwood & Rosemary
verbenon. For Wrinkles and Mature Skin use Rose otto, Lavender, Neroli, Helichrysum,
Carrot Seed, Frankincense, Myrrh, Palmarosa, Green Myrtle, Ylang & Rose Hip Seed Oil
STRETCH MARKS Preventing: Mandarin & Rose Hip Seed Oil. Healing: Sage, Rosemary
verbenon, Rose otto, Palmarosa & Rose Hip Seed Oil
STRESS RELIEF Neroli, Bergamot, Lavender, all Chamomiles, Geranium, Rose otto,
Grapefruit, Jasmine, Lemon Verbena, Mandarin, Orange, Vetiver, Balsam Peru, Petitgrain,
Clary Sage, Tangerine & Black Spruce, Simplers Hydrosols
SUNBURN Simplers Lavender Hydrosol, Simplers Scar & Burn Oil, Lavender, German
Chamomile & Moroccan Blue Chamomile
VARICOSE VEINS/HEMORRHOIDS Cypress, Lemon, Moroccan Blue Chamomile,
Lavender, Grapefruit, Helichrysum, Juniper, Frankincense, Tamanu & Rose Hip Seed Oils.
WARTS Clove, Oregano, Thyme thymol, Blue Cypress & Thuja (use highly diluted, can
be toxic)
21

22. Blending Basics
Creating your own fragrances is a playful art requiring little more than intuition, imagina-
tion, a passion for aroma, and attention to a few simple guidelines. There are no real rules
as to which oils blend well together, so feel free to experiment! But remember, your blend
will be greatly enhanced by using the highest quality pure plant essential oils you can find.
Start small, mixing no more than 2 to 5 oils per blend and blending drop by drop. To get a
feel for particular combinations of oils, put the bottle caps together and smell them, or use
small strips of coffee filter or blotter paper. Working in a warm room will enhance the aro-
matic qualities of the oils. If your oil bottles are not equipped with dropper tops, measure
oils with a glass dropper, rinsing it in grain alcohol or isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol)
and wiping it off between each oil. Extremely thick oils, such as benzoin and vetiver, may
need to be diluted with a little grain alcohol, such as Everclear, before blending.
Scents are categorized as top, middle, or base notes. These categories are based on oil
evaporation rates and some essential oils can fit into more than one. Most professional
fragrance blends are composed of a balance of oils from these three different categories.
Again, there are no rules about which oils belong in which category or how much of each
to use, so it is up to your nose and your intuition! This is the art of blending fragrant oils.
Top notes (5% to 20% of the blend) have the fastest evaporation rates. These are sharp,
penetrating scents that you notice first when you smell a blend, and include citrus, needle
oils, lemongrass, palmarosa, eucalyptus and mints. In general, top notes are considered
stimulating, light, and refreshing.
Middle notes (50% to 80%) are soft and balanced and usually make up the majority of
a blend. They include oils like roman chamomile, lavender, geranium, coriander, neroli,
pepper, clary sage, rose and petitgrain. Middle notes are considered harmonizing.
Base notes (5% to 20%) Having the lowest evaporation rates, base notes are deep and
heavy and are used in blends as fixatives (see glossary). Many are resins, gums or woods
and may be quite viscous (thick). Base notes, which are considered relaxing, include cedar,
benzoin, balsam peru, myrrh, spikenard, sandalwood, vanilla, patchouli, vetiver, jasmine
and ylang.
Allow blends to age a week or more before adding them to carrier oils. If you don’t im-
mediately love your creation, be patient. Blends undergo great transformations as they age,
and over time your ‘mistake’ could evolve into an aromatic treasure.
Store your finished blend in as small a bottle as possible, preferably amber or cobalt blue
glass. Blends, and all essential oils, should be kept in a cool place away from direct sun.
To make a perfume, mix the blend with a small amount of vegetable oil (jojoba is ideal),
distilled grain or grape alcohol.
Be sure to keep detailed notes and label all of your blends so you can reproduce your suc-
cesses or adjust blends that do not satisfy you. Keep in mind that essential oils tend to vary
somewhat from crop to crop, so a reproduced blend may differ slightly from your original.
22

23. Glossary of Terms
Adaptogenic: Helps skin and body cope with stress.
Analgesic: Reduces or eliminates pain.
Anaphrodisiac: Lessens or mellows erotic feelings.
Antibacterial: Assists the body in resisting or destroying infectious bacteria.
Antidepressant: Helps uplift mood.
Antifungal: Assists the body in resisting or destroying fungal organisms, such as yeast.
Antineuralgic: Helps soothe nerve pain (neuralgia).
Anti-inflammatory: Reduces heat, redness, and swelling associated with inflammation.
Antirheumatic: A general term for an agent that helps ease arthritic symptoms, such as
musculoskeletal pain and inflammation.
Antiseptic: Inhibits the growth of microorganisms such as bacteria or fungi.
All essential oils show some degree of antiseptic action.
Antispasmodic: Eases muscular spasms or cramps.
Antiviral: Assists the body in resisting invasion of viruses or relieving accompanying
symptoms.
Aphrodisiac: Enhances or stimulates erotic feelings.
Astringent: Contracts, firms, and strengthens skin and other tissue; reduces secretions.
Carminative: Promotes digestion and peristalsis; assists in expulsion of intestinal gas.
Couperose: Red, ‘spider-veined’ skin due to weakened or broken capillaries.
Emollient: Softens, soothes and protects especially dry or chapped skin.
Euphoric: Promotes a sense of well-being.
Expectorant: Promotes elimination of excess respiratory mucous.
Fixative: A viscous (thick) oil with a very low evaporation rate; used in perfumery to
stabilize and increase the ‘staying power’ of a blend.
Humectant: Helps skin retain moisture
Mucolytic: Helps fluidify (dissolve) mucous.
Neat: To apply undiluted, directly on skin
Nervine: Having an effect on the nervous system (for example, a sedative or stimulant).
Photosensitizing, phototoxic: May cause a skin reaction such as burning, irritation, or
pigment change upon exposure to ultra-violet light (sunlight, tanning lights).
Regulating: Helps balance and normalize body functions.
Sedative: Relaxing, calming, soothing effects.
Sensitizing: Capable of producing an irritation or allergic reaction.
Stimulant: Invigorating, stimulating, energizing effects.
Tonic: Increases tone and vitality of skin, other organs or body systems.
Vulnerary: Affects wound healing, skin regenerative.
23

24. Suggested Reading List
Aromatherapy: A Complete Guide to the Healing Art by Kathy Keville and Mindy Green
Aromatherapy: An A-Z by Patricia Davis
Aromatherapy for Healing the Spirit by Gabriel Mojay
Natural Perfumes by Mindy Green
Advanced Aromatherapy by Kurt Schnaubelt, Ph. D.
Medical Aromatherapy by Kurt Schnaubelt, Ph. D.
Aromatherapy and Massage for Mother and Baby by Allison England
Naturally Healthy Skin by Stephanie Tourles
The Little Book of Aromatherapy by Kathi Keville
The Complete Guide To Aromatherapy by Salvatore Battaglia
The Illustrated Encyclopedia of Essential Oils by Julia Lawless
The Practice of Aromatherapy by Jean Valnet, MD
Gattefossé’s Aromatherapy: The First Book on Aromatherapy by René-Maurice Gattefossé
The Art of Aromatherapy: The Healing and Beautifying Properties of the Essential Oils of
Flowers and Herbs by Robert B. Tisserand
Essence & Alchemy: A Natural History of Perfume by Mandy Aftel
Holistic Aromatherapy for Animals: A Comprehensive Guide to the Use of Essential Oils and
Hydrosols with Animals by Kristen Leigh Bell
24

25. Notes:

26. PO Box 2534, Sebastopol, CA 95473
1-800-652-7646 Fax 707-824-5906
www.simplers.com office@simplers.com