1. styleThe
where fashion gets personal
Words by Alex Aubry
Photography by Jorell Legaspi
vintage
expression
Sheikha Raya Al-Khalifa is
shaking up Qatar’s style scene
with a mix of old and new
Raya Al-Khalifa wears: Broadtail fur
cape with silver fox collar, Walid at
CoutureLab. Abaya, her own design
with trimmings from haberdashery
shops in Doha. Belt, Alexander
McQueen. Demi-parure of 1950s
earrings and necklace, QR2,875,
Juliana Givré; 1930s dress clip on
turban, QR1,255; 1940s brooch,
QR910, all from Raya Al-Khalifa
private sales @RayaAlKhalifa.
Diamond and emerald bracelet and
diamond ring, Raya’s own
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CREDITHERE
state of Qatar,” continues the mother of two, who believes Sheikha
Mozah’s influence extends far beyond fashion.
“Qatari women today are the most ambitious members of any society
I have come across. They are certainly not ‘kept clothes horses’ but,
rather, burgeoning entrepreneurs, creative artists, dedicated mothers and
avid learners forming the backbone to this tiny Gulf state which is
making waves internationally, and looking pretty chic as they do it!”
Together with her husband Fahad Mohammed Al-Attiya, chairman of
the Qatar National Food Security Programme and legal advisor, and two
young sons, Raya now divides her time between homes in Doha, London
and Florida. Not surprisingly, each location has influenced the way she
dresses today. “Living in Florida gave me a taste for colour and the more
vibrant side of fashion. I moved there at the height of Gianni Versace’s
fame, and the artists Keith Haring and Romero Britto stick out in my
mind from that period as well. In London I’ve always felt more
extroverted and willing to experiment; mixing classic tailored pieces with
quirky accessories. Now that I live in Doha, I’ve been channelling my
inner Grecian goddess with long, flowing dresses and gorgeous vintage
inspired turbans that translate well between the different cultures,”
she explains.
Yet living in both the West and Middle East has also given Raya
a unique vantage point, from which to observe certain misconceptions
about the way women dress in the region. “Many of my Western friends
thought I wouldn’t feel comfortable wearing the abaya, which has not
been the case. I see it instead as a blank canvas to express my own sense
of style. I enjoy adding finishing touches to it or sourcing trimmings to
create a unique look,” explains Raya, who also has a soft spot for vintage
couture and jewellery.
“A lot of people used to scoff at the idea of something ‘old.’ With
vintage it isn’t simply about the designer but the history attached to
STYLEThe
“Igrew uptravellinga
greatdeal,andbeingexposed
todifferentcultureshas
definitely influencedthe
wayIapproachfashion,”
saysSheikha RayaAl-Khalifa,whosepersonalobservation
sumsupthefashionsensibilityofmodern-dayDoha...
cosmopolitan city where cross-cultural encounters are
the norm, today Doha is home to a new generation of
style setters fusing global influences with local customs.
Raya Al-Khalifa, a Bahraini married to a Qatari,
spent most of her childhood between the UK, US
and the Middle East. Despite her international
upbringing, her Arab roots have remained strong. “My maternal
grandmother has always been a huge inspiration to me throughout my
life. A true lady in every sense, she came of age in old-world Iraq before
the revolution. At the time, Baghdad was one of the artistic and
intellectual capitals of the Arab world; producing noted poets, painters
and musicians. I spent hours listening to her stories,” recalls Raya.
Leafing through a family album filled with sepia-tinted photographs
taken during the reign of King Ghazi I, the 28-year-old points to her
elegant grandmother posing in tailored 1930s suits and long column
evening gowns. “She taught me some of my earliest lessons in style;
always groomed to perfection with her twice-a-week salon-set waves.
She favoured quality over trends and, even while wearing Saint Laurent,
Dior or Valentino, she always maintained a classic look accessorised with
an Hermès scarf or a big cocktail ring.””
Raya also credits another regional style icon with instilling a sense of
pride in her. “I feel so fortunate to witness what is happening in Qatar
first hand. There is a real sense of positive change and development
touching all facets of society,” says Raya, who looks up to Qatar’s
fashionable first lady Sheikha Mozah. “Her Highness has garnered a lot
of attention and appreciation in recent years, and will go down in history
as one of the great influential women of her time. Not only for her style
and grace, but also for what she has done for women, culture and
education in the region. She’s developed an ambitious vision for the
Qatar Foundation, which is the engine behind the rebirth of the modern
A
➤
1960s emerald necklace and
two-bracelet parure, price on
request, Ciner at Raya Al-Khalifa
private sales @RayaAlKhalifa.
Earrings, Graff; panther ring,
Cartier; gold, emerald and
diamond ring, Graff; sunglasses,
Miu Miu; cape, Ralph Lauren;
dress, Cos; gloves, Harrods;
turban, made from fabric
sourced in Doha; fox fur collar;
all Raya’s own
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STYLEThe
Dress, Roksanda Ilincic; belt,
Urterque; coral and gold rings; hat,
Eric Javits; orange scarf, Hermès;
Serpenti watch, Bulgari; Collier de
chien cuff, Hermès, all Raya’s own.
Vintage earrings, QR2,730; vintage
necklace, price on request, Valentino;
both from Raya Al-Khalifa private sales
@RayaAlKhalifa. Cushions and throw,
Versace for H&M. Leopard cushion,
Zara Home
Abaya, Raya’s own design; Collier de chien
cuff, Hermès; vintage shell clutch; shoes,
Jimmy Choo; vintage watch and bracelet set
on right hand, Versace; sunglasses, Versace;
vintage earrings, Versace; vintage cuff on left
arm, Chanel; panther ring, Cartier; all Raya’s
own. Vintage belt worn as necklace, price on
request, Chanel; vintage water bottle holder,
price on request, Chanel; vintage panther
bracelets, QR3,095, Ciner; all from Raya
Al-Khalifa private sales @RayaAlKhalifa
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STYLEThe
a garment as well as the craftsmanship. Lately I’ve noticed a shift in
attitude towards vintage, especially amongst a younger generation of
fashion-forward women,” says Raya, who confides that her best source
for vintage pieces remains her mother’s closet. Over the years she has
unearthed stunning examples by Balenciaga and Dior, still in perfect
condition, having been vacuum-sealed and labelled years ago.
“I always hold onto pieces that were passed down to me, as I have
a real appreciation for their beauty and history,” notes Raya, who has
also been rediscovering vintage pieces from her own past.
“Last year in Florida I found my old Versace gold medusa bracelets
from the ’90s, safely tucked away and forgotten all these years. I don’t
think they suited me as a tween, but I carry them off today far better
than my 11-year-old self!” recalls Raya, who still regards couture as the
ultimate fashion fantasy.
“I have a deep respect for the art of haute couture. It is exactly that, an
art, and I’m eager to see how a new generation of couturiers, from
Giambattista Valli to Raf Simons at Dior, are updating this centuries-old
craft. Some may see them as overly expensive clothes, but after listening
to my grandmother and mother explain the awe-inspiring process of
being fitted for a couture gown one begins to understand why it is so
special. These trained seamstresses spend hundreds of hours to produce
one-of-a-kind pieces, which is especially telling in an age when designer
gowns are pumped fresh off the assembly line,” explained Raya.
Sensing her daughter’s interest in fashion at a young age, Raya’s
mother took her to the library to check out books on designers such as
Coco Chanel and Christian Dior. The fruits of that early exposure are
evident today in her personal library, filled with books on fashion, art,
history and exhibits she’s visited over the years.
“I’m not only interested in a designer’s latest collection, but also
fashion history and how it influences the way we dress. Visiting museums
is an intrinsic part of any travel experience for me, and some of my
favourites include the Prado in Madrid and the Topkapi Palace in
Istanbul,” she explains, noting that the Qatari capital has its own cultural
gems such as the Museum of Islamic Art, one of her favourite cultural
spots in Doha.
Those close to Raya are not surprised that she will be launching her
own vintage jewellery business this year. It is a passion inherited from
her mother, whose Graff pieces from the 1970s and ’80s she had long
coveted for their designs studded with corals, turquoise and onyx.
“My great grandmother was Turkish and during her youth she spent
time in Paris in the early 1900s. You can only imagine the beautiful
baubles she amassed! My mother and I both shared this passion for
vintage jewels, and would travel to specialised markets all over the world.
Wake-up calls at 4am were not uncommon on these expeditions, but the
rewards were worth it, as we discovered some rare and unique pieces,”
says Raya, producing velvet-lined trays holding glittering examples of
costume jewellery, the craftsmanship mirroring that of the real thing.
“The collection includes examples by Ciner from the ’60s-’80s, which
was a favourite of Elizabeth Taylor. Trifari’s head designer from the
1930s-50s was Alfred Philippe, who once worked for Van Clef & Arpels;
while Marcel Boucher, who was a famed American costume jeweller in
the 1950s, trained at Cartier. Kramer, another legendary name in the
1940s, went on to design pieces for Christian Dior,” explains Raya, who
knows all there is to know about the history of each piece and the
fashionable personalities who were customers as well.
“Kenneth Jay Lane created bold and exotic pieces for regular clients
such as Jackie Kennedy Onassis and the Duchess of Windsor. It’s that
very history which attracts me to these pieces,” she adds.
After years spent accumulating many of these pieces, Raya decided to
cultivate a market and appreciation for vintage costume jewellery in the
Middle East. “In the States it’s relatively easy to find like-minded people
who are true connoisseurs and collectors of vintage costume jewellery
from the last century. But I want to carve a niche here, and share my love
and knowledge of these historic brands through a series of travelling
trunk shows around the region,” says Raya, whose long term goal is to
create a jewellery line inspired by her favourite vintage pieces. “Expect
glistening crystal and gold ’40s-style buckle bracelets, and geometric
deco designs,” she promises. ■
Kaftan, Marchesa; turban, material sourced
from Doha fabric store; vintage turquoise
earrings, Valentino; vintage rings; vintage fan,
all Raya’s own. Vintage necklace, QR4,550;
vintage bracelets on left arm, from QR1,640-
QR4,370; vintage bracelet on right arm,
price on request; all from Raya Al-Khalifa
private sales @RayaAlKhalifa. Raya will be
showcasing her vintage collection across the
Gulf. Details of dates and locations will be
posted on Twitter @RayaAlKhalifa. Make-up:
Devi Mendez. Styling assistant: Chantal
Mossess Boyajian. Photography assistants:
Riham Fahed and Moustapha Siblini. With
thanks to Sharq Village and Spa, Doha