Apparel Standards & Quality Assurance / Wovens

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Apparel Standards & Quality Assurance Manual
RCG Group/Classic Fashions Division (WOVENS)
RCG Group/Classic Fashions Division
(WOVENS)
A MANUAL

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Contents:
Fabric
CPQA-1.1: Fabric Checking & Quality Control
CPQA-1.2: 4-Point System
CPQA-1.3: Definition of Fabric Defect, Identification & Grading
Work Process
CPQA-2.1: Work Process
CPQA-2.2: Work Order Package & Processing
CPQA-2.3: Pre-Production & Production Processing
CPQA-2.4: Final Inspection & Dispatch of Finished Goods
CPQA-2.5: Standard Work Procedure (a)
Sewing
CPQA-3.1: Standard Sewing Instructions
CPQA-3.2: Quality of Stitch Line
CPQA-3.3: Quality of Sewing
CPQA-3.4: Quality of Branding Items
CPQA-3.5: Thread Quality
CPQA-3.6: Buttons
CPQA-3.7: Other Sewing Quality
CPQA-3.8: Standard Work Procedure (B)
Consumption
CPQA-4.1: Standard Consumption Instructions
Checking & Finishing
CPQA-5.1: Standard Finishing Instructions
CPQA-5.2: Alignment & Measurements
CPQA-5.3: Thread
CPQA-5.4: Foreign Materials
CPQA-5.5: Ironing & Folding
CPQA-5.6: Trims & Accessories Attachment
CPQA-5.7: Washed Garments
Packing & Dispatching
CPQA-6.1: General Packing Instructions:
CPQA-7.1: Carton Packing & Dispatch of Goods:
CPQA-8.1: Protocol For Final Inspection
CPQA-9.1: Minimum Fabric Standards for Men’s Woven Fabrics:
CPQA-10.1: Woven Fabrics Performance Specification for Large Retail
Organization

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FABRIC & TEXTILE GOODS
CPQA-1.1: Fabric Checking & Quality Control
A/4.1 Fabric should be checked for the following defects (excess of the tolerance
provided for flagging in fabrics) before proceeding with cutting program. All
defective fabric should be returned to fabric supplier without any alteration
to the length of the material.
Holes & cut marks / Slubs / Bowing /
Uneven pattern width along the length /
Color variations / Seam strength of the fabric /
Color fastness & shrinkage in case of washed program.
B/4.1 Avoid the selvedge (0.50 Inch) in the market plan & pattern lay. Excess
selvedge is a fabric defect & has to be intimated on increase of consumption.
C/4.1 Fabric defects are strong areas of value loss/loss of consumption. Control it!!
D/4.1 75% of cost control in any garmenting process can be controlled at the fabric
stage. Ensure consumption control for better valuation to the product.
E/4.1 Insist on 3 Size mix markers (12feet) for optimum consumption advantage.
F/4.1 Line matching is an important feature for branded products.
CPQA-1.2: 4-Point System:
The 4-point system, also called the
American Apparel Manufacturers
Association (AAMA) point-grading
system for determining fabric quality
is to be used for fabric quality
checking. Fabric flaws or defects are
assigned point values based on the
following. Defects are assigned points
based on their size or Length of defect
in fabric, either length or width Points Allotted
For example, a fabric roll 120 yards long & 48 in. wide contains the following defects:
Total defect points per 100 square yards are calculated, & normally those fabric rolls
containing more than 40 points per 100 square yards are considered “seconds".
Important Points: The following points are worthy of note:
(a) The maximum number of defect points to be counted against any linear yard
is 4 points. (b) The fabric is graded regardless of the end product. (c) No industry
standards or acceptable limits exist for shortage in the number of yards on a roll
of fabric as much as 2 or 3% shortage & some do not accept any shortage.
SIZE OF DEFECT VERSUS POINTS
Up to 3 inch: 1 Point
Over 3 inch up to 6 inch: 2 Point
Over 6 inch up to 9 inch: 3 Point
Over 9 inch: 4 Point
Holes & openings 1 inch or less: 2 Point
Over 10 inch: 4 Point
2 defects up to 3 inch (2 Defects)X (1 Point) 2 points
5 defects over 3 inch but less than 6 inch (5 Defects x 2 Points) 10 points
1 defect over 6 inch but less than 9 inch (1 Defects) X (3 Points) 3 points
1 defect over 9 inch (1 Defect) X (4 Points) 4 points
Total defect points 19 points

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CPQA-1.3: Definitions of Fabric Defects, Identification & Grading
A/1.3: Self-Descriptive Defects
Hole Curled selvedge Foreign matter Torn Selvedge
Slack, uneven,
or tight selvedge
Cut Soiled end or pick Slack end or pick Crease or wrinkle
Scalloped or wavy
selvedge
Knot Stringy selvedge Spots or stains Hanging or loose thread
Streak Tight end or pick Tear Uneven warp or filling
B/1.3: Fabric Structure to Tensile & Tear Strength & Abrasion
Resistance Relation:
Key
Fabric
Structure
Tensile
Strength
Tear Strength
Abrasion
Resistance
Low Loose 1 3 1
Medium Moderate 2 2 3
Tight Tight 3 1 2
C/1.3: Colorfastness Tests:
GRADE Change in color Staining Color Transfer Parameters:
Change in color-
On the gray scale
Staining-
On the staining scale
Color Transfer-
On the chromatic transference scale
CLASS-5 Excellent Excellent Excellent
CLASS-4 Good Good Good
CLASS-3 Okay Okay Okay
CLASS-2 Bad Bad Bad
CLASS-1 Worse Worse Worse

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WORK PROCESS
CPQA-2.1: Work Process
At Classic Polo, we would be following the below mentioned process in all the work
order execution. It is expected that the converter should be informed of these work
processes for clarity of working. The system that needs to be followed to process any
particular order is as follows:
CPQA-2.2: Work Order Package
A/2.2 Work Order Package will include the following documents:
Purchase Order (PO) / Order Break-Up / Measurement Sheets / Design
Sheet / Trims Card with all the trims
B/2.2 Work Order package should be provided in one lot only.
C/2.2 Trims & Accessories that has to be provided by the brand has to be ensured
delivery at the manufacturing units within 24-48 hours of dispatch of the
work order package. If the same cannot be delivered for any reason,
substitute has to be arranged or the item cancelled. In case of emergency, the
sewing trims should be provided on priority. Packing trims can be provided
within a mutually agreed period.
CPQA-2.3: Pre-Production & Production Processing
A/2.3 Pre-Production Sample (2 No’s per Job Order): To be presented on receipt of
the order. For verification of styling, trims, branding, quality of product &
packing. Bulk processing can be started on return-receipt of one PP Sample
with a confirmation.
B/2.3 Time & Action (T&A) Plan has to be generated for each order & intimated to
the merchandisers after receipt of the PP Approval. This will include the
processing time, the date of inspection & delivery of finished goods along
with consumption.
C/2.3 Dates provided by the factory for delivery of goods should have 1-2%
deviation.
D/2.3 On-line Q/C is mandatory, to be confirmed & tracked based on the T&A plan
chart.
CPQA-2.4: Final Inspection & Dispatch of Finished Goods
A/2.4 All production (online), Washing & Finishing, for any specific order has to be
totally completed before requesting for final inspection.
B/2.4 Date of final inspection should be informed to the merchandisers to plan the
correct date of inspection, thus ensuring delivery of goods on time. There
should be a minimum of 6-10 days of intimidation lead time.

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C/2.4 Final inspection should be conducted as per AQL 1.50 systems. The goods will
be assigned to assorted inspection at the factory. The quality inspection will
be random from an assorted list.
D/2.4 Shipment of any product code has to be done in one lot. Part shipment of any
product code will not be accepted & the same will be returned back.
E/2.4 Goods can be shipped out only after a written confirmation has been received
from the Quality Assurance Executive/Manager.
F/2.4 The liability of quality on the product is nullified after the goods (passing the
final inspection) have been moved out of the conversion unit.
Important: The Merchandisers will assess the goods & process at all stages of
production, along with the Q/A team on production, quality & dispatch. It will be
mutual responsibility of the factory, Merchandiser & Quality Control to ensure that
goods dispatched are of approved quality standards.
CPQA-2.5: Standard Work Practices (A)
A/2.5 Ensure proper documentation of all process.
B/2.5 Ensure all terms & conditions are agreed before initiating work.
C/2.5 Tele-confirmation on any issue has to be confirmed with written
communication.
D/2.5 Vendors’ liability on the quality of product ceases to exist after the goods
are moved from the converters premises.
E/2.5 However if on certain instances the quality of goods is found to be passed
through malicious methods, the same shall be confronted to the converter
for explanation. The merchandiser & Quality Control team will be liable to
be held accountable on such instances.
F/2.5 All communication with the brand has to be through a single channel of the
QA Executive-to-merchandiser-to-Merchandising Head.
G/2.5 If proper representation is not provided by the merchandiser, the next
senior in hierarchy can be contacted for immediate solution.

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SEWING
CPQA-3.1: Standard Sewing Instructions:
Two broad categories of sewing instruction will be followed for any particular season:
Formal & Casuals. Formals will have standard sewing guidelines. Casuals (including
semi-formals & street wear) will have flexible sewing instruction as per design/style.
CPQA-3.2: Quality of Stitch Line
A/3.2 The stitch line quality should be neat & precise.
B/3.2 Uniformity of SPI within a line should be maintained.
C/3.2 Stitch slippages are major quality issues & should be avoided.
D/3.2 Stitch line should not create any gathering or have thread bulk.
E/3.2 Stitches Per Inch (SPI): All operations must meet SPI (stitches per inch)
requirement designated in the product specification.
F/3.2 Avoid wrong stitch density at the stitch line.
G/3.2 SPI allocation: Too many give rise to jamming & rupture of fabric threads;
Too few to grinning or weak seams.
CPQA-3.3: Quality of Sewing
A/3.6 Skipped stitches form the hook irregularly failing to pick up the loop of
thread from a needle’s eye owing to a number of causes, is not acceptable.
B/3.6 Broken stitches, arising from the wrong stitch type, too tight tensions, a
badly formed joint in the seam where the second line of stitch runs over the
first & cracks it, sharp feeds, & too great a pressure are signs of bad
workmanship.
C/3.6 Uneven stitch densities (Operator causes machine to snatch & does not
allow machine to control fabric.) are signs of poorly finished garments.
D/3.6 Staggered stitch, from faulty feed motion, incorrect needle, & other machine
parts are unacceptable.
E/3.6 Improperly formed stitches, caused by bad tension, incorrectly adjusted
timing, ill fitting machine components.
F/3.6 Irregular or incorrect shape of sewing line (sometimes called run-offs) in top
stitching, arising from lack of or badly set guide, not following a mark or
incorrect handling are not acceptable.
G/3.6 Insecure back stitching, because subsequent rows do not cover the first row
of stitching.
H/3.6 Blind stitching showing on the face side, or not securely caught on inside,
arising from improperly adjusted bender should be avoided
I/3.6 Seam grin, arising from too loose a tension or too large a stitch, or the use of
the wrong stitch type.
J/3.6 Seam pucker, because of incorrect handling by the operator misaligned
notches, or tight thread tensions.
K/3.6 Pleated seams, an extreme form of 7, where operator failed to ease in
fullness evenly.

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L/3.6 Seaming defects usually caused by errors arising from the interaction of
the operator & machine in the handling of the garment.
M/3.6 Twisted seam leading to irregular puckering or the garment parts not
hanging correctly when worn; caused by improper alignment of fabric
parts, mismatched notches, & allowing one ply to creep against another.
N/3.6 Mismatched seam, where transverse seams do not match (e.g., inside leg
seams at the fork of trousers).
O/3.6 Wrong seam or stitch type used, against the tech pack specification.
CPQA-3.4: Quality of Branding Items Attachment
A/3.4 Positions of the main label & other branding will be as per specifications in
the Design Sheet.
B/3.4 All branding items (labels) should be neatly attached without slip stitches
or excess bulk at the sewing location.
CPQA-3.5: Thread Quality
A/3.5 Color: Sewing thread color should be tone-on-tone or contrast, as
specified in the instruction sheet.
B/3.5 Counts: Thread can be 20s/30s/50s for causal & street wear, while
80s/100s/120s can be used for formals. (As per specification).
C/3.5 Quality: Thread quality should be Spun Poly in the specific count of yarn.
The tensile strength of the stitch should be optimum without creating any
kind of gaping or weakness in-between the seams.
D/3.5 Thread breaks, arising from too thick a thread for the needle, too thin a
thread, needle heat, operator working un-rhythmically, or too tight
tensions.
CPQA-3.6: Buttons
A/3.6 Buttons will always be Dye-to-Match (DTM) unless specified otherwise.
B/3.6 Button stitch should have self lock.
C/3.6 Thread color on button can be DTM or contrast.
CPQA-3.7: Other Sewing Quality Parameters
A/3.7 Needle damage as evidenced by holes, picked threads, ruptured thread or
other damage to the fabric, caused by wrong size or type of needle, blunt
needle, needle hear, or machine feeding difficulty are quality issues to be
avoided.
B/3.7 Feed damage, particularly on thicker or sheer fabrics, or when machining
over transverse seams, from:
1. Incorrect type of teeth,
2. Excessive pressure by foot,

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3. Improper alignment of feed & foot,
4. Damaged throat plate,
5. Excessive machine speed.
All the above are unacceptable quality & have to be avoided.
C/3.7 Open thread ends & overlap stitch lines at any point has to be avoided.
Any such issues have to be corrected before passing through finishing &
checking.
D/3.7 The bottom hem should be uniform & symmetrical in shape. Uneven
shaping & matching of the hemline will be considered defective & subject
to rejection.
E/3.7 Bar tacks should be neat, of the appropriate measurement (as per
instructions) & specific to the location. The dimensions & quality of the
bar tack has to be approved.
F/3.7 Oil spots or stains have to be cleaned from the finished garments.
G/3.7 Incorrect or uneven width of inlay, arising from bad handling by operator,
incorrectly set guide, incorrectly adjusted folder. In extreme cases, the
seams burst open raw edges show slippage of weave threads occur, or
notches are exposed.
H/3.7 Mismatched checks or stripes.
I/3.7 Wrong shade of thread used.
J/3.7 Assembly Defects (perhaps caused by errors arising in marking & cutting,
as well as sewing operations in the sewing room or a combination of
these)
K/3.7 Finished components not correct to size or shape for not symmetrical.
L/3.7 Finished garment not to size arising from incorrect patterns, inaccurate
marking or cutting, shrinking or stretching fabric, incorrect seam widths.
M/3.7 Parts, components, closures, or features omitted, caused by bad work
flow, & wrongly printed work tickets, parts omitted in cutting, careless
operator.
N/3.7 Components or features wrongly positioned or misaligned arising from
incorrect marking, or sewing not following the mark (e.g., pockets,
bartacks, top stitching, button holes, buttons, hooks & bars, hooks &
eyes, zips).
O/3.7 Interlining incorrectly positioned, twisted, too full, too tight, cockling.
P/3.7 Lining too full, too tight, showing below the bottom of the garment,
twisted, incorrectly pleated & so on.
Q/3.7 Garment parts shaded owing to being mixed after cutting.
R/3.7 Parts in one-way fabrics in wrong direction, usually only small parts, such
as pockets.
S/3.7 Mismatched trimming.
CPQA-3.8: Standard Work Practices (B)
A/3.8 Appropriate quality check should be maintained at all levels of
manufacturing. Fabric - cutting -online production – finishing –Checking
- Ironing & Packing.
B/3.8 Neat premises are very important to achieve neat product.

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C/3.8 To achieve 95-100% efficiency in eliminating loose thread from a garment,
the production unit should have thread sucking M/C.
D/3.8 Side seams should be made only with FOA (Feed-of-Arm) M/C.
E/3.8 Kansai & sleeve placket should be made with specific folders & not with
single needle M/C to obtain uniformity.
F/3.8 Sleeves should be roll folded before hem finish stitch.

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CONSUMPTION
CPQA-4.1: Standard Consumption Instructions:
All consumption related issues for both FOB & Semi-FOB will be subject to approval.
Allowances are allocated for orders as per the level of difficulty within the product in
production. Consumption of fabrics in any product type depends on five major factors
& a series of minor factors:
a. Fabric design (Solids/Stripers/Checks). Check & stripers will also be subject
to the size of repeat.
b. Width of the Fabric ( 36 Inch / 46 Inch / 52 Inch / 58 Inch )
c. Style complication in the product design,
d. Marker Length or lay table length (From 6 ft – 14 ft)
e. Size mix within the lay (single size-mix / 2 size-mixes / 3 size-mixes.)
For optimum quality control, ensure the following instructions are followed during
laying & cutting
A/4.1 Ensure all grain lines are in straight lines (90 degree for straight & 45 degree
for bias) as per specification. Please use original grain lines in the marked
positions. Tilting of pattern in lay ensures bad quality of garment.
B/4.1 All matching patterns (like, pocket, Sleeve to shoulder etc) should be placed
within the areas where the line matching (mitering) is possible.
C/4.1 Any particular fit (Regular/Slim/Ultra-slim) of garment should be planned in
the same marker & cutting program.
D/4.1 Square pattern procedure should be applied to areas where there is a strong
possibility of matching being delicate. Front panels, Sleeves & pockets are
the areas which should be controlled.
E/4.1 Embroidered panels should be cut with the allowances for frames for the
process

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CHECKING & FINISHING
CPQA-5.1: Product Quality
Standard Finishing Instructions:
The final look of the garment includes the quality of the packed product, trimmings
used & the presentation. It is very important that the quality of the product reaches to
the customer as per pre-conceived expectation of quality.
CPQA-5.2: Alignments & Measurements:
A/5.2 Measurements: Must not exceed tolerance specified on individual In-Process
specifications (Allowance must be made for seam off & stitch margins on
subsequent operations).
B/5.2 Crooked, Puckered, Curled, Pleated Seams: Finished garment appearance or
serviceability must not be adversely affected.
C/5.2 Automatic operations such as buttonhole or bartacks: 3/8” allowed unless
thread contrasts with garment & creates poor appearance.
D/5.2 Finished seams 3/8” allowable if texture polyester thread is used. Otherwise
none allowed on outside if contrasting & visible to the consumer. Allowed on
outside if matching thread is used & tail is less than ¼”.
E/5.2 Stripe: On stripe matched seams, stripes must match + ¼”.
F/5.2 Hems: Defective if excessively curled, puckered, pleated, or Embroidery,
Print, Screen Print, Zippers, collars. Poorly attached, position incorrect,
incomplete, zipper inoperative.
G/5.2 No raw edges/open seam should be seen if not mentioned clearly in the
design sheet.
a. Raw Edge, untrimmed: No raw edge allowed on outside finished
seams. No raw edge inside wider than ¼”.
b. Unclipped Threads & Long Ends. On intermediate operations (i.e.
those operations which will be seamed over or covered by a
subsequent operation) threads will be specified on In-Process Quality
Specifications for that operation.
CPQA-5.3: Thread
A/5.3 Trimming of raw threads should be neatly done to avoid any kind of hanging
loose threads.
a. Open Seams: No open or raw seams allowed except on hems where
up to 5/8” allowed.
b. Skipped Stitches: No skips allowed on chain stitch or raveling stitch
unless skip will be covered by a subsequent operation.
CPQA-5.4: Foreign Materials

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A/5.4 Stains & foreign markings should be neatly removed from the garments using
white petrol or any other solutions/medium available. Minor/major stain
which cannot be removed should be marked as second (2nds) & offered
separately along with the approved quality goods.
B/5.4 Broken Needle: Any broken needle left in garment has to be removed either
manually or through magnetic sucking M/C.
C/5.4 Uneven Seams: Leg, Sleeve cuff, or other seams designed to meet evenly
must by 3/8” or less. Front opening panels must be no more than ¼” from
meeting evenly.
D/5.4 All foreign objects like loose thread, needle tips, dust particles etc should be
extracted before final packing.
CPQA-5.5: Ironing & Folding:
A/5.5 Ironing has to be crisp & should not leave any kind of crumpling or stains on
the final product, unless specified for steam irons or mild ironing, where there
is a clear instruction to retain crumpled look in the finished product.
B/5.5 Fold ironing: Fold ironing has to be avoided at two places in particular for the
shirts: The crease of the collar fold. & Cuff fold crease. Cuffs & collars should
be ironed flat & not in its folded state.
C/5.5 Fold iron have to be maintained at the formal trousers where the center
crease has to be maintained. The iron crease line should not be visible both at
the edges of the cuff or the collar.
D/5.5 The fold of the garments should be neatly done. The sleeves should be neatly
folded & never be crumpled.
E/5.5 Wherever interlining or microdot fusing is used, please ensure that bubbling is
avoided e.g., collar & cuff. It has to be ensured that bubbling does not appear
due to washing.
CPQA-5.6: Trims & Accessory Attachment:
A/5.6 The inner brandings like tissue paper & foams should be crisp till the product
reaches the store shelves.
B/5.6 All branding (hangtags & other detachable tags) should be put in the right
place & in the right order as instructed.
C/5.6 Labels: Defect if crooked, missing, incorrect, insecurely attached, or seriously
puckered. Stitching not to cover logo in any manner.
D/5.6 Snaps, Fasteners: Missing, loose or misaligned. Stud must match socket
within ¼” Greater tolerance allowed only if appearance is not seriously
affected.
E/5.6 Trim: Missing or obviously pieced, shaded or defective so as to affect
appearance of finished garment.
F/5.6 Buttons: Loose, damaged, missing, or misaligned to buttonhole + 3/8”.
i. Button must easily button through buttonholes.
ii. Buttons are supposed to be intact on the products through multiple
washes at the consumer end.

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iii. To approve button attachment quality, the button has to be
stretched with mild pressure to ensure that the threads are locked.
G/5.6 Zipper in the trousers should be left at the lower end in open fly condition
during packing.
Testing of Zippers:
The usefulness of a zipper in service is evaluated by the following strength
tests. No one test determines the suitability of a zipper for a specific end use.
Since the tests are interrelated, more than one may be needed for a complete
evaluation. Zipper strength is usually tested in the following areas:
(a) Crosswise strength (b) Scoop pull-off (c) Holding strength of stops (d)
Scoop slippage (e) Slide deflection & recovery (f) Resistance to twist of pull
& slider (g) Resistance to pull-off slider pull
H/5.6 Inner pocket lining in trousers should always match the body fabric or be in
the specific lining fabric asked for in any specific design.
CPQA-5.7: Washed Garments:
A/5.7 Wash product (shirts) should never be with collarbones.
B/5.7 In case of washed garments, the moisture contents should be appropriate
(not dry) during finishing & ironing to provide the required moisture.
C/5.7 Washed garments should never be crisp ironed.

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PACKING & DISPATCHING-1
CPQA-6.1: General Packing Instructions:
Product presentation is one of the most important reasons why a product is
purchased. The following instruction to be followed for product packaging.
A/6.1 Miscellaneous:
a. Clip placement in shirts: Back Fold (1.5 inches away from the side edges)
/Full Sleeve Cuff Fold & Half Sleeve Cuff Fold / Center fold at back.
b. Styles with detachable collar bones styling should be provided with collar
bone packets along with the hangtags.
c. The folding & front view of the packed product should have the branding
hanging outside on top of the body.
d. The order of inner packing within the shirt will always be in the following
order (From bottom to top with the shirt on the table -front side facing
down) Product (Shirt)-Tissue Paper- Soft Foam-Inner Hard Board.
B/6.1 Branding Tags & Accessories:
All the hanging branding will be looped around the specific position mentioned in the
design sheet in the order mentioned below & shown in the diagram. Quality of thread
loop will be as per sample approved/ provided. Hangtags should be used only with
cord twain (Not with plastic auto-lock cords). Length of the hangtag loop = 3 inches
from knot to end. The order in which the different hangtag should be placed (From
bottom to top):
a. Layer 1: Price/MRP Tags
b. Layer 2: Campaign Tag/
c. Layer 3: Main tag /
d. Layer 4: Wash care.
C/6.1 Boards-Back Support & Runner:
The inner back support - HARDBOARD - has to be of the standard thickness.
a. The shape of the back support & collar stand should be of the specific
design as per sample design provided.
b. Final design of the back support has to be approved along with the
product package.
c. There has to be 1 inch double fold at the center of the back support (for
two-fold back support) to provide for the center fold & thickness in the
final packing.
d. Back support top portion will have Classic Polo branding printed.
e. Measurement of the logo & name will be as per artwork provided.
f. Collar band (paper Patti) support should always be dye-cut.
g. Collar band should fit into the collar band.

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h. Do not use any Collar band support that does not fit the collar band
or is torn to fit into the collar band.
D/6.1 Tissue Paper:
Inner tissue used in shirts will be as per approved quality & artwork for every season.
a. The tissue paper will be legal paper size.
b. The tissue paper will have original branding/message typo over it.
c. Printing Quality: Watermark printing in single color.
E/6.1 Poly bag:
a. Only low density polyethylene (LD-PE) with a film thickness between
0.04 mm & 0.07 mm to be used, without air perforations.
b. Poly bags should always be snugly fitted to the packing item. The
poly bag should fit the body of the packed garment with a maximum
gap of 0.25 Inch on either side. Folded bottom of the poly bag should
have a minimum open width of 2.25 inch.
c. The glue-line/sticker tape should tolerate multiple opening & closing.
d. There should be minimum rustle sound & brittleness to the poly bag.
e. After folding, the flap overlap should be: Minimum = 1.75” to
Maximum = 2.00”. Standard quality instruction should always be
there on the poly bag.
f. Each poly bag must be marked with adhesive size-stickers.
g. Use numbers to specify the sizes: 39, 40, 42, 44, 46 etc
F/6.1 Soft Foam:
The soft foam for packing has to be of the approved quality.
a. DIMENSIONS should be between 0.3-0.6 mm thicknesses.
b. The shape of the soft foam should complement the shape of the
product.
c. Soft foam should fit edge-to-edge without bulk due to layering or
edge overlap.
d. The soft foam should be machine cut. It should never be
hand/scissors cut with uneven cut line.
e. The soft foam should be glued on to the hardboard (wherever
applicable). It should never be stapled or left free on the product.
G/6.1 Carton Box:
Follow specific carton boxes as per product pack instruction. Classic Polo has very
specific three sizes of cartons for Shirts (stand-up packing), Trouser (3-fold packing) &
roll packing for shirts & bottoms. Inner cartons are specified to contain one size set of
any specific style in the manufactured ratio.

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PACKING & DISPATCHING-2
CPQA-7.1: Carton Packing & Dispatch of Goods:
Product presentation is one of the most important reasons why a product is
purchased.
A/7.1 Carton Box Specifications:
The carton boxes have to be sturdy & strong (Specification: 90-120 gsm paper with
corrugated ply of 7 ply (outer cartons) & 5 ply (inner carton).
a. It should reach the final destination without major distortion or
creating any visible damage to the products inside the box.
b. Loss/damage of goods due to inferior quality carton boxes during
transport is accountable to the converter, unless the same has been
insured.
c. All inner carton box should have the products in assorted sizes as
given in the Job Order Sheet & packing instruction.
d. The ratio of the products should be always maintained.
e. Units within each carton are predetermined. Do not over stuffed into
one carton (both inner & outer) resulting in distortion of the product
when it arrives at the Warehouse.
f. The carton boxes have to be finally packaged with layer of packing
polythene & sealed at all corners.
B/7.1 Lot Packing/ Ratio Packing:
Neutral boxes & tapes to be used for inner cartons or lot packing. Inner carton has to
be marked with the article number & the size set of the ratio packing. Each ratio of
goods has to be in packed in separate inner carton or separated by a layer of
corrugated sheet to demarcated one assorted size group from the next.
C/7.1 Carton Box Markings:
The carton boxes used for dispatch of finished goods should be printed with the details
of brand with address. Placement of Carton Markings should be through:
a. Print on cartons
b. Printed sticker on cartons
All details must be corresponding to packing list. The contents on carton should be:
a. Box Number/
b. Style Number/
c. Color & Sizes/
d. Total Units/
e. Total Weight per Box/
f. AWB/LR No/
g. Origin of the Goods/
h. Destination of the Goods
D/7.1 Transportation of Finished Goods:

18 | P a g e
All finished & unfinished goods have to be dispatched through nominated transport (as
detailed to each converter) & should be door delivered. If on any circumstances the
goods are delivered by any other transport for whatsoever reason, it has to be assured
door delivery.
E/7.1 Dispatch Advice:
The dispatch of goods must contain the following information:
a. Copy of invoice with order no/
b. Copy of Airway Bill (AWB) No/
c. LR-No/Truck-No etc/
d. Total number of cartons/
e. Total units in numbers
F/7.1 Packing List:
The packing list must include the following information & must be sent with the
consignment / goods:
a. Style, Code & Color/
b. Summary of Style/
c. Size & Quantity/
d. Quantity of Boxes/
e. Total Pieces per each carton
G/7.1 Commercial Invoice:
The invoice must include the following information:
a. Order Number/
b. Article (Style, Quality, Color) in codes/
c. Quantity/
d. Per Unit Price/
e. Total Price/
f. Product Name/
g. Quantity of Box

19 | P a g e
CPQA-8.1: Protocol for Final Inspection
Final Inspection consists of inspecting finished garments from the consumers point of
view; size measurement; from fitting (putting garments on the proper-size
mannequins’ to see if they properly fit the labeled sizes); & live modeling if necessary
(again to see if the garments properly fit the labeled sizes). Final inspection may occur
before or after garments are packed in poly bags & boxes.
Final Inspection Quality Specifications for Men’s Dress Shirts
Location Inspect for
Collar 1. Both points same length (+1/8 in.). Stripes, Plaids, checks, or pattern
2. should match on both points. Uniformly stitched, no Puckering,
skipped or broken stitches or raw edges should lay flat.
Buttons &
buttonholes
3. Properly spaced, no puckering or fullness. Buttonholes properly
4. sewed, no cut stitches. No broken buttons. Located so stripes, plaids,
5. or patterns match (+1/8 in).
Pocket 6. Top of the pocket horizontal. Uniformly stitched, no Puckering,
skipped or broken stitches or raw edges. Corners securely tacked.
Stripes, plaids, checks or patterns should match (+ 1/8 in) should lay
flat.
Hems 7. Uniformly stitched, no puckering, skipped or broken Stitches or raw
edges. Stitching 1/16 in from edge.
Yoke &
shoulder
8. Pleats (if any) properly placed. Uniformly stitched, no Puckering,
skipped or broken stitches or raw edges. Should lay flat.
Side seams 9. Stripes, plaids, checks, or patterns should match (+ 1/8 In.) Uniformly
10. stitched, no puckering skipped or broken Stitches or raw edges.
Cuff 11. Stripes, plaids, checks, or patterns should match. The sleeve (+1/8 in).
12. Uniformly stitched, no puckering, skipped or broken stitches, or raw
edges.
Finished
appearance
13. Clean of all loose thread. No oil/dirt stains. Free of any Fabric defect.
14. No shade difference within a shirt from Part to part
15. (Panel to panel).
AQL (Acceptable Quality Level): The AQL is the maximum per cent defective that, for
the purposes of sampling inspection, can be considered satisfactory as a process
average. The AQL is generally expressed in per cent (%). The AQLs most widely used in
apparel industry are 2.5, 4.0, 6.5, & 10.0 depending on the price & item.

20 | P a g e
CPQA-9.1: Minimum Fabric Standards for Men’s Woven Fabrics:
Property Test Method
End Use
Jeans Casuals
Washed
Appearance
AATCC-124, IIB
(3 washes)
3.5 3.5
Crease
Retention
AATCC-88C,IIC
(3 washes)
4 4
Seam slippage ASTM D 434 35 lbs. 25 lbs.
Shrinkage
AATCC-135, IIB
(3 washes)
Appropriate Cycles
Pre-cured,
warp x fill
2%x2% 2% x 2%
Post-cured,
warp x fill
2%x2% 2% x 2%
Pressing &
Curing Washing
2%x2% 2% x 2%
Total (Press,
Cure & Wash)
3.5x3.5% 3.5% x 3.5%
Non-Permanent/
Press1
AATCC-96, IIE-3
(3 washes)
3%x3% 3% x 3%
Tear Strength
(Elmendorf)
ASTM D 1424 3.5 lbs. 3.0lbs.
Tensile Strength
(grab)
ASTM D 1682 60 lbs. 50 lbs.
Crockfastness2 AATCC-8
Dry 3-4 3-4
Wet 2-3 2-3
Color fastness to
Abrasion
AATCC-119
3-4 3-4
Colorfastness to
Sublimation
30 seconds,
dry contact heat
@ 3500F
3 3
Colorfastness to
Laundering
AATCC-61, IIA
Colorfastness to
Shade change
3-4 3-4
Colorfastness to
Staining
3-4 3-4
1. Non-permanent press fabrics tested for shrinkage in a home washing machine &
tumble dryer must be hand steam ironed sufficiently to restore to a wearable level of
smoothness before measuring shrinkage.
2. Crocking of dark colors & reds cannot be guaranteed because of limitations in the
current state of technology.

21 | P a g e
CPQA-10.1: Woven Fabrics Performance Specification
Test Description Specification Test Method
Fabric Weight ± 10% A-8
Construction Ends/Inch ± 5% Picks/Inch ± 5% A-7
Tensile Strength Warp (lbs.) 35.0 min Filling (lbs.) 35.0 min A-9
Tear Strength Warp (lbs.) 1.5 min Filling (lbs.) 1.5 min A-11
Flat Abrasion
(cycles)
300 min A-13
Resistance to
pilling @ 5000
Rubs
3.0 min A-14
Seam Strength lbs.) 20.0 min A-12
Dimensional
Stability (3-5
Laundering or
Dry-cleaning)
Length (%) 5.0 max Width (%) 3.0 max A-6
Appearance
Retention
Satisfactory
AATCC Test
Method 143
Smoothness of
Seams after
Repeated Home
Laundering
3.0 min. A-15
Color Fastness to
Light
(20 AFU)
4.0 min A-4
Accelerated
Washing/
Dry-cleaning
Shade 3.0 min Stain 3.0 min
AATCC Test
Method 61
Home Laundering Shade 3.0 min Stain 3.0 min A-6
Crocking Dry 3.0 min Wet 3.0 min A-2
Perspiration Shade 3.0 min Stain 3.0 min a-3
Chlorine Bleach 4.0 min
AATCC Test
Method 3
Non-chlorine
Bleach
4.0 min
AATCC Test
Method 172
Flammability Pass /Class 1 16 CFR

Apparel Standards & Quality Assurance / Wovens

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