Steps in Apparels industries to Quality control

1. Steps in Apparels Industries to Quality Control:
In the apparelsindustrieswe have maintainsomeproceduresforgarmentsmanufacturingfor
controllinggarmentsquality.That’swhywe have follow some procedurestepsbystepforavoiding
abnormalitiesinanystage.These are below:
1.1. Raw materialsInspection
1.2. In processinspection
1.3. Final Inspection
Raw Materials Inspection:Inanapparelsindustryraw materialsinspectionismostimportant
concept.To avoidanyabnormalitiesinbulkstage we cannotignore raw material inspection.We can
clarifythree types of rawmaterial inspection inthe apparelsindustry.
1. FabricInspection
2. SewingthreadInspection
3. Trimsand accessoriescheck
Fabric Inspection:Fabricinspectiondone throughfabricinspectionmachine. It’sveryimportant
everyapparelsindustries.Fabricinspectiondone throughpernick’sTiltmachine. Infabricinspection
there checksseveral thingsi.e.fabricproblem, knot,off shadeandshade variation,fabrichole,barre
effect,yowling,infabricinspectionalsocheckfabricstability,strength,colorandquantity.Tocheck
fabricinspectionthere are differentsystemi.e.fourpointsystem, tenpointsystemandDallas
System.
Sewing Thread Inspection: Duringstitchingfabricfrequentlybreakageof sewingthreadisone of
the great problemforgarmentsmanufacturing.Sothatitis necessarytocheckand testedforthe
followingcharacteristics:
 Threadconstruction
a. ThreadNumber
b. Threadply
c. Threadtenacity
d. Threadelongation
e. Numberof twistperunitlength(TPIor TPM)
 Sewability
 Color
 Imperfection
 Finishpackage
 Density
 Winding
 Yardage of sewingthread
Trims and accessories check: Trimsand accessoriescheck isveryimportantforgarmentsbecause
of itsaddedvalue withthe final product. TrimsandAccessoriesInspectionin apparel isrequiredto
ensure the use of rightqualitytrimsandaccessoriesforgettingqualitygarments,althoughTrimsand
Accessories are suppliedbythe thirdparty/buyer nominatedsupplier.Basically,garmentsmaker
checktrims qualityafterreceiving.If there isanyqualityissue,thentheycanclaimforcompensation
withinacertaindate of Trimsand Accessoriesin-house.If GMTS makerfailstoidentifydefectsin
theirinspection process, then they must have to carry liability. So Trims and accessories

2. quality plays a vital role in the apparel industry. Here given below accessories for inspection.
That’s is
a. Button: Button should be checked for the followings:
 Button holes should be large, clean, and free from flash, so that it will not cut
the thread.
 Check button strength
 Button holes should be located properly.
 Button thickness should be uniform.
 Button shade should be within tolerance.
 Button should be able to withstand laundering, dry cleaning, and pressing
without any change or deforms.
 Button size should be as specified.
 In case of any special requirements button should have all.
b. Zipper: Zipper should be checked for the followings
 Dimension: Tape width, tape extensions, and overall useable length of zipper
should be as specified.
 Top and bottom stoppers should be fastened securely.
 Zipper tape should be uniform in color. Zipper should not cause wrinkling and
puckering after sewn into garments.
 Puller or pull tab should be affixed firmly to the slider body.
 Slider should ride freely but must not be so free that it is loose on the chain.
 Slider should be locked securely.
 Zipper should be perfect and washing and/or dry cleaning and will not fade.
 Zipper should not deform under pressing and ironing.
c. Interlining
d. Tags
e. Label
Also need to check so that quality can be maintain according to required quality.
In-Process Inspection: In process inspection is most vital for garments manufacturing.
From the starting point of garment manufacturing up to garments ready to shipment, the
inspection done is called in process inspection. At least 65 to 80% faults can be checked and
controlled through in process inspection. Inspecting different parts of garments before
sewing are called in process inspection. Its start from marker making, then fabric spreading,
fabric cutting, fabric sewing, pressing or finishing checking is done in process.
 Marker making
 Fabric spreading
 Fabric cutting
 Fabric sorting

3.  Fabric sewing
 Seam defects
 Assembly defects
 Pressing / finishing defects.
Marker making: factors which must be checked
 It’s necessary to check all parts of garments pattern are in marker.
 In marker labeling/coding of pattern should be checked
 Pattern direction should be checked.
 The entire pattern are correctly seated.
 Pattern grain line is very important thing which must be considered during marker
making.
 During marker making every pattern pieces dimension should be accurate.
 During marker making fabric length and width should be considered.
 Marker width.
 Notches and drill mark knife clearance
 Check and stripe matching.
Marking Defects:
 Shaded Parts: All component parts not included in same section.
 Pieces not symmetrical: will not sewing together without puckering or pleating.
 Not marked by directional lines: bias will not lit together, causing twisting, puckering.
Pleating and a general mismatching of component parts.
 Skimpy marking: marker did not use outside perimeter of pattern. Pattern moved
after partially marked to fit into space.
 Notches and punch marks: left out, not clearly marked or misplaced.
 Marker too wide: Parts will not catch lay, Causing skimpy garments or requiring
results.
 Marker too narrow: result in wasted material
 Mismatched plaid: marker did not block components part to match.
 Misdirected napping: pattern not marked in same direction and napped fabrics.
Fabric Inspection/Spreading: factors which must be checked
 Fabric nature
 Ply alignment
 Ply tension
 Bowing
 Splicing
 Grain line
 Shade variation
 Selvedges alignment and tightness

4.  Fabric width
 Checks
 Static electricity.
Spreading Defects:
 Uneven spreading: front edge of lay is not even, resulting in front or back edge of
marker not catching all of ply.
 Narrow materials: bolts or rolls of material too narrow to cover marker width.
 Missed sectional breaks: sectional marker breaks too long or too short. Parts in lay
will be short or material wasted.
 Improper tension: cloth spread too tight or too loose, causing parts not to be fit in
sewing or distorting dimensions of garments.
 Mismatching plaid: material spread too tight or too loose causing plaid lines to run
diagonally or bow.
 Misdirected napping: air pocket not removed. Napped material reversed in
spreading.
 Improper matching of face of materials: Not spread face down, face up or face to
face as required.
Fabric Cutting: factors which must be checked
 Frayed edge
 Fuzzy, ragged and serrated edges
 Ply to ply fusion
 Single edge fusion
 Pattern precision
 Notches and drillers
 Cutting equipment precision.
Cutting defects:
 Marker or perforator: Not stapled on lay to catch both edges catching parts to
missing in cutting. Too tight or too loose, distorting dimensions of garments.
 Misplaced piece rate tickets: attached to, or mark on, wrong bundles, causing mixed
sizes or land shades.
 Drill marks: Drill marks misplaced, not perpendicular, omitted or wrong side drill
used.
 Opening slits: cut under above to the side or at incorrect angel. Not cut through
entire bundle or omitted.
 Improper Cutting: Not following marker lines, resulting in distorted parts. Letting
knife lean causing top and bottom ply to be of different sizes.
 Notches: Misplaced, too deep, too shallow or omitted.
 Oil spots: Equipment improperly oiled or cleaned.
 Improper knife sharpening: Causing ragged, frayed or fused edges on bundle.
 Knife or scissor cut: Piece damaged by over run in cutting previous pieces.

5. Bundle Inspection: it is necessary to check numbering, sorting, and bundling is done
accurately.
Defects:
 Bundle number not in order on rack skid or box.
 Wrong size or wrong material
Sewing inspection:
 most large and important section
 necessary to check all the machine operators work
 Some common faults and problems must be considered.
---Sewing defects
--- Seaming defects
---Assembly defects
---Pressing or finishing defects
---Folding defects.
---Sewing defects
 Needle Damage
 Skipped stc
 Thread breaks
 Seam pucker
 Wrong stitch density
 Uneven stc
 Staggered stc
 Improperly formed stc.
--- Seaming defects
 Uneven width
 Fault stitch line
 Back stc must be given properly
 Twisting
 Check or stripe matching
 Seam matching
 Wrong stc face and back side
 Thread color shade variation
---Assembly defects
 Finished component of not accurate size
 Garments not accurate in size
 If any design skip to join
 Component is not joining in right place

6.  If lining is tight or loose
 if parts direction is wrong
---Pressing or finishing defects
 fabric burn and burn spot attach with body
 Any types of water spot
 Color shading occurs because of hot ironing
 Button is insecure or broken
 Garments are folding non accurately
 Pocket is pressed smoothly and expect fold
 Garments shape is accurate
Stains, wrinkle, correct labels, anything that detracts from overall appearance.
---Folding defects
 Garments is not folded specification
 Garments not folded with proper material like cardboard, tissues or other material
 Inaccurate pins or folds
 Garments not buttoned
 Label not showing
Defect Zones:
 A- Zone---the defects of the garments which is visible when it is packed
 B-Zone---the defects of the garments which is visible when garments is open flat
 C-Zone---the defects which can be seen when the garment is turned.
A defect in ‘A’ zone is considered more serious than a defect in ‘B’ zone.
A defect in ‘B’ zone is considered more serious than a defect in ‘C’ zone.
Abdul Mabud
Quality Controller
K2 Logistics Bangladesh Limited
Cell: 01813-333038
E-mail: Mabud.k2logisticsbd@gmail.com