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STEP AHEAD

Presented By – Abhinay Gupta
AD - V
Preface
An industrial orientation was done on leather shoes in red chief. The presentation talks
about how a leather shoe is made right from scratch. It involves several processes which
cannot be determined when we take a glance at the shoes. There are several secondary
processes also like packaging, cleaning, etc. Shoe making is a very tedious task involving
an array of processes at each step which requires to be done perfectly in order to achieve
best results.
The presentation is an insight about its processes.
FMCG

Footwear

Wind Energy

LEAYAN GLOBAL PRIVATE LIMITED ( 1995)

Exports

Domestic

Red Chief (1997)

Real Estate

Dairy Products

 Rohit Surfactants private limited (RSPL)
Started in 1988
 Fast - moving consumer goods
RED CHIEF
Tannery & Manufacturing Units
1 Tannery in Unnao
2 Factories in Kanpur
1 Factory in Haridwar

Logo

E-commerce & store
36 Stores in
Uttar Pradesh
Madhya Pradesh

Deals in
Men's Footwear

Main colors, Leathers & Sole
colors – Elephant Tan Leathers – Nubuck Soles – PU
Black, Brown
Oily
PVC
Rust
TPR
Tobacco

Production
5000/ day
DERBY SHOE

OXFORD SHOE

SLIP-ON SHOE

MOCCAINS

HIGH ANKLE
SHOE

BOOTS
Tongue

Eyelet
Lining

Eyelet facing
Plug
Vamp

Collar

Heel Counter
outsole

Logo
Quarter
Sampling Department
 Only one side is made
Tin pattern of approved design
 Cutting is done manually
 Skiving
 Marking & attaching components
 Closing
 Lasting

When one odd pair is made. They send it to retail department for approval and if it is
approved then they make sample for all sizes in even pair
CUTTING DEPARTMENT
Swing arm machine
Also called clicking machine
Works on hydraulic system
Both hand operated
Poly propylene board
Cutting die
Less wastage ( marker planning)
For cutting leather components &
lining
Goat lining, B/C lining, B/C tek
lining
Travelling head machine
Works on hydraulic system
Operated with both hands
32mm or 52mm die is used
For cutting In-sole, toe puff, foam
In-sole ( leather board )
Toe puff or stiffener ( cellulose
rubber board thickness 1.2mm )
Padding foam 20mm, 5mm
Eva ( ethylene- vinyl acetate) foam
1.5mm, 4mm
Fabric cutting machine
Straight blade fabric cutting is
used
For cutting vamp cloth, mesh
fabric & sugar coated cloth
Cutting Die

A

A. Single Edge Die
B. Double Edge Die
Size
B

19 mm

For Goat Leather ,
Sheep Leather &
Lining

32 mm

For Thick Leathers

52 mm

For Foam
Skiving
Folding Skive
( 11-12 mm )
Raw Edge Skive
( 35 Degree & 2/3 Thickness)
Underlay Skive
( 08-10 mm )
Splitting & Fusing
Thickness is reduced
Whole leather skin

Sugar coated drill cloth
Sugar coated cloth
CLOSING DEPARTMENT
Marking

MarkingMarking
& Component
Attaching
Crayon marking
Color is selected according to
leather color
Marking pattern is made of PVC (
Polyvinyl chloride ) sheet

Neoprene ( dendrite ) & Latex
rubber solution a
Hand hammer
Stitching & Stiffener
Attaching
Flat bed double needle stitching
machine
Post bed stitching machine
Zigzag stitching machine
Threads
3PLY ( needle no- 14,16,18 )
6PLY ( needle no- 19-21 )
9PLY ( needle no- 21,22 )
12PLY( needle no- 24,25 )
HS31 ( needle no- 24 )
Stiffener inserting
Thread Burning &
Upper Quality Check
Upper Checking
Burn extra threads from upper
It’s a kind of blower
Upper quality is checked
They see stitch lines
LASTING DEPARTMENT
Counter Molding
Stiffener is inserted
Machine has aluminum last
Upper is fixed
2 pairs of pincers are just placed
below the mold
Forepart Lasting
Last is set on the machine
pincers engage and grip the entire
fore part of the upper
No creases at the feather edge.
Lasting allowances are flat to the
insole
Upper stucked to the insole firmly.
Proper position of vamp on the
last
Seat & Side Lasting
Hot melt cement is deposited on
the unlasted waist of the insole
Back height to be correct
Back seam is placed centrally,
upright and straight
Seat and quarter portions are
molded nicely
No crease at the feather edge.
Top line correctly balanced
Wrinkle Chasing
Wrinkle chasing is done through
electric heaters
Its is done for giving smooth
surface

Roughing or Scoring
 Steel wire wheel
 Brass wire wheel
 Scouring paper
Sole Attaching
PU ( polyurethane) adhesive is
used
Heat setting
Sole Pressing
Sole is pressed manually on the
last
Then they keep it in sole pressing
machine
After that they send it to cooling
chamber
Removing last &
Finishing
Finishing is done through buffing
machine
Crape is used to remove extra
adhesive & marking lines
Polishing
Packaging
Conclusion
After doing the industrial orientation I have understood the basics of shoe making. This
orientation really helped in terms of gaining knowledge and exposure.
I really enjoyed my work there and also learned as how relations are maintained in a
professional world.
I would like to thank my faculties and everyone else who helped me to do my orientation
succesfully.
red chief

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red chief

  • 1. STEP AHEAD Presented By – Abhinay Gupta AD - V
  • 2. Preface An industrial orientation was done on leather shoes in red chief. The presentation talks about how a leather shoe is made right from scratch. It involves several processes which cannot be determined when we take a glance at the shoes. There are several secondary processes also like packaging, cleaning, etc. Shoe making is a very tedious task involving an array of processes at each step which requires to be done perfectly in order to achieve best results. The presentation is an insight about its processes.
  • 3. FMCG Footwear Wind Energy LEAYAN GLOBAL PRIVATE LIMITED ( 1995) Exports Domestic Red Chief (1997) Real Estate Dairy Products  Rohit Surfactants private limited (RSPL) Started in 1988  Fast - moving consumer goods
  • 4. RED CHIEF Tannery & Manufacturing Units 1 Tannery in Unnao 2 Factories in Kanpur 1 Factory in Haridwar Logo E-commerce & store 36 Stores in Uttar Pradesh Madhya Pradesh Deals in Men's Footwear Main colors, Leathers & Sole colors – Elephant Tan Leathers – Nubuck Soles – PU Black, Brown Oily PVC Rust TPR Tobacco Production 5000/ day
  • 5. DERBY SHOE OXFORD SHOE SLIP-ON SHOE MOCCAINS HIGH ANKLE SHOE BOOTS
  • 7. Sampling Department  Only one side is made Tin pattern of approved design  Cutting is done manually  Skiving  Marking & attaching components  Closing  Lasting When one odd pair is made. They send it to retail department for approval and if it is approved then they make sample for all sizes in even pair
  • 9. Swing arm machine Also called clicking machine Works on hydraulic system Both hand operated Poly propylene board Cutting die Less wastage ( marker planning) For cutting leather components & lining Goat lining, B/C lining, B/C tek lining
  • 10. Travelling head machine Works on hydraulic system Operated with both hands 32mm or 52mm die is used For cutting In-sole, toe puff, foam In-sole ( leather board ) Toe puff or stiffener ( cellulose rubber board thickness 1.2mm ) Padding foam 20mm, 5mm Eva ( ethylene- vinyl acetate) foam 1.5mm, 4mm
  • 11. Fabric cutting machine Straight blade fabric cutting is used For cutting vamp cloth, mesh fabric & sugar coated cloth
  • 12. Cutting Die A A. Single Edge Die B. Double Edge Die Size B 19 mm For Goat Leather , Sheep Leather & Lining 32 mm For Thick Leathers 52 mm For Foam
  • 13. Skiving Folding Skive ( 11-12 mm ) Raw Edge Skive ( 35 Degree & 2/3 Thickness) Underlay Skive ( 08-10 mm )
  • 14. Splitting & Fusing Thickness is reduced Whole leather skin Sugar coated drill cloth Sugar coated cloth
  • 16. Marking MarkingMarking & Component Attaching Crayon marking Color is selected according to leather color Marking pattern is made of PVC ( Polyvinyl chloride ) sheet Neoprene ( dendrite ) & Latex rubber solution a Hand hammer
  • 17. Stitching & Stiffener Attaching Flat bed double needle stitching machine Post bed stitching machine Zigzag stitching machine Threads 3PLY ( needle no- 14,16,18 ) 6PLY ( needle no- 19-21 ) 9PLY ( needle no- 21,22 ) 12PLY( needle no- 24,25 ) HS31 ( needle no- 24 ) Stiffener inserting
  • 18. Thread Burning & Upper Quality Check Upper Checking Burn extra threads from upper It’s a kind of blower Upper quality is checked They see stitch lines
  • 20. Counter Molding Stiffener is inserted Machine has aluminum last Upper is fixed 2 pairs of pincers are just placed below the mold
  • 21. Forepart Lasting Last is set on the machine pincers engage and grip the entire fore part of the upper No creases at the feather edge. Lasting allowances are flat to the insole Upper stucked to the insole firmly. Proper position of vamp on the last
  • 22. Seat & Side Lasting Hot melt cement is deposited on the unlasted waist of the insole Back height to be correct Back seam is placed centrally, upright and straight Seat and quarter portions are molded nicely No crease at the feather edge. Top line correctly balanced
  • 23. Wrinkle Chasing Wrinkle chasing is done through electric heaters Its is done for giving smooth surface Roughing or Scoring  Steel wire wheel  Brass wire wheel  Scouring paper
  • 24. Sole Attaching PU ( polyurethane) adhesive is used Heat setting
  • 25. Sole Pressing Sole is pressed manually on the last Then they keep it in sole pressing machine After that they send it to cooling chamber
  • 26. Removing last & Finishing Finishing is done through buffing machine Crape is used to remove extra adhesive & marking lines Polishing Packaging
  • 27. Conclusion After doing the industrial orientation I have understood the basics of shoe making. This orientation really helped in terms of gaining knowledge and exposure. I really enjoyed my work there and also learned as how relations are maintained in a professional world. I would like to thank my faculties and everyone else who helped me to do my orientation succesfully.