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CREATING	
  AN	
  
    APPAREL	
  LINE	
  
MARKET ANALYSIS & TARGET MARKET
Term 1 / Product Development & Design / Robin Hall
BRAND	
  OVERVIEW	
  
•   Karen Walker started in 1988 with
    $80. She made one shirt and sold it
    on consignment. 
•   She now shows at New York Fashion
    Week and London Fashion Week and
    is stocked in over 350 stores in cities
    including New York, London, Paris,
    Los Angeles, Sydney and Tokyo.
•   There are five Karen Walker flagship
    stores in New Zealand and one flag
    ship store in Taipei.
 •   Karen Walker also has a Jewellery
     line, Eyewear line, KW Paints and
     also a diffusion line, Hi There, sold
     exclusively through Myer.
 •   Karen has dressed Björk, Sienna
     Miller, Jennifer Lopez, Claire Danes,
     Cate Blanchett and Liv Tyler.
MARKET	
  ANALYSIS	
  
Identify and document long-term
    and shor t-term social and
     economic trends that are
  relevant to your target market,
 and explain how they influence
  apparel purchasing behaviour.
SHORT	
  TERM	
  
     ECONOMIC	
  TRENDS	
  
•     Consumer confidence in Australia is still
      low and there’s more saving and less
      spending.
•     Significant portion of fashion spending
      is going offshore. Consumers want
      access to a greater product range and
      fashion-forward pieces. Australian
       retailers need to not just serve the
       Australian market but expand to new
       markets via online sales.
 •     Zara opening in Australia with no
       competition. The Australian market is
       devoid of giants such as H&M and
       Uniqlo, so Zara has its own niche. This
       will effect retailers such as Sportsgirl
        and Witchery.
 •      Strong Aussie dollar has halved the
        number of international delegates to
        RAFW (110 international buyers and
        retailers down from 200 last year.)
        Designers are counting on buyers from
        Asia, Europe and the UK.
LONG-­‐TERM	
  
 ECONOMIC	
  TRENDS	
  
•  Continuing strong dollar (On the
   other hand if our relationship is
   not maintained China may start
   to look elsewhere (to Africa and
   Latin America) as a different
   source for commodities.)
•  Global Textile industry affected
   by a price on carbon – will
   garment manufacturing cost
   grow?
•  Consumers will expect more
    from local brands and expect
    them to live up to global brands
•  Consumer confidence grows in
    Australia more spending less
    saving
SHORT	
  TERM	
  
     SOCIAL	
  TRENDS	
  
•  With the death of Osama bin
   Laden and the eventual
   withdrawal of the US from
   Afghanistan, fashion will
   gradually become less
   somber and conservative and
   more joyful and experimental.
•  Brit-fever as William and Kate
   marry and London hosts the
   2012 Olympics.
•  Boardwalk Empire hits Aussie
   screens – think drop waists
   and embellishment again.
LONG-­‐TERM	
  
      SOCIAL	
  TRENDS	
  
•     Consumers will increasingly (and
      automatically) receive targeted ratings,
      recommendations and reviews from
      their social networks.
•     Shopping will become increasingly
      social, even when consumers and their
      peers are not physically together
•     The cult of the individual. As social
      media usage increases so do blogs and
      fashion galleries like The Sartorialist
       and Lookbook.nu. People value unique
       garments and being ‘individuals.’
 •     Custom-made becomes big. Bike by Me
       allows you to choose the colour of every
       part of your bicycle and Trikoton allows
       you to buy clothes that reflect the sound
       of your voice - a computer turns your
       speech patterns into knitting patterns.
 •     A return to eco and natural fibres, and
       hand-made techniques
MARKET	
  ANALYSIS	
  
   Identify and analyse three
competitors for your apparel line.
  Describe their strengths and
   weaknesses and how your
    apparel line will create a
     competitive advantage.
SHAKUHACHI	
  
    www.shakuhachi.net.au	
  

STRENGTHS
•  Collections are always
   youthful and fun
•  Great fabrics
•  Physical stores in Sydney and
   Bali
•  Online shopping


WEAKNESSES
•  Prices are cheaper on other
   sites
•  No social media marketing
•  Online store technology quite
   dated
PIXIE	
  MARKET	
  
     www.pixiemarket.com	
  

STRENGTHS
•  Multi-label so more variety
•  Really strong social media
   marketing
•  Great fabrics
•  $15 international shipping
•  No physical store, so low
   overheads

WEAKNESSES
•  Mostly only available in sizes
   under Aussie 10
•  Not a ‘happy’ brand
•  Small volumes, so quite
   pricey
MODCLOTH	
  
      www.modcloth.com	
  

STRENGTHS
•  New products added daily
•  Multi-label so more variety
•  Sell homewares as well
•  No physical store, so low
   overheads

WEAKNESSES
•  As they’ve grown bigger the
   fabrics used have decreased in
   quality
•  Doesn’t appear very exclusive –
   brand is a bit ‘cute’ – not great
   for Aussie market
•  No flat-rate international
   shipping
MY	
  BRAND	
  
STRENGTHS
•  There aren’t a lot of Aussie
    online stores doing eCommerce
    well.
•  Intend to market to a worldwide
    audience, not just Australia.
•  Have eCommerce, advertising
    and Social Media marketing
    background
 •  Inhouse fabric design
 •  Want to work with only natural
    fibres (silk, cotton, linen,
    leather, wool)
 •  Want to release two main and
     12 mini-collections per year to
     keep website fresh and current.
TARGET	
  MARKET	
  
Describe the target market in
    terms of geographic/
demographic/behavioural and
psychographic characteristics.
GEOGRAPHICS	
  
•  Live in Australia
•  Live in big cities
•  Live in urban areas
•  Have seasonal weather
DEMOGRAPHICS	
  
•    25-34 years old
•    In a relationship
•    Have a Bachelor’s and Post-
     Grad degree
•    Make less than $50,000
•    They are professionals
•    They work in an office
PSYCHOGRAPHICS	
  
•  Middle class
•  They somewhat/
   subconsciously care about
   fashion trends
•  They identify as ‘individuals’
   and do not belong to a
   fashion tribe/pack
•  Identify as urban and edgy
BEHAVIORAL	
  
•  Spend under $100 a fortnight
   on clothing
•  They value how garments
   flatter their bodies,
   individuality/uniqueness of
   garment and bargains
•  Willing to pay more for
   individuality/uniqueness of
   garment, natural fabrics (silk,
   linen, cotton, wool, leather)
    and tailoring
THEIR	
  STYLE	
  
•   Eclectic and urban
•  Rate Audrey Hepburn, Kate
    Moss and Chloë Sevigny as
    top style icons
•  Prefer neutral colours (blacks,
    greys, beiges, khakis) and
    jewel colours (amethyst
    purple, ruby red, emerald
    green, sapphire blue)
 •  They like colour blocking and
     classic prints (houndstooth,
     spots, stripes)
THEIR	
  SHOPPING	
  
         HABITS	
  
•  They shop online often – at
   least once a month
•  Favourite online stores are
   Etsy, Ebay + Urban Outfitters
•  Most they’ve paid for a
   garment (excluding shoes/
   handbags) is $100-$300
FASHION	
  TRENDS	
  
   ANALYSIS	
  
  Identify and analyse current
 fashion trends for your target
market. Describe the direction in
which these trends are headed,
drawing on principles of fashion
     and theory of fashion.
OVERALL	
  TRENDS	
  
•    Nautical
•    Preppy
•    Military
•    Stripes
•    70s Pucci/DVF influence (flares,
     prints becoming brighter)
•    Subtle 80s does 40s influence
•    Textures (lace, leather, fur)
•    Muted organic prints


           COLOURS	
  
•  Magenta and red
•  Dull plum/dark lavendar
•  Neutrals (khaki, beige)
•  Naturals (rust, ochres,
   mustard)
KW’s	
  MAIN	
  
      COLLECTION	
  
•  Mod and 60s
•  Feminine/romantic
•  Vintage-feel
•  Beach Boys beach party


     KW’s	
  HI-­‐THERE	
  
•  Much more ‘on trend’
•  Nautical/Sailor
•  1940s dresses
•  Stripes
•  Muted organic abstract prints
MILITARY	
  
•     On the decline (especially
      with death of bin Laden). To
      be replaced with androgynous
      or dominatrix look.

     NAUTICAL/PREPPY	
  
•     This look is classic and the
      Australian market is
      conservative so I think this is
      here to stay. The shapes might
      become more 40s-inspired.

             STRIPES	
  
•     Stripes are on the decline (they
      are in discount and low-end
      stores).
      A/W 2011/12 showed a lot of
      spots and circles.
TEXTURE	
  
•    Here to stay – especially as
     Winter is approaching. Leather,
     fur, sequins, beading were in
     much evidence at A/W 2011.
     Everything – all at once!

 MUTED	
  ORGANIC	
  PRINTS	
  
 On the decline – bold prints are
 back. Dots, baroque, bright loud
  floral, feathers and lions and
     tigers and bears, oh my.

     WHAT	
  DECADE	
  IS	
  	
  
       IT	
  AGAIN?	
  
•    The state of the world has put
     us all in a nostalgic mood. Take
     your pick from the Sixties,
     Seventies or the Forties.
BIBLIOGRAPHY	
  
Trendwatching	
  
May 2001 Update
www.trendwatching.com
	
  
The	
  Conversation
Zara’s Australian Entrance to Challenge Local Retailers
www.theconversation.edu.au
	
  
Fashion	
  Allure
Spring Summer 2011 Trend Must Haves
www.fashion-allure.com
	
  
The	
  Economist
The status seekers, Global stretch: When will Zara hit its limits?, I've got you labelled
www.economist.com
	
  
Vogue
A-Z Trend Report
www.vogue.com.au
	
  
Creative3	
  
When you are in a creative world, inspiration can come from everywhere
www. creative3.com.au
	
  
Karen	
  Walker
www.karenwalker.com

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Creating an Apparel Line

  • 1. CREATING  AN   APPAREL  LINE   MARKET ANALYSIS & TARGET MARKET Term 1 / Product Development & Design / Robin Hall
  • 2. BRAND  OVERVIEW   •  Karen Walker started in 1988 with $80. She made one shirt and sold it on consignment.  •  She now shows at New York Fashion Week and London Fashion Week and is stocked in over 350 stores in cities including New York, London, Paris, Los Angeles, Sydney and Tokyo. •  There are five Karen Walker flagship stores in New Zealand and one flag ship store in Taipei. •  Karen Walker also has a Jewellery line, Eyewear line, KW Paints and also a diffusion line, Hi There, sold exclusively through Myer. •  Karen has dressed Björk, Sienna Miller, Jennifer Lopez, Claire Danes, Cate Blanchett and Liv Tyler.
  • 3. MARKET  ANALYSIS   Identify and document long-term and shor t-term social and economic trends that are relevant to your target market, and explain how they influence apparel purchasing behaviour.
  • 4. SHORT  TERM   ECONOMIC  TRENDS   •  Consumer confidence in Australia is still low and there’s more saving and less spending. •  Significant portion of fashion spending is going offshore. Consumers want access to a greater product range and fashion-forward pieces. Australian retailers need to not just serve the Australian market but expand to new markets via online sales. •  Zara opening in Australia with no competition. The Australian market is devoid of giants such as H&M and Uniqlo, so Zara has its own niche. This will effect retailers such as Sportsgirl and Witchery. •  Strong Aussie dollar has halved the number of international delegates to RAFW (110 international buyers and retailers down from 200 last year.) Designers are counting on buyers from Asia, Europe and the UK.
  • 5. LONG-­‐TERM   ECONOMIC  TRENDS   •  Continuing strong dollar (On the other hand if our relationship is not maintained China may start to look elsewhere (to Africa and Latin America) as a different source for commodities.) •  Global Textile industry affected by a price on carbon – will garment manufacturing cost grow? •  Consumers will expect more from local brands and expect them to live up to global brands •  Consumer confidence grows in Australia more spending less saving
  • 6. SHORT  TERM   SOCIAL  TRENDS   •  With the death of Osama bin Laden and the eventual withdrawal of the US from Afghanistan, fashion will gradually become less somber and conservative and more joyful and experimental. •  Brit-fever as William and Kate marry and London hosts the 2012 Olympics. •  Boardwalk Empire hits Aussie screens – think drop waists and embellishment again.
  • 7. LONG-­‐TERM   SOCIAL  TRENDS   •  Consumers will increasingly (and automatically) receive targeted ratings, recommendations and reviews from their social networks. •  Shopping will become increasingly social, even when consumers and their peers are not physically together •  The cult of the individual. As social media usage increases so do blogs and fashion galleries like The Sartorialist and Lookbook.nu. People value unique garments and being ‘individuals.’ •  Custom-made becomes big. Bike by Me allows you to choose the colour of every part of your bicycle and Trikoton allows you to buy clothes that reflect the sound of your voice - a computer turns your speech patterns into knitting patterns. •  A return to eco and natural fibres, and hand-made techniques
  • 8. MARKET  ANALYSIS   Identify and analyse three competitors for your apparel line. Describe their strengths and weaknesses and how your apparel line will create a competitive advantage.
  • 9. SHAKUHACHI   www.shakuhachi.net.au   STRENGTHS •  Collections are always youthful and fun •  Great fabrics •  Physical stores in Sydney and Bali •  Online shopping WEAKNESSES •  Prices are cheaper on other sites •  No social media marketing •  Online store technology quite dated
  • 10. PIXIE  MARKET   www.pixiemarket.com   STRENGTHS •  Multi-label so more variety •  Really strong social media marketing •  Great fabrics •  $15 international shipping •  No physical store, so low overheads WEAKNESSES •  Mostly only available in sizes under Aussie 10 •  Not a ‘happy’ brand •  Small volumes, so quite pricey
  • 11. MODCLOTH   www.modcloth.com   STRENGTHS •  New products added daily •  Multi-label so more variety •  Sell homewares as well •  No physical store, so low overheads WEAKNESSES •  As they’ve grown bigger the fabrics used have decreased in quality •  Doesn’t appear very exclusive – brand is a bit ‘cute’ – not great for Aussie market •  No flat-rate international shipping
  • 12. MY  BRAND   STRENGTHS •  There aren’t a lot of Aussie online stores doing eCommerce well. •  Intend to market to a worldwide audience, not just Australia. •  Have eCommerce, advertising and Social Media marketing background •  Inhouse fabric design •  Want to work with only natural fibres (silk, cotton, linen, leather, wool) •  Want to release two main and 12 mini-collections per year to keep website fresh and current.
  • 13. TARGET  MARKET   Describe the target market in terms of geographic/ demographic/behavioural and psychographic characteristics.
  • 14. GEOGRAPHICS   •  Live in Australia •  Live in big cities •  Live in urban areas •  Have seasonal weather
  • 15. DEMOGRAPHICS   •  25-34 years old •  In a relationship •  Have a Bachelor’s and Post- Grad degree •  Make less than $50,000 •  They are professionals •  They work in an office
  • 16. PSYCHOGRAPHICS   •  Middle class •  They somewhat/ subconsciously care about fashion trends •  They identify as ‘individuals’ and do not belong to a fashion tribe/pack •  Identify as urban and edgy
  • 17. BEHAVIORAL   •  Spend under $100 a fortnight on clothing •  They value how garments flatter their bodies, individuality/uniqueness of garment and bargains •  Willing to pay more for individuality/uniqueness of garment, natural fabrics (silk, linen, cotton, wool, leather) and tailoring
  • 18. THEIR  STYLE   •  Eclectic and urban •  Rate Audrey Hepburn, Kate Moss and Chloë Sevigny as top style icons •  Prefer neutral colours (blacks, greys, beiges, khakis) and jewel colours (amethyst purple, ruby red, emerald green, sapphire blue) •  They like colour blocking and classic prints (houndstooth, spots, stripes)
  • 19. THEIR  SHOPPING   HABITS   •  They shop online often – at least once a month •  Favourite online stores are Etsy, Ebay + Urban Outfitters •  Most they’ve paid for a garment (excluding shoes/ handbags) is $100-$300
  • 20. FASHION  TRENDS   ANALYSIS   Identify and analyse current fashion trends for your target market. Describe the direction in which these trends are headed, drawing on principles of fashion and theory of fashion.
  • 21. OVERALL  TRENDS   •  Nautical •  Preppy •  Military •  Stripes •  70s Pucci/DVF influence (flares, prints becoming brighter) •  Subtle 80s does 40s influence •  Textures (lace, leather, fur) •  Muted organic prints COLOURS   •  Magenta and red •  Dull plum/dark lavendar •  Neutrals (khaki, beige) •  Naturals (rust, ochres, mustard)
  • 22. KW’s  MAIN   COLLECTION   •  Mod and 60s •  Feminine/romantic •  Vintage-feel •  Beach Boys beach party KW’s  HI-­‐THERE   •  Much more ‘on trend’ •  Nautical/Sailor •  1940s dresses •  Stripes •  Muted organic abstract prints
  • 23. MILITARY   •  On the decline (especially with death of bin Laden). To be replaced with androgynous or dominatrix look. NAUTICAL/PREPPY   •  This look is classic and the Australian market is conservative so I think this is here to stay. The shapes might become more 40s-inspired. STRIPES   •  Stripes are on the decline (they are in discount and low-end stores). A/W 2011/12 showed a lot of spots and circles.
  • 24. TEXTURE   •  Here to stay – especially as Winter is approaching. Leather, fur, sequins, beading were in much evidence at A/W 2011. Everything – all at once! MUTED  ORGANIC  PRINTS   On the decline – bold prints are back. Dots, baroque, bright loud floral, feathers and lions and tigers and bears, oh my. WHAT  DECADE  IS     IT  AGAIN?   •  The state of the world has put us all in a nostalgic mood. Take your pick from the Sixties, Seventies or the Forties.
  • 25. BIBLIOGRAPHY   Trendwatching   May 2001 Update www.trendwatching.com   The  Conversation Zara’s Australian Entrance to Challenge Local Retailers www.theconversation.edu.au   Fashion  Allure Spring Summer 2011 Trend Must Haves www.fashion-allure.com   The  Economist The status seekers, Global stretch: When will Zara hit its limits?, I've got you labelled www.economist.com   Vogue A-Z Trend Report www.vogue.com.au   Creative3   When you are in a creative world, inspiration can come from everywhere www. creative3.com.au   Karen  Walker www.karenwalker.com