The magazine covers the following topics:
1) The new Phuket in Thailand which has rebounded strongly 10 years after being devastated by the 2004 tsunami.
2) New England's history with whaling and how people still flock there to see whales.
3) A journey along the Nile River through Sudan with explorer Levison Wood.
1. THE MAGAZINE OF ETIHAD AIRWAYS OCTOBER 2014
ISLAND
EVOLUTION
THE NEW PHUKET
TIME OF
THE WHALES
NEW ENGLANDâS HUNTING HISTORY
WALKING
THE NILE
A JOURNEY THROUGH SUDAN
2.
3.
4. - Hollywood, Los Angeles -
Piaget Limelight Gala,
White gold watch set with diamonds.
piaget.com
PIAGET BOUTIQUES: Abu Dhabi: Avenue at Etihad Towers, 02 667 0044
Dubai: The Dubai Mall, 04 339 8222, Mall of the Emirates, 04 347 6336
Dubai: Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, Atlantis 04 422 0233, Burj Al Arab, 04 348 9000
Burjuman Centre, 04 355 9090
Abu Dhabi: Al Manara International Jewellery, St. Regis Hotel, 02 6673535
The Galleria Sowwah, 02 6743444
5. PCEOâS WELCOME
7
MOUNT KILIMANJARO, TANZANIA
Etihad Airways has never been an airline that conforms to convention. Itâs just not our way.
Instead, we constantly strive to introduce impressive products and
services to make Etihad Airways the undisputed leader in modern air
travel. Youâll find many examples of this in our short but groundbreaking
11 years of operations â from our Inflight Chefs and Flying Nannies to
the soon-to-be-introduced Residence suite with its own Butler on our
new A380 aircraft from December.
Our latest example is something that you will not fail to notice as
our planes fly to all six continents of the world: a bold new livery for
our aircraft.
This striking new design will fly us into the future, and quite frankly
there is simply nothing else like it in the world. The exciting new design
is inspired by traditional Emirati design patterns to reflect our strong
and proud Arabian heritage in a fresh and modern way. It echoes the
landscapes and hues of our homeland as well as the geometric shapes
found in the modern architecture of Abu Dhabi. Youâll also see the UAE
national emblem and the national flag prominently positioned along
the fuselage next to the Etihad Airways name.
We very much hope you like the new design, which is unmistakably
unique and will gradually appear on all our aircraft in due course.
Finally, I am delighted to tell you about a further three new Etihad
Airways routes for 2015 â Baku, Tbilisi, and Dar es Salaam. These
destinations join six other services previously announced for 2015
â Kolkata in February, Madrid in March, Entebbe in May, and Algiers,
Edinburgh and Hong Kong in June.
A four-times-a-week service to Baku, the capital of Azerbaijan, and
a three-times-a-week service to Tbilisi, the capital of Georgia, will
begin in October. Both cities are famed for their warm hospitality and
natural beauty, offering a range of botanic gardens and parks, as well
as historic attractions, museums and galleries. I know they will become
popular additions to our network.
Baku and Tbilisi will be followed by daily flights to Dar es Salaam
in Tanzania in December, our 11th destination in Africa and one of
East Africaâs most important centres with tourist attractions including
Mount Kilimanjaro.
These new routes build upon the extensive network development
which has occurred in 2014 with the launch of seven new routes
to Jaipur, Los Angeles, Medina, Perth, Rome, Yerevan, and Zurich. We are
not finished yet, as new flights to Phuket in Thailand start this month,
followed by the US cities of San Francisco in November and Dallas
in December.
From our unique new aircraft livery to a constant focus on giving you
the best new world-class destinations, itâs all proof that Etihad Airways
really is a special new force in modern global aviation.
Thank you for flying with Etihad Airways. We hope you enjoyed your flight
with us today, and look forward to welcoming you on board one of our
aircraft again soon.
JAMES HOGAN,
PRESIDENT AND CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER ETIHAD AIRWAYS
Dear Guest, welcome on board!
6. CONTENTS
56
46
58
FEATURES
43 64
43
Abu Dhabi Developing film
The Abu Dhabi Film Festival returns this month, bringing with it a number
of firsts, showcasing everything from pet projects to silver screen classics
to multi-million dollar Disney spectacles.
46
Cover Story The phoenix from the waves
Ten years on from the devastating tsunami Phuket has never been
busier â or more ready to host guests seeking luxury.
53
Gourmet Careful with the knives
Dining in working prisons is the latest foodie fad to hit London â but hereâs
why itâs more than just an arresting lunch.
56
Sport To the Max
Hollandâs Max Verstappen is set to become the youngest-ever F1 driver
next season at just 17 years old. We assess the precocious talent.
58
Wide Angle Nomadâs land
Levison Wood recently finished walking the length of the River Nile â a
journey from its source in Rwanda to its delta in Egypt. Here, Ashwin
Bhardwaj recounts joining Wood for the Sudan leg of this epic expedition.
64
Culture Finding leviathan
Formerly the world capital of whaling, New Englandâs fortunes rose
with the industry. Today people still flock there in pursuit of
something magnificent
66
Escape Hotel California
British television personality Dom Joly is used to being recognised at home,
but a stay at the Chateau Marmont left him quite star struck.
7. THE WHOLE WORLD TO THE NEAREST MINUTE.
DuomĂštre Unique Travel Time. Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 383.
Paris, New York, Tokyo, New Delhi⊠Swiss precision around the globe. The
DuomĂštre Unique Travel Time is the world-time watch offering dual-time
adjustment to the nearest minute. A feat made possible by the patented
Dual-Wing movement. With 180 skills united under one roof, the Manufacture
Jaeger-LeCoultre consistently contributes to driving advances in the field of
Fine Watchmaking.
MAJOR PARTNER OF
Jaeger-LeCoultre Boutiques:
The Dubai Mall +971 4 339 8769
Abu Dhabi Marina Mall +971 2 658 0004
Avenue at Etihad Towers +971 2 681 2834
Find your nearest point of sale at www.jaeger-lecoultre.com
YOU DESERVE A REAL WATCH.
12. Î ? ; D 5 ; 7 4 ; F K 4 6 @ F 6 D Î Îź
2 E A 2H2 ; 2 3 6 2F 8 2 6 D ; 6 E 2 72K 6 F F 6
Î Fd?;Í;@4
DESIGNED IN AMERICA
FOR GLOBAL CITIZENS
13.
14. YOUR WORLD SNAPSHOT
YOUR
WORLD
UNESCO has officially designated
Botswanaâs unique Okavango Delta
its 1,000th World Heritage Site. Find out
more on page 18.
20 Driven
Is the Golf R worth the extra spend
over the already legendary GTI?
22 Room with a View
Explore one of Londonâs most iconic
hotels, The Savoy.
26 Transit Lounge
Etihad Airways Brand Ambassador
Shane Warne chats to us about his
favourite places.
IMAGE: Shutterstock.com
15. YOUR WORLD // LOCAL COLOUR
PILGRIMS PROGRESS
One of Egyptâs most important moulids [religious festivals], the Moulid of Sayyed Ahmed al-
Badawi, will transform Tanta in the Nile Delta â around 90 kilometres from Cairo â towards the
middle of this month. The eight-day festival honours a Moroccan Sufi who fought the Crusaders
in the 13th century. Up to three million pilgrims make their way to Tanta from across the Arab
world to pay their respects in the cityâs richly ornamented, triple-domed mosque, which holds
al-Badawiâs tomb. Thousands sleep either inside or around this building during the festivities as a
mark of respect. Expect chanting and ritual songs, boisterous parades and rolling drums, snake
charmers, shisha [water pipes], hubb el Azziz [sugared nut snacks], and vendors selling tartours
[cone-shaped hats]. The chaotic religious fervour includes Sufizikr ceremonies, where participants
chant and clap their way into a trance, in an attempt to achieve unity with God.
HTTP://EN.EGYPT.TRAVEL
14
STAMPEDE TO SYDNEY
The Stampede is charging around Australia bringing complex obstacles and convoluted
courses in a fundraising challenge that will test the hardiest of souls. This month sees
Sydney on the blocks on 18 October. Participants will run wild through an epic 5km or 10km
obstacle course focused on fun that pushes each partaker to the limit â from inching their
way through thick mud, climbing cargo nets, speeding down the mega slip-and-slide and
dashing through live wires charged with 10,000 volts. Itâs challenging, rewarding and fun for
all fitness levels, with the junior stampede catering for mini contestants aged five-11 years.
The youngsters confront a 2km course with 10 kid-friendly obstacles. In addition, the Sydney
Stampede is offering something new this year â for participants to buddy up and tackle the
course together, attached with specially designed bungee belts.
WWW.THESTAMPEDE.COM.AU
GLOBAL
GO
COWBOY CHEFS
Every year, during the second full weekend in
October â this year, 9-12 October â Ruidoso
Downs in the American state of New Mexico
plays host to what may be the nationâs finest
cowboy festival. Held at the Ruidoso Downs
Race Track, the Lincoln County Cowboy
Symposium sees old west storytellers,
noted historians, poets, musicians, western
artists, craftsmen, and a whole lot of
cowboys ride into town for four days. The
events include cowboy competitions, horse
demonstrations, western swing dancing,
a kidsâ rodeo, and lots of country and
western music. The highlight is the World
Championship Chuckwagon Competition,
with prizes totalling US$13,000. This is not
the standard chuckwagon race â instead it
is a cook-off, where competitors are judged
on their mouth-watering food, and on the
authenticity of their wagons and attire.
Theyâll have to cook up a storm to feed the
20,000 visitors gathering to celebrate all
things western.
WWW.COWBOYSYMPOSIUM.ORG
16. LOCAL COLOUR // YOUR WORLD
15
WHITE NIGHTS
In 2006, one fine night in September, Toronto in Canada kept its eyes open from dusk until the
early pre-dawn hours. The city buzzed with excitement as Scotiabank Nuit Blanche was unleashed
on an unsuspecting city, the all-night exploration and celebration of contemporary art keeping
slumber at bay. Since then, one night a year is dedicated to this multi-location artistic endeavour,
which sees art grace the streets, parks and all manner of venue across the city. Toronto wonât be
sleeping this year on 4 October, with the free art event kicking off at 6:53pm and flowing through
to sunrise. Hundreds of artists are involved in creating more than 125 art projects. Some works
encourage an intimate encounter with art, others wow with large-scale spectacle. The curated
projects this year include Between the earth and the sky, the possibility of everything; The Night
Circus; and Performance Anxiety, but youâll find surprises around every corner.
WWW.SCOTIABANKNUITBLANCHE.CA
TRUFFLE TIME
The Alba White Truffle Festival kicks off on 11
October, running every weekend through to
mid-November, and is the highlight of the white
truffle season in Italy. The Piedmont region,
where Alba is located, is considered to produce
the best white truffles in the world. As such,
visitors travel from far and wide to take part in
the White Truffle Festival in Albaâs central square,
the epicentre of the truffle-globe. The festival
features not only the tasty fungus, but also arts
and cultural events and spectacles that revolve
around the celebration. One of the non-culinary
highlights is the donkey race, held on the first
weekend of the festivities. Heralded by a lavish
medieval procession and theatrical pageantry
re-enacting key moments of Albaâs history, the
race is a comedy of errors, with the stubborn
beasts refusing to run, or cantering off wilfully
in the wrong direction, their desperate jockeys
trying to urge them over the finish line.
WWW.FIERADELTARTUFO.ORG
IMAGES: Getty Images, Active Event Entertainment, Getty Editorial Shutterstock.com
PERISCOPE
October brings a host of cultural
celebrations, from symphonies to literature.
Cultivate your sophisticated side with some
of this monthâs refined events.
AUSTRALIA: THE SOUND OF ORPHEUS
This production presented by Orpheus and
the Australian Festival of Chamber from 3-6
October sees one of the worldâs finest string
quartets â the prestigious Goldner String
Quartet â in the exquisite tropical setting of
Orpheus, a secluded island hideaway set in
the heart of the Great Barrier Reef.
WWW.AFCM.COM.AU
ENGLAND: BFI LONDON FILM FESTIVAL
The London Film Festival is the UKâs largest
public film event, screening more than
300 features, documentaries and shorts
from almost 50 countries. The festival
showcases the best of world cinema to
champion creativity, originality, vision
and imagination.
WWW.BFI.ORG.UK
FRANCE: ATLANTIQUE JAZZ FESTIVAL
Jazz brings the tip of Brittany to life from
2-19 October, with some 30 concerts in
12 towns from Langonnet to Guilvinec.
Expect creativity throughout a month full
of experimental sounds, culminating in a
grand finale in Brest.
WWW.PENN-AR-JAZZ.COM
GERMANY: FRANKFURT BOOK FAIR
The Frankfurt Book Fair, held on 8-12
October, is the largest international book
fair in the world, receiving visitors and book
dealers from over 100 countries. Johannes
Gutenberg invented the printing press just
outside Frankfurt and the first fair was held
by local publishers shortly afterwards.
WWW.FRANKFURT-BOOK-FAIR.COM/EN/FBF
TURKEY: ANTALYA GOLDEN ORANGE
FILM FESTIVAL
The Golden Orange Film Festival, running
from 8-14 October begins with a bang as a
parade goes through the streets of Antalya.
This festival is a great introduction to some
of the finest performers in the Turkish
movie industry.
WWW.ANTALYA.ORG
Artist Ai Weiwei mounts a labyrinth of 3,144
interconnected bicycles in his project Forever
Bicycles at Scotiabank Nuit Blanche 2013
in Toronto, Canada.
17. TRAVELLING IN STYLE
Globe-Trotter has been around since 1897, although the company relocated
from Germany to England in 1932, where it has remained. Every suitcase
produced by the luxury travel brand is handmade in the UK on original
Victorian machinery. The cases are constructed from vulcanised fibreboard,
composed of 14 layers of specially bonded paper, with the corners, handles
and straps crafted from leather. Donât miss the recently launched Voyage
collection, which is handcrafted in sumptuous purple, comp lemented with rich
burgundy leather trim and brass hardware. This is the first time Globe-Trotter
has released a purple edition, which also celebrates the 10-year anniversary of
the companyâs first limited edition featuring a Liberty-print lining. Opening the
Voyager case reveals the exquisite Hera peacock feather print, which originally
debuted in the 1890s as a furnishing fabric.
WWW.GLOBETROTTER1897.COM
YOUR WORLD // FASHION
16
IMAGES: GLOBE-TROTTER, KALIGARH MOSCHINO
DRAPED IN CHOCOLATE
Creative director Jeremy Scottâs debut Autumn/Winter 2014-
15 collection for Moschino features his Fast Fashion selection
of styles, which combines food, couture, irony, joy and
glamour, all in one witty blend. This playful collection presents
RTW and accessories inspired by fast-food, cartoons and the
fun characters who enliven packaging of chocolate bars,
candies, popcorn and cereal boxes. The colourful, irreverent
pieces â which include a French Fry Case that looks like
a takeaway portion of the fast food, chocolate-wrapper
dresses and bold golden arch sweaters â were an instant hit
in the UAE, selling out immediately. But select items are now
back by popular demand and are available at The Galleria,
Al Maryah Island.
WWW.MOSCHINO.COM
NEPALI ARTISTRY
Nepalâs recently launched Kaligarh was founded as
a tribute to the artisans of the Himalayan region.
And within this companyâs jewellery lines, the motifs
and designs inherited from generations past, are re-crafted
into new forms by small-scale craftspeople,
who hand-make each product. The elegant works are
inspired by the history, geography and diversity of the
Himalayan region. There, jewellery is more than a form
of adornment â it carries symbolic reference to the
cosmology, lifestyle and spiritual beliefs of the wearer,
and the community within which they live. The Puraniya
collection showcases silver, gold and brass pieces that
are adorned with turquoise, coral, and lapis lazuli.
WWW.KALIGARH.COM
GOOD
LOOKS
18. Ăof enjoyment...
Witness and enjoy 360 degrees of unparalleled
views of Dubai and beyond from level 124 of
the worldâs tallest tower. Cruise at an incredible
10m/s with the worldâs fastest double deck
elevators. Explore the story behind Burj Khalifa
with unique and interactive exhibits. Step on to
an outdoor terrace and experience sweeping
views of Dubaiâs ever growing skyline.
To experience all-round enjoyment, visit At the
Top, Burj Khalifa.
www.atthetop.ae
800 ATTHETOP (288 43 867)
At the Top, Burj Khalifa AttheTopBurjKhalifa Atthetopâtweets
19. YOUR WORLD // ECO NEWS
18
TURTLE TIME
The private island of Sainte Anne in the Seychelles is home
to a Beachcomber Hotel, lapped by the waters of one of
the worldâs largest marine par ks. The turtle egg-laying
season starts here this month, lasting until January. Each
day, turtles venture ashore to lay their eggs on one of the
six beaches or creeks that form the beautiful shores. Two
months later, hatching begins, giving guests an amazing
glimpse of nature. Aware of the importance of the
preservation of these animals, the hotel has committed
to a protection programme in conjunction with Sainte
Anneâs marine park authorities. Every birth that occurs on
the island is reported and the turtles are regularly counted
and weighed. Procedures are implemented to guarantee
the preservation of the fragile ecosystem, with the nests
clearly marked, and lights switched off at night to offer
the creatures peace and privacy. An increasing number of
turtles returning to the island year on year suggests these
measures are working.
WWW.BEACHCOMBER-HOTELS.COM/HOTEL/
SAINTE-ANNE-RESORT-SPA
DANGLING ABODE
The Roomoon is a hanging tent handcrafted by Rufus Martin. Originally part
of an A-Level design and technology school project, the Roomoon has now
become a full-time business â after all, who doesnât want some time in a
spherical haven in the trees? The pinnacle of tensile glamping, the Roomoonâs
durable stainless steel frame is held rigid with push pins, but folds down for
easy transport. The hand-made canvas cover is designed to provide shelter,
yet opens to reveal the world, and the matt lacquered ply floor can be rolled
away for access to a small storage space below. Rolled up, the boards
become the carrying case for the frame and accessories. The real creativity,
though, is in the custom-made hoist that allows the user to haul themselves
three metres off the ground. Based on an engineering scheme from the 18th
century, the hoist can lift up to one tonne with its three ultra-high-molecular-weight
polyethylene slings, leaving you dangling in the canopy.
WWW.HANGINGTENTCOMPANY.COM
GREEN
LIFE
AN ODE TO THE OKAVANGO
UNESCO has officially designated Botswanaâs unique Okavango Delta its 1,000th World
Heritage Site. Situated in north-western Botswana, the Okavango Delta is a broad, fan-shaped
plain of permanent swamps and seasonally flooded grassland, spanning an area
roughly twice the size of Qatar. Its extraordinary annual flooding, which occurs in the
dry season, supports one of the greatest concentrations of wildlife in Africa, sustaining
populations of threatened large mammals such as the cheetah, the white and black
rhinoceros, the wild dog and the lion. It harbours 24 species of globally threatened birds and
is key to the survival of Botswanaâs population of 130,000 elephant â the largest community
of the species in the world. The Okavango also supports the lives of thousands of people by
providing fresh water, food, building materials, medicinal plants and employment through
tourism. The proposal for World Heritage listing was strongly backed by the indigenous
peoples living in and around the delta, who have conserved the area for millennia.
WWW.OKAVANGODELTA.COM
IMAGES: Alex Mourant Shutterstock.com
20.
21. YOUR WORLD // DRIVE
Hatching a plan
THE INVENTOR OF THE ORIGINAL HOT HATCH HAS CREATED SOMETHING EVEN HOTTER WITH ITS LATEST
ALL-WHEEL-DRIVE MODEL. BUT IS THE GOLF R WORTH THE EXTRA SPEND OVER THE ALREADY LEGENDARY GTI?
It was 1976 and a motoring revolution was
brewing. With the global oil crisis in full swing,
frugal fun was certainly a winning formula.
One German car-maker understood that not
everyone could afford a sports car, and proved
that keen drivers need not be lumped with
boring metal. Volkswagen set out to capture
customers by appealing to their sensible
nature. It took a humble city runabout, the Golf,
and installed a ground-breaking, K-Jetronic
mechanical fuel injection system. This gave it
110bhp, which, combined with stiffer suspension
and direct steering, made it a blast to punt
down the local B-road. A redesigned interior,
wider wheels and GTI badges were added. The
first âhot hatchâ was born.
Seven generations later and the GTI is still
the pick for those who want hatch practicality
but enjoy a bit of fun on the weekends. But,
like everything in life, there are those who
want more. Thus, with the advent of the
Golf Mk IV, Volkswagen decided to be a bit
creative. It took a 3.2-litre six-cylinder engine
making 237hp and shoehorned it into the tiny
engine bay of the GTI, adding a driveshaft to
also power the rear wheels, creating an all-paw
20
screamer. The Golf R32 entered the world
with a zinging engine and tremendous grip,
even if it wasnât especially fast.
The next iteration was brilliant â more
power, better balance, better sound. It was
quick and affordable, but again, was quite
heavy. A move to reduce emissions meant
downsizing the engine, thus the Mk VI Golf R
utilised a turbocharged 2.0-litre four-cylinder.
A good effort, on paper, it was executed
poorly in reality. Despite being all-wheel-drive,
it behaved exactly like a front-wheel-drive car,
understeering when pushed and far too laggy
when coming on boost.
The result was rather undignifying â the
front ploughed on in almost every corner
and the rear wheels couldnât supply enough
power to bring the back around. Apart from
the extra power over the Golf GTI, there was
absolutely no benefit in paying the thousands
of dollars extra it cost.
However, in 2014 a new version was
launched, and The Mark VII Golf R is very
different to its predecessor. Itâs longer, wider
and heavier, but it counters with more power,
better suspension and a far more capable
drive system.
Again, itâs a 2.0-litre boosted four-pot, but
Volkswagen has beefed up the internals to
handle the extra grunt. The cylinder head,
exhaust valves, valve seats and springs
have been all upgraded, while redesigned
pistons, injection valves and turbocharger
are included. Itâs a strong engine; oh yes,
aftermarket tuners will be rubbing their hands
with glee.
Using a dual-clutch transmission (the
much-vaunted six-speed, rather than the
sloppy seven-speed), the Golf R puts its
power effectively, launching it to 100kph in
just five seconds. But while itâs impressive in
a straight-line, itâs most at home attacking a
corner. Using a Haldex 5 apportioning drive
system, each wheel is primed to compensate
for slip, even before it happens.
The result is a beautifully balanced vehicle,
and one that doesnât raise the white flag to
physics partway through a curve. Even if the
road tightens, keep your foot buried, allowing
the electronic brain to sense the yaw and
shuffling the torque to the needed wheels.
The system is completely seamless, feeling
as natural as a well-sorted rear-wheel-drive,
and it simply pulls you through the bend and
slingshots you out the other side.
Despite this elec-trickery going on
underneath, it never feels disconnected or
artificial. Thereâs good weighting from the
steering, the brakes give good feel and the
paddles mounted on the steering wheel shift
near-instantly.
In Race mode, thereâs even a growly
exhaust note, adding to the enjoyment.
Couple that with a beautifully built interior and
heaps of room and the Golf R passes as not
just a hot hatch, but a genuine daily mode
of transport.
WORDS KARL PESKETT
24. MODERN.
CONTEMPORARY.
ABU DHABI ART.
5 - 8 November 2014
Manarat Al Saadiyat
Saadiyat Cultural District
Abu Dhabi Art offers a multi-disciplinary experience combining an art fair with a
diverse public engagement programme which includes art, talks and sensational
events.
ABU DHABI ART 2014 GALLERIES
AB Gallery
Acquavella Galleries, Inc.
Agial Art Gallery
Aicon Gallery
ARNDT
Athr Gallery
Ayyam Gallery
Carpenters Workshop Gallery
Edward Tyler Nahem Fine Art, L.L.C.
Elmarsa
Galeri Zilberman
Galerie Brigitte Schenk
Galerie Enrico Navarra
Galerie GP N Vallois
Galerie Janine Rubeiz
Galerie Tanit
Galerie Thaddaeus Ropac
GALLERIA CONTINUA
Gallery Isabelle van den Eynde
Hanart TZ Gallery
Hauser Wirth
Horrach Moya
Hunar Gallery
*Gallery list correct at time of printing, visit abudhabiart.ae for up to date information.
kamel mennour
Kashya Hildebrand Gallery
Kukje Gallery / Tina Kim Gallery
Lam Art Gallery
Le Violon Bleu
Leehwaik Gallery
Leila Heller Gallery
Lisson Gallery
Meem Gallery
October Gallery
Park Ryu Sook Gallery
Paul Kasmin Gallery
Paul Stolper Gallery
Salwa Zeidan Gallery
Sfeir-Semler Gallery
Simon Lee Gallery
Taymour Grahne Gallery
The Breeder
The Park Gallery
The Third Line
Whitestone Gallery
XVA Gallery
Organised by:
abudhabiart.ae
#AbuDhabiArt #InAbuDhabi
28. ÙÙŰȘ۰ۧÙ۱ ÙÙÙ ŰČÙŰŻ Ù Ù Ű§ÙÙ ŰčÙÙÙ Ű§ŰȘ
To buy tickets for more information
ۧÙŰ¶Ù Ùۧ Ű„ÙÙ Ű§ÙŰÙۧ۱
Join the conversation
29. YOUR WORLD // ETIHAD HOLIDAYS
28
ISLAND IDYLL
North Island in the serene Seychelles archipelago
is the ultimate island paradise, a rare sanctuary for
those seeking a gorgeous, unspoiled tropical haven
on a large, private island. Itâs home to just 11 opulent,
hand-crafted guest villas, each exquisitely designed
to celebrate nature and offer a home-away-from-home
ambience. The villas are 450 square metres, the
optimum size to produce the feeling of exclusivity and
space with enough room to spread out and enjoy a
unique, island-style experience to the full.
Escape to this five-star paradisiacal hideaway
with Etihad Holidays from AED 51,299 per person. The
package includes return Business Class flights with
Etihad Airways from Abu Dhabi to Seychelles; three
nights in a Presidential Villa on twin sharing basis;
breakfast, lunch and dinner, all drinks and cocktails;
scuba diving and snorkelling activities around North
Island dive sites; sea kayaking; mountain biking; sunset
cruises and guided nature walks; a half-day fishing
charter; use of a North Island buggy; return helicopter
transfers and taxes and surcharges.
WINTER WONDERLAND
Historic Christmas markets, held throughout Europe, are becoming
more popular. The ambience of a typical German Christmas market is
enhanced by the aromas of hot chestnuts, grilled sausages and other
tasty snacks. Explore this magical country with Etihad Holidays and a
four-day Christmas market tour in southern Germany, from AED 6,599
per person. The package includes return Economy Class flights from
Abu Dhabi to Munich; three nightsâ accommodation in a four-star hotel
in Munich; breakfast; return airport transfers; a full-day excursion to
Neuschwanstein Castle (excluding entrance fees) as well as a full-day
excursion to Nuremberg; and taxes and surcharges.
GOLDEN TRIANGLE TRAVELS
Indiaâs âGolden Triangleâ is one of the countryâs most well-travelled routes
and is known for its cultural gems and transient landscapes. Embark on
a journey tracing its lines with Etihad Holidays from AED 2,599 per person
and discover the sights and sounds of this vibrant country. Enjoy two
nights exploring the historical city of Delhi before travelling to Agra and
visiting the majestic Taj Mahal. Travel onwards to the famed âPink Cityâ
of Jaipur and its palaces, impressive forts and museums. The package
includes return Economy Class flights from Abu Dhabi to Delhi; five nightsâ
accommodation in varied four-star accommodation on a twin sharing
basis; breakfast; tours; transfers and taxes and surcharges.
IMAGES: Filmfoto Shutterstock.com
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32. ABU DHABI SNAPSHOT ABU DHABI
32 News
Disney spectaculars, the National Traditional
Handicrafts Festival and family fun at Yas Marina are all
to be found in the Capital in October.
40 People
A horrendous injury abruptly curtailed Emirati Mo
Hassanâs rugby career in the middle of a World Cup.
Now heâs returning to the international stage, but in an
altogether different sport.
43 Developing Film
The Abu Dhabi Film Festival returns this month, bringing
with it a number of firsts.
Stratos, a new revolving lounge and
grill concept at Le Royal Meridien
Abu Dhabi offers a world of
lavish interiors and delicious cuisine.
IMAGE: Stratos
33. ABU DHABI // NEWS
32
DIVE IN
Yas Marinaâs water-themed family-fun day Splash@Yas is back â with
a host of water sports and entertainment on 17 October. Here is your
chance to try wakeboarding, water skiing, stand-up paddleboarding,
kayaking or sailing. For adrenaline junkies thereâs the sea sofa â a
high-speed tow along the channel between Yas Marina and the
mainland, or visitors can jump aboard one of Captain Tonyâs Cruises
and set sail for half an hour around Yas Island. There will be plenty
of action on dry land too, with kidsâ entertainment and activities, a
playground and a musical fountain. With a combination of free and
paid activities, pack your swimsuit, bring a towel, and simply dive in
to everything on offer. To finish off in style, a free family movie will be
screened outdoors. With seven restaurants and bars on-site, thereâs no
need to go home hungry, and when the sun fades, the marina nightlife
kicks off with live music and DJs.
WWW.YASMARINA.AE
PAYING HOMAGE TO HERITAGE
The Emirateâs cultural heartland, Al Ain, is launching a new celebration
â the National Traditional Handicrafts Festival, running from 23-29
October. It will take place at the historic Souq Al Qattara; an old market
once abandoned that was restored and re-opened in 2012. The festival
aims to shed light on the importance of traditional craftsmanship in
Emirati heritage and support craftsmenâs efforts to preserve, revive,
and transfer their skills to future generations. The programme will
include heritage competitions for visitors of all ages, including an
Al Yola dance contest for children, a craftsmanship competition,
preparation of traditional Emirati dishes and making Arabic coffee,
in addition to dance and musical performances. There will also be a
series of specialised workshops on the production and promotion of
traditional handicrafts, which will outline the importance of handicrafts
as part of the living heritage of the nation, intrinsic to modern life.
WWW.VISITABUDHABI.AE
IMAGES: Getty Editorial Shutterstock.com
THE POWER OF LOVE
Disneyâs Beauty and the Beast is celebrating 20
years on stage, with its first-ever international
tour. The musical fairy tale will be arriving in
Abu Dhabi on 30 October with performances up
until 8 November at the du Forum on Yas Island.
Based on the 1991 Academy-Award winning
animated feature film, Disneyâs Beauty and the
Beast is the classic story of Belle, a young woman
in a provincial town, and the beast, who is really a
young prince trapped by a spell placed upon him
by an enchantress. If the beast can learn to love
and be loved, the curse will end, but time is tight
and if he doesnât learn his lesson soon, he and
his household will be doomed. Since licensing in
2004, this enchanting tale has been performed in
22 countries, seen by more than 35 million people,
during a run of over 28,000 performances.
WWW.THINKFLASH.AE/EVENTS/DISNEY-S-BEAUTY-AND-
THE-BEAST
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38. ABU DHABI // FASHION
36
The new watch design is based on
Michael Korsâ bestselling Runway
watch, this time in rose-gold-tone
stainless steel with a detailed map
of the world etched onto a striking
grey-blue dial. This timepiece is
available exclusively in Michael Kors
stores worldwide and online at
www.michaelkors.com
ITâS TIME
TO FIGHT
MICHAEL KORS RECENTLY
ANNOUNCED THE LAUNCH OF
THIS NEW, LIMITED-EDITION
WATCH AS PART OF THE
100 SERIES, THE SPECIALLY
DESIGNED WATCH COLLECTION
OFFERED IN SUPPORT OF
THE BRANDâS GLOBAL WATCH
HUNGER STOP CAMPAIGN. FOR
EACH 100 SERIES WATCH SOLD,
100 CHILDREN IN A HUNGER-STRICKEN
AREA WILL RECEIVE A
NUTRITIOUS MEAL.
39.
40. ABU DHABI // AT LEISURE
38
IMAGE: Stratos
Sky-high delight
STRATOS, A NEW REVOLVING LOUNGE AND GRILL CONCEPT AT LE ROYAL MERIDIEN ABU DHABI, IS UNIQUE TO THE CITY.
TOWERING ABOVE THE UAE CAPITAL, IT SITS IN THE CLOUDS, OFFERING A WORLD OF
Italian fashion designer Giorgio Armani
and executive head chef Justin Galea have
something in common: matching collections
of gilded, Art Deco-style crockery from
Germany. While Armani keeps his at home,
chef Justin uses his set to present culinary
works of art at Stratos, Abu Dhabiâs latest
hotspot in the sky.
Set on the highest floor of Le Royal Meridien,
this revolving restaurant takes more than two
hours to rotate, allowing for plenty of time
to take in panoramic views of downtown
Abu Dhabi, the Corniche, Lulu Island and
beyond. And whether itâs for afternoon tea,
sunset cocktail hour or dinner, thereâs the
chance to catch sight of the UAE capital in
a variety of light.
But Iâd suggest getting there after dark
to experience it at its best. As the cityâs
skyscrapers begin to flicker, spot lamps are
dimmed and candles are lit. Gold cushions
on plush, high-backed seats shimmer, and
bronze cutlery on reflective black tables
sparkles. A black and white carpet with a
diamond motif commands attention while
framed quirky line-drawings of camels, owls
and flamingos decorate the walls. The fit-out
is Great Gatsby meets Alice in Wonderland,
and this opulent and playful theme trickles
down to chef Justinâs food.
Itâs hats off to this man and his chef de
cuisine Grant Balinger, for delivering an
imaginative menu and presenting their
dishes with flair. The kitchen is open, and as I
spin past it twice during dinner (yes, I stayed
here that long), I chat to the cooks while
they work. Created with seasonal produce
and sourced from the finest global suppliers,
theyâre all about achieving the right balance
of flavours. Nothing looking contrived.
Snacks from the Lounge Selection include
crispy fried king prawns scented with fresh
curry and lemongrass sauce, and chicken
fritters, which I dunk in chipotle mayonnaise.
The former are fragrant and delicate, while the
latter are addictive. And if fine dining did ever
offer a take-away, these morsels of comforting
goodness should be served in a bucket.
An edible empire of mains will tempt all
taste buds, and really itâs difficult to decide
on whatâs best. From caviar served in a
24-carat-gold-plated egg, to parmesan
gnocchi served with black truffle and
parmesan foam, or the buttery west coast
Scottish langoustines to the decadent lobster
mac-and-cheese made with a rich Dunlop
cheddar and a brioche crust, itâs a feast for
the senses. Simple sides packed with flavour
serve as perfect accompaniments. Order
the uber-creamy Paris mash or spinach
Rockefeller and donât leave without trying
the salad of baby spinach, red onion, tomato,
olive and Roquefort.
Can the desserts top all that? The answer
is yes. And there are three that need to be
tried. The spiced roasted pineapple with star
anise syrup, eight spice and black truffle ice
cream has an intriguing bite. Match it with
one of the fine whiskies on offer and its
smokey flavours will explode in your mouth.
The chefâs Valrhona chocolate version of a
Magnum ice-cream bar is simply delicious,
but itâs the strawberry posset which, if I
absolutely had to choose, would win my
vote. Served with granola, meringue, lemon
sorbet and 20-year-old balsamic vinegar, itâs
a great take on this classic pud, which I think
epitomises chef Justinâs style.
LAVISH INTERIORS AND DELICIOUS CUISINE.
WORDS TIFFANY ESLICK
43. ABU DHABI // PEOPLE
The UAE and Hawaii are not quite
antipodes, but they come close to that. Almost
14,000km and innumerable cultures separate
Honolulu and Abu Dhabi; the fact surfing has
successfully travelled from one to the other is
proof of its global appeal.
In just four years, Mohammed Hassan
Rahma (or Mo, as he prefers to be called)
has gone from an artificial pool in the Abu
Dhabi desert to chasing hurricane-driven
swells in Mexico, and, at the end of this
month, competing in the International Surfing
Association World Surfing Games, which will be
held in Punta Rocas, just south of Lima, Peru.
Mo moved to Los Angeles in time for Etihad
Airwaysâ launch there earlier this year â the
27-year-old is a sales development manager
for the airline â ostensibly for work, but also to
continue his development into a world-class
surfer. The move allowed him to significantly
improve his surfing, and increase the amount
of time he could spend in the water. At the right
time of year, the UAE does enjoy surfing swells,
but they are seasonal and unreliable.
Alongside a stint in Australia, Moâs time
in California has seen him qualify for the
Surfing Games. That is significant in its own
regard but remarkable considering his path
to get there. Not only has his rise in the sport
been meteoric but, quite incredibly, this is the
second sport at which he will participate in a
40
the sea, especially when it comes to reading
the ocean. In that regard, he will always be
playing catch-up with competitors who have
spent most of their lives watching the horizon,
preparing for the perfect wave.
For Mo, the waves in Peru are likely to
be the biggest heâs ever surfed. He plans
to get to South America 10 days before the
tournament, but is realistic about what he
hopes to achieve.
âMy main goals are to represent my country
and to increase exposure of surfing in the
UAE. Putting that all together would be really
good for me; putting the UAE on the surfing
map⊠I hope that in three yearsâ time weâll
have five Emiratis competing in the event.â
Above all, he takes enormous pride from
being able to be the UAEâs flag-bearer.
During the opening ceremony, each surfer will
deposit a handful of sand from their home
country â in that element at least, the Emirati
expects to do well. âItâll be the easiest part,â
he laughs.
IMAGES: Abdel Elecho
A HORRENDOUS INJURY ABRUPTLY CURTAILED MO HASSANâS RUGBY CAREER IN
THE MIDDLE OF A WORLD CUP. NOW HEâS RETURNING TO THE INTERNATIONAL
STAGE, BUT IN AN ALTOGETHER DIFFERENT SPORT.
WORDS JAMIE LAFFERTY
world championships. And whatever happens
in Peru, itâs hard to imagine this time around
being more of a disaster than the last.
They say pride comes before a fall, but in
Moâs case it came immediately before an
obliterated knee. He was competing in the
2008 World Cup Rugby Sevens when he had
the chance to score a try. Bearing down on
the points, he decided to showboat a little, at
which point his ACL, meniscus and knee bone
imploded. The pain and rehabilitation process
for such an injury would be enough to put
most people off the idea of sport altogether.
Yet, before medical professionals thought
he was ready to do so, Mo found himself
in the water and very quickly on a board.
There followed a whirlwind of improvement,
expedited by good coaches and meeting
the right professionals. His current coach
is Sean Mattison, whom Mo credits for his
improved technique, fitness and results. âHe
makes me cry every day â if I donât finish a
manoeuvre that weâve been practicing, Iâm
not allowed to come in,â he says over the
phone from Los Angeles.
The Emirati manages to squeeze in surfing
before and after work most days, and is
practicing as much as possible before the
big event. But while he has clearly adapted to
the sport at an almost unnatural rate, there
is no substitute for the experience of being in
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46. ABU ABU DHABI FILM FESTIVAL // ABU DHABI
The Abu Dhabi Film Festival (ADFF)
is growing up. Now in its eighth year, its
programme is more varied, covers more
nationalities, more subjects and a longer
span of film history than ever before. More
selections are submitted for consideration,
audiences are bigger.
As the ADFF has matured, so have its
audiences. In 2013, some filmgoers were so
affected by what theyâd just seen that they
approached the filmmaker afterwards with
tears in their eyes, trembling while trying
to explain their gratitude. âSince Ali Al Jabri
became festival director, there has been a
significant increase in the local audiences,â
says director of programming, Teresa Cavina.
The opening film of this yearâs festival is
a good indicator of just how far things have
come. And itâs an Emirati film that will kick off
the eight-day event. Dubai-based director Ali
Mostafaâs From A to B tells the story of a group
of friends taking a road-trip from Abu Dhabi to
Beirut. The follow-up to Mostafaâs 2009 City of
Life, its prominence within the programme is
seen as a triumph of local film-making. âThis is
the first time weâve opened with an Emirati film
and weâre proud and happy to present it on
opening night,â says festival director Ali Al Jabri.
From A to B will be the highest-profile
Emirati film shown, but it is far from being
the only one. While there is still a shortage
of native feature films, the short-film scene is
booming. The festival programme has grown
by 12 percent this year overall â a figure
matched by the increase in submissions to
the Emirati Film Competition.
However, these days that title is something
of a misnomer. âThere has been a wealth
of short films submitted,â says Cavina. âItâs
called the EFC, but itâs actually open to all
Khaleeji [Arabian Gulf] filmmakers. We have
submissions from all GCC cultures.â
The 2,032 entries included works by Kuwaiti
and Bahraini artists, as well as the expected
deluge of domestic pieces, with filmmakers free
to tackle any subject they liked.
43
DEVELOPING
FILM
THE ABU DHABI FILM
FESTIVAL RETURNS
THIS MONTH, BRINGING
WITH IT A NUMBER OF
FIRSTS, SHOWCASING
EVERYTHING FROM PET
PROJECTS TO SILVER
SCREEN CLASSICS TO
MULTI-MILLION DOLLAR
DISNEY SPECTACLES.
FROM TOP: Emirati film
director Ali Mostafa
reviews footage; the
red carpet at last yearâs
Abu Dhabi Film Festival.
The opening film of this
yearâs festival is a good
indicator of just how far
things have come. For the
first time, an Emirati film will
kick off the eight-day event.
47. At the other end of the festivalâs budgetary
scale is Big Hero 6, which has been chosen
to close the proceedings on 1 November.
The first Disney film since 2013âs ludicrously
successful Frozen (which had a budget of
US$150 million and went on to take over $1.2
billion globally), it marks their first cinematic
union with Marvel. Set in a fictional future city,
Big Hero 6 follows a young robotics prodigy
and his portly android companion Baymax
as they are forced to become amateur crime
fighters. With two of the most powerful names
in childrenâs entertainment attached, and a
budget that most filmmakers can only dream
of, itâs a huge movie â and surely the biggest
film ever to come to ADFF?
âWell we have to agree on the term âhugeâ,â
says Cavina. âWhen we can also show our
audience winners from the Berlin [Black
Coal, Thin Ice, winner of the coveted Golden
Bear] and Cannes festivals [The Salt of the
44
Earth, winner of Un Certain Regard special
prize] and the Francois Truffaut films, it is
maybe not so clear. But itâs true that thereâs a
synergy happening here in Abu Dhabi. I donât
think itâs by chance that we were selected not
just because of the festival, but also because
Abu Dhabi is becoming an important place
for film.â Important enough for the Star Wars
franchise, now also managed by Disney,
to come to the emirate earlier this year to
shoot part of the seventh movie in their
cherished saga.
However, for many, itâs the Francois Truffaut
films that Cavina mentions which are perhaps
the most significant at this yearâs festival. One
of the founding fathers of the French New
Wave movement, Truffaut was enormously
successful and influential through the 1960s
and 1970s, winning Oscars, BAFTAs and
festival prizes along the way. His films are not
the most famous at the festival, and perhaps
wonât be the most popular, but for Cavina and
festival director Al Jabri, they represent a vital
step in the evolution of the event. âItâs exciting
that we can start to show homages (itâs not
a retrospective) to filmmakers,â says Cavina.
âNow we feel confident enough to show those
films, knowing that there will be an audience
for them. At the beginning of the festival that
was not the case. The attention on non-
Hollywood and Bollywood films was very low.
Little by little we started to show other things
â for example we showed Chaplin and people
discovered that even silent movies were fun.â
This year, filmgoers will be able to see an
eclectic array of classics, from Rebel Without
a Cause to Mary Poppins to A Fistful of
Dollars. âWe really feel we have killed two
pigeons with one stone by showing one of
the great film makers of cinema history, â
Francois Truffaut â and films that are really
ABU DHABI // ABU DHABI FILM FESTIVAL
âWe really feel we have killed two pigeons with one
stone by showing one of the great film makers
of cinema history â Francois Truffaut â and films
that are really eternal.â
eternal,â says Cavina. âThe audience will not
feel as though theyâre watching something
that is 40 or 50 years old.â
Over a thousand films were watched,
whittled down to under 70 (not including
the EFC entries) for the final schedule.
Some of the selections will only be shown
in Abu Dhabi, but may go on to have lives in
cinemas around the world. Others have been
brought in following their success elsewhere.
ADFF representatives attend several festivals
around the world to acquire new titles and
to see if there is anything to be learned
from the organisers of Toronto, Venice and
Cannes. âFrom the beginning of the year weâre
working hard to make our selections, to have
meetings â a lot of things happen for the
festival,â says Al Jabri. âWeâre always trying to
get exciting films from all over the world.â
IMAGES: ADFF
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: A scene from Emirati film From A to B; director Sergio Leone;
catch an array of classics llike Rebel Without a Cause at this yearâs ADFF; festival director
Ali Al Jabri; an iconic scene from Mary Poppins; Clint Eastwood in A Fistful of Dollars.
48.
49. 46
THE PHOENIX
FROM THE WAVES
TEN YEARS ON FROM THE DEVASTATING TSUNAMI, PHUKET HAS NEVER BEEN BUSIER â OR
MORE READY TO HOST GUESTS SEEKING LUXURY.
WORDS JAMIE LAFFERTY
51. COVER STORY // PHUKET
No one can accuse Phuketâs rainy
season of false advertising. Predominantly
running from July to the end of October,
it is characterised by alternate periods of
explosive showers and sudden sun, the sky
rendered schizophrenic by the season. Yet,
while it might not feel like it if youâre caught
in a downpour, all that water is essential for
making the island, and wider Thailand, such
a green and fertile place â there are times on
Phuket when it feels as though you can see
the jungle growing.
When I visit during the rainy period, Iâm
concerned that the weather might leave
me with nothing to do. Or perhaps not
nothing â like Indonesiaâs Bali or Spainâs
Ibiza, Phuketâs name is synonymous with
hedonistic holidaymakers, but as on those
two far-flung cousins, they tend to stay in a
very small part of the island. People didnât
first arrive because they were looking for a
party â they came because the island and
waters around are beautiful. Later, they
realised that nothing is very far from the
international airport and that, outside of the
rainy season, the weather is reliable and the
diving is world class.
For Phuketâs part, its wild side is largely
contained within Patong, where backpackers
and thrill-seekers arrive year-round in search
of fun. It is bypassed by locals and discerning
holidaymakers alike. However, it is absolutely
not a reason to avoid Phuket altogether, an
island in flux and which has enjoyed a steady
rise in a number of high-end luxury properties
around the island.
The newest of these is the already serene
Point Yamu by COMO, a barely finished
property that hangs over the end of a
peninsula like a thimble on a finger. Itâs an
unusual place for a number of reasons.
Firstly, unlike the majority of Phuketâs
resorts, itâs on the east side of the island,
facing into the dramatic Phang Nga Bay.
Awake early enough and you can see the
sun rise between islands that look like
plates along a stegosaurâs spine, reflected
by a vast mirror created by the stillness of
the water.
The resort is also unusual in that it doesnât
have a beach. To me this is great news â
thereâs no temptation to get covered in sand,
then traipse it through the hotel and into my
room. Guests who insist on that kind of thing
can take the hotelâs small boat over to Rang
Yai island, where thereâs a private beach and
48
the chance to pretend youâve been stranded
on a desert island, at least for an hour or two.
Feeling superbly slothful, I instead decide
that the most active I want to be is to take the
elevator to a treatment room. The COMO brand
has made its name by offering sensational
treatments across its nine properties and,
despite the newness of this particular haven,
the standards have not been allowed to slip.
Time passes strangely when youâre getting the
right massage â slowing down and speeding
up, things becoming at once intense and
dreamlike. When Iâm told the treatment has
finished, I have to be nudged awake. The
howling madness of Patong seems like a far-off
impossibility.
Outside of its superb Nahmyaa restaurant
and atmospheric lobby, much of Point Yamu
by COMO doesnât feel especially Thai â it is
sleek and it is pretty and it has a location
than can hardly be bettered, but local it is
not. Perhaps thatâs part of a push for ultra-modernity
and perhaps thatâs why Amanpuri,
on the other side of the island, looks so
very different.
Built in 1988, like its nominal rival Amanpuri
is out of the ordinary. The COMO brand and
several others have come late to the Phuket
party, but Aman Resorts saw something here
before anyone else.
PREVIOUS PAGE: The distinctive swimming pool at the heart of Amanpuri, one of Phuketâs oldest
luxury resorts and Amanâs flagship property.
CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: The atmospheric, open-air lobby at COMOâs brand new Point Yamu
property; a modern, breezy sun lounger and pool at Point Yamu; the more traditionally Thai
buildings at Amanpuri; Point Yamuâs superb Nahmyaa Thai restaurant, complete with giant
bubble-eyed goldfish; the view from the COMO property across Phang Nga Bay, one of the most
spectacular panoramas anywhere on Phuket.
52. PHUKET // COVER STORY
There are times on Phuket when it feels as though you can see the jungle growing.
49
53. The brand now has properties in 19
countries, but this is their flagship. If you have
enjoyed an Aman hotel in another part of
the world, it is at least in part because the
Phuket formula has proved so successful. With
pavilions, pagodas and scaly, Smaugian roofs,
everything about Amanpuri feels very Thai.
The food, the staff, the brilliant massages, all
of it is local, very much in sync with itself and
its surroundings â thus the benefit of two and
a half decades of experience.
For most of that time, Tong has worked on
site. Originally from Bangkok, he started here
in 1995 and today, at 50 years old, he is proud
to call himself sports and recreation manager.
Tong is softly spoken, and not just because
we are talking in the hotelâs surprisingly well-stocked
50
library. I donât think the whisper-quiet
of his brogue is to do with our topic of
conversation, either, although Iâd understand
if it was.
On Boxing Day 2004, halfway through
Tongâs time at Amanpuri, everything changed
â for him, for Phuket, for all of South East Asia.
To understand the number of people who
The food, the staff, the brilliant massages,
all of it is local, very much in sync with itself and
its surroundings â thus the benefit of two and a
half decades of experience.
died in the tsunami that day, the Great East
Japan Earthquake of 2011 is not a suitable
comparison. The 230,000 estimated dead are
more comparable in number to the victims of
the joint nuclear bombings of Hiroshima and
Nagasaki at the end of World War Two.
Despite its proximity to the megathrust
quake, which occurred just off the coast of
Indonesia, Thailand suffered fairly few losses;
the 5,000-plus deaths were not insignificant,
but compared to other countries, it was
comparatively spared. Still, Phuket was
among the islands affected by the tsunami.
Tong will never forget it â not least because
he was working on the beach during that
fateful morning.
The great Japanese woodblock artist
Hokusaiâs work The Great Wave off Kanagawa
is an image most people believe accurately
depicts a tsunami: a towering, terrible thing
that seems to be constantly on the verge of
breaking as it surges forth. It looks theatrical
â perhaps even surfable. In reality a tsunami is
a pulsating collection of waves, which pushes
forward until it runs out of energy or, just as
likely, makes landfall. But before all the water
arrives, it is preceded by a strange void, a
disappearance of seawater. In 2004, no one
locally knew this.
âI was on the beach because the gym
used to be down there,â says Tong as I
strain to listen to him. âThe sea started going
down. It was something strange â weâd
never seen it before, suddenly it was dry
and going out. We knew there had been
an earthquake in Sumatra in the night, but
we didnât know what the effect would beâŠâ
Around 50 metres of water disappeared,
sucked out so quickly that fish were left
flipping and flapping on the exposed sea bed.
For some of the local fishermen, this was a
dream come true â they ran forward to collect
what they thought was the easiest catch of
their lives.
It was mid-morning in Phuket and even
though it was the high, dry season, none of
the hotelâs guests had yet made it to the gym.
It was just Tong and an Australian trainee
watching the demented fishermen chase fish
around the sand.
âTen minutes later, the water started
coming back. The first one came like a high
tide, so quick, so we started pulling back the
sun loungers. But when the second one came,
we knew something was wrong,â says Tong.
It was the Australian trainee who declared it
a tsunami and when they saw the third wave
approach, everyone fled for their lives.
Despite its coastal location, Amanpuri
coped with the disaster admirably. The gym
was lost and its beach ravaged, but the
property is built above a cliff face and then
up a hill, like a sea fort. As a result, the
damage was minimal and no lives were lost.
Further up the coast, particularly in Khao Lak,
people were not so fortunate. As soon as
they could, Amanpuri sent staff to help with
the relief effort.
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56. THE CLINK // GOURMET
CAREFUL THEKNIVES
53
DINING IN WORKING PRISONS IS THE LATEST FOODIE FAD TO HIT LONDON â BUT HEREâS WHY ITâS MORE
THAN JUST AN ARRESTING LUNCH.
WORDS DAVID PARRY
Just 200 yards off the bustling Brixton
Hill street is a restaurant with a difference. A
real difference. It serves breakfast and lunch
like plenty of the trendy outlets in the nearby
Brixton Village, awarded the accolade of best
market in the whole UK for its hipster appeal.
But this 120-cover restaurant, some would
argue, is in one of the least desirable places
to dine in the country. Itâs located beyond the
thick-steel doors of Her Majestyâs Prison Brixton
â from the outside a mesh of barbed wire and
security cameras. Itâs all rather intimidating.
The notion that criminals and convicts
serve up gourmet fare and are entrusted
with sharp knives and pointy cooking utensils
is not as fanciful as it seems â all of HMP
Brixtonâs successful prisoner applicants who
make it past the rigorous interview stage
relish the opportunity to cook for paying
diners. It not only helps alleviate the boredom
of mundane cell life, but is part of a larger
five-step model (recruit, train, audit, employ,
mentor) to reduce overall reoffending rates:
indeed, the news of the prisonersâ capacity
to learn and share their skills is starting to
spread well beyond the confines of the
prison walls.
The restaurant project, or The Clink
Charity as itâs officially known, is becoming
championed thanks to an increase in
openings â the HMP Brixton restaurant
follows the successful launch of others at
prisons in Cardiff in Wales and one at High
Down, Surrey.
More prison restaurants are in the pipeline,
too, and itâs evident that the idea is engaging
the greater British public with the welfare of
prisoners in a way thatâs never been done
before. So how has it become such a success?
âWeâve had 12,000 visitors so far,â says Chris
Moore, chief executive of The Clink Charity
behind the restaurant. âThatâs 1,000 people a
month â a real cross-section of society. So I
like to think that weâre changing the publicâs
perception of what life in a prison is like, and
weâre helping out the hospitality industry. It
operates just like a normal restaurant, really â
you just canât sneak out for a cigarette break.â
Given that dining at HMP Brixton requires
an in-depth security assessment before any
reservation is granted, it can also prove to be
a complicated visit.
Basic entry includes the following: all
visitors must book at least 72 hours in
advance of arrival and be aged 18 or over
(which deters any walk-in customers, the
bane of Londonâs no-reservation dining trend).
Mobile phones or SIM Cards are not allowed in
to the prison at any time. You may be required
to undergo a biometric evaluation, which
includes your fingerprints and photograph
being taken. Diners may also be subject to
routine searching. Then, before the booking
can be confirmed, this is written in big scary
red letters: âPlease ensure you have read and
understood the security procedures outlined
above as it is a criminal offence if you do not
comply.â All of which means that â once you
get past the portcullis and menacingly thick
steel door â you can be happily guaranteed a
table on a busy lunchtime.
WITH
I like to think that weâre changing the publicâs
perception of what life in a prison is like, and weâre
helping out the hospitality industry.
57. GOURMET // THE CLINK
What makes The Clink restaurant such
an empowering concept â and like a badge
of honour for anyone that has visited â is
it genuinely seems to be working. Upon
their release, graduates are helped to
find employment within the catering and
hospitality industry, and mentors them weekly
for six to 12 months to help them reintegrate
into society without reoffending.
âThe prisoners work 40 hours a week, eight
hours a day and learn more than just how to
work in a professional kitchen,â adds Chris.
âThey learn teamwork, motivation, social skills
â and some of these prisoners have never
had a job, at least not a legal one.â
On top of this, each training session is
meticulous (the knives and sharper kitchen
implements are locked away and need to
be signed in and out every time theyâre used
to trim a carrot) and each dish is carefully
constructed. Each kitchen assistant or pastry
chef has a genuine opportunity to continue
their career within the hospitality industry
after they serve their custodial sentence â
and the statistics for reoffenders are startling.
Currently in the UK, 47 percent of ex-offenders
54
reoffend within one year of release,
rising to 75 percent among those who do not
find work within five years. In 2011, however, the
reoffending rate of The Clinkâs graduates was
12.5 percent, according to their own statistics
â and many more found work in restaurants,
including Carluccioâs, Prezzo, Wahaca and
Locanda Locatelli â four of the UKâs most
well-regarded restaurant chains..
So successful is the charity that the fourth
restaurant is now soon to open at HMP Styal,
near Manchester, early next year. Itâll be the
first in a female prison, and by 2017, The Clink
Charity plans to have 10 training projects
across the UK, mentoring upwards of 500
prisoners a year. There are also now two Clink
Gardens, where prisoners farm fruit, vegetables
and herbs to supply the restaurants, plus they
have recently invested in livestock, including
some 50 chickens.
âThis is all part of the bigger picture,â says
Chris. âWhen you come out of prison you
need to have a tough skin. Itâs difficult to find
work, to get a mortgage, to pay bills. Society
is against you and thatâs why so many former
prisoners reoffend. Thatâs where The Clink is
starting to really make a difference.â
As for the restaurant itself, for the casual
diner, thatâs an eye-opener, too. The slate
walls could be straight out of Mayfairâs finest
five-star hotels and the banquet seating and
tables â indeed everything, including the
lighting â couldnât be further from the rest of
prison life, despite the fact that theyâve been
handcrafted in prison workshops throughout
the country.
And the food? The menu reads like it
should belong at a far more expensive
Michelin-starred outpost in Soho. For a main
course you can choose pan-seared cod loin
with pea crust, confit potatoes, pancetta,
samphire and lemon and caper dressing, or
thyme roast guinea fowl with celeriac rosti
and chargrilled vegetables.
Dessert could be chocolate and chilli tart
with lime-infused crĂšme fraĂźche â or a variety
of ice creams, all of which are made fresh on-site,
every morning.
âWeâve been visited by the Michelin team,â
concludes Chris, proudly. âBut as weâre not
open to the public in the traditional sense as a
walk-in, walk-out restaurant, weâre not eligible
â though they did say they loved the place.â
Breakfast: Monday to Friday 7.15am â 9.15am.
Lunch: Monday to Friday 12noon 12.30pm.
Reservations and pre-screening security
checks are compulsory.
www.theclinkrestaurant.com
IMAGES: Shutterstock.com The Clink
It not only helps alleviate the boredom of mundane cell life, but is part of a larger
five-step model (recruit, train, audit, employ, mentor) to reduce overall reoffending
rates: indeed, the news of the inmatesâ capacity to learn and share their skills is
starting to spread well beyond the confines of the prison walls.
FROM LEFT: The menu at The Clink is competing
with some of Londonâs top-notch eateries; the
prisoners work 40 hours a week, eight hours a
day; more than 12,000 patrons have eaten at
The Clink so far.
60. MAX VERSTAPPEN // SPORT
57
Verstappen
and his father
Jos in the
Scuderia Toro
Rosso garage
during practice
ahead of the
Belgian Grand
Prix at Circuit de
Spa-Francor
champs.
think itâs not as complicated as it looks. I think
that any driver can come to F1, adapt, and
get up to speed. I think everybody is coming
to Formula One for some reason â because
he has talent, and he has been successful
somewhere. There is always a reason, but
then there are many different things that
make the difference, so itâs as simple as that.â
Australian driver Daniel Ricciardo â who
has taken three victories this year at top
team Red Bull Racing â knows the strength
of the driver development programme that
Red Bull has put Verstappen on ahead of his
debut next year.
âDefinitely the Red Bull Junior Team and
the programme for me worked a treat; helped
me get to where I am,â Ricciardo says. âItâs
good theyâre now helping out Max. Obviously
the age is the question mark but the talent
is there. Itâs going to be interesting but, yeah,
itâs good.â
The learning curve, naturally, will be very
steep â if not vertical. âFirst of all, I think itâs
great that teams are still interested in the
talent of the driver and not the money,â says
Williamsâ driver Felipe Massa. â[However], 17
is a little bit young! For sure, we need to wait
and see how heâs going to perform in his first
year. I think the most important thing is that
he has the talent.
âI hope he can be clever as well. Thereâs a
lot to learn and I hope that heâs quick enough
to learn and be consistent in Formula One,
and that he can stay, not just for one or
two years.â
Itâs a sentiment shared by Lotus F1 Teamâs
Romain Grosjean, who only last year really
came of age â shedding himself of his fast,
but erratic reputation.
âItâs a wonderful opportunity that he
has and itâs something quite special to
come to Formula One,â Grosjean says. âAs
everyone says, he has shown great talent
early in his career but he will have a lot
of homework to do to learn everything
about racing in higher categories â [and
to understand] tyre degradation, speed, a lot
of things.â
Grosjean should know â he had to grow up
very fast in F1. His lowest moment came two
years ago at the Belgian Grand Prix, during his
first full season, when he was handed a one-race
ban for his part in causing the multi-car
pile-up on lap one.
It was just part of a series of accidents for
which now-ex-F1 driver Mark Webber labeled
him a âfirst-lap nutcaseâ.
For now, Verstappen will prepare for his F1
debut next year by taking part in a number
of Friday first-practice sessions at Grands Prix
â with Abu Dhabi on the cards. And itâs there
that weâll see exactly how quick he is.
âWeâve all worked tremendously hard to
reach F1 and I will give my absolute best to
be successful in the pinnacle of motorsport,â
he says.
Itâs a sink-or-swim moment for the
Dutchman set to become the youngest-ever
F1 driver. Ready or not, itâs time for his
ultimate test.
The 2014 FORMULA 1 ETIHAD AIRWAYS
ABU DHABI GRAND PRIX will be held at the Yas
Marina Circuit from 21-23 November 2014. For
information on F1 tickets and Etihad Holidays
F1 packages please visit Etihad.com.
maturity and mental strength to take on this
challenge successfully. This year [in European
F3] he has already demonstrated how well
he can cope under difficult conditions [on-track].
For example, at the Norisring [in June]
and NĂŒrburgring [in August], he showed
extraordinary determination, and the ability
to withstand pressure before going on to win.
Bearing in mind that Scuderia Toro Rosso
was created with the aim of bringing young
talent from the Red Bull Junior Team into F1
and to educate them. It will now be up to us to
provide Max with a competitive car, which will
enable him to have the best possible start to
his Formula One career.â
So Verstappen has the heritage, results
and backing from Toro Rosso â but will he be
talented and mature enough to jump straight
from F3 to F1?
Itâs a giant leap of faith, dodging a chance
to prove yourself in a higher class like Formula
Renault 3.5 or GP2, before opening up to the
white-hot intensity of F1. The only option is for
Verstappen to get in and deliver. âThere is a lot
more [media attention] than you get in F3, of
course. But it is part of F1, so you have to get
used to it,â says Verstappen. âA racing car is a
racing car, so I think the step from F3 to F1,
driving-wise, is not that big. Itâs just everything
around it. But Iâm in a good situation here with
Toro Rosso to support me in that.â
His team-mate next year will be 20-year-old
Russian hot shot Daniil Kvyat, who has
already played-down the age issue: âI think
we will see how it is going to be,â says Kvyat. âI
IMAGES: Dan Istitene/Getty Images Sander KONING/AFP/Getty Images
Max Verstappen has the right
heritage â and the results to
date. His father is none other
than former F1 journeyman
Joss âThe Bossâ Verstappen â
who drove in 106 Grands Prix
for a variety of teams.
61. 58
NOMADâS
LAND
LEVISON WOOD RECENTLY FINISHED WALKING THE LENGTH OF THE RIVER
NILE, A JOURNEY FROM ITS SOURCE IN RWANDA TO ITS DELTA IN EGYPT.
HERE, ASHWIN BHARDWAJ RECOUNTS JOINING WOOD FOR THE SUDAN
LEG OF HIS EPIC EXPEDITION.
WORDS ASHWIN BHARDWAJ