The magical Kenya...welcome...

1. Visual | Travel | Culture | Document
Loving Africa
The Coast of Kenya
2 1
p A G e s
P H O T O
R EP O RT

2. This Issue we will take you to the
Black Continent! Some of our earliest
human ancestors walked on East African
ground more than two million years ago;
we have explored it and now we take
you on a voyage you have always
dreamed of.....

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A Shiny Pearl
Travelling with all the senses ready to
perceive opens the mind wonderfully. You wish
to find ancient, untouched and magic places.
Flying to Kenya we expected to find them, and
we have found more than that – a land under
the spell.
Our trip starts in Nairobi, but unfortunately, we
had no time to stay there. We should better say
that our trip begins on the road, in a muddy
Land Rover with a plan to visit four marvelous
places. On our way alongside the eastern coast
we came across several European families living
in the bush.
We are on the Diani Beach now, on a
coral wall overlooking the Indian Ocean. Travel-ling
to this place we can recall easily the era of
leisure travel on a grand scale. We have met a
comfortable and glamorous Africa here.

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Alfajiri is a private villa that has earned
reputation for courtesy and knowledge. It is
one of the most notable hotels, a gracious
house, an oasis. Fabrizio Molinaro and his
family have created this dreamlike place.
Actually there are three villas in
Alfajiri: Beach Villa, Garden Villa and Cliff Villa.
All of them have different exterior and interior
decoration. The furniture and artefacts have
been collected in different countries around
the world. The villas share a large, open-sided
living area with a massive makuti roof, as well
as a pool and a bar. Furthermore, there are
more surprises as Alfajiri is a kind of urban oa-sis.
You just have to relax and leave the hosts
think for you.
The space and the views are hard to describe
as it is really difficult to imagine such a luxury
in the middle of the coral beach overlooking
the ocean. The atmosphere is pleasant , quiet
and comfortable. In the world we live, there
is a new prized facet of luxury, that is, the
facet of time. Nowadays time has become the
ultimate luxury – time to reflect, time to enjoy,
time to savor life‘s pleasures, time to simply
sit still. This place gives an appealing impres-sion
of time abundance – it offers to take
advantage of the time to truly relax and enjoy
oneself, friends and family.

6. Any scene in Alfajiri space evokes feelings of
peace and well-being. We enjoy being sur-rounded
by the sun, sea, abundant bird-life,
visiting local villages, playing golf, eating fresh
seafood and handpicked fruit of trees and bu-shes
around Diani. It is obvious that the large
gold sanded beach with Alfajiri`s villas as a
shelter will provide you with a glamorous stay
taking you through the time, from the past
to the present and on. A sweet little luxury
always there to enjoy. Why not?Leaving this
pearl I knew that our next stop was going to
be different, and it really was....

7. Alfajiri Beach
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Island Keys
This time we are on an unspoilt island in the Indian
Ocean. Funzi Keys‘ is tucked away in a beautiful natural
scenery. On the border with Tanzania, Funzi is a
perfect hideaway which provides a shelter of freedom
and complete harmony with the nature.
Cottages or bungalows, set along the high-water line
convert this island in a small idyllic village. Made of
stone and thatch with large netted windows, the bunga-lows
represent that close-to-the-nature ideal. No limits
in the space nor in the mind.

9. This is very important to understand the
concept of Funzi which is to «get funzied» as
Alessandro Torriani, the owner of this Eden on
Earth, has named it. You get funzied within
the space; there is nothing that prevents you
from enjoying the breeze, the air, the scent.
You get funzied with the ocean contemplating
ancestral beauties of the underwater world.
You get funzied with silence around you and
inside you.
«No rules» is the first and the most
important rule here. “Wish” is the first and the
most important word. It permits everybody
here to have an own world (on your own or
accompanied with Torriani‘s family or whoever
of the Funzi‘s friends).
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10. You can spend nights by the fire listening to
Africa in total privacy. Each cottage seems
to be a separate world – it is easy to stay all
alone in this wilderness. However, at the same
time it is so easy to be intimate with whatever
surrounds you whether it is a landscape, an
animal or a person.
You can choose whether you prefer to have
your meal alone or in a company enjoying
Funzi´s traditional cuisine. Funzi simply hu-manizes
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the humans.

11. Life is relaxed here . Take your flip-flops,
a straw hat and go for a walk... or lay down on
the sand with a juicy drink while watching the
local fishing dhow sail by.
Or, you can entertain yourself - enjoy sailing,
creek fishing, snorkeling, windsurfing and
canoeing, or perhaps take a boat trip up the
Ramisi River or Funzi Creek for an unforget-table
glimpse of kingfishers, crocodiles and
even dolphins!
This is the way life goes in the Funzi world.
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Kenya is
Hemingways, too
Thus, being “funzied” we set off for
our next stop, a great adventure place, He-mingways.
An unusual airline takes you (15
minute flight by a light aircraft) from the
hotel‘s own airstrip to Mombasa. On our way
from Funzi Keys to Hemingways we passed
through Mombasa. The city was founded
by the Arab traders in the 11th century and
quickly became the most important trading
centre of the East Africa exporting mostly
ivory and slaves.
Vasco de Gama was the first known European
to visit Mombasa and got a rather cool recep-tion,
in 1498. Two years later the town citizens
were sacked by the Portuguese who built Fort
Jesus. Fort Jesus is a Portuguese fortress built
in 1593 on Mombasa Island to guard the Old
Port of Mombasa. It is built in the shape of a
man, and was given the name of Jesus in an
obvious religious reference.

13. Today, it is one of the finest examples of 16th
century Portuguese military architecture.
The fort quickly became a vital possession for
anyone with the intention of controlling
Mombasa Island. When the British colonised
Kenya, they used it as a prison.
vvvVasco da Gama was responsible for Por-tugal‘
s success as an early colonizing power.
Besides the first voyage itself, it was his astute
mix of politics and war on the other side of the
world that gave Portugal a prominent position
in the Indian Ocean trade. Following de Gama‘s
initial voyage, the Portuguese crown realized
that securing outposts on the eastern coast of
Africa was vital for maintaining their trade
routes to the Far East.
This little trip through the past made me think
of those landscapes history, which is really
immense and very often recalled.
Hemingway makes part of that history as
well... that of ‘20s, 30’s of the XX century.
When-ever we learn about places we find out
that Hemnigway was there; it is not surprising
anymore, moreover, it would be rather weird
to learn that Heningway wasn‘t there ...
Nevertheless, one thing is certain - he must
have enjoyed it a lot here, in Hemingways.

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The name itself suggests a great adventure.
The area of Malindi has been interesting as
a fishing area since the colonial days. The
waters of the Indian Ocean are inhabited by
numerous species, especially those big ones.
Fishermen love this ambience. Hemingways
has always attracted those ones with active
spirits. However, it has always given shelter to
the ones who simply wanted to enjoy it being
in an agreeable horizontal position. It is for all
tastes.
Twenty miles south of Malindi and
sixty miles north of Mombasa, there is a
place overlooking the beach of Watamu
Marine Park. There are few hotels along many
miles of coastline. Hemingways Resort famous
for Big Game Fishing is one of them. Here,
you find a kingdom of the big and silent.
Playful sailfish (locally known as suli,suli),
Striped, Blue and Black Marlin have attracted
many a fisherman. Sharks are often caught
while fishing for Tuna. A rarity that is found in
Kenya is the Great White shark. Broad Bill is
arguably the strongest fighter in the ocean and
Giant Trevally, locally known as Karambesi, is
a slow-growing fish which is generally caught
and released.

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This world is amazing, and perhaps consi-dering
the size of these beasts you get even
more curious, you are eager to learn more
about them. So, we have learnt that Wahoo
is the fastest fish in the sea, then there are
plenty of Kingfish, Barakuda, Dorado, and a
very strong Yellowfin Tuna which always gives
an exciting performance.
Three miles down the coast from
Hemingways there is Mida, a tidal lagoon of
mangrove creeks teeming with exotic bird-life
and the venue for Hemingways‘ Sundowner
cruises on an Arabic dhow.
On the coast of the finest coral reefs there is a
fabulous underwater world for snorkelling and
diving in Hemingways. Just imagine that your
little cruise is accompanied by dolphins.
These are some of the pleasures the ocean
gives, we leave you the rest to discover.

17. Where we want to take you now is to another
journey. The Arabic word safara
meaning «to travel» is an elegant term for
what safari is supposed for many a gentleman
– strong exciting, overflow of emotions.
Or, one of the ways to find oneself – confron-ting
the great and divine nature. I prefer this
rather romantic idea. Anyway, there is a large
excursion menu of safaris to such game sanc-tuaries
as Tsavo East and West National Parks.
Safari of our days is different since we have
changed the objective of the rifle for that of
the camera. This colorful wild world of diffe-rent
shapes is a real pleasure for the sight.
Another excursion could take you to Gede.
Discovered just a few years ago, the remains
of the 13th century, Swahili settlement propo-ses
a journey through the history. Not very far
from Hemingways you can even go for a walk
in a real forest, the Arabuko-Sokoke. Virgin
rain forest is adorned with rare and unique
species, such as Sokoke Scopps owl, a notable
Ancient elephant and shimmering butterflies.
After visiting Gede and a piece of history of this
surprising land, you can pay a visit to the farm
nearby. It is a real live snake farm that produces
venom for the anti*venoms manufacturing.
This time, the time passed rapidly as we were
completely involved in this active Africa. It will
be difficult to forget fun evenings in the
resort with vivid conversations about fishing
and safari, all of them, nature orienated.

18. Felicity In
the Bush
Jill, a European African and, moreover, Kenyan,
tells us her story: « In 1979 a group of friends
visited the mouth of one of the tributaries of
the Tana River, Kenya‘s longest river that origi-nates
on the slopes of Mount
Kenya, and runs through dry lowland in the
north into the largest wetlands of the country.
They had heard that there were amazing
channels, wildlife - including some of Kenya‘s
largest elephants that are fed of the Doum
Palm nuts. Lions, buffalo, bush buck, water
buck, crocodiles and hippos. They were also
amazed at the birdlime. The group was not
disappointed... »
From that experience Renaldo Retief, Jill‘s
husband (who was working on the Tana River,
buying fresh mangoes from the local Pokomo
Farmers for export to Europe), and two friends
- Terry O‘Meara, a surveyor and explorer, and
Charlie McConnell, a tour operator, decided to
put up a camp at the mouth of this tributary.
The camp has grown from a group of ten tents
at the base of the dunes into a lodge with 6
cottages built with local materials of drift-

19. wood, galana stone, hessian palm frond roofs.
King-sized beds evoke past times, those of the
first explorers, and you begin to feel as one of
them, surrounded by wonderful views over the
dunes, sea and delta.
The Tana Delta is tucked into convenient
curves and ridges in the high rampart dunes
separating the delta from the Indian Ocean.
The highest point of the dunes provides the
dreamlike setting for the dining area, with
a platform for watching the sunset and the
stars. No building, no lodge, no other town or
city or village is visible from here, although
you can see for 20-30 kilometres in every
direction. Everything here is
totally different...

20. Arriving in a boat bending the river between
the channels of the delta, and hardly seeing
the thatched roofs of the cottages hidden in
the dunes is already exciting. You know you
will have to search for your room as the rooms
are not set in a neat row! There is a surprise
around every corner – the creation to be
enjoyed.
In the middle of the bushes, tranquil gentle
breeze brings the scents of fresh limes and man-goes.
Mango is the king fruit here. It is so nice to
wake up with thousands of sounds - hundreds
of birds and voices of the river Tana and the
Indian ocean waters. After this nice conversation
it is gorgeous to start a day with a walk or a boat
trip along the channels with a guide who can
lead you in these adventures through the waters
and dunes. The Tana Delta expects its guests to
be very friendly to the nature, interested in envi-ronment
first and foremost; to enjoy the spell of
the Indian ocean beach which stretches for
twenty kilometres with no lodge nor person to
meet on the way; and to savour the freedom, the
silence, the fruits of the earth and the ocean.

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Outside this solitary world there are local commu-nities
fighting with the wildlife that steals their crops. At
the same time these people are aware of the fact that the
wildlife is of great interest and maybe they can turn the
menace into an asset that will sustain them in future.
As friends and guardians of this land, the Tana Delta people
are entrusted with the conservation and protection of the
region and its inhabitants. The Tana Delta is a real friend of
Africa....
In the Tana Delta Dune Lodge there is a community fee that
is a part of the payment. This is 20$ per person per night.
This money goes to the Trust that has been formed bet-ween
the Lodge Management and the local community.
There is a new resident Manager and his wife, Robert and
Sarah O‘Meara. They are also Directors of the Lodge and
have its philosophy and interests at heart. Renaldo and
his wife Jill are working more with the communities, trying
to get their participation in the area conservation up to a
mature understanding.
The EU founded a programme to help the community. The
EU paid for the building of the two community bandas, built
in the same style as the cottages at the Lodge, but smaller.
These bandas are quite away from the Lodge, nearer to the
communities, and the visitors may stay in. The villagers are
learning to take a full responsibility for their guests, their
rooms and take the guests on boat trips to see the hippos
and crocodiles. The money they receive will be used for the
community‘s benefit.
There are different tribes that can be found while visiting
local villages. Orma tribe are cattle farmers with large herds
of Boran cattle that are fed of the grassland and water from
the Tana River, and occasionally get grabbed by the crocodi-les.
Then, there are the Pokomo, who are mainly horticultu-ralists
and live on the river. Their main product is mangoes
which they used to export to Europe, but big multinational
companies have overtaken them. Renaldo is helping them
in looking for a new market to sell their fruit.
Fortunately, there are no cities nearby. The nearest is Ma-lindi
which is 70 kilometres away. But it is another story to
tell.
Life is going well at the Tana Delta.....There is a pride of lion
that is living near the camp and drinking from the swim-ming
pool. There was also a python that ate a Civet cat in
the camp compound two weeks ago.
Life goes well wherever there is a soul to follow it. And it
can be stated that Tana Delta has it. The soul.
After the Tana experience you can‘t help asking
yourself: and what now? Nevertheless, as you get to another
place you just understand that there are so many precious
worlds....existing on their own.
Finally you realize that a travel is not just a mere pleasant
excursion. This idea made me think of Margaret Fuller, an
American writer, who, writing about Italy, if I am not mista-ken,
says that Italy is so beautiful, worth of being loved and
embraced, not spoken about.
Anyway it was a great pleasure to tell you this story. And
you, you can always love it and embrace it.
Credits: Photos : Jesús Lopez
Text: Angelina Mrakic
Art direction: Eyck Liefold
Hotels | Places: Alfajiri : www.alfajirivillas.com
The Funzi Keys : www.thefunzikeys.com
Hemingways Resort : www.hemingwaysco.ke
The Tana Delta : www.tanadelta.org