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Culinary Journey
   Mapping the historical reservoir of
Vietnamese, Malaysian and Indonesian
              Cuisines


              November 2011




           “Crafting Winning Strategy
                                         1
          Based on Consumer Insight”
Flow of the Presentation


   Section 1 :
    The Starting Point
    Objective of the Presentation

   Section 2 : Vietnam, Malaysia, Indonesia
        Country Overview
        Tracing the historical reservoir
        Tracing historical reservoir of the cuisine
          today & and the sensorial

   Section 3: Marketing Implications
Section 1




            3
The Starting Point : Food & Culture

  • Apart from satisfying biological needs, food is also
    an expression of culture/ historical reservoir i.e.
      • An essential symbolic function of food is cultural
        identity. Beyond self-identification, incorporation of
        food can signify collective association.
      • What one eats defines who one is, culturally
        speaking, and, conversely, who one is not. In the
        Middle East, for example, a person who eats pork is
        probably Roman Catholic or Orthodox Christian, not
        Jewish or Muslim.
  • While most people believe that consumers make
    consumption choices based on personal preferences
    Bourdieu (1984) showed that consumer preferences
    are highly predictable once their economic status &
    cultural capital is known.


                                                                 4
Objective of this Presentation


  Based on the indelible link between Food & Culture :




    • Help provide a “birds eye perspective” of the
        historical reservoir of local Vietnamese,
           Malaysian and Indonesian cuisine.
         • Map implications for marketers




                                                         5
Research Approach : Secondary Data & IDI’s


   • Discussions with NUS Post Scholars: Dr. Nir Avieli
   • Secondary Research.
       • Food & Culture – Kittler/Sucher
       • Davidson, Alan. The Oxford Companion to Food. Oxford: Oxford University
          Press, 1999
       • Goody, Jack. Cooking, Cuisine, and Class: A Study in Comparative Sociology.
          Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1982.
       • Ling, Kong Foong. The Food of Asia. Singapore: Periplus, 1998
       • Robson, J. R. K., ed. Food, Ecology, and Culture: Readings in the Anthropology of
          Dietary Practices. New York: Gordon and Breach, 1980.
       • Owen, Sri. Indonesian Regional Food and Cookery. London and New York:
          Doubleday, 1994.
       • Owen, Sri. The Rice Book: The Definitive Book on the Magic of Rice Cookery.
          London: Transworld, 1993.
       • Rice Talks: A study of food and culture in Vietnam by Dr.Nir Avieli, 2003
                                                                                       6
The Research Framework Used:


 Role of food within a culture is a function of:

 (1) the frequency of food consumption, as
     described through the core and complementary
     foods model;
 (2) the ways in which a culture traditionally
     prepares and seasons its foods, as examined by
     flavor principles;
 (3) the daily, weekly, and yearly use of food, as
     found in meal patterns and meal cycles;
 (4) changes in food functions that emerge during
     structural growth in a culture.



                                                      Kittler P G , Sucher K P Diabetes Spectr
                                                      2004;17:200-204
Section 3a- Vietnam




                      9
Overview of Vietnam

                                                     Vietnam
                                                     Population:
                                                     Over 83 million - 85% ethnic
                                                     Vietnamese, 3% ethnic Chinese,
                                                     members of 55 ethno-linguistic
                                                     groups.
                                                     Languages: Vietnamese,
                                                     French, Chinese, English and
                                                     local dialects.
                                                     Religions: Buddhism, Taoism,
                                                     Confucianism, Hoa Hao, Cao
                                                     Dai, Muslim and Christian
                                                     minorities




Food forms a critical part of fabric of Vietnamese life In fact a closer look reveals that the
shape of country resembles two rice baskets on a rice pole. Further exemplified by their
greeting “Eat tet”i.e. “Have you eaten”? Many proverbs anchored on Food -Father eats
salty food, the children will be thirsty." = Bad actions will later bring bad luck/consequences
to descendants, . Eating lying down= A rather polite folksy way of saying having sex.
                                                                                           10
Tracing the Historical Reservoir of Vietnam


                                          Time Line


   300BC :        •111BC-938 CE-    •10-15 century   •13th century CE-   •Early 16th century –
                                    Indian           Mongol Invasion     Portuguese and other
•Dong Son         •Chinese          Buddhist
culture           Domination        influenced       •1292 CE – Marco    European traders and
• Wet rice        with occasional   Champas in       Polo visits 13th    Missionaries
farming,          resistance from   Central and      century-Japanese    •1858- 1954- French
domestication     the Viets         South Vietnam    and Chinese trade   Invasion followed by
of water
buffalo, bronze                                      begins and          formation of French
casting                                              flourishes          Indochina




                                                                                                 11
Historical Reservoir drawn from ….

                                     Indian
                                 Stemming from
        Chinese Domination
                                 Hindu-Buddhist
                                    Champas


                                    French
           Rest of Asia
                                Stemming from
        :Cambodia / Malay
                                  colonialism



     The Viets have through the decades sought to establish their unique & separate
  identity; specially in context of the Chinese. The Vietnamese value system is based on
 four closely interelated tenets: allegiance to the family, yearning for a good name, love
 of learning, and respect for other people. Vietnamese's daily behaviors and perceptions
  are influenced from the synthesis of concepts which may be followed from numerous
                  religions, specially Confucianism, Buddhism and Taoism


                                                                                        12
Vietnamese Cuisine




                     13
The Story of the Rice Cake: “Purity & Most Basic Ingredients”




 “Two kinds of cakes: one was round and the other was square in shape. The round cake was
    made with glutinous rice dough and was called "banh day" by Tiet-Lieu. He named the
 square shaped cake "banh chung" which he made with rice, green beans wrapped in leaves.
    Rice is the most precious food item in the land and yet also the most abundant. I have
 created dishes that symbolize the harmony between the earth and heaven so that all of our
                                      people can enjoy.”
                                                                                    14
Vietnam : Mapping The Core and Complementary Foods
Model
                                                                                             Seasonings
         Ingredients                                                        Herbs : Basil, Coriander,
    Rice and Noodles                                                       Mint, lemongrass, Lime leaves, dill, spring
    Wheat, Mung beans                                                       onions, Spearmint,
    Vegetables, Beef,                                                      Vietnamese Mint
     Chicken, Duck, Pork,                                                   Sauces : Fish sauce, Soy sauce,
    Fish and shrimp, Tofu                                                  Shrimp paste, Hot chilly sauce
                                                                            Black Pepper, Chilly


  Snacks/Sweets/
       Feasts
 Fruits, Tapioca
   Flour,                                                                               Foods eaten sporadically, by
 Mung Bean paste,                                                                      individual preference, not a
   sugar,                                                                               cultural habit
 Sesame seeds,
   Coconut milk




                                                                              Kittler P G , Sucher K P 2004;17:200-204




 Snacks are often purchased from street vendors. Popular handheld snacks include spring rolls or pork meatballs on a
   stick. These foods and pho (beef noodle soup) are the equivalent of fast food in Vietnamese cities. Also common
   between meals are sweet fruits and ice cream, introduced during the Vietnam War era (1960s and 1970s). Another
   "imported" snack food is a baguette with pâté, a holdover from the years when Vietnam was a colony of France.
Dynamics of a meal

  •Meals are taken communally; using bowls, chopsticks and
  ceramic spoons, and is accompanied by an array of sauces,
  flavorings, dips, salads.

  •A meal is a complete entity with many dishes –there is no
  concept of ‘courses’ apart from ‘soup’ .

  •Eating out in Vietnam is far more common than in Western
  countries – usually, only the main evening meal is cooked at
  home. Breakfast is a light meal, but is considered important .
  Street breakfast in towns and cities of the north is mostly a
  variation of ‘pho’. Lunch is usually taken at a ‘com bui’.There is
  no tradition of ‘desserts’ in Vietnam.




                                                                       17
Tet – The Feast


  Tet marks the beginning of a new year on the
   lunar calendar, and the beginning of Spring.
   Food plays a major role in the Tet
   celebration. Tet is a time of excess, one does
   not enjoy Tet, one "eats" Tet.
  3 or 5 duck eggs is offered to ancestors who
   have returned to their homes.
  Sticky rice and salt are also offered in the
   streets to any hungry ghosts who might be
   wandering in the neighbourhood.




                                                    18
Key Influences on Vietnamese Food


                           Rest of Asia              Indian                French
      Chinese             :Cambodia /                    Via             Stemming from
                            Thailand             Indianised Khmers         colonialism


 Chopsticks, wok,       From Cambodia,           The Indianised       Introduced the
 stir frying,           Vietnamese                kingdom of          Baguette and pâté,
 steaming, braising     adopted Bo Hoc         Champa gave the        this with local
 and clay pot           (Prahok), a central    Vietnamese curry.      stuffing became
 stewing. Dishes like   ingredient of a rice
 Wonton, dumpling,      noodle soup called      Ca ri is a popular    BanhMi. Introduced
 Ka tieu, wheat         bun Nuoc leo.            dish in central      Onions, Potatoes,
 noodles, Popiah,       From the Thais,            and South          Tarragon,
 youtiao, Baozi,        the Vietnamese              Vietnam.          asparagus, Coffee
 Yangzhou Fried rice    adopted Xoi                                   with cream, milk,
 etc .                  Xoai(Mango sticky                             butter, custards,
 Adaptations- The       rice) and Lau                                 and cakes
 Chinese soy sauce      thai(Hotpot), very
 has been replaced      popular in Saigon.     Yin & Yang has a significant influence on
 by Nuoc mam or                                           Vietnamese Food
 fish sauce and Nuoc
 Cham                                                                                      19
Incorporation of The Principal of Yin & Yang


The principle of yin and yang as represented in Taoism by the Taijitu
influences the Vietnamese food habits significantly. Influence :
Principal of Yin and Yang, seek to match dishes with
seasonal/climatic conditions and current physical state of the
diners.

 Duck meat is considered "cool" so is served in summer, which is
  hot, and with ginger fish sauce, which is "warm." On the other
  hand, chicken, which is "warm," and pork, which is "hot," are
  used in cold winters.
 Seafood ranging from "cool" to "cold" is suitable to use with
  ginger ("warm").
 Spicy, which is extremely yang, must be harmonized by sour,
  which is extremely yin.
 Balut- "Hột vịt lộn," meaning “Upside-down egg" ("cold"), must
  be combined with Vietnamese mint "Rau răm" ("hot").
 Cold and flu patients must drink ginger water ("hot").

                                                                        20
Sensorial – Vast Regional Diversity




            North                         Central                        South

 •   Less Spicy, Fewer          •Spicier than North            •More flavorsome and varied
     spices/herbs.              •Multiple dishes around Rice   •Hot chilies
 •   More MSG                   owing to a history of royal
 •   Black pepper for hotness   tradition                      • Coconut milk
 •   Preference for beef        •Glutinous rice                •Tropical fruits
                                •Vegetarian Buddhist           • raw vegetables
                                tradition, so many             • herbs
                                vegetarian dishes



Vietnamese food is fresh and light. Appeals to senses via Five spices, Five types of
    nutrients, Five colors - attractive to the eye, crispy and crunchy, spices on the
  tongue, aromatic herbs and touch. Ideal meal needs to have a balance between
        spicy (metal), sour (wood), bitter (fire), salty (water) and sweet (earth)
                                                                                        21
Thus in Sum

  Purity, freshness, balance of Yin & Yang key to Vietnamese
   cuisine.
  Rice , Fish and Vegetables form the core of the Vietnamese
   meals. The largest influence on Vietnamese has been that of
   Chinese (largely on the cooking styles, core and
   complementary food) & the French (largely on the peripheral
   and secondary food; exception Banhmi)
  Food Sensorials:
     Well rounded taste profile,
     Aromatic owing to herbs and vegetables
     Mouth Feel: Light , fresh and crunchy
     Colors : Attractive
     Flavor: Fish Soy Sauce
  Traditional to Adapted Food:
     Chinese :Fish Sauce
     French : BanhMi


                                                                 22
Section 2b- Indonesia




                        23
Overview of Indonesia




  Indonesian culture has been shaped by long interaction between original indigenous
 customs and multiple foreign influences. Owing to its vantage position on along ancient
   trading routes between the Far East and the Middle East has resulted in a complex
          cultural mixture very different from the original indigenous cultures.
                                                                                     24
Historical Reservoir drawn from ….


    Chinese                   Arab
  Stemming from
                         Stemming from
                                                      Indian
     trade and                                   Stemming from trade
                       trade and scholars
     migration



                  Portuguese                  Dutch
                   Spanish                  Stemming from
                    Traders                   colonialism




 Indian merchants brought Hindu Buddhist religions whereas Chinese traders and immigrants
  contributed Confucianism and the Arab Traders Islam. These contrasting influences in turn
  resulted in the archipelago exhibiting high level of heterogeneity. Therefore an island like
  Bali remains predominantly Hindu and the rest of the world’s most populous Islamic nation
            continues to respect its earlier animist, Hindu and Buddhist traditions.

                                                                                         25
Impact on Indonesian Cuisine




                               26
Rice Integral to Life and Well Being..




   Dewi Sri is believed to have dominion over the underworld and the Moon. Thus, Dewi
    Sri encompasses the whole spectrum of the Mother Goddess- having dominion over
  birth and Life: she controls rice: the staple food of Indonesians; hence life and wealth or
   prosperity; most especially rice surpluses for the wealth of kingdoms in Java; and their
   inverse: poverty, famine, hunger, disease (to a certain extent) and Death. She is often
                            associated with the rice paddy snake .
                                                                                          27
The Dynamics of Home Eaten Meal

•   Indonesian tables generally bear not only serving platters
    with dishes to be shared and individual plates or bowls but
    also little satellite dishes for dipping sauces, spices, chopped
    herbs, and relishes like shrimp paste and fish sauce. Each
    diner has the right and freedom to fine-tune the dish to his or
    her individual taste by dipping, pouring, mixing, and
    sprinkling
•   Close look at different aspects of a meal :
     •   Preparation
           – Rural Areas typically done by the lady of the house
           – Urban- Lady of the house & domestic help
           – Food could be freshly cooked or in the morning
     •   Presentation
           – Rice coupled with a couple of meat/seafood and/or
             vegetables the norm. All the dishes are served at the same
             time.
           – Crunchies like Keropak
     •   Consumption
           – Family usually eats together.                                28
Food & Social Status in Indonesia


Economically
   more
  affluent

                  Difference lies in
                                       Variety and richness of
                 number of dishes/
                                          food on table key
                  desserts. Rice &
                                        indicator of affluence
                   meats remain
                      common


Economically
less affluent

                 Home                          Celebration/
                Prepared                       Selamantan



                                                                 29
Indonesia: Mapping The Core and Complementary Foods
 Model
                                                           Seasonings
           Ingredients                        Fresh: Red shallots, galangal,
      Rice                                    Turmeric. Garlic, spring onions,
      Ambon – Sago                            ginger, lemon grass, Kaffir lime,
      Irian Jaya-Sweet                        Pandan, Chinese celery
       Potato, Cassava, Corn                  Dried: Coriander seeds, cardamom,
      Seafood, Chicken,                       cinnamon, cumin and fennel, chilies
       beef,                                  Tamarind water, Lime juice and
      Vegetables                              Vinegar
                                              Terasi -fermented shrimp paste




      Snacks/Sweets/                             Foods eaten
           Feasts                                sporadically, by
   Fruits, Tapioca Flour,                        individual
   Mung bean paste,                              preference, not a
   Palm Sugar,Cane                               cultural habit
       sugar
    Sesame seeds,
   coconut milk



Kittler P G , Sucher K P 2004;17:200-204
Key Influences on Indonesian Food


    Chinese                  Arab                 Indian           Portuguese/Sp              Dutch
   Stemming from
 trade and migration
                       Stemming from trade   Stemming from trade   anish Traders             Colonies


 Soybean, noodles      Arab traders and      Indian merchants      Portuguese              Dutch planted
 and stir-frying.      scholars              brought curries       brought chili        tomatoes, cabbage,
 Vegetables like       introduced kebabs     and dried spices      peppers from the     cauliflower, carrots,
 Oriental radish,      and Arabian spices    like cardamom,        Americas             radish, green beans
 Chinese cabbage,      The Arab traders      cumin and caraway.                          lettuce and coffee
 horse tamarind,       bought the            Vegetables            Spanish introduced
 bean sprouts and      concept of halal      cucumbers,            corn and chili        Also contributed
 broad leaved          meat.                 eggplants and         peppers                pastry, cakes,
 mustard.                                    onions                                      cookies , bread,
 Soybean paste                                                                           cheese & steaks
 (tauco) and tahu
 (Tofu).
   The tempeh                                                                           The Dutch invented
  (Soybean cake         Kebabs became           Curry, Stews                            the Rijstaffel based
    with whole                                                                                 on the
   beans) is an             Satay
    Indonesian                                                                             Selamantan- 32
    adaptation,                                                                          celebration meal
   Kecap Manis
Sensorial – Vast Regional Diversity



           Sumatra                                                              Java

  Very high use of spices and                                            Overall taste profile
        aromatic herbs                                                  skewed towards sweet
                                                                      Every dish seems to have a
                                                                         few spoons of Kecap
   Minangkabau cuisine from                                            Manis(sweet Soy sauce).
  West Sumatra is known for
   its fiery-hot, spicy Padang
  cuisine. They use hot chilies                                         Use of aromatic herbs,
          with abandon!                                                  sourness and spice
                                                                              moderate

    Diversity in sensorial key example: the tribes in Borneo mostly retain their indigenous
     foods. Further islands across the archipelago exhibit island specific preferences. In a
    country with such diverse food traditions, the food sensorials can be broadly described
                                  as spicy, aromatic and rich.
                                                                                           33
Thus in Sum

 Indonesian cuisine as it exists today is a potpourri of
  different cuisines. However what is unique to Indonesia
  is the diversity in flavors that are seen across the country.

 Rice , poultry, mutton & seafood and vegetables form
  the core of the Indonesian meals. The largest influence
  has been that of Chinese , Arab and Indians (largely on
  the cooking styles, core and complementary food). Dutch
  influence limited to ingredients and secondary/
  peripheral foods.

 Food Sensorials:
    Overall taste profile- spicy, aromatic & rich

 Key Adaptations :
    Chinese :Tempeh, Kecap Manis
    Arabs : Satay, Halal
    Indians: Spices & “biryani adaptations”

                                                                  35
Section 3c- Malaysia




                       36
Overview of Malaysia




    Owing to its unique vantage position fusion characterizes all facets of Malaysian
    culture. A unified Malaysian culture is however something only emerging in the
  country. The important social distinction in the emergent national culture is between
  Malay and non-Malay, represented by : the Malay elite that dominates the country's
                      politics, and the largely Chinese middle class.
                                                                                     37
Historical Reservoir drawn from ….


                             Thai/
   Chinese                Indonesian               Indian
  Stemming from                                  Stemming from
     trade and             Stemming from            trade and
     migration              Geographical            migration
                              proximity




                     Arab                  Europeans
                  Stemming from            Stemming from
                      trade                  colonialism




 Kinship a key facet of Malaysian Culture evidenced by “Kampong spirit.” Integral part even
      today of village life; has however seen erosion in recent times in urban centers .
     Socialization with “family & community” key. Family integral to simple & good life.
  Legends abound in adventure and sagas about fairies, heroes, magic curses and heavenly
                                       celestial beings.

                                                                                      38
Malaysian Cuisine




                    39
Meal Dynamics..

  No concept of courses, food is eaten /served
  simultaneously.
    Preparation: Typically done by mother; often ladies
     from two generation i.e. grandmother/ mother
    Presentation: Rice coupled with a couple of
     meat/seafood and/or vegetables the norm. Condiments
     used include a small crunchy salad, pickled vegetables
     & sambal condiment
    Consumption: Family usually eats together.
 Preference for freshly cooked meals high
   Urban centers there is a growing preference for fast
      food; in rural areas, local cuisine still preferred.
   With people increasingly traveling long distances to
      work coupled with women increasingly joining the
      workforce the hawker food is being increasingly seen
      as a substitute for a home cooked meal. Packaged &
      supermarket are also seen as viable alternatives
                                                              40
Food & Social Status:


Economically
   more
  affluent

                                            Variety on table key
                 Variety on table key
                                           indicator of affluence
                indicator of affluence
                                         Difference lies in number
                 Rice & meats remain
                                          of meat & vegetable &
                       common
                                              deserts served.



Economically
less affluent

                   Home                           Celebration
                  Prepared                     Fasting & Feasting



                                                                     41
Malaysia: Mapping The Core and Complementary Foods
 Model
                                           Seasonings
      Core Ingredients                     Herbs: Lemongrass, shallots, ginger,
 Rice and Noodles                         Chilies, garlic, galangal, Turmeric, Kaffir
 Breads                                   Lime, Laksa, Pandan leaves
 Seafood- Fish, shrimps &                 Spices: Fennel, Cumin, Coriander,
 cuttlefish,                               cardamom, cloves, Star anise, Mustard,
 Meat: chicken, mutton,                   cinnamon, fenugreek, Nutmeg,
 beef                                      Sambal and Sambal belacan
 Vegetables                                Tamarind, Mango, Asam, Carambola,
                                           Lemon and coconut



     Snacks/Sweets/                              Foods eaten
    Feasts                                      sporadically, by
    Cakes and                                   individual preference,
     desserts made of                            not a cultural habit
     Coconut milk,
     palm sugar,
     glutinous rice etc.




Kittler P G , Sucher K P 2004;17:200-204
Isolating Key Influences on Malaysian Food



    Chinese            Thai/Indonesia                Indian                 Arab              Europeans
   Stemming from          Stemming from         Stemming from trade                            Stemming from
                                                                      Stemming from trade
 trade and migration   Geographical proximity      and migration                                 colonialism



 •Noodles              •Northern                •Cooking              •The Arab             •Jellies and
 •Tofu                 Malaysian food           techniques of
 • Soups                                                              traders bought        colorants to
 •Nyonya Food          has a Thai flavor        frying spices in      the concept of        deserts.
 or Straits            due to geography         oil . Vegetables      halal meat.
 Chinese food –        and cultural             like okra, purple     Even today            •Grilling as a
 resulted owing        interaction              eggplants,
 to marriages                                                         import of meats       cooking
 between               •Herbs/flavours          brown mustard,        is minimal.           technique
 Chinese               •Negri Sembilan,         fenugreek and         •Also pork is not
 immigrants            once dominated           curry leaves.         consumed by
 and locals and        by Minangkabaus          •Breads/ Rotis
 is a blend of                                                        Malay Muslims.
 Chinese and           enjoys a Sumatra         •Curry
 local flavors         flavor of coconut        •Spice Mixtures       •Kebabs became
                       milk, beef and           •Mee Goreng           Satay.
                       bird eye chilies         and Nasi kandar
                                                                                                               44
Thus Sensorials…



    Chinese                 Thai                                                        Europeans
   Stemming from
                         Stemming from          Indian                 Arab             Stemming from
                          Geographical     Stemming from trade   Stemming from trade
 trade and migration                                                                      colonialism
                            proximity


 Overall profile        Overall profile     Overall profile       Overall profile      Overall profile
    bland.               aromatic but           spicy.              bland and             bland.
  High reliance         taste profile is                            aromatic.
 on “essence” of         well balanced       Use of spices        Owing to use
     meat &               despite high     very high. Herbs       of spices high
   vegetables.          use of chilies &   average. Cooking      but is tempered
  Use of herbs               herbs.          Techniques-           with use of
 average. Spices         A function of          Frying           cream & cheese
  usage lower            coconut base



                       Overall profile aromatic and very spicy/tangy.
                            Use of spices and herbs very high
                                                                                                         45
Thus in Sum

 Process of “acculturation or “Traditional to adopted
  foods’ is key to Malaysian cuisine. “Fusion a hallmark“
  across all spheres of its culture including food .
 Rice , poultry, mutton & seafood and vegetables form
  the core of the Malaysian meals. The largest influence
  has been that of Chinese , Thai and Indians (largely on
  the cooking styles, core and complementary food). Arab
  contribution limited to halal meat & satay- a key
  secondary food
 Food Sensorials:
    Overall spicy taste profile,
    Aromatic owing to herbs and vegetables
    Mouth Feel: Fried , rich , spicy & tangy owing to
       coconut, spices & tamarind
 Key Adaptations :
    Chinese :Nyonya Food
    Arabs : Satay, Halal
    Indians: Spices & “biryani adaptations”

                                                            46
Dairy Food Products- “Historical Reservoir”




                                              47
History of Dairy…




    Traditionally a non-dairying region The history of dairy consumption in South
                   East Asia is very short, but with an upward trend.




                                                                                    48
Introduction of Dairy …


                Malaysia & Indonesia : Colonial Trade brought early import of
                canned sweetened milk to Indonesia(1875), then Malaysia. This milk
                was ideal for long-distance trade as it keeps relatively well in the heat.
                      Adoption Triggers :
                           Imported for Europeans first, it spread to local elite, then
                             throughout the population, as the small tin price
                             decreased.
                           In addition, milk kitchens set up by the Dutch in towns and
                             cities provided sweetened condensed milk for infants who
                             didn’t get mother’s milk.
                   Around 1901, Nestlé's sales network was marketing the product
                     in Javanese villages.


              Vietnam : Colonials brought the first dairy cows at the end of 18th
               century. US army commissioned Ice cream factories in 60’s and 70s.
                                                                                     49
Key Barriers …Historical Perspective

                                Lactose Intolerance
                                     In these regions, large proportions of the
                                       population are lactose intolerant.
                                     With time decline being seen in lactose
                   Genetics            intolerance; function of increased
                                       exposure to milk?

                                Easily available dairy substitutes
          Substitutes                    Soy milk, coconut milk & Tofu seen as
                                            substitutes for dairy milk
                                Negative Milk Perceptions and Poor Sensorials
                   Product              Milk seen as a “body excretion” thus
                 Perception &
                  Sensorials             mental barriers specially in Vietnam
                                         where cattle were used for draught
                                         power, manure and meat production
                                         but not for milk or dairy.
                                        Milk and other dairy products
                                         associated with a smell
                                                                           50
Current Picture: Fast growing markets, per capita
consumption low..



                                  Key Growth Triggers
                                  • Rising per capita income
                                  • Increasing association of milk and nutrition needed for a
                                    growing child
                                  • Product range beyond liquid milk; not a part of SEA diet
                                  • Government schemes for infant feeding, targeted school
                                    milk program
                                  • Western influence has resulted in higher use of cheese &
                                    butter




      Fastest Growing Markets, Significantly lower versus Europe/ America and even per capita
      consumption in India.For example : In Vietnam per capita has grown from around 1 kg to 10
                                                kg now
But…Within the Core & Complementary Foods Framework…


                                               Role of Milk & other dairy products however
                                               not integral to Core & Complementary foods

                                                Seek to make dairy based offerings a part of
                                                 core (substitute to tofu?) or complementary
                                                 food (dairy based flavor enhancers?)

                                                Market Development:
                                                      Strengthen benefits : Recent
                                                        anthropological studies in China show
                                                        milk perceived as integral for child ‘s
                                                        growth and nutrition; seek to establish
                                                        similar connect with other age
                                                        segments not just children
                                                      Burst Myths if widespread address
    Kittler P G , Sucher K P Diabetes Spectr
    2004;17:200-204                                     myths via support of trusted, credible
                                                        authority support:
                                                           Government
                                                           Celebrity Endorsement
But…Within the Core & Complementary Foods Framework…


                                               Role of Milk & other dairy products however
                                               not integral to Core & Complementary foods

                                                       RTB Simplification : Given stage of
                                                        development need to understand if
                                                        there exists a case for simplification of
                                                        RTB ?

                                                       Lactose Intolerance: On ground
                                                        activation ideas to push products that
                                                        can be consumed by a lactose
                                                        intolerant consumers like yogurt etc.

                                                       Sampling : On ground sampling of
                                                        products that help address “negative
    Kittler P G , Sucher K P Diabetes Spectr
    2004;17:200-204                                     milk sensorials” eg. UHT milk by adding
                                                        additives flavors like chocolate,
                                                        banana, strawberry etc, powder milk
                                                        etc..
Key Implications




                   54
Implication 1-(1/4)

  Key Observations :

   Most Southeast Asian societies have been in contact with each other and with other
    societies, such as India and China,
       Owing to colonialism, trade, influx of scholars & geographical proximity.
       Significant Chinese populations across these markets – hence have strong
         Chinese dietary strains in their cuisines.

   While this resulted in “acculturation” i.e. the process of adopting the cultural traits
    or social patterns of another group ; the emergent codes specifically in context of
    food were not homogeneous
       Thus within Southeast Asia food serves as an ethnic and national marker,
         distinguishing one group from another.
       Heterogeneity stems from the way people think, work, survive, and express
         themselves; the economic surplus of the country of focus; social forces and the
         countries' indigenous cultures.


                                                                                        55
Implications 1- (2/4)


 Acculturation is a fourfold model along two dimensions.



                              Assimilation            Integration
                                High- Low              High- High
  Indigenous Host
 Culture Absorption

                              Marginalization          Separation
                                                           Low -High



                                    Donor Culture Retention




                                                                       56
Implications 1- (3/4)


 Acculturation Model examples in the context of Food:



                             Assimilation               Integration Chinese
                                                        Fried Rice & Indian
                             Satay/ Laksa
                                                        Biryani Adaptations
  Indigenous Host
 Culture Absorption                                         Separation
                                                    Chinese dialect groups &
                             Marginalization       the tribes in the rain forests
                                                            of Borneo


                                   Retaining Donor Culture




                                                                                    57
Implications 1 - (4/4)

   Implication 1: Host or Donor Countries as Source of Ideas for Innovation ?

   Thus :For every country of focus the countries marketers should seek to identify food
   categories that are “assimilated, integrated or separationist” and for each of these then
   seek to understand consumers in both the donor & recipient countries as a possible
   source of innovation ideas.

   Areas that could be explored could be anchored in
             Ingredients
             Seasonings
             Cooking Style & Medium

   In fact marketers could establish protocols using research techniques like Neuro
   Linguistic Processing to understand taste expectations from host & donor country &
   then develop options for each.



                                                                                         58
Implications 2 - (1/2)

Observation 2 :

 Food within Southeast Asia serves as a ethnic & national marker, distinguishing one group
  from another. But despite the diversity, distinct commonalities exist.
    •All throughout the region, rice forms the core food, is the basis of cakes, desserts and
    other snacks. Rice as staff of life— food that shapes tastes and dietary patterns—certainly
    is a common denominator.
    •The flavor of coconut at all its stages is savored throughout the region.
    •Ingredients like coconut milk, lemon grass, galingale, ginger, Asian basil, mint, fish sauce,
    and shrimp paste are used throughout the region; although the proportion varies.

Implication: Thus processed food manufacturers should consider exploring the “mass
customization” for offering core complimentary or secondary food solutions for the region i.e.
Mass customization is the method of "effectively postponing the task of differentiating a
product for a specific customer until the latest possible point in the supply network.”




                                                                                             59
An example of “Range of Offerings – To meet diverse needs”
(2/2)




   Ultimate goal would be to offer solutions that individuals / local diners can customize
             to their tastes & preferences at the time of cooking/ on the table.

  This process of customizing to ones palate is core to the region and each diner has the
      right and freedom to fine tune his dish to his or her individual taste by dipping,
                     pouring, mixing, and sprinkling sauce/condiments.
                                                                                        60
Implication 3 -(1/2)

  Observation 3 : Influences on cuisine from the donor country are imbibed by the host
   country through the process of acculturation that involves:
      Retaining : Retaining certain elements that are core & indigenous to its culture
       (stemming from social & economic reasons). Example : use of palm sugar in
       Malaysia for desserts, use of fish sauce in Vietnam etc.
      Fusion : Customizing overseas influences with local preferences i.e. Kebabs to Satay
       or soy sauce with sugar etc.

  Implication 3:
      All successful innovation for multicultural communities needs to mimic this process.
        Thus for each category of interest at the outset, the flavor house must identify:
           Are there any core preferences that are integral to that category for the locals.
             These core preferences can be identified via heuristics- i.e. thumb rules that
             consumers use in decision making. If an ingredient/ cooking style is integral
             for the product meeting a key thumb rule it should be defined as core.
           Explore innovation ideas that look to impact the “non core elements of the
             dish” via looking at opportunities for fusion of local food preferences with
             overseas food trends.
                                                                                         61
Elucidating the Example (2/2)




    Lays a winning example of retaining the core but yet innovating to suite local palate
                                       preferences.



                                                                                            62
Key implications 4 (1/1)

  Observation 4: In a lot of food categories “source of origin”
   stories are leveraged for credibility and authenticity to
   ensure relevance and differentiation in the mind of the
   consumer.


  Implication 4 :

       Source of origin stories can be further strengthened by
        looking at “origins” that trace the historical reservoir of
        the dish/ ingredient .

       Specially for assimilated foods maybe pertinent to talk
        about the process of “fusion” of the food in the local
        cuisine . This maybe specifically relevant to markets
        like Indonesia & Malaysia where adaptation of cusines
        from other countries has been widespread.

                                                                      63
Key implication 5 (1/2)

  PACKAGING IMPLICATIONS

  When it comes to food purity and tasty are generics that the overall positioning of the
   brand & the packaging must deliver upon.

  However, if one were to suggest guidelines inputs based on an analysis of the historical
   reservoir some thoughts are:
      Food is seen as having an indelible link with life, purity, freshness and simplicity
        key. This should be captured in packaging & positioning of the brands.

       Yin & Yang balance of ingredients also remains an under-explored opportunity for
        food manufacturers

       In Malaysia & Indonesia given the adaptation & fusion “authenticity of taste maybe
        should be accorded a higher weightage




                                                                                              64
Elucidating the Example (2/2)




                                Indelible link of the food with
                                life, purity, freshness and
                                simplicity stands well
                                captured in the packaging of
                                the local players




                                                            65
Implication 6

 Observation 5 : Migration Going Forward:
  There are now 215m first-generation migrants around the
   world: that’s 3% of the world’s population. If they were a
   nation, it would be a little larger than Brazil. There are
   more Chinese people living outside China than there are
   French people in France. Some 22m Indians are scattered
   all over the globe. Small concentrations of ethnic and
   linguistic groups have always been found in surprising
   places—Lebanese in west Africa, Japanese in Brazil and
   Welsh in Patagonia, for instance—but they have been
   joined by newer ones, such as west Africans in southern
   China.- Source Economist

 Implication 5: This is currently & more so in the future likely
 to give rise to adopted foods. Thus food marketers need to
 track and monitor these migrants to decide their portfolios &
 innovation strategies in times to come

                                                                   66
Thank you!




             67

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Culinary Journey

  • 1. Culinary Journey Mapping the historical reservoir of Vietnamese, Malaysian and Indonesian Cuisines November 2011 “Crafting Winning Strategy 1 Based on Consumer Insight”
  • 2. Flow of the Presentation Section 1 :  The Starting Point  Objective of the Presentation Section 2 : Vietnam, Malaysia, Indonesia  Country Overview  Tracing the historical reservoir  Tracing historical reservoir of the cuisine today & and the sensorial Section 3: Marketing Implications
  • 4. The Starting Point : Food & Culture • Apart from satisfying biological needs, food is also an expression of culture/ historical reservoir i.e. • An essential symbolic function of food is cultural identity. Beyond self-identification, incorporation of food can signify collective association. • What one eats defines who one is, culturally speaking, and, conversely, who one is not. In the Middle East, for example, a person who eats pork is probably Roman Catholic or Orthodox Christian, not Jewish or Muslim. • While most people believe that consumers make consumption choices based on personal preferences Bourdieu (1984) showed that consumer preferences are highly predictable once their economic status & cultural capital is known. 4
  • 5. Objective of this Presentation Based on the indelible link between Food & Culture : • Help provide a “birds eye perspective” of the historical reservoir of local Vietnamese, Malaysian and Indonesian cuisine. • Map implications for marketers 5
  • 6. Research Approach : Secondary Data & IDI’s • Discussions with NUS Post Scholars: Dr. Nir Avieli • Secondary Research. • Food & Culture – Kittler/Sucher • Davidson, Alan. The Oxford Companion to Food. Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1999 • Goody, Jack. Cooking, Cuisine, and Class: A Study in Comparative Sociology. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1982. • Ling, Kong Foong. The Food of Asia. Singapore: Periplus, 1998 • Robson, J. R. K., ed. Food, Ecology, and Culture: Readings in the Anthropology of Dietary Practices. New York: Gordon and Breach, 1980. • Owen, Sri. Indonesian Regional Food and Cookery. London and New York: Doubleday, 1994. • Owen, Sri. The Rice Book: The Definitive Book on the Magic of Rice Cookery. London: Transworld, 1993. • Rice Talks: A study of food and culture in Vietnam by Dr.Nir Avieli, 2003 6
  • 7. The Research Framework Used: Role of food within a culture is a function of: (1) the frequency of food consumption, as described through the core and complementary foods model; (2) the ways in which a culture traditionally prepares and seasons its foods, as examined by flavor principles; (3) the daily, weekly, and yearly use of food, as found in meal patterns and meal cycles; (4) changes in food functions that emerge during structural growth in a culture. Kittler P G , Sucher K P Diabetes Spectr 2004;17:200-204
  • 9. Overview of Vietnam Vietnam Population: Over 83 million - 85% ethnic Vietnamese, 3% ethnic Chinese, members of 55 ethno-linguistic groups. Languages: Vietnamese, French, Chinese, English and local dialects. Religions: Buddhism, Taoism, Confucianism, Hoa Hao, Cao Dai, Muslim and Christian minorities Food forms a critical part of fabric of Vietnamese life In fact a closer look reveals that the shape of country resembles two rice baskets on a rice pole. Further exemplified by their greeting “Eat tet”i.e. “Have you eaten”? Many proverbs anchored on Food -Father eats salty food, the children will be thirsty." = Bad actions will later bring bad luck/consequences to descendants, . Eating lying down= A rather polite folksy way of saying having sex. 10
  • 10. Tracing the Historical Reservoir of Vietnam Time Line 300BC : •111BC-938 CE- •10-15 century •13th century CE- •Early 16th century – Indian Mongol Invasion Portuguese and other •Dong Son •Chinese Buddhist culture Domination influenced •1292 CE – Marco European traders and • Wet rice with occasional Champas in Polo visits 13th Missionaries farming, resistance from Central and century-Japanese •1858- 1954- French domestication the Viets South Vietnam and Chinese trade Invasion followed by of water buffalo, bronze begins and formation of French casting flourishes Indochina 11
  • 11. Historical Reservoir drawn from …. Indian Stemming from Chinese Domination Hindu-Buddhist Champas French Rest of Asia Stemming from :Cambodia / Malay colonialism The Viets have through the decades sought to establish their unique & separate identity; specially in context of the Chinese. The Vietnamese value system is based on four closely interelated tenets: allegiance to the family, yearning for a good name, love of learning, and respect for other people. Vietnamese's daily behaviors and perceptions are influenced from the synthesis of concepts which may be followed from numerous religions, specially Confucianism, Buddhism and Taoism 12
  • 13. The Story of the Rice Cake: “Purity & Most Basic Ingredients” “Two kinds of cakes: one was round and the other was square in shape. The round cake was made with glutinous rice dough and was called "banh day" by Tiet-Lieu. He named the square shaped cake "banh chung" which he made with rice, green beans wrapped in leaves. Rice is the most precious food item in the land and yet also the most abundant. I have created dishes that symbolize the harmony between the earth and heaven so that all of our people can enjoy.” 14
  • 14. Vietnam : Mapping The Core and Complementary Foods Model Seasonings Ingredients  Herbs : Basil, Coriander,  Rice and Noodles  Mint, lemongrass, Lime leaves, dill, spring  Wheat, Mung beans onions, Spearmint,  Vegetables, Beef,  Vietnamese Mint Chicken, Duck, Pork,  Sauces : Fish sauce, Soy sauce,  Fish and shrimp, Tofu  Shrimp paste, Hot chilly sauce  Black Pepper, Chilly Snacks/Sweets/ Feasts  Fruits, Tapioca Flour, Foods eaten sporadically, by  Mung Bean paste, individual preference, not a sugar, cultural habit  Sesame seeds, Coconut milk Kittler P G , Sucher K P 2004;17:200-204 Snacks are often purchased from street vendors. Popular handheld snacks include spring rolls or pork meatballs on a stick. These foods and pho (beef noodle soup) are the equivalent of fast food in Vietnamese cities. Also common between meals are sweet fruits and ice cream, introduced during the Vietnam War era (1960s and 1970s). Another "imported" snack food is a baguette with pâté, a holdover from the years when Vietnam was a colony of France.
  • 15. Dynamics of a meal •Meals are taken communally; using bowls, chopsticks and ceramic spoons, and is accompanied by an array of sauces, flavorings, dips, salads. •A meal is a complete entity with many dishes –there is no concept of ‘courses’ apart from ‘soup’ . •Eating out in Vietnam is far more common than in Western countries – usually, only the main evening meal is cooked at home. Breakfast is a light meal, but is considered important . Street breakfast in towns and cities of the north is mostly a variation of ‘pho’. Lunch is usually taken at a ‘com bui’.There is no tradition of ‘desserts’ in Vietnam. 17
  • 16. Tet – The Feast  Tet marks the beginning of a new year on the lunar calendar, and the beginning of Spring. Food plays a major role in the Tet celebration. Tet is a time of excess, one does not enjoy Tet, one "eats" Tet.  3 or 5 duck eggs is offered to ancestors who have returned to their homes.  Sticky rice and salt are also offered in the streets to any hungry ghosts who might be wandering in the neighbourhood. 18
  • 17. Key Influences on Vietnamese Food Rest of Asia Indian French Chinese :Cambodia / Via Stemming from Thailand Indianised Khmers colonialism Chopsticks, wok, From Cambodia, The Indianised Introduced the stir frying, Vietnamese kingdom of Baguette and pâté, steaming, braising adopted Bo Hoc Champa gave the this with local and clay pot (Prahok), a central Vietnamese curry. stuffing became stewing. Dishes like ingredient of a rice Wonton, dumpling, noodle soup called Ca ri is a popular BanhMi. Introduced Ka tieu, wheat bun Nuoc leo. dish in central Onions, Potatoes, noodles, Popiah, From the Thais, and South Tarragon, youtiao, Baozi, the Vietnamese Vietnam. asparagus, Coffee Yangzhou Fried rice adopted Xoi with cream, milk, etc . Xoai(Mango sticky butter, custards, Adaptations- The rice) and Lau and cakes Chinese soy sauce thai(Hotpot), very has been replaced popular in Saigon. Yin & Yang has a significant influence on by Nuoc mam or Vietnamese Food fish sauce and Nuoc Cham 19
  • 18. Incorporation of The Principal of Yin & Yang The principle of yin and yang as represented in Taoism by the Taijitu influences the Vietnamese food habits significantly. Influence : Principal of Yin and Yang, seek to match dishes with seasonal/climatic conditions and current physical state of the diners.  Duck meat is considered "cool" so is served in summer, which is hot, and with ginger fish sauce, which is "warm." On the other hand, chicken, which is "warm," and pork, which is "hot," are used in cold winters.  Seafood ranging from "cool" to "cold" is suitable to use with ginger ("warm").  Spicy, which is extremely yang, must be harmonized by sour, which is extremely yin.  Balut- "Hột vịt lộn," meaning “Upside-down egg" ("cold"), must be combined with Vietnamese mint "Rau răm" ("hot").  Cold and flu patients must drink ginger water ("hot"). 20
  • 19. Sensorial – Vast Regional Diversity North Central South • Less Spicy, Fewer •Spicier than North •More flavorsome and varied spices/herbs. •Multiple dishes around Rice •Hot chilies • More MSG owing to a history of royal • Black pepper for hotness tradition • Coconut milk • Preference for beef •Glutinous rice •Tropical fruits •Vegetarian Buddhist • raw vegetables tradition, so many • herbs vegetarian dishes Vietnamese food is fresh and light. Appeals to senses via Five spices, Five types of nutrients, Five colors - attractive to the eye, crispy and crunchy, spices on the tongue, aromatic herbs and touch. Ideal meal needs to have a balance between spicy (metal), sour (wood), bitter (fire), salty (water) and sweet (earth) 21
  • 20. Thus in Sum  Purity, freshness, balance of Yin & Yang key to Vietnamese cuisine.  Rice , Fish and Vegetables form the core of the Vietnamese meals. The largest influence on Vietnamese has been that of Chinese (largely on the cooking styles, core and complementary food) & the French (largely on the peripheral and secondary food; exception Banhmi)  Food Sensorials:  Well rounded taste profile,  Aromatic owing to herbs and vegetables  Mouth Feel: Light , fresh and crunchy  Colors : Attractive  Flavor: Fish Soy Sauce  Traditional to Adapted Food:  Chinese :Fish Sauce  French : BanhMi 22
  • 22. Overview of Indonesia Indonesian culture has been shaped by long interaction between original indigenous customs and multiple foreign influences. Owing to its vantage position on along ancient trading routes between the Far East and the Middle East has resulted in a complex cultural mixture very different from the original indigenous cultures. 24
  • 23. Historical Reservoir drawn from …. Chinese Arab Stemming from Stemming from Indian trade and Stemming from trade trade and scholars migration Portuguese Dutch Spanish Stemming from Traders colonialism Indian merchants brought Hindu Buddhist religions whereas Chinese traders and immigrants contributed Confucianism and the Arab Traders Islam. These contrasting influences in turn resulted in the archipelago exhibiting high level of heterogeneity. Therefore an island like Bali remains predominantly Hindu and the rest of the world’s most populous Islamic nation continues to respect its earlier animist, Hindu and Buddhist traditions. 25
  • 24. Impact on Indonesian Cuisine 26
  • 25. Rice Integral to Life and Well Being.. Dewi Sri is believed to have dominion over the underworld and the Moon. Thus, Dewi Sri encompasses the whole spectrum of the Mother Goddess- having dominion over birth and Life: she controls rice: the staple food of Indonesians; hence life and wealth or prosperity; most especially rice surpluses for the wealth of kingdoms in Java; and their inverse: poverty, famine, hunger, disease (to a certain extent) and Death. She is often associated with the rice paddy snake . 27
  • 26. The Dynamics of Home Eaten Meal • Indonesian tables generally bear not only serving platters with dishes to be shared and individual plates or bowls but also little satellite dishes for dipping sauces, spices, chopped herbs, and relishes like shrimp paste and fish sauce. Each diner has the right and freedom to fine-tune the dish to his or her individual taste by dipping, pouring, mixing, and sprinkling • Close look at different aspects of a meal : • Preparation – Rural Areas typically done by the lady of the house – Urban- Lady of the house & domestic help – Food could be freshly cooked or in the morning • Presentation – Rice coupled with a couple of meat/seafood and/or vegetables the norm. All the dishes are served at the same time. – Crunchies like Keropak • Consumption – Family usually eats together. 28
  • 27. Food & Social Status in Indonesia Economically more affluent Difference lies in Variety and richness of number of dishes/ food on table key desserts. Rice & indicator of affluence meats remain common Economically less affluent Home Celebration/ Prepared Selamantan 29
  • 28. Indonesia: Mapping The Core and Complementary Foods Model Seasonings Ingredients  Fresh: Red shallots, galangal,  Rice Turmeric. Garlic, spring onions,  Ambon – Sago ginger, lemon grass, Kaffir lime,  Irian Jaya-Sweet Pandan, Chinese celery Potato, Cassava, Corn  Dried: Coriander seeds, cardamom,  Seafood, Chicken, cinnamon, cumin and fennel, chilies beef,  Tamarind water, Lime juice and  Vegetables Vinegar  Terasi -fermented shrimp paste Snacks/Sweets/ Foods eaten Feasts sporadically, by Fruits, Tapioca Flour, individual Mung bean paste, preference, not a Palm Sugar,Cane cultural habit sugar Sesame seeds, coconut milk Kittler P G , Sucher K P 2004;17:200-204
  • 29. Key Influences on Indonesian Food Chinese Arab Indian Portuguese/Sp Dutch Stemming from trade and migration Stemming from trade Stemming from trade anish Traders Colonies Soybean, noodles Arab traders and Indian merchants Portuguese Dutch planted and stir-frying. scholars brought curries brought chili tomatoes, cabbage, Vegetables like introduced kebabs and dried spices peppers from the cauliflower, carrots, Oriental radish, and Arabian spices like cardamom, Americas radish, green beans Chinese cabbage, The Arab traders cumin and caraway. lettuce and coffee horse tamarind, bought the Vegetables Spanish introduced bean sprouts and concept of halal cucumbers, corn and chili Also contributed broad leaved meat. eggplants and peppers pastry, cakes, mustard. onions cookies , bread, Soybean paste cheese & steaks (tauco) and tahu (Tofu). The tempeh The Dutch invented (Soybean cake Kebabs became Curry, Stews the Rijstaffel based with whole on the beans) is an Satay Indonesian Selamantan- 32 adaptation, celebration meal Kecap Manis
  • 30. Sensorial – Vast Regional Diversity Sumatra Java Very high use of spices and Overall taste profile aromatic herbs skewed towards sweet Every dish seems to have a few spoons of Kecap Minangkabau cuisine from Manis(sweet Soy sauce). West Sumatra is known for its fiery-hot, spicy Padang cuisine. They use hot chilies Use of aromatic herbs, with abandon! sourness and spice moderate Diversity in sensorial key example: the tribes in Borneo mostly retain their indigenous foods. Further islands across the archipelago exhibit island specific preferences. In a country with such diverse food traditions, the food sensorials can be broadly described as spicy, aromatic and rich. 33
  • 31. Thus in Sum  Indonesian cuisine as it exists today is a potpourri of different cuisines. However what is unique to Indonesia is the diversity in flavors that are seen across the country.  Rice , poultry, mutton & seafood and vegetables form the core of the Indonesian meals. The largest influence has been that of Chinese , Arab and Indians (largely on the cooking styles, core and complementary food). Dutch influence limited to ingredients and secondary/ peripheral foods.  Food Sensorials:  Overall taste profile- spicy, aromatic & rich  Key Adaptations :  Chinese :Tempeh, Kecap Manis  Arabs : Satay, Halal  Indians: Spices & “biryani adaptations” 35
  • 33. Overview of Malaysia Owing to its unique vantage position fusion characterizes all facets of Malaysian culture. A unified Malaysian culture is however something only emerging in the country. The important social distinction in the emergent national culture is between Malay and non-Malay, represented by : the Malay elite that dominates the country's politics, and the largely Chinese middle class. 37
  • 34. Historical Reservoir drawn from …. Thai/ Chinese Indonesian Indian Stemming from Stemming from trade and Stemming from trade and migration Geographical migration proximity Arab Europeans Stemming from Stemming from trade colonialism Kinship a key facet of Malaysian Culture evidenced by “Kampong spirit.” Integral part even today of village life; has however seen erosion in recent times in urban centers . Socialization with “family & community” key. Family integral to simple & good life. Legends abound in adventure and sagas about fairies, heroes, magic curses and heavenly celestial beings. 38
  • 36. Meal Dynamics..  No concept of courses, food is eaten /served simultaneously.  Preparation: Typically done by mother; often ladies from two generation i.e. grandmother/ mother  Presentation: Rice coupled with a couple of meat/seafood and/or vegetables the norm. Condiments used include a small crunchy salad, pickled vegetables & sambal condiment  Consumption: Family usually eats together.  Preference for freshly cooked meals high  Urban centers there is a growing preference for fast food; in rural areas, local cuisine still preferred.  With people increasingly traveling long distances to work coupled with women increasingly joining the workforce the hawker food is being increasingly seen as a substitute for a home cooked meal. Packaged & supermarket are also seen as viable alternatives 40
  • 37. Food & Social Status: Economically more affluent Variety on table key Variety on table key indicator of affluence indicator of affluence Difference lies in number Rice & meats remain of meat & vegetable & common deserts served. Economically less affluent Home Celebration Prepared Fasting & Feasting 41
  • 38. Malaysia: Mapping The Core and Complementary Foods Model Seasonings Core Ingredients Herbs: Lemongrass, shallots, ginger, Rice and Noodles Chilies, garlic, galangal, Turmeric, Kaffir Breads Lime, Laksa, Pandan leaves Seafood- Fish, shrimps & Spices: Fennel, Cumin, Coriander, cuttlefish, cardamom, cloves, Star anise, Mustard, Meat: chicken, mutton, cinnamon, fenugreek, Nutmeg, beef Sambal and Sambal belacan Vegetables  Tamarind, Mango, Asam, Carambola, Lemon and coconut Snacks/Sweets/ Foods eaten  Feasts sporadically, by  Cakes and individual preference, desserts made of not a cultural habit Coconut milk, palm sugar, glutinous rice etc. Kittler P G , Sucher K P 2004;17:200-204
  • 39. Isolating Key Influences on Malaysian Food Chinese Thai/Indonesia Indian Arab Europeans Stemming from Stemming from Stemming from trade Stemming from Stemming from trade trade and migration Geographical proximity and migration colonialism •Noodles •Northern •Cooking •The Arab •Jellies and •Tofu Malaysian food techniques of • Soups traders bought colorants to •Nyonya Food has a Thai flavor frying spices in the concept of deserts. or Straits due to geography oil . Vegetables halal meat. Chinese food – and cultural like okra, purple Even today •Grilling as a resulted owing interaction eggplants, to marriages import of meats cooking between •Herbs/flavours brown mustard, is minimal. technique Chinese •Negri Sembilan, fenugreek and •Also pork is not immigrants once dominated curry leaves. consumed by and locals and by Minangkabaus •Breads/ Rotis is a blend of Malay Muslims. Chinese and enjoys a Sumatra •Curry local flavors flavor of coconut •Spice Mixtures •Kebabs became milk, beef and •Mee Goreng Satay. bird eye chilies and Nasi kandar 44
  • 40. Thus Sensorials… Chinese Thai Europeans Stemming from Stemming from Indian Arab Stemming from Geographical Stemming from trade Stemming from trade trade and migration colonialism proximity Overall profile Overall profile Overall profile Overall profile Overall profile bland. aromatic but spicy. bland and bland. High reliance taste profile is aromatic. on “essence” of well balanced Use of spices Owing to use meat & despite high very high. Herbs of spices high vegetables. use of chilies & average. Cooking but is tempered Use of herbs herbs. Techniques- with use of average. Spices A function of Frying cream & cheese usage lower coconut base Overall profile aromatic and very spicy/tangy. Use of spices and herbs very high 45
  • 41. Thus in Sum  Process of “acculturation or “Traditional to adopted foods’ is key to Malaysian cuisine. “Fusion a hallmark“ across all spheres of its culture including food .  Rice , poultry, mutton & seafood and vegetables form the core of the Malaysian meals. The largest influence has been that of Chinese , Thai and Indians (largely on the cooking styles, core and complementary food). Arab contribution limited to halal meat & satay- a key secondary food  Food Sensorials:  Overall spicy taste profile,  Aromatic owing to herbs and vegetables  Mouth Feel: Fried , rich , spicy & tangy owing to coconut, spices & tamarind  Key Adaptations :  Chinese :Nyonya Food  Arabs : Satay, Halal  Indians: Spices & “biryani adaptations” 46
  • 42. Dairy Food Products- “Historical Reservoir” 47
  • 43. History of Dairy… Traditionally a non-dairying region The history of dairy consumption in South East Asia is very short, but with an upward trend. 48
  • 44. Introduction of Dairy … Malaysia & Indonesia : Colonial Trade brought early import of canned sweetened milk to Indonesia(1875), then Malaysia. This milk was ideal for long-distance trade as it keeps relatively well in the heat.  Adoption Triggers :  Imported for Europeans first, it spread to local elite, then throughout the population, as the small tin price decreased.  In addition, milk kitchens set up by the Dutch in towns and cities provided sweetened condensed milk for infants who didn’t get mother’s milk.  Around 1901, Nestlé's sales network was marketing the product in Javanese villages.  Vietnam : Colonials brought the first dairy cows at the end of 18th century. US army commissioned Ice cream factories in 60’s and 70s. 49
  • 45. Key Barriers …Historical Perspective Lactose Intolerance  In these regions, large proportions of the population are lactose intolerant.  With time decline being seen in lactose Genetics intolerance; function of increased exposure to milk? Easily available dairy substitutes Substitutes  Soy milk, coconut milk & Tofu seen as substitutes for dairy milk Negative Milk Perceptions and Poor Sensorials Product  Milk seen as a “body excretion” thus Perception & Sensorials mental barriers specially in Vietnam where cattle were used for draught power, manure and meat production but not for milk or dairy.  Milk and other dairy products associated with a smell 50
  • 46. Current Picture: Fast growing markets, per capita consumption low.. Key Growth Triggers • Rising per capita income • Increasing association of milk and nutrition needed for a growing child • Product range beyond liquid milk; not a part of SEA diet • Government schemes for infant feeding, targeted school milk program • Western influence has resulted in higher use of cheese & butter  Fastest Growing Markets, Significantly lower versus Europe/ America and even per capita consumption in India.For example : In Vietnam per capita has grown from around 1 kg to 10 kg now
  • 47. But…Within the Core & Complementary Foods Framework… Role of Milk & other dairy products however not integral to Core & Complementary foods  Seek to make dairy based offerings a part of core (substitute to tofu?) or complementary food (dairy based flavor enhancers?)  Market Development:  Strengthen benefits : Recent anthropological studies in China show milk perceived as integral for child ‘s growth and nutrition; seek to establish similar connect with other age segments not just children  Burst Myths if widespread address Kittler P G , Sucher K P Diabetes Spectr 2004;17:200-204 myths via support of trusted, credible authority support:  Government  Celebrity Endorsement
  • 48. But…Within the Core & Complementary Foods Framework… Role of Milk & other dairy products however not integral to Core & Complementary foods  RTB Simplification : Given stage of development need to understand if there exists a case for simplification of RTB ?  Lactose Intolerance: On ground activation ideas to push products that can be consumed by a lactose intolerant consumers like yogurt etc.  Sampling : On ground sampling of products that help address “negative Kittler P G , Sucher K P Diabetes Spectr 2004;17:200-204 milk sensorials” eg. UHT milk by adding additives flavors like chocolate, banana, strawberry etc, powder milk etc..
  • 50. Implication 1-(1/4) Key Observations :  Most Southeast Asian societies have been in contact with each other and with other societies, such as India and China,  Owing to colonialism, trade, influx of scholars & geographical proximity.  Significant Chinese populations across these markets – hence have strong Chinese dietary strains in their cuisines.  While this resulted in “acculturation” i.e. the process of adopting the cultural traits or social patterns of another group ; the emergent codes specifically in context of food were not homogeneous  Thus within Southeast Asia food serves as an ethnic and national marker, distinguishing one group from another.  Heterogeneity stems from the way people think, work, survive, and express themselves; the economic surplus of the country of focus; social forces and the countries' indigenous cultures. 55
  • 51. Implications 1- (2/4) Acculturation is a fourfold model along two dimensions. Assimilation Integration High- Low High- High Indigenous Host Culture Absorption Marginalization Separation Low -High Donor Culture Retention 56
  • 52. Implications 1- (3/4) Acculturation Model examples in the context of Food: Assimilation Integration Chinese Fried Rice & Indian Satay/ Laksa Biryani Adaptations Indigenous Host Culture Absorption Separation Chinese dialect groups & Marginalization the tribes in the rain forests of Borneo Retaining Donor Culture 57
  • 53. Implications 1 - (4/4) Implication 1: Host or Donor Countries as Source of Ideas for Innovation ? Thus :For every country of focus the countries marketers should seek to identify food categories that are “assimilated, integrated or separationist” and for each of these then seek to understand consumers in both the donor & recipient countries as a possible source of innovation ideas. Areas that could be explored could be anchored in  Ingredients  Seasonings  Cooking Style & Medium In fact marketers could establish protocols using research techniques like Neuro Linguistic Processing to understand taste expectations from host & donor country & then develop options for each. 58
  • 54. Implications 2 - (1/2) Observation 2 :  Food within Southeast Asia serves as a ethnic & national marker, distinguishing one group from another. But despite the diversity, distinct commonalities exist. •All throughout the region, rice forms the core food, is the basis of cakes, desserts and other snacks. Rice as staff of life— food that shapes tastes and dietary patterns—certainly is a common denominator. •The flavor of coconut at all its stages is savored throughout the region. •Ingredients like coconut milk, lemon grass, galingale, ginger, Asian basil, mint, fish sauce, and shrimp paste are used throughout the region; although the proportion varies. Implication: Thus processed food manufacturers should consider exploring the “mass customization” for offering core complimentary or secondary food solutions for the region i.e. Mass customization is the method of "effectively postponing the task of differentiating a product for a specific customer until the latest possible point in the supply network.” 59
  • 55. An example of “Range of Offerings – To meet diverse needs” (2/2) Ultimate goal would be to offer solutions that individuals / local diners can customize to their tastes & preferences at the time of cooking/ on the table. This process of customizing to ones palate is core to the region and each diner has the right and freedom to fine tune his dish to his or her individual taste by dipping, pouring, mixing, and sprinkling sauce/condiments. 60
  • 56. Implication 3 -(1/2)  Observation 3 : Influences on cuisine from the donor country are imbibed by the host country through the process of acculturation that involves:  Retaining : Retaining certain elements that are core & indigenous to its culture (stemming from social & economic reasons). Example : use of palm sugar in Malaysia for desserts, use of fish sauce in Vietnam etc.  Fusion : Customizing overseas influences with local preferences i.e. Kebabs to Satay or soy sauce with sugar etc.  Implication 3:  All successful innovation for multicultural communities needs to mimic this process. Thus for each category of interest at the outset, the flavor house must identify:  Are there any core preferences that are integral to that category for the locals. These core preferences can be identified via heuristics- i.e. thumb rules that consumers use in decision making. If an ingredient/ cooking style is integral for the product meeting a key thumb rule it should be defined as core.  Explore innovation ideas that look to impact the “non core elements of the dish” via looking at opportunities for fusion of local food preferences with overseas food trends. 61
  • 57. Elucidating the Example (2/2) Lays a winning example of retaining the core but yet innovating to suite local palate preferences. 62
  • 58. Key implications 4 (1/1)  Observation 4: In a lot of food categories “source of origin” stories are leveraged for credibility and authenticity to ensure relevance and differentiation in the mind of the consumer.  Implication 4 :  Source of origin stories can be further strengthened by looking at “origins” that trace the historical reservoir of the dish/ ingredient .  Specially for assimilated foods maybe pertinent to talk about the process of “fusion” of the food in the local cuisine . This maybe specifically relevant to markets like Indonesia & Malaysia where adaptation of cusines from other countries has been widespread. 63
  • 59. Key implication 5 (1/2)  PACKAGING IMPLICATIONS  When it comes to food purity and tasty are generics that the overall positioning of the brand & the packaging must deliver upon.  However, if one were to suggest guidelines inputs based on an analysis of the historical reservoir some thoughts are:  Food is seen as having an indelible link with life, purity, freshness and simplicity key. This should be captured in packaging & positioning of the brands.  Yin & Yang balance of ingredients also remains an under-explored opportunity for food manufacturers  In Malaysia & Indonesia given the adaptation & fusion “authenticity of taste maybe should be accorded a higher weightage 64
  • 60. Elucidating the Example (2/2) Indelible link of the food with life, purity, freshness and simplicity stands well captured in the packaging of the local players 65
  • 61. Implication 6 Observation 5 : Migration Going Forward:  There are now 215m first-generation migrants around the world: that’s 3% of the world’s population. If they were a nation, it would be a little larger than Brazil. There are more Chinese people living outside China than there are French people in France. Some 22m Indians are scattered all over the globe. Small concentrations of ethnic and linguistic groups have always been found in surprising places—Lebanese in west Africa, Japanese in Brazil and Welsh in Patagonia, for instance—but they have been joined by newer ones, such as west Africans in southern China.- Source Economist Implication 5: This is currently & more so in the future likely to give rise to adopted foods. Thus food marketers need to track and monitor these migrants to decide their portfolios & innovation strategies in times to come 66