1. Brought
to
you
by:
“So,
you
want
to
breed
BETTA
FISH?”
Here’s
what
you
need
to
know
before
you
begin.

2. Important
points
to
ask
yourself:
1.)
Knowledge
&
Goals
“Do
I
have
the
knowledge
to
breed
without
guessing,
and
an
understanding
of
gene>cs
and
behavior?
Do
I
know
what
I
want
out
of
this
spawn?
Do
I
know
what
I’m
going
to
do
with
the
offspring?”
2.)
Finances
“Do
I
have
enough
money
to
pay
for
supplies
and
food?”
3.)
Space
“Do
I
have
enough
space
to
breed
and
house
offspring?”
4.)
Time
“Do
I
have
enough
>me
to
raise
and
care
for
the
fry?”
5.)
Supplies
&
Equipment
“Do
I
have
the
right
supplies
and
equipment
to
breed
and
raise?”
6.)
Breeding
Quality
Stock
“Do
I
have
good
quality
fish
that
I
know
the
gene>c
history
of?”

3. Sec>on
1:
BeUa
Basics
•Anatomy
•Form
•Color
/
PaUerns
•Branching
•
Behavior
•What
Defines
Good
Form

4. Be#a
Basics
As
a
breeder
of
beUa
fish,
you
should
strive
to
improve
the
quality
of
the
species.
In
order
to
do
this
successfully
(and
with
minimal
head-­‐banging
against
the
wall,)
do
your
research.
The
following
is
a
list
of
the
most
important
and
basic
topics
you
should
be
researching,
as
well
as
good
links
to
where
you
can
gain
the
knowledge
you
need.
“You
wouldn’t
try
to
take
an
important
test
without
studying
and
expect
to
pass,
right?
You
shouldn’t
try
to
successfully
breed
without
studying,
either.”
•
Be#a
Anatomy
One
of
the
most
important
things
you
can
learn
about
beUas
is
their
anatomy.
You’ll
find
when
speaking
with
other
enthusiasts,
terms
will
be
used
that
you
are
probably
not
used
to
seeing.
Familiarize
yourself
with
beUa
anatomy-­‐
you’ll
be
surprised
how
oaen
you
will
use
it.

5. Be#a
Basics
As
a
breeder
of
beUa
fish,
you
should
strive
to
improve
the
quality
of
the
species.
In
order
to
do
this
successfully
(and
to
prevent
head-­‐
banging
against
the
wall,)
do
your
research.
The
following
is
a
list
of
the
most
important
and
basic
topics
you
should
be
researching,
as
well
as
good
links
to
where
you
can
gain
the
knowledge
you
need.
“You
wouldn’t
try
to
take
an
important
test
without
studying
and
expect
to
pass,
right?
You
shouldn’t
try
to
successfully
breed
without
studying,
either.”
•
Be#a
Finnage
Forms
Knowing
how
to
recognize
the
different
types
of
beUas
is
cri>cal.
You
should
be
able
to
understand
the
differences
between
the
forms,
and
know
when
it’s
a
bad
idea
to
cross
them,
and
when
it’s
necessary
to
cross
them.
Star>ng
out
as
a
new
breeder,
you
should
have
a
goal
in
mind
of
what
kind
of
finnage
you’d
like
to
reproduce.
Keep
in
mind
the
downsides
of
each
form-­‐
halfmoons
are
prone
to
“tail
bi>ng”
and
gebng
worn
out
easily
due
to
heavy
finnage.
Crowntails
need
very
soa,
clean
water
to
prevent
ray
bending
and
curling.
Plakats
/
Halfmoon
Plakats
tend
to
be
the
easiest
to
start
with,
as
they
don’t
have
the
long
fins
and
issues
that
come
with
them.
List
of
basic
forms
of
finnage-­‐
Good
Websites
for
Finnage
Info-­‐
hUp://www.aqua>ccommunity.com/beUafish/tailfinforms.php
Veiltail
(VT)
hUp://beUysplendens.com/ar>cles/catview.imp?ca>d=857
Delta
Tail
(DeT)
hUp://beUatalk.com/beUa_finnage.htm
hUp://beUaterritory.nl/BT-­‐AABtailtypegene>cs.htm
Super
Delta
Tail
(SD)
Doubletail
(DT)
Halfmoon
(HM)
Crowntail
(CT)
Roundtail
(RdT)
Rosetail
(RT)
Spadetail
(ST)
Plakat
(PK)
Halfmoon
Plakat
(HMPK)
Combtail
(CbT)
Halfsun
(HS)

6. Be#a
Basics
As
a
breeder
of
beUa
fish,
you
should
strive
to
improve
the
quality
of
the
species.
In
order
to
do
this
successfully
(and
with
minimal
head-­‐banging
against
the
wall,)
do
your
research.
The
following
is
a
list
of
the
most
important
and
basic
topics
you
should
be
researching,
as
well
as
good
links
to
where
you
can
gain
the
knowledge
you
need.
“You
wouldn’t
try
to
take
an
important
test
without
studying
and
expect
to
pass,
right?
You
shouldn’t
try
to
successfully
breed
without
studying,
either.”
•
Be#a
Colors
&
Pa#erns
Knowing
how
to
recognize
the
different
colors
of
beUas
is
cri>cal.
Star>ng
out
as
a
new
breeder,
you
should
have
a
goal
in
mind
of
what
kind
of
color
you’d
like
to
reproduce.
Keep
in
mind
the
difficulty
levels
for
different
colors
and
paUerns,
for
example,
the
difficulty
of
gebng
a
solid
buUerfly
paUern
within
a
line,
versus
s>cking
with
a
solid,
dominant
color
such
as
blue.
List
of
basic
colors
and
paUerns-­‐
Good
Websites
for
Color
Info-­‐
Iridescent
(turquoise,
steel
blue,
royal
blue,
copper)
hUp://beUaterritory.nl/BT-­‐AABcolorgene>cs.htm
Red
hUp://beUysplendens.com/ar>cles/catview.imp?ca>d=890
Orange
hUp://beUatalk.com/beUa_colors.htm
Yellow
Black
White
BuUerfly
Lace
Marble
Dragon
Cambodian
Purple
Mustard
Chocolate

7. Be#a
Basics
As
a
breeder
of
beUa
fish,
you
should
strive
to
improve
the
quality
of
the
species.
In
order
to
do
this
successfully
(and
with
minimal
head-­‐banging
against
the
wall,)
do
your
research.
The
following
is
a
list
of
the
most
important
and
basic
topics
you
should
be
researching,
as
well
as
good
links
to
where
you
can
gain
the
knowledge
you
need.
“You
wouldn’t
try
to
take
an
important
test
without
studying
and
expect
to
pass,
right?
You
shouldn’t
try
to
successfully
breed
without
studying,
either.”
•
Understanding
“Branching”
Interac>ng
with
other
beUa
breeders
and
owners,
you
will
oaen
see
the
term
“branching,”
“webbing,”
“rays,”
or
“splits.”
Learning
terms
and
how
to
count
rays
is
a
cri>cal
part
of
understanding
beUa
form
and
how
finnage
spread
works.
Branching
is
generally
counted
on
the
caudal
fin
of
the
beUa.
The
term
“split”
refers
to
when
the
first
(called
the
primary)
branch
divides
into
two
separate
(secondary)
branches.
Looking
at
the
image
to
the
lea,
you
can
see
that
the
primary
branch
extends
down
from
the
caudal
peduncle
(see
anatomy)
and
divides
into
a
V
shape,
forming
two
different
branches.
These
smaller
branches
are
called
the
secondary
rays.
You
can
see
again
that
both
of
these
branches
divides
again
into
each
a
V
shape,
crea>ng
the
third
or
ter?ary
branching.
This
beUa
is
considered
a
4-­‐ray
beUa,
as
you
can
count
4
different
rays
at
the
end
of
the
caudal.
The
more
branching
a
beUa
has,
the
wider
the
spread
becomes.
Super
deltas
are
nearly
halfmoons,
but
do
not
contain
enough
branching
to
pull
the
webbing
apart
into
a
full
180
degree
spread.
Rosetail
beUas
have
too
much
branching
to
be
able
to
spread
out,
so
it
folds
in
on
itself,
giving
the
“rose”
appearance.
Example
of
a
4-­‐ray
beUa

8. Be#a
Basics
As
a
breeder
of
beUa
fish,
you
should
strive
to
improve
the
quality
of
the
species.
In
order
to
do
this
successfully
(and
with
minimal
head-­‐banging
against
the
wall,)
do
your
research.
The
following
is
a
list
of
the
most
important
and
basic
topics
you
should
be
researching,
as
well
as
good
links
to
where
you
can
gain
the
knowledge
you
need.
“You
wouldn’t
try
to
take
an
important
test
without
studying
and
expect
to
pass,
right?
You
shouldn’t
try
to
successfully
breed
without
studying,
either.”
•
Understanding
Be#a
Behavior
When
learning
how
to
breed
beUa
fish,
it
is
cri>cal
to
learn
the
behavior
and
body
language
of
both
males
and
females
in
a
spawning
sebng.
You
must
be
able
to
recognize
the
difference
between
“flir>ng”
and
“threatening.”
Example
of
Aggression:
Example
of
Flir?ng:
hUp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xeB8ec2lqLw
hUp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j_6sIc-­‐
*Please
note
that
I
DO
NOT
support
or
condone
ANYONE
who
Hh8c&feature=related
partakes
in
Be#a
figh?ng.
Here
is
an
example
of
how
a
beUa
behaves
when
showing
Here
is
an
example
of
how
a
beUa
behaves
when
showing
flirta>ous
or
seduc>ve
disposi>ons.
Characteris>cs
include
extreme
aggression
and
threatening
disposi>ons.
swimming
in
an
“S”
paUern,
searching
for
a
loca>on
to
Characteris>cs
include
intense
flaring/
body
shaking,
open-­‐ construct
a
nest,
mild
to
moderate
chasing
with
frequent
mouth
flaring,
charging,
tail
“slapping,”
bi>ng
without
breaks,
and
gently
nosing
into
each
other’s
sides.
release,
and
relentless
chasing
without
end.

9. Be#a
Basics
As
a
breeder
of
beUa
fish,
you
should
strive
to
improve
the
quality
of
the
species.
In
order
to
do
this
successfully
(and
with
minimal
head-­‐
banging
against
the
wall,)
do
your
research.
The
following
is
a
list
of
the
most
important
and
basic
topics
you
should
be
researching,
as
well
as
good
links
to
where
you
can
gain
the
knowledge
you
need.
“You
wouldn’t
try
to
take
an
important
test
without
studying
and
expect
to
pass,
right?
You
shouldn’t
try
to
successfully
breed
without
studying,
either.”
•
What
Makes
a
“Good
Quality”
Be#a?
This
is
another
cri>cal
point
to
learn
when
preparing
to
breed
beUas.
You
should
learn
how
to
tell
the
difference
between
good
form
and
poor
form
on
a
beUa.
Some
people
make
the
argument
“Well,
beauty
is
in
the
eyes
of
the
beholder!”
Personally,
I
challenge
that.
Why
is
an
AKC
Purebred
Siberian
Husky
worth
so
much
more
than
a
family’s
mixed
breed
from
the
pound?
They
are
both
dogs,
both
loving,
and
both
are
able
to
breed.
That
doesn’t
mean
the
mixed
breed
dog
should
be
bred,
as
it
would
create
more
mixed
breed
dogs,
which
are
far
more
than
common.
Breeding
the
mixed
breed
dog
only
creates
more
homeless
dogs
which
no
breeder
in
their
right
mind
would
ever
buy.
There
are
plenty
of
mixed
breeds
sibng
in
dog
pounds
everywhere.
There
is
no
improvement
to
the
dog
species-­‐
only
another
weave
in
the
scrambled
web
that
is
the
dogs’
gene>cs.
The
same
can
be
said
for
breeding
be#a
fish-­‐
“Why
is
a
pure
(homozygous)
pla>num
symmetrical
HMPK
worth
so
much
more
than
a
family’s
redwashed,
mixed
gene>c
veiltail
from
the
pet
store?
They
are
both
beUas,
both
have
personali>es,
and
both
are
able
to
breed.
That
doesn’t
mean
the
VT
should
be
bred,
as
it
would
create
more
scrambled
gene>c
VTs,
which
are
far
more
than
common.
Breeding
the
mixed
gene>c
VT
only
creates
more
homeless
beUas
that
no
breeder
in
their
right
mind
would
ever
buy.
There
are
plenty
of
mixed
VTs
sibng
in
cups
on
shelves
in
pet
stores
everywhere.
There
is
no
improvement
to
the
beUa
species-­‐
only
another
weave
in
the
scrambled
web
that
is
the
fish's’
gene>cs.”
How
can
you
agree
with
the
first
statement,
and
disagree
with
the
second?
They’re
the
same
statements-­‐
just
a
different
animal.
Which
appears
to
be
of
breeding
quality
to
YOU?

10. Be#a
Basics
As
a
breeder
of
beUa
fish,
you
should
strive
to
improve
the
quality
of
the
species.
In
order
to
do
this
successfully
(and
with
minimal
head-­‐banging
against
the
wall,)
do
your
research.
The
following
is
a
list
of
the
most
important
and
basic
topics
you
should
be
researching,
as
well
as
good
links
to
where
you
can
gain
the
knowledge
you
need.
“You
wouldn’t
try
to
take
an
important
test
without
studying
and
expect
to
pass,
right?
You
shouldn’t
try
to
successfully
breed
without
studying,
either.”
•
What
Makes
a
“Good
Quality”
Be#a?
(Con?nued)
The
following
is
a
list
of
arguments
and
excuses
people
make
in
order
to
jus>fy
pet
store
breeding-­‐
“I
need
to
pracFce
on
pet
store
fish
before
I
risk
expensive
fish.”
As
quoted
by
my
fellow
BSOC
founder,
Dom,
“It
takes
just
as
much
>me,
money
and
effort
to
breed
poor
quality
fish
as
it
does
high
quality
fish.”
At
the
end
of
one,
you
have
hundreds
of
high
quality,
solid
gene>c
offspring
that
will
resell
much
more
easily-­‐
in
the
end
of
the
other,
you
have
tanks
full
of
poor
formed,
mystery
gene>c
(basically
pet
store)
fish.
Look
at
it
this
way-­‐
if
pet
stores
get
hundreds
of
customers
on
a
daily
basis,
and
typically
only
sell
a
few
beUas
a
day,
how
long
do
you
think
it
will
take
YOU
to
be
rid
of
hundreds
of
them?
There
is
no
“prac>cing”
when
it
comes
to
breeding-­‐
it
isn’t
a
game;
either
you
do
it,
or
you
don’t.
It
just
doesn’t
make
sense
not
to
start
with
quality
stock.
“I
can’t
afford
fancy,
expensive
show
fish.”
If
you
can’t
afford
the
cost
of
the
parents
to
your
spawn,
there’s
no
way
in
hell
you
can
afford
the
rest
of
the
hobby.
Breeding
beUas
will
put
you
in
debt
right
off
the
bat-­‐
between
the
tanks,
heaters,
filters,
food,
medica>on,
jars,
plants,
cultures,
chemicals,
water/electricity
bill
spikes-­‐
the
cost
of
the
parents
is
absolutely
miniscule
in
comparison.
If
you
get
to
know
the
right
breeders,
you
can
easily
obtain
a
great
pair
for
$40,
commonly
even
less.
“I
can
just
give
the
offspring
away
to
my
local
pet
store.”
When
it
comes
to
dona>ng
fish,
nine
>mes
out
of
ten
you
will
get
turned
down.
How
do
you
think
pet
shops
get
their
fish?
By
strict
contracts
with
large-­‐scale
breeding
facili>es.
Purchasing
or
obtaining
someone
else’s
stock
not
only
breaches
this
contract,
but
puts
more
beUas
on
the
shelves
than
they
already
need
(or
want.)
Shops
order
in
fish
at
a
balanced
rate
at
which
they
sell
them-­‐
accep>ng
your
fish
throws
off
that
balance,
so
majority
of
the
>me
it
won’t
happen.
It’s
simple
logis>cs
of
supply
and
demand-­‐
honestly,
pet
store
beUas
aren’t
in
demand.
That’s
why
they’re
only
a
dollar
or
two
in
most
stores.
“Wasn’t
it
mixing
up
geneFcs
that
created
the
different
forms
we
have
to
begin
with?”
Well,
yes
and
no.
The
breeders
who
formed
the
different
types
of
beUas
we
have
today
were
highly
knowledgeable,
experienced
breeders
and
gene>cists
who
crossed
with
very
specific
goals
in
mind.
Excessive
culling,
inbreeding
and
outcrossing
were
required-­‐
something
a
novice
breeder
has
no
first
clue
about.

11. Be#a
Basics
As
a
breeder
of
beUa
fish,
you
should
strive
to
improve
the
quality
of
the
species.
In
order
to
do
this
successfully
(and
with
minimal
head-­‐banging
against
the
wall,)
do
your
research.
The
following
is
a
list
of
the
most
important
and
basic
topics
you
should
be
researching,
as
well
as
good
links
to
where
you
can
gain
the
knowledge
you
need.
“You
wouldn’t
try
to
take
an
important
test
without
studying
and
expect
to
pass,
right?
You
shouldn’t
try
to
successfully
breed
without
studying,
either.”
•
What
Makes
a
“Good
Quality”
Be#a?
(Con?nued)
Pictured
are
the
3D
renderings
of
BeMas4All
standard,
which
meets
closely
to
the
IBC
standards.
All
credits
to
Joep
van
Esch.
Halfmoon
Ideally
the
caudal
fin
of
a
halfmoon,
both
short-­‐
and
longfinned,
should
have
a
180
degree
spread
with
the
length
of
the
rays
being
equal
throughout
the
whole
caudal.
This
characteris>c
is
only
found
in
a
limited
number
of
fish
and
most
of
the
>mes
the
outer
rays
are
shorter
in
length
than
the
rays
found
in
the
midsec>on
of
the
caudal
fin.
When
judging
longfinned
halfmoons
it
is
oaen
said
that
the
fish
has
an
unbalanced
appearance
because
the
anal
fin
is
too
long
in
the
back.
Interes>ngly,
in
most
cases
it
are
not
the
rays
in
the
anal
fin
which
are
too
long
but
it
actually
are
the
outer
rays
of
the
caudal
fin
which
are
too
short.
This
observa>on
requires
both
breeders
and
judges
to
look
with
a
different
eye
at
Figure
1
halfmoons
(see
Figure
1A).

12. Be#a
Basics
As
a
breeder
of
beUa
fish,
you
should
strive
to
improve
the
quality
of
the
species.
In
order
to
do
this
successfully
(and
with
minimal
head-­‐banging
against
the
wall,)
do
your
research.
The
following
is
a
list
of
the
most
important
and
basic
topics
you
should
be
researching,
as
well
as
good
links
to
where
you
can
gain
the
knowledge
you
need.
“You
wouldn’t
try
to
take
an
important
test
without
studying
and
expect
to
pass,
right?
You
shouldn’t
try
to
successfully
breed
without
studying,
either.”
•
What
Makes
a
“Good
Quality”
Be#a?
(Con?nued)
Pictured
are
the
3D
renderings
of
BeMas4All
standard,
which
meets
closely
to
the
IBC
standards.
All
credits
to
Joep
van
Esch.
Plakat
For
many
years
the
tradi>onal
plakat
was
the
only
shorwinned
type
seen
at
beUa
shows
but
the
development
of
the
halfmoon
fever
also
led
to
the
evolu>on
of
the
shorwinned
tailtype.
Outcrossing
the
tradi>onal
plakat
type
to
longfinned
halfmoons
led
to
the
development
of
the
halfmoon
plakat.
The
overall
appearance
of
these
fish
is
asymmetrical
and
combines
traits
of
both
tradi>onal
plakats
and
halfmoons.
Besides
more
raysplibng
in
the
caudal
fin,
the
outcrossing
to
longfinned
halfmoons
also
introduced
more
raysplibng
in
the
anal
and
dorsal
fins
which
also
influenced
their
shape
and
volume.
Both
types
have
a
clear
asymmetrical
appearance
which
is
mainly
caused
by
the
extended
rays
in
the
rear
(posterior)
part
of
the
anal
fin
but
also
by
the
length
and
shape
of
the
ventrals
and
the
dorsal.
When
breeding
longfinned
halfmoons
the
ul>mate
goal
is
a
fish
with
a
balanced
appearance.
The
increasing
interest
in
asymmetrical
show
plakats
lead
to
the
development
of
another
plakat
type,
the
symmetrical
halfmoon
plakat.
This
type
is
the
shorwinned
equivalent
of
the
longfinned
halfmoon
and
is
oaen
referred
to
as
“shortmoon”.
Because
we
are
now
dealing
with
three
different
shorwinned
show
varie>es
which
have
been
evolved
from
each
other
by
years
of
selec>ve
breeding,
this
also
resulted
in
intermediate
types
which
are
some>mes
difficult
to
place
in
a
certain
show
class.
In
this
standard
we
have
tried
to
create
a
clearer
dis>nc>on
between
the
tradi>onal
plakat
(see
Figure
2A),
the
asymmetrical
halfmoon
plakat
(see
Figure
2B)
and
the
symmetrical
halfmoon
plakat
(see
Figure
2C).
Figure
2

13. Be#a
Basics
As
a
breeder
of
beUa
fish,
you
should
strive
to
improve
the
quality
of
the
species.
In
order
to
do
this
successfully
(and
with
minimal
head-­‐banging
against
the
wall,)
do
your
research.
The
following
is
a
list
of
the
most
important
and
basic
topics
you
should
be
researching,
as
well
as
good
links
to
where
you
can
gain
the
knowledge
you
need.
“You
wouldn’t
try
to
take
an
important
test
without
studying
and
expect
to
pass,
right?
You
shouldn’t
try
to
successfully
breed
without
studying,
either.”
•
What
Makes
a
“Good
Quality”
Be#a?
(Con?nued)
Pictured
are
the
3D
renderings
of
BeMas4All
standard,
which
meets
closely
to
the
IBC
standards.
All
credits
to
Joep
van
Esch.
Veiltail
The
veiltail
is
a
form
which
gradually
has
disappeared
from
the
class
list
of
many
interna>onal
BeUa
shows.
We
personally
think
this
is
a
nega>ve
development,
because
we
should
not
forget
that
it
was
this
variety
which
was
the
base
of
the
development
of
the
modern
longfinned
show
BeUa.
Addi>onally
the
veiltail,
without
any
doubt,
is
the
most
known
variety
of
Be.a
splendens
among
the
public.
It
oaen
is
this
variety
which
is
responsible
for
people
gebng
“infected”
with
the
“beUa-­‐virus”.
Because
the
veiltail
is
s>ll
greatly
appreciated
among
aquarium
hobbyists
and
is
clearly
dis>nct
from
the
other
longfinned
show
BeUas
we
think
there
s>ll
should
be
room
for
this
variety
within
the
show
circuit.
We
therefore
developed
a
show
standard
for
veiltails
and
hope
that
this
standard
will
s>mulate
and
challenge
breeders
to
bring
the
current
quality
of
the
veiltail
to
a
higher
level
by
well-­‐thought
and
dedicated
breeding
programs
(see
Figure
3A).
Figure
3

14. Be#a
Basics
As
a
breeder
of
beUa
fish,
you
should
strive
to
improve
the
quality
of
the
species.
In
order
to
do
this
successfully
(and
with
minimal
head-­‐banging
against
the
wall,)
do
your
research.
The
following
is
a
list
of
the
most
important
and
basic
topics
you
should
be
researching,
as
well
as
good
links
to
where
you
can
gain
the
knowledge
you
need.
“You
wouldn’t
try
to
take
an
important
test
without
studying
and
expect
to
pass,
right?
You
shouldn’t
try
to
successfully
breed
without
studying,
either.”
•
What
Makes
a
“Good
Quality”
Be#a?
(Con?nued)
Pictured
are
the
3D
renderings
of
BeMas4All
standard,
which
meets
closely
to
the
IBC
standards.
All
credits
to
Joep
van
Esch.
Doubletail
The
ideal
doubletail
can
be
considered
as
the
ul>mate
example
of
symmetry
of
all
show
BeUas.
Because
of
the
broad
dorsal
fin
which
almost
resembles
the
anal
fin
in
both
width
and
shape
the
upper
part
and
lower
part
of
the
fish
nearly
are
a
mirror-­‐image.
In
many
standards
doubletails
are
allowed
to
have
a
shorter
body.
We
personally
feel
that
ideally
the
perfect
doubletail
should
have
a
good
propor>oned
body
which
is
comparable
to
that
of
any
singletail
variant
(see
Figure
4B).
Figure
4

15. Be#a
Basics
As
a
breeder
of
beUa
fish,
you
should
strive
to
improve
the
quality
of
the
species.
In
order
to
do
this
successfully
(and
with
minimal
head-­‐banging
against
the
wall,)
do
your
research.
The
following
is
a
list
of
the
most
important
and
basic
topics
you
should
be
researching,
as
well
as
good
links
to
where
you
can
gain
the
knowledge
you
need.
“You
wouldn’t
try
to
take
an
important
test
without
studying
and
expect
to
pass,
right?
You
shouldn’t
try
to
successfully
breed
without
studying,
either.”
•
What
Makes
a
“Good
Quality”
Be#a?
(Con?nued)
Pictured
are
the
3D
renderings
of
BeMas4All
standard,
which
meets
closely
to
the
IBC
standards.
All
credits
to
Joep
van
Esch.
Doubletail
According
to
the
BeUas4all
Standard,
the
ideal
crowntail
caudal
is
“double-­‐ray
(DR)”
and
shows
a
primary
branching
(2-­‐ray)
with
a
50%
reduc>on
in
webbing
between
the
primary
rays
and
a
25%
reduc>on
between
the
secondary
rays
thereby
crea>ng
a
crown-­‐like
appearance
(see
Figure
4C).
The
dorsal
and
anal
fin
of
the
crowntail
show
a
50%
reduc>on
in
webbing.
We
decided
to
choose
this
type
because
it
represents
a
good
balance
between
the
empty
spaces
and
remaining
webbing
between
the
rays
of
the
fins.
Two
variants
of
this
type
are
recognized,
the
normal
crossray
and
reverse
crossray.
Figure
4

16. Sec>on
2:
Spawning
Basics
•Fry
•Planning
for
the
Adults
•Methods
•Spawning
Steps

17. Spawning
Basics
As
a
breeder
of
beUa
fish,
you
should
strive
to
improve
the
quality
of
the
species.
In
order
to
do
this
successfully
(and
with
minimal
head-­‐banging
against
the
wall,)
do
your
research.
The
following
is
a
list
of
the
most
important
and
basic
topics
you
should
be
researching,
as
well
as
good
links
to
where
you
can
gain
the
knowledge
you
need.
“You
wouldn’t
try
to
take
an
important
test
without
studying
and
expect
to
pass,
right?
You
shouldn’t
try
to
successfully
breed
without
studying,
either.”
•
Preparing
for
the
Fry
The
most
difficult
part
of
the
en>re
breeding
process
is
dealing
with
the
fry.
They
are
fragile,
they
are
hungry,
and
they
excrete
a
stun>ng
hormone
into
the
water
that
will
keep
your
fish
from
growing
unless
daily
water
changes
are
made.
Be
sure
you
are
fully
prepared
to
spend
the
>me
that
is
necessary
to
raise
the
fry
to
adulthood.
Fry
Growth-­‐
Fry
Feeding-­‐
How
to
tell
the
Gender
of
Here
are
some
great
links
to
be#a
fry
Here
is
a
great
link
to
a
be#a
fry
growth
feeding
informa?on.
Note
how
?ny
a
Juvenile
Be#a-­‐
chart.
Note
how
?ny
be#a
fry
actually
As
they
grow
older,
you
may
no?ce
be#a
fry
actually
are-­‐
this
is
why
are-­‐
this
is
why
using
dividers
to
figh?ng
and
torn
fins
within
the
tank.
feeding
flakes
and
pellets
will
not
work.
separate
fry
will
not
work.
This
link
will
help
you
to
be
able
to
h#p://be#atalk.com/what_fry_eat.htm
h#p://be#atalk.com/fry_growth.htm
recognize
the
different
genders
of
the
h#p://be#ysplendens.com/ar?cles/
youngsters.
page.imp?ar?cleid=750
Clean
Water-­‐
h#p://be#atalk.com/
The
best
way
to
grow
your
fry
quickly
how_to_sex_be#as.htm
into
healthy
adults?
Clean
water.
Fry
Sickness-­‐
h#p://be#ysplendens.com/ar?cles/ Here
is
a
great
link
to
what
to
do
if
there
is
a
disease
outbreak
in
your
page.imp?ar?cleid=751
spawning
tank.
Jarring
Young
Be#as-­‐
The
last
step
before
they
reach
h#p://be#ysplendens.com/ar?cles/
Fry
Culling-­‐
page.imp?ar?cleid=749
adulthood,
jarring
can
be
difficult.
This
As
a
breeder,
it
is
up
to
you
when
to
cull
ar?cle
has
good
informa?on
on
what
to
or
not
to
cull
a
fry.
This
ar?cle
will
help
do,
and
what
not
to
do.
you
decide.
h#p://be#atalk.com/
h#p://be#ysplendens.com/ar?cles/ jarring_young_be#as.htm
page.imp?ar?cleid=1047

18. Spawning
Basics
As
a
breeder
of
beUa
fish,
you
should
strive
to
improve
the
quality
of
the
species.
In
order
to
do
this
successfully
(and
with
minimal
head-­‐banging
against
the
wall,)
do
your
research.
The
following
is
a
list
of
the
most
important
and
basic
topics
you
should
be
researching,
as
well
as
good
links
to
where
you
can
gain
the
knowledge
you
need.
“You
wouldn’t
try
to
take
an
important
test
without
studying
and
expect
to
pass,
right?
You
shouldn’t
try
to
successfully
breed
without
studying,
either.”
•
Plans
for
the
Adult
Offspring
This
is
one
of
the
biggest
factors
in
deciding
whether
or
not
to
spawn
your
beUas.
Keep
an
open
mind
on
the
informa>on
below,
and
ask
yourself
honestly-­‐
should
I
be
breeding
these
fish?
Currently
within
the
U.S.,
there
is
a
moderately
high
demand
for
good
quality
beUa
fish.
People
are
gebng
>red
of
having
to
pay
expensive
importa>on
costs,
at
such
a
high
risk
of
displacement
or
death
of
their
purchases.
That
being
said,
the
#1
way
for
a
breeder
to
be
rid
of
the
offspring
they
raise
is
by
offering
their
stock
for
sale,
and
shipping
cross-­‐country
to
hundreds
of
buyers.
Many
novice
breeders
say
“Well,
I
can
just
give
them
away
to
people.”
Be
realis>c
about
this-­‐
pet
store
beUa
fish
are
only
a
few
dollars.
If
people
genuinely
wanted
a
beUa
fish,
and
were
willing
to
purchase
the
proper
equipment
to
give
it
the
life
it
deserves,
wouldn’t
they
have
already
gone
and
purchased
one?
Nine
>mes
out
of
ten,
offering
a
free
beUa
fish
to
someone
will
result
in
“No
thanks,
I
don’t
have
the
>me
or
money
to
take
care
of
it.”
Fish
require
food,
aquariums,
filtra>on,
hea>ng
and
maintenance.
This
seems
to
be
too
much
of
a
hassle
for
most
people,
so
they
either
turn
you
down,
or
take
the
fish
and
end
up
trea>ng
it
inhumanely,
subjec>ng
it
to
a
life
in
a
bowl
of
cold,
dirty
water
un>l
it
dies
of
lethargy
and
disease.
Selling
the
fish
to
someone
who
is
willing
to
pay
a
higher
price
for
it
nearly
guarantees
a
beUer
life
for
the
beUa.
Since
you
are
the
one
who
brought
the
beUa
into
the
world,
you
should
do
everything
you
can
to
ensure
it
goes
to
a
suitable
and
caring
home.
As
a
result
of
this,
logically
you
will
have
more
na>onal
buyers
if
the
offspring
are
of
good
quality.
Expec>ng
to
breed
pet
store
fish
and
selling
the
offspring
for
much
higher
than
any
other
pet
store
fish
will
simply
not
happen.
Why
would
buyers
purchase
a
fish
from
you
that
is
gene>cally
and
physically
exactly
the
same
as
the
fish
sibng
in
cups
at
Petco?
People
like
to
feel
that
they
are
gebng
good
quality
for
their
money-­‐
so,
to
supply
good
quality,
you
must
first
start
with
good
quality.
Higher
quality
fish
may
cost
you
more
in
the
beginning,
but
the
difference
to
focus
on
is
the
ability
to
resell
the
offspring,
which
is
not
the
case
when
breeding
pet
store
fish.

19. Spawning
Basics
As
a
breeder
of
beUa
fish,
you
should
strive
to
improve
the
quality
of
the
species.
In
order
to
do
this
successfully
(and
with
minimal
head-­‐banging
against
the
wall,)
do
your
research.
The
following
is
a
list
of
the
most
important
and
basic
topics
you
should
be
researching,
as
well
as
good
links
to
where
you
can
gain
the
knowledge
you
need.
“You
wouldn’t
try
to
take
an
important
test
without
studying
and
expect
to
pass,
right?
You
shouldn’t
try
to
successfully
breed
without
studying,
either.”
•
Different
Methods
At
this
point,
you
should
familiarize
yourself
with
the
actual
process
of
spawning.
You
should
be
able
to
recall
what
steps
to
take
off
the
top
of
your
head,
instead
of
asking
as
you
go
along.
The
Plas>c
Tub
Method:
The
Hobbyist
Method:
This
is
becoming
more
and
more
popular
among
U.S.
This
is
by
far
the
most
common
of
all
methods
here
breeders,
as
tubs
from
walmart
are
MUCH
cheaper
in
the
U.S.,
and
generally
consists
of
a
ten
gallon
tank
than
large
tanks
at
pet
stores,
and
they
basically
and
a
chimney
glass
to
separate
the
female.
serve
the
same
purpose.
This
method
is
good
for
hUp://beUysplendens.com/ar>cles/page.imp? intermediate
breeders
who
have
a
good
grasp
of
ar>cleid=722
beUa
behavior.
hUp://beUysplendens.com/ar>cles/page.imp?
ar>cleid=723
The
Thai
Method:
Not
nearly
as
common
as
Hobbyist
or
Tub
methods,
the
Thai
method
is
a
very
close-­‐quarter,
fairly
risky
method
that
majority
of
Thailand
breeders
use.
The
spawning
begins
in
a
small
bowl,
and
the
fry
are
transferred
into
larger
round
tubs
outdoors
to
grow
out.
hUp://beUysplendens.com/ar>cles/page.imp?
ar>cleid=724

20. Spawning
Basics
As
a
breeder
of
beUa
fish,
you
should
strive
to
improve
the
quality
of
the
species.
In
order
to
do
this
successfully
(and
with
minimal
head-­‐banging
against
the
wall,)
do
your
research.
The
following
is
a
list
of
the
most
important
and
basic
topics
you
should
be
researching,
as
well
as
good
links
to
where
you
can
gain
the
knowledge
you
need.
“You
wouldn’t
try
to
take
an
important
test
without
studying
and
expect
to
pass,
right?
You
shouldn’t
try
to
successfully
breed
without
studying,
either.”
•
Understanding
the
Spawning
Process-­‐
Step
by
Step
At
this
point,
you
should
familiarize
yourself
with
the
actual
process
of
spawning.
You
should
be
able
to
recall
what
steps
to
take
off
the
top
of
your
head,
instead
of
asking
as
you
go
along.
Step
1-­‐
Selec?ng
the
Pair
As
a
breeder,
it
should
be
your
goal
to
improve
your
line
with
every
spawn.
This
means
selec>ng
a
pair
that
compliment
each
others
flaws.
For
example,
if
you
plan
to
breed
a
male
with
a
dip
in
his
head
(known
as
spoonhead,)
you
should
choose
to
breed
him
to
a
female
with
a
smooth
mouth-­‐to-­‐dorsal
topline.
If
you
have
a
halfmoon
male
that
should
have
a
wider
spread,
you
should
pair
him
to
a
female
with
more
branching
than
him.
Breeding
fish
that
have
the
same
nega>ve
characteris>cs
will
result
in
fry
with
even
worse
characteris>cs.
X
=
Example
of
a
complimentary
pair-­‐
a
male
with
a
spoonhead
crossed
with
a
female
with
a
smooth
topline
results
in
outstanding,
show-­‐
winning
offspring.
(Fish
owned
and
bred
by
Joep)

21. Spawning
Basics
As
a
breeder
of
beUa
fish,
you
should
strive
to
improve
the
quality
of
the
species.
In
order
to
do
this
successfully
(and
with
minimal
head-­‐banging
against
the
wall,)
do
your
research.
The
following
is
a
list
of
the
most
important
and
basic
topics
you
should
be
researching,
as
well
as
good
links
to
where
you
can
gain
the
knowledge
you
need.
“You
wouldn’t
try
to
take
an
important
test
without
studying
and
expect
to
pass,
right?
You
shouldn’t
try
to
successfully
breed
without
studying,
either.”
•
Understanding
the
Spawning
Process-­‐
Step
by
Step
At
this
point,
you
should
familiarize
yourself
with
the
actual
process
of
spawning.
You
should
be
able
to
recall
what
steps
to
take
off
the
top
of
your
head,
instead
of
asking
as
you
go
along.
Step
2-­‐
Condi?oning
the
Pair
For
these
fish,
the
breeding
process
is
a
very
precarious
and
physically
demanding
ordeal.
Males
should
be
condi>oned
in
order
to
be
able
to
successfully
impress
the
female,
construct
a
bubblenest,
and
tend
to
the
eggs
/
fry
for
several
days
following
without
feeding.
Females
should
be
condi>oned
to
boost
egg
produc>on,
and
to
be
able
to
handle
and
recover
from
the
bea>ng
and
chasing
of
the
male.
In
the
wild,
spawning
takes
place
more
frequently
when
there
is
an
abundance
of
food.
The
most
successful
condi>oning
process
is
completely
isola>ng
the
pair
you
wish
to
spawn
from
seeing
any
other
fish
for
a
few
weeks.
You
can
either
put
paper
in
between
their
tanks,
or
move
the
fish
completely
from
the
environment.
Isola>on
has
been
proven
to
help
boost
interest
in
pairs.
While
you
have
them
in
isola>on,
feed
them
mul>ple
>mes
daily
with
highly
nutri>ous
foods,
such
as
frozen
bloodworms,
mosquito
larvae,
brine
shrimp,
blackworms
and
grindal
worms.
Keep
their
water
clean,
and
if
you
prefer,
allow
the
pair
to
see
one
another
for
10
minutes
a
day,
once
a
day.
Keep
them
in
this
state
for
2
weeks,
and
you
will
see
their
colors
become
more
vibrant,
the
female
will
swell
with
eggs,
and
the
male
may
or
may
not
construct
a
bubblenest
in
his
own
container.

22. 1.)
Knowledge
and
Goals
As
a
breeder
of
beUa
fish,
you
should
strive
to
improve
the
quality
of
the
species.
In
order
to
do
this
successfully
(and
with
minimal
head-­‐banging
against
the
wall,)
do
your
research.
The
following
is
a
list
of
the
most
important
and
basic
topics
you
should
be
researching,
as
well
as
good
links
to
where
you
can
gain
the
knowledge
you
need.
“You
wouldn’t
try
to
take
an
important
test
without
studying
and
expect
to
pass,
right?
You
shouldn’t
try
to
successfully
breed
without
studying,
either.”
•
Understanding
the
Spawning
Process-­‐
Step
by
Step
At
this
point,
you
should
familiarize
yourself
with
the
actual
process
of
spawning.
You
should
be
able
to
recall
what
steps
to
take
off
the
top
of
your
head,
instead
of
asking
as
you
go
along.
Step
3-­‐
Introducing
the
Pair
Depending
on
which
method
you
choose,
majority
of
the
>me
breeders
will
release
the
male
into
the
spawning
tank
first,
then
place
the
female
within
a
jar
or
glass
chimney
in
the
spawning
tank
to
allow
the
male
to
see
her,
yet
not
touch
her.
This
encourages
flaring
and
flir>ng
between
the
two,
as
well
as
the
construc>on
of
the
bubblenest
by
the
male.
Aaer
12-­‐48
hours,
the
female
is
released
into
the
tank
just
before
lights
out
in
the
fish
room.
It
is
crucial
to
keep
an
eye
on
the
pair
in
how
they
react
to
one
another;
this
is
where
your
knowledge
of
be#a
behavior
comes
in.
If
they
flirt
and
he
chases
her
here
and
there,
things
should
be
on
the
right
track.
If
she
shows
horizontal
stripes
and
seems
disinterested
or
terrified,
separate
the
two
and
go
back
to
step
one.
Keep
the
spawning
tank
away
from
a
high-­‐traffic
area,
or
drape
a
towel
over
the
tank.
It
is
important
to
let
the
pair
have
their
privacy-­‐
aoer
all,
would
YOU
want
an
audience
pushing
their
face
up
against
the
glass?
The
spawning
process
can
begin
anywhere
from
1-­‐48
hours
of
releasing
her
into
the
tank.
Typically,
the
male
will
chase
the
female
un>l
she
flees
into
hiding,
and
he
will
con>nue
construc>on
of
the
nest.
Once
he
feels
the
nest
is
adequate,
he
will
“dance”
in
an
S
fashion
under
the
nest,
and
approach
the
female
in
a
more
seduc>ve
manner.
Once
she
feels
comfortable
enough,
she
will
approach
the
nest
and
inspect
it.
She
may
or
may
not
rip
it
apart,
as
her
way
of
saying
“not
good
enough
for
me
yet.”
If
she
approves,
the
male
will
approach
her,
and
usually
the
pair
will
begin
nosing
into
each
others
sides,
trying
to
figure
out
the
right
posi>on
to
embrace.

23. 1.)
Knowledge
and
Goals
As
a
breeder
of
beUa
fish,
you
should
strive
to
improve
the
quality
of
the
species.
In
order
to
do
this
successfully
(and
with
minimal
head-­‐banging
against
the
wall,)
do
your
research.
The
following
is
a
list
of
the
most
important
and
basic
topics
you
should
be
researching,
as
well
as
good
links
to
where
you
can
gain
the
knowledge
you
need.
“You
wouldn’t
try
to
take
an
important
test
without
studying
and
expect
to
pass,
right?
You
shouldn’t
try
to
successfully
breed
without
studying,
either.”
•
Understanding
the
Spawning
Process-­‐
Step
by
Step
At
this
point,
you
should
familiarize
yourself
with
the
actual
process
of
spawning.
You
should
be
able
to
recall
what
steps
to
take
off
the
top
of
your
head,
instead
of
asking
as
you
go
along.
Step
4-­‐
The
Act
of
Spawning
Contrary
to
popular
belief,
the
male
does
not
“squeeze”
the
eggs
out
of
the
female.
Instead,
when
the
pair
wrap
correctly
and
“click,”
the
female
willingly
releases
and
expels
her
eggs
into
the
water
at
the
same
>me
the
male
releases
his
semen.
The
eggs
become
fer>lized
mid-­‐sinking,
and
are
then
scooped
up
by
the
male
and
blown
into
the
bubblenest
as
the
female
remains
unconscious-­‐looking
at
the
surface
of
the
water.
(Note-­‐
she’s
not
dead!
Just
a
li#le
stunned.)
Researchers
suggest
that
fer>liza>on
may
con>nue
with
the
eggs
in
the
bubblenest,
however
this
is
only
a
theory.

24. Spawning
Basics
As
a
breeder
of
beUa
fish,
you
should
strive
to
improve
the
quality
of
the
species.
In
order
to
do
this
successfully
(and
with
minimal
head-­‐banging
against
the
wall,)
do
your
research.
The
following
is
a
list
of
the
most
important
and
basic
topics
you
should
be
researching,
as
well
as
good
links
to
where
you
can
gain
the
knowledge
you
need.
“You
wouldn’t
try
to
take
an
important
test
without
studying
and
expect
to
pass,
right?
You
shouldn’t
try
to
successfully
breed
without
studying,
either.”
•
Understanding
the
Spawning
Process-­‐
Step
by
Step
At
this
point,
you
should
familiarize
yourself
with
the
actual
process
of
spawning.
You
should
be
able
to
recall
what
steps
to
take
off
the
top
of
your
head,
instead
of
asking
as
you
go
along.
Step
5-­‐
Post-­‐Spawning
Embracing
can
last
anywhere
from
1
hour
to
7+
hours.
They
will
wrap
con>nuously
un>l
either
one
or
both
of
them
decides
they
are
finished.
Once
this
happens,
the
male
instantly
becomes
very
protec?ve
over
the
nest,
and
sees
the
female
as
a
threat.
Remove
her
from
the
spawning
tank
at
this
>me,
or
he
will
try
to
kill
her.
When
removing
her,
be
careful
not
to
bump
into
the
nest
as
this
could
cause
all
of
the
eggs
to
spill
out
onto
the
floor.
Place
the
female
into
a
warm,
quiet,
medicated
tank
to
help
her
recover
from
her
wounds.
A
good
meal
is
also
a
great
idea.
The
male
will
then
be
very
aUen>ve
to
the
nest,
scooping
up
and
replacing
any
fallen
eggs
back
into
the
nest.
There
are
>mes
when
the
male
decides
to
eat
the
eggs-­‐
this
is
fairly
common
with
males
new
to
breeding,
so
if
this
happens
to
you,
start
at
step
1
and
try
again.
If
aaer
a
few
aUempts
he
s>ll
eats
the
eggs,
you
may
consider
re>ring
him
as
a
breeder
and
finding
a
different
male
to
use.
Aaer
24-­‐48
hours,
the
fry
will
begin
hatching,
and
will
appear
as
>ny
hair-­‐like
strands
hanging
from
the
nest.
Aaer
3
days
or
so,
the
fry
will
become
freeswimming
like
normal
fish.
(I
do
not
recommend
feeding
the
male
at
any
point
during
this
period,
as
you
risk
spiking
his
appe>te
and
contamina>ng
the
water
with
robng
uneaten
food.)
Aaer
these
three
days,
you
can
remove
the
male,
as
he
will
probably
be
dar>ng
around
in
vain
trying
to
keep
all
of
his
fry
in
the
nest.

25. Sec>on
3:
BeUa
Gene>cs
•Terminology
•What
is
the
PunneU
Square?
•Finnage
Gene>cs
•Color
Gene>cs

26. Be#a
Gene?cs
As
a
breeder
of
beUa
fish,
you
should
strive
to
improve
the
quality
of
the
species.
In
order
to
do
this
successfully
(and
with
minimal
head-­‐banging
against
the
wall,)
do
your
research.
The
following
is
a
list
of
the
most
important
and
basic
topics
you
should
be
researching,
as
well
as
good
links
to
where
you
can
gain
the
knowledge
you
need.
“You
wouldn’t
try
to
take
an
important
test
without
studying
and
expect
to
pass,
right?
You
shouldn’t
try
to
successfully
breed
without
studying,
either.”
•
Terminology
In
order
to
understand
what
you’re
reading
and
discussing
with
others,
you
must
learn
the
terminology
of
beUa
gene>cs.
If
you’ve
taken
a
biology
/
gene>cs
class
in
the
past,
you
should
catch
on
quickly.
If
not,
however,
I’m
going
to
break
it
down
for
you.
(Special
thanks
to
Joep
for
the
easy-­‐to-­‐understand
defini>ons.)
DNA:
A
nucleic
acid
that
carries
the
gene>c
informa>on
in
the
cell.
DNA
is
capable
of
self-­‐replica>on.
DNA
is
synthesis
of
RNA.
DNA
consists
of
two
long
chains
of
nucleo>des
twisted
into
a
double
helix
and
joined
by
hydrogen
bonds
between
the
complementary
bases
adenine
and
thymine
or
cytosine
and
guanine.
The
sequence
of
nucleo>des
determines
individual
hereditary
characteris>cs.
Gene:
The
units
of
inheritance
that
transmit
informa>on
from
parents
to
offspring.
Chromosome:
A
long
threadlike
associa>on
of
genes
in
the
nucleus
of
all
eukaryo>c
cells
which
are
visible
during
meiosis
and
mitosis.
A
chromosome
consists
out
of
DNA
and
proteins.
An
organism
always
has
2n
chromosomes,
which
means
that
all
chromosomes
are
paired.
Genotype:
This
is
the
gene>c
makeup
of
an
organism:
the
genes.
Phenotype:
The
physical
and
physiological
traits
of
an
organism.
These
are
influenced
by
gene>c
makeup
(genes)
and
surrounding.
Allele:
Another
word
for
gene.
Each
chromosome
has
a
copy
of
this
allel,
thus
a
gene-­‐pair.
Homozygous:
This
term
indicates
that
an
organism
has
two
iden>cal
alleles
at
a
single
place
on
a
chromosome.
This
results
in
an
organism
that
breeds
true
for
only
one
trait.
Heterozygous:
This
term
indicates
that
an
organism
has
two
different
copies
of
a
gene
on
each
chromosome.
Dominant
gene:
In
a
heterozygote,
this
allele
(gene)
is
fully
expressed
in
the
phenotype.
In
gene>c
schemes,
these
genes
are
always
depicted
with
a
capital
leUer.
Recessive
gene:
In
a
heterozygote,
this
allele
(gene)
is
completely
masked
in
the
phenotype.
In
gene>c
schemes,
these
genes
are
always
depicted
with
a
lower
case
leUer.
Intermediair
gene:
This
is
when
in
a
heterozygote,
an
allele
(gene)
is
not
fully
masked
in
the
phenotype.
You
can
already
see
some
of
the
characteris>cs
of
the
gene.
Good
examples
of
this
are
the
genes
for
crown-­‐
and
doubletail.
-­‐
Fish
with
only
one
copy
of
the
crowntail
(ct)
gene
(will
most
of
the
>me)
already
show
some
ray
extensions.
-­‐
Fish
with
only
one
copy
of
the
doubletail
(dt)
gene
(will
most
of
the
>me)
already
show
a
broader
dorsal
fin
and
fuller
finnage.

27. Be#a
Gene?cs
As
a
breeder
of
beUa
fish,
you
should
strive
to
improve
the
quality
of
the
species.
In
order
to
do
this
successfully
(and
with
minimal
head-­‐banging
against
the
wall,)
do
your
research.
The
following
is
a
list
of
the
most
important
and
basic
topics
you
should
be
researching,
as
well
as
good
links
to
where
you
can
gain
the
knowledge
you
need.
“You
wouldn’t
try
to
take
an
important
test
without
studying
and
expect
to
pass,
right?
You
shouldn’t
try
to
successfully
breed
without
studying,
either.”
•
Terminology
/
What
is
the
Punne#
Square?
In
order
to
understand
what
you’re
reading
and
discussing
with
others,
you
must
learn
the
terminology
of
beUa
gene>cs.
If
you’ve
taken
a
biology
/
gene>cs
class
in
the
past,
you
should
catch
on
quickly.
If
not,
however,
I’m
going
to
break
it
down
for
you.
(Special
thanks
to
Joep
for
the
easy-­‐to-­‐understand
defini>ons.)
How
to
indicate
the
different
generaFons?
When
two
unrelated
parents
(P)
are
crossed
their
hybrid
offspring
is
called
the
F1
genera?on
(for
the
first
filial
genera>on).
When
the
F1
genera>on
is
interbred
their
offspring
is
called
the
F2
genera?on
(for
the
second
filial
genera>on).
When
the
F2
genera>on
is
interbred
their
offspring
is
called
the
F3
genera?on
(for
the
third
filial
genera>on).
And
so
on........
___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Now
try
to
visualize
this
using
for
example
the
allele
for
hair
color
in
humans:
Brown
hair
is
a
dominant
trait.
How
is
it
possible
that
two
parents
with
brown
hair
get
a
blond
daughter
of
son?
The
allele
for
“brown
hair”
is
dominant
and
depicted
with
“B”.
The
allele
for
“blond
hair”
is
recessive
and
depicted
with
“b”.
The
answer
lies
here:
Remember
that
all
alleles
come
in
pairs
and
that
the
parents
have
to
be
heterozygous
for
the
allel
for
haircolor.
This
means
that
both
parents
have
to
posses
the
recessive
trait
for
blond
hair
(“b”)
besides
the
dominant
trait
for
brown
hair
(“B”),
thus
“Bb”.
The
best
thing
to
visualize
this
is
by
the
use
of
a
PunneU-­‐square:
Summary:
The
offspring
of
two
parents
carrying
the
heterozygous
“Bb”
genotype
can
result
in
the
following
offspring:
25%
homozygous
for
brown
hair
(“BB”),
50%
heterozygous
for
brown
hair
(“Bb”)
and
25%
homozygous
for
blond
hair
(“bb”).

28. Be#a
Gene?cs
As
a
breeder
of
beUa
fish,
you
should
strive
to
improve
the
quality
of
the
species.
In
order
to
do
this
successfully
(and
with
minimal
head-­‐banging
against
the
wall,)
do
your
research.
The
following
is
a
list
of
the
most
important
and
basic
topics
you
should
be
researching,
as
well
as
good
links
to
where
you
can
gain
the
knowledge
you
need.
“You
wouldn’t
try
to
take
an
important
test
without
studying
and
expect
to
pass,
right?
You
shouldn’t
try
to
successfully
breed
without
studying,
either.”
•
Finnage
Gene?cs
You’ve
probably
asked
yourself
something
along
the
lines
of
“I
wonder
what
I’ll
get
if
I
cross
a
HM
to
a
CT?”
Well,
in
order
to
figure
out
the
answer
to
this,
you
need
to
understand
the
gene>cs
behind
each
different
form.
You
will
also
need
to
learn
the
basic
terminology
used
for
each
different
form.
This
is
cri>cal
informa>on
for
new
breeders.
Things
to
keep
in
mind:
Long
fins
are
dominant.
Short
fins
are
recessive.
CT
&
DT
are
intermediair.
Veiltail:
*Dominant
VT
x
VT
=
VT
VT
x
CT
=
VT
with
reduced
webbing
VT
x
HM
=
VT
/
SD
VT
x
PK
=
VT
VT
x
DT
=
VT
with
broad
fins

29. Be#a
Gene?cs
As
a
breeder
of
beUa
fish,
you
should
strive
to
improve
the
quality
of
the
species.
In
order
to
do
this
successfully
(and
with
minimal
head-­‐banging
against
the
wall,)
do
your
research.
The
following
is
a
list
of
the
most
important
and
basic
topics
you
should
be
researching,
as
well
as
good
links
to
where
you
can
gain
the
knowledge
you
need.
“You
wouldn’t
try
to
take
an
important
test
without
studying
and
expect
to
pass,
right?
You
shouldn’t
try
to
successfully
breed
without
studying,
either.”
•
Finnage
Gene?cs
You’ve
probably
asked
yourself
“I
wonder
what
I’ll
get
if
I
cross
a
HM
to
a
CT?”
Well,
in
order
to
figure
out
the
answer
to
this,
you
need
to
understand
the
gene>cs
behind
each
different
form.
You
will
also
need
to
learn
the
basic
terminology
used
for
each
different
form.
This
is
cri>cal
informa>on
for
new
breeders.
Things
to
keep
in
mind:
Long
fins
are
dominant.
Short
fins
are
recessive.
CT
&
DT
are
intermediair.
Doubletail:
*Recessive
&
Intermediair
DT
x
DT
=
DT
with
heavy
deformi?es
DT
x
VT
=
VT
with
broad
fins
DT
x
CT
=
CT
with
broad
fins
DT
x
HM
=
HM
with
broad
fins
DT
(longfinned)
x
PK
=
SD
with
broad
fins
DT
(shorsinned)
x
PK
=
PK
with
broad
fins

30. Be#a
Gene?cs
As
a
breeder
of
beUa
fish,
you
should
strive
to
improve
the
quality
of
the
species.
In
order
to
do
this
successfully
(and
with
minimal
head-­‐banging
against
the
wall,)
do
your
research.
The
following
is
a
list
of
the
most
important
and
basic
topics
you
should
be
researching,
as
well
as
good
links
to
where
you
can
gain
the
knowledge
you
need.
“You
wouldn’t
try
to
take
an
important
test
without
studying
and
expect
to
pass,
right?
You
shouldn’t
try
to
successfully
breed
without
studying,
either.”
•
Finnage
Gene?cs
You’ve
probably
asked
yourself
“I
wonder
what
I’ll
get
if
I
cross
a
HM
to
a
CT?”
Well,
in
order
to
figure
out
the
answer
to
this,
you
need
to
understand
the
gene>cs
behind
each
different
form.
You
will
also
need
to
learn
the
basic
terminology
used
for
each
different
form.
This
is
cri>cal
informa>on
for
new
breeders.
Things
to
keep
in
mind:
Long
fins
are
dominant.
Short
fins
are
recessive.
CT
&
DT
are
intermediair.
Halfmoon:
*Recessive
AND
Dominant
(In
order
to
achieve
a
complete
HM,
three
things
must
be
met-­‐
straight
caudal
rays,
adequate
branching,
and
adequate
webbing
between
branches
to
spread
the
full
180*.
Some?mes
HM
x
HM
will
only
result
in
a
small
amount
of
HM.)
HM
x
DT
=
HM
with
broad
fins
HM
x
VT
=
DeT
/
SD
with
broad
fins
HM
x
CT
=
SD
with
web
reduc?on
(Combtails)
HM
x
HM
=
HM
&
SD
HM
(longfinned)
x
PK
=
SD
HM
(shorsinned)
x
PK
=
PK