1. Mechanical
Finishing Of woolen
and worsted
suiting fabrics
Under The Guidance Of: Professor Mr. R.K.Malik
Prepared By: Vinay Indorker
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2. Methods Used for material
All wool material All wool Lycra
Grey Decatizing Shrinkage
Singeing Heat setting
Decatizing
Scouring K/D
Process Flow
Hydro Extraction Singeing
Drying/ Padding Scouring
In process Inspection Hydro Extraction
Cropping Padding/ Drying
In process Inspection
Pilling Test Cropping
Decatizing Pilling Test
Super finish Nikki Press
Shrinkage Decatizing
Shrinkage Test Wet Heat Setting
Shrinkage Test
K/D K/D
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3. Poly wool Poly wool Lycra
Heat-setting Shrinkage
Singeing Singeing
Scouring Scouring
Process Flow
Hydro extraction Hydro Extraction
Padding and Drying Padding/ Drying
In process inspection In process Inspection
Cropping Cropping
Pilling Test Pilling Test
Decatizing Decatizing
Rotary press Rotary Press
KD Wet Heat Setting
Super Finish Shrinkage Test
K/D
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4. ALL WOOL/MILLING POLY VISCOSE
Milling BLENDED
Hydro Extraction Heat Setting
Process Flow
Padding/Drying For Scouring and Drying
In Process Inspection After drying
Relaxation Singing
Loss Measurement Scouring on Jigger M/C
Cropping Hydro Extraction
Decatizing(Double) Padding
Shrinkage Decatizing on K/D
K/D
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5. Process Description
Heat Setting and Drying:
• Mainly applied to the fabrics that contain synthetic fibres.
• Involves the elimination of the internal tensions within the
fiber.
• Drying after padding with chemicals can also be done.
• Mode of Heating: Oil type heating.
• Over-feed: 0.5- 1.5%
• Speed: Varies with the Material.
• Padding chemicals: softener, anti-pill, nano finish etc.
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6. Singeing:
• For smoothing surfaces of fabrics by burning and removing
fuzz thereon.
• Speed: 55-90m/min
Scouring:
• Removes dust, dirt, Wax, Grease and oil content caused due
to earlier processes.
• Temperature, Speed, pH, & time of Scouring Plays an imp.
role.
Hydro Extraction:
• Water is removed from the fabric by means of application of
Centrifugal force.
• High speed rotating perforated bin is used.
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7. Cropping:
• Brushing and Shearing operations are done simultaneously.
• Cylinder wound with the Helical blades is used.
• Machine Gauzing is set as per the fabric Quality required.
Decatizing:
• Objectives: To stabilize lustre & to stabilize dimensional
stability.
• Wrapper fabric : Cotton-PET Blend with Satin weave is used.
• Fabric is steamed in wrapped condition.
• Steaming Time: 3 min.
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8. Pressing:
• Creases are remove completely and the luster is increased.
• Two Types: 1. Rotary Press. 2. Flat Press
Kier Decatizing:
• Similar to the Decatizing process.
• Fabric is operated in a closed Chamber.
• Steam pressure: 0.8- 1.0 bar.
• Kier Temperature:120-125oC for 2min.
Shrinkage Machine:
• Fabric is laid over Nylon Belt.
• Allowed to pass through the steam in a relaxed condition.
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9. Super Finish:
• Fabric is first subjected to the Corino unit.
• The fabric is subjected to a water spraying unit.
• After this, the fabric is supplied into rotary unit.
• Thereafter it is transferred to a Decatizing unit.
• Imparts lustrous appearance along with handle to the
Fabric.
• Fully automatic machine.
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10. References
• Wool: Science & Technology, Edited By W S Simpson and G H
Crawshaw; Page 314-326.
• Technology Of Textile Finishing, By V.A.Shenai; Page 333-370.
• Mr. Swapnil Jain, Deputy Manager, Finishing Deptt., Digjam
Ltd.
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