1. Guest lecture on
FABRIC STRUCTURE AND
DESIGN
by
Gopalakrishnan Duraisamy
Quantum Textile Professional & Team
Coimbatore
29 May 2023 1

2. PART – II
TYPES OF WEAVES
by
Gopalakrishnan Duraisamy
Quantum Textile Professional & Team
Coimbatore
29 May 2023 2

3. 29 May 2023 3

4. Fundamental Weaves
• Weft or warp threads must have only one warp
or weft overlapping within the repeat.
• The number of warp threads in a repeat must
be equal to the number threads.
• There are 3 kinds of fundamental weaves:
• Plain
• Twill
• Sateen
• Each weave is determined by 2 parameters:
• The repeat, R of weave.
• The shift, S of overlapping either vertical
shift, Sx or Horizontal shift, Sy
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5. Plain Weave
• The simplest weave where the threads
interlace in alternate order and
classified as balanced and unbalanced.
• In trade, such terms as tabby, calico,
batiste are applied to plain weave
fabrics.
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6. Twill Weaves
• The twill order of interlacing produces
diagonal lines on the cloth.
• The purpose is to make cloth havier,
closer setting and better drapping.
• The parameters: R ≥ 3 Sx = Sy = + 1
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7. Regular Sateen and Satin and Irregular Sateen Weaves
Sateen Weaves
• In pure sateen weaves the surface of the
cloth consists almost entirely of weft
floats.
• The parameters of sateen weaves: R ≥ 5; 1
< S < (R – 1)
• For regular sateen the shift (S) and
repeat (R) must be expressed by prime
numbers, it’s called weft face fabric.
• The sateen weave is denoted by a fraction
and the numerator of this fraction is
equal to the repeat of weave.
• The denominator is equal to the shift (Sy)
of overlaps.
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8. Satin (Warp Face Fabric)
• Usually constructed using
the vertical shift (Sx).
• Satin has the warp effect,
and the density of warp is
much higher than the
density of weft.
Sx=3
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9. Irregular Sateen
• Regular sateen cannot be constructed with
a repeat of four or six threads, because the
repeat and shift cannot be expressed by
mutually prime numbers.
• It is impossible to construct the regular
sateen if R = 6, because among the possible
values of shift found from the formula 1 < S
< (R - 1), i.e. 1 < S < 5, the number 2, 3, 4
have a common divisor with 6.
• In this case, we cannot choose a constant
shift, but the sateen with a variable shift can
be constructed.
• This sateen is called irregular sateen.
• 4-shaft irregular sateen can be constructed
by using the shifts 1, 2, 3, 2 as shown aside.
• 6-shaft irregular sateen with constructed
shifts 2, 3, 4, 4, 3, 2 as shown aside.
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10. Derivatives of Fundamental Weaves
“Constructed by means of deriving from plain, twill and sateen
weaves, and retain their structural features”
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11. Plain Weave Derivatives
• This group of structure comprises various simple weave which are
varieties of the plain weave and can be produced on two heald
shafts.
Warp Rep Weaves:
Denoted by a fraction.
The numerator shows the
number of warp overlapping and
the denominator, the number of
weft overlapping on the same
thread within repeat.
Extending the plain weave
vertically.
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12. Weft Rep Weave:
Opposite to warp rep weave.
Extending the plain weave
horizontally.
Denoted by a fraction.
Sum of the fraction numerator and
denominator equal to the warp
repeat.
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13. Rug from Rep Weave
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14. Hopsack Weaves:
Constructed by extending the plain
weave both vertically and
horizontally.
There are 2 or more warp threads
working in the same manner and 2 or
more weft threads grouped in the
same shed.
It’s denoted by a fraction, the
numerator is the number of warp
overlapping, and the denominator is
that of weft overlapping on each
thread.
The sum of the numerator and
denominator shows the repeat on
warp and weft. 29 May 2023 14

15. 29 May 2023 15

16. Fabric from Hopsack Weave
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17. Fabric from Hopsack Weave
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18. 29 May 2023 18

19. Weaves Constructed on Twill Bases
• Regular twill are often used as the bases for the construction of new weaves.
Reinforced Twills:
 Warp overlaps are added to the single warp
overlaps of the basic weft-face twill.
 The simplest reinforced twill is twill 2/2
(widely used).
 In producing this twill the same four shafts can
be used for making the selvedges on the warp
rep weave (necessary to coordinate the
operation of shedding and picking
mechanisms).
 Retain the property of the original twill.
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20. Reinforced twill 2/2 (left hand twill, Sy = -1)
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21. Compound Twill:
It is obtained in parallel construction
of two or more twill weaves on the
same area.
The number of shafts for producing
compound twill is equal to its repeat.
Retain the property of the original
twill.
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22. Fabric from compound twill
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23. Angled Twill
Constructed by changing the sign of shift from plus to minus, after an
assigned number of threads.
With the change of sign, the direction of twill diagonal is also changed.
To construct:
i. Calculate its repeat
ii. Weft repeat = Repeat of basic twill
iii. Warp repeat can be determined by the formula, Rx = 2Kx - 2
Rx = repeat of warp
Kx = number of warp threads after the sign of shift changes.
Ryb = repeat of the basic twill
Ky = no of weft threads after the sign of shit changes
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24.  Example:
Construct the angled twill on the basis of twill 2/4. The repeat of basis
twill is 6.
Answer:
Ry = Ryb = 6
Rx = 2Kx – 2 = 2 (6) – 2 = 10
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25. Diagonal Twill
Construct the basic twill with an increased vertical shift (to increase the
inclination angle of the diagonal changes).
The increase of the shift from one to two is equivalent to the doubling of
warp density (practically the shift can be accepted equal to two or three).
Can be constructed into 2 cases:
i. The repeat of basic twill can be divided by the increased shift.
Warp repeat, Rx = R ÷ So
Weft repeat, Ry = R
ii. The repeat of the basic twill cannot be divided by the increased shift.
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26.  Example 1:
Construct a diagonal weave on the basis of twill 4 . 4 .
1 , if Sx = 2.
1 . 2 . 2
Answer:
Warp repeat;
Rx = R ÷ Sx R = 14
= 14 ÷ 2 Sx = 2
= 7
Weft repeat;
Ry = R
= 14
 First warp constructed according the basic twill.
 Second warp constructed according to the same formula but the shift equal to
two, and so on.
 If the repeat of the basis twill is nit divided by the increased shift the diagonal
weave will have repeat Rx = Ry = R.
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27.  Example 2:
Construct a diagonal weave on the basis of twill 5 . 1 . 1 , if Sx= 2
1 . 2 . 1
Answer:
In this case, Rx = 11 and Ry = 11
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28. Fabric from diagonal twill
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29. Shaded Twill:
Represent a gradual transition from twill with weft effect to
the twill with warp effect and vice-versa.
Mostly used Jacquard weaving for large-pattern fabrics.
The repeat on warp and weft for the shaded twill is
determined by the formula;
Warp repeat, Rx = Rxb (Rxb – 1)
Weft repeat, Ry = Ryb
Only straight draft is used.
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30.  Example:
Construct a shaded twill weave on the transitions of shaded twill 1 to 4 .
4 1
Answer:
Rx = Rxb (Rxb – 1)
= 5 (5 -1)
= 5 X 4
= 20
Ry = Ryb
= 5
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31. Fabric from shaded twill
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32. Weaves Constructed on Sateen Bases
In simple derivatives, a new design is built up by using
the original sateen as the base and adding overlaps, as
required to each base overlap.
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33. Reinforced Sateen:
Similar to reinforced twill.
If it is necessary to construct the reinforced sateen on the basis of
simple sateen 8/5.
One more overlap should be added to every overlap of the basis sateen.
Widely used in cotton weaving (additional overlaps in the repeat make
the fabric structure stronger).
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34. Shaded Sateen:
 Like the shaded twill.
 Shaded sateen represents a gradual transition from
the sateen with weft effect to the sateen with warp
effect, vice versa.
 The repeat Ry and Ro of the shaded sateen is
determined by the formula;
 Ry = Ryb
 Ro = Rob (Rob – 1)
 Example:
Construct a shaded sateen weave on the
transitions of shaded sateen 5/3.
Answer:
Ry – Ryb = 5
Ro = Rob (Rob -1)
= 5 (5 – 1)
= 5 X 4
= 20
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35. THANK YOU
Email: dgk.psgtech@gmail.com
Mobile: +91 9600953305
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