Hair After Cancer

Hair After Cancer
A comprehensive guide to
treating and caring for the hair
and scalps of cancer survivors
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Medical Disclaimer
Nothing in this presentation should be considered or relied upon as
medical advice. Medical patients should always seek the advice of their
physicians before making any decisions regarding their health. Organic
Salon Systems does not, and anything in this presentation should not be
considered as, providing medical advice of any kind whatsoever.
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Outline of Presentation
This aftercare presentation will cover the following points:
Introduction: Introduction to Organic Salon Systems
Section A: Review of essential information about hair and scalp, including ethnic
differences
Section B: Effect of cancer treatments on hair. Hair analysis and correct
treatment of hair
Section C: Coloring, perming and straightening hair after cancer
Section D: FAQ’s
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Organic Salon Systems
The worldwide leader in more natural, organic, and gentler professional-
only salon products that eliminate or minimize the harmful and dangerous
chemicals while providing the hairstylist with superior performance
Online: http://www.OrganicSalonSystems.com
Facebook: http://www.Facebook.com/OrganicSalonSystems
YouTube: http://www.YourTube.com/OrganicColorSystems
Twitter: http://www.Twitter.com/OrganicColorSys
Color Site: http://www.OrganicColorSystems.com
Phone: (888) 312-4744
Fax: (727) 585-2300
Email: CustomerService@OrganicColorCystems.com
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Organic
Salon
Systems
Products

• Free
from
ammonia,
parabens,
formaldehyde,

resorcinol,
and
thioglycolates.

• Contain
CerFfied
Organic
Ingredients
(cerFfied

by
the
United
Kingdom
Soil
AssociaFon)

• Exceeding
all
European
Union
standards

regulaFng
cosmeFcs
and
beauty
products

• PETA
cerFfied
as
being
100%
cruelty-‐free
and

vegan

• Fair-‐Trade
accredited
and
cerFfied

Organic
Color
Systems
(Color)

• 65
intermixable
colors

• Superior
grey
coverage,
cleaner
blondes,
&

beauFful
reds
that
fade
on
tone

• No
damage
to
the
hair
cuFcle
allowing
for
a
far

healthier
and
lavish
result

• Up
to
3
levels
of
liV
with
color
&
7
levels
of
liV

with
lightener

• True
to
color
chart
results

• Semi,
demi
or
permanent
results

• Longer
lasFng
tonal
values

Organic
Curl
Systems

Organic
Curl
Systems
is
an

innovaFve
perm,
straightener,

and
relaxer
that
is
both

ammonia
and
thioglycolate

free,
while
containing
cerFﬁed

organic
extracts.

It
produces
a

bounce
and
curl
formaFon
that

is
healthy
and
looks
natural.

Organic
Care
Systems

Organic
Care
Systems
not
only
is
the
perfect
back
bar
for
the
color
line
but,

your
clients
will
also
love
to
take
them
home
to
maintain
their
hair
between

visits.

These
products
contain
no
animal
products,
parabens
or
SLS.

They
are

never
tested
on
animals
and
are
made
with
cerFﬁed
organic
ingredients.

The
Organic
Control
and
Connect
lines
give
all
the
styling
hold
and

manipulaFon
you
have
come
to
expect
without
the
use
of
heavy
chemicals
or

plasFcs.
They
give
great
shine
and
a
natural
feel,
never
drying
briYle
or
hard.

KeraGreen

KeraGreen
is
a
revoluFonary
new
formaldehyde-‐free
organic

keraFn
system.

It
includes
a
full
line
of
treatments,
shampoos,

condiFoners,
and
serums
providing
a
more
natural,
organic,

healthier
and
beYer-‐performing
alternaFve
to
formaldehyde-‐
based
Brazilian
KeraFn
Treatments.

Malibu
Wellness

Malibu
Wellness
products
use
a
patented,
fresh
dried
vitamin

complex
that
is
water
acFvated
to
normalize
the
ph
of
the

hair
and
scalp
and
remove
minerals
and
oxidizers
to
ensure

consistent
and
superior
salon
services.

Great
for
areas
and

salons
with
hard
water
condiFons.

Section A
Essential Information About the Hair
and Scalp
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The Structure of Hair
Hair can be divided into 3 main elements:
The cuticle
The cortex
The medulla
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The Cuticle
This is the outer layer of hair and comprises between 7
and 10 layers of flat scales.
It protects the cortex underneath it.
It is transparent.
Take the pH up the scale and the cuticle opens Lower
the pH and the cuticle closes down.
The cuticle can be damaged by daily combing and
brushing, as well as environmental influences, e.g. the
sun.
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The Cortex
The cortex makes up the majority of the hair.
It is here that we can permanently alter the color or
shape of the hair.
The cortex also determines how strong and how
elastic the hair is.
The color pigments are found in the cortex.
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The Medulla
The medulla is found in the centre of the hair.
It is a hollow shaft and is often fragmented, rather
than being a continuous tube.
It is believed that the original function of the medulla
was to assist with insulation – this function is present
in the fur of many animals.
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The Composition of Hair
Hair is composed partially from a special protein called keratin.
Keratin is formed from a collection of amino acids, which form chains.
These chains are held together by chemical bonds and there are 2 types:
Temporary, e.g. hydrogen bonds, which can be broken through regular processes
(washing, blow drying).
Permanent, e.g. disulfide bonds, which are insoluble in water.
Cystine is an amino acid that forms disulfide bonds and cystine can account for
up to 24% of keratin in hair.
When we color hair, it is the protein in hair that the color pigments attach to and
so it is essential to have the correct protein levels.
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The Composition of Hair
The rest of our hair is made up of water, fatty acids and other trace elements.
Moisture levels can fluctuate according to external influences, such as drying, the
sun and humidity levels in the hair.
When hair becomes damaged and loses protein, moisture levels increase, as
more moisture is absorbed to take the place of the protein
This is why protein and moisture balance is critical.
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The Growth Cycle of Hair
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The Growth Cycle of Hair
The characteristics of our hair is determined in the follicle.
Once the hair leaves the follicle, these characteristics do not change naturally.
We have around 100,000 to 150,000 follicles on our scalp.
The cells that create our hair are formed in the dermal papilla
They reproduce at the fastest rate of all cells in the human body.
Each follicle produces approximately 10 - 26 hairs in a person’s lifetime.
On average we shed around 100 hairs per day as part of the natural growth cycle.
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Ethnic Differences
The shape of the hair (straight, wavy, curly) is
influenced by the shape of the hair follicle and its
position in the scalp.
Different ethnic groups have some shared common
characteristics.
There are 3 basic groups:
Caucasian
Asian
Afro-Caribbean.
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Caucasian Hair
Hair shaft: Oval
Diameter of hair: Mid thickness
Shape of hair: Straight, wavy or curly
color of hair: Blonde, brown or red
Growth rate of hair: Approximately 1.2cm per month
Number of hair follicles: Highest number
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Asian Hair
Hair shaft: Round
Diameter of hair: Thickest
Shape of hair: Straight
color of hair: Black
Number of hair follicles: Lowest number
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Afro-Caribbean Hair
Hair shaft: Flat
Diameter of hair: Finest
Shape of hair: Curly, tightly coiled
color of hair: Black
Number of hair follicles: Mid number
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Hair Types Comparison
Hair
Shaft
Thickness Shape color Rate of
Growth
Density
of Hair
Follicles
Caucasian Oval Mid-
thickness
Straight,
wavy,
curly
Blonde,
brown,
red
1.2cm/
month
Most
dense
Asian Round Thickest Straight Black 1.3cm/
month
Least
dense
Afro-
Caribbean
Flat Finest Curly,
tightly
coiled
Black 0.9cm/
month
Mid-
density
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The Scalp
Our skin comprises 3 main layers:
The Subcutaneous Layer:
This contains the blood vessels and nerves that
rise up through the other 2 layers.
The Dermis:
This mid layer is composed of collective tissue of
collagen and elastin, as well as blood vessels and
nerve endings.
This network provides the epidermis above with
the nutrients it needs.
Hair follicles are found in the dermis.
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The Scalp
The Epidermis:
This top or outer layer provides a barrier against
damaging external factors, e.g. UV radiation, micro-
organisms and also against water loss.
There are several layers within the epidermis and
cells are produced in the lowest one (Basal Layer)
and work their way upwards becoming flatter in
shape and hard through keratinisation until they
reach the final layer (Horny Layer) where they are
finally shed.
In humans this shedding is a constant process.
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The Scalp
Healthy hair requires a healthy scalp.
Hair needs the correct amounts of
nutrients which are supplied through the
network of vessels and nerves in the
scalp.
A dry, flaky scalp may not be able to carry
out its protective function against external
factors and may itself be sensitive to
external factors.
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Section B
Hair: Post-Cancer Analysis and Care
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The Hair and Cancer -
Chemotherapy
The cells that produce our hair have the fastest rate of growth of all cells in the
human body. Cancer cells also reproduce rapidly and chemotherapy is designed
to target these fast growing cells, which is why our hair can be affected.
The hair may start to grow back before the end of the treatment.
There may be a number of differences between the new hair and the client’s hair
before chemotherapy e.g.:
the hair might grow back very fine at first
it may be a different texture or color
it may be curly
it may also be grey.
In most cases, but not all, the hair will revert back to its previous condition.
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The Hair and Cancer -
Radiotherapy
The hair grows back slower than after chemotherapy.
The hair may also grow back fine.
In some cases, the hair does not grow back or grows back in patches.
After both types of treatment, the hair that grows back is often weak in protein.
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The Scalp and Cancer
After chemotherapy, the scalp can be very dry and scaly.
There are specialist treatments available, which may be suitable –
the client should discuss this with their consultant/nurse.
These treatments deliver nutrients to the scalp and protect it from harmful
environmental influences.
They can also help to repair and moisturise the scalp, reducing irritation and
inflammation.
Some ingredients used in such products include:
Biotin, Folic Acid, Niacin, Thiamine HCL, Pantothenic Acid (Panthonol):
B vitamins, required for healthy skin, hair and nails.
Chamomile, Aloe Vera, Geranium, Rosemary extracts:
anti-inflammatory, anti-septic and soothing agents.
Anti-oxidants, such as fennel, green tea and tocopherol (vitamin E) help to prevent
damage caused by unstable molecules.
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The Hair and Cancer
Until the hair is long enough, an aqueous cream may be suitable for use on the
scalp – the client should discuss this with their consultant/nurse.
Once the hair is long enough, a gentle shampoo and conditioner can be used.
Avoid products containing salt and harsh sulphates and look for ones including
plant oils (e.g. Jojoba and Sweet Almond oil), which work in a similar way to the
naturally occurring oils from our scalp and condition the hair.
UV filters, e.g. sunflower extract, help to protect the hair from harmful
environmental influences.
Anti-oxidants, such as fennel, green tea and tocopherol (vitamin E) help to prevent
damage caused by unstable molecules.
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Hair Analysis
You have a new client, who has been through chemotherapy and now wants to
take off the wig. You need to know how to treat them.
As we have already discussed, hair is a delicate balance of protein, moisture and
other elements.
If hair has this correct balance, it will stretch by 30% when wet and return to its
original length without any damage to the hair.
The products chosen for each client will depend on the results of their elasticity
test.
No stretch – if the hair does not stretch, it is low in moisture.
Stretch and no return – if the hair stretches, but does not return to its original
length, then it is low in protein.
Stretch and break – if hair stretches and snaps, then it is low in both moisture
and protein.
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Hair Analysis
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Hair Analysis and Treatment
Demonstration
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Home Hair Care
Treatments can be highly effective
from the first application in the salon.
However, often repeated applications
are required to get the hair back to
optimum condition.
It is important that the client uses the
correct products at home.
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Section C
Hair: coloring, Perming and
Straightening
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coloring The Hair
When: Once the client has at least 3-6
inches of regrowth, it may be possible to
consider coloring the hair.
Condition of hair and scalp: coloring should
only take place if the hair and scalp are
healthy.
Do not color the hair if the hair or scalp are
brittle, excessively dry or flaky, irritated or
breaking.
It is difficult to obtain a satisfactory result on
hair which is not in good condition.
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Types of color
Technique Pigment Type Effect on Hair Example Products
Temporary Direct pigment Coats the hair and
lasts 1 wash
color mousse
Semi-permanent Direct pigment Coats the hair and
lasts 6 – 8 washes
Semi-permanent
color
Demi-permanent Oxidative pigment Penetrates the
cuticle and lasts
more than 8
washes
Permanent color
with a low level of
peroxide
Permanent Oxidative pigment Changes the
existing color in the
hair
Permanent color
with medium to
high level of
peroxide
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Advice For coloring
Avoid colors containing oxidative pigments for the first few applications – start
with temporary and semi-permanent colors until the hair becomes stronger.
When using permanent colors, avoid the darker shades, as these have higher
percentages of PPDs / PTDs.
Start with off-the-scalp coloring for the first few applications.
Avoid aggressive chemicals in the hair colors, e.g. ammonia or resorcinol.
Advise the client on a suitable home hair care regime.
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coloring The Hair
Always carry out a skin sensitivity test. Ensure you follow the manufacturer’s
instructions and allow 48 hours for the test to be completed.
If the client experiences any sort of redness, itching, irritation or inflammation then
wash off the color immediately and do not proceed to color the hair.
If the sensitivity test is fine, then carry out a strand test. Our experience has shown
that sometimes the color result can end up a couple of shades lighter than
expected and a strand test should help to eliminate the need to correct the color at
a later stage.
Discuss any concerns or questions you have with the manufacturer of the hair
color.
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Perming and Straightening The Hair
Follow the advice for coloring regarding condition
of the hair and avoid harsh chemicals.
With straightening, the repeated combing of the
hair during the process can put it under a lot of
stress and particularly hair that is weak in protein
can be prone to breaking under these conditions.
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Section D
Questions and Answers
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Some questions to ask your client:
How long is it since your treatment for cancer has been completed?
Are you currently taking any medication?
Have you experienced any previous reaction to hair color / perms / straightening
products?
Is your scalp itchy or sensitive?
Have you ever experienced a reaction to permanent make-up or a skin tattoo?
Which products do you currently use on your hair?
How do you brush / comb / dry your hair?
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Some questions to ask your stylist:
What will my hair be like when it grows back?
How long after my treatment will my hair grow back?
How long will it be before my hair returns to how it was before the cancer?
When will I be able to color / perm / straighten my hair?
How often should I get my hair cut?
What products should I use?
What is the best way for me to brush / comb / dry my hair?
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Organic Salon Systems
The worldwide leader in more natural, organic, and gentler professional-
only salon products that eliminate or minimize the harmful and dangerous
chemicals while providing the hairstylist with superior performance
Online: http://www.OrganicSalonSystems.com
Facebook: http://www.Facebook.com/OrganicSalonSystems
YouTube: http://www.YourTube.com/OrganicColorSystems
Twitter: http://www.Twitter.com/OrganicColorSys
Color Site: http://www.OrganicColorSystems.com
Phone: (888) 312-4744
Fax: (727) 585-2300
Email: CustomerService@OrganicColorCystems.com
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Hair After Cancer

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