Light hearted intro to Mexican Spanish

1. Mexican Spanish
Assembled by Bill Petry
Mexican Spanish is clearly enunciated, spoken slower than Spanish
from the Caribbean, and less apt to drop final endings of words.
Mexicans, and Latin Americans, never use the Castilian ceco or
lisp-like "th" sound: they pronounce cena (supper) as say-nuh,
not thay-nuh. When a male uses the Castilian ceco, uninformed
Mexicans will assume the speaker is less than macho.
Mexicans make frequent use of suffixes for emphasis, or to
connote size like -ito (small) and -on (large). The diminutive
-ito is also used to connote affection when speaking to children
or a sweetheart, and is often attached to the individual's name.
Mexican Spanish incorporates many words from the Aztec language
of Nahuatl. These are most prevalent in place names and in items
of food. As a general rule, words ending in -can, -tlan (most
mean "place of"), -atl and -milco, as well as terms with an -x,
are of Nahuatl derivation. Words from Nahuatl are always spelled
according to the rules of Spanish pronunciation and accents.
Avocado (Ahuacatl), tomato (xitomatl), and chocolate (chocolatl)
are international Nahuatl words.
In Mexico, more than 50 Indian languages are spoken by over 4
million people, of whom about 20-25% don't speak Spanish.
The Indian ideal is to come to terms with life and the universe.
The mestizo ideal is to control life. The Indian tends to accept
things passively; the mestizo tends to strive to dominate things.
The Indian is community-oriented; the mestizo is aggressively
individualistic. The Indian willingly subjugates his ego; the
mestizo revels in his machismo, and the vibrant personality. This
machismo seems to be a result of Spanish rule.
Basics
Phrases for asking directions and terms of courtesy are essential
because they are appreciated. Knowing basic pronunciation is
helpful because Mexicans, despite their facility for creative
interpretation of a visitor's needs, have difficulty interpreting
foreign pronunciations of common words. Each letter has only one
sound. Most letters are pronounced the same as in English except
that consonants are generally "softer".
a father
b softer than in English, closer to v
c as English: an 's' like in sit when before e or i; elsewhere
a k sound
e neighbor, end
g before a or o like go except before e or i, when it is
pronounced as a throaty wh
gu like go but with the u silent; with an umlaut the u is
sounded
h is silent
i Tina
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2. ie both vowels pronounced separately
j always a throaty wh
k does not exist in real Spanish
ll similar to English y
n~ like the 'ny' in canyon
o for
p pull
q k
qu k with silent u
r very short rolled r
rr ia a longer rolled r
u food
ue short 'e' (the 'u' is silent)
u..e 'we' as in 'dwell' (looks like an umlaut)
w does not exist in real Spanish
x 'h' like Mexico (MEHEECO); 'sh' as in Uxmal (OOSHMAL); 'ks'
as in Necaxa (NECAKSA); or 's' as in Xochimilco
(SOCHIMEELCO)
y same as i: Tina
z same as English s; under no circumstances should s or z be
pronounced like English 'z' - this sound does not exist in
Spanish
All words are accented on the last syllable except for words
ending in vowels, n, or s, which are accented on the next-to-last
syllable. Exceptions are noted with written accents, which are
considered an integral part of a word's spelling. Nahuatl is
accented on the next to last syllable; Mayan on the last
syllable.
The Spanish alphabet also contains three letters not found in
English: ch, ll, and n~ which are alphabetized after c, l, and n
respectively. Ch is pronounced the same as in English; the ll is
pronounced as a strong y as in you; and the n~ is pronounced as
an ny as in man~ana.
Good manners and proper courtesy are an essential part of
everyday life. A mistake is always preferable to a stony silence
(except when not responding to a cat-call; remember, this guy is
dying for attention, and will probably be most crushed by your
silence). Basic terms of politeness (please, thank you) are
especially well received when attempted in Spanish (most Mexicans
know the English counterparts; the point is to make an effort to
be a gracious guest.) Common terms of courtesy include:
por favor please
gracias thank you
de nada you're welcome
salud when someone sneezes; respond with gracias
buenos dias good morning
con permiso excuse me (as when interrupting someone to ask
directions)
perdo'ne me excuse me (as after stepping on someone's toe)
?mande? what did you say (colloq, Mex City)
no entiendo I don't understand
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3. mucho gusto pleased to meet you
estoy bien I am fine
adios goodbye
bueno "Hello!", when you answer the phone
a sus ordenes (at your orders)
The most common public phone in Mexico is the orange pay phone.
Not so common is an orange pay phone that works. To make a local
call (llamada local), insert a 50- or 100-peso coin. Ask bus
drivers for 1,000-peso coins to make long-distance calls (llamada
de large distancia). Calling within Mexico is pretty cheap.
Mexicans do not use the telephone as frequently as we do in the
US. They prefer personal contact for both business and pleasure.
As a result, much of our routine day-to-day telephone business
would there become visits to company offices. We will interrupt a
conversation to answer the phone. Mexicans give less credence to
decisions made on information sought over the phone.
Mexicans use the mail less than we in the US do. Bills must often
be paid in person, partly because checking accounts are less
common. Direct mail advertising is uncommon.
Aside from school and university libraries reserved for their own
faculties and students, Mexico has almost no lending libraries.
Perhaps the single most popular US presence in Mexico City is the
USIA's Benjamin Franklin library on Londres St. Here Mexicans and
foreigners alike can obtain library cards and check out books in
both Spanish and English. New books in English are expensive.
Many English words have Spanish counterparts; only the endings
are different. But not always. If you are embarrassed over your
poor attempt to communicate, you are sofoco (enbarrassed), not
embarazada (pregnant).
Some words have different meanings in Mexico. A tortilla in Spain
is an omlette.
Nuances of Mexican Spanish
The first rule is to try to speak Spanish whenever possible. Any
attempts at Spanish say, in so many words, that you wish
gracefully to be part of the culture; you recognize that you are
a guest. Mexicans appreciate the effort and readily forgive
errors in pronounciation or grammar. Remember, communication is
more than just words, it is an attitude which forms the basis of
a relationship. Some claim, too, that by speaking Spanish you
show you know your way around - at least a little bit - and it
might get you a slightly lower price in a market.
Mexican money (dinero) as of 1997 comes in 2, 5, 10, 20, 50, 100,
and 200 peso (N$) denominations in paper (billetes) and coins
(monedas) are 5, 10, 20, 50 centavos and 1, 2, 5, and 10 pesos.
The "no change" dilemma will often confront you: Many shops and
restaurants don't have change (cambio) for your purchase even if
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4. the note you offer is valued as low as N$20. In these situations,
you'll just have to smile and 'chill out' while they send someone
next door to see if they can make change. Enough of these
encounters may compel you to request billetes chicos (smaller
bills) when you exchange money.
A few financial mechanics will give you insight into just who
makes what in Mexico. The averave wage in 1997 is approx N$25
($3US) per day. Rural teachers earn approx $11US a day, tourist
police $9US, bus drivers and maids approx $4US. Taxi drivers make
about 30% of their take with the rest going to the taxi owner.
Tobacco workers (usually women) who weave ropes of 200 dried
tobacco leaves each earn N$3 (approx $0.40US) a rope.
Prices for services that are fixed in the US are negotiable in
Mexico, from taxis to auto repairs. Bartering is taken for
granted; indeed, the visitor who accepts the initial price may
receive the gratitude of vendors, but not their respect.
To avoid awkward misunderstandings, always agree on a price
before a service is performed. This agreement will always be
honored.
You can improve the impression you make by shaking hands
frequently. Mexicans shake hands not only when first introduced,
but whenever they meet again, and when they take leave of one
another.
Only make hotel reservations during the high season if you are
going to a beach area. Off-season, just arrive and find out
what's available by calling when you arrive. If you truly want a
reservation, write or fax well in advance, saying in your letter
that you'll forward a deposit upon receipt of a confirmation. Or,
instead, call the hotel, make the reservation, get the name of
the person who takes the reservation, and then send your deposit
by registered mail, return receipt requested - all of which can
take a good deal of time. If the clerk asks you where you're
calling from, pick someplace nearby in Mexico; if you say the US
or some distant Mexican City, the quoted rate could be two to
three times the current local price (this is especially true in
Acapulco); if they think you're nearby, they know you can easily
find out the true rate. If in doubt about the price on arrival,
ask the price as though you're just another tourist looking for a
room. Don't tell them you've made a reservation and see what
price they quote you. If it's a lot lower than the price quoted
in the reservation, accept the lower price and register. If
you've paid a deposit, make sure it's applied to your bill. You
have to debate the point with them a bit, but it's worth it.
It is appropriate to tip approx. 10% at sit-down restaurants, but
even then only when the server offers service to warrant (no need
to tip at fonda/loncherias). Some restaurants include the service
charge on the bill; be sure to check. Tip taxi drivers if they
render extra service like offer suggestions and don't rip you off
(be sure to fix the price first). Tip N$2 per bag if you're too
lazy to carry them yourself and someone helps you out. In hotels
tip the maid either in person or leave it in the room, especially
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5. if you received extra service (additional drinking water agua
purificada, for example).
Gas station attendants, the ones who pump your gas, work for
tips. Even if they don't wash your windshield or check your oil
(you may have to ask for these services), do as many Mexicans do
and ask for some amount less than an even amount of gas and give
the attendant the change. The young girls and boys who bag your
groceries at the stores are there working for tips. Keep in mind
that many people in Mexico depend almost exclusively on tips for
their livelihood.
It is considered demeaning to offer money for a voluntary service
rendered as a kindness, not as part of a job (A passer-by offers
directions, or helps to change a tire.) Mexicans are hospitable
people, and resent the image that they are always after money
from rich Norteamericanos. In such cases, a 4-pack of chicklets,
few sticks of gum or a beer would be a more appropriate thank
you.
Mexicans shop frequently and purchase small amounts. With the
exception of modern supermarkets few goods are pre-packaged.
Why?: fewer people have cars to transport large amounts, the poor
have very little money to spend at one time, and the rich send
their maids to the market on a daily basis. Packaging and
containers are expensive and sometimes cost extra. Beer (cervesa)
and soda (refrescos) are usually sold in returnable bottles;
often the deposit costs as much as the contents. So when you
purchase a cold soda from a nearby tienda (local market), be sure
to drink it there or pay the N$1 deposit.
Some Mexican drinking establishments admit men only. Bars in
hotels and restaurants, cocktail lounges and many others admit
women, but true cantinas do not. Pulquerias not only don't admit
women, they don't admit men who are strangers (in general).
By the way, Mexicans usually drink their beer al tiempo (at room
temperature). Should you prefer cold ask for 'frio.'
If you don't remember the correct verb endings or the
subjunctive, you can manage by using the present tense, the "to
go" form for the future, and phrases rather than sentences.
Mexican Spanish makes extensive use of the reflexive form, as in
the car "broke itself," the glass "fell itself," or the key "lost
itself" [this way no one has to take responsibility; things just
happen]. Two phrases frequently encountered are No se puede (It
can't be done) and No hay (There aren't any).
When shopping, Mexicans avoid making inquiries personal. Instead
of asking ?Tiene Vd. pan? (Do you have bread?), they will inquire
?Hay pan? (Is there bread?) or "?No hay limo'n?" (Got any lime?).
The implication is that no one present is particularly
responsible if there's none. Since, as in English, certain words
have double meanings, one obscene, the distinction between "Do
you have?" and "Are there any?" can make the difference between
racous laughter at you expense and a ready answer.
The two most popular breakfasts in Mexico are huevos a' la
mexicana and huevos rancheros. When ordering the former avoid
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6. asking for huevos mexicana as huevos is slang for testicles.
Huevos (eggs) and chile, for example, refer to parts of the male
anatomy; only when used in the reflexive and they are taken to be
innocent inquiries about food.
Spanish, like other romance languages, has two forms of the word
"you": usted (formal) and tu (familiar). As a general rule, tu is
appropriate in any situation in which you would address the other
person by his or her first name. Mexicans tend to be far less
formal in this regard than Spaniards.
Terms used in conversations about Mexican society also take on
special meanings. "Popular" when used to describe taste or a
segment of society (ie. popular entertainment) refers generically
to the working class and below, with no connation of a majority,
as opposed to "important" people of culture who control and own
things. Indio (Indian), when used in reference to individuals,
encompasses not only race but lifestyle. Unfortunately, it
sometimes carries negative connotations, and is best avoided if
used to refer to those to whom you are speaking. Words we in the
US associate with Marxism - bourgeoisie, proletariat - are used
routinely without any ideological implications.
Mexicans do not identify with government in their speech by using
the pronoun "we" to describe national policy or action. When
someone from the US uses "we" to describe US policy it can imply
support for it.
Hugging, abrazos, is normal behavior between good friends. In the
same way, girls will walk with their arms around one another's
waists; nothing is implied except friendship.
Backpacks are the most manageable way to lug belongings around,
but they instantly brand you as a foreigner (and probably
American). The outside pockets are easy to pick, so don't store
any valuables in them. If you want to blend in with the local
tourist population, bring a duffel or large shoulder bag.
Remember, if you can't carry your luggage, by yourself, for at
least a mile in dripping hot weather, you've got too much.
As a general rule one's person is safer that one's vunerable
property. The greatest danger facing visitors is the distraction:
the magic of a foreign country leads them to forget the normal
rules of common sense. Pickpockets are pervasive, especially in
crowds, and especially in Mexico City. One should be especially
cautious about carrying handbags and wallets, and avoid showing
large amounts of cash. It is important to remember that Mexico is
a poor country and wages are about $3 per day; for many, the
amount of loose cash carried by a tourist exceeds a week's income
or more.
Honor means never having to admit powerlessness, for example,
admitting that a request is beyond one's ability to fulfill. As a
result, Mexicans will frequently agree to do something they know
they cannot do, and later attribute their lack of success to
forces beyond their control. The so-called man~ana attitude (I'll
do it tomorrow) also saves face. Often when you are told
something will not be possible until tomorrow - or until next
week - you are really hearing a polite "No." By suggesting
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7. something can be done in the future, but not at present, the
Mexican can avoid admitting a request is impossible to grant. It
takes some experience to know when man~ana means "tomorrow," and
when man~ana means "no."
Mexicans believe it is less rude to accept an unwanted
appointment or invitation, then fail to appear, than to refuse
the invitation. Don't be too offended by being stood up in this
way.
It must be realized that most Mexicans value simpati'a
(congeniality) over promptness. If something is really worth
doing, it gets done. If not, it can wait. Life should not be a
succession of pressures and deadlines. In the 'business-like'
cultures, life (according to many Mexicans) has been
desympathized.
Mexico is both cheaper and more expensive that the US, for goods
and services do not have the same relative value. As a general
rule, labor is cheap and things are expensive. This makes
tourism, whose restaurants and hotels are labor intensive, a
relative bargain. The same applies to handicrafts. The products
of everyday life tend to be more expensive than in the US,
especially if they are imported.
Mexicans are a generous people. When you ask a Mexican where he
is from, he will often give you the name of the town followed by
"donde tiene su casa." This means "where your home is," implying
that "My house is your house". Don't take him up on it; he is
only being polite. Friendship entails a willingness to share what
one has. Mexicans abhor the "keeping count" practices of the US,
such as carefully taking turns in paying for a meal or even
worse, dividing the check according to who ate what. What we see
as fairness strikes Mexicans as stinginess.
In conversation with a Mexican, don't admire any of his or her
possessions too much, lest the item be offered as a gift you
cannot refuse.
A Little Slang
ciudades perdidas - lost cities, slums
muchachas de casa - house maids
chava - girlfriend, (chavo= boyfriend)
?Que' onda, mano? - what's shakin', brother?
!Que' padre! - How fantastic!
naco - neuvo riche
?Tienes coche o Volkswager? - a putdown
Tragafuegos - firebreather, uses kerosene & wire torch
limpiaparabrisas -street urchins who'll wash your car windows at
a stop light
El pinche gobierno - the fucking government
pendejo - very large 'mas' problem
tonto - small 'menos' problem
pollo -mexican name for wetback; like a chicken thrown to the
coyotes
el otro lado - the other side (the USA)
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8. ... de mierda - ... of shit
jefe - boss
cuates - pals
unio'n libre - free union (living together)
fayuquero - smuggler
pepenador - scavenger (nahuatl= pepena)
Somos jodidos aqui' - We're fucked here
huevos - eggs (testicles)
leche - milk (sperm)
chili - chili pepper (penis)
chi-chi - chic (tits); also melones
?Quie'n sabe? - Who knows?
chingar (chinga) -to screw someone literally or figuratively
(chingo'n= one who ...); (chingadera= a dirty trick);
(chingaquedito= an irritating person)
!Que' chingo'n! - what a guy! (see above)
Vete a la chingada - Go to Hell!
hijos de la chingada -children of the raped (what Mexicans call
themselves)
que chingo que me chingues - that I hurt you before you hurt me
el pequeno poder - the little power (bribe)
?Ni modo? - What else can one do?
Marico'n -gay person; also joto (derived from a Mayan word) or
puto (activo & pasivo; inserters & receivers)
la gripe - any bad cold
apariencia agradable -agreeable appearance (= No Indians need
apply)
puta - whore (-o masc)
mango - the charms of a pretty girl
Nicknames
Paco, Pancho - Francisco
Mamo - Guillermo (William)
Challo - Rosario
Chava - Salvador
Cars and Driving
Mexico, recognizing the difficulty of controlling contraband at
the busy border crossings, has established a semi-free trade zone
within twenty miles of the border. Within the zone, designated
the frontera, cars have distinct license plates and inspection is
minimal. Beyond the border town, usually at a particularly remote
spot, there is an additional inspection. As long as you possess
proper papers you will be usually waved through. If you neglected
to stop upon entering Mexico, you are in trouble.
Upon entering the country, your tourist card is stamped con coche
(with car). Should a member of your party intend to fly home, it
is essential that the person who will dirve the car back to the
US receive the special stamp.
Driving in Mexico is a marvelous way to escape from the tourists
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9. centers and crowded cities and to see the countryside. However,
this presents a challenge all its own. Mexican drivers all but
ignore the rules and every driver seems determined to push his
vehicle beyond the limits of common sense. The road is one place
in Mexican culture where speed counts, especially if it will get
you to your destination before everyone else on the road. The
motor vehicle represents a kind of equality: it matters not who
you are, but how daring you can be in navigating the blind
mountain curve. Mexican drivers are good; they have to be. They
just lack good judgement. White crosses along the side of the
road mark places where a driver's courage exceeded his
discretion. The primary rule ofr driving in Mexico is simple: DO
NOT DRIVE AT NIGHT!
Lanes on Mexican highways are only suggestions; the number of
vehicles that can run abreast is dictated by the width of the
road, not the lane markings.
Many commercial vehicles have rear lights to signal when it is
safe to pass, a green or yellow left arrow, sometimes with the
word siga (proceed). Remember the driver is probably using his
standard of safety, not necessarily yours.
Mexican road signs follow international convention; most of the
time the picture conveys the message even it you don't know the
Spanish words. (The word for "Stop" is Alto.) Warning signs are
used sparingly. Since many drivers ignore signs out of principle,
many towns have installed speed bumps (topes). Take these
seriously, coming to all but a full stop, if you value your car.
Construction crews place large rocks, often painted white, on the
road to warn of danger ahead. Whenever you come across stones
left in the right-of-way, assume it is warning you of something.
Avoid driving in cities as much as possible. As a general rule,
the right-of-way is something one earns, not something to which
one has a right. At an intersection, don't assume the cross
street has a stop sign if you don't; even if it does, it might be
ignored. One-way streets are to be taken seriously. Often the
only indication is a small arrow attached to a building on the
corner, difficult to spot. If the street looks too narrow for
two-way traffic it probably is.
You occasionally encounter one-lane bridges on two-lane highways.
The driver who flashes his or her lights first is supposed to be
the one permitted to cross the bridge first. This is standard
procedure for both day and night.
Mexico City traffic is as challenging as any in the world. About
the best you can do is watch carefully what is going on in front
of you, and trust that the driver behind you is doing the same.
Here again, lane markings appear to be treated as suggestions
only.
Driving seems to embody the ultimate challenge to the Mexican
male's sense of machismo; to yield unnecessarily to traffic or
pedestrians is a sign of personal weakness. Yielding to an
attractive young woman crossing the street is, of course,
something else, and very acceptable. Most drivers are uniformly
courteous to women accompanied by young children.
On the subject of women, fair women receive plenty of attention
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10. from men in the street, but the usual is a catcall and the worst
is an ass-pinch. Granted not welcome, but not dangerous either.
Most women travelers feel uncomfortable about hitchhiking and for
good reason; if something happens, no one will know, and your
story may not be believed by the authorities. Remember, actions
foreign women consider normal and friendly (eye contact, a smile)
can be considered explicit advances by Mexican men.
Traffic signals are more of a challenge than a regulation; at
most intersections traffic police are needed to enforce red
lights. When the officer is facing to or away from you it meand
stop. When showing his side it means go. In Mexico looking both
ways before crossing the street acquires a special urgency.
In Mexico City, in an attempt to cut down on air pollution, every
car (including out-of-state or out-of-country vehicles) has one
day of the week when it cannot be driven. The last digit of the
license number determines which day: 5-6 Monday, 7-8 Tuesday, 3-4
Wednesday, 1-2 Thursday, and 9-0 Friday. The police take this
law, called Hoy no circula (Today no driving), quite seriously
and will impound the offending vehicle until 10PM that night as
well as impose a fine of about $120.
When parking, you will often be approached by either an old man
or a young boy offering to watch your car. Accept the offer;
consider him a human parking meter who provides special services.
At times, he will specify a fee (perhaps $.50 to $1); at other
times he will rely on your generosity. Be sure to remember what
he looks like or you may feel compelled to tip the whole group
surrounding the car on your return.
Beware of no-parking zones, marked either with an "E" with a line
drawn through it or red paint on the curb. Traffic police do not
just leave tickets; they will tow the car, remove the license
plates, or apply the infamous boot to the wheel.
Often, either a parking attendant or passer-by will help you park
your car. A steady slapping on your rear fender is a signal for
you to keep coming, with a hard final slap to tell you to stop.
The hand signal to come looks like the US signal to go away.
In renting a car, before taking possession of your rented vehicle
in Mexico, be sure to check the vehicle carefully for any dents,
scratches, or chips in the glass; otherwise, you will be charged
for these when you return.
The Police
Mexican police are professional and generally helpful. Do not
hesitate to approach a cop on the beat for directions or
assistance. In tourist areas bilingual police officers wear small
flags on theis shoulder denoting the languages they speak.
Like most civil servants, Mexican police are poorly paid. They
expect to supplement their meager income with the
"considerations" they recieve from minor lawbreakers. Often they
themselves have offered a "consideration" to get their jobs, and
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11. are also expected to turn something over to their superiors.
Commercial vehicles are routinely stopped for alleged
infractions; it is a cost of doing business.
Short-term visitors are most likely to encounter the police for
traffic violations. Generally these can be resolved on the spot
by giving the officer the fine he demands (should you feel that
you are innocent ask for a ticket and pay the fine at the
station, otherwise you should negotiate for a better price).
Speeding tickets are about $4. Since violators will pay a fine in
any case solving the issue on the spot saves everyone involved a
lot of time and leaves out the middleman. These informal
considerations on the spot will resolve only minor violations,
not major crimes.
Another good way to get arrested is to but marijuana from
strangers (or smoke it in public). Until fairly recently, most
Mexicans associated it almost exclusively with criminals. If you
are offered illegal drugs, there is a good chance that your
friendly local vendor is working for the police. Near the
Guatemalan border, and in remote areas elsewhere in Mexico,
expect to have police descend on your car for a search (as little
as 1/3-oz of pot can land you in jail).
Abortion and pornography are illegal but widespread. However,
there are no restrictions on sexual activities between consenting
adults (ie the girl is not a minor), including homosexuality and
prostitution as long as discretion is observed.
Climate
Mexico City, Guadalajara and many other cities of the central
plateau sport temperate year-round climates. High altitude
(1,545m, 5,069ft for Guadalajara, and 2,240m, 7,349ft for Mexico
City) keeps these cities from getting really hot, even in the
summer. In an average year the high temp in Mexico City will be
around 31C (88F); for Guadalajara 35C (88F). In Mexico City,
expect temperatures in the upper 20's C (70's F) in April and
May, in the low 20's C (70's F) in the summer and fall, and in
the upper 10's C (60's F) to low 20's C (70's F) in the winter.
Summer is the rainy season - in July and August - Mexico City has
rain nearly every day - but usually the rain lasts only a couple
of hours in the afternoon (which necessitates a folding umbrella
and perhaps a lightweight raincoat). It is cool at night: in
winter the temperature may fall as low as 0C (32F) at night.
In southern Mexico and the Yucatan, the climate varies depending
on where you are - some areas dry, others have nearly 5m (16ft)
of rainfall a year. High in the mountains it is not nearly as hot
as at sea level. In Oaxaca, which is over 1,500m (5,000ft) high,
the night-time temperatures in winter can fall below 0C (32F) but
in summer, in mid-day, it occasionally rises to nearly to 38C
(100F). On the Yucatan peninsula, Merida's temperature can rise
as high as 42.2C (108F); Cozumel's maximum is scarcely above 90F,
as it is right on the coast. Anywhere in the peninsula, expect
daily temperatures in the upper 20's C (80's F) year-round;
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12. night-time seldom gets below 16C (60F).
Northern Mexico is largely desert. The days are very hot in
summer - well over 38C (100F) - except in the mountains. It is
cold in winter, when it may freeze at night. As you go east
toward Monterrey, the climate is more moderate and less dry, but
still very hot in summer.
Acapulco's daily highs of 27C (80F) to 32C (90F) year-round
seldom fall much below 21C (70F) at night. As with most of
Mexico, the rainy season is in summer and early fall; there is
very little rain in the winter. Pacific breezes keep things
comfortable.
Further north along the Pacific coast, the temperature is
somewhat cooler at night, but otherwise similar. In an average
year, the max temp in Mazatlan or Puerto Vallarta will be in the
mid-30's C (mid-90's F). North of Mazatlan, the coast becomes a
desert, and the summers are hotter. In Guaymas, the average max
runs 112F. Typical summer temps are in the upper 20's & 30's C
(80's & 90's F). The winter is temperate, usually in the 20's C
(70's F) in the daytime.
Baja has very low rainfall throughout, which occurs in late fall
and early winter. Temperatures are more comfortable where the
land is cooled by sea breezes, as on the southern tip of the
peninsula and along the Pacific coast. Ensenada's summer high
will not rise above 35C (95F); but San Felipe, on the Gulf of
California coast, may go up to 48C (118F). The desert is cold at
night.
What to Wear
The word gringo is used frequently as a slang expression for
people from the US (or any foreigner). It is a 16th century
corruption of griego, "Greek", which became a generic Spanish
term for any foreign trader. Most of the time it carries no
negative connation. Gringa, or gringita, on the other hand, does.
Since Mexican women - with the exception of prostitutes - are
seldom available outside marriage: a foreign woman, unchaperoned,
is understood to be open to having a good time (an unreasonable
expectation of Mexican men). A completely respectable US, EC, or
Asian woman will wear clothing on the street which, if worn by a
Mexican woman, would signify they are sexually promiscuous.
Mexican women in cities tend to dress up more than women in the
US and some other counrties, but you are not there to impress
people. In Mexico Guero (fem -o; or blanco) is used for blond
people
It is considered offensive and in the worst taste for men to go
shirtless or for women (or men as well) to wear short shorts, so
outside of resort areas try to adjust your dress and behavior
accordingly. Remote areas are often conservative, and
conservative people often feel most comfortable with people who
are not too conspicuous. Appearing bizarre to the local people
will gain you nothing, except perhaps the suspicions of the
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13. police.
Men can wear a guayabera shirt, which can be worn over slacks to
look a little dressed-up while feeling cool and comfortable at
the same time. Women can wear long, loose embroidered dresses
which are equally cool and comfortable. Permanent-press or knit
dresses and skirts are comfortable in hot weather and are easy to
pack. Pants worn by women are perfectly acceptable. Baggy khakis
are cooler than jeans. Long-sleeved shirts help prevent mosquito
bites and sunburn, though you'll also need insect repellent and
sunscreen. A hat will also help keep off the sun.
Mexican women (Indigineous mostly) will be seen wearing Huipil
(brightly embroidered white blouses), broad-cloth skirts, and
Rebosos - which resembles a serapi but with a slit from the
center to one edge leaving the front accessable, rather than a
slit through the center to put your head through with your hands
& front covered.
Even if you enjoy the attention and flattering comments, be
careful not to respond to any overtures unless you mean to follow
through. If you don't enjoy the attention, you can minimize the
effects; don't make eye contact, don't respond to their comments,
don't smile, don't say thanks, and don't glare or make nasty
remarks. Just walk on. Traveling in groups helps too.
Nudity, however, even partial nudity, is illegal and dealt with
seriously. If you are caught in the nude by someone who seems
upset about it, don't try to laugh it off - apologize and put
some clothes on. The alternative could be arrest (just like in
the US).
No matter where you plan to travel in Mexico, bring a pair of
comfortable walking shoes that are already broken in.
Health & Safety
Mexico has socialized medicine, and, happily, travelers can take
advantage of this. Nearly every city or town has a Centro de
Salud (government health center), where you can receive free,
24-hour medical care. The surroundings may look less than
sanitary, but the visit and any drugs you may need are free, and
the doctors are kind. English-speaking doctors are found only in
the larger cities. In smaller places, bring your dictionary.
Rest and moderation are the best cure for almost every case of
diarrhea.
The safest course in selecting a place to eat is to look
carefully before ordering. If no effort is being made to keep the
counter clean or the flies away from the food, chances are good
that the customer will ingest unwanted bacteria with the meal.
The fondas in the markets have the advantage that you can see the
kitchen and the food before committing yourself. In these stalls,
there is likely to be no menu; simply ask, "Que hay?" - "What is
there?"
What to do if you find most Mexican food far too hot? If it's
already in your mouth, reach for the bread, not the water. Beer
also helps. If you are ordering a meal, the word is picante
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14. (spicy) not caliente (hot only in temperature).
Mexicans are less safety conscious than we in the US.
Construction sites, whether buildings are adjacent to a busy
sidewalk or on rural highways, are often poorly marked. Holes
appear in the middle of streets and sidewalks with no warnings.
Uninsulated electric wires hang mysteriously from outlets in even
the most expensive hotel rooms.
This apparent indifference to safety is not from ignorance, but
from safety having a lower priority. Mexico is also a poorer
country; total safety is expensive. Where safety really counts,
however, Mexico is not lacking. Its airlines have an enviable
safety record.
Language and Gender
Gender-neutral terms are impossible in Spanish, since all nouns,
and the adjectives that modify them, are either masculine or
feminine. Even the Spanish "they" had a masculine or feminine
form (ellos, ellas, respectively). As a general rule, nouns that
end in o, e, ma, or a consonant are masculine, and nouns ending
in a, i'on, or dad are usually feminine. Some nouns take either a
masculine or feminine form, depending on the ending, eg viajero
is a male traveler; viajera female. Most adjectives become
feminine by adding an a. There are exceptions: Mexico is
masculine as is los Estados Unidos (the United States).
Mexicans will generally excuse modifiers of the incorrect gender
except when applied to individuals, including oneself. In using
Spanish when less than fluent you should be especially careful
with such phrases as mucho gusto ("very pleased" to meet you) or
encantado ("delighted" or "enchanted" to meet you, without the
pretentiousness of the English), since the adjectives gusto (fem=
gusta) or encantado (fem= encantada) refer to the speaker.
Titles are important in Mexico. In formal situations use a
person's professional title if possible, even if you are speaking
in English. Be sure the gender is correct, that is, a female
lawyer, Licenciado (or Abrogado), is Licendiada (or Abrogada).
Engineer: ingeniero, Professor: profesor, Doctor: me'dico. If the
person has no title, use the masculine Sen~or or the feminine
Sen~orita, whether you know the person's name or not. If you
don't know the surname, precede the term, whether professional
title or a version of Sen~or, by the definite article "the," such
as el sen~or or la sen~ora. Sen~orita (Miss) is used, not Sen~ora
(Mrs), unless you know she is married, or traditionally, if she
looks old enough to be a grandmother. A few Mexican feminists are
advocating the use of Sen~o in place of Sen~orita or Sen~ora in
order to avoid a woman's marital status becoming an integral part
of her formal title, but the usage remains rare, far less common
than Ms. in the US.
Children automatically assume the name of both their parents (the
father's surname first, and alphabetized under his name), a
custom only recently and still sporadically adopted in the US.
Hence the dual last names so common south of the border. When a
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15. girl is married she typically adds her husband's first surname
(his father's name) to her own after the pronoun de (of) and
drops her mother's surname; hence Rosa Gomez Rodriguez marrying
Juan Castro Lopez becomes Roas Gomez de Castro. Upper-class
families, reluctant to lose any part of their heritages, will
tend to add on names, not drop them, and the full name grows
longer. Some will emphasize the duality of their distinguished
heritage by adding y (and) to their name, such as the philosopher
Jose Ortega y Gasset.
Mexican Lifestyles
The Marginalized live on the edge of society and comprise 25-40%
of the population. They include peasants who own barely enough
land on which to support their families, and the hundreds of
thousands of migrants who flock to Mexico City, the border towns
- and the US (often to stay with relatives). Most have no regular
employment and so must rely on their wits to survive. Entire
households must work, with children as young as seven selling
newspapers or candy.
Homes, such as they are, are frequently constructed from trash
taken from construction sites. Water is obtained from public
fountains, and electricity, if they have any, may be illegally
tapped from utility lines. Streets are unpaved; schools and
clinics are miles away. Since public transportation is spotty to
possible job locations, many support themselves by selling petty
services to each other. Alcohol and violence are an integral part
of daily life. The pressure of trying to survive makes any kind
of real family life virtually impossible. Men desert their
families, parents desert their children.
The working class have regular employment. Regular employment
carries with it a security blanket unavailable to the
marginialized. Low wages also explain the desperation with which
workers everywhere seek to supplement their incomes with
gratutities for performing jobs. Organized labor is powerful and
has traditionally pushed for security over higher wages.
Typically workers receive free medical care, modest death
benefits, and severance pay. To discharge an employee legally is
an expensive proposition. Upward mobility is restricted by the
fact that to go beyond a certain point on the social scale
requires adopting a different lifestyle as well as earning
additional income.
As in the US, the 'Good Ole Boy' network is alive and well in
Mexico. Here it is referred to as the Client and Patron.
Middle Class values scorn working with the hands. Regardless of
your job, you can be considered middle class when you become a
manager of a firm where someone else does the work. Middle and
upper class Mexicans are not consumers of do-it-yourself manuals.
In addition, to be accepted as middle class requires refined
manners, good clothes, education, fine furnishings, and household
employees to do the menial tasks. The middle class values
education as it provides both a means to respectable career, and
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16. because it separates from the classes beneath. Private schools
are preferred.
The Middle Class live a tenuous existence, constantly under
pressure to maintain the symbols of a lifestyle that may be
beyond their means. Their status disassociates them from
traditional Mexico. They admire foreign products, and are proud
of whatever English they know. They vacation where Americans
vacation such as Cancun. Also middle class women are most likely
to pursue careers, seek a divorce, or have an abortion.
Titles and business cards are essential possessions for the
middle class.
The Wealthy have relatively new wealth, first or second
generation earned wealth, not the wealth of a traditional, landed
aristocracy. In reality, Mexico has two distinct upper classes,
those whose wealth derives from politics and those whose wealth
derives from business. The two rarely intermingle, as they have
their distinct set of family ties and social networks, although
they function and live similarly. They are not ashamed of their
wealth and tend to flaunt it. They do not share the insecurities
of the middle class, for their income is high enough to maintain
their separation from the popular classes. They patronize
exclusively private schools and clubs. As a general rule, upper
class values tend to be more traditional than middle class
values.
Mexicans value possessions, titles and servants or attendants as
signs of status. They place special value on "possessing" people.
In Mexico, status comes from the number of subordinates who are
available to come to one's assistance. Status demands avoiding
public facilities used by everyone else.
Making Conversation
There are few topics that are out of bounds in conversation
between Mexicans and North Americans (those from the US &
Canada). Since Mexicans divide their world into public and
private less often, it is always acceptable to inquire about a
person's spouse and children. Feel free to ask about political
issues as most Mexicans are delighted for the opportunity to
explain their nation to visitors. They are curious about the US
as long as you do not imply that the US way is the right or only
way.
The only sensitive subjects, at least until the visitor knows his
Mexican host fairly well, are those subjects associated with US
ugly stereotypes about Mexico. Examples include corruption and
problems related to drinking the water.Mexicans do not appreciate
the humor in jokes about the water or the toilets, and these are
viewed as typical "ugly American" insults.
Photographing Indians can be difficult. You can offer to pay
them, but chances are your shots will look terribly posed. If you
have a telephoto lens, you may be able to get good pictures
without offending people. You can also try using a wide-angle
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17. lens, shooting blindly from the hip. The only way to get the
shots you want is to spend time with the people; be friendly and
polite until you and your camera become part of the scenery. They
is may be possible to get excellent and "unposed" shots.
Mexican Spanish is rich in colorful slang and obscenities. A few
classics are usually said in a certain sing-song tone; one is the
automobile horns that mimic the tone of a particularly vile curse
(Chinga tu madre, literally "Fuck your mother!"), a delightful if
crude comeback to the fellow who just cut you off. Visitors are
well advised to avoid such language, especially if your knowledge
only comes from a phrase book, unless you are very well
acquainted with both the language and the person with whom you
are speaking. As in English, context is everything; better to be
safe than sorry.
A Little Mexican History
Human habitation in present-day Mexico dates back as far as
20-50,000BC. Sometime around 5,000BC, people in Mexico began to
grow maize and beans. About 3,000BC they began to grow cotton and
weave textiles and irrigate the land. In about 2,000BC they
learned to fashion pottery and by 1,500BC they began to fashion
gods in their minds.
The earliest known civilization was the Olmec who carved huge
stone heads and built large ceremonial centers on the Gulf Coast
in the present states of Veracruz and Tabasco before 1,100BC,
ending suddenly around 400BC. The jaguar played a leading role in
Olmec religion. Apparently it evolved into the rain god.
Ancient Mexican society reached its height between 200BC and
900AD in the so-called Classic Period. It was during this time
that the Mayan (and the offshoot Huastecs who were also mostly
peaceful; the Kulkulkan adherents demanded human sacrifice and
engaged in exotic practices that shocked the puritanical, self
mutilating Mayans), Zapotecs (in Oaxaca, who later were invaded
by the Mixtecs from the north) and the Toltecs (with their
military elite and their god Quetzalco'atl[the plumed serpent])
built grand cities and religious centers in Central Mexico, the
Yucatan, and Guatemala.
Toward the end of this period, new waves of migrations from the
north overwhelmed the declining Classic states. These
post-Classic societies were more warlike and more committed to
human sacrifice, and they absorbed much of the Classic culture
that had preceded them.
The Aztecs arrived around 1250AD. They were a messianic people
who believed themselves chosen by their god Huitzilopochtli (the
Hummingbird - god of war and god of the sun). Tlaloc was their
rain god.
With the advent of Flower Wars, eventually human sacrifice
replaced the battlefield.
Throughout pre-Columbian history, Mexico was predominantly a
society of peasants, who lived off the land. This peasant society
was based on communities, not individuals. Individuals identified
themselves not in terms of their own achievements or possessions,
Page 17 of 18

18. but as members of a particular family or village. Families lived
together in villages, not apart from each other on their own
plots of land. The land, therefore, was owned by the village, not
by individuals, even though individual households might be
assigned specific plots of land to use. Access to property, as
distinct from ownership, was determined by need and usage, and
was always contingent upon the greater needs of the community.
This is continued in Ejido lands that belong to the towns and
cannot be bought or sold.
Religion (reliance on supernatural forces to influence the
future) was an important part of indigenous scoiety. Different
communities worshiped different gods, gods who seemed
particularly inclined to favor that community.
From time to time over many centuries, large city-states arose.
Some were commercial centers, others religious centers. Most
developed a privileged class of priests, governors, anchants. The
city-states attempted to exert influence over the surrounding
countryside, and forcved villages to pay tribute and to provide
labor for public buildings and temples. Peasants were obligated
to worship the gods of the city-state in addition to their own.
Religion, then, became the dynamism that compelled obedience. So
the wealth and achievements of the cities were possible only
through the exploitation of the surrounding villages. This legacy
helps to explain the preferred isolation of many remote villages,
and thier reluctance to welcome the representatives of outside
authority, no matter how well intentioned they might be.
The majority of Mexicans continued to live simple lives in small
rural villages, and as one center of culture followed another in
preeminence, the inhabitants of the former culture remained,
becoming ultimately the Mexicans of today.
Spanish colonial government was never as effective as its
structure suggested. Distances were long, decisions traveled
slowly, and legislation was often unrealistic. Indeed, there
arose a standard response to decrees from Spain: "I obey, but I
do not comply." In other words, I recognize the authority of the
Spanish crown, but will follow my own best judgement in practice.
Sources
Hippocrene Companion Guide to Mexico, by Michael Burke, NY 1992.
Insight Guides, Mexico, Kal Muller, APA Pubs, Singapore, 1989
the Berkeley guides, On the Loose in Mexico 1993, Asc Students;
UCB
Mexico, lonely planet travel survival kit, 1992
BBC Mexico Vivo, set in Mexico City, is purported to be
undoubtedly the best self-teaching course available. (Book, tape
and videocassette)
Mexican Government Tourism Office, 10100 Santa Monica Blvd.,
Suite 224, Los Angeles, CA 90067 (213) 203-8191
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