1. Islay
Queen of The Hebrides
Benoit Bailey @RatherBeOnIslay
November 14th 2016
Montréal

4. Caol Ila
Ardbeg
Laphroaig
Gartbeck
Kildalton Cross
American Monument
Loch Gorm
Machir Bay
Jura
Finlaggan
Loch Indaal
Loch Gruinart
RSPB
Loch Gruinart
Claggan Bay
Saligo Bay
Ardnahoe

7. Peated Whisky
• Lightly peated: 1 – 5 ppm
• Medium peated: 5 – 15 ppm
• Heavily peated : 15 – 50 ppm
• Super heavily peated : > 50 ppm

8. Peat
• Partial decomposition of organic matter in wetlands
because of lack of O2 over thousand of years
– Sphagnum
– Low growing plants (grass, heather, etc…)
• From 10 to 50 cm below ground
– Upper part: more smoke than heat
– Lower part : more heat than smoke
• Composition
– 92% organic : contains variable amount of cellulose,
hemicellulose, and lignins
– 8% inorganic : almost ash

9. Why Peat is Use in Scotch Industry?
• Up until the early 1960s: Necessity
– Heat needed to dry the malt in the kiln in each
distillery
– Coal not readily available in remore area
• From the 1960s: To flavor the malt
– Industrial scale maltings
– Limited “artisanal” maltings
• Balvenie, BenRiach, Bowmore, Highland Park,
Kilchoman, Laphroaig, Springbank

11. Bruichladdich
• Three malt specifications (Bairds Malt from
Inverness)
– Non peated: Bruichladdich 3-4 ppm
– Heavily peated: Port Charlotte 40 ppm
– Super heavily peated: Octomore varies ≥ 131 ppm
• X.1: Bourbon casks
• X.2: Mixed casks (duty-free)
• X.3: Islay barley
• 7.4: Experimental casks

12. Bruichladdich
Malt specifications phenol
(ppm)
Finish spirit phenol
(ppm)
Bruichladdich 3-4 trace
Port Charlotte 40 20-25
Octomore 2002 Futures 80.5 29.6
Octomore 2003 Futures 167 46.4
Jefford A. Peat Smoke and Spirit. Headline. 2004

13. Octomore
.1
Bourbon
(ppm)
.2 Cask Finished
(ppm)
.3 Islay Barley
(ppm)
.4 Virgin
Oak
(ppm)
Aged
(ppm)
Futures 2002 80.5
Futures 2004 167
1 131
2 140 140 Chateau Petrus
3 152
4 167 167 Château d'Yquem
5 169
6 167 167 Cognac 258
7 208 208 Rhône Syrah 169 167
7 yo Feis Ile ? Oloroso*
10 yo 1st ed 80.5

14. Bruichladdich 22 yo
• Released in 2012
• Distilled before the
renaissance in 2001
• 46%
• American oak casks
• KWM $149.99 + GST
(2012 price)

19. Bruichladdich 22 yo
Official Tasting Notes
https://www.bruichladdich.com/the-whisky/bruichladdich/the-laddie-twenty-two-year-old

20. Bruichladdich 22 yo
Official Tasting Notes
https://www.bruichladdich.com/the-whisky/bruichladdich/the-laddie-twenty-two-year-old

21. Bruichladdich 22 yo
Official Tasting Notes
https://www.bruichladdich.com/the-whisky/bruichladdich/the-laddie-twenty-two-year-old

22. Anonymous. All About Distilling. http://www.manitobabrewhub.ca/learn/all-about-distilling

23. Barley
Dry and store barley
Soak (steep) barley in water
Air rest
Germinate to make malt green
Kiln to specification
Malted barley
Malting complete?
Yes
No
12%
1st steep 32-35%
50 hours
Final steep 46-47%
1-2 days
5-6 days
Moisture
15-20%
Duration
Malting
Process
5%
Months

24. Goals of Kilning
• Stop the biological activity of the green malt
• Produce a dry storable (stable) product ready
to be used
• Remove undesired flavour
• Add flavour
– Existing precursors
– Peat reek (smoke)

25. Goals of Kilning
• Add flavour from existing precursors
– Dimethyl sulphide (DMS) from thermal degradation
of S-methylmethionine
– Aldehydes from oxydation of unsaturated lipids
• Hexanal (green, grassy)
• Trans-2-nonenal (cardboard)
• Add flavour with peat reek
– Adds phenols

27. Lagavulin 8 yo
• Released in 2016
• For 200th anniversary
• 48% - colored
• Re-fill American oak
casks
• SAQ $100

28. Alfred Bernard
“From Ardbeg our route homeward lay through the
beautiful village of Lagganmhouillin or Lagavulin, “the
Mill in the Valley”, and no prettier or more romantic
spot could have been chosen for a distillery. The make
is pure Islay malt, and is principally sold in Glasgow,
England and the Colonies. The make is held in high
repute; we tasted some eight years old before starting,
which was exceptionnaly fine.”
The Whisky Distilleries of the United Kingdom 1887

32. Lagavulin 8 yo
Official Tasting Notes
https://www.malts.com/en-gb/our-whisky-collection/lagavulin/lagavulin-8-years-old/

33. Peat Brings Phenols…
• But not all phenols come from peat
– But all phenols come from burning plants
• Charring of casks (degraded wood carbohydrates –
cellulose, hemicellulose, lignins)
– Smoky not peaty
• Not all phenols are smoky
– Vanillin
– Eugenol (clove aroma/flavor)

34. What is in the Peat Reek that is
Important Flavourwise?
Phenols
Phenol Medicinal, antiseptic, iodine, carbolic
Guaiacol Flavour of smoke (no aroma) but also medicinal, woody
Syringol Aroma of smoke (no flavour)
o-cresol Musty, phenolic, medicinal
p-cresol Medicinal
m-cresol Medicinal, woody, leathery, phenolic
Xylenol isomers Medicinal, sweet
4-ethylguaiacol Spicy, smoky, bacon, phenolic, clove
https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/magic-mayhem-whisky-phenols-matthew-fergusson-stewart
Buxton, Hugues. The Science and Commerce of Whisky.
Lee, Paterson, Pigott. J Inst Brewing 2001: 107; 287
http://www.thegoodscentscompany.com/index.html

35. Absorption of Peat Reek
• Malt phenols specifications obtain by varying
– Intensity of smoke
• Amount of peat
• Time exposed to peat reek
– Springbank
» Hazelburn (non-peated): 30 hours of hot air
» Springbank : 6 hours of peat reek + 30 hours of hot air
» Longrow: up to 48 hours of peat reek
– Laphroaig: 12-15 hours of peat reek
– Bowmore: 15 hours of peat reek
– Octomore: 120 hours of peat reek in saladin box no hot air

36. Absorption of Peat Reek
• Malt phenols specifications obtain by varying
– Rate of malt drying
• Uptake smoke flavours in the range of 20-50% moisture
– Maximum 20-30%
• Two methods
– Peat then dry
– Peat and dry

38. Laphroaig Lore
• Released in 2016
• Permanent addition to the
range:
– “The richest of the rich”
• 48%
• 7-21 yo American and
European oak casks
• SAQ $200

41. http://www.laphroaig.com/lore/

42. Tasting Notes
http://www.laphroaig.com/lore/The-Taste.aspx

43. Peat Terroir
• Not all peat is created equal
– Varies in quality and composition depending
• Climate
• Vegetation
– Burnt sphagnum releases more simple phenols
– Burnt wood releases more syringol and guaiacol derivatives
• Bog type (rainfall or ground water)
• Cutting depth
– Laphroaig Cairdeas 2015
• 100% made from malt from own kiln not mixed with PE
• More cresol and 4-ethyl-guiacol in Laphroaig malt

44. Peat Terroir
Relative Abundances of Pyrolysis Products
Islay St. Fergus Orkney Tomintoul
Carbohydrate derivatives (%) 26.6 23.5 43.1 50.5
Guaiacyl (%) 20.6 23.6 14.3 11.1
Syringyl (%) 7.8 14.7 4.2 3.3
Phenols (%) 14.6 12.8 12.3 11.6
Nitrogen compounds (%) 3.2 2.5 2.8 1.2
Lignin/phenols 2.0 3.0 1.5 1.25
Syringyl/Guaiacyl 0.38 0.62 0.29 0.30
Harrison and Priest. J Agric Food Chem 2009; 57: 2385-2391

45. Peat Terroir
• Even peat from Islay varies
– Climatic bog (blanket bog) - 10% of Scotland
• More sphagnum moss, less woody vegetation
– Richer in phenols and aromatics
– Poorer in carbohydrates, lignin and nitrogen
 Castle Hill (Port Ellen)
– Local bog (valley/bassin bog) - 1% of Scotland
• More sedges and grass
– Richer in lignin-derivatives and carbohydrates
 Gartbreck moss (Bowmore)
 Glenmachrie moss (Laphroaig)

46. Speyside
Tomintoul
Aberdeenshire
St Fergus
Orkney
Hobbister Hill
Islay
Castle Hill
Islay
Glenmachrie
Islay
Gartbeck
Harrison B et al. J Inst Brew 2006; 112; 4; 333-339

47. Islay: Glenmachrie moss (bassin/valley bog)
Islay: Gartbeck moss (bassin/valley bog)
Islay: Castlehill (blanket bog)
Orkney: Hobbister Hill (blanket bog)
Aberdeenshire: St Fergus (bassin bog)
Speyside: Tomintoul (bassin bog)
Harrison B et al. J Inst Brew 2006; 112; 4 ; 333-339

48. CH
GM
GA

57. Kilchoman Sanaig
• Released in 2015 in
French market
• 2016: permanent
addition to the range
• 46%
• 75% Oloroso/25%
Bourbon casks
• SAQ $X

61. Sanaig, a small rocky inlet North West of the distillery is
the name given to this continuously available release.
Sanaig has a predominantly sherry cask influence owing
to the significant time spent in oloroso sherry
Hogsheads. These aged oloroso casks contribute a
drastically transformed depth of colour and character
compared to the mostly Bourbon cask matured Machir
Bay. “A beautiful marriage of bourbon and sherry
maturation balanced with classic Islay peat smoke and
light citrus sweetness”.
Anthony Wills, Founder
http://kilchomandistillery.com/our-single-malt-whisky

62. Tasting Notes
• Nose: Soft cooked fruits with caramel and
vanilla
• Palate: Toffee, peat smoke and citrus lingering
sweetness
• Finish: A lovely balance of peat smoke, fruit
and sweetness
http://impexbev.com/kilchoman-distillery/

72. Distillery (Malting) Malt phenol spec
(ppm by colorometry)
Middle cut ABV
(%)
New make phenol
(ppm by HPLC)
Bunnahabhain (90% Simpsons) 3 - 4 72 - 64 Trace
Bunnahabhain (10% PE) 35 72 – 61.5 Unknown
Bruichladdich (Bairds) 3 - 4 71 - 64 Trace
Port Charlotte (Bairds) 40 71 - 64 20 - 25
Octomore 2003 (Bairds) 129 71 - 64 46.4
Bowmore (75% Simpsons) 25 74 - 61.5 8 - 10
Bowmore ( 25% Bowmore) 25 74 - 61.5 8 – 10
Caol Ila (PE) 34 - 38 75 - 65 12 - 13
Lagavulin (PE) 34 - 38 72 - 59 16 - 18
Laphroaig ( 85% PE) 40 - 45 72 - 60.5 25
Laphroaig (15% Laphroaig) 55 72 - 60.5 Unknown
Ardbeg (PE) 55 73 - 62.5 24 - 26
Kilchoman (70% PE) 55 75 - 65.5 Unknown
Kilchoman (30% Kilchoman) 15 - 25 75 - 65.5 Unknown

74. Ardbeg Dark Cove
• Released in 2016
• Committee release 55% vs
Ardbeg Day release 46.5%
– The darkest Ardbeg ever…
• Dark sherry casks…
• SAQ $180

79. Tasting Notes
https://www.ardbeg.com/whisky/limited-editions/dark-cove-limited

80. Impact of Distillation on Peat Levels
Foreshots
Middle cut
Feints

81. Foreshots
Middle cut
Feints

82. Foreshots
Middle cut
Feints
More Peaty New Make?

83. Foreshots
Middle cut
Feints
More Peaty New Make?

84. Foreshots
Middle cut
Feints
More Peaty New Make?

85. Foreshots
Middle cut
Feints
More Peaty New Make?

86. Foreshots
Middle cut
Feints
More Peaty New Make

87. Foreshots
Middle cut
Feints
More Peaty New Make

88. Distillery (Malting) Malt phenol spec
(ppm by colorometry)
Middle cut ABV
(%)
New make phenol
(ppm by HPLC)
Bunnahabhain (90% Simpsons) 3 - 4 72 - 64 Trace
Bunnahabhain (10% PE) 35 72 – 61.5 Unknown
Bruichladdich (Bairds) 3 - 4 71 - 64 Trace
Port Charlotte (Bairds) 40 71 - 64 20 - 25
Octomore 2003 (Bairds) 129 71 - 64 46.4
Bowmore (75% Simpsons) 25 74 - 61.5 8 - 10
Bowmore ( 25% Bowmore) 25 74 - 61.5 8 – 10
Caol Ila (PE) 34 - 38 75 - 65 12 - 13
Lagavulin (PE) 34 - 38 72 - 59 16 - 18
Laphroaig ( 85% PE) 40 - 45 72 - 60.5 25
Laphroaig (15% Laphroaig) 55 72 - 60.5 Unknown
Ardbeg (PE) 55 73 - 62.5 24 - 26
Kilchoman (70% PE) 55 75 - 65.5 Unknown
Kilchoman (30% Kilchoman) 15 - 25 75 - 65.5 Unknown

89. Impact of Maturation on Peat Levels
• Phenols decrease during maturation
– Mecanism?
• But synergetic nature of oak derived
compounds (guaiacol, vanillin, etc…) can
enhance the peaty flavors

90. Impact of Maturation on Peat Levels
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
New Make 10 yo 15 yo 30 yo
PPM
Jefford A. Peat Smoke and Spirit. Headline. 2004

92. Bowmore Devil’s Casks III
• Third and final edition
• Released in 2015
• 56.7%
• Double the Devil: First Fill
Pedro Ximenez and oloroso
sherry casks
• NAS
• SAQ $110

96. Tasting Notes
• Nose: Breathe in a wave of rich, dark, exotic fruits,
including sultanas, mangos and raisins, fused with earthy
angelica root and treacle toffee.
• Palate: Give in to temptation and sip the smooth, rounded
taste of dates, chocolate fudge and salted treacle, warmed
by orange-laced Aruba coffee.
• Finish: Finally, savour the powerful, long--lasting finish of
smoked fruitcake, blood orange and sea salt. Devilishly
rewarding and a great addition to any whisky collection,
this limited-edition release not only tells a tale, it spells the
end.
Bowmore tasting notes

97. Your Favorite?

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