1. APPLICATION OF DOWNSIZED TECHNOLOGY IN KHADI SECTOR – A
CASE STUDY
R.B.CHAVAN
Professor
Department of Textile Technology
Indian Institute of Technology
Hauz-Khas, new Delhi 110016
ABSTRACT
Khadi is the cotton, wool or silk fabric produced in India by hand spinning and hand
weaving. In fact Mahatma Gandhi started his freedom movement with khadi as a symbol
of self reliance and swaraj. Thus Mahatma Gandhi is not only the father of nation but also
the father of khadi. After independence an independent statutory body called Khadi and
Village Industries Commission popularly known as KVIC was constituted in April 1957
under the act of Parliament. KVIC was charged with the responsibility to plan, organize
and implement the programme of promoting and developing khadi and village industries.
Presently cotton khadi industry having the widest coverage under KVIC, touches more
than 1 lakh villages of India, and thus generating large-scale employment opportunities to
the needy people belonging to unskilled and skilled category.
The object of present paper is to review the state of technology adopted in khadi
production from raw material to finished product and provide technological inputs for
improvement of quality and marketability of khadi. A case study is elaborated to illustrate
how a modern technical intervention has improved the quality of khadi garments by the
introduction of modern soft and stiff finishing technologies eventually leading to
establish a model production unit in one of the khadi production institutions for the
manufacture of finished garments of khadi with value addition. The philosophy adopted
was not to invent new technologies through research but to identify the well-established
technologies, which are regularly practiced in textile mill sector and downsize these
technologies to make them suitable for adaptation in khadi sector. A success story is
discussed related to the initiation of the programme, technology dissemination through
technology demonstration workshops on all India basis at selected khadi production
institutions and finally technology transfer by setting a model production unit in one of
the khadi institutions.
Introduction
Cotton, wool or silk fabric which is made by hand spinning of yarn and weaving
of fabric on handloom is known as Khadi. The hand spinning and hand weaving is the
age old technology practiced in India for producing exclusive fabrics. The term khadi was
given to such fabrics by mahatma Gandhi during the freedom movement.
In 18th century the inventions of steam engine, spinning machine and power loom
brought revolution in cotton textile industry. These developments coupled with British
power in India changed the entire scenario of cotton hand spinning and hand weaving in
India. In 1771, the first cotton textile mill was established in England, followed by

2. dozens of similar establishments for which cotton was imported from India. The story of
transformation of India from the biggest producer and exporter of hand spun and hand
woven cotton textiles to only supplier of cotton, as raw material to the English cotton
mills, was unfortunate and sad. The emergence of British as the rulers of India seems to
have played more crucial role than technological innovations in textile production. To
protect the English textile industry British mercilessly suppressed production of hand
spun and hand woven textiles in India. As a result millions of hand spinners and weavers
throughout India were rendered unemployed, deprived of the only means to earn their
livelihood and left to die of starvation.
Charkha, The best Gift of Gandhi
Gandhiji first came to know charkha in 1908 in London during discussions with
fellow Indians regarding the economic conditions in India. He felt that without charkha
there was no Swaraj, and that everyone should spin. He had a clear vision of his
programme of reviving the ancient industry of hand spinning and making charkha the
focal point of economic regeneration of poverty stricken villages as well as political
awakening amongst the Indian masses. When Mahatma Gandhi finally came to India in
1915, Swadeshi movement through boycott of foreign goods, especially cloth, was going
on. Gandhi's khadi programme gave a positive meaning to Swadeshi. He opined that
khadi alone could make such boycott a practical proposition. In 1919, Gandhi formally
launched the khadi programme in the country. The Indian National Congress in its
Nagpur session held in 1920 decided to encourage khadi. The first khadi production
centre was established in Kathiawad, Gujarat. In 1921 khadi found a formal place in the
Congress programme and charkha its proud place on the national flag. In 1925, Congress
formed an independent autonomous body called All India Spinners Association (AISA)
or Charkha Sangh for implementing khadi programme vigorously throughout the country.
Present Status
The question has often been asked will khadi survive in the present fast moving
world?. The original meaning of khadi as the hand spun hand woven cloth is gradually
disappearing with the use of electrical power in some of its production operations and
there are serious threats for the survival of khadi. However, the spirit of khadi will and
should survive if sustained and planned efforts are made, particularly by providing
scientific technical inputs through indigenous R&D and dynamic marketing strategies. It
is envisaged that new technological inputs will help to produce good quality khadi cloth
not only for rural masses but also for the elite urban class. New technical inputs would
also generate employment opportunities for a large number of unemployed and
underemployed people in the villages. Such a decentralized textile industry, run on
modern scientific lines, with hundreds of its production centres scattered all over the
country, along with other rural industries is bound to reduce poverty and unemployment
of rural masses and thus strengthen rural economy which, in turn, would strengthen
national economy as a whole.
Hand spun, hand woven fabric made of cotton, wool and silk is known as Khadi.
There is a variety categorized separately as Muslin, which is essentially a cotton khadi
woven by using very fine yarn of high count. There is also khadi cloth made of polyester/
cotton blend and marketed under the name polyvastra. The general mode of production

3. essentially consists of production of sliver by mechanical means. Presently there are five
centralized central sliver making plants located at Etah (U.P.), Rai Barelly (U.P.), Sehore
(M.P.), Chitra Durg (Karnataka), and Trichur (Kerala). The sliver is distributed to
different production centers where spinning is done using hand operated charkhas.
Individual spinners carry out the spinning at their own residence and at production
centers as well. The yarn is then supplied to handloom weavers. The weavers bring back
the cloth to production centres from where it is transported to different outlets for sale.
In general, the cloth is produced in anticipation of sale. This means that only
small quantity of cloth is produced against order. Also, market trends for designs and
colour combinations are marginally taken into account while manufacturing the cloth.
Apart from quality of fabric, lack of new design inputs is also one of the reasons for
khadi cloth's inability to capture high market share.
Facts
Some statistics related to Khadi (1999-2000)
Total yarn production (lakh Kg.) 265,36
Total khadi cloth production 84.32
(million square meter)
Value of khadi (Rs.Crore) 551.94
Total employment (lakh persons) 12.35
Closing stock of khadi cloth
The closing stock of khadi cloth for five years is given below
Closing stock of Khadi
Year Closing stock Rs. Crore
1995.96 522.23
1996-97 626.40
1997-98 624.10
1998-99 635.89
2000-01 551.94
Thus, it would be noticed that with each passing year the closing stock is
increasing. The technical inputs through indigenous R&D would improve the quality of
product, which shall certainly go a long way in improving per capita production, better
earning, and also reduce closing stocks.
Major issues

4. the major issues before the khadi sector are:
• Quality improvement at the pre-spinning, spinning, weaving and finished
product stage
• Machine design development and easy availability of spare parts at the
production centres
• New design inputs in woven and printed fabrics based on color forecasts
• Introduction of new technical inputs for value addition
• Improvement in dyeing techniques for better fastness properties
• Production planning according to market trends
• Aggressive marketing strategy
• Involvement of technically qualified personnel in khadi sector
• HRD programme on continuous basis
• Revamping of MDTC and khadi vidhyalayas
• Healthy working conditions at the production centres.
Involvement of IIT Delhi in KVIC activities
KVIC Mumbai sponsored a project “Revamping of Jamnalal Bajaj Central
Research Institute (JBCRI)” at Wardha. The project is of three years duration starting
from April 2001. Through this project it is envisaged to establish an institute for rural
industrialization to be named as Mahatma Gandhi Institute for Rural Industrialization.
The broad objective of this project is that through science, technology and managerial
inputs upgrade and accelerate the process of rural industrialization of our country so that
we can move towards Gandhian vision of sustainable village economy and the products
of khadi and village industry (KVI) sector can coexist with those of main stream
industrial sector and become equally popular in the country.
In order to do justice to the KVIC sponsored project the core group members
consisting of prof. Rajendra Prasad (Principal investigator, Centre of Rural
Development), Prof. P.L.Dhar, Prof. R.R.Gaur (Mechanical Engineering), and Prof.
R.B.Chavan (Textile Department) divided research and Development inputs required by
KVI sector into six generic areas:
1. Khadi and Textile industry
2. Chemical products
3. Bio-processing based industry
4. Rural infrastructure and energy
5. Rural crafts and engineering
6. Management and systems.
Each of these sections would respond to all the needs of production, quality
assurance, product diversification, marketing etc. of the products that come under its
purview. They would also be responsible for preparing and continually updating the
data base of available technologies and scientific and technical experts available in
the country in their area of work.
Activities of Khadi and Textile group.

5. In the present paper the activities of Khadi and Textile group from Depaartment
of Textile Technology, IIT Delhi are highlighted.
The khadi and Textile group consisted of
Prof. R.B.Chavan
Prof. R.Chattopadhyay
Shri R.P.Tewari, Handloom weaving expert from International Polytechnic for Women,
New Delhi.
Technical staff
Initial survey of khadi institutions
Though the three faculty members of the khadi group had an experience of textile
production in small scale industry, but had no exposure to khadi production. It was
therefore essential to visit some of the khadi production units to get an idea of khadi
production and also to understand the major problems faced by the khadi sector. 10 such
khadi production units in the vicinity of Delhi were visited. Following major problems
were identified
1. Considerable scope for improvement in quality of khadi fabric
2. Production not according to market demands
3. No design and product development inputs
4. Huge stock of unsold khadi stock worth few crores rupees on all India
basis.
5. Poor technical man power
6. Poor technical infra structure.
7. Total lack of research and development concept
Identifcation of R & D projects for khadi development
The visits to the khadi institutions helped to fomulate the R & D projects. The
foremost consideration in formulating such projects were
1. To improve the quality of khadi
2. To improve the marketability of khadi
3. Provide technical inputs to improve quality, productivity and to reduce
drudgery in khadi production
4. To improve technical skills through exhaustive training programmes
5. Planning for long-term technical inputs for visible impact in khadi sector.
Philosophy R & D Projects
It was thought that the identified projects should have immediate visible impact
in terms of improvement in quality of khadi fabrics and garments and should improve the
sale of khadi. From this point of view it was thought to identify the well established
technologies practiced in textile mill sector where the production is done on large scale
(mass production), downsize these technologies to make them suitable for khadi sector
which operates on the basis of production by masses. The methodology for identified R
& D projects therefore, consisted of three phases
Phase I
standardization and down-sizing the well established technology practiced in the textile
mill sector.

6. Phase II
Technology demonstration of downsized technology to the invitees from khadi sector
identified by KVIC
Technology demonstration on all India basis in selected khadi production units.
Phase III
Setting up model production unit in one of khadi production institutions
Having convinced with this philosophy, following projects were identified.
1. Finishing of khadi garments and fabrics
2. Dyeing with natural dyes
3. Mercerization of khadi yarn
4. Preparation of quality assurance manual
5. To reduce drudgery during hand spinning on Charkha
6. Introduction of wool/acrylic fibre blends
7. Technical skill upgradation through HRD programmes
Initial problem in initiation of R & D Projects
It was thought that the easiest way to initiate the R & D projects is through
M.Tech students. However, no M.Tech student was willing to work on the project
relevant to khadi. Their apprehension was that working on the khadi related project
means working on low technology area and blocking the career opportunities. The
students also felt that they may not even get a job in well-organized textile sector after
completion of their M.Tech. The student’s apprehension was true to a greater extent.
Both the faculty members of khadi group had to make great deal of efforts to convince
the students to work for their M.Tech projects relevant to khadi. Initially two students
from Fibre science and Technology stream were persuaded to work on finishing of khadi
garments and mercerization of khadi yarn as their M.Tech projects.
It is heartening to mention that these two students who very reluctantly agreed to
work on khadi projects, one of the students got the job in one of the reputed textile mills,
Arvind Mills, Ahmedabad and the second student was selected by the international
dyestuff manufacturing company, Clariant, Switzerland.
Finishing of khadi garments and fabrics
During the visits to khadi institutions it was observed that the major concern of
khadi sector was the problem of huge stock of unsold khadi. It was thought that in order
to make the visible impact, it would be essential to deal with this problem of khadi sector.
The khadi stock piling was mainly due to poor appearance and handle of khadi fabrics
and garments. One of the techniques to improve the fabric appearance and handle is to
subject the khadi fabrics and garments to modern finishing treatments. Following
finishing technologies practiced in the mill sector were identified
1. Soft finishing
2. Stiff finishing
3. Stone less stone wash finish
4. Enzyme finishing or biopolishing

7. 5. Wrinkle free finishing of polyvatra
Identification of downsized machines
The main purpose was to downsize the technology to make it suitable for khadi
sector. The choice of sophisticated machines used in the mill sector was therefore out of
question. Keeping this in view the machines identified for this project were commonly
available domestic washing machine with temperature control, hydro extractor and
tumble dryer. The cost of these machines was Rs. 35,000/-, which can be easily afforded
by the khadi sector.
Phase I
Standardization of Technology at IIT Delhi
Contribution by the M.Tech student
As a part of M.Tech thesis, Mr. Laxmikant worked on this project and
standardized the above finishing techniques on the down-sized scale. He also contributed
in writing a book on Finishing of Khadi garments. This book gives a step-by-step method
for the finishing of khadi garments, which can easily be followed by the layman. The
book also gives the theoretical background of each finishing technology for the benefit
of technical staff interested to know the technical details of each technology. The book
also contained the names and addresses of chemical suppliers to facilitate the adoption of
technology by the khadi sector.
Mr. Laxmikant standardized five finishing techniques for khadi garments using
domestic washing machine and tumble dryer. The finishing techniques standardized were
Soft finish
Stiff finish
Enzyme finishing or bio polishing
Stone less stone wash finish
Wrinkle free finish for polyvastra (polyester/cotton blend khadi)
Eco-friendly Chemicals
Since khadi is considered to be eco friendly, in order to maintain its eco
friendliness, the chemicals chosen for the various finishing treatments were eco-friendly
Soft finish
This is achieved by using amino silicone softeners. Many khadi fabrics are rough/
harsh to handle, whereas, the market demand is for soft and smooth fabric. The soft finish
makes the khadi fabric soft and smooth to handle, so that its marketability is improved.
The finish is durable to several washes.
Stiff finish
This is achieved by using polyvinyl acetate emulsion commercially available from
various textile auxiliary manufacturers. Khadi garments especially kurta and pyjama are
subjected to starch treatment to impart stiffness and smooth appearance. However, the
stiffness produced by starch is not durable. Therefore after every wash starching process
is essential. This adds to the maintenance cost of khadi garments. The polyvinyl acetate

8. treatment imparts more durable stiffness which last upto 10-15 washes. This means there
is no need of giving stiff finish after every wash. The garment acquires stiff and smooth
appearance after ironing (pressing) of washed garments. Thus the maintenance cost of the
garments is reduced considerable.
Enzyme finish
This finish is given by using cellulase enzyme, which causes the surface
dissolution of cotton when applied under controlled condition. This treatment makes the
garment soft with luster. It is the most popular treatment in the textile sector.
Stoneless stone wash finish
This treatment imparts abraded look to the dyed garments, which is in vogue for
fashion garments. This is most popular treatment for the garments meant for younger
generation of both the sexes. The purpose of introducing this technique in the khadi
sector was to make khadi garments popular amongst the younger generation so that the
sale of khadi is enhanced. This is archived by using a special system developed for
pigment dyeing.
Wrinkle free finish
For high value garments this finish is most popular. However, one of the
drawbacks of this finish is the heavy loss in strength of the fabric. Therefore, use of this
finish is suggested to polyvastra rather than cotton khadi garments. The advantage of the
finish is easy ironing and smooth appearance of the garments after repeated washing.
Phase II (Part I)
Technology demonstration on finishing of khadi garments
After standardization of khadi garment finishing techniques, the technology
demonstration workshop of three days was conducted at the Department of Textile
Technology, IIT Delhi. The participants were senior representatives of khadi production
units on all India basis, senior technical officers from KVIC, representatives from khadi
bhandars and NGO.
All the five finishing techniques mentioned above were demonstrated using
domestic washing machine and tumble dryer. A book on “Finishing of Khadi garments
giving a step by step procedure of the finishing techniques were distributed to all the
participants. The book also contained the addresses of the chemical and equipment
suppliers. During the demonstration, all the participants were shown the chemicals to be
used for each finishing process and the method for the preparation finishing bath.
Theoretical information was also provided on the functions of each chemical and how
they impart the desirable property to khadi garment.
The participants took keen interest in the technology demonstration. Some of the
participants participated in actual finishing operations. Samples of finishing chemicals
were also provided to many participants who had shown interest in carrying out the
finishing experiments on return to their parent organizations. All the participants were
enthused and more than satisfied with the technology demonstration workshops.
Concluding session of the workshop

9. On the third day the concluding session was organized to get the feed back of the
participants. Dr. Mahesh Sharma, Chairman, KVIC himself was present during the
concluding session. The unanimous feed back from all the participants was that all the
five finishing techniques would give value addition to khadi garments. However out of
five techniques the two, viz. stiff and soft finishing techniques can be immediately
adopted and introduced in the khadi sector.
Phase II (Part two)
Technology demonstration workshop on all India basis
Having satisfied with the technology demonstration workshop at IIT Delhi,
KVIC, Mumbai approved a series of technology demonstration workshops to be
conducted at selected khadi production units on all India basis. KVIC also approved
suitable funds for conducting such workshops. The technical team from IIT Delhi in
collaboration with KVIC, Mumbai, identified the khadi production units for conducting
technology demonstration workshops. The involvement of KVIC staff from state office
and neighbouring khadi production units was sought. Emphasis was given on stiff and
soft finishing of khadi garments. Over a period of few months the technology
demonstration workshops on stiff and soft finishing of khadi garments were conducted at
the following khadi production units in different states.
Uttar Pradesh
1. Central Sliver Plant, Etah
2. Kshetriya Shri Gandhi Ashram, Barabanki
3. Kshetriya Shri Gandhi Ashram, Saharanpur
Maharashtra
4. Magan wadi , Wardha
5. Marathwada Khadi Gr. Samitee, Nanded
Rajasthan
6. Kshetriya . Khadi Gramodyog Samittee, Dausa
Tamilnad
7. .Padyur Sarvodaya Sangh, Padyur
Jharkhand
8. .Chhotanagpur Khadi Gr. Sansthan, Tiril, Ranchi
Conducting the workshops
At all the khadi production units the technology demonstration of Finishing of
Khadi garments was carried out with the help of 5 kg domestic washing machine. This
machine was suitable for finishing of khadi garments but not suitable for finishing of
khadi fabrics. Wherever, facilities were available, finishing of khadi fabrics was also
demonstrated. All the workshops were very well attended by the representatives of
neighbouring khadi production units (secretary/ technical), and senior regional officers
from KVIC. Theoretical and practical information of chemical processing in general and

10. finishing in particular of cotton khadi was given in the simplest possible way. Major
emphasis was given on the methodology to be adopted for cost reduction of finishing
techniques. Actual soft and stiff finishing of variety of khadi garments and fabrics was
carried out with the involvement of the participants at all the institutions. After the
practical demonstration on the first day, the finished and unfinished samples were
circulated among the participants for their assessment of the improvement in quality and
appearance brought about by the finishing techniques. After this the feed back from the
representatives of each participating khadi production unit and KVIC officers was
discussed. During the feedback emphasis was given on the following aspects
1. Do the finishing techniques make appreciable difference in the quality and
appearance of khadi garments and fabrics?
2. Whether the consumers would like the finished khadi garments/fabrics?
3. Whether there would be increase in khadi sale after finishing
4. Can the additional cost incurred in finishing be absorbed in the sale price?
5. Will the finishing techniques help in reducing the stock of khadi?
6. How individual khadi institution can implement the finishing techniques in their
respective units?
It is heartening to mention that there was overwhelming positive feedback for aspects
1-5 mentioned above. However for the aspect 6 viz implementation of finishing
techniques at individual khadi institution there were following apprehensions.
1. The equipments used for demonstration were not suitable for production
2. The equipments were also not suitable for finishing of khadi fabrics.
3. Many khadi institution representatives were keen on finishing of khadi fabrics
rather than khadi garments.
4. One of the major apprehensions was the availability of funds for the purchase of
appropriate production equipments for the implementation of finishing
techniques. All the institutions expressed their inability to invest for the purchase
of suitable finishing equipments for production of finished fabrics and garments.
The apprehensions of the participants from khadi institutions are well justified
because the equipments used for demonstration were mainly suitable for
• Laboratory scale production and sampling and not for bulk production
• Garment finishing and not for fabric finishing.
During the discussion it was informed to the participants that it was not possible
to use the production scale equipments for the technology demonstration workshops. It
was suggested that production scale equipments are available in India both for garment
and fabric finishing. Though convinced with the results of garment finishing, khadi
institutions showed their inability for making investments for the purchase of production
equipments.
In view of the above feed back the technical team from IIT Delhi made
recommendation to KVIC Mumbai to approve the budget for setting up a model
production unit at one of the khadi production units. This unit may be used as a common
facility center for finishing khadi garments and khadi fabrics for the benefit of
neighbouring khadi prodution units. It was also recommended that such model unit might
be set up at Kshetriya Shri Gandhi Ashram, Barabanki (UP).

11. Choice of Kshetriya shri Gandhi Ashram barabanki
The choice of Kshetriya Shri Gandhi Ashram, Barabanki was justified on the
following grounds
1. The unit already has basic infrastructure for khadi fabric processing. Only few
additional types of equipment would be necessary.
2. Very competent dyeing manager and his team.
3. The unit has technical leadership, because among the 8 technology demonstration
workshops conducted at various khadi institutions, this is the only institution,
which has very successfully implemented the finishing technology on commercial
scale.
4. The unit also has a khadi vidyalaya where the courses on khadi production are
taught at the certificate/diploma level. This makes the ideal place for the unit for
product development through student projects using innovative minds of young
generation
5. The model unit can be used as a training center for training of personnel from
other khadi institutions. The training while showing the actual production would
be more realistic than training of technical staff using laboratory scale
equipments.
6. The unit has adequate space for setting up the model unit.
It was also suggested to KVIC, Mumbai that training on production scale
machinery would immensely help the trainees to adopt the processes immediately.
This would facilitate them to implement the processes in their respective institutions.
This would also help to convince the khadi institutions, the improvement in khadi
quality achieved by using proper machinery and process parameters. Some of the
khadi institutions may come forward to invest on their own for the procurement of
some the machines depending on their financial position.
Based on the experience of the model khadi fabric/garment finishing unit, additional
finishing units on zonal basis as common facility centers can be commissioned.
Phase III
Technology transfer
Model khadi fabric and garment finishing unit
It is heartening to mention that KVIC appreciated the idea technology transfer by
setting up a model unit at Kshetriya Shri Gandhi Ashram, Barabanki. A grant of Rs.
12.55 lakh was approved for a garment finishing unit with a capacity for finishing
500-800 garments per day. The technical team from Department of Textile Technology,
IIT Delhi, KVIC State Directorate, Lucknow, Secretary and technical staff from
Kshetriya shri Gandhi Ashram, Barabanki, worked cohesively in close collaboration
with each other. The following machines were identified, ordered from the of the reputed
machine manufacturers and installed.
Machine Number

12. 1. Garment finishing machine One
2. Hydro-extractor One
3. Tumble dryer One
4. steam press boiler One
5. Garment pressing tables Three
6. Steam press for garment pressing Three
7. Automatic jiggers Two
Inauguration
Honorable Union State Minister for Agriculture and Rural industries, Shri
Sanghpriya Gautam inaugurated the Khadi Garment finishing unit and also the exhibition
of khadi and village industries products.During the inaugural speech the honourable
minister expressed his happiness for the technical inputs in the khadi sector and giving it
a new lease of life. The minister. said that these technical inputs would attract the
younger generation and many others towards khadi, which should help to boost the sale
of khadi and regain its employment generation potentialities. He congratulated KVIC,
Secretary, Kshetriya shri Gandhi Ashram Barabanki and technical team from
Department of Textile Technology, IIT Delhi for coming forward to set up the modern
Khadi garment finishing unit. He expressed the desire to set up such modern units in
different regions.
Honourable Union Minister Inaugurating the Model Khadi garment finishing unit

13. Media coverage
As many as 10 news papers from Lucknow and 3 news papers from Barabanki
covered the event. Majority of the papers written that it is the first attempt to modernize
the khadi sector which would go a long way in improving the status of khadi in terms of
its marketability. Some of the news paper headlines were as follows:
1. Modernization of khadi unit renews hopes (Hindustan Times)
2. India’s first khadi finishing unit at Barabanki (Pioneer)
3. Hi-tech unit to give khadi wings (Indian Express)
4. India’s first modern model khadi finishing unit inaugurated (Times of India)
Similar glowing headlines were given by Hindi news papers such as Jansatta,
Swatantra Bharat, Aaj, Dainik Jagran, Hindustan, Amar Ujala, Rashtriya Sahara etc.
Other projects
development of acrylic/merino wool blend for shawl manufacture
Presently in khadi sector shawls are manufactured by using 100% Merino wool. This
wool is imported from Australia/New Zealand at a high cost. Therefore obviously the
shawl manufactured by using Merino wool is costly and is purchased only by high-
income group people. The Khadi group at IIT Delhi undertook this work with the
following aims
a) Reduce the consumption of costly imported Merino wool to save the
foreign exchange.
b) To reduce the cost of the shawl for low and medium income group
people
c) To enhance the shawl production to generate more employment
potentiality.
The Choice of Acrylic Fibre for Blending With Wool
Among the other synthetic fibers like Polyester and Nylon, Acrylic fibre was
selected for blending with Wool because the thermal conductivity of Acrylic is close to
that of Wool. This means that the warmth of the Wool will not be seriously affected by
blending with Acrylic.
The Choice of the Blend Ratio
In order to have the economic advantage a blend ratio of 20 percent Merino wool
and 80 percent of Acrylic was selected.

14. Research and Development
Through R & D inputs, the blending of Acrylic with Wool and subsequent spinning
on NMC charkha was standardized. The dyeing techniques of the blended yarn was also
investigated and standardized.
Transfer of Technical Know How
The technical know how was given to the khadi unit, Udyog Mandir, Amer, Jaipur.
It is heartening to mention that the unit has carried out the production of Acrylic and
Wool blended shawls on commercial scale. Initially 100 shawls were produced for
market feed back. The market feed back was very encouraging. The unit has planned to
produce the acrylic/wool-blended shawls in large quantity.
Fabrication of yarn mercerization machine
The mercerization process essentially consists of treatment of cotton in yarn form
with high concentration (25%) of caustic soda under tension. The process is simple and
has several advantages such as
1. Increase in yarn strength
2. No shrinkage during subsequent chemical processing
3. Increase in dye uptake
4. Increase in chemical reactivity
Mercerization machine design
The commercially available machine is very sophisticated and expensive and
imported. Therefore, it was thought to design and fabricate a suitable machine to take
advantages of the mercerization process and introduce the technique in khadi sector. A
laboratory model to mercerize 1 kg of khadi yarn has been designed and fabricated
(Shown in fig. )

15. Mercerization Machine
Attempts are being made to design and fabricate a machine to process 3kg of
khadi yarn in hank form to make the process commercially viable.
Dyeing of khadi with natural dyes
For environmental protection the concept of natural dyes is well accepted
particularly in western market. India has a reach tradition of dyeing cotton wool and silk
with natural dyes. However, the problems associated with the traditional knowledge on
dyeing with natural dyes are: non-reproducibility of the results and inadequate fastness
properties of the dyed fabric.
Research and Development at IIT Delhi
The R & D activities are aimed at to overcome the problems associated with the
traditional technique of dyeing with natural dyes. A large number of natural dye sources
were evaluated for their fastness performance. The following sources have been found to
give satisfactory fastness properties. .
1. Anar (Pomegranate)
2. Babool (Acacia)
3. Harda (Myrabolan)
4. Katha (Cutch)
5. Arjun (Arjuna)
6. Safeda (Eucalyptus)
7. Amla

16. A technique for the dyeing of cotton, wool and silk fabrics has also been established
which would give reproducible results.
Bulk Scale Trial - A Bulk scale trial was conducted by carrying out dyeing of khadi
fabric with different natural dye sources. This trial has been very successful and some of
the shades of natural dyes produced on bulk scale are shown in following photographs.
Anar (Fe and Al mordant) Harda (Fe mordant)
Anar (Al mordant) Babool (Al mordant)
Arjun (Al mordant) Safeda (Al mordant)

17. Katha (Cu mordant)
All the shades showed light, wash and rubbing fastness properties, which are
commercially acceptable.
The Technology Transfer
It is planned to transfer the technology through technology demonstration workshops
to be conducted at khadi institutions on all India basis.
Quality assurance manual
There is no concept of quality assurance in khadi sector. In order to improve the
quality of khadi it is very essential to introduce this concept. The khadi group at IIT Delhi
undertook the task of preparation of quality assurance manual for khadi sector. Large
number of khadi yarn and khadi fabric samples were collected, experimentally tested and
carefully analyzed for various quality parameters. Based on these analysis, quality norms
for cotton fibre, khadi yarn and khadi fabrics have been suggested. Two volumes one
quality assurance at a glance and second giving details of quality assurance, quality
assurance norms, test equipments, test procedures, technology of khadi production,
process control and monitoring, various test formats etc. Exhaustive training
programmes would be essential to create the awareness of quality assurance in khadi
sector.
Conclusion
1. The philosophy of identifying the well established technologies practiced in the
textile mill sector (mass production) and downsizing these technologies to make
them suitable for khadi sector (production by masses) has been found to be
successful.

18. 2. Through phased manner i.e. standardization of downsized technology in the
laboratory, technology demonstration at IIT Delhi, technology demonstration on
all India basis, and technology transfer, it was possible to transfer the technology
of finishing of khadi fabrics and khadi garments in the khadi sector.
3. The new technology has shown visible impact in terms of value addition and
increase in the sale of khadi garments.
4. A quality assurance manual has been prepared to introduce the concept of quality
in khadi sector.
5. Attempts are being made to transfer the technology of mercerization of khadi
yarn, dyeing of khadi fabric with natural dyes and blending of acrylic with Merino
wool for the shawl manufacture.
Acknowledgement
IIT Delhi acknowledges with many thanks the Chairman, KVIC for
sponsoring the project “Revamping of Jamnalal Bajaj central research institute at
Wardha (maharashtra)” and to set up Mahatma Gandhi institute of rural
industrialization at Wardha. The author is thankful to the core group members prof.
Rajendra Prasad, Prof. Dhar and Prof. Gaur for their encouragement and support to
the activities of khadi group. The author is also thankful to the members of khadi
group Prof. Chattopadhya, Shri R.P.Tewari and the technical staff of the project for
their active participation and healthy discussions.