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[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],OBJECTIVES: After studying Chapter 40, the reader should be able to:
[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],KEY TERMS: Continued
[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],KEY TERMS: Continued
[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],KEY TERMS:
[object Object]
CRANKING CIRCUIT ,[object Object],Continued ,[object Object],Figure 40–1 A typical solenoid-operated starter.
[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],Continued
Figure 40–2  Some column-mounted ignition switches act directly on the contact points, whereas others use a link from lock cylinder to ignition switch. ,[object Object],Figure 40–3  A typical wiring diagram of a starter circuit. Continued The engine is cranked by an electric motor controlled by a key-operated ignition switch.
[object Object],Continued
Whenever diagnosing any starter-related problem, open the door of the vehicle and observe the brightness of the dome or interior light(s) while attempting to crank the engine. Why? Watch the Dome Light ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]
COMPUTER-CONTROLLED STARTING ,[object Object],Continued
[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],Some customers have complained that the engine cranks after they release the ignition key and assume that there is a fault with the ignition switch or starter circuit. If the vehicle is equipped with computer-controlled starting, it is normal for the engine to crank until it starts and it may crank longer than the customer thinks it should especially in cold weather. Check That Extended Cranking May Be Normal Operation Computer-controlled starting is almost always part of the system if a push-button start is used. Before the PCM cranks the engine, the following conditions must be met: Continued
Figure 40–4  The top button on this key fob is the remote start button. ,[object Object],The doors remain locked so the possibility of theft is reduced.  This feature allows the heater or air-conditioning system to start before the driver arrives.  NOTE:   Most remote start systems will turn off the engine after 10 minutes of run time unless reset by the use of the remote.
HOW THE STARTER MOTOR WORKS ,[object Object],Continued
Figure 40–5  A typical starter motor. Continued
[object Object],Continued
[object Object],[object Object],Continued
[object Object],Continued
Figure 40–6  This series-wound electric motor shows the basic operation with only two brushes: one hot brush and one ground brush. The current flows through both field coils, then through the hot brush and through the loop winding of the armature before reaching ground through the ground brush. ,[object Object],The two magnetic fields created inside the starter housing create force that rotates the armature.
HOW MAGNETIC FIELDS TURN AN ARMATURE ,[object Object],Continued
Figure 40–7  The interaction of the magnetic fields of the armature loops and field coils creates a stronger magnetic field on the right side of the conductor, causing the armature loop to move toward the left. Continued
Figure 40–8  The armature loops rotate due to the difference in the strength of the magnetic field. The loops move from a strong magnetic field strength toward a weaker magnetic field strength. ,[object Object],Continued
Figure 40–9  Pole shoes and field windings installed in the housing. ,[object Object],The pole shoes are made of iron and are attached to the frame with large screws.  The magnetic field of the starter motor is provided by two or more pole shoes and field windings.  Continued
[object Object],[object Object],Figure 40–10  Magnetic lines of force in a four-pole motor. Continued
[object Object],Figure 40–11  A pole shoe and field winding. Pole shoes that do not have field windings are magnetized by flux lines from the wound poles.
TYPES OF STARTER MOTORS ,[object Object],Continued Figure 40–12  This wiring diagram illustrates the construction of a series-wound electric motor. All current flows through the field coils, then the armature (in series) before reaching ground. Electric motors are classified according to the internal electrical motor connections. Many starter motors are series wound, which means the current flows first through the field coils, then in series through the armature, and finally through the ground brushes.
[object Object],Continued
[object Object],Figure 40–13  This wiring diagram illustrates construction of a shunt-type electric motor. Shunt type electric motors have the field coils in parallel (or shunt) across the armature as shown. Continued Small electric motors used in blower motors, windshield wipers, power windows, and power seats use permanent magnets. A shunt motor, however, does not produce as high a starting torque as that of a series-wound motor, and is not used for starters.  To compensate for the lack of torque, all PM starters use gear reduction to multiply starter motor torque.
[object Object],Figure 40–14 A compound motor is a combination of series and shunt types, using part of the field coils connected electrically in series with the armature and some in parallel (shunt). Compound-wound starter motors are commonly used in Ford, GM and Chrysler starters. The shunt-wound field coil is called a shunt coil and is used to limit maximum speed of the starter.
ARMATURE AND COMMUTATOR ASSEMBLY ,[object Object],Continued Figure 40–15  A typical starter motor armature.
[object Object],Figure 40–16  An armature lap winding. In a  wave winding , the two ends are attached to commutator bars 180 degrees apart (on opposite sides of the commutator).  A lap-wound armature is more commonly used because it offers less resistance. The commutator is made of copper bars insulated from each other by  mica  or some other insulating material.  Continued
Figure 40–17  The pinion gear meshes with the fly wheel ring gear. ,[object Object],This shaft also carries the pinion gear that meshes with the engine flywheel ring gear.  The shaft is supported by bearings or bushings in the end housings. To supply the proper current to the armature, a four-pole motor must have four brushes which are held against the commutator by spring force.  Continued
Figure 40–18  A cutaway of a typical starter motor.
PERMANENT MAGNET FIELDS ,[object Object]
Figure 40–19  This starter permanent-magnet field housing was ruined when someone used a hammer on the field housing in an attempt to “fix” a starter that would not work. A total replacement is the only solution in this case. ,[object Object],Some early PM starters used magnets that were glued or bonded to the field housing.  If struck with a heavy tool, magnets could be broken, with parts of the magnet falling onto the armature and into the bearing pockets, making the starter impossible to repair or rebuild.
In the past, it was common to see service technicians hitting a starter in their effort to diagnose a no-crank condition. Often the shock of the blow to the starter aligned or moved the brushes, armature, and bushings. Many times, the starter functioned after being hit—even if only for a short time. However, most of today’s starters use  permanent - magnet fields,  and the magnets can be easily broken if hit. A magnet that is broken becomes two weaker magnets. Some early PM starters used magnets that were glued or bonded to the field housing. If struck with a heavy tool, the magnets could be broken, with parts of the magnet falling onto the armature and into the bearing pockets, making the starter impossible to repair or rebuild.  Don’t Hit That Starter!
GEAR REDUCTION STARTERS ,[object Object],Continued
Figure 40–20  Many gear-reduction starters use a planetary gear-reduction assembly similar to that used in an automatic transmission.
STARTER DRIVES ,[object Object],Continued The ends of the starter pinion gear are tapered to help the teeth mesh more easily without damaging the flywheel ring gear teeth. Figure 40–21 A cutaway of a typical starter drive.
[object Object],Continued
Figure 40–22  The ring gear to pinion gear ratio is usually 15:1 to 20:1 ,[object Object],If the engine started and accelerated to 2000 rpm (normal cold engine speed), the starter would be destroyed by the high speed (36,000 rpm) if not disengaged from the engine.
[object Object],Continued
[object Object],[object Object],Continued
Figure 40–23  Operation of the overrunning clutch. (a) Starter motor is driving the starter pinion and cranking the engine. The rollers are wedged against spring force into their slots. (b) The engine has started and is rotating faster than the starter armature. Spring force pushes the rollers so they can rotate freely. ,[object Object],(a) (b) Continued
[object Object],Figure 40–24 Cutaway of a solenoid-activated starter showing the solenoid, shift lever, and starter drive assembly that includes the starter pinion and overrunning clutch with a mesh spring in one unit. This spring is called a  compression spring  because the starter solenoid or starter yoke compresses the spring and the spring tension causes the starter pinion to engage the engine flywheel.  Continued
STARTER DRIVE OPERATION ,[object Object],Continued
[object Object]
Figure 40–25 A Ford movable-pole-shoe starter. ,[object Object],High starting current is controlled by an ignition switch–operated starter solenoid, usually mounted near the positive battery post. Continued POSITIVE ENGAGEMENT STARTERS
[object Object],Continued
[object Object]
SOLENOID OPERATED STARTERS ,[object Object],Continued The two internal windings contain approximately the same number of turns but are made from a different gauge wire. Together both windings produce a strong magnetic field that pulls a metal plunger into the solenoid. The plunger is attached to the starter drive through a  shift fork lever . When the ignition switch is turned to the start position, the motion of the plunger into the solenoid causes the starter drive to move into mesh with the flywheel ring gear.
Figure 40–26  Wiring diagram of a typical starter solenoid. Notice that both the pull-in winding and the hold-in winding are energized when the ignition switch is first turned to the  “start” position. As soon as the solenoid contact disk makes electrical contact with both B and M terminals, the battery current is conducted to the starter motor and electrically neutralizes the pull-in winding. ,[object Object],The lighter-gauge winding (called the  hold-in winding ) produces enough magnetic force to keep the plunger in position.
[object Object]
STARTING SYSTEM TROUBLESHOOTING ,[object Object],Continued Continued
VOLTAGE DROP TESTING ,[object Object],Continued NOTE:   Before a difference in voltage (voltage drop) can be measured between the ends of a battery cable, current must be flowing through the cable.  Resistance is not effective unless current is flowin g. If the engine is not being cranked, current is not flowing through the battery cables and the voltage drop cannot be measured.
[object Object],Many techs have asked, “Why measure voltage drop when resistance can be easily measured using an ohmmeter?” Think of a battery cable with all strands of the cable broken, except for one strand. Voltage Drop is Resistance - Part 1 In less severe cases, several strands can be broken and can affect the operation of the starter motor. While the resistance of the battery cable will not indicate any increased resistance, the restriction to current flow will cause heat and a decrease in the voltage available at the starter.  Since resistance is not effective until current flows, measuring the voltage drop (differences in voltage between two points) is the most accurate method of determining the true resistance in a circuit. How much is too much?
[object Object],[object Object],According to Bosch Corporation, all electrical circuits should have a maximum of 3% loss of the voltage of the circuit to resistance. Therefore, in a 12-volt circuit, the maximum loss of voltage in cables and connections should be 0.36 volt (12 X 0.03 = 0.36 volt.) The remaining 97% of the circuit voltage (11.64 volts) is available to operate the electrical device (load). Just remember: Voltage Drop is Resistance - Part 2
[object Object],Continued High-voltage drop (high resistance) in the cranking circuit wiring can cause slow engine cranking with less than normal starter amperage drain as a result of excessive circuit resistance. If voltage drop is high enough, such as could be caused by dirty battery terminals, the starter may not operate. A typical symptom of high ­resistance in the cranking circuit is a “clicking” of the starter solenoid. Voltage-drop testing of the wire involves connecting any voltmeter (on the low scale) to the suspected high-resistance cable ends and cranking the engine. See Figures 40–27 through 40–29.
Figure 40–27  Voltmeter hookups for voltage-drop testing of a GM-type cranking circuit. Continued
Figure 40–28  Voltmeter hookups for voltage-drop testing of a Ford-type cranking circuit. Continued
Figure 40–29  To test the voltage drop of the battery cable connection, place one voltmeter lead on the battery terminal and the other voltmeter lead on the cable end and crank the engine. The voltmeter will read the difference in voltage between the two leads which should not exceed 0.2 volt (200 mV). NOTE:   Before a difference in voltage (voltage drop) can be measured between the ends of a battery cable, current must be flowing through the cable.  Resistance is not effective unless current is flowin g. If the engine is not being cranked, current is not flowing through the battery cables and the voltage drop cannot be measured.
[object Object],Continued Voltage Drop Test
[object Object],Continued If a cable or connection is hot to the touch, there is electrical resistance in the cable or connection. The resistance changes electrical energy into heat energy. Therefore, if a voltmeter is not available, carefully touch the battery cables and connections while cranking the engine. If any cable or connection is hot to the touch, it should be cleaned or replaced. Heat Equals Resistance
[object Object],When there is excessive current flow through the cable, battery cables can overheat. The amount of current (in amperes) is determined by the power required to operate the starter motor. A typical problem involved a vehicle driven to Florida from Michigan.  Battery Cable Heat and Counter EMF Although it is true that a smaller battery can be used in warmer climates, a large battery does absolutely no harm and, in fact, generally lasts longer than a smaller battery. The cause of the problem was discovered (by testing) to be a defective starter motor that rotated too slowly. The too-slow rotation of the starter meant that the starter was not producing the normal amount of counter EMF or CEMF. The overall result was a tremendous increase in current being drawn from the battery, and it was this extra current flow that heated the battery cables.
CONTROL CIRCUIT TESTING ,[object Object],Continued An open or break anywhere in the control circuit will prevent  operation of the starter motor.
Figure 40–30  GM solenoid ohmmeter check. The reading between 1 and 3 (S terminal and ground) should be 0.4 to 0.6 ohm (hold-in winding). The reading between 1 and 2 (S terminal and M terminal) should be 0.2 to 0.4 ohm (pull-in winding). If a starter is inoperative, check for voltage at the  S  ( start ) terminal of the starter solenoid.  Some newer models with antitheft controls use a relay to open this control circuit to prevent starter operation.  See Figure 40–31 for a starter system diagnostic chart. Continued
Figure 40–31 Starter trouble diagnostic chart. See the chart on Page 429 of your textbook.
[object Object],SPECIFICATIONS FOR A STARTER AMPERAGE TEST Figure 40–32  Starter current can be measured by using a high-current clamp and a digital multimeter or a specialized starting and charging tester. Continued
Continued ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],Excessive current draw may indicate one or more of the following:  A starter amperage test should be performed whenever the starter fails to operate normally (is slow in cranking) or as part of a routine electrical system inspection. If exact specs are not available, the following can be used for testing a starter on the vehicle:
[object Object],The Starter That Croaked and the Jumping  Battery Cables - Part 1 NOTE:   It is normal for the dome light to dim during cranking as a result of the lowered battery voltage during cranking. However, the voltage should not drop below 9.6 volts, which normally will still provide adequate voltage to light the dome light dimly.
[object Object],The Starter That Croaked and the Jumping  Battery Cables - Part 2 This provided a direct path to ground for the starter current, which resulted in a substantially greater amount of current (in amperes) leaving the battery than would normally occur with a good starter. This amount of current drain lowered the battery voltage so much that the dome light did not light. Why did the battery cables jump? The battery cables jumped because the high current flow created a strong magnetic field around each cable. Because one cable is positive and the other cable is negative, the magnetic fields were of opposite polarity and were attracted toward each other.
STARTER REMOVAL ,[object Object],Continued Step #1   Disconnect the negative battery cable. Step #2   Hoist the vehicle safely. Step #3   Remove the starter retaining bolts and lower the starter to gain access to the wire(s) connection(s) on the starter. Step #4   Disconnect the wire(s) from the starter;remove the starter. Step #5   Inspect the flywheel (flex plate) for ring gear damage. Check that mounting holes and flange are clean and smooth. See the procedure in Figures 40-33 through 40-38
Figure 40–33  Before disassembly of any starter, mark the location of the through bolts on the field housing. This makes reassembly easier. Continued
Figure 40–34  Removing the solenoid from the starter on a GM-type starter assembly. Continued
Figure 40–35  Rotate the solenoid to remove it from the starter housing. ( Caution: The plunger return spring exerts a force on the solenoid and may cause  injury if not carefully released. Continued
Figure 40–36  The brushes should be replaced if worn to less than 50% of their original length. Replace if less than 1/2-inch long (13 millimeters). Continued
Figure 40–37  An exploded view of a General Motors starter. Continued
Figure 40–38  To replace the starter drive unit, the retainer and clip must be removed from the armature shaft. A box-end wrench and a hammer can pop the retainer off of the spring clip.
STARTER DISASSEMBLY ,[object Object],Continued Step #1   Remove the solenoid from the starter assembly if equipped. Step #2   Remove the through bolts and separate the drive-end (DE) housing from the field frame. Step #3   Remove the armature assembly.
[object Object],Figure 40–39  Measuring an armature shaft for runout using a dial indicator and V- blocks. Because loops of copper wire are interconnected in the armature of a starter, an armature can be accurately tested only by a  growler .  A growler is a 110-volt AC test unit that generates an alternating (60 hertz) magnetic field around an armature.  When it is switched on, the moving magnetic field creates an alternating current in the windings of the armature. Continued
[object Object],Continued
Figure 40–40  Replacement starter brushes should be installed so the beveled edge matches the rotation of the commutator. Continued
[object Object],NOTE:   Many starters use removable field coils, and these coils must be rewound using the proper equipment and insulating materials. Usually, the cost involved in replacing defective field coils exceeds the cost of a replacement starter. Continued
[object Object],Continued
[object Object],Continued
STARTER INSTALLATION ,[object Object],Continued Step #1   Check service information for the exact wiring connections to the starter and/or solenoid. Step #2   Verify that all electrical connections on the starter motor and/or solenoid are correct for the vehicle and that they are in good condition. Step #3   Attach the power and control wires. Step #4  Install the starter, and torque all the fasteners to factory specifications.
Figure 40–41  A shim (or half shim) may be needed to provide the proper clearance between the flywheel teeth of the engine and the pinion teeth of the starter. ,[object Object],If clearance is too great, the starter will produce a high-pitched whine  during  cranking.  If the  clearance is too small , the starter will produce a high-pitched whine  after  the engine starts, just as the ignition key is released.
Continued Many GM starters use shims (thin metal strips) between the flywheel and the engine block mounting pad to provide the proper clearance.  NOTE:   Be sure that the locking nuts for the studs are tight. Often the retaining nut that holds the wire to the stud will be properly tightened, but if the stud itself is loose, cranking problems can occur. NOTE:   Some manufacturers use shims under starter drive-end housings during production. Other manufacturers  grind  the mounting pads at the factory for proper starter pinion gear clearance. If  any  GM starter is replaced, the starter pinion  must  be checked and corrected as necessary to prevent starter damage and excessive noise.
[object Object],Continued
CAUTION:   Be sure to install all factory heat shields to help ensure proper starter operation under all weather and driving conditions. NOTE:   The major cause of broken drive-end housings on starters is too small a clearance. If the clearance cannot be measured, it is better to put a shim between the engine block and the starter than to leave one out and risk breaking a drive-end housing.
[object Object],[object Object],Before installing a new or rebuilt starter in a vehicle, be sure that both the positive cable and the negative cable are in good condition. The reason is all electrical power must have a complete path from the power source, through the electrical loads, and back to the power source. This rule is true for all circuits, whether series, parallel, or series-parallel type Ground Wire Current Flow - Part 1 Because current flow is actually a measure of the number of electrons making the trip through a circuit, this same number of electrons also must return to the power source. The electrical pressure (voltage) on the return (ground) wires is low (almost zero), but the current in amperes must still flow back to the battery. The battery ground cable must be just as large as the positive cable because just as many amperes return as leave the battery.  Still not convinced ?
Connect a starting-charging-testing unit to a vehicle.  Instead of connecting the ampere probe around the positive cable, connect it around the ground cable (all cables should be within the ampere probe if more than one ground cable is connected to the battery terminal). All ammeter readings should be the same if taken on the positive or negative cables of the battery. Ground Wire Current Flow - Part 2 NOTE:   Most starting-charging-testing units use an arrow on the ammeter probe to show polarity. Reversing the direction in which the arrow points is often necessary to read the correct polarity (positive or negative) on the tester display.
Most General Motors starter motors use a pad mount and attach to the engine with bolts through the drive-end (nose) housing. Many times when a starter is replaced on a GM vehicle, the starter makes noise because of improper starter pinion-to-engine flywheel ring gear clearance. Instead of spending a lot of time shimming the new starter, simply remove the drive-end housing from the original starter and install it on the replacement starter. Because the original starter did not produce excessive gear engagement noise, the replacement starter should also be okay. Reuse any shims that were used with the original starter. This method is better than having to remove and reinstall the replacement starter several times until the proper clearance is determined. Reuse Drive-End Housings to Be Sure
STARTING SYSTEM TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE See the chart on Page 432 of your textbook.
[object Object],Continued
[object Object],( cont. ) Continued
[object Object],( cont. ) Continued
[object Object],( cont. )
SUMMARY ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],Continued
SUMMARY ,[object Object],[object Object],( cont. )
end

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Chapter 40

  • 2.
  • 3.
  • 4.
  • 5.
  • 6.
  • 7.
  • 8.
  • 9.
  • 10.
  • 11.
  • 12.
  • 13.
  • 14.
  • 15.
  • 16. Figure 40–5 A typical starter motor. Continued
  • 17.
  • 18.
  • 19.
  • 20.
  • 21.
  • 22. Figure 40–7 The interaction of the magnetic fields of the armature loops and field coils creates a stronger magnetic field on the right side of the conductor, causing the armature loop to move toward the left. Continued
  • 23.
  • 24.
  • 25.
  • 26.
  • 27.
  • 28.
  • 29.
  • 30.
  • 31.
  • 32.
  • 33.
  • 34. Figure 40–18 A cutaway of a typical starter motor.
  • 35.
  • 36.
  • 37. In the past, it was common to see service technicians hitting a starter in their effort to diagnose a no-crank condition. Often the shock of the blow to the starter aligned or moved the brushes, armature, and bushings. Many times, the starter functioned after being hit—even if only for a short time. However, most of today’s starters use permanent - magnet fields, and the magnets can be easily broken if hit. A magnet that is broken becomes two weaker magnets. Some early PM starters used magnets that were glued or bonded to the field housing. If struck with a heavy tool, the magnets could be broken, with parts of the magnet falling onto the armature and into the bearing pockets, making the starter impossible to repair or rebuild. Don’t Hit That Starter!
  • 38.
  • 39. Figure 40–20 Many gear-reduction starters use a planetary gear-reduction assembly similar to that used in an automatic transmission.
  • 40.
  • 41.
  • 42.
  • 43.
  • 44.
  • 45.
  • 46.
  • 47.
  • 48.
  • 49.
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  • 51.
  • 52.
  • 53.
  • 54.
  • 55.
  • 56.
  • 57.
  • 58.
  • 59.
  • 60. Figure 40–27 Voltmeter hookups for voltage-drop testing of a GM-type cranking circuit. Continued
  • 61. Figure 40–28 Voltmeter hookups for voltage-drop testing of a Ford-type cranking circuit. Continued
  • 62. Figure 40–29 To test the voltage drop of the battery cable connection, place one voltmeter lead on the battery terminal and the other voltmeter lead on the cable end and crank the engine. The voltmeter will read the difference in voltage between the two leads which should not exceed 0.2 volt (200 mV). NOTE: Before a difference in voltage (voltage drop) can be measured between the ends of a battery cable, current must be flowing through the cable. Resistance is not effective unless current is flowin g. If the engine is not being cranked, current is not flowing through the battery cables and the voltage drop cannot be measured.
  • 63.
  • 64.
  • 65.
  • 66.
  • 67. Figure 40–30 GM solenoid ohmmeter check. The reading between 1 and 3 (S terminal and ground) should be 0.4 to 0.6 ohm (hold-in winding). The reading between 1 and 2 (S terminal and M terminal) should be 0.2 to 0.4 ohm (pull-in winding). If a starter is inoperative, check for voltage at the S ( start ) terminal of the starter solenoid. Some newer models with antitheft controls use a relay to open this control circuit to prevent starter operation. See Figure 40–31 for a starter system diagnostic chart. Continued
  • 68. Figure 40–31 Starter trouble diagnostic chart. See the chart on Page 429 of your textbook.
  • 69.
  • 70.
  • 71.
  • 72.
  • 73.
  • 74. Figure 40–33 Before disassembly of any starter, mark the location of the through bolts on the field housing. This makes reassembly easier. Continued
  • 75. Figure 40–34 Removing the solenoid from the starter on a GM-type starter assembly. Continued
  • 76. Figure 40–35 Rotate the solenoid to remove it from the starter housing. ( Caution: The plunger return spring exerts a force on the solenoid and may cause injury if not carefully released. Continued
  • 77. Figure 40–36 The brushes should be replaced if worn to less than 50% of their original length. Replace if less than 1/2-inch long (13 millimeters). Continued
  • 78. Figure 40–37 An exploded view of a General Motors starter. Continued
  • 79. Figure 40–38 To replace the starter drive unit, the retainer and clip must be removed from the armature shaft. A box-end wrench and a hammer can pop the retainer off of the spring clip.
  • 80.
  • 81.
  • 82.
  • 83. Figure 40–40 Replacement starter brushes should be installed so the beveled edge matches the rotation of the commutator. Continued
  • 84.
  • 85.
  • 86.
  • 87.
  • 88.
  • 89. Continued Many GM starters use shims (thin metal strips) between the flywheel and the engine block mounting pad to provide the proper clearance. NOTE: Be sure that the locking nuts for the studs are tight. Often the retaining nut that holds the wire to the stud will be properly tightened, but if the stud itself is loose, cranking problems can occur. NOTE: Some manufacturers use shims under starter drive-end housings during production. Other manufacturers grind the mounting pads at the factory for proper starter pinion gear clearance. If any GM starter is replaced, the starter pinion must be checked and corrected as necessary to prevent starter damage and excessive noise.
  • 90.
  • 91. CAUTION: Be sure to install all factory heat shields to help ensure proper starter operation under all weather and driving conditions. NOTE: The major cause of broken drive-end housings on starters is too small a clearance. If the clearance cannot be measured, it is better to put a shim between the engine block and the starter than to leave one out and risk breaking a drive-end housing.
  • 92.
  • 93. Connect a starting-charging-testing unit to a vehicle. Instead of connecting the ampere probe around the positive cable, connect it around the ground cable (all cables should be within the ampere probe if more than one ground cable is connected to the battery terminal). All ammeter readings should be the same if taken on the positive or negative cables of the battery. Ground Wire Current Flow - Part 2 NOTE: Most starting-charging-testing units use an arrow on the ammeter probe to show polarity. Reversing the direction in which the arrow points is often necessary to read the correct polarity (positive or negative) on the tester display.
  • 94. Most General Motors starter motors use a pad mount and attach to the engine with bolts through the drive-end (nose) housing. Many times when a starter is replaced on a GM vehicle, the starter makes noise because of improper starter pinion-to-engine flywheel ring gear clearance. Instead of spending a lot of time shimming the new starter, simply remove the drive-end housing from the original starter and install it on the replacement starter. Because the original starter did not produce excessive gear engagement noise, the replacement starter should also be okay. Reuse any shims that were used with the original starter. This method is better than having to remove and reinstall the replacement starter several times until the proper clearance is determined. Reuse Drive-End Housings to Be Sure
  • 95. STARTING SYSTEM TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE See the chart on Page 432 of your textbook.
  • 96.
  • 97.
  • 98.
  • 99.
  • 100.
  • 101.
  • 102. end