1. Workshop
on
Fabrics Manufacturing Technology
Engineer Lutfor Rahman Shanzid
M.Sc. In Environment (IUB)
B.Sc. In Textile (AUST)
Mobile : +88 01718 33 18 56
lutfor.shanzid@gmail.com
Bangladesh

2. Contents
• Definition of different terms of Textile
• Weaving sequences
• Weaving motions
• Weaving calculation
• Knitting machines
• Knit products
• Knitting elements
• Knit structures
• Knitting calculation
Sunday, June 15, 2014 2

3. Definition
• Textile
• Fabric
• Woven
• Knit
• Common error
Sunday, June 15, 2014 3

4. FLOW CHART OF WEAVING
Yarn
(In the form of spinner’s package)
Warp Preparation Weft Preparation
Winding (cone, cheese) Winding (Cop, Pirn,
Cone, Cheese)
Warping (Pre beam/ Warper’s
beam/ back beam) Weaving (Fabric)
Sizing (weavers beam)
Drafting, Drawing, Pinning
Denting, Looming
Weaving (Fabric)
Sunday, June 15, 2014 4

5. Sunday, June 15, 2014 5

6. yarn package
Cone Flange bobbin Cheese
Sunday, June 15, 2014 6

7. WARPING
a) Direct/ high speed warping
b) Sectional warping
Sunday, June 15, 2014 7

8. Sunday, June 15, 2014 8

9. Sectional warping
Sunday, June 15, 2014 9

10. LOOM MOTION
Primary Motion Secondary Motion Tertiary Motion
Primary motion
1Shedding:
(Tappet
(Dobby.
(Jacquard.
2Picking:
(Over pick
(Under pick.
(Modern pick.
3Beating:
(Single
(Multiple
(Variable.
Secondary Motion
1. Take up
a) Positive
b) Negative.
2. Let off
a) Positive
b) Negative.
(5 wheel, 7 wheel)
Tertiary Motion
1 Warp stop motion
2 Weft stop motion (Centre, side)
3 Reed stop motion (Loose, fast)
4 Temple motion (Roller, reed)
5 Weft replenish
Sunday, June 15, 2014 10

11. Knitting
warp weft
Sunday, June 15, 2014 11

12. • Wale: Vertical column of needle loop.
• Course: Horizontal row of needle loop.
Stitch Density: Wales per Inch × Course per Inch.
Stitch length: Needle loop + Sinker loop
•Extended sinker loop
Face loop
• Back loop
Independent Needle
Needle:
United Needle
Knitting M/C: there are three types of knitting M/C –
1. Warp knitting: Gives vertical movement of yarn.
2. Weft knitting: Gives horizontal movement of yarn.
3. Other loop forming and combined M/C: Tri-axial.
Sunday, June 15, 2014 12

13.  Needle Carrier: Which carries needle.
 Number of Feed System: The number of
feeder by course.
 Working Diameter: In circular knitting m/c, the
distance from one needle exact to the other
needle is known as working dia.
 Working Width: In flat knitting m/c, the distance from first needle to the last needle is
known as working width.
 Gauge: Number of needle per inch.
 Pitch: The distance the center from one needle to the center of another needle is known
as pitch.
There Are Three Types Of Knitted Fabric
1. Selvage fabric
2. Cut edge fabric
3. Tubular fabric
Sunday, June 15, 2014 13

14. MECHANICAL PRINCIPAL OF KNITTING TECHNOLOGY
Basic Elements of Knitting
1. Needle
2. Sinker
3. Cam
1. NEEDLE: There are various types of needle are available in market
which can be divided in the following group.
a. Spring Bearded Needle
b. Latch Needle
c. Compound Needle
Sunday, June 15, 2014 14

15. Sunday, June 15, 2014 15

16. Sunday, June 15, 2014 16

17. SINKER
Sunday, June 15, 2014 17

18. FUNCTION OF SINKER
There are three function of sinker.
1. Loop formation
2. Holding down
3. Knocking over
1. Loop Formation: On bearded needle weft knitting machines of straight bar frame and
sinker wheel type, the loop forming action is performed. The purpose of a sinker is to kink
the newly laid yarn into loop as its forward edge of advance between two adjoining needle.
2. Holding down Sinker: The second function is hold down the old loop a lower level on the
needle stem, then the new loop which are being formed and prevent to old loops from
being lifted as the needles rise to clear from their hooks.
3. Knocking Over Sinker: The third function of the sinker is to knock over the old loops
on the neck of the new loops.
Sunday, June 15, 2014 18

19. CAM
The knitting cams are hardened steels and they are the assembly of different cam plates so
that a track for butt can be arranged. Each needle movement is obtained by means of cams
acting on the needle butts.
The knitting cams are divided in to three groups. Such as
1. Knit cam
2. Tuck cam
3. Miss cam
Sunday, June 15, 2014 19

20. PRIMARY BASIC
STRUCTURES
Knitting Fabric Structure
1.Plain structure
2.Rib structure
3.Interlock structure
4.Purl structure
Sunday, June 15, 2014 20

21. Knit calculation
• A Single jersey Circular knitting machine, having dia of
30 “, 24 Gauge, 30 RPM, 3 Feeder/inch and yarn count
is 26s. Efficiency is 90%. Calculate the production per
day in kg?
•
• Solution:
• Here,
• Total no. of Feeder = Feeder per inch × Machine Dia
• Total no. of needle= 𝜋DG
• SL=2.2 mm
• So,
•
=
Sunday, June 15, 2014 21

22. Thanks to all
Sunday, June 15, 2014 22