1. International Indexed & Referred Research Journal, April, 2012. ISSN- 0975-3486, RNI-RAJBIL 2009/30097;VoL.III *ISSUE-31
Research Paper—Fashion & Textile Technology
Simulation of Designs of Gota Work
of Rajasthan
April, 2012 * Prof Radha Kashyap **Ms Sulekha Ojha
* Head, **Asst. Prof. Dept. of Fashion & Textile Technology, The IIS University, Jaipur
A B S T R A C T
Indian embroidery has been synonymous with the traditional fabric embellishment. The present study is an attempt to explore the
Gota work motifs of Rajasthan and develop contemporary designs through CorelDraw. The modern technique aims at simulation
of motifs of gota work documented through books and museum. The manual method of designing is tedious, consumes lots of time
and laborious as compared to CorelDraw, which has more advantage in respect to speed, pattern creations, editing and repeating
the motifs which will be beneficiary to the artisans, designers and people associated in the field of Fashion & Textile.
Keywords: Gota work, CorelDraw, Simulation, Designing, Rajasthan.
Introduction: Types of Gota:
Indian culture and its rich heritage are re- Various types of gota are sikhiyagota,
flected in costumes and embroideries of various re- chaumasa, panchmasa, athmasa, lappa, thappa,
gions of the country. Today designers and artist picks gokhru, lehrugotta, nakshi, bijbel, bijiya, chiru, kiran,
up motifs from traditional designs and incorporate chatai and chip gotta. Previously gota was available in
them in weaves, embroideries and color ways based on silver and gold color but now it is available in red,
market demand. However, there is no doubt that styl- orange, pink, magenta, maroon and yellow etc.
ized version of ancient designs enjoying new impetus Motifs: The popular design elements are flowers,
with an ever increasing demand for traditional forms. leaves, stylized mango motifs, heart shapes and check-
These days fashion trends are fragile and consumer erboard patterns. Animal figures, like the parrot, pea-
constantly demands innovative designs (Naik, 1997). cock and elephant are some of the folk motifs. The gota
Gota work: This style of embroidery starts with the is embroidered on to the cloth with the help of a dori
Mughals and spreaded to the courts of Jaipur and Jodh- or thread.
pur. The embroiderers of Jaipur, Bikaner, Ajmer, Computer Aided Designing:
Udaipur and Kota are world famous for their uniquely Computer Aided Designing has not only ex-
styled gota work. Gota lacing is generally done on panded the horizon of designing but also created the
odhni and turban edges. Traditional articles like kurti, facility to craft any number of designs that could be
kaanchli, sari, lehanga, poshaak, dress for idols are saved in the library to apply, as and when required.
adorned with Gota work. CAD system is more advantageous with respect to
Gota is a band of gold or silver ribbon of that speed, pattern creation, editing, repeating, flexibility,
varies with width, woven in a satin weave. In real gota, variety, color-ways and cost effectiveness. There is
silver & gold metals are used. Traditionally Gota was great accuracy in designing and repetition and place-
a narrow ribbon with Badla sheets forming the warp ment of the motif can be done quickly which reduces
and silk or cotton thread as the weft. Badla was pre- the time period.
pared by mixing 100grams of silver 10 grams of gold, The conventional method of designing is tedious, time
hammering the mixture into thin sheets and cutting consuming and laborious. The modern technique aims
into very fine strips. But in routine, the base metal is at simulation of conceived designing onto the monitor
copper, coated by silver etc(Shrikant,1998). and this help in better visualisation of wide spectrum
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2. International Indexed & Referred Research Journal, April, 2012. ISSN- 0975-3486, RNI-RAJBIL 2009/30097;VoL.III *ISSUE-31
of designs. The possibilities of designing are endless
with the introduction of CAD. It plays a vital role in
facilitating the creations of new designs and improv-
ing existing designs. (Bogart, 2003).
The present study was undertaken to document the
traditional motifs and design of gota work and to
simulate innovative designs with the help of Com-
puter Aided Designing.
Creation of Motifs:
The traditional motif is defined as one which
passes from generations and is inspired by the flora
and fauna of nature. They can classified into butis, jaal
and border. Creative designing is the process where
the designer plays with the arrangement of line, form
and colour to create beauty to the end product.
The locale of the study was Jaipur. The motifs were
documented from museum, books and libraries. An
inspiration from traditional gota work motifs, innova-
tive designs were stylised from butis, jaals and borders
through CorelDraw software.
The flow chart used for designing of the selected
motifs
Coreldraw

Start Design 1

Open file menu

Import the motif from folder

Select the pen tool from the tool menu

Select image outline
 Design 2
Shape the motif

Create the innovative motif

Set the motif for the layout of the design

Repeat the step

Save the file Design 3
Simulation Of Design Through Coreldraw
Conventional Motifs Digitised Motifs
Jaal designs are one which are interconnected vines
sometimes directional but mostly non-directional all
over in the pattern of laced floral butis, leaves and
tendrils.
Border design: A border design is one which is fo-
cussed on the selvedge with ground extending to other
selvedge. It varies according to the width of the design Design 4
RESEARCH AN ALYSI S AND EVALU ATION
77

3. International Indexed & Referred Research Journal, April, 2012. ISSN- 0975-3486, RNI-RAJBIL 2009/30097;VoL.III *ISSUE-31
Design 5
Design 8
Design 6
Butis: Butis are single motifs which can be placed in
different repeats and layouts. Butas are larger than Design 9
butis
Conclusion :
The exploration and documentation of rich
traditional embroidery of Rajasthan has given a new
way to discover contemporaries to the designs which
are already in the rich Indian cultural heritage. It would
not be wrong to conclude that such a study would
definitely help to preserve the traditional embroidery
of Rajasthan along with contemporisation and conser-
vation of the art which is the need of the hour. Such
studies would further help to popularize and inspire
others to preserve the traditional, cultural and aes-
thetic skills.
Design 7
R E F E R E N C E
1.Bogart,W.(2003).New Development in CAD for the Fashion,
,Designer,www.designer.com Knowledge, Vol.7(1), 197-203
2. Naik & Vastrad (2008). Protection and Revival of Traditional hand 3. Shrikant, U., (1998). Ethnic Embroidery of India part II, Samata
Embroidery, Kasuti by automation, Indian Journal of Traditional Enterprises, Mumbai, 129.
78 RESEARCH AN ALYSI S AND EVALU ATION