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TE TILEX
VALUE CHAIN
JANUARY 2018 Volume 6 Issue 1
Registered with Registrar of Newspapers under | RNI NO: MAHENG/2012/43707
Postal Registration No. MNE/346/2018-20 published on 5th of every month,
TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN posted at Mumbai, Patrika Channel Sorting Office,Pantnagar, Ghatkopar-400075,
posting date 12/13 of month | Pages 48
v Interview: ITEMA Weaving / Alidhara Weavetech
v Market Report : Export Yarn / EU Market Study / Marriage Muharat
v SUSTAINABLE FIBRE : Himalayan Nettle
v Show Report : ITMACH 2017 / HEIMTEXTILE 2018
v TECHNICAL ARTICLE : Electrochemical Processing -an eco friendly Technology in Textile
TEMPLE RINGS/ROLLERS
YEARS
India's
Leading
Manufacturer
 Exporter of
Picanol/Dornier/Vamatex/Sulzer/SometGRIPPERS RAPIER TAPES Picanol/Dornier/Vamatex/Sulzer/Somet
Torrey Twister
TEMPLES
7
www.textilevaluechain.comJune 2017
Textile Agent
317, Cosmos Platinum, 3rd Floor, Gokhale Road (south), Dadar (west),Mumbai – 400028.
Ph:- 24301555/24361555/24371555
Email : - rmking555@gmail.com
Parekh Agencies
Parekh Associates
Garment Agent
40,Bhangwadi Shopping Arcade, 1st Floor, Kalbadevi Road,Mumbai - 400 002, Maharashtra, INDIA
Tel : +91-22-2201 1111 / 2205 5555 / 2207 3555
Email : txking555@gmail.com
Mr. Shailesh Parekh - M: 9820055506
Mr. Ritesh Shah - M: 9320055506 / 9820629406
Mr. Arpit Jain - M: 9324488888
Mr. Ketan Dattani - M: 9820186888
Mr. Ashish Niwate - M: 9820456445
Mr. Rajan Parekh - M: 9930955506
9www.textilevaluechain.comJanuary 2018
INTERVIEW
Christian Straubhaar started his career in 1998 in the
USA as Quality Manager at Altech Corporation.
In 2000 he came back to his native Country, Switzerland,
to start his career in textile companies with the appoint-
ment of Leader Organization Manager at Rhodia Industri-
al Yarns. Starting from 2002, Mr Straubhaar was promot-
ed to Plant Manager position for the polyamide company
branch based in Poland.
Rhodia promoted in 2003 Mr Straubhaar as Market Man-
ager with worldwide responsibility for sales and market-
ing of fibres and monofilaments produced respectively in
Germany and Poland. Based in Germany, Mr Straubhaar
was in charge of an area sales managers team in Asia-
Pacific, North America and Europe.
In 2007 Rhodia entrusted him as investor manager for
the LBO (leveraged buyout) operations for the new entity
Nexis Fibres AG.
Mr Straubhaar joined Itema Group in 2008 as Head of
Profit Center for the Swiss branch of the Company. His
career in Itema evolved in 2013 with the appointment as
COO for Itema Switzerland and in 2015 with the nomina-
tion as Spare Parts Business Unit Director.
In 2016 Mr Straubhaar was appointed Group Sales 
Marketing Director in charge of weaving machines, spare
parts and product management departments.
• What inspired you to Start A Company in Textile
Machinery and what is Purpose behind it?
Everything started in 1967, when the Company Somet was
founded in Italy in one of the main textile cradles of the
country to provide weaving machines to the numerous
weavers based in the area. Since then, the founder (the
Radici family, one of the most renowned Italian entre-
preneurs) proceeded over the years with a series of suc-
cessful mergers
and acquisitions,
namely Vamatex
and Sulzer, till to
become the big-
gest weaving ma-
chines manufac-
turer in the world.
In 2012, the Itema
brand was born
to put together
the best of know-
how and excellence of the three historic companies that
today represent the foundations of Itema.
• In which countries/continents do you focus on for
exports? What are the reasons behind this choice?
Our machines are exported to about 50 countries every
year. We provide looms, original spare parts and best-in-
class after-sales service to all the textile markets in the
world, from African countries to Japan, South Korea, USA,
El Salvador, Guatemala passing through the largest tex-
tile markets such as China, India, Pakistan, Bangladesh
and Turkey. Wherever there is a weaver, Itema is ready
to serve him.
• What motivated you to enter into the Indian
market?
In India the fabric production is traditionally one of the
main business areas. Historically, since Somet, Vamatex
and Sulzer times, we are providing looms to the Indian
weavers. In 2003 we decided to invest in the country and
we set up our own organization, Itema India Pvt. Ltd.,
which today features more than 50 skilled and trained
employees based in 4 different locations (Mumbai, Coim-
batore, New Dehli, Kolhapur).
• What do you think sets apart your machineries over
that of your competitors?
The Itema weaving machines are designed, developed
and produced to be a tool in the hands of the weavers.
Our machines feature the most user-friendly electronic
platform that through a full color touch-screen console
provides all the machine parameters at your fingertips.
Each device is studied to guarantee ease of use and quick
settings. Moreover, I would like to underline two main as-
pects that our Customers recognize to the Itema weaving
machines: first, we have the highest textile versatility and
fabric quality compared to competition and second, our
ITEMA A Weaving Solution Always A Step Ahead
Exclusive Interview with Mr Christian Straubhaar – Itema Group Sales and Marketing
Director  Ms. Valentina Brignoli- Marketing  Communication Manager
www.textilevaluechain.com10 January 2018
looms are the most compact in the market providing a
valuable space saving in the mill layout.
• Do you find any difference between the Indian
market and the rest of the global market?
The Indian textile market is nowadays at the highest levels
and some of the largest textile conglomerates are actu-
ally based in India. Ofcourse in India the textile industry
is divided into different segments that differ a lot from
each other. The organized corporate segment is made by
structured companies looking for the best equipment in
the market to compete at the highest levels in the interna-
tional market. Whilst the non-organized segment features
medium and small companies (that actually compared to
the worldwide textile mills size are not even so small…)
with a huge growth potential if ready change the mindset
and look for advanced technology instead of investing in
old, second-hand machineries.
• What all Challenges / Hardship you faced during the
journey?
Every day presents a new challenge as we constantly strive
towards satisfying our customers not just 100% but 110%.
The textile machinery market in which we operate is sub-
ject to sudden oscillations provoked by multiple factors
such as political instability, raw materials crisis or contin-
gent economic situation that afflicts the market demand.
What we do as a Company to face this volatile environ-
ment is to build a solid and trusted Customer base in the
market and to constantly invest in internal improvements
to rely on a flexible and agile organization.
• Did you face any operational challenges?
If we look back at the past year focusing on India we can
say that yes, we had a few challenges to face. Indian mar-
ket faced some issues due to demonetization and GST
introduction and we experienced a slowdown at the be-
ginning of 2017 due to the introduction of the new regu-
lations. Indian entrepreneurs found in any case the best
way to deal with these events and we were close to them
to support and find the best business solution. The situa-
tion for us is today stable in India, investments are going
on and we are satisfied about the results we obtained.
• Could you tell us more about the Green Label
certification that your company has received?
We are a part of the Sustainable Technologies Providers
programme of ACIMIT which is the Italian textile machin-
ery association. The association was the very first in the
world to establish such a programmed to encourage tex-
tile machinery makers to promote their most sustainable
technology offerings, adhering to very strict standards of
certification related to emission of machines. The pro-
gramme and the Green Label are managed by a third-
party independent auditor and verifier, DNV, which con-
ducts specific tests and evaluate companies in terms of
different parameters, including power consumption. So,
the Green Label certification is provided only if a company
is able to meet these stringent parameters. The certifica-
tion is very important for us, as we are working towards
sustainable developments.
• So, this certification applies only in Italy or is it
globally applicable?
The certification, although issued in Italy, is valid for the
specific certified products and is applicable worldwide.
This way a customer who takes very seriously the envi-
ronmental footprint of acquired technology can be rest
assured that a Green Label certified machine has the ex-
act green credentials he or she is looking for.
• What is your take on the future scenario of your
segment in the global market?
Today we have positive feelings about the future trend of
the textile machinery industry and we expect 2018 to be
another quite good year for the sector. We foresee stable
investments in all the main textile countries and in India
we are involved in big, important investment projects that
will be finalized during 2018.
• What is your review towards the ITMACH 2017
We are participating at ITMACH with one of the biggest
stands in the hall and our airjet weaving machine A9500p
on display to show our huge potential and our technical
superiority to the Gujarat textile industry, which is one of
the main here in India. Moreover, we expect to meet our
Surat Customers, where we have an optimal and strong
presence. I think that this exhibition has its main value
in offering to companies the possibility to display their
products exactly where prospects and Customers are.
• What are your future plans?
Itema is working to provide the market with advanced
weaving solutions and we will continue on this path to be
always a step ahead. With a clear mission in mind: our
Customers need looms to weave fabric and, if they are
looking to offer to their market the best possible fabric
quality, Itema is the right partner and supplier.
INTERVIEW
11www.textilevaluechain.comJanuary 2018
JANUARY 2018 ISSUE
CONTENT
Advertiser Index
INTERVIEW
9- Mr. Christian Straubhaar and Ms. Valentina Brignoli,
ITEMA Weaving
39- Mr. Chintan Thumar, Alidhara Weatech Group
MARKET REPORT
13- Export Yarn Report
14- Domestic Yarn / Cotton Report
15- Marriage Muharat 2018
16- EU Market Report by Textile Committee
17- Top Importing Products of EU from Extra-EU ($ millions)
18- Top Exporters To EU
(EXTRA  INTRA) DURING APR-JULY 2017 ($BN)
18- Performance of China and India in EU’s top imported
products from Extra-EU ($ millions)
41- Fashion Tips
34- Export of articles of apparel and clothing accessories
major countries
35- Export of textile items to ASEAN countries
SUSTAINABLE FIBRE
19- Clothing from Himalayan Nettle Fibre
POST SHOW REPORT
22- ITMACH 2017
23- HEIMTEXTIL 2018
TECHNICAL ARTICLE
24- Electrochemical Processing -an eco friendly Technology in
Textile by Professors of SVVV
ASSOCIATION NEWS
28- AEPC
29- CITI
30- SRTEPC
32 REVIEW OF TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN
NEWS
21- Colorant Ltd., sponsors SDC Technical Seminar held
at Bangalore
27- Karl Mayer creates niche in the Ichalkaranji Market
31- Women apparel brand Shree growing in double digits
by using Liva fabric
31- Applied DNA Sciences Expands Internationally with
New Central DNA Testing Laboratory in India
33- Asian convergence once more at Screen Print India show
34- HM Apologises After Severe Backlash Over Racist
‘Coolest Monkey In The Jungle’ Ad Campaign
36- Anamika Khanna To Reinvent Nudes At LFW
36- BIBA Launches ‘BIBA Ready-To-Stitch Collection’
Exclusively On Amazon.in
37- SHOW CALENDAR
EDITORIAL TEAM
Editor and Publisher
Ms. Jigna Shah
Graphic Designer
Mr. Anant A. Jogale
Sales Manager
Mr. Md. Tanweer
Chief Editor
Mr. Bhavesh Thakar
Editorial Assistant
Mrs. Namsha
INDUSTRY
Mr. Devchand Chheda
City Editor - Vyapar ( Janmabhumi Group)
Mr. Manohar Samuel
President, Birla Cellulose, Grasim Industries
Dr. M. K. Talukdar
VP, Kusumgar Corporates
Mr. Shailendra Pandey
VP (Head – Sales and Marketing), Indian Rayon
Mr. Ajay Sharma
GM RSWM (LNJ Bhilwara Group)
Mr. Avinash Mayekar
Consulting Editor
EDUCATION / RESEARCH
Mr. B.V. Doctor
HOD knitting, SASMIRA
Dr. Ela Dedhia
Associate Professor, Nirmala Niketan College
Dr. Mangesh D. Teli
Professor, Dean ICT
Dr. S.K. Chattopadhyay
Principal Scientist and Head MPD
Dr. Rajan Nachane
Retired Scientist, CIRCOT
Back Page: Raymond
Back Inside: Silverline Fashion
Front Inside: Raysil
Page 3: Pranera Textiles
Page 4: Linen Fiesta
Page 5: SGS Innovation
Page 6: Sanjay Plastic
Page 7: Bajaj Fab
Page 8: Parekh Agencies
Page 35: Kenny Fabrics
Page 42: GTTES 2019
Page 43: Devshree Fabrics
Page 44: SKBS
Page 45: Vora Associate
Nilesh Textiles
Page 46: RSWM
www.textilevaluechain.com12 January 2018
EDITORIAL
Ms. Jigna Shah
Editor and Publisher
All rights reserved Worldwide; Reproduction of
any of the content from this issue is prohibited
without explicit written permission of the
publisher. Every effort has been made to ensure
and present factual and accurate information.
The views expressed in the articles published in
this magazine are that of the respective authors
and not necessarily that of the publisher. Textile
Value chain is not responsible for any unlikely
errors that might occur or any steps taken
based in the information provided herewith.
Registered Office
Innovative Media and Information Co.
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Web: www.textilevaluechain.com
Owner, Publisher, Printer and
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Ms. Jigna Shah
Printed and Processed by her at,
Impression Graphics,
Gala no.13, Shivai Industrial Estate,
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Maharashtra, India.
ASEAN Indian Relationship…
Recently Textiles Minister Smriti Irani observed the fact that India has potential to become the one-stop
sourcing destination for brands and retailers from ASEAN countries, as opportunities exist for textile manufac-
turers from the 10-nation block to invest here and cater to the domestic market as well as exports. ASEAN (Asso-
ciation of Southeast Asian Nations) is a multilateral body whose member countries include Thailand, Indonesia,
Singapore, Brunei, Laos, Myanmar, Cambodia, Malaysia, Philippines and Vietnam.
India has strength and ability to produce a diverse range of products and export almost all kinds of
textiles and apparel including all handloom and handicraft products that demonstrate the unique skill of the
country’s weavers and artisans. In the year 2016, India exported textiles and apparel worth USD 1,203 million to
ASEAN and imported textiles and apparel worth USD 546 million from ASEAN. India-ASEAN relations can forge to
ensure that we can give better manufacturing opportunities, better wage opportunities and also help strength-
ening our legacies in textiles.
TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN Magazine is celebrating 5th Anniversary with this issue. We would like to thank all
our stakeholders like Subscribers, Advertisers, Suppliers, Well wishers, Friends, Authors / Article Contributors
and many more. Without their positive support, the journey would never have been such wonderful and pleas-
ant...!!! This Journey will continue with lot of innovation, creativity and meaningful association with everyone in
time to come..!!!
Wish you a Productive Budgeting Period..!!!
13www.textilevaluechain.comJanuary 2018
Exports of cotton fail to pick, yarn lingers in December
Cotton exportsdeclined in December with shipment of
1.4 million bales (170 kg each) as against 1.6 million bales
exported a year ago in a situation where marketactivity
was disrupted by demonetisation of high currency notes.
The slowdown this year appears to have been played by
rising prices in domestic market and lower than expected
harvest due to pink pest attack in major cotton growing
regions. Contracts are cancelled to take advantage of rac-
ing domestic prices in a period when prices do not tend
to rise generally. Thus, the first three months of 2017-18
cotton marketing year, recorded shipment of 2.11 million
bales as against 2.16 million bales in the corresponding
months of previous year.
It also suggests that the cost of cancellation of contracts
is much lower than the returns in selling in domestic
market. The price realization averaged INR 106 a kg or
US cents 75.54 per pound in December as against the
Cotlook Index ‘A’ averaging at 88.50 per pound and spot
Shankar-6 at US cents 81.02 per pound for the month.
November had FOB values average US cents 90.68 per
pound US cents 15 higher than local prices. The same re-
versed in December where FOB values were US cents 5
lower than local numbers.
Bangladesh, Vietnam and China were the largest import-
ers of cotton with combined volumes at 1.13 million bales
amongst the 21 countries that imported cotton from In-
dia in December. Shipment to Pakistan more than halved
from 93 thousand bales last December to just 44 thou-
sand bales this month.
New importers this December include Italy, Djibouti, Swit-
zerland, Germany and Congo although small quantities
were exported. No exports were done to these destina-
tions in December 2016.
Among major cotton buyers, Taiwan, Turkey and Singa-
pore substantially reduced their import this December
while a dramatic spurt was seen in shipment
to Mauritius.
Cotton yarn exports linger, polyester yarn
surges
Spun yarn including cotton yarn exports
edged down in December, but higher price
realization pegged values in US$ term up
4.4%. Export totaled 126 million kg during the
month, down 1.4% year on year worth US$
375 million. Unit value realization averaged
US$ 2.96 per kgup US cents 2 from previous
month, and US cents 17up compared to last
year. Meanwhile the INR appreciated from
INR 67 to INR 64 this year. Yarn exports to
the largest buyer, China declined 20% both in
terms of volume and value during December.
It still accounted for 32% of all yarn shipped during the
month. A year ago, the share was close to 37%.
Cotton yarn export at 104 million kg worth US$ 312mil-
lion (INR 1,990 crore) was down 3.5% in November as
75 countries imported yarn at an average unit price re-
alization of US$ 3.01a kg, US cents 3more than previous
month and US cents 16 higher than last year
China continued to cut its import of cotton yarn from In-
dia by 4% in November and further by 18% in December
in value terms, but still accounted for 35% of total ship-
ment during December followed by Bangladesh and Pa-
kistan.16 countries did not import any cotton yarn from
India as they did last December. They were replaced
by 11other countries which imported yarn worth US$
1.75million.
Kenya, Syria, Czech Republic, Vietnam and Italy were
among the fastest growing large markets for cotton yarn
in December while Indonesia, USA and Brazil reduced
their import significantly compared to last year.
100% man-made fibre yarns export also moderated in
volume but higher price realisation more than compen-
sated the loss in December.MMF yarnscomprised 4.2mil-
lion kg of polyester yarn, 1.7 million kg of viscose yarn
and 1.6 million kg of acrylic yarn. Polyester yarn exports
jumped 23% in value while viscose yarn exports value de-
clined 11% during the month. Acrylic yarn exports inched
up 1.5% while volumes jumped 13% at lower price realiza-
tion.
Polyester spun yarns were exported to 49 countries at
average unit price realization of US$ 2.39 a kg. Turkey re-
mained the largest importer of polyester yarn, followed
by Brazil and USA.
Source: Fibre to Yarn Export Statistics – India report of
December 2017
EXPORT YARN REPORT
www.textilevaluechain.com14 January 2018
Fibre to yarn pricing trend in December
Cotton
Cotton prices in India continued to surge in December de-
spite the usual peak marketing season. Spot prices were
up INR 1,490-5,015 per candy during the month, with
benchmark
S h a n k a r - 6
traded at
INR 39,925
per candy
on an aver-
age. Daily
arrivals were
restricted to
around 1.50-
2 . 0 0 l a k h
bales in
a month
where they usually touch 3.00 lakh bales. This was push-
ing millers into panic buying as framers were holding crop
back in anticipation of a price boost later. Also crop pro-
duction is likely to be smaller than expected due to pest
attack in major cotton growing state of Maharashtra.
Outside India, global spot benchmark, Cotlook A index 8%
or US cents 6.50 to notch a seven-month high at US cents
87.20 per pound.
US Cotton futures on the ICE also hovered close to seven-
month highs as sustained speculative demand helped
March contract gain for nine straight weeks. Cotton con-
tracts for March averaged US cents 76.70 per pound after
matching all-time high for the contract at US cents 78.07
per pound in the first half of December. The surge was
due to combination of spec and trade buying continued
to chase values higher, expert stated also adding that the
current bull run had little to do with cotton availability,
but was more to the result of mills having accumulated a
record amount of unfixed on-call sales.
In China, spot cotton market showed some improvement
on the back of the surge in imports, but prices remained
slightly low. Xinjiang-origin grade-3128 cotton in Henan
were quoted at 15.60-15.70 Yuan per metric ton (US cents
108 per pound). Meanwhile, the China Cotton Index mod-
erated 174 Yuan to 15,764 Yuan per metric ton.
In Pakistan, buyers sought all grades of cotton during
December which kept physical prices firm and forward
deals fortified their long positions. The KCA rate gained
PakRs 412 at PakRs 7,057 per maund. Meanwhile, cotton
imports from India was delayed due to procedural delays
and issuance of permits that are valid from 1 January, cot-
ton import will take off then.
Cotton Yarn
Cotton yarn markets were active in India and Pakistan
where prices jumped on support of firming cotton while
in China they were slightly weak in amid moderating
transactions. Cotton yarn 16s was offered at 15.25 Yuan a
kg (US$ 2.32 a kg) and 32s at 23.11 Yuan a kg (US$ 3.51 a
kg) in Shengze. In Pakistan, cotton yarn prices began mov-
ing up sharply on the domestic market, due to fresh surge
in cotton cost week after week. Cotton import prices
also increased sharply due to the surge of international
prices and the fall of the PakRe. In Faisalabad, 32s cotton
combed yarn rose PakRs 4 to PakRs 143-158 per pound
(US$ 2.19-3.15 a kg, down US cents 3-4 due to weak Pa-
kRe). In India, 30s combed cotton yarn for knitting were at
INR 191.75 a kg (US$ 2.99 a kg, up US cents 3) while export
offers jumped US cents 8 to US$ 3.07 a kg.
Polyester
P o l y e s t e r
staple fibre
prices edged
down in Chi-
na, rose in
Pakistan and
India during
December.
U p s t r e a m
PTA cost was
seen moder-
ating later in
the month
while MEG
remained firm at higher level. In China, PSF offers fell but
strong currency negated the moderation. In Jiangsu and
Zhejiang, offers for 1.4D direct-melt PSF were at US$ 1.33-
1.36 a kg. PSF market in India moved sideways with side-
linedstance and offers averaged INR 90.25 a kg for 1.2D
or US$ 1.41 a kg and 1.4-2D at INR 93.50 a kg (US$ 1.46 a
kg). In Pakistan, producers lifted offers while weaker Pa-
kRe made imports costlier. 1.4D PSF prices were at PakRs
.140-142 a kg (US$ 1.28-1.30 a kg, down US cent 1 due to
weak currency), while import prices were up at US$ 1.18
a kg, CNF Karachi.
Polyester yarn prices were down across India, Pakistan
and China during December, irrespective of change in
PSF cost. Offers for polyester yarn in China were down US
cents 2-4 in December with 32s at US$ 2.03 a kg while 45s
fell to US$ 2.18 a kg. In India, polyester yarn 30 knit yarn
fell INR 5to INR 139.75 a kg or US$ $2.02 a kg, down US
cents 6 in Ludhiana market.
YARN REPORT
15www.textilevaluechain.comJanuary 2018
Polyester intermediates
Purified terephthalic acid markets after moving higher en-
tering December gradually moved into a weak zone later
in the month as prices remained flat to down in the sec-
ond fortnight and moderated in the week before Christ-
mas Day holiday. Prices could not be swayed away by the
recovery in paraxylene markets. In China, spot PTA prices
were firm as suppliers kept offers for bonded goods and
for nearby-month cargoes unchanged. In US and Europe,
demand for PTA was flat pegging prices stable. Asian PTA
marker, CFR China were 4% or US$ 26 higher in Decem-
ber, due to earlier rise, to US$ 715-717 per ton. In India,
prices were at US$ 740 per ton CIF.
Mono ethylene glycol prices in Asia were up in December
but the hike was moderated by weakening demand from
the downstream industry. MEG spot prices inched up US$
19 on the month with CFR China at US$ 920-925 per ton
and CFR South East Asia to US$ 942-947 per ton. Euro-
pean MEG spot truck prices slipped as markets ended on
a quiet note ahead of Christmas break. Truck spot prices
were assessed at a decrease of Euro 20 at Euro 863 per
ton. In US, MEG prices were stable as there was some de-
mand coming from the de-icing and anti-freeze sectors
due to winter weather.
Auspicious
Marriage Dates
Shubh Vivah
Muhurat
Nakshatra
For Marriage
Tithi
For Marriage
24th
February (Saturday) 06:55 to 30:54+ Rohini, Mrigashirsha Navami, Dashami
01st
March (Thursday) 19:37 to 23:48 Magha Purnima
05th
March (Monday) 20:18 to 30:45+ Swati Chaturthi, Panchami
06th
March (Tuesday) 06:45 to 17:46 Swati Panchami
08th
March (Thursday) 14:47 to 24:45+ Anuradha Saptami
10th
March (Saturday) 10:13 to 18:43 Mula Navami
12th
March (Monday) 11:13 to 20:39 Uttara Ashadha Ekadashi
18th
April (Wednesday) 24:28+ to 29:55+ Rohini Tritiya, Chaturthi
19th
April (Thursday) 05:55 to 12:19 Rohini Chaturthi
23:07 to 29:54+ Mrigashirsha Panchami
20th
April (Friday) 05:54 to 11:12 Mrigashirsha Panchami
24th
April (Tuesday) 21:46 to 29:49+ Magha Dashami
25th
April (Wednesday) 05:49 to 15:06 Magha Dashami, Ekadashi
27th
April (Friday) 14:42 to 29:47+ Hasta Trayodashi
28th
April (Saturday) 05:47 to 13:53 Hasta Trayodashi, Chaturdashi
29th
April (Sunday) 18:29 to 29:45+ Swati Purnima
30th
April (Monday) 05:45 to 10:24 Swati Pratipada
01st
May (Tuesday) 15:57 to 29:43+ Anuradha Dwitiya
04th
May (Friday) 05:42 to 22:33 Mula Chaturthi, Panchami
05th
May (Saturday) 25:34+ to 29:40+ Uttara Ashadha Shashthi
06th
May (Sunday) 05:40 to 15:55 Uttara Ashadha Shashthi
11th
May (Friday) 13:47 to 29:36+ Uttara Bhadrapada Ekadashi, Dwadashi
12th
May (Saturday) 05:36 to 29:35+ Uttara Bhadrapada, Revati Dwadashi, Trayodashi
18th
June (Monday) 05:27 to 26:47+ Magha Panchami, Shashthi
21st
June (Thursday) 05:28 to 25:27+ Hasta Navami
23rd
June (Saturday) 05:28 to 15:32 Swati Ekadashi
25th
June (Monday) 05:29 to 29:29+ Anuradha Trayodashi
27th
June (Wednesday) 21:15 to 29:29+ Mula Purnima
28th
June (Thursday) 05:29 to 12:22 Mula Purnima, Pratipada
05th
July (Thursday) 12:41 to 29:32+ Uttara Bhadrapada Saptami, Ashtami
10th
July (Tuesday) 20:26 to 29:35+ Rohini, Mrigashirsha Trayodashi
11th
July (Wednesday) 05:35 to 15:34 Mrigashirsha Trayodashi
Reference : https://www.drikpanchang.com
MARRAIGE MUHURAT 2018
YARN REPORT
www.textilevaluechain.com16 January 2018
India’s TC Export to EU Market (Apr-Jul’ 2017)
India exported $ 12.30 Bn of TC to the World during Apr-
Jul’ 2017 out of which the export to EU is about $ 3.18 Bn.
The EU contributed about 25.86% to the aggregate export
basket of TC of India and hence played a crucial role for
the country.
It may be noted here that India’s export has declined to
$3.18 Bn from $ 3.20 Bn during the same period of the
previous year. Even if, our TC export to the rest of world
has increased slightly, the decline in export to EU indi-
cates that India may be loosing its presence in this impor-
tant destination to competitors like China, Bangladesh,
Vietnam and Pakistan etc.
y India’s aggregate export of Textiles to EU (HS Chapter
50 to 60) was $ 0.65 billion during Apr-Jul’ 2017, which
is 13.97 percent of India’s total textiles exports to the
world. The export of textiles has experienced a growth
of 3.97% during the period as compared to previous
period.
y India’s aggregate export of Clothing to EU (HS Chapter
61 to 63) was $ 2.53 billion during Apr-Jul’ 2017 which
is 33.07 percent of India’s total clothing exports to the
world. The export of clothing has experienced a nega-
tive growth of 1.49% during the period as compared to
previous period.
y Top 20 Products (whose share is more than 1%) has
contributed 50.02 percent to the export basket in EU
market during Apr-Jul’ 2017.
y The share of these top 20 products was 50.20 percent
in the same period of 2016.
Comments
y India’s export to EU has experienced highest negative
growth (-13.60%) in April, 2017 as compared to the
same period in 2016, but reversed in the subsequent
month.
y The month wise fluctuation of the export from India is
visible in the trend.
y Some of the policy issues like granting New EU GSP
Plus scheme to Pakistan, signing up of FTA by EU with
Vietnam and growing intra EU trade may be influencing
the TC export performance of India.
India’s Top Performing Products in EU market (Apr–
Jul’ 2017)
ƒ The major 8 products have experienced positive growth
in India’s export basket during April–July’ 2017 as com-
pared to the same period during 2016 are as follows
y The export of products like 63053219, 61099020,
52052300 and 61072100 have increased with a growth
of 21.50%, 8.31%, 34.83% and 16.49% respectively;
which is quite promising from the export perspective
of the country.
India’s Top Products having negative growth (Apr–Jul’
2017)
ƒ Major 12 products have experienced negative growth
during April –July’ 2017 as compared to the same pe-
riod during 2016
Table-2
India’s TC Exports to EU (Mn. $)
Fig-1
Change in the exports
Source: Eurostat
Month
April-July
2016 2017
%
Change
April 893.59 772.09 -13.60%
May 779.62 845.53 8.45%
June 783.58 774.19 -1.20%
July 740.63 790.31 6.71%
Apr-July 3197.43 3182.12 -0.48%
-13.60
8.45
-1.20
6.71
April May June July
Table-3: Top performing products of India (Mn.$)
Products Descriptions
Apr-Jul’
2016
Apr-Jul’
2017
%
change
62063000 Women's or girls blouses, shirts of cotton, not knitted 8.2100 114.01 5.37%
63053219
Flexible intermediate bulk containers, for packing of
goods, of polyethylene or polypropylene strips, (excl.
knitted or crocheted)
73.21 88.94 21.50%
62044200 Women's or girls dresses of cotton, not knitted 59.72 63.26 5.93%
62044300
Women's or girls dresses of synthetic fibres , not
knitted
60.51 62.01 2.48%
61099020 T-shirts, singlets of artificial fibres, knitted 48.59 52.63 8.31%
52052300
Single cotton yarn, of combed fibres, containing
=85% cotton by weight
23.90 32.22 34.83%
61071100 Men's or boys underpants and briefs of cotton, knitted .8830 31.56 2.19%
61072100
Men's or boys nightshirts of cotton, knitted or
crocheted
25.94 30.22 16.49%
Total 430.96 474.87 10.19%
Source: Eurostat
62052000 Men's or boys shirts of cotton, not knitted 99.25 93.74 -5.56%
61046200
Women's or girls trousers, bib and brace
overalls of cotton, knitted
74.34 73.29 -1.42%
62044400
Women's or girls dresses of artificial
fibres, not knitted
76.32 60.01 -21.37%
63026000
Toilet linen and kitchen linen, of terry
towelling of cotton
61.36 58.23 -5.11%
61051000
Men's or boys shirts of cotton, knitted or
crocheted
50.39 49.65 -1.47%
61083100
Women's or girls nightdresses of
cotton, knitted
48.86 46.41 -5.01%
62114390
Women’s or girls’ other garments of
manmade fibres, not knitted
49.45 39.34 -20.45%
61044200
Women's or girls' dresses, of cotton,
knitted
36.39 32.61 -10.40%
62034235 Men's or boys' trousers of cotton, woven 32.22 31.09 -3.48%
Total 1091.65 1033.52 -5.33%
Source: Eurostat
Table-4: Top Products having negative growth (Mn $)
Products Descriptions
Apr-Jul’
2016
Apr-Jul’
2017
%
change
61091000
T-shirts, singlets and other vests of
cotton, knitted
279.23 277.07 -0.77%
62064000
Women's or girls blouses, shirts of man-
made fibres, not knitted
169.94 160.71 -5.43%
61112090 Babies' garments accessories, of cotton, 113.89 111.37 -2.21%
EU MARKET REPORT
EU MARKET STUDY BY TEXTILE COMMITTEE
17www.textilevaluechain.comJanuary 2018
Even if, most of these 12 products have grown positively
during last five years prior to 2016 except Men’s or boys
shirts of cotton, not knitted (62052000), Toilet linen and
kitchen linen, of terry toweling of cotton (63026000)
 Men’s or boys shirts of cotton, knitted or crocheted
(61051000), these product have experienced negative
growth during last five year. Countries like Cambodia, Pa-
kistan, Bangladesh, Vietnam, Spain, Poland  Myanmar
have gained market share in the EU during last five years.
The surge in the export from these countries may be the
key factor for the decline in the India’s export to EU.
Further, out of 12 products, 9 are cotton based products,
in which India has traditionally been performing well in
most of the export destinations. The negative growth in
these cotton based products may be one of the reasons
for decline in the export of TC in EU, and decline in the
cotton based products may be a concern for the India’s
export basket for achieving desirable growth in future.
It may be noted that while China is able to maintain its
position as number one exporter of TC, India has fallen
down to 4th position from 2nd position during last few
years, which may be matter of concern for the Indian tex-
tiles sector  may create difficulties in future in accelerat-
ing export growth to these destinations needed for bol-
stering our TC exports to the world.
Annexure-I
Table-1: Top Importing Products of EU from Extra-EU($ millions)
Products Descriptions
Apr-Jul'
2016
Apr-Jul'
2017
%change
61091000
T-shirts, singlets and other vests of cotton, knitted or
crocheted: Of cotton
2386.07 2420.67 6.11%
61099020
T-shirts, singlets and other vests of textile materials,
knitted or crocheted (excl. cotton): Of artificial fibres
1127.75 1061.78 2.68%
61103099
Women's jerseys, pullovers, cardigans, waistcoats
and similar articles, of man-made fibres,
946.82 906.38 2.29%
62034231 Men's trousers and breeches of cotton denim 895.83 855.23 2.16%
62064000
Women's blouses, shirts and shirt-blouses of man-
made fibres (excl. knitted or crocheted and vests): Of
man-made fibres
795.29 813.52 2.05%
62052000
Men's shirts of cotton (excl. knitted or crocheted,
nightshirts, singlets and other vests): Of cotton
865.43 804.03 2.03%
62046231 Women's cotton denim trousers and breeches 701.38 793.16 2.00%
62034235 Men's trousers and breeches of cotton 797.62 721.88 1.82%
62121090
Brassieres of all types of textile materials, whether or
not elasticated
707.68 716.12 1.81%
61102099
Women's jerseys, pullovers, cardigans, waistcoats
and similar articles, of cotton,
624.02 637.14 1.61%
62046239 Women's trousers and breeches, of cotton 651.13 621.82 1.57%
61046200
Women's trousers, bib and brace overalls, breeches
and shorts of cotton
611.44 601.81 1.52%
63079098
Made-up articles of textile materials, incl. dress
patterns, n.e.s.
520.63 566.82 1.43%
61112090
Babies' garments and clothing accessories, of
cotton,
562.80 561.36 1.42%
61102091
Men's jerseys, pullovers, cardigans, waistcoats of
cotton,
497.41 531.95 1.34%
62029300
Women's anoraks, windcheaters, wind jackets of
man-made fibres
521.59 528.24 1.33%
62019300
Men's anoraks, windcheaters, wind jackets of man-
made fibres
485.19 525.58 1.33%
61051000 Men's shirts of cotton, knitted or crocheted 490.82 516.51 1.30%
62044300 Women's dresses of synthetic fibres 465.47 478.03 1.21%
61159500 Full-length or knee-length stockings, socks of cotton 443.22 450.67 1.14%
62034290 Men's or boys' shorts of cotton 446.00 442.66 1.12%
Total 15543.59 15555.37 0.08%
Source: Eurostat
EU MARKET REPORT
www.textilevaluechain.com18 January 2018
China Bangladesh Turkey India Pakistan RoW
EUimport from Extra-EU
Apr-Jul' 2016 Apr-Jul' 2017
-0.29% -0.69%
-0.43%
8.13%
3.32%
2.70%
Germany Italy Netherlands France Spain RoEU
EUimport from Intra-EU
Apr-Jul' 2016 Apr-Jul' 2017
4.56%
2.33%
6.94% -1.00% 7.44%
-0.16%
Table-2: Performance of China and India in EU’s top imported products from Extra-EU ($ millions)
China in EU market India in EU market
Products Apr-Jul’ 2016 Apr-Jul’ 2017 %Change Apr-Jul’ 2016 Apr-Jul’ 2017 %Change
61091000 154.32 159.11 3.11% 279.23 277.07 -0.77%
61099020 217.56 211.08 -2.98% 48.59 52.63 8.31%
61103099 422.5 410.92 -2.74% 7.73 8.28 7.12%
62034231 70.66 61.56 -12.88% 15.09 12.79 -15.21%
62064000 217.49 229.37 5.46% 169.94 160.71 -5.43%
62052000 141 129.57 -8.11% 99.25 93.74 -5.56%
62046231 106.3 112.29 5.64% 6.87 5.56 -19.01%
62034235 101.31 89.66 -11.50% 32.22 31.09 -3.48%
62121090 343.1 334.99 -2.37% 5.82 7.24 24.37%
61102099 201.46 196.94 -2.24% 27.62 26.78 -3.05%
62046239 146.51 136.84 -6.60% 17.1 14.15 -17.23%
61046200 83.34 77.66 -6.81% 74.34 73.29 -1.42%
63079098 336.48 385.08 14.44% 15.53 15.11 -2.73%
61112090 191.19 179.32 -6.21% 113.89 111.37 -2.21%
61102091 148.92 159.45 7.07% 23.79 26.14 9.87%
62029300 356.42 358.3 0.53% 2.41 2.74 13.70%
62019300 309.67 324.82 4.89% 0.51 0.95 84.25%
61051000 54.83 59.91 9.26% 50.39 49.65 -1.47%
62044300 228.79 241.43 5.52% 60.51 62.01 2.48%
61159500 147.12 167.75 14.02% 9.48 9.29 -1.97%
62034290 59.79 56.88 -4.87% 20.8 20.01 -3.79%
63026000 46.87 47.71 1.78% 61.36 58.23 -5.11%
Total 4085.61 4130.63 1.10% 1142.49 1118.84 -2.07%
Source: Eurostat
EU MARKET REPORT
TOP EXPORTERS TO EU (EXTRA  INTRA) DURING APR-JULY 2017 ($BN)
19www.textilevaluechain.comJanuary 2018
One major hazard that the synthetics pose to the environ-
ment is that many of them take more than five hundred
years to decompose. On the other hand, most natural
fibres are biodegradable and sustainable, provided that
eco-friendly techniques are adopted at every stage of
their production and disposal. Because of recent issues
like rising costs of petroleum-based fibres and their im-
pact on environment and sustainable development, nat-
ural fibres have once again found a niche in the global
textile market. Along with this, growing global population
leading to increased demand for textiles is increasing the
risk of greater environmental impact. To resolve these
issues, many industrialized nations have for long been
looking for natural biodegradable alternatives for syn-
thetics, to be applied to a wide variety of uses along with/
apart from textiles. On the other hand, in the natural fi-
bre sector, cotton is an undisputed ruler with its annual
global production crossing over 25 million tons in past
few years, followed by wool (FAO, 2005).
In the foothills of Nepal’s Himalayas, the Himalayan sting-
ing nettle plants grows naturally in the wild. Ellie Skeele,
founder of Himalayan Wild Fibers, is in the process of
developing the nettle fiber industry with the local com-
munity. According to the Center for Sustainable Fashion,
Himalayan nettle is the longest fiber currently known to
humankind and is considered finer, stronger, and more
elastic than linen. The development of this fiber would
create work and income for many Nepalis and bring a du-
rable and sustainable textile to market.
The Himalayan nettle plants hold soil in place and help
prevent landslides and erosion. They are grown without
chemical fertilizers but with regular cutting of the stocks,
according to Himalayan Wild Fibers. Most recently, Ellie
Skeele and her team explored the possibilities of working
with Thami villagers, an indigenous group of Nepal, in col-
lecting nettle from their forests.
Currently, Himalayan Wild Fibers is seeking a designer to
spin different blends of Himalayan nettle with other fab-
rics.
Himalayan Nettle – the Fiber of the Future?
Fibre-yielding plant, Himalayan nettle (Girardinia diversi-
folia), is found to be occurring abundantly in the Garh-
wal region of Uttarakhand. It was lying unexplored until
7-8 years back, when on realizing its potential in the field
of textiles, many organizations in the region initiated
Research and Development activity on the possibilities
of handloom based product development in nettle. Re-
search and Development in this field, is mostly aimed at
generating livelihood opportunities for the rural people
of Garhwal. While the Himalayan communities in Uttara-
khand, traditionally associated with extracting fibres from
nettle and hemp for rope-making, are no longer practic-
ing the craft, Bhotia weaver community, at Mangroli vil-
lage, Chamoli (UBFDB cluster) has learnt and mastered
the technique of nettle fibre processing.
However, lack of design intervention has led to a situa-
tion, where nettle products developed here, could not
establish a significant market. It was also observed, that
a lot of skills possessed by the community at the cluster
were not being explored fully for developing nettle based
products.
This experimental study has explored possibilities of de-
sign intervention/product development at different stag-
es of fibre processing, based on the skills available with
the Bhotia weaver community. As a result, a wide range
of designs – fibre, yarns, woven material and products –
have been developed, which can have potential market
value and can add effectively to the chain of existing de-
signs in nettle. Based on the results, it can be concluded
that nettle is laden with possibilities and opportunities,
and nettle based design development has a lot of scope.
However, the interests and traditions of the communities
involved in the production process should be maintained.
With the growing importance and popularity of concepts
like green, eco-friendly, sustainability, etc. natural fibres
seem to have become an obvious choice for enlightened
producers and consumers of textiles. Even though the
synthetic alternatives can be obtained easily, in wide va-
rieties and (in most cases) at low prices as compared to
natural fibres, the threats related with their extensive
production and use cannot be ruled out.
However, many researches and arguments led to a con-
clusion that cotton despite being a natural fiber, is one
of the most unsustainable crops owing to the extensive
use of fertilizers and pesticides in its production. And the
other important fibre, silk, is engulfed in a moral war of
being cruel. Even though concepts like organic cotton and
‘ahimsa’ silk have well been established, the costs and
labor involved in their production are quite high. In this
case, it becomes an urgent need to identify and promote
natural fibres other than cotton and silk. Global textile in-
dustry has been looking for alternative fibres, which can
reduce our heavy reliance on cotton. As a result, minor
natural fibres like jute, hemp, linen, etc. have gained pop-
ularity in commercial textiles since last two decades.
Nettle can be considered as one of the latest to be added
in the list of possible commercial fibre, and the biggest
advantage it holds is that it can be 100% sustainable.
Nettle is a bast fibre obtained from the stem of the wild
growing stinging nettle plant, found in the temperate re-
CLOTHING FROM HIMALAYAN NETTLE FIBRE
SUSTAINABLE FIBRE
www.textilevaluechain.com20 January 2018
gions of the world. Countries like UK and Germany, have
been involved in the development of this fibre since 1999,
and have made considerable growth in this direction. A
number of researches have been conducted not only in
developing commercial textiles using nettle, but also in
the cultivation and propagation of the crop in the most
sustainable manner. Significant development. Has been
recorded in the processes of cultivation and fibre extrac-
tion by many renowned European organizations, insti-
tutes and companies.
India, has also realized the importance and potential of
this wealth naturally found in abundance in the Himala-
yas. Especially after looking at landmark developments by
the neighboring country Nepal in nettle fibre production
and exports at a Small and Medium Enterprise level, Utta-
rakhand has been recognized as one Indian state, poten-
tial for nettle fibre development. Through initial surveys
conducted by Uttarakhand Bamboo and Fibre Develop-
ment Board for resource quantification in three blocks of
Chamoli district of Uttarakhand, it was estimated that a
total of 770 square kilometer area has naturally growing
nettle (Himalayan nettle, Girardinia diversifolia), which
can provide 24704.26 tons raw dried fibre annually (Lep-
cha, Bahti and Kumar, 2009).
Apart from Uttarakhand, the plant is found in Jammu
and Kashmir, Himachal Pradesh, Sikkim and Arunachal
Pradesh as well. Development in nettle fibre can not only
make India contribute in sustainable development in the
field of textiles, but can also help the rural hill population
in terms of income generation, providing sustainable live-
lihood to many people.
Himalayan nettle is a perennial plant found growing in
temperate and sub-tropical Himalayas, between 1200
to 2900 meters above sea level. It is largely found grow-
ing wild in the broad leaf forests with high leaf litter and
moisture as well as in the outskirts of villages of Uttara-
khand. Clothing made from nettle is not a new idea, since
the past thousands year people have worn fabrics made
from the Himalayan nettle. But nettle lost their popular-
ity when synthetic and other fibers arrived in the market.
Considering the potential of this fiber, Uttarakhand Bam-
boo  Fiber Development Board is promoting eco-friend-
ly natural fiber as livelihood option to the hill people spe-
cially Bhotia community of Uttarakhand who are crafting
variety of products in nettle fiber.
PRODUCTION OF NETTLE FIBRE AND YARN
The company has started for the development of nettle
fiber and yarns. In the beginning time, they collect nettle
yarns from villagers where they make the yarns for them-
selves. There was too much wastage thread in village no
any supply and the company collect that thread and start-
ed to supply in carpets. But this thread wasn’t exportable
so that it was searching for good yarn and fiber and it is
success to made good quality yarns from 2009. Also it was
Exporting little and limit fiber and thread before because,
that time not a good quality. But 2009 it make good fiber
and yarn by organic method and started to Export all over
the world. Specially Europe and USA. All the production
are totally handmade, 100% Natural and without chemi-
cal use so it is called as “ORGANIC PRODUCTION”.
Since the plant grows in abundance, there is no need for
any chemical fertilizers or other unnatural additives to
artificially stimulate the plants growth, making the whole
operation sustainable and environment-friendly.
PROPERTIES OF NETTLE FIBRE : Special inherent charac-
teristics of nettle fiber make it very different from other
fibers and have unique prosperities like:
Though common nettle (urtica dioica) and Himalayan
nettle (girardinia diversifolia) are biologically similar, their
fibers are quite different. Himalayan nettle is the long-
est fiber currently known to humankind and spinners at
a Italian fabric manufacturer have deemed it finer, yet
stronger and more elastic, than linen.
The fiber is not just sustainable; it actually improves the
environment in which it grows by helping to control ero-
sion and preventing deadly landslides. Collection of the
giant Himalayan nettle plant creates income for Nepali vil-
lagers and we are producing fiber using low tech methods
to create income opportunities for yet more Nepalis. The
nettle fibre is characterized by its fine sheen. It has high
tensile strength and its loft is similar to that of cotton.
Nettle fibres are extremely absorbent.
The Center of Sustainable Fashion claims that the Himala-
yan nettle is stronger, finer and more flexible than regular
linen, indicating that eco-friendly clothing made from it
will be more durable and of better quality.
ƒ Hollow core useful in creating fabrics with thermal
properties, both warm and cool
ƒ Reputedly antimicrobial, antibacterial and fire retard-
ant
ƒ Great resistance to wrinkling Benefits of Himalayan
nettle yarn
ƒ 100% organic
ƒ From a sustainable source
ƒ More environmentally friendly than cotton
ƒ Elegant, fine and durable
Pure nettle fibre (matt finish) or nettle fibre  silk (for
a sheen finish) are perfect choices If you’re looking for
something that is highly decorative and detailed and light
to touch, ideal for spring and summer.
Nettle Fibre with Pashmina or Angora wool mixes are rec-
ommended if you’re looking for the beautiful hand craft-
ed detail, but with added warmth.
The scarves and shawls are not only attractive to look at,
but are also very environmentally friendly.
SUSTAINABLE FIBRE
21www.textilevaluechain.comJanuary 2018
Nettle fibre is a great alternative to cotton and is much
kinder on the environment. Cotton production takes
a heavy toll on the environment as the cotton plant is
greedy for water, and the use of pesticides and herbicides
is widespread in its production, in fact almost one quar-
ter of pesticides used in the world are sprayed on to cot-
ton plants! The nettles used to make this scarf are grown
100% organically, with the rich soils in the Himalayan val-
leys supplying the plant with all the nutrients it needs.
Hand-knitted by members of the Kulung Rai hill tribe , the
scarves and shawls provide a much needed livelihood for
this poverty-stricken community.
Blending :
The Italian fabric manufacturer spun and wove a 50/50
viscose/Himalayan nettle sample. The manufacturer was
interested in reducing the amount of Himalayan nettle,
combining with one or more fibers and moving forward.
Nettle and Pashmina Scarf ,100% Nettle Scarf,100% Net-
tle Shawl , Nettle and silk mix scarf , Nettle and Angora
mix Scarf are made .
How to care for the nettle fibre:
ƒ 1. Wash by hand in warm soapy water, rinse well and
pull into shape.
ƒ 2. Adding a little oil to the water will help to soften the
nettle.
ƒ 3. It will become softer with each wash.
USES OF HIMALAYAN NETTLE FIBRES:
This 100% nettle yarn is hands spun from nettle fibers.
Nettle yarn is been used for centuries. the yarn are wo-
ven, crocheted and knitting into many different items -
very thing from clothing, ceremonial accessories, fishing
nets, bags etc.. This 100% natural yarn is made without
use of chemicals or machines. Nettle is naturally found in
the wild. Yarns have texture similar to natural linen like
linen will soften with wear. It’s also known as “Allo”.
These delicate hand-knitted scarves and shawls are avail-
able in four different varieties; pure nettle fibre as well
as nettle fibre mixed either with pashmina, angora or
silk. They are all available in two different sizes, with the
‘shawls’ being slightly wider and longer than the scarves.
The very long, tough bast fibres derived from the giant
Himalayan nettle have been used for thousands of years
to spin durable yarns from which fishing nets and ropes
were traditionally made. It was also mixed with birch pitch
to attach arrowheads and feathers to arrow shafts. Be-
sides its obvious suitability for utilitarian purposes, nettle
fibre can also be finely worked to produce a muslin that is
stronger than linen.
A new clothing industry is developing in Nepal by pro-
moting the use of Himalayan nettle fibers as a material
for manufacturing garments.
SUSTAINABLE FIBRE
Dr N.N.Mahapatra
President
COLORANT LTD
It was a half day
Seminar based on ‘’
Garment Processing
Green Economics ” Mr
Pratap ,MD,Wonder
Blues,Bangalore was
the chief guest
Being one of the
technical speaker Dr
Mahapatra ,President
,Colorant Ltd spoke
about the GARMENT
DYEING in which he mentioned about the Garment Dye-
ing using new sustainable fibres like Milk Fibre,Soyabean
Fibres,Bamboo Fibres and Pineapple Fibres and he also
emphasized on the new ranges of Reactive Dyes launched
by COLORANT Ltd since last few years for Garment Dye-
ing which save time,energy ,water etc in dyeing of cotton
garments. Dr Mahapatra also spoke about Super Critical
Carbon Dye oxide ( SCo2) dyeing of polyester garments
known as Waterless Dyeing and Salt free Reactive Dyeing
of Cotton Garments .He gave stress on using Colorzen
catioinised cotton in garments which will lead to Salt free
Reactive Dyeing.He emphasized on using Colron CN and
Colron SF dyes for Light/Medium shades and Colron GLX/
Colron CES dyes to be used for Dark/Heavy Dark Shades.
All these dyes are giving very good results all over India
and abroad . The seminar was arranged by the SDC India
officials and attended by Bangalore Garment and textile
process house owners,designers ,Brands Retailers and
technicians . There was technical interaction between
the audience and COLORANT technical team led by Dr
Mahapatra,Mr Venkat ,Mr Chetan Mulani  Mr Senthil Ku-
mar .
COLORANT Ltd ,Ahmedabad sponsors SDC Technical
Seminar held at Bangalore
NEWS
www.textilevaluechain.com22 January 2018
ITMACH India, the largest textile exhibition in the country
for the year 2017 concluded successfully in the capital city
Gandhinagar in Gujarat, with participants from over 10
countries worldwide. The four-day exhibition was in place
from December 7-10, 2017 that hosted the cream of the
textile manufacturing industry and the textile engineering
industry.
Over 350 exhibitors exhibited at ITMACH India in three
halls distinctly covering each specific area of textile man-
ufacturing i.e. Spinning, Weaving and Technical Textiles,
Knitting, Dyeing, Printing and Textile Processing with an
exhibition area of 30,000 square meters. The exhibition
had a visitor footfall of about 38,000. Gujarat being a ma-
jor textile manufacturing hub, the event attracted sizable
number of entrepreneurs, decision making technocrats
and industry professionals.
Almost all leading textile machinery manufacturers have
participated in ITMACH India which helped the second
edition of show to grow three fold compared to the pre-
mier edition. Among the exhibitors, Saurer, LMW, CHTC,
Premier, Amsler, Rotorcraft, Jingwei, Pacific Mechatronic,
Picanol, ITEMA, Staubli, Haijia, Rifa, A.T.E., Fong’s, Perfect
Engineering, Rimtex, PalodHimson, SPGPrints, Embee,
Premier Evolvics, Yamuna Machines, Indian Textile Engi-
neers, Kusters Calico, MAG Solvicsare few leading names
that are well known in respective areas of textile machin-
ery and technology.In terms of country, exhibitors were
from Germany, Switzerland, Italy, Belgium, Turkey, Chi-
na, Taiwan, South Korea and Japan along with a strong
stringent of Indian exhibitors who showcased their latest
ware.
The exhibition encompassed products across the entire
value chain of the textile manufacturing right from spin-
ning, knitting, weaving, processing, garmenting to yarn
and fiber. The exhibition not only created opportunities
both for buyers and sellers in a significant way, it also en-
sured that global participation brought the markets clos-
er in terms of awareness on technology, partnerships,
market opportunities and sourcing. To cap it, the state of
Gujarat which holds a lot of promise in terms of success-
ful industrial development in the country, played host to
the stellar event.
The stream of visitors had a first-hand experience of
coming face to face with the latest textile machinery and
technology. The exhibitors introduced them to the next
generation technology that was on their shelves for ready
use by the textile industry. The visitors also got to meet
technical experts from leading textile machinery and
technology suppliers and industry professionals. They
also exchanged ideas on latest trends, developments and
opportunities. The visitors have expressed satisfaction
over product on display and live demonstration, sharing
of knowledge and fine-tuning of ideas that was facilitated
by the presence of industry leaders. The convergence of
visitors from across Indian subcontinent brought vibran-
cy to the event while trade delegates from the neighbor-
ing states like Maharashtra, Madhya Pradesh, Rajasthan,
Telangana, Karnataka and Uttar Pradesh outnumbered
visitors from other states and countries.
Both exhibitors and visitors were happy with the choice of
the venue as they strongly felt that it was a well thought
out location having adequate modern infrastructures for
holding such exhibition and easy access to roads, rail-
ways, sea ports and airports made it a convenient place
for logistics handling.
To sum it up, ITMACH India 2017 was the epitome for
showcasing of excellence and innovation in textile tech-
nology. It served as an accredited B2B platform for the
textile industry. It facilitated business houses to avail op-
portunities for investing in technology and capacity build-
ing for a growing textile industry. Banking on the positive
feedback from the exhibitors and visitors, 3rd ITMACH In-
dia will be hosted inthe same venue from 5-8 December
2019.
ITMACH India 2017 Connects Machinery Marketers To
Investors, Concludes Successfully
POST SHOW REPORT
23www.textilevaluechain.comJanuary 2018
Heimtextil 2018: Renewed growth in visitors and ex-
hibitors
Successful start to the new furnishing season: around
70,000 visitors from 135 countries experienced design in-
novations by 2,975 international exhibitors at Heimtextil
from 9 to 12 January. Urban design in the context of ar-
chitecture and the hotel industry became the top topic of
the international trade fair for home and contract textiles.
‘With growth on both the visitor and exhibitor side, Heim-
textil has convinced across the board and underpinned
its unique position as a world-leading trade fair’, says De-
tlef Braun, CEO of Messe Frankfurt. Around 70,000 visi-
tors, including representatives from the retail and whole-
sale trade, interior decorators, design, architecture and
interior design, the hotel industry and industry, benefited
from the fair’s unique range of products and inspiration.
For the eighth time in a row, the trade fair increased
the number of participating companies; these now total
2,975 international exhibitors. In addition to global mar-
ket leaders and industry leaders, Heimtextil also provided
an international platform for more than 50 young design-
ers and start-ups with its newcomer programme “New 
Next”. One of the focal points of the trade fair was con-
tract furnishing and the associated focus on the target
group of architects and property planners. ‘For us it was
a fantastic trade fair première’, says Tom Puukko, owner
of the wallpaper manufacturer Feathr from Finland. ‘We
were able to generate new and excellent contacts from all
parts of the world. A special highlight for us was a group
of architects who stopped by our stand, enabling us to
present our products to them’.
Architecture meets textile design
With a first-rate lecture programme, topic-specific guided
tours and a prominent presentation area, namely the
new Interior Architecture. Hospitality Expo in hall 4.2,
Heimtextil expanded its commitment to textile contract
furnishings, and with great success. Numerous architects
and interior designers, hoteliers and furnishers took ad-
vantage of the diverse information and networking op-
portunities. ‘I considered a visit to Heimtextil as a valu-
able incentive for my work, i. e. for the interior furnishings
and design of shops and restaurants at the airport. I was
able to make interesting contacts and discover exciting,
very high-quality products’, says Jun-Florian Peine, Project
Manager Retail Development Fraport AG. In the immedi-
ate vicinity of the new area, carpet suppliers were able
to present themselves as part of a joint presentation by
the Association of German Home Textiles Manufactur-
ers (Heimtex) entitled “Carpet by Heimtex”. Volker Knieß,
responsible for International Sales at Toucan-T, drew a
positive conclusion: ‘We found the new concept of a joint
presentation interesting and are very satisfied with how
the fair went. With the main focus on acoustics, flexibility
and design, we appeal particularly to the architects who
we encounter here at Heimtextil. The guided tours for ar-
chitects in particular bring us into contact with this target
group and open up interesting contacts for us’.
Urbanisation is becoming a major trend topic
With the “Theme Park” trend area, Heimtextil gave an
outlook on the design and furnishing trends of the fu-
ture. Under the title “The Future is urban”, international
design experts visualised the megatrend of urbanisation.
Based on the statement that more than half of the world’s
population already lives in major cities, the area not only
showcased the colour and material trends of the coming
season, but above all real future prospects in the field of
textile interior design. The London-based studio Franklin-
Till directed the showcase in hall 6.0 and received great
acclaim for a trend presentation that was both progres-
sive as well as tangible and clear.
Celebrity guests up close
And the glamour factor was also once again present at
Heimtextil. Barbara Schöneberger for Tapetenfabrik
Gebr. Rasch and “die Maus” for P+S International pre-
sented their first wallpaper collections. Enie van de Meik-
lokjes and Alexander Herrmann enriched the DecoTeam’s
programme with workshops. And Laura Chaplin, grand-
daughter of the world-famous comedian, as brand am-
bassador for the Cotton made in Africa label, drew atten-
tion to the use of sustainable cotton in the textile industry.
New concept 2019
Based on discussions with exhibitors and visitor surveys,
Messe Frankfurt has developed a new Heimtextil concept
for 2019. ‘From the perspective of buyers in particular, we
are repositioning Heimtextil 2019 and grouping themes
and product groups according to target groups. In this
way, synergies can be better recognised and exploited’,
says Olaf Schmidt, Vice President Textiles  Textile Tech-
nologies at Messe Frankfurt. In addition, the demand for
stand space on the exhibitor side has grown sharply in
some product groups in recent years. The opportunity to
optimise the concept is not least due to major construc-
tion measures currently being implemented at the Messe
Frankfurt exhibition site: the new hall 12 will be erected
on the western side of the site and will be available to
Heimtextil for the first time in 2019.
Heimtextil International Trade Fair for Home and
Contract Textiles Frankfurt
POST SHOW REPORT
www.textilevaluechain.com24 January 2018
Electrochemical Processing -an ecofriendly Technology
in Textile
ABSTRACT:
The textile industry uses the electrochemical techniques
both in textile processes (such as decolorizing fabrics and
dyeing processes) and also in wastewaters treatments
(color removal from waste water).The industry is in the
need of New Green Technologies for different Textile
processes and waste water treatment. There is growing
awareness and readiness to adapt new green technolo-
gies for Cleaner Production methods. Such new green
technologies help industries to achieve green production
and cost reduction at the same time. Therefore there is
an urgent need to promote new green technologies in
textile processes. Electrochemical reduction reactions are
mostly used in sulfur and vat dyeing, but in some cases,
they are applied to effluents discoloration. These electro-
generated species are able to bleach indigo-dyed denim
fabrics and to degrade dyes in wastewater in order to
achieve the effluent color removal. The main objective of
this paper is to review the electrochemical techniques ap-
plied to textile industry.
KEY WORDS: Electrochemical, Textile, dyeing, sulfur dye,
vat dye.
INTRODUCTION:
Electrochemistry refers to the use of electrical energy
in initiating chemical reactions, replacing traditional aid
agents in direct chemical reactions. Traditionally, the elec-
trochemical techniques have been used for the synthe-
sis of compounds or for metal recovery treatments. But
now a days electrochemical techniques are used in the
bleaching of textile materials. Their application in sulfur-
and vat-dyeing processes is also interesting. In this case,
dyes are reduced by means of an electrochemical reac-
tion (instead of sodium dithionite). In this way, sulfur and
vat dyeing become cleaner processes as the addition of
chemical reagents is not required.
Although the electrochemical methods play an important
role in the different textile processes listed above, their
wider range of applications are related to color removal
in wastewater treatments in particular, in the degrada-
tion of non-biodegradable dyes (such as reactive dyes).
This kind of dyes requires additional treatments to ob-
tain uncolored effluents. In general, the electrochemical
methods are cleaner than physicochemical and mem-
brane technologies because they use the electron as
unique reagent and they do not produce solid residues.
THE ELECTROCHEMISTRY IN THE TEXTILE PRODUC-
TION PROCESSES
BLEACHING OF TEXILE MATERIALS
Cotton bleaching takes place after the scouring process
with the aim of destroying the natural raw color of this
fiber. The most common reactive to provide whiteness to
cotton is hydrogen peroxide. Chong and chu reported the
use of electrochemical techniques to generate in situ this
oxidant required for cotton bleaching by the electrolysis
of oxygen in the presence of an alkaline electrolyte. This
electrolyte proceeds from the scouring process. They
propose the use of the electrolysis process in a combined
scouring and bleaching process, and they concluded that
the whiteness obtained in the combined method is com-
parable to that obtained with conventional methods. Al-
though the electrochemical techniques have been applied
to bleach raw fibers, their main application in bleaching
field is the discoloration of indigo–denim-dyed fabrics. An
important step in the processing of indigo-dyed textiles is
the finishing of the garment to obtain the required visual
effect. The removal or destruction of part of indigo re-
quires a combination of mechanical agitation and chemi-
cal attack, mainly with oxidizing agents.
The most useful oxidant for bleaching indigo denims is
hypochlorite. The conventional method to obtain the de-
colorized effect of these denims is based on the addition
of this chemical reagent to the dye bath, but recently the
generation in situ of the hypochlorite by an electrochemi-
cal oxidation is becoming a more attractive method, be-
cause it offers several advantages with respect to the con-
ventional method:
• Improvement in the process control and consistency,
• Lower-process costs due to the production of more reg-
ular shades, the possibility of bleaching bath regenera-
tion and the lower amount of effluent generated.
DYEING PROCESS: DYES REDUCTION
Vat dyes, especially indigo, play an important role in tex-
tile industry. They are insoluble in water and cannot dye
fibers directly. They must be reduced in alkali medium to
become soluble in water. When the dyes are absorbed
onto the fiber, they return to their original form by a sub-
sequent reoxidation. Sulfur dyes also are water-insoluble
dyes, containing sulfur as an integral part of the chromo-
phore group. The alkaline-reduced form is required for
the dyeing process and subsequently, when they are add-
ed to the fiber, they are oxidized to the insoluble form.
In attempt to increase the eco-efficiency of these dyeing
processes, electrochemical techniques have been inves-
tigated in the reduction of such dyes, which avoids the
addition of reducing agents as sodium dithionite. Sodium
dithionite (Na2S2O4) is the most used reducing agent in
the industrial dyeing process with this kind of dyes, but
TECHNICAL ARTICLE
25www.textilevaluechain.comJanuary 2018
after its reaction, it cannot be recycled. It also produces
large amounts of sodium sulfate and toxic sulfite prod-
ucts. For this reason, the treatment of dyeing effluents
requires the addition of hydrogen peroxide, which also
causes high costs and other additional problems.
The most attractive new procedures to reduce vat and
sulfur dyes are electrochemical reduction methods, be-
cause the addition of reducing agents is not required.
This method also avoids the generation of toxic products
due to the reaction between the added reagents and
the dye molecules. For all these reasons, electrochemi-
cal reduction processes are considered more suitable: no
reagents addition is required, no byproducts are formed
and no tertiary treatments are necessary to treat the final
effluents. The energy is the only requirement of electro-
chemical methods. Electrochemical techniques constitute
a promising field for the different steps of textile process,
but their application to the dyeing of vat and sulfur dyes
is specially interesting to avoid the use of reducing rea-
gents.
WASTEWATER COLOR REMOVAL
The textile industry produces large volumes of wastewa-
ter in its dyeing and finishing processes. These effluents
have as common characteristic their high coloration.
Colorants, the additive substances that cause a variation
in color, can be divided in dyes or pigments. Pigments
in general are insoluble substances which have not the
chemical affinity to the substrate to be colored; other-
wise, dyes are generally soluble (or partially soluble) in
organic compounds Several methods are used for the re-
moval of organic dyes from wastewaters. Most of dyes
are only partially removed under aerobic conditions in
conventional biological treatments. As biological treat-
ment is insufficient to remove color and to accomplish
with current regulations, the application of Some electro-
chemical color removal methods have been applied to in-
dustrial effluents. The current physico-chemical methods,
based on the separation of dyes from the effluents, pro-
duce a residue which requires an additional treatment to
be destroyed. Also, the absorbent materials require their
regeneration after several treatments, and the filtration
and membranes methods need cleaning treatments.
Chemical oxidation methods are rather expensive and in-
volve some operational difficulties. Biological treatments
are a simple method but supply inefficient results in dis-
coloration because dyes have aromatic rings in their large
molecules that provide them chemical stability and resist-
ance to the microbiological attack. Enzymatic decomposi-
tion requires further investigation in order to know which
enzymatic process takes place; moreover, temperature
and pressure have to be controlled to avoid enzymes de-
naturalization.
For these reasons, the electrochemical methods are
nowadays the subject of a wide range of investigations at
laboratory and pilot-plant scale. The advantage of these
electrochemical techniques is that electron is a clean rea-
gent. They also have good versatility and high-energy ef-
ficiency. They are easy for automation and safety because
it is possible to operate at smooth conditions. The main
types of electrochemical methods applied to wastewater
treatment, briefly described below.
Electrocoagulation Methods
Electrocoagulation systems provide electrochemical ag-
gregation of heavy metals, organic and inorganic pollut-
ants, to produce a coagulated residue to be separated or
removed from water. This technique is an indirect electro-
chemical method which produces coagulant agents (Fe3+
or Al3+) from the electrode material (Fe or Al) in hydrox-
ide medium. These species, that is, Fe(OH)3, can remove
dissolved dyes by precipitation or by flotation. These
complexed compounds are attached to the bubbles of H2
(gas) evolved at the cathode and transported to the top
of solution. The inconvenient of the Electrocoagulation
in comparison to the other electrochemical methods is
that it produces secondary residues (the complex formed
with pollutant and hydroxide) which implies in the usage
of tertiary treatments.
Indirect Oxidation Methods
The indirect electro-oxidation occurs when strong oxi-
dants are generated in situ during the electrolysis and
react with the organic pollutants such as dyestuffs, pro-
ducing its total or partial degradation.
Mainly two methods one used:
ƒ The first one is the electro-oxidation with active chlo-
rine, which is the major oxidizing agent. In this case,
free-chlorine gaseous and/or the generated chlorine-
oxygen species such as hypochlorous acid (HClO) or
hypochlorite ions (ClO−) depending on the pH, oxidize
the organic matter present in the effluents.
ƒ The second one is the electro-Fenton process , where
organics degradation occurs by hydroxyl radicals (OH• )
formed from Fenton’s reaction between catalytic Fe2+
and H2O2, this hydrogen peroxide is also electrogen-
erated from O2 reduction.
This technique has an important inconvenience: a strong
acidic medium is required. As the reactive dyeing process
is carried out in basic medium (generally pH  10), a high
amount of acid has to be added before the treatment.
Subsequently, the treated effluent must be neutralized
to be discharged. Consequently, the whole process pro-
duces a high increase of the wastewater salinity.As some
industrial wastewaters contain large amounts of chloride,
the first approach is more suitable to treat this kind of ef-
fluents, because the addition of any chemical product is
not required whereas in second case, Fenton reagent is
needed. In contrast, the combination of electrochemistry
and chloride can produce haloforms such as chloroform,
although it is not an inconvenient if the treated water is
degraded lately in a biological plant to accomplish its min-
TECHNICAL ARTICLE
www.textilevaluechain.com26 January 2018
eralization.
Color Removal from Textile and other Industrial
Wastewater using Ozone
Ozone has been used for successfully for removal of color
from textile wastewater streams in plants around the
world as well as in other industrial wastewater processes.
In wastewater treatment, ozone is often used in conjunc-
tion with biological treatment systems such as activated
sludge. Organic dyes are mostly refractory due to their
large molecular size and they can be poorly removed by
adsorption on activated sludge. In some cases ozone has
been used before the biological process, but mainly after
biological treatment. If the wastewater is hardly biode-
gradable or toxic to activated sludge pretreatment is an
option.
Ozone can be used prior to a biological process since it
has a tendency to convert organic molecules into smaller
more biodegradable species. This can enhance the effi-
ciency of the biological process. In addition, ozone treat-
ment of wastewater increases the oxygen content of the
water (unconverted oxygen and ozone that decomposes
back to oxygen that was mixed with the water) which
results in improvement in aerobic processes. While this
benefit is well known in the literature it is difficult to prac-
tically apply since the amount of improvement is difficult
to predict and pilot studies involving ozone and biological
processes are difficult to carry out. The effect of ozone on
improving biodegradability and reducing toxicity is worth
noting in terms of the effect of the treated water on the
receiving stream. Where the treated water is tested for
toxicity, the impact of the treatment process on this pa-
rameter must be considered. Destroying one organic
molecule, but creating more toxic ones in a treatment
process has been observed, for example the ozonation
of MTBE without any additional agents or treatment pro-
cesses can result in a more toxic wastewater. Another
consideration is the presence of surfactants and the need
to remove these compounds from the water. In some lo-
cales surfactant concentrations are tightly controlled and
must be kept under 1 ppm. This creates an additional de-
mand for oxidant. Some textile waste waters contain both
color and surfactants.
Ozone is effective in removing the color from all dyes
used in textile processing. The amount of ozone can vary
depending on a number of factors: how much color was
removed in the biological process, the type of dye used,
where ozone is applied in the process, etc. Knowing the
proper amount of ozone required to meet the color re-
moval objective for the receiving water body is critical to
the economics of the ozone system. In general it is not
easy to predict the amount of ozone required, so in vir-
tually all cases where specific previous experience is not
available, pilot testing is employed.
CONCLUSIONS
The electrochemical techniques have been proved to be
efficient in different oxidation or reduction steps of the
textile processes such as: bleaching denim fabrics or re-
duction of sulfur and vat dyes, where their applications
are available in both natural and synthetic fibers. They
constitute a less harmful alternative than the traditional
processes. In addition, the electrochemical treatments
have been extensively applied to the decontamination
of wastewaters from the textile processes. The possibil-
ity of reusing dyeing effluents treated by electrochemical
methods is particularly interesting and it implies an im-
portant saving of water and salt. This kind of studies is
especially important in Mediterranean countries, where
the river flow rates are low and their salinity is nowadays
an increasing environmental problem.
REFERENCES
1. C. L. Chong and P. M. Chu, “Bleaching cotton based on
electrolytic production of hydrogen peroxide,”American
Dyestuff Reporter, vol. 87, no. 4, pp. 13–19, 1998.
2. T. Bechtold, E. Burtscher, and A. Turcanu, “Direct ca-
thodic reduction of Leuco Sulfur Black 1 and Sulfur Black
1,” Journal of Applied Electrochemistry, vol. 28, no. 11, pp.
1243–1250, 1998
3. Dyes Color Removal by Ozone and Hydrogen Peroxide:
Some Aspects and Problems, R. Tosik, Ozone: Science and
Engineering 27: 265-272
4. Y. Amano and Y. Y. Tanaka, “Treating agent for bleach
processing,” Japanese Patent: Application number
“JP1988000226387”, 1990.
5. T. Bechtold, P. Maier, and W. Schrott, “Bleaching of in-
digo-dyed denim fabric by electrochemical formation of
hypohalogenites in situ,” Coloration Technology, vol. 121,
no. 2, pp. 64–68, 2005.
6. M. D. Teli, P. Rohera, J. Sheikh, and R. Singhal, “Use of
Amaranthus (Rajgeera) starch vis-à-vis wheat starch in
printing of vat dyes,” Carbohydrate Polymers, vol. 76, no.
3, pp. 460–463, 2009.
7. E. Marte, “Dyeing with sulphur, indigo and vat dyes us-
ing the new RD process. Hydroxyacetone makes it possi-
ble,” Text Praxis International, vol. 44, p. 737, 1989.
8. A. Roessler and X. Jin, “State of the art technologies
and new electrochemical methods for the reduction of
vat dyes,” Dyes and Pigments, vol. 59, no. 3, pp. 223–235,
2003.
9. W. G. Kuo, “Decolorizing dye wastewater with Fenton’s
reagent,” Water Research, vol. 26, no. 7, pp. 881–886,
1992.
10. N. Meksi, M. Kechida, and F. Mhenni, “Cotton dyeing
by indigo with the borohydride process: effect of some
experimental conditions on indigo reduction and dyeing
TECHNICAL ARTICLE
27www.textilevaluechain.comJanuary 2018
quality,” Chemical Engineering Journal, vol. 131, no. 1–3,
pp. 187–193, 2007.
11. W. Schrott, “Electrochemical dyeing,” Textile Asia, vol.
35, no. 2, pp. 45–47, 2004
12. M. A. Kulandainathan, A. Muthukumaran, K. Patil, and
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73, no. 1, pp. 47–54, 2007.
13. Removal of Dissolved Organic and color from dying
Wastewater by Pre-Ozonation and Subsequent Biologi-
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Ozone: Science and Engineering, 28: 199-205
14. C. Hachem, F. Bocquillon, O. Zahraa, and M. Bouchy,
“Decolourization of textile industry wastewater by the
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vol. 49, no. 2, pp. 117–125, 2001.
15. S. Figueroa, L. Vazquez, and A. Alvarez-Gallegos, “ecol-
orizing textile wastewater with Fenton’s reagent electro-
generated with solar photovoltaic cell,” Water Research,
vol. 43, no. 2, pp. 283–294, 2009.
Department of Textile Technology
Shyam Barhanpurkar, Ajay S Joshi,  K Sarkar
Shri Vaishanv Institute of Technology and Science, Indore
Ichalkaranji, popularly known as the ‘Manchester of Ma-
harashtra’, is one of the prominent centres of the decen-
tralised textile sector in India. Recent years have seen a
phenomenal growth of the textile industry in Ichalkaranji
with major investments in the latest technologies.
In the weaving sector, around 9,000 shuttleless weaving
machines, mainly high speed airjet and rapier technol-
ogy, 20,000 auto looms, Ruti-C, Ruti-B and Cimmco, and
120,000 plain power looms are in operation, producing
fabrics such as grey apparel, cambric, poplin, dhoti, print-
ed sari, blouse, interlining, shirting, sheeting, canvas, and
industrial textiles.
To cater to the weaving machines, there are about 160
sizing units with more than 250 sizing machines in all,
which include a range of conventional machinesas well as
the most modern technology machines.
A.T.E. has a strong presence in the Ichalkaranji market
with several Karl Mayer installations. As a renowned so-
lution provider, A.T.E. consistently meets increasing cus-
tomer expectations in terms ofhigh quality warp, and
better productivity to achieve the best performance on
high speed shuttleless weaving machines. In the last
few years, more than 40 Karl Mayer sizing and warping
machines have been installed in this market, while many
more machines are expected soon.
Jathar Group of Textiles is a well-known job sizer from
Ichalkaranji and has so far installed 11 Karl Mayer warp
preparation machines. The leading airjet weavers in
Ichalkaranji turn to the Jathar Group for all their sizing
beams, as they find the performance of their weaving
machine is much better with warp sized on Karl Mayer
machines.
Mr Sachin Jathar, Managing Director of the Jathar Group
of Textiles, and his team believe that as a job sizer one
must have adequate process knowledge on sizing tech-
nology and also have the best quality warp preparation
equipment to retain customers. Expressing his satisfac-
tion with the Karl Mayer machines, Mr Sachin Jathar says
“since our first purchase in the year 2010, Karl Mayer ma-
chines have been operating to the best of our satisfaction.
Due to Karl Mayer machines, the sized beams started per-
forming well on high-speed air jet looms with the highest
efficiency and productivity. A.T.E. and Karl Mayer teams
have always supported us and gave us the right guidance.
We are happy with the overall performance of Karl Mayer
machines and today we have 11 Karl Mayer warp prepa-
ration machines, which cater to a major market segment
in Ichalkaranji”.
The increasing preference for the Karl Mayer technology
can be gauged from the repeat orders received for warp
preparation machines from other leading customers like
the Baldev Group, Arvind Texfab and many more from
the Ichalkaranji market.
Karl Mayer has recently introduced PROSIZE technology,
a breakthrough innovation in sizing, designed to provide
unmatched advantages and benefits to customers. After
the successful installation of the first 2 PROSIZE machines
in Ichalkaranji (out of a total of 20 machines supplied so
far in India), there are several orders for the PROSIZE ma-
chines in the pipeline from this market.
Karl Mayer creates a niche in the Ichalkaranji market
NEWS
TECHNICAL ARTICLE
www.textilevaluechain.com28 January 2018
Shri Ajay Tamta, Hon’ble Minister of State (MoS) for Tex-
tiles inaugurated the 60th edition of India International
Garment Fair (IIGF) . The three day international fair is pri-
marily covering the Autumn/Winter season of European
Union, USA and other Western markets.
Shri Ajay Tamta, Hon’ble Minister of State for Textiles
said, “IIGF is a big platform which brings together the
overseas garment buyers and garment exporters with
almost half of the Indian states participating in the fair.
Garment sector is one of the largest employment pro-
viders and is helping a large number of people to earn
their livelihood. The apparel Industry is going through a
challenging phase and to address the concerns of the In-
dustry, a committee has been formed by the Government
to look into the issues raised by the Industry. The textile
package announced by the Honourable Prime Minister is
benefitting the sector, immensely. During the last IIGF,
Overall business worth US $200 million and its seence to
be increase this year.
Mr. HKL Magu, Chairman, of AEPC expresses the note
with the huge transformation in the Fair and the industry
has witnessed in these years. The Fair has grown in scale
 scope and emerged as the one of the largest and most
popular platforms in Asia where overseas garment buy-
ers can source and forge the business relationship with
India’s finest in Apparel and Fashion Accessories domain.
This time the fair is conducting at a time when Industry
is facing lot of challenges both domestically and globally.
This is high times for the Industry with global head winds
blowier The post GST transformation for the industry has
been challenging, but I am sure the industry seems the
resilience in the past, and emerge stronger.”
A total no. of 294 exporters from 11 states namely Guja-
rat, Haryana, Maharashtra, Madhya Pradesh, New Delhi,
Rajasthan, Tamil Nadu, Telangana, Uttar Pradesh and
West Bengal are participating at the 60th IIGF. These 294
participants displays women’s wear, accessories, kid’s
wear and menswear. International buyers from 95 coun-
tries like Brazil, Spain, Japan, Uruguay, UK, Hong Kong, US
etc. have also registered to participate in this fair.
IIGF is also organizing fashion shows, twice a day on all
three days for exhibiting the collections for business de-
velopment. Besides this, the best displayed stalls would
be awarded Gold, Silver and Bronze Trophies in an award
function.
India International Garment Fair is a B-2-B fair started
in 1988 .The fair is being organized in association with
International Garment Fair Association and four major
Garment Exporters’ Associations Viz. Apparel Exporters
 Manufacturers Association (AEMA), Garment Exporters
Association (GEA), The Clothing Manufacturers Associa-
tion of India (CMAI) and Garment Exporters of Rajasthan
(GEAR).This is only B-2-B fair and is meant for conducting
meaningful and quality business.
ASSOCIATION NEWS
Shri Ajay Tamta, Minister of State (MoS) for Textiles,
inaugurates 60th edition of India International Garment Fair
A well-fitting shirt makes a big difference and adds colour
to your style. Men’s love to have different range of fabric,
colour and styles in their wardrobe which suit their per-
sonality. Well if you are looking for all this and want to
get your wear customise, you need to enter Bombay Shirt
Company.
The popular Indian brand the Bombay Shirt Company re-
cently opened its first studio in the UAE, at Central Park
Towers in Dubai. The brands website offers variety of
designs where you can have a look through the Design
Your Own Shirt tab. First you need to select your fabric
from 1000 types with many shades of colour. You can also
choose weaves that come in all manner of checks, stripes,
prints and motifs.
Next you need to pick the collar from the15 different
ones from the classic spread pattern and cutaway collar
to traditional bandhgala and contemporary skinny style.
Then you can select the cuffs, plackets and monogram
options, as well as sleeve and pocket style, button and
elbow patches.
The price at Bombay Shirt Company starts from Dh400.
Want To Customise Your Wear, Enter The Newly Launched
Bombay Shirt Company
NEWS
29www.textilevaluechain.comJanuary 2018
Steady Rise in Textile Imports – a concern for the
domestic industry: CITI
On the release of foreign trade data for the month of De-
cember 2017 by the Ministry of Commerce  Industry,
Shri Sanjay Kumar Jain, Chairman, CITI, expressed con-
cern over the 3% decline in CAGR in textiles and apparel
exports compared to the corresponding period of Decem-
ber 2016. The exports of textiles and apparel stood at US$
2996 million during December 2017 as
against US$ 3075 million in December
2016. However, the cumulative export
has slightly improved by 2% CAGR as
the exports stood at US$ 26,136 million
in April-Dec 2017 in comparison to US$
25,721 million in April-Dec 2016. Shri Jain
further stated that the share of textiles
and apparel exports in the All Commodity Exports (ACE)
also declined by 2% in December 2017. A comparative
statement showing the sector-wise performance is given
below:
India’s Exports of Textiles  Clothing to the World
Values in USD Mn
Source: Ministry of Commerce  Industry
Shri Sanjay Jain while appreciating the cumulative in-
crease in the textiles and clothing exports during April-
December 2017 also expressed concernsover the consist-
ent increase in imports of textiles and clothing during the
same period. The imports of textiles during December
2017 stood at US$ 165.34 million in comparison to US$
137.24 million in December 2016, registering an increase
of 20.48 per cent.
Shri Jain also pointed out that as per the latest statistics re-
leased by Export Promotion Bureau of Bangladesh, India’s
imports of garments from Bangladesh has reached US$
111.3 million during July to December 2017, indicating a
sharp rise of 66% from US$ 66.9 million during the same
period last year. The data regarding imports of garments
from Bangladesh post GST is illustrated in table below:
Quick Estimates on Imports for the month of Decem-
ber 2017
Value in USD Mn
Imports of Garments from Bangladesh Post GST
Shri Sanjay Jain also stressed that the on-going scenario
is negatively affecting the domestic yarn, fabric and gar-
ment manufacturers. He further stated that there is a
greater need to impose safeguard measures such as Rules
of Origin, Yarn Forward and Fabric Forward Rules on the
countries like Bangladesh
and Sri Lanka that have FTAs
with India to prevent cheap-
er fabrics produced from
countries like China routed
through these countries.
Garment manufacturers in
India have to pay duty on im-
ported fabrics, while Bangla-
desh can import fabric from
China duty free and convert
them into garments and sell
to India duty free. This is put-
ting Indian garment industry
at a major disadvantage and
this figure is expected to go
up in coming months.
At the same time, Shri Sanjay Jain pointed out that India
can increase its exports of cotton yarn and fabrics pro-
vided the sector is restored with export incentives. CITI
has been strongly representing the case of cotton yarn
and fabrics with every government department, including
PMO to enhance the competitiveness of the cotton yarn
and fabric sector. He stated that at present India’s share
of cotton yarn in world trade is 26% and it is declining
steeply as the incentives given to the cotton yarn sector
were withdrawn in 2014 and MEIS which was extended to
the entire value chain was not extended to cotton yarn.
Moreover, there are various state levies up to the tune of
8% on cotton yarn which are not refunded at any stage.
Similarly, Fabric sector is not getting refund of state levies
Export Category Dec’16 Dec’17 CAGR April
-Dec 16
April
-Dec 17
CAGR
Cotton Yarn/Fabs./Made-
ups, Handloom Items etc.
935 939 0.40% 7,177 7,513 5%
Man-made Yarn/Fabs./
made-ups etc.
390 417 7% 3,326 3,554 7%
Apparel 1,454 1,337 -8% 12,426 12,386 -0.30%
Textile and Apparel (in-
cluding Jute, Carpet and
Handicrafts)
3,075 2,996 -3% 25,721 26,136 2%
All Commodity 24,057 27,030 12% 199,467 223,513 12%
% of TA in Total Exports 13% 11% 13% 12%
Category Dec’16 Dec’17 %
Change
April-
Dec 2016
April-
Dec
2017
%
change
Textile Yarn
Fabric/Made-
ups articles
137.24 165.34 20.48% 1,160 1,388 19.65%
ASSOCIATION NEWS
www.textilevaluechain.com30 January 2018
of around 6%. By including cotton yarn under MEIS and
providing ROSL for fabrics, Indian can retain its competi-
tiveness in the global market. Shri Sanjay K. Jain, stated
that he is optimistic that the Government would consider
CITI’s representations and resolve the issues of the textile
and clothing sector on an urgent basis.
In USD Million July-Dec 2016 July-Dec 2017 % change
Knitted Apparel 20.6 36.5 77%
Woven Apparel 46.3 74.8 62%
Total 66.9 111.3 66%
Exports of Man Made Fibre Textiles items up by 7 Percent
Exports of Synthetic and Rayon textiles has registered a
growth since the start of this financial year and this trend
is continuing further showing a growth of 7% in US Dollar
term during April – November, 2017.
Shri Sri Narain Aggarwal, Chairman of The Synthetic 
Rayon Textiles Export Promotion Council said that this
year seems to be a successful one unlike the previous
year in terms of achievement of growth for this sector.
According to Shri Sri Narain Aggarwal; main category of
fabrics, yarn and made-ups have shown a growth value at
Rs.20239.69 crores and man-made staple fibre has also
shown a growth of Rs.2679.28 crores during April-Novem-
ber 2017.
The Chairman of SRTEPC extends his sincere thanks to
our Hon’ble Union Textile Minister Ms. Smriti Irani for
her deep understanding towards the problems faced by
the MMF segment and her kind support. He also thanked
the Hon’ble Union Commerce and Industry Minister Shri
Suresh Prabhu for his support and encouragement for
MMF Textile industry. It was due to their continued sup-
port and cooperation exports of manmade textiles could
grow and achieve its true potential.
Nov-16 Nov-17 % Grw/ De-
cline 17/16
Commodity Value (INR ) Value (US $) Value (INR ) Value
(US $)
Value
(INR )
Value (
US $)
MANMADE STAPLE FIBRE 3418049696 50543645 3012539043 46444928 -11.86 - 8
MANMADE
YARN,FABRICS,MADEUPS
20167600764 298223916 24718504536 381090254 22.57 28
TOTAL 23585650460 348767561 27731043579 427535182 17.58 23
April - Nov 2016 April - Nov
2017
% Grw/ De-
cline 17/16
Commodity Value (INR ) Value (US $) Value (INR ) Value (US $) Value (INR ) Value (US $)
MANMADE STAPLE FIBRE 25007061921 373271456 26792887650 415284695 7.14 11.26
MANMADE
YARN,FABRICS,MADEUPS
196620365171 2935562948 202396957684 3137324574 2.94 6.87
TOTAL 221627427092 3308834404 229189845334 3552609269 3.41 7.37
ASSOCIATION NEWS
Source: Export Promotion Bureau of Bangladesh
Imports of Garments from Bangladesh Post GST
SRTEPC NEWS
31www.textilevaluechain.comJanuary 2018
Women apparel brand Shree growing in double
digits by using Liva fabric
• Shree increases production of
Liva tagged garments from 15,000
per month to 250,000 garments
per month
• Liva supports Shree with innova-
tive fabrics, quality up gradation
of vendors, latest trends and co-
branded marketing campaigns
Shree – The Indian Avatar has ob-
served almost 1500% growth in demand for its garments
made from Liva fabrics. Owing to the rise in demand of
Liva, the new age fluid fabric from the Aditya Birla Group,
Shree now boasts a production of 250,000 garments per
month made from Liva from just 15,000 garments per
month.
Talking about the collaboration with LIVA, Sandeep Ka-
poor, an Expert in Textile and Apparel Industry and Direc-
tor of Shree – The Indian Avatar, stated, “Our success has
a lot to do with the unique way in which we operate our
business. We create, innovate and introduce 5 new trend
collections everyday, which is unlike any other garment
manufacturing company in the country. This is a fast fash-
ion model.”
Mr. Kapoor further added, “We get immense support
from Liva with respect to innovative fabrics and modern
trends. With increasing popularity of Liva, we now have
almost 98% of our collection made from Liva fabric.”
Shree gets good consumer insights from 24 EBOs and
1000 MBOs. These insights help to create new innova-
tions on a daily basis. This also indicates that the supply
chain has to be robust and fast. Liva Accredited Partner
Forum (LAPF) has understood the requirement very well.
LAPF has worked in close coordination with its partners
and brought down the lead time of supplying the fabrics
from 75 days to almost 25 days.
According to Mr. Manohar Samuel, President – Marketing,
Birla Cellulose, “We are looking for partners who can un-
derstand consumers well, innovate continuously and also
understand fabrics. Shree fits in all requirements very
well. They have the ability to connect with every stratum,
be it value chain or end consumers”.
To fuel growth, Liva supports Shree in co – branding ac-
tivities, with a focus to spread awareness for both Shree
– The Indian Avatar and Liva.
Applied DNA Sciences Expands Internationally with
New Central DNA Testing Laboratory in India
New Facility to Service Growing Business in Textiles, Glob-
al Supply Chains from the Asia Pacific Region
Applied DNA Sciences, Inc. (NASDAQ: APDN, “Applied
DNA,” “the Company”) today announced the establish-
ment of a Central DNA Testing Laboratory in Ahmedabad,
India providing full forensic authentication services. The
laboratory supports Applied DNA’s growing global textile
business in the Asia-Pacific region with expansion capa-
bility for other supply chains present in the region, such
as fertilizer and pharmaceuticals. Officially opening on
February 15, 2018, the Central Laboratory is strategically
located in the state of Gujarat, an economic hub for the
development and advancement of cotton, other textiles,
fertilizers, petrochemicals and pharmaceuticals.
Dr. Ila Lansky, a forensic scientist with over 11 years of
forensic DNA experience, will direct the Central DNA Test-
ing Laboratory. She currently oversees all aspects of fo-
rensic analysis, testing, authentication and reporting for
all samples submitted, following the standard operating
procedures established by Applied DNA’s New York fo-
rensic laboratories. The Central DNA Testing Laboratory
is a high throughput laboratory, providing customers with
accurate reports in a short turnaround time.
“This is an important opportunity for Applied DNA to
bring our proven technologies to the heart of India’s tex-
tile industry, and share our impeccable standards and op-
erational protocols,” said Dr. Lansky. “The laboratory will
have the ability to process thousands of samples, serving
our textiles customers in the region,”
NEWS
www.textilevaluechain.com32 January 2018
The Indian textile industry is currently estimated at ap-
proximately $135 billion USD and is expected to reach
$230 billion by 2023 (IBEF 2017). It is home to such global
textile brands and manufacturers as The Himatsingka
Group and GHCL Limited. Additionally, India is home to
the sixth largest pharmaceutical market in the world, with
an expected value of $550 billion by 2020 (IBEF 2017).
“Opening a lab in Gujarat has both strategic and practical
importance for Applied DNA,” said Dr. James A. Hayward,
president and chief executive officer of Applied DNA.
“Our partnership with Himatsingka, has proven remark-
ably successful, with uptake in the commercial ecosys-
tem and endorsement by big box retailers. Adoption of
our technologies by other textile companies is growing.
Working closely with such India-based industry majors as
Himatsingka and GHCL, we know Applied DNA’s value in
enabling source-verified supplied chains and contributing
the steady growth and ensured protection of the circular
economy. It only makes sense for Applied DNA to have a
facility where so many of our current and future partners
are based.”
NEWS
‘‘ Be Fearless in the pursuit of what sets
your soul on fire..’’
Review of Textile Value Chain Magazine
Mr Rushin H.Vadhani
AYM SYNTEX
We are occasional advertiser of
TVC, we are satisfied with the
service and response.
“ TVC is one of the integral  informative
magazines in Textile Industry. It broadly covers all
spectrum of Textile Industry with the latest
update. I appreciate the quality of articles  in-
depth information by industry experts. The
content of the magazine is well structured which
helps readers to understand  enhance their
knowledge. Kudos to TVC editorial Team for their
hard work, efforts  relationship in the industry
which helps Textile Industry to leap towards next
milestone. My good wishes to Ms Jigna  TVC
team”
Mr. Jitendra Kanbar
Klassic Fabrics
Mr.Bipin Vora
Vora Associates
The Textile Value Chain Magazine is a complete
Package for Textile Industry which Include market
report of Domestic Cotton, Yarn  Export.
Current issues like GST and demonetization is
well covered by different issues of magazine
Hi I am Azim Pehlari from Revolve
Valves  Bearings.
Textile Value Chain Magazine is a
Platform were you get day today
information of Textile Industry
from Thread to Cloth
We are thankful to TVC n all the
Staff for such great work
Mr. Azim Pehlari
Revolve Valves
January 2018
January 2018
January 2018
January 2018
January 2018
January 2018
January 2018
January 2018
January 2018
January 2018
January 2018
January 2018
January 2018
January 2018
January 2018
January 2018

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January 2018

  • 1. www.textilevaluechain.com TE TILEX VALUE CHAIN JANUARY 2018 Volume 6 Issue 1 Registered with Registrar of Newspapers under | RNI NO: MAHENG/2012/43707 Postal Registration No. MNE/346/2018-20 published on 5th of every month, TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN posted at Mumbai, Patrika Channel Sorting Office,Pantnagar, Ghatkopar-400075, posting date 12/13 of month | Pages 48 v Interview: ITEMA Weaving / Alidhara Weavetech v Market Report : Export Yarn / EU Market Study / Marriage Muharat v SUSTAINABLE FIBRE : Himalayan Nettle v Show Report : ITMACH 2017 / HEIMTEXTILE 2018 v TECHNICAL ARTICLE : Electrochemical Processing -an eco friendly Technology in Textile
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  • 6. TEMPLE RINGS/ROLLERS YEARS India's Leading Manufacturer Exporter of Picanol/Dornier/Vamatex/Sulzer/SometGRIPPERS RAPIER TAPES Picanol/Dornier/Vamatex/Sulzer/Somet Torrey Twister TEMPLES
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  • 8. 7 www.textilevaluechain.comJune 2017 Textile Agent 317, Cosmos Platinum, 3rd Floor, Gokhale Road (south), Dadar (west),Mumbai – 400028. Ph:- 24301555/24361555/24371555 Email : - rmking555@gmail.com Parekh Agencies Parekh Associates Garment Agent 40,Bhangwadi Shopping Arcade, 1st Floor, Kalbadevi Road,Mumbai - 400 002, Maharashtra, INDIA Tel : +91-22-2201 1111 / 2205 5555 / 2207 3555 Email : txking555@gmail.com Mr. Shailesh Parekh - M: 9820055506 Mr. Ritesh Shah - M: 9320055506 / 9820629406 Mr. Arpit Jain - M: 9324488888 Mr. Ketan Dattani - M: 9820186888 Mr. Ashish Niwate - M: 9820456445 Mr. Rajan Parekh - M: 9930955506
  • 9. 9www.textilevaluechain.comJanuary 2018 INTERVIEW Christian Straubhaar started his career in 1998 in the USA as Quality Manager at Altech Corporation. In 2000 he came back to his native Country, Switzerland, to start his career in textile companies with the appoint- ment of Leader Organization Manager at Rhodia Industri- al Yarns. Starting from 2002, Mr Straubhaar was promot- ed to Plant Manager position for the polyamide company branch based in Poland. Rhodia promoted in 2003 Mr Straubhaar as Market Man- ager with worldwide responsibility for sales and market- ing of fibres and monofilaments produced respectively in Germany and Poland. Based in Germany, Mr Straubhaar was in charge of an area sales managers team in Asia- Pacific, North America and Europe. In 2007 Rhodia entrusted him as investor manager for the LBO (leveraged buyout) operations for the new entity Nexis Fibres AG. Mr Straubhaar joined Itema Group in 2008 as Head of Profit Center for the Swiss branch of the Company. His career in Itema evolved in 2013 with the appointment as COO for Itema Switzerland and in 2015 with the nomina- tion as Spare Parts Business Unit Director. In 2016 Mr Straubhaar was appointed Group Sales Marketing Director in charge of weaving machines, spare parts and product management departments. • What inspired you to Start A Company in Textile Machinery and what is Purpose behind it? Everything started in 1967, when the Company Somet was founded in Italy in one of the main textile cradles of the country to provide weaving machines to the numerous weavers based in the area. Since then, the founder (the Radici family, one of the most renowned Italian entre- preneurs) proceeded over the years with a series of suc- cessful mergers and acquisitions, namely Vamatex and Sulzer, till to become the big- gest weaving ma- chines manufac- turer in the world. In 2012, the Itema brand was born to put together the best of know- how and excellence of the three historic companies that today represent the foundations of Itema. • In which countries/continents do you focus on for exports? What are the reasons behind this choice? Our machines are exported to about 50 countries every year. We provide looms, original spare parts and best-in- class after-sales service to all the textile markets in the world, from African countries to Japan, South Korea, USA, El Salvador, Guatemala passing through the largest tex- tile markets such as China, India, Pakistan, Bangladesh and Turkey. Wherever there is a weaver, Itema is ready to serve him. • What motivated you to enter into the Indian market? In India the fabric production is traditionally one of the main business areas. Historically, since Somet, Vamatex and Sulzer times, we are providing looms to the Indian weavers. In 2003 we decided to invest in the country and we set up our own organization, Itema India Pvt. Ltd., which today features more than 50 skilled and trained employees based in 4 different locations (Mumbai, Coim- batore, New Dehli, Kolhapur). • What do you think sets apart your machineries over that of your competitors? The Itema weaving machines are designed, developed and produced to be a tool in the hands of the weavers. Our machines feature the most user-friendly electronic platform that through a full color touch-screen console provides all the machine parameters at your fingertips. Each device is studied to guarantee ease of use and quick settings. Moreover, I would like to underline two main as- pects that our Customers recognize to the Itema weaving machines: first, we have the highest textile versatility and fabric quality compared to competition and second, our ITEMA A Weaving Solution Always A Step Ahead Exclusive Interview with Mr Christian Straubhaar – Itema Group Sales and Marketing Director Ms. Valentina Brignoli- Marketing Communication Manager
  • 10. www.textilevaluechain.com10 January 2018 looms are the most compact in the market providing a valuable space saving in the mill layout. • Do you find any difference between the Indian market and the rest of the global market? The Indian textile market is nowadays at the highest levels and some of the largest textile conglomerates are actu- ally based in India. Ofcourse in India the textile industry is divided into different segments that differ a lot from each other. The organized corporate segment is made by structured companies looking for the best equipment in the market to compete at the highest levels in the interna- tional market. Whilst the non-organized segment features medium and small companies (that actually compared to the worldwide textile mills size are not even so small…) with a huge growth potential if ready change the mindset and look for advanced technology instead of investing in old, second-hand machineries. • What all Challenges / Hardship you faced during the journey? Every day presents a new challenge as we constantly strive towards satisfying our customers not just 100% but 110%. The textile machinery market in which we operate is sub- ject to sudden oscillations provoked by multiple factors such as political instability, raw materials crisis or contin- gent economic situation that afflicts the market demand. What we do as a Company to face this volatile environ- ment is to build a solid and trusted Customer base in the market and to constantly invest in internal improvements to rely on a flexible and agile organization. • Did you face any operational challenges? If we look back at the past year focusing on India we can say that yes, we had a few challenges to face. Indian mar- ket faced some issues due to demonetization and GST introduction and we experienced a slowdown at the be- ginning of 2017 due to the introduction of the new regu- lations. Indian entrepreneurs found in any case the best way to deal with these events and we were close to them to support and find the best business solution. The situa- tion for us is today stable in India, investments are going on and we are satisfied about the results we obtained. • Could you tell us more about the Green Label certification that your company has received? We are a part of the Sustainable Technologies Providers programme of ACIMIT which is the Italian textile machin- ery association. The association was the very first in the world to establish such a programmed to encourage tex- tile machinery makers to promote their most sustainable technology offerings, adhering to very strict standards of certification related to emission of machines. The pro- gramme and the Green Label are managed by a third- party independent auditor and verifier, DNV, which con- ducts specific tests and evaluate companies in terms of different parameters, including power consumption. So, the Green Label certification is provided only if a company is able to meet these stringent parameters. The certifica- tion is very important for us, as we are working towards sustainable developments. • So, this certification applies only in Italy or is it globally applicable? The certification, although issued in Italy, is valid for the specific certified products and is applicable worldwide. This way a customer who takes very seriously the envi- ronmental footprint of acquired technology can be rest assured that a Green Label certified machine has the ex- act green credentials he or she is looking for. • What is your take on the future scenario of your segment in the global market? Today we have positive feelings about the future trend of the textile machinery industry and we expect 2018 to be another quite good year for the sector. We foresee stable investments in all the main textile countries and in India we are involved in big, important investment projects that will be finalized during 2018. • What is your review towards the ITMACH 2017 We are participating at ITMACH with one of the biggest stands in the hall and our airjet weaving machine A9500p on display to show our huge potential and our technical superiority to the Gujarat textile industry, which is one of the main here in India. Moreover, we expect to meet our Surat Customers, where we have an optimal and strong presence. I think that this exhibition has its main value in offering to companies the possibility to display their products exactly where prospects and Customers are. • What are your future plans? Itema is working to provide the market with advanced weaving solutions and we will continue on this path to be always a step ahead. With a clear mission in mind: our Customers need looms to weave fabric and, if they are looking to offer to their market the best possible fabric quality, Itema is the right partner and supplier. INTERVIEW
  • 11. 11www.textilevaluechain.comJanuary 2018 JANUARY 2018 ISSUE CONTENT Advertiser Index INTERVIEW 9- Mr. Christian Straubhaar and Ms. Valentina Brignoli, ITEMA Weaving 39- Mr. Chintan Thumar, Alidhara Weatech Group MARKET REPORT 13- Export Yarn Report 14- Domestic Yarn / Cotton Report 15- Marriage Muharat 2018 16- EU Market Report by Textile Committee 17- Top Importing Products of EU from Extra-EU ($ millions) 18- Top Exporters To EU (EXTRA INTRA) DURING APR-JULY 2017 ($BN) 18- Performance of China and India in EU’s top imported products from Extra-EU ($ millions) 41- Fashion Tips 34- Export of articles of apparel and clothing accessories major countries 35- Export of textile items to ASEAN countries SUSTAINABLE FIBRE 19- Clothing from Himalayan Nettle Fibre POST SHOW REPORT 22- ITMACH 2017 23- HEIMTEXTIL 2018 TECHNICAL ARTICLE 24- Electrochemical Processing -an eco friendly Technology in Textile by Professors of SVVV ASSOCIATION NEWS 28- AEPC 29- CITI 30- SRTEPC 32 REVIEW OF TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN NEWS 21- Colorant Ltd., sponsors SDC Technical Seminar held at Bangalore 27- Karl Mayer creates niche in the Ichalkaranji Market 31- Women apparel brand Shree growing in double digits by using Liva fabric 31- Applied DNA Sciences Expands Internationally with New Central DNA Testing Laboratory in India 33- Asian convergence once more at Screen Print India show 34- HM Apologises After Severe Backlash Over Racist ‘Coolest Monkey In The Jungle’ Ad Campaign 36- Anamika Khanna To Reinvent Nudes At LFW 36- BIBA Launches ‘BIBA Ready-To-Stitch Collection’ Exclusively On Amazon.in 37- SHOW CALENDAR EDITORIAL TEAM Editor and Publisher Ms. Jigna Shah Graphic Designer Mr. Anant A. Jogale Sales Manager Mr. Md. Tanweer Chief Editor Mr. Bhavesh Thakar Editorial Assistant Mrs. Namsha INDUSTRY Mr. Devchand Chheda City Editor - Vyapar ( Janmabhumi Group) Mr. Manohar Samuel President, Birla Cellulose, Grasim Industries Dr. M. K. Talukdar VP, Kusumgar Corporates Mr. Shailendra Pandey VP (Head – Sales and Marketing), Indian Rayon Mr. Ajay Sharma GM RSWM (LNJ Bhilwara Group) Mr. Avinash Mayekar Consulting Editor EDUCATION / RESEARCH Mr. B.V. Doctor HOD knitting, SASMIRA Dr. Ela Dedhia Associate Professor, Nirmala Niketan College Dr. Mangesh D. Teli Professor, Dean ICT Dr. S.K. Chattopadhyay Principal Scientist and Head MPD Dr. Rajan Nachane Retired Scientist, CIRCOT Back Page: Raymond Back Inside: Silverline Fashion Front Inside: Raysil Page 3: Pranera Textiles Page 4: Linen Fiesta Page 5: SGS Innovation Page 6: Sanjay Plastic Page 7: Bajaj Fab Page 8: Parekh Agencies Page 35: Kenny Fabrics Page 42: GTTES 2019 Page 43: Devshree Fabrics Page 44: SKBS Page 45: Vora Associate Nilesh Textiles Page 46: RSWM
  • 12. www.textilevaluechain.com12 January 2018 EDITORIAL Ms. Jigna Shah Editor and Publisher All rights reserved Worldwide; Reproduction of any of the content from this issue is prohibited without explicit written permission of the publisher. Every effort has been made to ensure and present factual and accurate information. The views expressed in the articles published in this magazine are that of the respective authors and not necessarily that of the publisher. Textile Value chain is not responsible for any unlikely errors that might occur or any steps taken based in the information provided herewith. Registered Office Innovative Media and Information Co. 189/5263, Sanmati, Pantnagar, Ghatkopar (East), Mumbai 400075. Maharashtra, INDIA. Tel : +91-22-21026386 Cell: +91-9769442239 Email: info@textilevaluechain.com tvcmedia2012@gmail.com Web: www.textilevaluechain.com Owner, Publisher, Printer and Editor Ms. Jigna Shah Printed and Processed by her at, Impression Graphics, Gala no.13, Shivai Industrial Estate, Andheri Kurla Road, Sakinaka, Andheri (East), Mumbai 400072, Maharashtra, India. ASEAN Indian Relationship… Recently Textiles Minister Smriti Irani observed the fact that India has potential to become the one-stop sourcing destination for brands and retailers from ASEAN countries, as opportunities exist for textile manufac- turers from the 10-nation block to invest here and cater to the domestic market as well as exports. ASEAN (Asso- ciation of Southeast Asian Nations) is a multilateral body whose member countries include Thailand, Indonesia, Singapore, Brunei, Laos, Myanmar, Cambodia, Malaysia, Philippines and Vietnam. India has strength and ability to produce a diverse range of products and export almost all kinds of textiles and apparel including all handloom and handicraft products that demonstrate the unique skill of the country’s weavers and artisans. In the year 2016, India exported textiles and apparel worth USD 1,203 million to ASEAN and imported textiles and apparel worth USD 546 million from ASEAN. India-ASEAN relations can forge to ensure that we can give better manufacturing opportunities, better wage opportunities and also help strength- ening our legacies in textiles. TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN Magazine is celebrating 5th Anniversary with this issue. We would like to thank all our stakeholders like Subscribers, Advertisers, Suppliers, Well wishers, Friends, Authors / Article Contributors and many more. Without their positive support, the journey would never have been such wonderful and pleas- ant...!!! This Journey will continue with lot of innovation, creativity and meaningful association with everyone in time to come..!!! Wish you a Productive Budgeting Period..!!!
  • 13. 13www.textilevaluechain.comJanuary 2018 Exports of cotton fail to pick, yarn lingers in December Cotton exportsdeclined in December with shipment of 1.4 million bales (170 kg each) as against 1.6 million bales exported a year ago in a situation where marketactivity was disrupted by demonetisation of high currency notes. The slowdown this year appears to have been played by rising prices in domestic market and lower than expected harvest due to pink pest attack in major cotton growing regions. Contracts are cancelled to take advantage of rac- ing domestic prices in a period when prices do not tend to rise generally. Thus, the first three months of 2017-18 cotton marketing year, recorded shipment of 2.11 million bales as against 2.16 million bales in the corresponding months of previous year. It also suggests that the cost of cancellation of contracts is much lower than the returns in selling in domestic market. The price realization averaged INR 106 a kg or US cents 75.54 per pound in December as against the Cotlook Index ‘A’ averaging at 88.50 per pound and spot Shankar-6 at US cents 81.02 per pound for the month. November had FOB values average US cents 90.68 per pound US cents 15 higher than local prices. The same re- versed in December where FOB values were US cents 5 lower than local numbers. Bangladesh, Vietnam and China were the largest import- ers of cotton with combined volumes at 1.13 million bales amongst the 21 countries that imported cotton from In- dia in December. Shipment to Pakistan more than halved from 93 thousand bales last December to just 44 thou- sand bales this month. New importers this December include Italy, Djibouti, Swit- zerland, Germany and Congo although small quantities were exported. No exports were done to these destina- tions in December 2016. Among major cotton buyers, Taiwan, Turkey and Singa- pore substantially reduced their import this December while a dramatic spurt was seen in shipment to Mauritius. Cotton yarn exports linger, polyester yarn surges Spun yarn including cotton yarn exports edged down in December, but higher price realization pegged values in US$ term up 4.4%. Export totaled 126 million kg during the month, down 1.4% year on year worth US$ 375 million. Unit value realization averaged US$ 2.96 per kgup US cents 2 from previous month, and US cents 17up compared to last year. Meanwhile the INR appreciated from INR 67 to INR 64 this year. Yarn exports to the largest buyer, China declined 20% both in terms of volume and value during December. It still accounted for 32% of all yarn shipped during the month. A year ago, the share was close to 37%. Cotton yarn export at 104 million kg worth US$ 312mil- lion (INR 1,990 crore) was down 3.5% in November as 75 countries imported yarn at an average unit price re- alization of US$ 3.01a kg, US cents 3more than previous month and US cents 16 higher than last year China continued to cut its import of cotton yarn from In- dia by 4% in November and further by 18% in December in value terms, but still accounted for 35% of total ship- ment during December followed by Bangladesh and Pa- kistan.16 countries did not import any cotton yarn from India as they did last December. They were replaced by 11other countries which imported yarn worth US$ 1.75million. Kenya, Syria, Czech Republic, Vietnam and Italy were among the fastest growing large markets for cotton yarn in December while Indonesia, USA and Brazil reduced their import significantly compared to last year. 100% man-made fibre yarns export also moderated in volume but higher price realisation more than compen- sated the loss in December.MMF yarnscomprised 4.2mil- lion kg of polyester yarn, 1.7 million kg of viscose yarn and 1.6 million kg of acrylic yarn. Polyester yarn exports jumped 23% in value while viscose yarn exports value de- clined 11% during the month. Acrylic yarn exports inched up 1.5% while volumes jumped 13% at lower price realiza- tion. Polyester spun yarns were exported to 49 countries at average unit price realization of US$ 2.39 a kg. Turkey re- mained the largest importer of polyester yarn, followed by Brazil and USA. Source: Fibre to Yarn Export Statistics – India report of December 2017 EXPORT YARN REPORT
  • 14. www.textilevaluechain.com14 January 2018 Fibre to yarn pricing trend in December Cotton Cotton prices in India continued to surge in December de- spite the usual peak marketing season. Spot prices were up INR 1,490-5,015 per candy during the month, with benchmark S h a n k a r - 6 traded at INR 39,925 per candy on an aver- age. Daily arrivals were restricted to around 1.50- 2 . 0 0 l a k h bales in a month where they usually touch 3.00 lakh bales. This was push- ing millers into panic buying as framers were holding crop back in anticipation of a price boost later. Also crop pro- duction is likely to be smaller than expected due to pest attack in major cotton growing state of Maharashtra. Outside India, global spot benchmark, Cotlook A index 8% or US cents 6.50 to notch a seven-month high at US cents 87.20 per pound. US Cotton futures on the ICE also hovered close to seven- month highs as sustained speculative demand helped March contract gain for nine straight weeks. Cotton con- tracts for March averaged US cents 76.70 per pound after matching all-time high for the contract at US cents 78.07 per pound in the first half of December. The surge was due to combination of spec and trade buying continued to chase values higher, expert stated also adding that the current bull run had little to do with cotton availability, but was more to the result of mills having accumulated a record amount of unfixed on-call sales. In China, spot cotton market showed some improvement on the back of the surge in imports, but prices remained slightly low. Xinjiang-origin grade-3128 cotton in Henan were quoted at 15.60-15.70 Yuan per metric ton (US cents 108 per pound). Meanwhile, the China Cotton Index mod- erated 174 Yuan to 15,764 Yuan per metric ton. In Pakistan, buyers sought all grades of cotton during December which kept physical prices firm and forward deals fortified their long positions. The KCA rate gained PakRs 412 at PakRs 7,057 per maund. Meanwhile, cotton imports from India was delayed due to procedural delays and issuance of permits that are valid from 1 January, cot- ton import will take off then. Cotton Yarn Cotton yarn markets were active in India and Pakistan where prices jumped on support of firming cotton while in China they were slightly weak in amid moderating transactions. Cotton yarn 16s was offered at 15.25 Yuan a kg (US$ 2.32 a kg) and 32s at 23.11 Yuan a kg (US$ 3.51 a kg) in Shengze. In Pakistan, cotton yarn prices began mov- ing up sharply on the domestic market, due to fresh surge in cotton cost week after week. Cotton import prices also increased sharply due to the surge of international prices and the fall of the PakRe. In Faisalabad, 32s cotton combed yarn rose PakRs 4 to PakRs 143-158 per pound (US$ 2.19-3.15 a kg, down US cents 3-4 due to weak Pa- kRe). In India, 30s combed cotton yarn for knitting were at INR 191.75 a kg (US$ 2.99 a kg, up US cents 3) while export offers jumped US cents 8 to US$ 3.07 a kg. Polyester P o l y e s t e r staple fibre prices edged down in Chi- na, rose in Pakistan and India during December. U p s t r e a m PTA cost was seen moder- ating later in the month while MEG remained firm at higher level. In China, PSF offers fell but strong currency negated the moderation. In Jiangsu and Zhejiang, offers for 1.4D direct-melt PSF were at US$ 1.33- 1.36 a kg. PSF market in India moved sideways with side- linedstance and offers averaged INR 90.25 a kg for 1.2D or US$ 1.41 a kg and 1.4-2D at INR 93.50 a kg (US$ 1.46 a kg). In Pakistan, producers lifted offers while weaker Pa- kRe made imports costlier. 1.4D PSF prices were at PakRs .140-142 a kg (US$ 1.28-1.30 a kg, down US cent 1 due to weak currency), while import prices were up at US$ 1.18 a kg, CNF Karachi. Polyester yarn prices were down across India, Pakistan and China during December, irrespective of change in PSF cost. Offers for polyester yarn in China were down US cents 2-4 in December with 32s at US$ 2.03 a kg while 45s fell to US$ 2.18 a kg. In India, polyester yarn 30 knit yarn fell INR 5to INR 139.75 a kg or US$ $2.02 a kg, down US cents 6 in Ludhiana market. YARN REPORT
  • 15. 15www.textilevaluechain.comJanuary 2018 Polyester intermediates Purified terephthalic acid markets after moving higher en- tering December gradually moved into a weak zone later in the month as prices remained flat to down in the sec- ond fortnight and moderated in the week before Christ- mas Day holiday. Prices could not be swayed away by the recovery in paraxylene markets. In China, spot PTA prices were firm as suppliers kept offers for bonded goods and for nearby-month cargoes unchanged. In US and Europe, demand for PTA was flat pegging prices stable. Asian PTA marker, CFR China were 4% or US$ 26 higher in Decem- ber, due to earlier rise, to US$ 715-717 per ton. In India, prices were at US$ 740 per ton CIF. Mono ethylene glycol prices in Asia were up in December but the hike was moderated by weakening demand from the downstream industry. MEG spot prices inched up US$ 19 on the month with CFR China at US$ 920-925 per ton and CFR South East Asia to US$ 942-947 per ton. Euro- pean MEG spot truck prices slipped as markets ended on a quiet note ahead of Christmas break. Truck spot prices were assessed at a decrease of Euro 20 at Euro 863 per ton. In US, MEG prices were stable as there was some de- mand coming from the de-icing and anti-freeze sectors due to winter weather. Auspicious Marriage Dates Shubh Vivah Muhurat Nakshatra For Marriage Tithi For Marriage 24th February (Saturday) 06:55 to 30:54+ Rohini, Mrigashirsha Navami, Dashami 01st March (Thursday) 19:37 to 23:48 Magha Purnima 05th March (Monday) 20:18 to 30:45+ Swati Chaturthi, Panchami 06th March (Tuesday) 06:45 to 17:46 Swati Panchami 08th March (Thursday) 14:47 to 24:45+ Anuradha Saptami 10th March (Saturday) 10:13 to 18:43 Mula Navami 12th March (Monday) 11:13 to 20:39 Uttara Ashadha Ekadashi 18th April (Wednesday) 24:28+ to 29:55+ Rohini Tritiya, Chaturthi 19th April (Thursday) 05:55 to 12:19 Rohini Chaturthi 23:07 to 29:54+ Mrigashirsha Panchami 20th April (Friday) 05:54 to 11:12 Mrigashirsha Panchami 24th April (Tuesday) 21:46 to 29:49+ Magha Dashami 25th April (Wednesday) 05:49 to 15:06 Magha Dashami, Ekadashi 27th April (Friday) 14:42 to 29:47+ Hasta Trayodashi 28th April (Saturday) 05:47 to 13:53 Hasta Trayodashi, Chaturdashi 29th April (Sunday) 18:29 to 29:45+ Swati Purnima 30th April (Monday) 05:45 to 10:24 Swati Pratipada 01st May (Tuesday) 15:57 to 29:43+ Anuradha Dwitiya 04th May (Friday) 05:42 to 22:33 Mula Chaturthi, Panchami 05th May (Saturday) 25:34+ to 29:40+ Uttara Ashadha Shashthi 06th May (Sunday) 05:40 to 15:55 Uttara Ashadha Shashthi 11th May (Friday) 13:47 to 29:36+ Uttara Bhadrapada Ekadashi, Dwadashi 12th May (Saturday) 05:36 to 29:35+ Uttara Bhadrapada, Revati Dwadashi, Trayodashi 18th June (Monday) 05:27 to 26:47+ Magha Panchami, Shashthi 21st June (Thursday) 05:28 to 25:27+ Hasta Navami 23rd June (Saturday) 05:28 to 15:32 Swati Ekadashi 25th June (Monday) 05:29 to 29:29+ Anuradha Trayodashi 27th June (Wednesday) 21:15 to 29:29+ Mula Purnima 28th June (Thursday) 05:29 to 12:22 Mula Purnima, Pratipada 05th July (Thursday) 12:41 to 29:32+ Uttara Bhadrapada Saptami, Ashtami 10th July (Tuesday) 20:26 to 29:35+ Rohini, Mrigashirsha Trayodashi 11th July (Wednesday) 05:35 to 15:34 Mrigashirsha Trayodashi Reference : https://www.drikpanchang.com MARRAIGE MUHURAT 2018 YARN REPORT
  • 16. www.textilevaluechain.com16 January 2018 India’s TC Export to EU Market (Apr-Jul’ 2017) India exported $ 12.30 Bn of TC to the World during Apr- Jul’ 2017 out of which the export to EU is about $ 3.18 Bn. The EU contributed about 25.86% to the aggregate export basket of TC of India and hence played a crucial role for the country. It may be noted here that India’s export has declined to $3.18 Bn from $ 3.20 Bn during the same period of the previous year. Even if, our TC export to the rest of world has increased slightly, the decline in export to EU indi- cates that India may be loosing its presence in this impor- tant destination to competitors like China, Bangladesh, Vietnam and Pakistan etc. y India’s aggregate export of Textiles to EU (HS Chapter 50 to 60) was $ 0.65 billion during Apr-Jul’ 2017, which is 13.97 percent of India’s total textiles exports to the world. The export of textiles has experienced a growth of 3.97% during the period as compared to previous period. y India’s aggregate export of Clothing to EU (HS Chapter 61 to 63) was $ 2.53 billion during Apr-Jul’ 2017 which is 33.07 percent of India’s total clothing exports to the world. The export of clothing has experienced a nega- tive growth of 1.49% during the period as compared to previous period. y Top 20 Products (whose share is more than 1%) has contributed 50.02 percent to the export basket in EU market during Apr-Jul’ 2017. y The share of these top 20 products was 50.20 percent in the same period of 2016. Comments y India’s export to EU has experienced highest negative growth (-13.60%) in April, 2017 as compared to the same period in 2016, but reversed in the subsequent month. y The month wise fluctuation of the export from India is visible in the trend. y Some of the policy issues like granting New EU GSP Plus scheme to Pakistan, signing up of FTA by EU with Vietnam and growing intra EU trade may be influencing the TC export performance of India. India’s Top Performing Products in EU market (Apr– Jul’ 2017) ƒ The major 8 products have experienced positive growth in India’s export basket during April–July’ 2017 as com- pared to the same period during 2016 are as follows y The export of products like 63053219, 61099020, 52052300 and 61072100 have increased with a growth of 21.50%, 8.31%, 34.83% and 16.49% respectively; which is quite promising from the export perspective of the country. India’s Top Products having negative growth (Apr–Jul’ 2017) ƒ Major 12 products have experienced negative growth during April –July’ 2017 as compared to the same pe- riod during 2016 Table-2 India’s TC Exports to EU (Mn. $) Fig-1 Change in the exports Source: Eurostat Month April-July 2016 2017 % Change April 893.59 772.09 -13.60% May 779.62 845.53 8.45% June 783.58 774.19 -1.20% July 740.63 790.31 6.71% Apr-July 3197.43 3182.12 -0.48% -13.60 8.45 -1.20 6.71 April May June July Table-3: Top performing products of India (Mn.$) Products Descriptions Apr-Jul’ 2016 Apr-Jul’ 2017 % change 62063000 Women's or girls blouses, shirts of cotton, not knitted 8.2100 114.01 5.37% 63053219 Flexible intermediate bulk containers, for packing of goods, of polyethylene or polypropylene strips, (excl. knitted or crocheted) 73.21 88.94 21.50% 62044200 Women's or girls dresses of cotton, not knitted 59.72 63.26 5.93% 62044300 Women's or girls dresses of synthetic fibres , not knitted 60.51 62.01 2.48% 61099020 T-shirts, singlets of artificial fibres, knitted 48.59 52.63 8.31% 52052300 Single cotton yarn, of combed fibres, containing =85% cotton by weight 23.90 32.22 34.83% 61071100 Men's or boys underpants and briefs of cotton, knitted .8830 31.56 2.19% 61072100 Men's or boys nightshirts of cotton, knitted or crocheted 25.94 30.22 16.49% Total 430.96 474.87 10.19% Source: Eurostat 62052000 Men's or boys shirts of cotton, not knitted 99.25 93.74 -5.56% 61046200 Women's or girls trousers, bib and brace overalls of cotton, knitted 74.34 73.29 -1.42% 62044400 Women's or girls dresses of artificial fibres, not knitted 76.32 60.01 -21.37% 63026000 Toilet linen and kitchen linen, of terry towelling of cotton 61.36 58.23 -5.11% 61051000 Men's or boys shirts of cotton, knitted or crocheted 50.39 49.65 -1.47% 61083100 Women's or girls nightdresses of cotton, knitted 48.86 46.41 -5.01% 62114390 Women’s or girls’ other garments of manmade fibres, not knitted 49.45 39.34 -20.45% 61044200 Women's or girls' dresses, of cotton, knitted 36.39 32.61 -10.40% 62034235 Men's or boys' trousers of cotton, woven 32.22 31.09 -3.48% Total 1091.65 1033.52 -5.33% Source: Eurostat Table-4: Top Products having negative growth (Mn $) Products Descriptions Apr-Jul’ 2016 Apr-Jul’ 2017 % change 61091000 T-shirts, singlets and other vests of cotton, knitted 279.23 277.07 -0.77% 62064000 Women's or girls blouses, shirts of man- made fibres, not knitted 169.94 160.71 -5.43% 61112090 Babies' garments accessories, of cotton, 113.89 111.37 -2.21% EU MARKET REPORT EU MARKET STUDY BY TEXTILE COMMITTEE
  • 17. 17www.textilevaluechain.comJanuary 2018 Even if, most of these 12 products have grown positively during last five years prior to 2016 except Men’s or boys shirts of cotton, not knitted (62052000), Toilet linen and kitchen linen, of terry toweling of cotton (63026000) Men’s or boys shirts of cotton, knitted or crocheted (61051000), these product have experienced negative growth during last five year. Countries like Cambodia, Pa- kistan, Bangladesh, Vietnam, Spain, Poland Myanmar have gained market share in the EU during last five years. The surge in the export from these countries may be the key factor for the decline in the India’s export to EU. Further, out of 12 products, 9 are cotton based products, in which India has traditionally been performing well in most of the export destinations. The negative growth in these cotton based products may be one of the reasons for decline in the export of TC in EU, and decline in the cotton based products may be a concern for the India’s export basket for achieving desirable growth in future. It may be noted that while China is able to maintain its position as number one exporter of TC, India has fallen down to 4th position from 2nd position during last few years, which may be matter of concern for the Indian tex- tiles sector may create difficulties in future in accelerat- ing export growth to these destinations needed for bol- stering our TC exports to the world. Annexure-I Table-1: Top Importing Products of EU from Extra-EU($ millions) Products Descriptions Apr-Jul' 2016 Apr-Jul' 2017 %change 61091000 T-shirts, singlets and other vests of cotton, knitted or crocheted: Of cotton 2386.07 2420.67 6.11% 61099020 T-shirts, singlets and other vests of textile materials, knitted or crocheted (excl. cotton): Of artificial fibres 1127.75 1061.78 2.68% 61103099 Women's jerseys, pullovers, cardigans, waistcoats and similar articles, of man-made fibres, 946.82 906.38 2.29% 62034231 Men's trousers and breeches of cotton denim 895.83 855.23 2.16% 62064000 Women's blouses, shirts and shirt-blouses of man- made fibres (excl. knitted or crocheted and vests): Of man-made fibres 795.29 813.52 2.05% 62052000 Men's shirts of cotton (excl. knitted or crocheted, nightshirts, singlets and other vests): Of cotton 865.43 804.03 2.03% 62046231 Women's cotton denim trousers and breeches 701.38 793.16 2.00% 62034235 Men's trousers and breeches of cotton 797.62 721.88 1.82% 62121090 Brassieres of all types of textile materials, whether or not elasticated 707.68 716.12 1.81% 61102099 Women's jerseys, pullovers, cardigans, waistcoats and similar articles, of cotton, 624.02 637.14 1.61% 62046239 Women's trousers and breeches, of cotton 651.13 621.82 1.57% 61046200 Women's trousers, bib and brace overalls, breeches and shorts of cotton 611.44 601.81 1.52% 63079098 Made-up articles of textile materials, incl. dress patterns, n.e.s. 520.63 566.82 1.43% 61112090 Babies' garments and clothing accessories, of cotton, 562.80 561.36 1.42% 61102091 Men's jerseys, pullovers, cardigans, waistcoats of cotton, 497.41 531.95 1.34% 62029300 Women's anoraks, windcheaters, wind jackets of man-made fibres 521.59 528.24 1.33% 62019300 Men's anoraks, windcheaters, wind jackets of man- made fibres 485.19 525.58 1.33% 61051000 Men's shirts of cotton, knitted or crocheted 490.82 516.51 1.30% 62044300 Women's dresses of synthetic fibres 465.47 478.03 1.21% 61159500 Full-length or knee-length stockings, socks of cotton 443.22 450.67 1.14% 62034290 Men's or boys' shorts of cotton 446.00 442.66 1.12% Total 15543.59 15555.37 0.08% Source: Eurostat EU MARKET REPORT
  • 18. www.textilevaluechain.com18 January 2018 China Bangladesh Turkey India Pakistan RoW EUimport from Extra-EU Apr-Jul' 2016 Apr-Jul' 2017 -0.29% -0.69% -0.43% 8.13% 3.32% 2.70% Germany Italy Netherlands France Spain RoEU EUimport from Intra-EU Apr-Jul' 2016 Apr-Jul' 2017 4.56% 2.33% 6.94% -1.00% 7.44% -0.16% Table-2: Performance of China and India in EU’s top imported products from Extra-EU ($ millions) China in EU market India in EU market Products Apr-Jul’ 2016 Apr-Jul’ 2017 %Change Apr-Jul’ 2016 Apr-Jul’ 2017 %Change 61091000 154.32 159.11 3.11% 279.23 277.07 -0.77% 61099020 217.56 211.08 -2.98% 48.59 52.63 8.31% 61103099 422.5 410.92 -2.74% 7.73 8.28 7.12% 62034231 70.66 61.56 -12.88% 15.09 12.79 -15.21% 62064000 217.49 229.37 5.46% 169.94 160.71 -5.43% 62052000 141 129.57 -8.11% 99.25 93.74 -5.56% 62046231 106.3 112.29 5.64% 6.87 5.56 -19.01% 62034235 101.31 89.66 -11.50% 32.22 31.09 -3.48% 62121090 343.1 334.99 -2.37% 5.82 7.24 24.37% 61102099 201.46 196.94 -2.24% 27.62 26.78 -3.05% 62046239 146.51 136.84 -6.60% 17.1 14.15 -17.23% 61046200 83.34 77.66 -6.81% 74.34 73.29 -1.42% 63079098 336.48 385.08 14.44% 15.53 15.11 -2.73% 61112090 191.19 179.32 -6.21% 113.89 111.37 -2.21% 61102091 148.92 159.45 7.07% 23.79 26.14 9.87% 62029300 356.42 358.3 0.53% 2.41 2.74 13.70% 62019300 309.67 324.82 4.89% 0.51 0.95 84.25% 61051000 54.83 59.91 9.26% 50.39 49.65 -1.47% 62044300 228.79 241.43 5.52% 60.51 62.01 2.48% 61159500 147.12 167.75 14.02% 9.48 9.29 -1.97% 62034290 59.79 56.88 -4.87% 20.8 20.01 -3.79% 63026000 46.87 47.71 1.78% 61.36 58.23 -5.11% Total 4085.61 4130.63 1.10% 1142.49 1118.84 -2.07% Source: Eurostat EU MARKET REPORT TOP EXPORTERS TO EU (EXTRA INTRA) DURING APR-JULY 2017 ($BN)
  • 19. 19www.textilevaluechain.comJanuary 2018 One major hazard that the synthetics pose to the environ- ment is that many of them take more than five hundred years to decompose. On the other hand, most natural fibres are biodegradable and sustainable, provided that eco-friendly techniques are adopted at every stage of their production and disposal. Because of recent issues like rising costs of petroleum-based fibres and their im- pact on environment and sustainable development, nat- ural fibres have once again found a niche in the global textile market. Along with this, growing global population leading to increased demand for textiles is increasing the risk of greater environmental impact. To resolve these issues, many industrialized nations have for long been looking for natural biodegradable alternatives for syn- thetics, to be applied to a wide variety of uses along with/ apart from textiles. On the other hand, in the natural fi- bre sector, cotton is an undisputed ruler with its annual global production crossing over 25 million tons in past few years, followed by wool (FAO, 2005). In the foothills of Nepal’s Himalayas, the Himalayan sting- ing nettle plants grows naturally in the wild. Ellie Skeele, founder of Himalayan Wild Fibers, is in the process of developing the nettle fiber industry with the local com- munity. According to the Center for Sustainable Fashion, Himalayan nettle is the longest fiber currently known to humankind and is considered finer, stronger, and more elastic than linen. The development of this fiber would create work and income for many Nepalis and bring a du- rable and sustainable textile to market. The Himalayan nettle plants hold soil in place and help prevent landslides and erosion. They are grown without chemical fertilizers but with regular cutting of the stocks, according to Himalayan Wild Fibers. Most recently, Ellie Skeele and her team explored the possibilities of working with Thami villagers, an indigenous group of Nepal, in col- lecting nettle from their forests. Currently, Himalayan Wild Fibers is seeking a designer to spin different blends of Himalayan nettle with other fab- rics. Himalayan Nettle – the Fiber of the Future? Fibre-yielding plant, Himalayan nettle (Girardinia diversi- folia), is found to be occurring abundantly in the Garh- wal region of Uttarakhand. It was lying unexplored until 7-8 years back, when on realizing its potential in the field of textiles, many organizations in the region initiated Research and Development activity on the possibilities of handloom based product development in nettle. Re- search and Development in this field, is mostly aimed at generating livelihood opportunities for the rural people of Garhwal. While the Himalayan communities in Uttara- khand, traditionally associated with extracting fibres from nettle and hemp for rope-making, are no longer practic- ing the craft, Bhotia weaver community, at Mangroli vil- lage, Chamoli (UBFDB cluster) has learnt and mastered the technique of nettle fibre processing. However, lack of design intervention has led to a situa- tion, where nettle products developed here, could not establish a significant market. It was also observed, that a lot of skills possessed by the community at the cluster were not being explored fully for developing nettle based products. This experimental study has explored possibilities of de- sign intervention/product development at different stag- es of fibre processing, based on the skills available with the Bhotia weaver community. As a result, a wide range of designs – fibre, yarns, woven material and products – have been developed, which can have potential market value and can add effectively to the chain of existing de- signs in nettle. Based on the results, it can be concluded that nettle is laden with possibilities and opportunities, and nettle based design development has a lot of scope. However, the interests and traditions of the communities involved in the production process should be maintained. With the growing importance and popularity of concepts like green, eco-friendly, sustainability, etc. natural fibres seem to have become an obvious choice for enlightened producers and consumers of textiles. Even though the synthetic alternatives can be obtained easily, in wide va- rieties and (in most cases) at low prices as compared to natural fibres, the threats related with their extensive production and use cannot be ruled out. However, many researches and arguments led to a con- clusion that cotton despite being a natural fiber, is one of the most unsustainable crops owing to the extensive use of fertilizers and pesticides in its production. And the other important fibre, silk, is engulfed in a moral war of being cruel. Even though concepts like organic cotton and ‘ahimsa’ silk have well been established, the costs and labor involved in their production are quite high. In this case, it becomes an urgent need to identify and promote natural fibres other than cotton and silk. Global textile in- dustry has been looking for alternative fibres, which can reduce our heavy reliance on cotton. As a result, minor natural fibres like jute, hemp, linen, etc. have gained pop- ularity in commercial textiles since last two decades. Nettle can be considered as one of the latest to be added in the list of possible commercial fibre, and the biggest advantage it holds is that it can be 100% sustainable. Nettle is a bast fibre obtained from the stem of the wild growing stinging nettle plant, found in the temperate re- CLOTHING FROM HIMALAYAN NETTLE FIBRE SUSTAINABLE FIBRE
  • 20. www.textilevaluechain.com20 January 2018 gions of the world. Countries like UK and Germany, have been involved in the development of this fibre since 1999, and have made considerable growth in this direction. A number of researches have been conducted not only in developing commercial textiles using nettle, but also in the cultivation and propagation of the crop in the most sustainable manner. Significant development. Has been recorded in the processes of cultivation and fibre extrac- tion by many renowned European organizations, insti- tutes and companies. India, has also realized the importance and potential of this wealth naturally found in abundance in the Himala- yas. Especially after looking at landmark developments by the neighboring country Nepal in nettle fibre production and exports at a Small and Medium Enterprise level, Utta- rakhand has been recognized as one Indian state, poten- tial for nettle fibre development. Through initial surveys conducted by Uttarakhand Bamboo and Fibre Develop- ment Board for resource quantification in three blocks of Chamoli district of Uttarakhand, it was estimated that a total of 770 square kilometer area has naturally growing nettle (Himalayan nettle, Girardinia diversifolia), which can provide 24704.26 tons raw dried fibre annually (Lep- cha, Bahti and Kumar, 2009). Apart from Uttarakhand, the plant is found in Jammu and Kashmir, Himachal Pradesh, Sikkim and Arunachal Pradesh as well. Development in nettle fibre can not only make India contribute in sustainable development in the field of textiles, but can also help the rural hill population in terms of income generation, providing sustainable live- lihood to many people. Himalayan nettle is a perennial plant found growing in temperate and sub-tropical Himalayas, between 1200 to 2900 meters above sea level. It is largely found grow- ing wild in the broad leaf forests with high leaf litter and moisture as well as in the outskirts of villages of Uttara- khand. Clothing made from nettle is not a new idea, since the past thousands year people have worn fabrics made from the Himalayan nettle. But nettle lost their popular- ity when synthetic and other fibers arrived in the market. Considering the potential of this fiber, Uttarakhand Bam- boo Fiber Development Board is promoting eco-friend- ly natural fiber as livelihood option to the hill people spe- cially Bhotia community of Uttarakhand who are crafting variety of products in nettle fiber. PRODUCTION OF NETTLE FIBRE AND YARN The company has started for the development of nettle fiber and yarns. In the beginning time, they collect nettle yarns from villagers where they make the yarns for them- selves. There was too much wastage thread in village no any supply and the company collect that thread and start- ed to supply in carpets. But this thread wasn’t exportable so that it was searching for good yarn and fiber and it is success to made good quality yarns from 2009. Also it was Exporting little and limit fiber and thread before because, that time not a good quality. But 2009 it make good fiber and yarn by organic method and started to Export all over the world. Specially Europe and USA. All the production are totally handmade, 100% Natural and without chemi- cal use so it is called as “ORGANIC PRODUCTION”. Since the plant grows in abundance, there is no need for any chemical fertilizers or other unnatural additives to artificially stimulate the plants growth, making the whole operation sustainable and environment-friendly. PROPERTIES OF NETTLE FIBRE : Special inherent charac- teristics of nettle fiber make it very different from other fibers and have unique prosperities like: Though common nettle (urtica dioica) and Himalayan nettle (girardinia diversifolia) are biologically similar, their fibers are quite different. Himalayan nettle is the long- est fiber currently known to humankind and spinners at a Italian fabric manufacturer have deemed it finer, yet stronger and more elastic, than linen. The fiber is not just sustainable; it actually improves the environment in which it grows by helping to control ero- sion and preventing deadly landslides. Collection of the giant Himalayan nettle plant creates income for Nepali vil- lagers and we are producing fiber using low tech methods to create income opportunities for yet more Nepalis. The nettle fibre is characterized by its fine sheen. It has high tensile strength and its loft is similar to that of cotton. Nettle fibres are extremely absorbent. The Center of Sustainable Fashion claims that the Himala- yan nettle is stronger, finer and more flexible than regular linen, indicating that eco-friendly clothing made from it will be more durable and of better quality. ƒ Hollow core useful in creating fabrics with thermal properties, both warm and cool ƒ Reputedly antimicrobial, antibacterial and fire retard- ant ƒ Great resistance to wrinkling Benefits of Himalayan nettle yarn ƒ 100% organic ƒ From a sustainable source ƒ More environmentally friendly than cotton ƒ Elegant, fine and durable Pure nettle fibre (matt finish) or nettle fibre silk (for a sheen finish) are perfect choices If you’re looking for something that is highly decorative and detailed and light to touch, ideal for spring and summer. Nettle Fibre with Pashmina or Angora wool mixes are rec- ommended if you’re looking for the beautiful hand craft- ed detail, but with added warmth. The scarves and shawls are not only attractive to look at, but are also very environmentally friendly. SUSTAINABLE FIBRE
  • 21. 21www.textilevaluechain.comJanuary 2018 Nettle fibre is a great alternative to cotton and is much kinder on the environment. Cotton production takes a heavy toll on the environment as the cotton plant is greedy for water, and the use of pesticides and herbicides is widespread in its production, in fact almost one quar- ter of pesticides used in the world are sprayed on to cot- ton plants! The nettles used to make this scarf are grown 100% organically, with the rich soils in the Himalayan val- leys supplying the plant with all the nutrients it needs. Hand-knitted by members of the Kulung Rai hill tribe , the scarves and shawls provide a much needed livelihood for this poverty-stricken community. Blending : The Italian fabric manufacturer spun and wove a 50/50 viscose/Himalayan nettle sample. The manufacturer was interested in reducing the amount of Himalayan nettle, combining with one or more fibers and moving forward. Nettle and Pashmina Scarf ,100% Nettle Scarf,100% Net- tle Shawl , Nettle and silk mix scarf , Nettle and Angora mix Scarf are made . How to care for the nettle fibre: ƒ 1. Wash by hand in warm soapy water, rinse well and pull into shape. ƒ 2. Adding a little oil to the water will help to soften the nettle. ƒ 3. It will become softer with each wash. USES OF HIMALAYAN NETTLE FIBRES: This 100% nettle yarn is hands spun from nettle fibers. Nettle yarn is been used for centuries. the yarn are wo- ven, crocheted and knitting into many different items - very thing from clothing, ceremonial accessories, fishing nets, bags etc.. This 100% natural yarn is made without use of chemicals or machines. Nettle is naturally found in the wild. Yarns have texture similar to natural linen like linen will soften with wear. It’s also known as “Allo”. These delicate hand-knitted scarves and shawls are avail- able in four different varieties; pure nettle fibre as well as nettle fibre mixed either with pashmina, angora or silk. They are all available in two different sizes, with the ‘shawls’ being slightly wider and longer than the scarves. The very long, tough bast fibres derived from the giant Himalayan nettle have been used for thousands of years to spin durable yarns from which fishing nets and ropes were traditionally made. It was also mixed with birch pitch to attach arrowheads and feathers to arrow shafts. Be- sides its obvious suitability for utilitarian purposes, nettle fibre can also be finely worked to produce a muslin that is stronger than linen. A new clothing industry is developing in Nepal by pro- moting the use of Himalayan nettle fibers as a material for manufacturing garments. SUSTAINABLE FIBRE Dr N.N.Mahapatra President COLORANT LTD It was a half day Seminar based on ‘’ Garment Processing Green Economics ” Mr Pratap ,MD,Wonder Blues,Bangalore was the chief guest Being one of the technical speaker Dr Mahapatra ,President ,Colorant Ltd spoke about the GARMENT DYEING in which he mentioned about the Garment Dye- ing using new sustainable fibres like Milk Fibre,Soyabean Fibres,Bamboo Fibres and Pineapple Fibres and he also emphasized on the new ranges of Reactive Dyes launched by COLORANT Ltd since last few years for Garment Dye- ing which save time,energy ,water etc in dyeing of cotton garments. Dr Mahapatra also spoke about Super Critical Carbon Dye oxide ( SCo2) dyeing of polyester garments known as Waterless Dyeing and Salt free Reactive Dyeing of Cotton Garments .He gave stress on using Colorzen catioinised cotton in garments which will lead to Salt free Reactive Dyeing.He emphasized on using Colron CN and Colron SF dyes for Light/Medium shades and Colron GLX/ Colron CES dyes to be used for Dark/Heavy Dark Shades. All these dyes are giving very good results all over India and abroad . The seminar was arranged by the SDC India officials and attended by Bangalore Garment and textile process house owners,designers ,Brands Retailers and technicians . There was technical interaction between the audience and COLORANT technical team led by Dr Mahapatra,Mr Venkat ,Mr Chetan Mulani Mr Senthil Ku- mar . COLORANT Ltd ,Ahmedabad sponsors SDC Technical Seminar held at Bangalore NEWS
  • 22. www.textilevaluechain.com22 January 2018 ITMACH India, the largest textile exhibition in the country for the year 2017 concluded successfully in the capital city Gandhinagar in Gujarat, with participants from over 10 countries worldwide. The four-day exhibition was in place from December 7-10, 2017 that hosted the cream of the textile manufacturing industry and the textile engineering industry. Over 350 exhibitors exhibited at ITMACH India in three halls distinctly covering each specific area of textile man- ufacturing i.e. Spinning, Weaving and Technical Textiles, Knitting, Dyeing, Printing and Textile Processing with an exhibition area of 30,000 square meters. The exhibition had a visitor footfall of about 38,000. Gujarat being a ma- jor textile manufacturing hub, the event attracted sizable number of entrepreneurs, decision making technocrats and industry professionals. Almost all leading textile machinery manufacturers have participated in ITMACH India which helped the second edition of show to grow three fold compared to the pre- mier edition. Among the exhibitors, Saurer, LMW, CHTC, Premier, Amsler, Rotorcraft, Jingwei, Pacific Mechatronic, Picanol, ITEMA, Staubli, Haijia, Rifa, A.T.E., Fong’s, Perfect Engineering, Rimtex, PalodHimson, SPGPrints, Embee, Premier Evolvics, Yamuna Machines, Indian Textile Engi- neers, Kusters Calico, MAG Solvicsare few leading names that are well known in respective areas of textile machin- ery and technology.In terms of country, exhibitors were from Germany, Switzerland, Italy, Belgium, Turkey, Chi- na, Taiwan, South Korea and Japan along with a strong stringent of Indian exhibitors who showcased their latest ware. The exhibition encompassed products across the entire value chain of the textile manufacturing right from spin- ning, knitting, weaving, processing, garmenting to yarn and fiber. The exhibition not only created opportunities both for buyers and sellers in a significant way, it also en- sured that global participation brought the markets clos- er in terms of awareness on technology, partnerships, market opportunities and sourcing. To cap it, the state of Gujarat which holds a lot of promise in terms of success- ful industrial development in the country, played host to the stellar event. The stream of visitors had a first-hand experience of coming face to face with the latest textile machinery and technology. The exhibitors introduced them to the next generation technology that was on their shelves for ready use by the textile industry. The visitors also got to meet technical experts from leading textile machinery and technology suppliers and industry professionals. They also exchanged ideas on latest trends, developments and opportunities. The visitors have expressed satisfaction over product on display and live demonstration, sharing of knowledge and fine-tuning of ideas that was facilitated by the presence of industry leaders. The convergence of visitors from across Indian subcontinent brought vibran- cy to the event while trade delegates from the neighbor- ing states like Maharashtra, Madhya Pradesh, Rajasthan, Telangana, Karnataka and Uttar Pradesh outnumbered visitors from other states and countries. Both exhibitors and visitors were happy with the choice of the venue as they strongly felt that it was a well thought out location having adequate modern infrastructures for holding such exhibition and easy access to roads, rail- ways, sea ports and airports made it a convenient place for logistics handling. To sum it up, ITMACH India 2017 was the epitome for showcasing of excellence and innovation in textile tech- nology. It served as an accredited B2B platform for the textile industry. It facilitated business houses to avail op- portunities for investing in technology and capacity build- ing for a growing textile industry. Banking on the positive feedback from the exhibitors and visitors, 3rd ITMACH In- dia will be hosted inthe same venue from 5-8 December 2019. ITMACH India 2017 Connects Machinery Marketers To Investors, Concludes Successfully POST SHOW REPORT
  • 23. 23www.textilevaluechain.comJanuary 2018 Heimtextil 2018: Renewed growth in visitors and ex- hibitors Successful start to the new furnishing season: around 70,000 visitors from 135 countries experienced design in- novations by 2,975 international exhibitors at Heimtextil from 9 to 12 January. Urban design in the context of ar- chitecture and the hotel industry became the top topic of the international trade fair for home and contract textiles. ‘With growth on both the visitor and exhibitor side, Heim- textil has convinced across the board and underpinned its unique position as a world-leading trade fair’, says De- tlef Braun, CEO of Messe Frankfurt. Around 70,000 visi- tors, including representatives from the retail and whole- sale trade, interior decorators, design, architecture and interior design, the hotel industry and industry, benefited from the fair’s unique range of products and inspiration. For the eighth time in a row, the trade fair increased the number of participating companies; these now total 2,975 international exhibitors. In addition to global mar- ket leaders and industry leaders, Heimtextil also provided an international platform for more than 50 young design- ers and start-ups with its newcomer programme “New Next”. One of the focal points of the trade fair was con- tract furnishing and the associated focus on the target group of architects and property planners. ‘For us it was a fantastic trade fair première’, says Tom Puukko, owner of the wallpaper manufacturer Feathr from Finland. ‘We were able to generate new and excellent contacts from all parts of the world. A special highlight for us was a group of architects who stopped by our stand, enabling us to present our products to them’. Architecture meets textile design With a first-rate lecture programme, topic-specific guided tours and a prominent presentation area, namely the new Interior Architecture. Hospitality Expo in hall 4.2, Heimtextil expanded its commitment to textile contract furnishings, and with great success. Numerous architects and interior designers, hoteliers and furnishers took ad- vantage of the diverse information and networking op- portunities. ‘I considered a visit to Heimtextil as a valu- able incentive for my work, i. e. for the interior furnishings and design of shops and restaurants at the airport. I was able to make interesting contacts and discover exciting, very high-quality products’, says Jun-Florian Peine, Project Manager Retail Development Fraport AG. In the immedi- ate vicinity of the new area, carpet suppliers were able to present themselves as part of a joint presentation by the Association of German Home Textiles Manufactur- ers (Heimtex) entitled “Carpet by Heimtex”. Volker Knieß, responsible for International Sales at Toucan-T, drew a positive conclusion: ‘We found the new concept of a joint presentation interesting and are very satisfied with how the fair went. With the main focus on acoustics, flexibility and design, we appeal particularly to the architects who we encounter here at Heimtextil. The guided tours for ar- chitects in particular bring us into contact with this target group and open up interesting contacts for us’. Urbanisation is becoming a major trend topic With the “Theme Park” trend area, Heimtextil gave an outlook on the design and furnishing trends of the fu- ture. Under the title “The Future is urban”, international design experts visualised the megatrend of urbanisation. Based on the statement that more than half of the world’s population already lives in major cities, the area not only showcased the colour and material trends of the coming season, but above all real future prospects in the field of textile interior design. The London-based studio Franklin- Till directed the showcase in hall 6.0 and received great acclaim for a trend presentation that was both progres- sive as well as tangible and clear. Celebrity guests up close And the glamour factor was also once again present at Heimtextil. Barbara Schöneberger for Tapetenfabrik Gebr. Rasch and “die Maus” for P+S International pre- sented their first wallpaper collections. Enie van de Meik- lokjes and Alexander Herrmann enriched the DecoTeam’s programme with workshops. And Laura Chaplin, grand- daughter of the world-famous comedian, as brand am- bassador for the Cotton made in Africa label, drew atten- tion to the use of sustainable cotton in the textile industry. New concept 2019 Based on discussions with exhibitors and visitor surveys, Messe Frankfurt has developed a new Heimtextil concept for 2019. ‘From the perspective of buyers in particular, we are repositioning Heimtextil 2019 and grouping themes and product groups according to target groups. In this way, synergies can be better recognised and exploited’, says Olaf Schmidt, Vice President Textiles Textile Tech- nologies at Messe Frankfurt. In addition, the demand for stand space on the exhibitor side has grown sharply in some product groups in recent years. The opportunity to optimise the concept is not least due to major construc- tion measures currently being implemented at the Messe Frankfurt exhibition site: the new hall 12 will be erected on the western side of the site and will be available to Heimtextil for the first time in 2019. Heimtextil International Trade Fair for Home and Contract Textiles Frankfurt POST SHOW REPORT
  • 24. www.textilevaluechain.com24 January 2018 Electrochemical Processing -an ecofriendly Technology in Textile ABSTRACT: The textile industry uses the electrochemical techniques both in textile processes (such as decolorizing fabrics and dyeing processes) and also in wastewaters treatments (color removal from waste water).The industry is in the need of New Green Technologies for different Textile processes and waste water treatment. There is growing awareness and readiness to adapt new green technolo- gies for Cleaner Production methods. Such new green technologies help industries to achieve green production and cost reduction at the same time. Therefore there is an urgent need to promote new green technologies in textile processes. Electrochemical reduction reactions are mostly used in sulfur and vat dyeing, but in some cases, they are applied to effluents discoloration. These electro- generated species are able to bleach indigo-dyed denim fabrics and to degrade dyes in wastewater in order to achieve the effluent color removal. The main objective of this paper is to review the electrochemical techniques ap- plied to textile industry. KEY WORDS: Electrochemical, Textile, dyeing, sulfur dye, vat dye. INTRODUCTION: Electrochemistry refers to the use of electrical energy in initiating chemical reactions, replacing traditional aid agents in direct chemical reactions. Traditionally, the elec- trochemical techniques have been used for the synthe- sis of compounds or for metal recovery treatments. But now a days electrochemical techniques are used in the bleaching of textile materials. Their application in sulfur- and vat-dyeing processes is also interesting. In this case, dyes are reduced by means of an electrochemical reac- tion (instead of sodium dithionite). In this way, sulfur and vat dyeing become cleaner processes as the addition of chemical reagents is not required. Although the electrochemical methods play an important role in the different textile processes listed above, their wider range of applications are related to color removal in wastewater treatments in particular, in the degrada- tion of non-biodegradable dyes (such as reactive dyes). This kind of dyes requires additional treatments to ob- tain uncolored effluents. In general, the electrochemical methods are cleaner than physicochemical and mem- brane technologies because they use the electron as unique reagent and they do not produce solid residues. THE ELECTROCHEMISTRY IN THE TEXTILE PRODUC- TION PROCESSES BLEACHING OF TEXILE MATERIALS Cotton bleaching takes place after the scouring process with the aim of destroying the natural raw color of this fiber. The most common reactive to provide whiteness to cotton is hydrogen peroxide. Chong and chu reported the use of electrochemical techniques to generate in situ this oxidant required for cotton bleaching by the electrolysis of oxygen in the presence of an alkaline electrolyte. This electrolyte proceeds from the scouring process. They propose the use of the electrolysis process in a combined scouring and bleaching process, and they concluded that the whiteness obtained in the combined method is com- parable to that obtained with conventional methods. Al- though the electrochemical techniques have been applied to bleach raw fibers, their main application in bleaching field is the discoloration of indigo–denim-dyed fabrics. An important step in the processing of indigo-dyed textiles is the finishing of the garment to obtain the required visual effect. The removal or destruction of part of indigo re- quires a combination of mechanical agitation and chemi- cal attack, mainly with oxidizing agents. The most useful oxidant for bleaching indigo denims is hypochlorite. The conventional method to obtain the de- colorized effect of these denims is based on the addition of this chemical reagent to the dye bath, but recently the generation in situ of the hypochlorite by an electrochemi- cal oxidation is becoming a more attractive method, be- cause it offers several advantages with respect to the con- ventional method: • Improvement in the process control and consistency, • Lower-process costs due to the production of more reg- ular shades, the possibility of bleaching bath regenera- tion and the lower amount of effluent generated. DYEING PROCESS: DYES REDUCTION Vat dyes, especially indigo, play an important role in tex- tile industry. They are insoluble in water and cannot dye fibers directly. They must be reduced in alkali medium to become soluble in water. When the dyes are absorbed onto the fiber, they return to their original form by a sub- sequent reoxidation. Sulfur dyes also are water-insoluble dyes, containing sulfur as an integral part of the chromo- phore group. The alkaline-reduced form is required for the dyeing process and subsequently, when they are add- ed to the fiber, they are oxidized to the insoluble form. In attempt to increase the eco-efficiency of these dyeing processes, electrochemical techniques have been inves- tigated in the reduction of such dyes, which avoids the addition of reducing agents as sodium dithionite. Sodium dithionite (Na2S2O4) is the most used reducing agent in the industrial dyeing process with this kind of dyes, but TECHNICAL ARTICLE
  • 25. 25www.textilevaluechain.comJanuary 2018 after its reaction, it cannot be recycled. It also produces large amounts of sodium sulfate and toxic sulfite prod- ucts. For this reason, the treatment of dyeing effluents requires the addition of hydrogen peroxide, which also causes high costs and other additional problems. The most attractive new procedures to reduce vat and sulfur dyes are electrochemical reduction methods, be- cause the addition of reducing agents is not required. This method also avoids the generation of toxic products due to the reaction between the added reagents and the dye molecules. For all these reasons, electrochemi- cal reduction processes are considered more suitable: no reagents addition is required, no byproducts are formed and no tertiary treatments are necessary to treat the final effluents. The energy is the only requirement of electro- chemical methods. Electrochemical techniques constitute a promising field for the different steps of textile process, but their application to the dyeing of vat and sulfur dyes is specially interesting to avoid the use of reducing rea- gents. WASTEWATER COLOR REMOVAL The textile industry produces large volumes of wastewa- ter in its dyeing and finishing processes. These effluents have as common characteristic their high coloration. Colorants, the additive substances that cause a variation in color, can be divided in dyes or pigments. Pigments in general are insoluble substances which have not the chemical affinity to the substrate to be colored; other- wise, dyes are generally soluble (or partially soluble) in organic compounds Several methods are used for the re- moval of organic dyes from wastewaters. Most of dyes are only partially removed under aerobic conditions in conventional biological treatments. As biological treat- ment is insufficient to remove color and to accomplish with current regulations, the application of Some electro- chemical color removal methods have been applied to in- dustrial effluents. The current physico-chemical methods, based on the separation of dyes from the effluents, pro- duce a residue which requires an additional treatment to be destroyed. Also, the absorbent materials require their regeneration after several treatments, and the filtration and membranes methods need cleaning treatments. Chemical oxidation methods are rather expensive and in- volve some operational difficulties. Biological treatments are a simple method but supply inefficient results in dis- coloration because dyes have aromatic rings in their large molecules that provide them chemical stability and resist- ance to the microbiological attack. Enzymatic decomposi- tion requires further investigation in order to know which enzymatic process takes place; moreover, temperature and pressure have to be controlled to avoid enzymes de- naturalization. For these reasons, the electrochemical methods are nowadays the subject of a wide range of investigations at laboratory and pilot-plant scale. The advantage of these electrochemical techniques is that electron is a clean rea- gent. They also have good versatility and high-energy ef- ficiency. They are easy for automation and safety because it is possible to operate at smooth conditions. The main types of electrochemical methods applied to wastewater treatment, briefly described below. Electrocoagulation Methods Electrocoagulation systems provide electrochemical ag- gregation of heavy metals, organic and inorganic pollut- ants, to produce a coagulated residue to be separated or removed from water. This technique is an indirect electro- chemical method which produces coagulant agents (Fe3+ or Al3+) from the electrode material (Fe or Al) in hydrox- ide medium. These species, that is, Fe(OH)3, can remove dissolved dyes by precipitation or by flotation. These complexed compounds are attached to the bubbles of H2 (gas) evolved at the cathode and transported to the top of solution. The inconvenient of the Electrocoagulation in comparison to the other electrochemical methods is that it produces secondary residues (the complex formed with pollutant and hydroxide) which implies in the usage of tertiary treatments. Indirect Oxidation Methods The indirect electro-oxidation occurs when strong oxi- dants are generated in situ during the electrolysis and react with the organic pollutants such as dyestuffs, pro- ducing its total or partial degradation. Mainly two methods one used: ƒ The first one is the electro-oxidation with active chlo- rine, which is the major oxidizing agent. In this case, free-chlorine gaseous and/or the generated chlorine- oxygen species such as hypochlorous acid (HClO) or hypochlorite ions (ClO−) depending on the pH, oxidize the organic matter present in the effluents. ƒ The second one is the electro-Fenton process , where organics degradation occurs by hydroxyl radicals (OH• ) formed from Fenton’s reaction between catalytic Fe2+ and H2O2, this hydrogen peroxide is also electrogen- erated from O2 reduction. This technique has an important inconvenience: a strong acidic medium is required. As the reactive dyeing process is carried out in basic medium (generally pH 10), a high amount of acid has to be added before the treatment. Subsequently, the treated effluent must be neutralized to be discharged. Consequently, the whole process pro- duces a high increase of the wastewater salinity.As some industrial wastewaters contain large amounts of chloride, the first approach is more suitable to treat this kind of ef- fluents, because the addition of any chemical product is not required whereas in second case, Fenton reagent is needed. In contrast, the combination of electrochemistry and chloride can produce haloforms such as chloroform, although it is not an inconvenient if the treated water is degraded lately in a biological plant to accomplish its min- TECHNICAL ARTICLE
  • 26. www.textilevaluechain.com26 January 2018 eralization. Color Removal from Textile and other Industrial Wastewater using Ozone Ozone has been used for successfully for removal of color from textile wastewater streams in plants around the world as well as in other industrial wastewater processes. In wastewater treatment, ozone is often used in conjunc- tion with biological treatment systems such as activated sludge. Organic dyes are mostly refractory due to their large molecular size and they can be poorly removed by adsorption on activated sludge. In some cases ozone has been used before the biological process, but mainly after biological treatment. If the wastewater is hardly biode- gradable or toxic to activated sludge pretreatment is an option. Ozone can be used prior to a biological process since it has a tendency to convert organic molecules into smaller more biodegradable species. This can enhance the effi- ciency of the biological process. In addition, ozone treat- ment of wastewater increases the oxygen content of the water (unconverted oxygen and ozone that decomposes back to oxygen that was mixed with the water) which results in improvement in aerobic processes. While this benefit is well known in the literature it is difficult to prac- tically apply since the amount of improvement is difficult to predict and pilot studies involving ozone and biological processes are difficult to carry out. The effect of ozone on improving biodegradability and reducing toxicity is worth noting in terms of the effect of the treated water on the receiving stream. Where the treated water is tested for toxicity, the impact of the treatment process on this pa- rameter must be considered. Destroying one organic molecule, but creating more toxic ones in a treatment process has been observed, for example the ozonation of MTBE without any additional agents or treatment pro- cesses can result in a more toxic wastewater. Another consideration is the presence of surfactants and the need to remove these compounds from the water. In some lo- cales surfactant concentrations are tightly controlled and must be kept under 1 ppm. This creates an additional de- mand for oxidant. Some textile waste waters contain both color and surfactants. Ozone is effective in removing the color from all dyes used in textile processing. The amount of ozone can vary depending on a number of factors: how much color was removed in the biological process, the type of dye used, where ozone is applied in the process, etc. Knowing the proper amount of ozone required to meet the color re- moval objective for the receiving water body is critical to the economics of the ozone system. In general it is not easy to predict the amount of ozone required, so in vir- tually all cases where specific previous experience is not available, pilot testing is employed. CONCLUSIONS The electrochemical techniques have been proved to be efficient in different oxidation or reduction steps of the textile processes such as: bleaching denim fabrics or re- duction of sulfur and vat dyes, where their applications are available in both natural and synthetic fibers. They constitute a less harmful alternative than the traditional processes. In addition, the electrochemical treatments have been extensively applied to the decontamination of wastewaters from the textile processes. The possibil- ity of reusing dyeing effluents treated by electrochemical methods is particularly interesting and it implies an im- portant saving of water and salt. This kind of studies is especially important in Mediterranean countries, where the river flow rates are low and their salinity is nowadays an increasing environmental problem. REFERENCES 1. C. L. Chong and P. M. Chu, “Bleaching cotton based on electrolytic production of hydrogen peroxide,”American Dyestuff Reporter, vol. 87, no. 4, pp. 13–19, 1998. 2. T. Bechtold, E. Burtscher, and A. Turcanu, “Direct ca- thodic reduction of Leuco Sulfur Black 1 and Sulfur Black 1,” Journal of Applied Electrochemistry, vol. 28, no. 11, pp. 1243–1250, 1998 3. Dyes Color Removal by Ozone and Hydrogen Peroxide: Some Aspects and Problems, R. Tosik, Ozone: Science and Engineering 27: 265-272 4. Y. Amano and Y. Y. Tanaka, “Treating agent for bleach processing,” Japanese Patent: Application number “JP1988000226387”, 1990. 5. T. Bechtold, P. Maier, and W. Schrott, “Bleaching of in- digo-dyed denim fabric by electrochemical formation of hypohalogenites in situ,” Coloration Technology, vol. 121, no. 2, pp. 64–68, 2005. 6. M. D. Teli, P. Rohera, J. Sheikh, and R. Singhal, “Use of Amaranthus (Rajgeera) starch vis-à-vis wheat starch in printing of vat dyes,” Carbohydrate Polymers, vol. 76, no. 3, pp. 460–463, 2009. 7. E. Marte, “Dyeing with sulphur, indigo and vat dyes us- ing the new RD process. Hydroxyacetone makes it possi- ble,” Text Praxis International, vol. 44, p. 737, 1989. 8. A. Roessler and X. Jin, “State of the art technologies and new electrochemical methods for the reduction of vat dyes,” Dyes and Pigments, vol. 59, no. 3, pp. 223–235, 2003. 9. W. G. Kuo, “Decolorizing dye wastewater with Fenton’s reagent,” Water Research, vol. 26, no. 7, pp. 881–886, 1992. 10. N. Meksi, M. Kechida, and F. Mhenni, “Cotton dyeing by indigo with the borohydride process: effect of some experimental conditions on indigo reduction and dyeing TECHNICAL ARTICLE
  • 27. 27www.textilevaluechain.comJanuary 2018 quality,” Chemical Engineering Journal, vol. 131, no. 1–3, pp. 187–193, 2007. 11. W. Schrott, “Electrochemical dyeing,” Textile Asia, vol. 35, no. 2, pp. 45–47, 2004 12. M. A. Kulandainathan, A. Muthukumaran, K. Patil, and R. B. Chavan, “Potentiostatic studies on indirect electro- chemical reduction of vat dyes,” Dyes and Pigments, vol. 73, no. 1, pp. 47–54, 2007. 13. Removal of Dissolved Organic and color from dying Wastewater by Pre-Ozonation and Subsequent Biologi- cal Treatment, Takahashi, Nobuyuki; Kumagai, Tomoyo; Ozone: Science and Engineering, 28: 199-205 14. C. Hachem, F. Bocquillon, O. Zahraa, and M. Bouchy, “Decolourization of textile industry wastewater by the photocatalytic degradation process,” Dyes and Pigments, vol. 49, no. 2, pp. 117–125, 2001. 15. S. Figueroa, L. Vazquez, and A. Alvarez-Gallegos, “ecol- orizing textile wastewater with Fenton’s reagent electro- generated with solar photovoltaic cell,” Water Research, vol. 43, no. 2, pp. 283–294, 2009. Department of Textile Technology Shyam Barhanpurkar, Ajay S Joshi, K Sarkar Shri Vaishanv Institute of Technology and Science, Indore Ichalkaranji, popularly known as the ‘Manchester of Ma- harashtra’, is one of the prominent centres of the decen- tralised textile sector in India. Recent years have seen a phenomenal growth of the textile industry in Ichalkaranji with major investments in the latest technologies. In the weaving sector, around 9,000 shuttleless weaving machines, mainly high speed airjet and rapier technol- ogy, 20,000 auto looms, Ruti-C, Ruti-B and Cimmco, and 120,000 plain power looms are in operation, producing fabrics such as grey apparel, cambric, poplin, dhoti, print- ed sari, blouse, interlining, shirting, sheeting, canvas, and industrial textiles. To cater to the weaving machines, there are about 160 sizing units with more than 250 sizing machines in all, which include a range of conventional machinesas well as the most modern technology machines. A.T.E. has a strong presence in the Ichalkaranji market with several Karl Mayer installations. As a renowned so- lution provider, A.T.E. consistently meets increasing cus- tomer expectations in terms ofhigh quality warp, and better productivity to achieve the best performance on high speed shuttleless weaving machines. In the last few years, more than 40 Karl Mayer sizing and warping machines have been installed in this market, while many more machines are expected soon. Jathar Group of Textiles is a well-known job sizer from Ichalkaranji and has so far installed 11 Karl Mayer warp preparation machines. The leading airjet weavers in Ichalkaranji turn to the Jathar Group for all their sizing beams, as they find the performance of their weaving machine is much better with warp sized on Karl Mayer machines. Mr Sachin Jathar, Managing Director of the Jathar Group of Textiles, and his team believe that as a job sizer one must have adequate process knowledge on sizing tech- nology and also have the best quality warp preparation equipment to retain customers. Expressing his satisfac- tion with the Karl Mayer machines, Mr Sachin Jathar says “since our first purchase in the year 2010, Karl Mayer ma- chines have been operating to the best of our satisfaction. Due to Karl Mayer machines, the sized beams started per- forming well on high-speed air jet looms with the highest efficiency and productivity. A.T.E. and Karl Mayer teams have always supported us and gave us the right guidance. We are happy with the overall performance of Karl Mayer machines and today we have 11 Karl Mayer warp prepa- ration machines, which cater to a major market segment in Ichalkaranji”. The increasing preference for the Karl Mayer technology can be gauged from the repeat orders received for warp preparation machines from other leading customers like the Baldev Group, Arvind Texfab and many more from the Ichalkaranji market. Karl Mayer has recently introduced PROSIZE technology, a breakthrough innovation in sizing, designed to provide unmatched advantages and benefits to customers. After the successful installation of the first 2 PROSIZE machines in Ichalkaranji (out of a total of 20 machines supplied so far in India), there are several orders for the PROSIZE ma- chines in the pipeline from this market. Karl Mayer creates a niche in the Ichalkaranji market NEWS TECHNICAL ARTICLE
  • 28. www.textilevaluechain.com28 January 2018 Shri Ajay Tamta, Hon’ble Minister of State (MoS) for Tex- tiles inaugurated the 60th edition of India International Garment Fair (IIGF) . The three day international fair is pri- marily covering the Autumn/Winter season of European Union, USA and other Western markets. Shri Ajay Tamta, Hon’ble Minister of State for Textiles said, “IIGF is a big platform which brings together the overseas garment buyers and garment exporters with almost half of the Indian states participating in the fair. Garment sector is one of the largest employment pro- viders and is helping a large number of people to earn their livelihood. The apparel Industry is going through a challenging phase and to address the concerns of the In- dustry, a committee has been formed by the Government to look into the issues raised by the Industry. The textile package announced by the Honourable Prime Minister is benefitting the sector, immensely. During the last IIGF, Overall business worth US $200 million and its seence to be increase this year. Mr. HKL Magu, Chairman, of AEPC expresses the note with the huge transformation in the Fair and the industry has witnessed in these years. The Fair has grown in scale scope and emerged as the one of the largest and most popular platforms in Asia where overseas garment buy- ers can source and forge the business relationship with India’s finest in Apparel and Fashion Accessories domain. This time the fair is conducting at a time when Industry is facing lot of challenges both domestically and globally. This is high times for the Industry with global head winds blowier The post GST transformation for the industry has been challenging, but I am sure the industry seems the resilience in the past, and emerge stronger.” A total no. of 294 exporters from 11 states namely Guja- rat, Haryana, Maharashtra, Madhya Pradesh, New Delhi, Rajasthan, Tamil Nadu, Telangana, Uttar Pradesh and West Bengal are participating at the 60th IIGF. These 294 participants displays women’s wear, accessories, kid’s wear and menswear. International buyers from 95 coun- tries like Brazil, Spain, Japan, Uruguay, UK, Hong Kong, US etc. have also registered to participate in this fair. IIGF is also organizing fashion shows, twice a day on all three days for exhibiting the collections for business de- velopment. Besides this, the best displayed stalls would be awarded Gold, Silver and Bronze Trophies in an award function. India International Garment Fair is a B-2-B fair started in 1988 .The fair is being organized in association with International Garment Fair Association and four major Garment Exporters’ Associations Viz. Apparel Exporters Manufacturers Association (AEMA), Garment Exporters Association (GEA), The Clothing Manufacturers Associa- tion of India (CMAI) and Garment Exporters of Rajasthan (GEAR).This is only B-2-B fair and is meant for conducting meaningful and quality business. ASSOCIATION NEWS Shri Ajay Tamta, Minister of State (MoS) for Textiles, inaugurates 60th edition of India International Garment Fair A well-fitting shirt makes a big difference and adds colour to your style. Men’s love to have different range of fabric, colour and styles in their wardrobe which suit their per- sonality. Well if you are looking for all this and want to get your wear customise, you need to enter Bombay Shirt Company. The popular Indian brand the Bombay Shirt Company re- cently opened its first studio in the UAE, at Central Park Towers in Dubai. The brands website offers variety of designs where you can have a look through the Design Your Own Shirt tab. First you need to select your fabric from 1000 types with many shades of colour. You can also choose weaves that come in all manner of checks, stripes, prints and motifs. Next you need to pick the collar from the15 different ones from the classic spread pattern and cutaway collar to traditional bandhgala and contemporary skinny style. Then you can select the cuffs, plackets and monogram options, as well as sleeve and pocket style, button and elbow patches. The price at Bombay Shirt Company starts from Dh400. Want To Customise Your Wear, Enter The Newly Launched Bombay Shirt Company NEWS
  • 29. 29www.textilevaluechain.comJanuary 2018 Steady Rise in Textile Imports – a concern for the domestic industry: CITI On the release of foreign trade data for the month of De- cember 2017 by the Ministry of Commerce Industry, Shri Sanjay Kumar Jain, Chairman, CITI, expressed con- cern over the 3% decline in CAGR in textiles and apparel exports compared to the corresponding period of Decem- ber 2016. The exports of textiles and apparel stood at US$ 2996 million during December 2017 as against US$ 3075 million in December 2016. However, the cumulative export has slightly improved by 2% CAGR as the exports stood at US$ 26,136 million in April-Dec 2017 in comparison to US$ 25,721 million in April-Dec 2016. Shri Jain further stated that the share of textiles and apparel exports in the All Commodity Exports (ACE) also declined by 2% in December 2017. A comparative statement showing the sector-wise performance is given below: India’s Exports of Textiles Clothing to the World Values in USD Mn Source: Ministry of Commerce Industry Shri Sanjay Jain while appreciating the cumulative in- crease in the textiles and clothing exports during April- December 2017 also expressed concernsover the consist- ent increase in imports of textiles and clothing during the same period. The imports of textiles during December 2017 stood at US$ 165.34 million in comparison to US$ 137.24 million in December 2016, registering an increase of 20.48 per cent. Shri Jain also pointed out that as per the latest statistics re- leased by Export Promotion Bureau of Bangladesh, India’s imports of garments from Bangladesh has reached US$ 111.3 million during July to December 2017, indicating a sharp rise of 66% from US$ 66.9 million during the same period last year. The data regarding imports of garments from Bangladesh post GST is illustrated in table below: Quick Estimates on Imports for the month of Decem- ber 2017 Value in USD Mn Imports of Garments from Bangladesh Post GST Shri Sanjay Jain also stressed that the on-going scenario is negatively affecting the domestic yarn, fabric and gar- ment manufacturers. He further stated that there is a greater need to impose safeguard measures such as Rules of Origin, Yarn Forward and Fabric Forward Rules on the countries like Bangladesh and Sri Lanka that have FTAs with India to prevent cheap- er fabrics produced from countries like China routed through these countries. Garment manufacturers in India have to pay duty on im- ported fabrics, while Bangla- desh can import fabric from China duty free and convert them into garments and sell to India duty free. This is put- ting Indian garment industry at a major disadvantage and this figure is expected to go up in coming months. At the same time, Shri Sanjay Jain pointed out that India can increase its exports of cotton yarn and fabrics pro- vided the sector is restored with export incentives. CITI has been strongly representing the case of cotton yarn and fabrics with every government department, including PMO to enhance the competitiveness of the cotton yarn and fabric sector. He stated that at present India’s share of cotton yarn in world trade is 26% and it is declining steeply as the incentives given to the cotton yarn sector were withdrawn in 2014 and MEIS which was extended to the entire value chain was not extended to cotton yarn. Moreover, there are various state levies up to the tune of 8% on cotton yarn which are not refunded at any stage. Similarly, Fabric sector is not getting refund of state levies Export Category Dec’16 Dec’17 CAGR April -Dec 16 April -Dec 17 CAGR Cotton Yarn/Fabs./Made- ups, Handloom Items etc. 935 939 0.40% 7,177 7,513 5% Man-made Yarn/Fabs./ made-ups etc. 390 417 7% 3,326 3,554 7% Apparel 1,454 1,337 -8% 12,426 12,386 -0.30% Textile and Apparel (in- cluding Jute, Carpet and Handicrafts) 3,075 2,996 -3% 25,721 26,136 2% All Commodity 24,057 27,030 12% 199,467 223,513 12% % of TA in Total Exports 13% 11% 13% 12% Category Dec’16 Dec’17 % Change April- Dec 2016 April- Dec 2017 % change Textile Yarn Fabric/Made- ups articles 137.24 165.34 20.48% 1,160 1,388 19.65% ASSOCIATION NEWS
  • 30. www.textilevaluechain.com30 January 2018 of around 6%. By including cotton yarn under MEIS and providing ROSL for fabrics, Indian can retain its competi- tiveness in the global market. Shri Sanjay K. Jain, stated that he is optimistic that the Government would consider CITI’s representations and resolve the issues of the textile and clothing sector on an urgent basis. In USD Million July-Dec 2016 July-Dec 2017 % change Knitted Apparel 20.6 36.5 77% Woven Apparel 46.3 74.8 62% Total 66.9 111.3 66% Exports of Man Made Fibre Textiles items up by 7 Percent Exports of Synthetic and Rayon textiles has registered a growth since the start of this financial year and this trend is continuing further showing a growth of 7% in US Dollar term during April – November, 2017. Shri Sri Narain Aggarwal, Chairman of The Synthetic Rayon Textiles Export Promotion Council said that this year seems to be a successful one unlike the previous year in terms of achievement of growth for this sector. According to Shri Sri Narain Aggarwal; main category of fabrics, yarn and made-ups have shown a growth value at Rs.20239.69 crores and man-made staple fibre has also shown a growth of Rs.2679.28 crores during April-Novem- ber 2017. The Chairman of SRTEPC extends his sincere thanks to our Hon’ble Union Textile Minister Ms. Smriti Irani for her deep understanding towards the problems faced by the MMF segment and her kind support. He also thanked the Hon’ble Union Commerce and Industry Minister Shri Suresh Prabhu for his support and encouragement for MMF Textile industry. It was due to their continued sup- port and cooperation exports of manmade textiles could grow and achieve its true potential. Nov-16 Nov-17 % Grw/ De- cline 17/16 Commodity Value (INR ) Value (US $) Value (INR ) Value (US $) Value (INR ) Value ( US $) MANMADE STAPLE FIBRE 3418049696 50543645 3012539043 46444928 -11.86 - 8 MANMADE YARN,FABRICS,MADEUPS 20167600764 298223916 24718504536 381090254 22.57 28 TOTAL 23585650460 348767561 27731043579 427535182 17.58 23 April - Nov 2016 April - Nov 2017 % Grw/ De- cline 17/16 Commodity Value (INR ) Value (US $) Value (INR ) Value (US $) Value (INR ) Value (US $) MANMADE STAPLE FIBRE 25007061921 373271456 26792887650 415284695 7.14 11.26 MANMADE YARN,FABRICS,MADEUPS 196620365171 2935562948 202396957684 3137324574 2.94 6.87 TOTAL 221627427092 3308834404 229189845334 3552609269 3.41 7.37 ASSOCIATION NEWS Source: Export Promotion Bureau of Bangladesh Imports of Garments from Bangladesh Post GST SRTEPC NEWS
  • 31. 31www.textilevaluechain.comJanuary 2018 Women apparel brand Shree growing in double digits by using Liva fabric • Shree increases production of Liva tagged garments from 15,000 per month to 250,000 garments per month • Liva supports Shree with innova- tive fabrics, quality up gradation of vendors, latest trends and co- branded marketing campaigns Shree – The Indian Avatar has ob- served almost 1500% growth in demand for its garments made from Liva fabrics. Owing to the rise in demand of Liva, the new age fluid fabric from the Aditya Birla Group, Shree now boasts a production of 250,000 garments per month made from Liva from just 15,000 garments per month. Talking about the collaboration with LIVA, Sandeep Ka- poor, an Expert in Textile and Apparel Industry and Direc- tor of Shree – The Indian Avatar, stated, “Our success has a lot to do with the unique way in which we operate our business. We create, innovate and introduce 5 new trend collections everyday, which is unlike any other garment manufacturing company in the country. This is a fast fash- ion model.” Mr. Kapoor further added, “We get immense support from Liva with respect to innovative fabrics and modern trends. With increasing popularity of Liva, we now have almost 98% of our collection made from Liva fabric.” Shree gets good consumer insights from 24 EBOs and 1000 MBOs. These insights help to create new innova- tions on a daily basis. This also indicates that the supply chain has to be robust and fast. Liva Accredited Partner Forum (LAPF) has understood the requirement very well. LAPF has worked in close coordination with its partners and brought down the lead time of supplying the fabrics from 75 days to almost 25 days. According to Mr. Manohar Samuel, President – Marketing, Birla Cellulose, “We are looking for partners who can un- derstand consumers well, innovate continuously and also understand fabrics. Shree fits in all requirements very well. They have the ability to connect with every stratum, be it value chain or end consumers”. To fuel growth, Liva supports Shree in co – branding ac- tivities, with a focus to spread awareness for both Shree – The Indian Avatar and Liva. Applied DNA Sciences Expands Internationally with New Central DNA Testing Laboratory in India New Facility to Service Growing Business in Textiles, Glob- al Supply Chains from the Asia Pacific Region Applied DNA Sciences, Inc. (NASDAQ: APDN, “Applied DNA,” “the Company”) today announced the establish- ment of a Central DNA Testing Laboratory in Ahmedabad, India providing full forensic authentication services. The laboratory supports Applied DNA’s growing global textile business in the Asia-Pacific region with expansion capa- bility for other supply chains present in the region, such as fertilizer and pharmaceuticals. Officially opening on February 15, 2018, the Central Laboratory is strategically located in the state of Gujarat, an economic hub for the development and advancement of cotton, other textiles, fertilizers, petrochemicals and pharmaceuticals. Dr. Ila Lansky, a forensic scientist with over 11 years of forensic DNA experience, will direct the Central DNA Test- ing Laboratory. She currently oversees all aspects of fo- rensic analysis, testing, authentication and reporting for all samples submitted, following the standard operating procedures established by Applied DNA’s New York fo- rensic laboratories. The Central DNA Testing Laboratory is a high throughput laboratory, providing customers with accurate reports in a short turnaround time. “This is an important opportunity for Applied DNA to bring our proven technologies to the heart of India’s tex- tile industry, and share our impeccable standards and op- erational protocols,” said Dr. Lansky. “The laboratory will have the ability to process thousands of samples, serving our textiles customers in the region,” NEWS
  • 32. www.textilevaluechain.com32 January 2018 The Indian textile industry is currently estimated at ap- proximately $135 billion USD and is expected to reach $230 billion by 2023 (IBEF 2017). It is home to such global textile brands and manufacturers as The Himatsingka Group and GHCL Limited. Additionally, India is home to the sixth largest pharmaceutical market in the world, with an expected value of $550 billion by 2020 (IBEF 2017). “Opening a lab in Gujarat has both strategic and practical importance for Applied DNA,” said Dr. James A. Hayward, president and chief executive officer of Applied DNA. “Our partnership with Himatsingka, has proven remark- ably successful, with uptake in the commercial ecosys- tem and endorsement by big box retailers. Adoption of our technologies by other textile companies is growing. Working closely with such India-based industry majors as Himatsingka and GHCL, we know Applied DNA’s value in enabling source-verified supplied chains and contributing the steady growth and ensured protection of the circular economy. It only makes sense for Applied DNA to have a facility where so many of our current and future partners are based.” NEWS ‘‘ Be Fearless in the pursuit of what sets your soul on fire..’’ Review of Textile Value Chain Magazine Mr Rushin H.Vadhani AYM SYNTEX We are occasional advertiser of TVC, we are satisfied with the service and response. “ TVC is one of the integral informative magazines in Textile Industry. It broadly covers all spectrum of Textile Industry with the latest update. I appreciate the quality of articles in- depth information by industry experts. The content of the magazine is well structured which helps readers to understand enhance their knowledge. Kudos to TVC editorial Team for their hard work, efforts relationship in the industry which helps Textile Industry to leap towards next milestone. My good wishes to Ms Jigna TVC team” Mr. Jitendra Kanbar Klassic Fabrics Mr.Bipin Vora Vora Associates The Textile Value Chain Magazine is a complete Package for Textile Industry which Include market report of Domestic Cotton, Yarn Export. Current issues like GST and demonetization is well covered by different issues of magazine Hi I am Azim Pehlari from Revolve Valves Bearings. Textile Value Chain Magazine is a Platform were you get day today information of Textile Industry from Thread to Cloth We are thankful to TVC n all the Staff for such great work Mr. Azim Pehlari Revolve Valves