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Fashion Design Protection
Janet Kim Lin
September 20, 2010
Seattle University School of Law
Seattle Uni ersit School of La
Introduction
• US Fashion Market: $200 billion
  ▫ More than books film and music combined
    More than books, film, and music combined
  ▫ Haute couture, mid‐market, mass market
• US is the pirate nation
  US is the pirate nation
  ▫ EU, Japan, India, Australia have some form of design 
    protection
• Historical Context
  ▫ Fashion Originator’s Guild of America
  ▫ Recent US legislation
Negative IP Space
  g          p
•   Fabric Print v. Cut/Design
•   Patent/Design Patent
    Patent/Design Patent
•   Trademark/Trade Dress
•   Copyright
•   Right of Publicity
•   Other industrial designs protected
    Other industrial designs protected
    ▫ Architectural works
    ▫ Vessel hulls
    ▫ Semiconductors
Should Design Be Protected?
           g
• Purpose of IP Protection (U.S. CONST. art. I, § 8, cl. 8)
  ▫ To promote the Progress of Science and useful Arts by
    To promote the Progress of Science and useful Arts, by 
    securing for limited Times to Authors and Inventors the 
    exclusive Right to their respective Writings and Discoveries
• Piracy Paradox
  ▫ Induced Obsolescence        Innovation
• Copying at the Expense of Creativity
              h           f
  ▫ Technology/Speed
Fashion Design Protection
Fashion Design Protection
Fashion Design Protection
Copyright
  py g
• Useful Article Limitation/Conceptual Separability
  ▫ Mazer v Stein
          v. Stein
  ▫ Brandir Intl., Inc. v. Cascade Pacific Lumber Co.




  ▫ Kieselstein‐Cord v. Accessories by Pearl
Copyright
  py g
• Costumes
 ▫ National Theme Productions v Jerry B Beck
   National Theme Productions v. Jerry B. Beck
    Costume does not work well as a garment  ©
    cf Vacheron & Constantin‐Le Coultre Watches, Inc. v. 
     f                                         ,
    Benrus Watch Co.
 ▫ Galiano v. Harrah’s Operating Co.
    Whether it could “fetch a return” functioning purely as 
    Wh h i         ld “f h          ”f     i i        l
    an artistic commodity
Fashion Design Protection
Fashion Design Protection
Fashion Design Protection
Extending Copyright
        g py g
• 70 years + life of the author 
• WMFH 95 years + publication/120 years + creation
         95 years + publication/120 years + creation
• Promoting innovation?
IDPPPA (S. 3728)
       (       )
•   Innovative Design Protection & Piracy Prevention Act 
•   August 5, 2010 Senator Charles Schumer (D. NY)
    August 5 2010 Senator Charles Schumer (D NY)
•   17 USC 13: Original Designs (Vessel Hull Designs)
•   Three‐year sui generis protection for fashion design
    Three year sui generis protection for fashion design
“Substantially Identical”
             y
• Protected designs are those with “a unique, 
  distinguishable, non‐trivial and non‐utilitarian 
  variation over prior designs”
• “Substantially Identical” designs are prohibited
• “Substantially Identical” is defined as
  “Substantially Identical” is defined as:
      an article of apparel which is so similar in 
      appearance as to be likely to be mistaken for 
        pp                       y
      the protected design, and contains only those 
      differences in construction or design which 
      are merely trivial.
                l      l
“Non‐Trivial”
• Designers must prove their design is a “non‐trivial” 
  variation over prior designs
  variation over prior designs
• Does this restrict a design inspired by a past design?
• Does this restrict a design inspired by a public trend?
• Cannot use colors, and pictorial or graphic elements 
  imprinted on the fabric to determine the uniqueness 
  of a design
Registration Not Required
  g                q
• Fashion Designs would not need to be registered in 
  order to receive protection
  order to receive protection
  ▫ Therefore, there is no initial Copyright Office 
    determination of valid design protection
                                 g p
• The designer makes initial determination
  ▫ Marking designs as protected
  ▫ False marking penalties
• Over‐inclusion of designs protected?
Plead with Particularity
                       y
• Designer would bear a greater burden at the time of 
  enforcement
  ▫ The design is protected;
  ▫ The defendant’s design infringes upon the protected
    The defendant s design infringes upon the protected 
    design; and 
  ▫ The protected design or an image thereof was 
    available to the extent it is reasonable to infer 
    defendant had access to the protected design.
Using Existing Jurisprudence
    g        gJ     p
• Substantial similarity
  ▫ Ordinary lay observer
    Ordinary lay observer
  ▫ Borrowing from trademark law
• Access
• Functionality
Thank You
Janet Kim Lin
Bullivant Houser Bailey – Seattle Office
Chair, Fashion & Design Division 
Tel: 206.521.6437
janet.lin@bullivant.com

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Fashion Design Protection

  • 2. Introduction • US Fashion Market: $200 billion ▫ More than books film and music combined More than books, film, and music combined ▫ Haute couture, mid‐market, mass market • US is the pirate nation US is the pirate nation ▫ EU, Japan, India, Australia have some form of design  protection • Historical Context ▫ Fashion Originator’s Guild of America ▫ Recent US legislation
  • 3. Negative IP Space g p • Fabric Print v. Cut/Design • Patent/Design Patent Patent/Design Patent • Trademark/Trade Dress • Copyright • Right of Publicity • Other industrial designs protected Other industrial designs protected ▫ Architectural works ▫ Vessel hulls ▫ Semiconductors
  • 4. Should Design Be Protected? g • Purpose of IP Protection (U.S. CONST. art. I, § 8, cl. 8) ▫ To promote the Progress of Science and useful Arts by To promote the Progress of Science and useful Arts, by  securing for limited Times to Authors and Inventors the  exclusive Right to their respective Writings and Discoveries • Piracy Paradox ▫ Induced Obsolescence  Innovation • Copying at the Expense of Creativity h f ▫ Technology/Speed
  • 8. Copyright py g • Useful Article Limitation/Conceptual Separability ▫ Mazer v Stein v. Stein ▫ Brandir Intl., Inc. v. Cascade Pacific Lumber Co. ▫ Kieselstein‐Cord v. Accessories by Pearl
  • 9. Copyright py g • Costumes ▫ National Theme Productions v Jerry B Beck National Theme Productions v. Jerry B. Beck Costume does not work well as a garment  © cf Vacheron & Constantin‐Le Coultre Watches, Inc. v.  f , Benrus Watch Co. ▫ Galiano v. Harrah’s Operating Co. Whether it could “fetch a return” functioning purely as  Wh h i ld “f h ”f i i l an artistic commodity
  • 13. Extending Copyright g py g • 70 years + life of the author  • WMFH 95 years + publication/120 years + creation 95 years + publication/120 years + creation • Promoting innovation?
  • 14. IDPPPA (S. 3728) ( ) • Innovative Design Protection & Piracy Prevention Act  • August 5, 2010 Senator Charles Schumer (D. NY) August 5 2010 Senator Charles Schumer (D NY) • 17 USC 13: Original Designs (Vessel Hull Designs) • Three‐year sui generis protection for fashion design Three year sui generis protection for fashion design
  • 15. “Substantially Identical” y • Protected designs are those with “a unique,  distinguishable, non‐trivial and non‐utilitarian  variation over prior designs” • “Substantially Identical” designs are prohibited • “Substantially Identical” is defined as “Substantially Identical” is defined as: an article of apparel which is so similar in  appearance as to be likely to be mistaken for  pp y the protected design, and contains only those  differences in construction or design which  are merely trivial. l l
  • 16. “Non‐Trivial” • Designers must prove their design is a “non‐trivial”  variation over prior designs variation over prior designs • Does this restrict a design inspired by a past design? • Does this restrict a design inspired by a public trend? • Cannot use colors, and pictorial or graphic elements  imprinted on the fabric to determine the uniqueness  of a design
  • 17. Registration Not Required g q • Fashion Designs would not need to be registered in  order to receive protection order to receive protection ▫ Therefore, there is no initial Copyright Office  determination of valid design protection g p • The designer makes initial determination ▫ Marking designs as protected ▫ False marking penalties • Over‐inclusion of designs protected?
  • 18. Plead with Particularity y • Designer would bear a greater burden at the time of  enforcement ▫ The design is protected; ▫ The defendant’s design infringes upon the protected The defendant s design infringes upon the protected  design; and  ▫ The protected design or an image thereof was  available to the extent it is reasonable to infer  defendant had access to the protected design.
  • 19. Using Existing Jurisprudence g gJ p • Substantial similarity ▫ Ordinary lay observer Ordinary lay observer ▫ Borrowing from trademark law • Access • Functionality