In 2007, during what at one point seemed a replay of the rhetoric that lead to the invasion of Iraq 4 years before, this time directed at Iran, a Belgian residing in China (www.j6n.com) traveled to Iran to visit one of the most ancient civilizations on earth before it might possibly be too late, and to see for himself exactly who was evil.

1. Journey to the Heart
I r a n , M a y 3 – 1 2 , 2 0 0 7
of the Axis of Evil

2. Persia, named Iran today, has been
inhabited by Aryan people since
2000 BC. The Aryans’ homeland was
likely around the Ural mountains in
present-day Russia.
The language of the Aryans, from
which the name Iran is derived, was
the basis for the Indo-European
family of languages, which has
today spread to all continents of the
world, and includes English.
While Iranians are Muslim, they are
therefore not Arab, and genetically
closely related to Europeans.

3. Several Persian empires, stretching
from the Indus to the Donau,
succeeded each other from 500 BC
to 330 BC, and at the time were the
largest empires the world had
known.

4. At its height, the Persian Empire under Darius extended from the
Indus to the Donau.

5. The recent history of Iran includes
26 years of rule under the Shah
(king), installed and maintained in
power with support from the West,
characterized by authoritarian rule
and a precarious economic
situation.
Worsening conditions eventually led
to a revolution and the founding of
the Islamic Republic in 1979
followed by the nationalization of
the oil industry. The country has
been the target of economic
sanctions by the US ever since.
As a consequence, among others, it
is impossible to use international
credit cards or transfer money from
abroad inside Iran today.

6. Iran lies between Iraq and Afghanistan. It is roughly the size of
the UK, France, Germany and Spain combined. I took a plane
from Hong Kong to Tehran, via Dubai.
Afghanistan
Iran
Iraq
China
Dubai

7. Tehran, the capital of Iran was my first stop.

8. Tehran University is the largest and
oldest university of the country.
60% of students are female, and it
has played a key role in major
political events of Iran’s modern
history.
It was in front of the university
gates that the Shah's army opened
fire on dissident students,
contributing to the 1979 revolution
that lead to the establishment of the
Islamic Republic.
In 1999, student protests against
the closure of a reformist
newspaper lead to violent clashes
with pro-government militias on the
university campus, which spread to
other cities.

9. Given the political sensitivity, I was not expecting to be allowed
to enter the campus. I walked up to the gate, and this friendly
guard let me in.

10. Faculty directory at the university entrance.

11. Students in the university garden.

12. Shop window of a bookstore around Tehran University. Hi Bill.

13. More books.

14. Daneshgu Park at dusk, close to Tehran University.

15. Many spaces usually occupied by commercial billboards in other
countries often carry quotes from the Quran. This one under a
bridge in Tehran.

16. Entrance of the National Jewels Museum.

17. Wall painting in Tehran, representing Imam Khomeini, leader of
the country during the Iran-Iraq war from 1980-1988, during
which Saddam Hussein received support from the West.

18. From Tehran I took a bus to Esfahan, about 6 hours covering
400km.

19. Iran’s masterpiece is Esfahan, and Esfahan’s masterpiece is
Imam Square, containing some of the finest architecture in the
Middle East. Female students sketch one of the buildings.

20. Inside the Imam Mosque.

21. Ceiling of the main dome of the Imam Mosque.

22. Ceiling and sky inside the Imam mosque.

23. Doorway inside the Imam mosque.

24. Another doorway.

25. Entrance of the Ali Qapu Palace seen through the main entrance
door of the Imam Mosque.

26. Imam Square with the Imam Mosque behind.

27. Entrance of the Sheikh Lotfollah mosque on Imam Square.

28. Façade of the Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque in Esfahan.

29. Inside the Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque.

30. Ceiling of the dome of the Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque.

31. Entrance of the Sheikh Lotfollah mosque viewed through the wall
in the main dome.

32. Entrance of the Imam Mosque at dusk.

33. Children playing in the fountains on Imam Square at dusk.

34. Imam Square at night.

35. One of my main concerns was that I might get into trouble by
looking at or talking to women. As it turned out, the women
came talking to me, asking for a picture.

36. Si-o-Seh bridge and the banks of the Zayandeh river at night.

37. Iran has long had an important Christian community. Entrance of
an Armenian church.

38. Doorpost of the same church, also called Vank Cathedral,
indicating the date is was built at the right bottom corner: 1606.
The script is Armenian.

39. Entrance of a chapel in the same church.

40. Jesus taken from the cross above the entrance of the chapel.

41. Entrance of the Chehel Sotun palace, reception hall for Shah
Abbas II.

42. Female art students drawing motives from the entrance of the
Chehel Sotun palace.

43. The Backstreet Boys also wanted a picture.

44. Fresco inside the Chehel Sotun palace showing two ladies with
scanty clothing, an amazing feat in a strictly Islamic country.

45. Well-kept public parks are a common feature of Iranian cities.

46. Same park. Different angle.

47. Iran’s retail industry is still largely taking place in the age-old
bazaars, although slowly chain stores and franchising emerge.

48. Interior of Restaurant Sherahzad, serving traditional Persian
cuisine.

49. South entrance of the Bazar-e-Bozorgh, largest bazaar of
Esfahan.

50. Fatemeh invited me for lunch with her mom. Both were younger
than me!

51. The chess game is a 6th century Persian invention, although
derived from an older Indian game. This public park has several
public chess boards - just bring your own pieces.

52. Many older Iranians ride Chinese-made bicycles, like this
Feng Huang.

53. Final stop: Shiraz.

54. Tomb of the nephew of the seventh Shiite Imam.

55. Quote from the Quran above a doorpost, leaving no doubt that
hospitality is key.

56. Zakat, or giving to charity, is one of the five pillars of Islam. That
is taken seriously in Iran, where donation boxes are placed on
every street corner. I first thought they were post boxes.

57. Gardens surrounding the tomb of Iran’s greatest poet, Hafez,
who lived during the 14th century.

58. Stairs leading to the shrine.

59. The actual tomb, constantly surrounded by people posing flower
petals on the stone.

60. I have learned so much from God,
that I can no longer call myself
a Christian, a Hindu, a Muslim, a Buddhist, a Jew.
The Truth has shared so much of Itself with me,
that I can no longer call myself
a man, a woman, an angel, or even a pure soul.
Love has befriended me so completely,
it has turned to ash and freed me
of every concept and image my mind has ever known.
--- Hafez, 14th century

61. Two people on a bench in Melli Park.

62. Fountains in front of the Citadel of Karim Khan.

63. Veils on sale at a night market in Shiraz.

64. Persepolis, ceremonial capital of the Persian Empire, destroyed
by Alexander the Great in 331 BC.

65. Bas-reliefs at Persepolis.

66. Lion catches bull.

67. Ferohar, one of the primary symbols of Zoroastrism, the ancient
state religion of the Persian Empire before the arrival of Islam.

68. Zoroastrian building of an unspecified function near Persepolis.

69. Watching the Matrix Reloaded in my hotel room via cable TV, just
before flying to Dubai.

70. What I didn’t catch on camera:
The man who wouldn’t let me buy a
melon from the fruit shop next to
his house, because he wanted to
buy it for me, as his guest.
The owner of the milkshake shop,
who refused to keep the change and
when I left his shop with the change
on the counter, sent his waiter in
pursuit.
The owner of the travel agency who
got me a ticket on a full plane.
The extraordinary friendliness
towards strangers, also among
Iranians. A taxi driver asking for
directions resulted in a small group
of people offering advice, and
eventually someone on a motorcycle
acting as a guide.

71. Puzzled, humbled, and then almost
ashamed that the world’s most
hospitable and friendly people with
a culture of 4000 years can be
depicted as evil, and that most
people simply accept it without
questioning.
Obviously not all is well in Iran –
see your favorite news outlet for
those stories - but as US
Undersecretary of State Harriman
wrote in the preface of a 1965
Time/Life book on China, “An
informed public is essential for the
development of sound foreign
policies. We owe it to ourselves to
know as much as possible about our
contemporary world”.
Mr. Harriman, we have a long way
to go.