1. International Journal of Advanced Research in Engineering and Technology (IJARET), ISSN 0976 –
6480(Print), ISSN 0976 – 6499(Online) Volume 5, Issue 3, March (2014), pp. 56-62, © IAEME
56
UTILITY AND FUNCTIONAL CHERACTERISTICS OF
BAMBOO/POLYESTER BLENDED WOVEN FABRICS FOR GARMENTS
KEDAR NATH DAS & INDRAMANI KANDI
Professor & Head, Department of Textile Engineering, College of Engineering and Technology, Odisha,
India,
Assistant Professor, Department of Textile Engineering, College of Engineering and Technology,
Odisha, India,
ABSTRACT
In this work, the utility & functional characteristics of garment made from woven fabrics of
bamboo/ polyester yarns have been studied in relation to pick density, weave and % of component fibers
in the blends. The objective of utility & functional characteristics was to determine the influence of
fabric factors such as Pick density ,weave and the constituent fibers characteristics on the fabric
properties such as GSM , Tensile Strength, Tearing Strength, Abrasion Resistance & Pilling Propensity,
The experimental results show that 2/30s bamboo in warp way of twill woven fabric exhibit Tensile
Strength, Tearing Strength, Abrasion Resistance & Pilling Propensity when compared to other Samples.
KEY WORDS: Utility, Functional, Physical, Picks Per Inch, Weave Type, % Component Fibres,
Tensile Strength, Tearing Strength, Abrasion Resistance, Pilling Propensity.
I. INTRODUCTION
Now a days, consumer education level is increasing, becoming more & more health
conscious and they have become more careful towards their living conditions than they were
previously. Bamboo fibre is a new material developed at the beginning of the 21st
century. It has
many characteristics that meet the current requirement of end uses. But today we still don’t know the
actual performance behaviour of bamboo fibres in many application. Availability of bamboo fibres is
sufficient due to the plant’s high growth rate. It is an eco friendly, biodegradable, natural
antibacterial, anti-fungal product, having good soil release and ultra violet protection ability.
Bamboo fibres having high modulus, softness, brightness as well as uv-protective characteristics
with its high moisture absorption capacity, breathability & fast drying behaviour due to its unique
microstructure. Bamboo is a naturally occurring composite material which grows abundantly in the
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2. International Journal of Advanced Research in Engineering and Technology (IJARET), ISSN 0976 –
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topical countries. It is considered a composite material because it consists of cellulose fibres
imbedded in a lignin matrix which are aligned along the length of the bamboo providing maximum
tensile strength, flexural rigidity in that direction .From application point of view, bamboo is also one
of the oldest building materials used as, flooring, ceiling, walls, windows, doors, housing roofs,
trusses, rafters & purlins. In Asian countries bamboo has been used for household utilities as
containers, chop sticks, woven-mats, fishing-poles, cricket-boxes, handcrafts, chairs etc. It can also
be used in construction purpose for bridges, water transportation facilities & skyscraper scaffolding.
There are about 35 species now used as raw material for the pulp & paper industry. Bamboo fibres
are commonly used as, bamboo intimate apparels, sweaters, bathsuits, mats, blankets, towels,
underwears, tight-t shirts, socks & bamboo non-woven products, sanitary material (bandage, mask,
surgical cloth, nurse’s wear, mattress) & food packing bags. Bamboo fibre’s mechanical process
(spinning) is same as viscose fibres. Other properties of bamboo fibres is superior to viscose.
Bamboo fibre is very low strength fibre, which makes the spinning processes difficult due to fly
generation in roving. Also the production cost of bamboo yarn is around 2.5 times that of the cotton
yarn. Bamboo fibres low tensile strength decreases further when wet. In order to avail the positive
attribute of the fibres at economical rate, the fibres have been blended with polyester. Modern day,
living condition require clothing that are hygienic, comfortable, hardwearing & having easy care
properties. No, single textile fibres have all thus desirable attributes. Synthetic fibres like polyester
have better wear &easy care properties but they lack many of the comfort & hygiene related
properties. But regenerated fibres like bamboo have good moisture related properties leading to good
comfort as well as good hygiene related properties but they lack wear & easy care properties. So,
blended yarns composed of polyester/bamboo and fabrics produced from them can provide optimum
desirable properties. So, an attempt has been made in this current research to study the different
aspects of the B/P blended yarns and fabrics produced from these. Accordingly the objectives of this
study are,
1-To prepare polyester/bamboo blended yarns of different blends & study their properties.
2-To study the properties of polyester & bamboo blended woven fabrics prepared from these yarns.
II. MATERIALS AND METHODS
2.1. Some Precaution in Bamboo Yarn Production Process[1]
It is similar to traditional viscose yarn production process. But some minor adjustments
should be required for bamboo yarn production process.
Bamboo fiber producing flyings in Draw frame & Speed frame, so we should adopte a high
humidity (65%-70%) and a low temperature (25°C) in Industry.
High coefficient of twist should be adopted due to weak cohesion between bamboo fiber.
Card web tension and roving tension should be kept low for this weak cohesion of fibres.
2.2. Some Precaution in Bamboo Fabric Weaving [1]
Twist coefficient in the range from 350 to 410 turns per meter should be required for
requirement of higher tensile strength of pure bamboo yarn for weaving in high speed modern looms.
Relatively low and even tension should be maintained during warping and sizing process of bamboo
yarn, because of moisture regain rate and elongation is relatively high in case of bamboo yarn. It is
better to choose starch as main component of sizing agent due to hydrophilic nature of bamboo
fibres. Sometimes it is better by choosing some acrylic acid as part of sizing agent rather than PVA
to improve yarn softness and makes it easy to dividing the yarns and also to decreasing yarn
hairiness. The moisture regain rate should be kept 8-9%, because bamboo fibers are breakable when
moisture regain is too low & also bamboo fibers tensile strength decreases dramatically when

3. International Journal of Advanced Research in Engineering and Technology (IJARET), ISSN 0976 –
6480(Print), ISSN 0976 – 6499(Online) Volume 5, Issue 3, March (2014), pp. 56-62, © IAEME
58
moisture regain rate is too high. Weaving should be maintained in lower tensions and carried out at
relative humidity of 65-75%.
2.3. Experimental Plan
The present study was performed in following steps.
2.3.1. Yarn Preparation
Yarns of five different blends along with a100%bamboo yarn were produced on ring spinning
system after proper mixing and blending. The various yarn samples prepared were of blends, 30/70,
40/60, 50/50, 60/40 and 70/30 bamboo/polyester. The yarns produced were then wound to form
cones. All the six yarns were then tested for, strength and elongation, uneven-ness and hairiness.
2.3.2. Fabric Preparation
The yarns were woven in an automatic dobby sample loom with 100% bamboo yarn as warp.
Two types of fabric (plain & 2/2 twill) were produced from each of the six weft yarns with different
pick density as 64 ppi, 62ppi & 60ppi. All the fabric samples were then washed with 2 gpl soda
solution & 2gpl soda ash at boil for 30 mins. Subsequently they were hot washed twice and finally
cold washed. The pH was maintained at 7. The sample were then dried & ironed for testing purpose.
2.3.3. Preparation of Samples
The yarns used in the study were made from blends of regenerated bamboo and polyester
fibres.18 kgs of bamboo fibre and 18 kgs of polyester fibres was available as raw material, taken for
spinning .A predetermined quantity of the fibres according to the blend percentage was hand opened
and sandwiched well to produce a homogenous blend. The fibre mix was then processed in
Blowroom line followed by MMC card and then two passages of Lakshmi Rieter Drawframe
(DO/2S). The drawn slivers were converted into rove of 0.40/gm and then to yarns on a Lakshmi
Rieter Ringframe (G-5/1).The spindle speed being constant at 14500 rpm. Then the yarn was fed to
the laxmi automatic sample loom having reed width of 20 inch.
2.4. Process Parameters for Fabric Preparation
Make:- Laxmi automatic power loom
Type:- Dobby, Width:-20 inches, Reed no.:-64, Reed space:-20 inch, Ends per inch:-72
Picks per inch:- 64, 62, 60,
Weft yarn:-6 types of blends of bamboo & polyester as 30/70, 40/60,
50/50, 60/40, 70/30, 100/0.,
Warp yarn:- 2/30s
(15s
) count of 100% bamboo yarn
Types of Fabric Prepared:- Plain & 2/2twill
Blend % of Bamboo & Polyester in the Woven Garments as bp1(67/33), bp2(72/28), bp3(76/24),
bp4(81/19), bp5(86/14), bp6(100/0)
III. TESTING
3.1. Tensile Strength
The tensile strength of the fabric sample was tested on Digital Tensile Strength Tester
according to A.S.T.M. Standard D5035-95.

4. International Journal of Advanced Research in Engineering and Technology (IJARET), ISSN 0976 –
6480(Print), ISSN 0976 – 6499(Online) Volume 5, Issue 3, March (2014), pp. 56-62, © IAEME
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Fabric dimension:- 300×62.5mm
(including 6.25mm fringes in both sides)
Gauge length:- 200 mm
Traverse speed: 200mm/min
No. of observation: warp wise-5
weft wise-5
Capacity: 500kg
3.2. Tearing Strengths
Tearing strength of fabric samples was determined on a Elemendrof Tearing Tester in
accordance with ASTM test method D 1424.Fabric strip of dimension 100 ± 2 mm long and
63 ± 0.15 mm wide were taken.
The critical dimension i.e. the distance to be torn was taken to be 43 ± 0.15 mm. The sample
curing was done with a template .The tearing strength was calculated by using formula:-
Tearing strength(gm) = 64 × scale reading. 10 observations were taken in each sample.
3.3. Measurement of Abrasion resistance
Abrasion resistance was measured on C.S.I.Abrasion Tester. The size of sample was 8 inch×1
inch for both warp & weft direction. The samples were rubbed until broken. The number of cycles
required to break the specimen due to flex abrasion were noted. The speed of the machine was 108
cycles/min. Numbers of samples tested were 10 warp wise & 10 weft wise according to A.S.T.M.
standard D3885-99.
Tension load to the flex weight carriage: 4 lb
Spigot loads: 1 lb
3.4. Measurement of Pilling
Pilling propensity of the sample was tested on I.C.I. Pillbox Tester (Make: Innolab) according
to A.S.T.M. standard D3512.99.Sample size was 5 × 5 inches and sewn by ½ inch from both sides,
mounted on polyurethane tubules & were tumbled by rotating the box at 60 rpm. The number of pills
generated were counted in each sample and expressed as number of pill per sq. inch of the fabric.
The no of pills formed after 18,000 revolutions (5 hour time)was counted for all the samples & rated
according to ATIRA standard as given in table for each sample. 10 observations were taken for each
sample.
Pill rating No. of pill per square inch. Remarks
1 90-110 very severe pilling
2 40-55 severe pilling
3 25-35 moderate pilling
4 0-12 slight pilling
5 0 no pilling

5. International Journal of Advanced Research in Engineering and Technology (IJARET), ISSN 0976 –
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IV. RESULT AND DISCUSSION
Table.4.1. Tensile strength of bamboo/polyester blended woven fabrics
Blend 60ppi 62ppi 64ppi
plain twill plain twill plain twill
warp weft warp weft warp weft warp weft warp weft warp weft
Bp1 62.1 54.3 64.2 56.3 64.1 56.3 66.1 58.3 66.1 58.3 68.1 60.3
Bp2 61.5 53.6 63.5 54.6 63.5 55.6 65.5 56.6 65.5 57.6 67.5 58.6
Bp3 61.4 53.85 63.4 54.85 63.4 55.85 65.4 56.85 65.4 57.85 67.4 58.85
Bp4 59.8 51.2 61.8 52.2 61.8 53.2 63.8 54.2 63.8 55.2 65.8 56.2
Bp5 58.1 49.9 60.1 50.9 60.1 51.9 62.1 52.9 62.1 53.9 64.1 54.9
Bp6 57.95 46.85 59.95 47.85 59.95 48.85 61.95 49.85 61.95 50.85 63.95 51.85
The above tables of 4.1.show that the fabric tensile strength decreases with increasing
bamboo content in the blend s in both in warp & weft directions. The strength of the bamboo fibres is
lower than that of polyester. Accordingly, the tenacity of the yarn samples decreases with the
bamboo content increases in the blends. Therefore, the tensile strength of the fabric decreases with
increasing bamboo content in the blend(11)
. The fabric tensile strength in the warp direction is more
than the tensile strength in the weft direction. This may be due to doubling of bamboo yarn in warp
direction(2)
. Twill weave fabrics shows more tensile strength than plain woven fabrics due to higher
no. of intersection/repeat in case of twill weave than plain weave which gives higher tensile strength
with a consequent lowering of extension% and vice versa(7)
. More floats, thicker, heavier, More
diagonal effect, lateral stress imposed in fabric is more in case of twill weave structure than plain
weave structure which increases the strength of the former. For this causes the twill weave fabric to
exhibit higher tensile strength than plain weave fabric(8)
. The tensile strength increases with increase
of pick density due to more cover factor of fabrics in both directions.
Table.4.2. Tearing strength of bamboo/polyester blended woven fabrics
Blend 60ppi 62ppi 64ppi
plain twill plain twill plain twill
warp weft warp weft warp weft warp weft warp weft warp weft
Bp1 91 55 102 75.2 90 54 101 74.2 89 53 100 73.2
Bp2 87 52.4 96.5 67.7 86 51.4 95.5 66.7 85 50.4 94.5 65.7
Bp3 87 50 92 62.8 86 49 91 61.8 85 48 90 60.8
Bp4 83 47 88 57 82 46 87 56 81 45 86 55
Bp5 80 46 86 56.8 79 45 85 55.8 78 44 84 54.8
Bp6 79 44 83 48 78 43 82 48 77 42 81 47
It is evident from the table 4.2. that warp & weft way tearing strength increases with increase
in polyester percentage in fabrics due to higher strength of constituent yarns(3)
. Doubling in warp
direction increases the yarn strength & produces compact yarn structure and therefore, the freedom
of warp thread to slide over the weft increases. The flexibility & mobility of yarn in warp direction is
also more than in weft direction. This may be the reason for higher tearing strength in warp direction
than in weft direction. Due to tighter structure, chances of yarn slippage is less in weft direction
showing lesser tearing strength in weft direction. Twill fabrics shows higher tearing strength than

6. International Journal of Advanced Research in Engineering and Technology (IJARET), ISSN 0976 –
6480(Print), ISSN 0976 – 6499(Online) Volume 5, Issue 3, March (2014), pp. 56-62, © IAEME
61
plain fabrics. The greater extent of length of warp & weft floats make structure of twill fabrics looser
than the plain fabrics which may be the reason for lower tearing strength of twill fabrics(3)
. Tearing
strength decreases with increase of pick density of fabrics due to tighter structure of fabrics increase
to increasing the pick density, as a result the chance of yarn slippage is less in any direction showing
less tearing strength.
Table.4.3. Tearing strength of bamboo/polyester blended woven fabrics
Blend
60ppi 62ppi 64ppi
plain twill plain twill plain twill
warp weft warp weft warp weft warp weft warp weft warp weft
Bp1 5835 12620 7410 14198 5845 12630 7420 14198 5855 12640 7430 14208
Bp2 5055 8900 7300 13070 5065 8905 7305 13080 5075 8915 7315 13090
Bp3 4650 8025 7338 10600 4660 8035 7348 10610 4670 8045 7358 10620
Bp4 4042 7570 7222 10080 4052 7580 7232 10090 4062 7590 7242 10100
Bp5 4108 7245 7215 8780 4118 7255 7225 8790 4128 7265 7235 8800
Bp6 2456 3560 6815 4420 2466 3570 6825 4430 2476 3580 6835 4440
Tables of 4.3. evident that the abrasion resistance increases with increase in polyester content.
i.e. polyester rich blends have higher tenacity resulting in higher tensile strength of the fabrics(1,5)
.
Polyester fabric shows higher abrasion resistance than bamboo due to inherently higher strength and
elongation at break of polyester fibre(9)
. The abrasion resistance of twill fabrics is more than plain
woven fabrics due to loose structure, thicker fabric, longer floats & diagonal structure of twill weave
which impose lateral stresses at the time of abrasion(2)
. The abrasion resistance increases with
increasing pick density of woven fabrics from 60 ppi to 64ppi due to increasing of thicker fabric
structure with increasing pick density which impose lateral stresses at the time of abrasion(2)
.
Table.4.4. Tearing strength of bamboo/polyester blended woven fabrics
Blend 60ppi 62ppi 64ppi
plain twill plain twill plain twill
Bp1 34 46 32 45 30 43
Bp2 29 41 27 39 25 37
Bp3 25 36 23 34 21 32
Bp4 22 29 20 27 18 25
Bp5 19 25 17 23 15 21
Bp6 14 21 12 19 10 17
Tables of 4.4. show that The pilling tendency decreases with the decrease in polyester
content in the blended woven fabric. Due to Higher tenacity of polyester fibres prevents pill wear off
during the pilling test & Also the longer length of polyester fibres as compared to the bamboo fibres
increases the pill formation tendency(1)
. Pilling tendency is more in case of twill fabrics than plain
fabrics due to open structure, more floats & less interlacing points in the twill structure than plain
woven structures (6)
. The pilling tendency decreases with the increasing of pick density from 60 ppi
to 64 ppi due to increasing tightness factor with increase of cover factors in the woven fabric.

7. International Journal of Advanced Research in Engineering and Technology (IJARET), ISSN 0976 –
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CONCLUSION
The fabric tensile strength decreases with increasing bamboo content in the blend both in
warp & weft direction of the fabric. The fabric tensile strength in the warp direction is more than that
in the weft direction. Twill fabric shows more tensile strength than plain woven fabric. Tensile
strength increases with increasing the pick density in the fabric.
Tearing strength increases with increase in polyester percentage in the fabric. Tearing
strength in the fabric warp direction is higher than that in the weft direction. Twill fabric shows
higher tearing strength than plain woven fabric. Tearing strength decreases with increasing the pick
density in the fabric.
Abrasion resistance increases with increase in polyester content in the fabric .The abrasion
resistance of twill fabric is more than plain fabric. Abrasion resistance is more in the weft direction
than in the warp direction in the fabric. Abrasion resistance increases with increasing the pick density
in the fabric.
Pilling tendency decreases with decrease in polyester content in the fabric. Pilling tendency is
more in case of twill fabric than the plain woven fabric. Pilling tendency decreases with increasing
the pick density from 60ppi to 64ppi in the fabric.
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