2. Table of Contents
Make-up.................................................................................................14
Foundation & Powder Features .............................................................14
Beauty box: Cover up ........................................................................14
Beauty box: Take cover .....................................................................19
Fixing dry, flaky skin under acne ......................................................24
Make-up artist to the stars Ross Burton advises on how to conceal
dry and flaky skin under acne........................................................24
In the morning................................................................................24
During the day................................................................................25
In the evening.................................................................................25
How to apply face powder.................................................................26
Puffs...............................................................................................26
Brushes...........................................................................................26
Making the most of your make-up: foundation .................................28
Mixing and Blending .........................................................................30
Quick fixes for beauty blunders.........................................................31
Cakey or too-dark foundation........................................................31
Spider-legs mascara .......................................................................31
Creased eyeshadow........................................................................31
Overplucked eyebrows...................................................................31
Go-faster blusher............................................................................31
Squeezing the bejesus out of a spot ...............................................31
Manky nails....................................................................................31
Overdone or streaky self-tan..........................................................31
The best three wash-off skin tints......................................................35
Tips for choosing make-up for Asian skin.........................................38
Covering an uneven complexion ...................................................39
Applying foundation..........................................................................40
What’s the easiest way to apply foundation?.................................40
Foundation for uneven skin tones..................................................44
2
3. I never know what colour foundation to use because my face is two
slightly different colours. Do you have any suggestions? .............44
Help! I want to hide my tattoo.......................................................45
How can I cover facial eczema? ....................................................47
Is powder necessary? .....................................................................49
Lips Features......................................................................................50
Vaseline Lip Therapy, 99p.............................................................50
Blistex Herbal Balm, £2.25............................................................50
Virgin Vie Lip Defence SPF15 Anti-Oxidant Lip Balm, ..............50
Clinique, Superbalm Lip Treatment, £8.50 ...................................51
Lancôme, primordiale lèvres, £20 .................................................52
Caboodles Flower Power lip balm in cherry, £2.79.......................52
Lypsyl lip balm in Strawberry, £1.20 ............................................53
Simple Sun Lip Protector Factor 25, £3.75....................................53
Dry, flaky lips ....................................................................................54
Flaky lips are painful and unattractive. Here's how to get back that
perfect pout. ...................................................................................54
Lip service..........................................................................................55
Has your pucker lost its power? Try these lip rejuvenating products
– they’re the perfect therapy for chapped, weather-weary lips......55
Lipstick tips........................................................................................58
Nine tips to help you get the best from your lippy ........................58
Making the most of your make-up: lipsticks .....................................60
Sidra Shaukat, author of Natural Beauty, explains how to create
new colours from your existing lipsticks.......................................60
Making your lips look thinner............................................................62
John Nelson of Shu Uemura gives us a master class in making lips
appear thinner.................................................................................62
3
4. Selecting the right lip colour..............................................................63
Not all shades of lipstick suit everyone. Different shades look
different on different skin tones.....................................................63
Using lip pencils ................................................................................64
Four reasons to have a lip pencil in your make-up bag .................64
How do I stop lipstick 'bleeding'?..................................................66
Eyes & Eyebrows Features................................................................67
Applying false eyelashes................................................................67
Beauty box: 10 waterproof mascaras put to the test ..........................69
Beauty box:........................................................................................73
Finding your brow shape ...................................................................77
A professional-looking eyebrow shape will transform your face -
find out how to do it yourself.........................................................77
Good grooming for eyebrows............................................................79
Whether you spend four or 40 minutes on your make-up, well-
groomed brows are the difference between looking OK and looking
fabulous..........................................................................................79
Essential tools ................................................................................79
Grooming tips ................................................................................79
Latest trends: Eyelash extensions ......................................................81
Forget nail art, and eyebrow threading. Having eyelash extensions
is the latest craze to take the beauty world by storm. Celebrity
converts include Victoria Beckham. Plucky journalist Jennifer
Howze gave them a road-test.........................................................81
Quick fixes for beauty blunders.....................................................85
Cakey or too-dark foundation........................................................85
Spider-legs mascara .......................................................................85
Creased eyeshadow........................................................................85
Overplucked eyebrows...................................................................85
4
5. Go-faster blusher............................................................................85
Squeezing the bejesus out of a spot ...............................................85
Manky nails....................................................................................85
Overdone or streaky self-tan..........................................................85
Six steps for easy eyeliner application...............................................89
How do you apply eyeliner? I always get a crooked line that ends
up sitting too high. How do the professionals get it right on the line
of the eye? I would like to apply it to my upper lids but don't know
how.................................................................................................89
The cardinal rules of eye colour.........................................................91
Think you know everything about eye make-up? Brush up with our
quick refresher course........................................................................91
Eyes & Eyebrows Q&As ...................................................................93
hoosing the right eye shadow.........................................................93
I'm struggling with false eyelashes ....................................................95
Is home waxing a good idea?.............................................................97
Perfect eyebrows............................................................................99
This year's look for eyes ..............................................................100
Using liquid eyeliner....................................................................101
Cheeks Features ...............................................................................103
Blushing marvelous .....................................................................103
How to apply blusher.......................................................................105
Quick fixes for beauty blunders.......................................................107
Types of blusher...............................................................................111
Fragrance Features...........................................................................113
26 beauty buys for under a tenner................................................113
Body basics..................................................................................113
Skincare........................................................................................113
Eyes..............................................................................................113
Lips ..............................................................................................113
Nails.............................................................................................113
5
6. Foundations..................................................................................113
Hair ..............................................................................................113
Perfume........................................................................................113
Stockists.......................................................................................113
Making your own fragrance.............................................................118
Putting on the spritz .........................................................................121
Seasonal scents.................................................................................125
As with food, for every season there are certain scents that just
seem to 'go' with the weather. Indulge yourself with our fragrant
suggestions...................................................................................125
Hadley Freeman gets a whiff of the sexiest summer fragrances .....130
Oral Features........................................................................................133
Avoid dog breath - give your tongue a manicure ............................133
Brighten up your smile.....................................................................136
Everyone wants whiter teeth, but if you haven't been blessed with a
perfect set you can give nature a helping hand with the latest
technology. Kate Rew looks at the options..................................136
How to have sweet-smelling breath ...............................................140
Bad breath affects most people at some stage of their life, but there
are simple measures to prevent it recurring. Michele Simmons
investigates...................................................................................140
Take care of your teeth ....................................................................144
What's the best way to keep dentists at bay? Michele Simmons
advises..........................................................................................144
Favourite Looks Features.....................................................................149
6 steps to red carpet glamour ...........................................................149
Bring out the sexy you.....................................................................152
Create a Narnia-inspired ice-queen look..........................................154
Get gorgeous for valentine's day......................................................159
1. Relax ........................................................................................159
2. Exfoliate...................................................................................159
Get your autumn face on! ................................................................164
Foundation ...................................................................................164
6
7. Eyebrows......................................................................................165
Glam-it-up before you go-go.. .........................................................167
Make-up for redheads ......................................................................171
Q. I just changed my hair colour and now I'm a redhead. However,
my old make-up routine doesn't seem to work well with my new
hair colour. What should I do?.....................................................171
Perfect make-up for beautiful brides................................................173
Choose a make-up counter:..........................................................174
Estée Lauder.................................................................................174
Max Factor...................................................................................174
BeneFit.........................................................................................174
Bobbi Brown................................................................................174
Molton Brown..............................................................................174
Origins..........................................................................................174
Perfect wedding make-up ................................................................178
For your face................................................................................178
For your eyes................................................................................179
For your lips and cheeks ..............................................................180
The changing look of Renee ............................................................183
General style: ...............................................................................183
Make-up.......................................................................................184
Hair ..............................................................................................184
Informal icon at the Shark Tale film premiere.............................185
General style ................................................................................185
Make-up.......................................................................................185
Hair: .............................................................................................185
Red carpet classy at the Golden Globe Awards...........................186
General style ................................................................................186
7
8. Make-up.......................................................................................187
Hair ..............................................................................................187
Favourite Looks Q&As....................................................................188
Spring looks .................................................................................188
Celebrity Looks Features .................................................................190
9 cult beauty classics....................................................................190
Confessions of a beauty expert ........................................................195
Get the Celebrity Look - Scarlett Johansson....................................198
Get the celebrity look: Alicia Keys..................................................202
Get the celebrity look: Angelina Jolie .............................................204
Get the celebrity look: Brandy.........................................................208
Get the celebrity look: Courteney Cox Arquette .............................211
Get the celebrity look: Eve ..............................................................215
Get the celebrity look: Gwen Stefani...............................................218
Get the celebrity look: Halle Berry..................................................222
Get the celebrity look: Jennifer Lopez.............................................225
Get the celebrity look: Kate Winslet................................................229
Get the celebrity look: Nicole Kidman ............................................232
Get the celebrity look: Penelope Cruz .............................................235
Get the celebrity look: Sheryl Crow ................................................238
Get the celebrity look: Sienna Miller...............................................240
Get the look: Charlotte Church........................................................243
Get the Look: Mischa Barton's Make-up.........................................245
Hair secrets of the stars: Beyoncé Knowles.....................................247
Hair secrets of the stars: Charlize Theron........................................251
Hair secrets of the stars: Cynthia Nixon ..........................................253
Hair secrets of the stars: Dame Judi Dench .....................................255
Hair secrets of the stars: Dido's look................................................256
Hair secrets of the stars: Felicity Huffman ......................................258
Hair secrets of the stars: Halle Berry ...............................................261
Hair secrets of the stars: Jennifer Aniston .......................................263
Hair secrets of the stars: Jennifer Lopez..........................................265
Hair secrets of the stars: Julia Roberts.............................................268
Hair secrets of the stars: Julianne Moore.........................................270
Hair secrets of the stars: Juliette Binoche........................................274
Hair secrets of the stars: Kate Hudson.............................................277
Hair secrets of the stars: Kim Cattrall..............................................279
Hair secrets of the stars: Kristin Davis ............................................283
Hair secrets of the stars: Marisa Tomei ...........................................285
Hair secrets of the stars: Nicole Kidman .........................................288
Hair secrets of the stars: Nicole Kidman .........................................290
Hair secrets of the stars: Sarah Jessica Parker .................................292
Star style...........................................................................................294
Glowing Jennifrer Lopez .........................................................294
Soulful Alicia Keys..................................................................294
8
9. Radiant Kate Winslet ...............................................................294
Glamorous Halle Berry ............................................................294
Shimmering Courteney Cox Arquette......................................294
Wholesome Brandy..................................................................294
Natural Sheryl Crow ................................................................294
Sultry Penelope Cruz ...............................................................294
Retro Gwen Stefani..................................................................295
Vibrant Angelina Jolie .............................................................295
Sexy Nicole Kidman ................................................................295
celebrity hair flair.........................................................................295
Blonde diva: Beyonce Knowles...............................................295
Redhead crop: Cynthia Nixon..................................................295
Classic cut: Dame Judi Dench .................................................295
Short and sassy: Dido...............................................................295
Cutting edge: Halle Berry ........................................................295
Long and classy: Jennifer Aniston...........................................295
Shoulder-length glam: Jennifer Lopez.....................................295
Pretty woman: Julia Roberts ....................................................295
Short and layered: Juliette Binoche .........................................295
Elegantly sexy: Kim Catrall.....................................................295
Classic sophistication: Kristin Davis .......................................295
Sleek and silky: Liv Tyler........................................................295
Tousled temptress: Madonna ...................................................295
Straightened waves: Nicole Kidman........................................295
9
10. Bold curls: Sarah Jessica Parker ..............................................295
Tips & Tricks Features.........................................................................296
12 travel-sized essentials..................................................................296
Are your cosmetics past their use-by date?......................................299
Know when to throw....................................................................300
Naturally the best? .......................................................................301
Shelf life checklist........................................................................302
Mascara........................................................................................302
Tips ..............................................................................................302
Moisturiser...................................................................................303
Foundation Shelf Life ..................................................................304
Tips ..............................................................................................305
Powder .........................................................................................305
Tips ..............................................................................................306
Concealer .....................................................................................306
Tips ..............................................................................................306
Blusher.........................................................................................307
Tips ..................................................................................................307
Eyeshadow.......................................................................................307
Tips ..................................................................................................307
Eyeliner and lipliner.........................................................................308
Tips ..................................................................................................308
Lipstick ............................................................................................308
Tips ..................................................................................................308
Lipgloss........................................................................................309
Tips ..............................................................................................309
Fragrance......................................................................................309
Tips ..............................................................................................309
Best kept secrets...............................................................................311
Confessions of a beauty expert ........................................................314
Finding your brow shape .................................................................318
Create the line ..............................................................................318
10
11. Pluck ............................................................................................318
Brush and trim..............................................................................318
Fill in:...........................................................................................319
Good grooming for eyebrows......................................................320
Essential tools ..............................................................................320
Grooming tips ..............................................................................320
Hair and make-up tips for the festive season...................................322
Colours.........................................................................................322
Top tips ........................................................................................322
Foundation ...................................................................................323
Eyes..............................................................................................323
Lips ..............................................................................................324
Work to party...............................................................................324
Party Hair.....................................................................................325
How to apply blusher.......................................................................327
Creams and gels...........................................................................328
Looking good on a hangover ...........................................................329
Skin ..............................................................................................329
Make-up.......................................................................................330
Hair ..............................................................................................331
Fashion.........................................................................................332
Make-up to go..................................................................................334
Making the most of your make-up: foundation ...............................338
Making the most of your make-up: lipsticks ...................................341
Organising your beauty drawer........................................................343
Consider their shelf life................................................................343
Keep it simple ..............................................................................344
Pre-party pamper programme ..........................................................345
Quick fixes for beauty blunders.......................................................349
Cakey or too-dark foundation......................................................349
11
12. Spider-legs mascara .....................................................................349
Creased eyeshadow......................................................................349
Overplucked eyebrows.................................................................349
Go-faster blusher..........................................................................349
Squeezing the bejesus out of a spot .............................................349
Manky nails..................................................................................349
Overdone or streaky self-tan........................................................349
Redheads Unite!...............................................................................353
Member advice: ...........................................................................353
The golden rules of bronzing...........................................................356
The perfect winter make-up bag ......................................................359
Face..............................................................................................359
Eyeshadow...................................................................................361
Lipstick ........................................................................................361
Mascara........................................................................................362
Powder .........................................................................................363
Blusher.........................................................................................363
Fragrance......................................................................................363
Wonderful winter splurges...........................................................364
Tips & Tricks Q&As............................................................................366
Caring for make-up brushes.............................................................366
Fashion forecast 2006 ......................................................................368
Patterns and prints........................................................................369
Shapes and styles .............................................................................370
By day..........................................................................................370
By night........................................................................................371
Accessories ..................................................................................371
Must buys.....................................................................................372
12
14. Make-up
Foundation & Powder Features
Beauty box: Cover up
When it comes to camouflaging dark under-eye circles
or the occasional spot, there’s no greater secret weapon
than concealer. And, as the weather grows increasingly
chillier, the days of successfully hiding these flaws
behind the last of a sun-kissed tan are long gone.
Because we could all use a little help taking cover,
iVillage staff members tested some of the most popular
brands of concealer to see how they rated. Here’s what
we found.
1. Liz Collinge Easy Stick, dark; £7.50. This
product doubles as a foundation and concealer.
The stick applicator glided on
2. easily and transformed into a powdery
consistency on application. However, I felt that it
wasn’t heavy enough to cover red spots or dark
circles – it works better as a foundation rather
than a concealer, because it helps even out your
complexion. I’d buy this product if I was well-
rested and didn’t need to cover up severe under-
eye circles. I loved the packaging – the classy
silver tube was compact enough to fit into my
make-up bag. The price was right, too.
14
15. 3. No. 7 Blemish Concealer, fair; £5.25. This
product went on smoothly and covered evenly. I
normally prefer using concealer for the under-eye
area, namely because my shadows are so bad,
but this one was actually better for spots than for
under-eye circles. I’d buy this product because it
wasn’t heavy and didn’t cake or flake when I put it
on. It was a good colour for me and helped to
even out my skin tone.
4. L’Oréal Perfection Magic Concealer, £5.99. I
liked the creamy and smooth consistency of this
product. It did look patchy, however, on the areas
where my skin was dry. It brightened the skin
around my eyes effectively and was also good at
lightening the darker parts of my face. I tried using
it on spots as well, but it wasn’t as effective – in
fact it drew attention to them. The concealer
lasted all day, but I would’ve reapplied if I was
going out in the evening. Overall, the product was
quite good value and I liked it because it made me
look less tired.
5. Maybelline Great Wear Concealer, fair; £4.95. I
was very impressed by how well this concealer
camouflaged my under-eye circles – it hid them
without looking cakey on my skin. I used this
product mainly under my eyes, but I also dotted it
on various spots and blotchy, red patches. I’d
definitely buy this product because it was easy to
15
16. apply, gave me good coverage and looked nice
either with or without foundation. It has now
replaced my old concealer, which seems much
too cakey by comparison.
6. No. 17 Colour Corrective Stick, £2.50.The
consistency of this concealer made it hard to
apply. However, it came in the shape of a lipstick
applicator, which I liked. It covered dark circles,
but left me with a green tinge (the colour of the
concealer) in the places I used it. Although I’m
aware the green is meant to even out the
darkness of under-eye circles, even by using the
product sparingly I couldn’t avoid looking seasick.
It also accentuated my pores. I had to apply
foundation over the concealer to cover up the
green colour, so I probably wouldn’t buy this
product.
7. Estée Lauder Touche Éclat, £20. This concealer
was quite thin and it absorbed easily into my skin.
The concealer is pumped into a clever paint
brush-type applicator. In fact, it really lightened up
the area around my eyes. I don’t think it would be
very effective as a cover-up for blemishes or spots
because it has such a light consistency. It’s very
expensive, but worth it if you want a light cover up
to camouflage your under-eye circles. I loved this
product because it was perfect for my skin and it
effectively covered up my dark circles.
16
17. 8. Clinique Soft Conceal Corrector, £11.50. This
product went on smoothly and evenly with a little
smudging action. I used it on my under-eye area
and a few blemishes, and overall it was quite long-
wearing. It camouflaged under-eye circles better
than spots. I’d buy this product because I know
the brand is trustworthy and it seemed to soften
fine, dry lines.
9. Estée Lauder Lucidity Light Diffusing
Concealer (SPF 8), light; £15. This concealer
had a great consistency – not too thick or thin. It
was very pale and had a nice light diffusing sheen
to it. The concealer is contained in a thin wand
and is easy to apply via the spongy, pen-like tip. It
covered the red patches around my nose very
well. I do, however, think this concealer would be
more effective used with a foundation or tinted
moisturiser, as it was obvious where the
concealed patches were. I loved the sleek
packaging of this product, but the texture was
slightly too thick for me. For someone used to
wearing a daily foundation, though, this concealer
would be a must-have item.
10. Elizabeth Arden Flawless Finish
Concealer, £16. This product had quite a subtle
and natural effect – it covered my under eye
circles fairly well, but I needed to use a foundation
too. I’d buy this product because it was a treat to
use. I don’t normally use concealer, as some
17
18. brands can be too cakey and dry. However this
one was great, as it is quite light and subtly blends
in very well. I will continue to use it and
recommend it to friends.
18
19. Beauty box: Take cover
Foundation is the one product we all dread buying
because it’s essential for an even complexion but it’s
difficult to find one that works with your skin tone.
However, choosing a foundation that’s right for you
doesn’t have to be a daunting task. Experts recommend
starting with a shade you think may work, blending in a
bit on the back of your hand, then waiting a minute to
see if the colour changes once applied. Keep testing
hues until you find one in which you can’t tell where one
foundation ends and your skin begins. We did our own
version of this test in-house and also
looked at some other characteristics that make
foundation a must-have for your cosmetic bag. Here’s
what we uncovered.
1. Boots’ Botanics Fresh Faced Foundation
Stick, ‘Sweet Ginger’: £10 / 10g. This foundation
was thin and it glided easily on to my skin. I didn’t
need to apply powder, as it was great as a
foundation and a concealer. It stayed on for most
of the day and made my skin feel very soft. I liked
this product because it was practical, easy to use,
covered blemishes and didn’t make my skin break
out. I would certainly use it again.
19
20. 2. Clarins’ Hydrating Liquid Foundation (Oil-
Free): £17 / 30ml. More on the thin side than
thick, this product was quite smooth and matt. It
lasted all day and camouflaged my dark undereye
circles nicely while minimising fine lines. I have
oily skin, so I actually applied a bit of powder later
in the day when I felt a little shiny. It seemed
slightly too ‘make-upy’ for me – I would probably
just buy an undereye concealer in the future.
3. Superdrug’s Kolor Everyday Invisible
Foundation, ‘Ivory’: £3.99 / 45ml. I liked the
medium-thick consistency, but this is a little heavy
for everyday use for someone with decent skin. It
went on nicely but had too much of a dry, powdery
finish, so it might be better for someone with oilier
skin. I liked the fact that it had UVA/UVB filters,
but I prefer a foundation with SPF cover. Also,
when I buy foundation, I like to feel I’m treating my
skin to something luxurious (and preferably
French), so the utilitarian packaging put me off – it
looked like a paint tube.
4. Boots’ Liz Collinge Natural Foundation: £7 /
40ml. This product went on smoothly and evenly
and didn’t look cakey. I usually use thinner
foundation, but I was impressed with this one as it
hid my undereye circles and blemishes quite well.
I applied some bronzing pearls to give myself
more colour which had a nice effect. I didn’t need
20
21. to reapply the foundation all day, but I’d say it’s
better suited for nighttime on account of its thick
texture. I liked this product because it gave me
nice, natural looking coverage and made me feel
confident.
5. Mac’s Studio Finish Matte: £14.50 / 30ml. This
foundation moisturised my skin and made it feel very
soft. It didn’t conceal my undereye circles or
blemishes, but I didn’t mind because it evened out
my skin tone. It lasted the entire day and I didn’t
need to reapply. I liked this product because it
was practical, came in a handy size tube, it was a
nice colour, wasn’t too thick and it complemented
my skin tone. I would certainly buy it again.
6. Maybelline’s Smooth Result Foundation,
‘Cameo’: £6.99 / 30ml. This medium heavy
foundation wasn’t too cakey and provided
fantastic coverage. It went on evenly and made
my skin look really smooth. Unfortunately it did not
minimise my spots that well, but it gave me a fresh
look when I put powder over it. The foundation
stayed on all day, it moisturised my skin and gave
it a lovely glow. I would certainly buy this product
again, and I have recommended it to all my
friends.
7. Boots’ No. 17 Sheer Cover Tinted Moisturiser,
‘Extra Fair (05)’: £3.75 / 40ml.This product had a
nice consistency, but wasn’t as moisturising as the
product name led me to believe. It evened out my
21
22. skin tone, but I did need to apply powder on top to
cover my blemishes. Plus, it didn’t make me break
out, and I’ve got quite sensitive skin, so top marks
there. I think all make-up should be reapplied in
the evening, so I wasn’t surprised that this
foundation didn’t last all day. I would buy this
product, but probably only as an inexpensive
moisturiser to keep at work rather than one I use
all the time. I’d have preferred it if it were a little
thicker.
8. Origins’ Stay Tuned Balancing Face Make Up,
‘Linen’: £15 / 33mls/1fl oz. This light and
pleasant product went on easily but didn’t
completely mask the circles under my eyes. It did,
however, blend in the uneven bits. I applied a little
powder for a matt look, but it probably wasn’t
necessary as it dried quite matt anyway. The
foundation lasted all evening, but I probably
should have applied another coat during the day.
It’s designed for a combination skin – greasy in
the middle, dry at the sides. It worked well on my
face and made my skin feel soft. I would definitely
consider buying this product.
9. Prescriptives’ Virtual Skin Foundation: £22 / 30
ml. I liked the thin and light consistency of this
foundation. It felt like I wasn’t wearing anything,
and it moisturised my skin. It is light, though, so
it’s better for giving an even colour and a bit of a
22
23. glow rather than hardcore coverage – good for
mild eye bags but not for large volcanic eruptions.
It made my skin feel softer and smoother and I
didn’t apply powder, although you probably could
do without clogging your pores. I would have
reapplied if I was going out in the evening. It’s
quite pricey, but I’d buy this product again
because it’s very good.
10. Anna Sui’s Liquid Foundation: £22.50 /
30ml. This is a very light foundation and is perfect
for everyday use if you don’t have much to hide. If
you only want to apply it to certain areas like the
dreaded T-zone or on ruddy cheeks, it’s easy to
blend in. I felt quite glamorous with it on, and all
my red blotches and patches were evened out. I
love the creamy consistency, the packaging and
the lovely rose scent of this product – I would buy
it again. It gave me a good, glowing complexion
and made me feel radiant.
23
24. Fixing dry, flaky skin under acne
Make-up artist to the stars Ross Burton advises on how
to conceal dry and flaky skin under acne
As one of Lancôme's make-up artists, Ross Burton has
had a behind-the-scenes presence at many important
fashion shows and photo shoots. He has made up
models and movie stars, including Lancôme
spokeswoman Uma Thurman. Here Ross shares some
great ideas for fixing the dry, flaky skin that often
appears under acne.
In the morning
Step 1: Use an oil-free cleanser to keep the skin's surface
clean. Follow with a toner to remove any make- up that
remains on the skin. Pat dry and follow with a light,
hydrating moisturiser with a pump applicator (to prevent
dipping your fingers into anything and
transferring it to your face).
Step 2: If you wear foundation, use an oil-free formula
only in the areas where you need it.
Step 3: The biggest mistake women make in concealing
acne-prone skin is using too much product as a cover-
up. Use a fine-bristle make-up brush to blend three
24
25. warm shades of concealer to match your skin tone, and
apply the concealer with a dotting movement instead of
left to right paint strokes. The goal is to diminish the
redness and discoloration caused by the pimple(s).
Step 4: Set with transparent, oil-free powder to match
your skin tone.
During the day
Step 1: Always carry compact powder for touch-ups.
Make sure the puff is not facing the make-up. Keep the
plastic piece between the puff and the powder, or turn
the puff upside down.
Step 2: If the area around your spot(s) becomes visibly
dry during the day, apply a clear gel on top of your
make-up to keep the area shine-free without over-drying
it.
In the evening
Step 1: Cleanse and tone the skin following the
recommended morning routine, and then exfoliate.
Exfoliating is an important step because as a blemish
dries, there is dry skin around the entire area. An
exfoliant removes the excess dry skin. You can exfoliate
the whole face or only the areas where you have
clogged up and flakey skin. For very clogged skin,
exfoliate three times a week.
25
26. How to apply face powder
Discover the difference between powder puffs and
brushes and when to use which
Puffs
Powder puffs come in myriad sizes, shapes and colours,
but the most important thing to consider is the texture of
the puff. A medium-textured puff made out of chenille is the
best to apply powder. The fine-textured puffs that usually
come with powder cause streaking. They may
also actually remove foundation. If the hairs on the puff
are too long (marabou for example), you'll get fuzz on
your face.
To use: it's best to use a puff if you tend to shine
excessively or when using a powder
foundation. Do not apply too much powder at once.
Better to blot oil later in the day than have a caked,
overdone look to your face.
Brushes
A brush allows you to apply a lighter amount of powder
than a puff. Large and fluffy, powder brushes can be
used with both loose and pressed powder formulations.
To use: dip the brush in the powder and tap it to shake
off loose powder. Then brush the powder evenly over
your face in downward strokes.
26
27. Tip: Follow the direction your facial hair grows in order
to get the most even application.
27
28. .
Making the most of your make-up: foundation
Foundations come in so many different textures and
combinations that it is very easy to make mistakes. The
foundation should blend in with your natural colouring
and blend in so that it looks as though you are not
wearing any! Your colouring will not exactly match the
colour of the foundation, so it is wise to spend some
time creating your own foundation to match your skin.
The key to getting the exact colour combination for your
skin is experimentation. For your initial experiments you
may prefer to use the cheaper products to limit the cost
of your mistakes. Some cosmetics counters may give
out free samples, especially of new lines, or you may
want to try the teenage end of the market, where
products are budget-priced.
You will need to use at least three foundations to create
your individual colour. If you are pale, stick to two or
three of the palest colours in the range; if you are dark,
pick foundations from the darker end of the range,
adding one pale shade to lighten the mix if it gets too
dark. If your colouring is medium, pick one pale, one
medium and one dark colour, all from the same range.
28
29. You can, of course, try blending the foundations that are
already in your make-up bag, but you will find that they
do not blend easily with each other. For example, if one
is dewy moisturising foundation, and one is a matte oil-
free foundation, each will offset the effects of each
other. So, if possible, stick to colours from the same
range. Liquid foundations are best for blending, as well
as being ideal for oily and black skins, some being oil-
absorbent.
29
30. Mixing and Blending
Lay out the foundations on a clear table. Have ready a
few clean, flat saucers for blending, along with a few
teaspoons. You will need a notebook and pen with
which to note down the different combinations you are
blending. Have a clear bottle ready to store your exact
shade of foundation when you have finished
experimenting.
Start mixing different combinations of the foundations,
making a note of each one. Try to be precise - that is, if
you have used one spoon of shade A to two spoons of
shade B, note this down exactly. When you have three
or four mixes, put them on your cheek/jawline area in
thick strips with a lip brush in good light. Critically
assess which foundation is the best.
If the foundations do not match your skin, try blending
again, until you reach your perfect combination. Make a
note of the exact combination and blend them in exactly
the same proportions to make a full size bottle. There
you have it, the perfect foundation for your skin
colouring!
30
31. Quick fixes for beauty blunders
A tide mark the Thames Estuary would be proud of?
Cheekbones that look more like go-faster stripes
than rose blooms? Barbara Daly, make-up artist to
the late Princess of Wales and top beauty
consultant, has some tips on correcting the most
common beauty disasters
Cakey or too-dark foundation
Spider-legs mascara
Creased eyeshadow
Overplucked eyebrows
Go-faster blusher
Squeezing the bejesus out of a spot
Manky nails
Overdone or streaky self-tan
Cakey or too-dark foundation
Fix it: 'Remove rather than add colour,'
advises Barbara Daly. 'If colour is unevenly blended,
don't add more and attempt to rub in - remove with a
tissue, working from the jaw and hairline outwards with
a sweeping motion. You'd naturally have more colour in
your cheeks anyway, and you don't want to be blending
down into your collar. Don't worry about the area around
31
32. your eyes, as you'd naturally be wearing more make-up
here, too.'
Spider-legs mascara
Fix it: 'DON'T wet the lashes in the hope of just
removing your mascara - it will just clog up,' says
Barbara. 'Similarly, don't apply more. Comb through dry
lashes with an eyelash comb to remove dry product.
(Dust translucent powder lightly over the cheeks to pick
up any mascara flecks). Apply one coat of mascara
carefully and check - you may only need one
application. Concentrate on the outer lashes to open up
the eyes further.'
Creased eyeshadow
Fix it: 'The key to applying eyeshadow is to apply
translucent powder UNDER a powder shadow or OVER
a cream-based one,' says Barbara. 'Wrap your index
finger in a tissue and gently remove any residue. Then
apply a SMALL amount of fresh colour, remembering
the powder rule. Use a smaller eyeshadow brush with a
teeny amount of powder - you can always add more.'
Overplucked eyebrows
Fix it:'Choose an eyebrow pencil as close to your brow
colour as possible and lightly pencil in, following your
natural line,' advises Barbara. 'Then go over with an old
toothbrush to soften the line and make it appear more
natural.'
32
33. Go-faster blusher
Fix it: 'Don't be tempted to add more colour to 'even out'
the stripe,' cautions Barbara. 'Remove some colour with
a tissue and dust a little translucent powder over cheeks
AFTER removing, to even out skin tone but avoid
cakiness. A very common mistake, usually made when
applying make-up in bad light.'
Squeezing the bejesus out of a spot
Fix it: The best advice is not to squeeze in the first
place. But hey - you've gone and done it - what now?
'Apply TCP and wait for the area to dry,' Barbara
advises. 'Then apply concealer to the red area and over
the base of the spot. See how this looks before applying
loose powder - you don't want it to look crusty.
Minimising the redness is the best way to disguise a
blemish - and make sure you wait until it's stopped
'weeping''.
Manky nails
Fix it: 'Never make the mistake of thinking your other
glossily polished nails will hide the one that's chipped,'
says Barbara. 'Carry the polish with you so you can
touch up if needs be. If this sounds too high
maintenance, ditch the glossies altogether and use a
clear shade.' This season's bright polishes will brighten
up the appearance of the skin on your feet, too, if life's
too short for pumice stones.'
33
34. Overdone or streaky self-tan
Fix it: 'There are products on the market that claim to
remove fake tan disasters but it's a chemical reaction
that turns you brown and, once that's started, there's not
much that can be done,' says Barbara. 'Get yourself into
the shower with a loofah and exfoliate really well will a
creamy body wash to help slough away dead skin cells.
If you're out and about a light-reflecting product will
even out skintone and disguise any major streaks.' For the
face, use a tinted moisturiser to even out colour, but
avoid further cheek colour or bronzer - instead go for
nude eye and lip colour so that it looks as fresh as
possible. Emphasise eyes so the attention is drawn
there. Or you could just don huge shades and wait for
the paparazzi to mistake you for a celeb?.
34
35. The best three wash-off skin tints
Guerlain Teint Doré £15 for 125ml
Every time Guerlain think about discontinuing this
product there is an outcry - which is why it has been
around since the Second World War. There is reason
why: it is a simple water-resistant formula - a liquid tint -
which works extremely well. Kerry (39) was a little
hesitant at first about using it, she thought it looked as if
it would
stain her skin (and clothes) and she would not be able
to get it off if she made a mistake. 'I wasn't sure how to
apply it as it's very runny,' she said. 'But I followed the
instructions and it was easy. Such a nice colour, it
looked like I'd had a weekend in the south of France. I
love it.' Our tip: the best way to apply this product is to
soak a cottonwool ball with it and stroke it lightly over
your face. The science bit: in a class of its own, this skin
tint feels like water and has a high pigment content, so
gives skin some realistic colour even when used
sparingly. Best applied on a cottonwool square and
stroked lightly over your face.
Becca Translucent Bronzing Gel £25 for 50ml
Our testers gave this a high rating for two main reasons:
it blends incredibly well into skin and its pump dispenser
35
36. is practical and easy to use. Emma (34) was new to this
cult make-up brand, developed by Australian make-up
artist Rebecca Morrice-Adams, but was one of the
testers who gave it 10/10: 'The colour is very natural,
first class,' she said. 'It's a bit off-putting initially because
it's very dark, but it soon blends into your skin. I looked
so healthy I didn't bother with any other make-up.' Our
tip: the best way to apply it is to pat it onto your
forehead, cheeks and chin and blend it in with quick,
feathery strokes. The science bit: a really creamy gel
which smoothes over skin like silk but feels cool and
gives very sheer, even results. Best applied by patting it
onto your forehead, chin and cheeks and blending it in
with quick, feathery strokes.
Sex Symbol Aerotan £15.45 for 150ml
A temporary tan in a spray-on can - how easy can it
get? 'Bloody marvellous,' wrote Hannah (31). This tan
did the rounds with our testers and although all were
dubious about trying it, most could not believe how good
it was. It literally provides spray-on colour and can be
used to enhance an existing tan, and give pale skin an
instant colour or deepen darker-toned skin. 'I really
loved this product. It's fun, easy to use and it turned me
a great colour. I used it on my face and body,' says
Jackie (49). Our tip: the best way to apply this product is
to put it into the palms of your hands first, then smooth it
over your face. The science bit: the original 'tan in a
can', this self-tan projects a fine and even spray onto
36
37. skin (it is best applied from the palms of your hands
rather than directly onto your body); it gives skin a
flattering sheen and has the best scent of all self-tans -
yummy coconut!
37
38. Tips for choosing make-up for Asian skin
f you're an Asian woman you'll know all about the
trauma of finding a foundation to suit your skin
colour, but there are a few key issues that should
help to determine your choice
While the shelves seem to be piled high with all manner
of powders and foundations promising even coverage,
light-deflecting pigments, illuminating finishes and more,
the chances of you finding an exact match for your skin
tone are pretty slim. Farah Naz, a British Asian who was
frustrated by the lack of choice decided to launch her
own brand to fill this obvious gap in the market. The
result was EX1, a brand
new and affordable range of foundations and powders
aimed exclusively at Asian women. Here's her advice on
finding the right foundation.
What to look for
Asian women need to look out for foundation that has
yellow undertones. These will enhance the natural
colour of the Asian skin tone. Make-up for black or
Caucasian skin has pink and red undertones, which are
unsuitable for the Asian complexion resulting in a look
that is either too orange or chalky and ghost-like.
38
39. Pitfalls to avoid
Selecting the right colour foundation is about choosing a
shade that is as close to the natural skin tone as
possible. Trying to darken or lighten the skin
I tone with foundation will only result in a mask-like
finish that will leave the skin looking dull.
Where's the best place to test it?
The best place to test foundation is on the jawline. The
skin tone on the hand could differ to that on the face and
it is essential that the make-up blends in well around the
jawline so as not to leave a noticeable line.
Covering an uneven complexion
Generally a medium foundation is best for good
coverage of imperfections, as it will not appear too thick.
In more serious cases where extra coverage is required,
it is best to use a concealer rather than a heavy
foundation. The whole look can then be sealed using a
light dusting of powder.
39
40. Foundation & Powder Q&As
Applying foundation
What’s the easiest way to apply foundation?
The easiest and fastest way is with a sponge. Make up
sponges, available at your local chemist, come in many
shapes. The ‘wedge’, however, is by far the most effective
because its corners make it easier to cover
hard-to-reach places, such as the corners of your eyes
and the creases next to your nose.
Concealer brushes can also help you apply foundation
in small crevices if your sponge is too large. To use a
sponge, dip it in a very small amount of foundation.
Then, press it against your face, rolling it gently over the
area you want to cover. Don’t drag the sponge across
your face, as this can create a streaky effect. Press a
tissue against your face when you're done to even out
your application and lift off any excess foundation.
Another trick of the trade: Make-up artists love using
brushes to apply foundation because they cover big
areas quickly. Synthetic bristle brushes don't absorb the
make-up, which makes it easy to apply evenly, and
synthetic brushes are also easier to clean than the
natural-bristle ones. To use, put a small amount of
foundation on to the brush and apply a thin coat to the
40
41. skin as needed. Make sure you don’t use too much
foundation, or you could be left with a very cakey, mask-
like appearance
41
42. I have Asian skin and I find it really hard to buy the
right colour of foundation. I've tried Prescriptives
custom blend but even that was wrong. I think it
may have something to do with the lighting in
department stores. Is there a fool-proof method of
buying a foundation that is the right colour? I
always think I've cracked it, only to find that I've
bought something too pale or too orangey. Any
advice would be great.
The essential issue for Asian skins is finding a base that
is predominantly yellow based, without being too warm
and orange. The best company at catering for Asian
colouring is Shu Uemura, a Japanese company (and
therefore founded on creating colours for Asian
colouring) that's a favourite with top makeup artists and
is available at Harvey Nichols and Shu Uemura
boutiques (call 020 72407635 for stockist enquiries).
Lighting in department stores can be deceptive, so
always try foundations in daylight before you buy, but
another reason that even 'custom blending' might not
have worked for you could be that foundations are wont
to change colour on the skin according to individuals. It
is therefore essential to both let foundation 'settle' for a
few hours, and to check how it looks in a variety of
different lighting situations.
42
43. And don't throw out all your reject foundations: try
mixing and matching them to your skin yourself (your
face isn't a uniform colour all over - makeup artists
advise matching foundation to a tone that's somewhere
in the middle of the lightest and darkest areas you can
see). Trial and error should lead you to the ideal
shade...until the season's change or you get a tan, and
you have to start all over again, that is!
43
44. Foundation for uneven skin tones
I never know what colour foundation to use because
my face is two slightly different colours. Do you
have any suggestions?
Yes. It is not unusual for people - particularly those with
darker skin - to have an uneven skin tone. In this case,
the skin in the centre of the face is a lighter colour than
the area around the edges of the face and neck.
It's much easier to darken skin tone with foundation than
to lighten it, so avoid using a lighter foundation on your
whole face. This can make darker skin look grey and
unnatural. The lighter colour won't blend into the neck
properly and may create a "mask-like" appearance.
The smartest thing to do if you have an uneven skin tone is to purchase
two different coloured foundations. You can create a "spotlight" effect by
using the lighter one in the centre of your face and the darker one as
a contour around the edges. Another particularly easy option for
everyday is to choose a shade that matches your neck. By using this
foundation on your face and neck, the centre of your face will look
darker and your overall look will be more even.
44
45. Help! I want to hide my tattoo
Do you know of any make-up brands that will cover
up a tattoo?
A cosmetics line called Dermablend is the market
leader in make-up designed to cover everything from
tattoos to scars, birthmarks and spider veins. There are
various consistencies available - from the original
Compact Cover Crème (in 10 shades to match the
palest to the darkest of skins) to the Leg and Body cover
(in 9 shades, this is slightly less thick but will cover
larger areas).
What sets Dermablend cover-up apart from full-
coverage foundations is that its long-lasting, really
opaque coverage formula really 'masks' the skin
imperfection or tattoo. It is vital to match the shade
exactly to your skin - this may well require buying two
shades and mixing them for a customised colour, so be
prepared to spend some time applying the product if you
want the disguise to be really foolproof.
If your aim is to never see that tattoo again (rather than
just occasionally cover it up), I'd strongly suggest laser
removal. While relatively expensive (all cases are
45
46. obviously individual, but most tattoos will take several
treatments) it is the only way to permanently get rid of a
tattoo. The latest Q-switched lasers work by pulsing light
onto the tattoo inks, causing a reaction that breaks them
down into tiny particles that allows the pigments to be
dispersed (and then flushed through your system).
46
47. How can I cover facial eczema?
Can you recommend a good make-up brand for
covering up redness and skin suffering from
eczema? It's on my face, so I really need a very
gentle make-up that works well.
When it comes to covering sensitive skin conditions
such as eczema, less is definitely more. While the
temptation is to slather your face with full-coverage
foundation in a bid to disguise the redness, heavy bases
will only highlight eczema's other characteristic skin
complaints - dryness and uneven texture.
The solution, therefore, isn't to try and conceal, but
rather control, the condition. A skincare regime that
specifically addresses the 'atopic dermatitis' condition is
therefore vital. Dermatologists tend to recommend a
super-simple, straightforward cleanse (with an aqueous
cream) and moisturise (using back-to-basics
moisturisers like E45 or Eucerin) routine, which can be
supplemented with prescribed cortisone creams when
flare-ups occur.
Many skincare companies promise to calm and soothe
sensitive skin, and while they are doubtless effective for
skin that is mildly sensitive (ie some regular-strength
skincare feels too harsh) they are unlikely to really
47
48. address conditions like eczema. However, I have heard
countless rave reviews after recommending the
following products to eczema sufferers: Aromatic
Garden Essence Super Sensitive Skin Cream,
Allergenics Steroid Cream Emollient and
Dermalogica Gentle Soothing Booster, a genius
serum that can be applied alone or added to a cream in
order to really help calm irritation.
Back to your question of make-up, though. Again, think
of trying to control the redness rather than mask it. Head
of make-up artistry for MAC, Terry Barber, explains that
'pale green colour correctors counteract red tones in the
skin, so are great for knocking high colour out of the
face.' He recommends applying a sparing amount of
very light green base control (MAC and Shu Uemura
both make excellent ones) in with your moisturiser, or
applying a thin veil prior to foundation on isolated areas
of redness. The foundation you pick must be entirely
hypoallergenic, non-comodogenic and as pure as
possible. Don't go for anything that offers a host of high-
tech anti-ageing, lifting or oil-controlling benefits if you
have eczema. No frills is best - Almay make some great
ones, not least because the company are so fastidious
about the gentleness of their make-up that they only
ever use ingredients out of their short-listed 500 (despite
the fact that over 10,000 are permitted and available to
them as a cosmetics company)
48
49. Is powder necessary?
I use foundation every day under the rest of my
make-up, but do I also need to use powder?
Not necessarily. Face powders are primarily used to
minimise shininess or excessively oily areas of the skin.
If you have oily skin or find yourself looking 'shiny'
throughout the day, apply powder to the T-zone first (the
area across your forehead and nose), then blend it
outward to other areas of your face with a brush or a
puff. Put on the rest of your make-up, including blusher,
over your powder.
There are two types of powders: loose and pressed.
Loose rpowder has a light, airy consistency and is
preferred by professional make-up artists because it's
less likely to streak on the skin. This type of powder
gives your face a very smooth, matt look and lasts
longer than pressed powders. Pressed powder is
treated under great pressure to create a compact, cake
form. Oils are often added to the formula to ensure that
the powder sticks together longer, but this can make the
product streak on your face. Good luck.
49
50. Lips Features
Beauty Box: Lip balms and lip protectors
Vaseline Lip Therapy, 99p
A bit like beauty lard in a tin, Vaseline is pretty hardcore.
It's intensely greasy, but really sorts out dry and cracked
lips. I always have one of the handy little tins on my
desk at work and in my handbag, and apply a generous
layer several times a day to ward off any hint of dryness.
It's virtually impossible to apply lipstick on top, since it
sits on your lips like an oil slick for at least 15 minutes.
Blistex Herbal Balm, £2.25
I'm a fan of Blistex already, but this is the first time I've
used this particular lip balm and I'm pretty impressed.
Unlike other Blistex balms, this comes in a stick format.
The balm isn't too gloopy or too runny and the herbal
taste - a mixture of aloe, avocado, camomile, shea
butter and jojoba - is quite nice. The blurb claims that
the balm moisturises and soothes and I agree. It also
has an SPF of 15, which is a great added extra. My lips
do feel softer and moisturised, although I have noticed
that I do need more of it as time goes on. I presume my
lips are just getting used to it.
Virgin Vie Lip Defence SPF15 Anti-Oxidant Lip Balm,
£5.50
Hands up - I'm a lip balm addict and have been since
50
51. the age of 13. There are not many balms I haven't tried,
but the Virgin Vie range is virgin territory for me.
Described as being 'perfect for combating dryness', it
sounds perfect for my winter-worn lips. The balm is
sleekly packaged in a posh lipstick case, but
unfortunately after a few applications, the stick started
wobbling around and looked a bit fragile. Otherwise, the
balm is good, though a bit sticky. It has a plain taste,
gives your lips a lovely glow and most importantly does
seem to nourish and replenish them.
Clinique, Superbalm Lip Treatment, £8.50
I've always suffered from dry, flaky lips, and am a
seasoned lip balm wearer. This pinkish balm was thicker
in texture than most other balms I've tried and slightly
stickier, although not so sticky as to be off-putting. A
small amount of it went a very long way - a tiny dab was
enough to cover my whole lips and unlike some of the
cheaper brands I've tried, it stayed put on my lips for
longer rather than migrating around my mouth. My lips
felt pleasantly tingly for a while after I put it on and also
significantly more hydrated. I wouldn't recommend it for
application under lipstick as it's a bit too thick, but it's a
great nourishing treatment for slicking onto your lips
before bed.
51
52. Lancôme, primordiale lèvres, £20
This is less of a lip balm and more of a lip treatment.
The cream comes in a tiny pump dispenser in
Lancôme's signature classy packaging. Touted as a
'plumping balm', this isn't the easiest product to apply on
the go as you can't put it directly on your lips and have
to use your fingers. But it feels satiny-smooth and non-
greasy. It gave long-lasting moisture to my winter-dry
lips and my lipstick didn't slide off when applied on top
of the cream. As for delivering younger and plumper-
looking lips - this isn't a replacement for collagen
implants if you're looking for a Jagger-pout. But I
definitely enjoyed using this more than the cheaper
balms and my lips feel as if they've been treated to
some posh tlc.
Caboodles Flower Power lip balm in cherry, £2.79 from
Superdrug
Caboodles Flower Power Cherry lip balm fulfills every
girl's dream of lip gloss. It's light pink. It smells sweet. It
comes in a clear plastic pot shaped like a flower. If you
love wearing sandals and live for nail polish, this is the
finishing touch. But while your fashion sense may be
satisfied, your chapped lips may not. A fingertip of the
stuff goes on smoothly, but after about half an hour it
starts to feel gritty. It even made my sensitive lips peel.
Still, at just £2.79, it's a lot cuter than pulling your
average lip balm pot out of your bag. Who knows?
Flower Power might just grow on you.
52
53. Lypsyl lip balm in Strawberry, £1.20
I'm not really a great lip balm wearer - not because I
have luscious soft lips but because I just forget to put it
on. The great thing about Lypsyl's strawberry stick is
that it smells and tastes great - in a kids' sweets kind of
way - and this is enough to keep me putting it on! The
one down side is that it doesn't seem to stay on my lips
long, although this could be down to me licking it off too
regularly! Not what you'd call a glamorous, luxury item.
But you can't beat it for a nostalgic trip down memory
lane back to childhood.
iVillage verdict: Best tasting
Simple Sun Lip Protector Factor 25, £3.75
A beauty editor once told me that lip balms are a great
base for lipstick and I've been using them ever since. I
loved the translucent look and feel of this product and
within days my lips - which are notoriously sensitive -
felt so much better, softer and more moist. I've
discarded lots of lip balms in the past because of their
greasy, 'globby' quality. Thankfully, there were no such
problems with this product. Definitely the least greasy
product I've ever used. The sun was in hiding on the
day I tried it, so I can't speak about its sun protection
qualities. But I'd definitely try it out in the summer.
Generally, I just loved the way it felt.
53
54. Dry, flaky lips
Flaky lips are painful and unattractive. Here's how to get
back that perfect pout.
Apply your favorite lip balm and rub lips together. Using
a dry toothbrush, brush lips gently in circular motions
until the flakes have dislodged. Wipe lips clean and rub
in more lip balm. Repeat daily and skip the lipstick until
your pout returns to normal. If you really can't live
without a little colour on your lips, try using a tinted lip
balm.
54
55. Lip service
Has your pucker lost its power? Try these lip
rejuvenating products – they’re the perfect therapy for
chapped, weather-weary lips
Around 92 per cent of women use lipstick each day, but
the truth is we’re still more likely to apply an eyecream
at night than to reach for a specialist lip product.
However, there comes a time when this much-
overlooked area needs special attention, especially in
winter. Thankfully, there are now hundreds of products
that allow us to lavish love and attention on our mouths.
The best way to kiss dry, chapped lips goodbye is with a
little gentle exfoliation and moisturising. Make-up artists
tackle models’ dry lips by rubbing them gently with a
toothbrush topped with a lip cream. Then they sweep on
lashings of Elizabeth Arden’s Eight Hour Cream (£17),
and leave it to soak in for 15 minutes or more while they
apply the rest of the make-up.
For a relaxing, at-home boost to your lips, beauty expert
Josephine Fairley suggests mashing a quarter of a ripe
papaya until it makes a juicy paste. Then, lie down on a
towel and apply a generous amount to the lips and the
skin around the lips. Leave it on for 10 to 15 minutes,
rinse it off and apply lip balm. Papaya contains
55
56. exfoliating enzymes and can help to soften and refine lip
lines.
If your lips are prone to dryness and cracking, check out
a daily maintenance product like Blistex Revitaliser,
which has been shown in trials to reduce the
appearance of fine lines and wrinkles on the surface of
the lips in one month. Available at most chemists, it
contains AHAs (skin-exfoliating alpha-hydroxy-acids),
moisturisers, vitamins A and E and an SPF 15.
Lips are one of the most exposed areas of skin, yet they
have an extremely thin outer layer and few sebaceous
glands. Centrally heated offices (which can be
particularly dry) and whipping winter winds both take
their toll. If you are going skiing or to hotter climes,
remember that lips contain no melanin and can quickly
become badly burnt without protection.
Here are some of our favourite tips and lip-saving
products:
For an ultra-moisturising lip experience, look out
for Liz Earle’s Naturally Active Superbalm
(£12.50) or Superbalm Concentrate (£16.50),
which contains plant oils such as avocado,
rosehip and lavender (call 01983 813 914 for
stockists and mail order). Liz doesn’t use any
petroleum-based ingredients in her products,
unlike many other lip formulations.
56
57. If you’re on a budget, try Nivea Lip Repair (£1.95).
At this price, we suggest keeping one in your
pocket, one on your desk and one by your bed.
We also like Nivea Lip Care in Strawberry or
Cherry (£1.39). Available at most chemists.
Beauty therapist Eve Lom has created Kiss Mix
(£9.50), which works mini miracles on tender,
chapped lips. (Available at Space NK, or call 0870
169 9999 for mail order).
Check that your lipsticks contain condition-
enhancing ingredients, especially if you use long-
lasting lipsticks, which tend to dry out lips. Clarins
Le Rouge lipsticks (£13), are packed with lip-
softening shea butter, wheatgerm oil, natural
waxes and protective vitamin E.
57
58. Lipstick tips
Nine tips to help you get the best from your lippy
1. Store lipstick - and perfume - in the refrigerator.
It'll last longer.
2. Never use a tester on your lips - it's unhygienic.
Test lipstick on your fingertips instead of the back of
your hand - the colour and texture are closer to
that of your lips.
3. If you want your lipstick to last, use pencil first as
a base. Outline and colour in your lips with pencil
(nude, if your lipstick shade is light) and slick your
lipstick on top.
4. Your lips will also look softer, 'smudgier,' and less
defined if you don't use pencils or lip liners.
5. To
6. avoid lipstick on your teeth, after application, run
your index finger through the middle of your lips
and pull it back out. The excess will come off on
your finger, not your teeth.
7. In an emergency make-up situation, your lipstick
can double as blusher. (But never use blusher on
your lips.)
8. Outline your lips in pencil before you apply lipstick
or gloss if you don't want your lipstick to feather.
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59. 9. Women over 50 usually look better with a cream
lipstick rather than a matte or gloss. Every bit of
moisture helps.
If your lipstick shade turns out to be brighter than you
thought it would be, colour in your lips with a pencil a
few shades darker than your lipstick (for instance, brown
pencil under dark red lipstick) and layer the lipstick on
top. Or coat the lipstick with a darker lip gloss, which will
turn down the heat.
59
60. Making the most of your make-up: lipsticks
Sidra Shaukat, author of Natural Beauty, explains how
to create new colours from your existing lipsticks
If you are bored with your existing lipsticks, or cannot
afford to buy new shades, fear not. You can use your
existing lipsticks to create literally hundreds of
combinations of new and exciting colours. All you need
is the back of your hand (for blending), a lip brush, and
your existing lipsticks. It is best to have a varied colour
spectrum, including reds, pinks, oranges, browns, gold,
violets and blue-reds.
If you do not have some lipsticks from the basic ranges,
you may want to ask friends if they have some spare
lipsticks that they are not using. The wider the initial
range of colours you use, the more shades you will be
able to create. Simply blend the colours onto the back of
your hand with a lip brush, taking some lipstick from
each of your chosen shades, and apply the 'new' shade
directly to your lips. You may want to experiment with
three or four combinations before you decide on one to
try on your lips.
60
61. You can also co-ordinate lipsticks with your clothes; for
example, if a blouse is salmon pink, blend brown with a
pink lipstick. If a dress has a special shade of red in it,
you can highlight it by creating the exact shade of red
lipstick!
61
62. Making your lips look thinner
John Nelson of Shu Uemura gives us a master class in
making lips appear thinner
Shu Uemura's resident makeup artist John Nelson
knows the value of good beauty brushes and tools, and
uses only the best to make up women's faces - from
Geoffrey Beene fashion models to women from all walks
of life. Working from the Shu Uemura boutique in New
York City's Soho, he dispenses all kinds of beauty tips
and secrets as he plies his trade using the Shu Uemura
line of products. Here John helps show you how to
make your lips appear thinner.
STEP 1 The goal, says John, is to neutralise the lips by
toning them down. Skip the lip liner, he advises (it
accentuates the lips) and use a neutral lipstick so the
colour is not too intense.
STEP 2 Apply foundation or powder to clean lips (so the
lipstick can adhere better).
STEP 3 Apply lipstick with a lip brush to the entire lip
area, staying within your natural lip lines. Do not use lip
gloss since it reflects light and makes the lips appear
larger. Use matte and creme formulas which are flat and
do not reflect light.
62
63. Selecting the right lip colour
Not all shades of lipstick suit everyone. Different shades
look different on different skin tones
Your lips are the one area of your face where you can
really play with colour. The best way to find the right
shade for you is to try it on. But here are a few
guidelines to help you make a choice:
If you have dark skin you have the greatest
flexibility: Plums, chocolates, reds, pastels and
oranges all work with your skin. (Generally, the
deeper your skin tone, the deeper the shade of
lipstick you can wear and look beautiful.)
If you have a medium skin tone with golden
undertones, all
shades of red are for you. Brown-based mauve,
sheer berry or spicy brown will also look great.
If you have pale skin, stick to nudes, beige tones, light
corals and light pinks. Sheer formulations will probably
be most flattering on you.
63
64. Using lip pencils
Four reasons to have a lip pencil in your make-up bag
Lip pencils are indispensable to any makeup artist
because they can be used to:
Boost your lip colour
Apply lip liner that matches your lipstick all over lips
before adding lipstick.
Keep lipstick from bleeding
Apply lip liner matching your lipstick along the edges of
your lips before putting on lipstick.
Create a fuller mouth
Apply lip liner to the outside line of your lips. Follow with
lipstick.
Make your lips appear smaller
Apply foundation over the edges of your lips and
carefully draw lip shape with a liner just inside your lip
line. Follow with lipstick.
64
66. How do I stop lipstick 'bleeding'?
If your lipstick tends to travel outside your lip line, avoid
creamy or glossy lipstick textures; matte lipsticks usually
stay in place longer. If you have a little extra time, layer
your lip products: first apply a sheer wash of foundation
on your lips. Next, line lips with a pencil that matches
your lipstick. Fill in with lipstick using a brush for precise
application. Blot, then brush translucent powder lightly
over lips to set the colour.
66
67. Eyes & Eyebrows Features
Applying false eyelashes
False eyelashes give you an instantly glamorous
look - and they're easier to apply than you'd imagine
There are two types of false eyelashes: full lashes,
which add density to the entire lash line, and individual
lashes, which can be used to fill in sparse areas or
dramatically open up the eye area. Full lashes are
easier to apply and don't look as natural, but individual
lashes require a steadier hand and a bit more practice.
Whichever style you choose, follow these tips to make
your lashes look as natural as possible:
Before you apply the lashes, line your upper lash
line with a
mahogany eyeliner and smudge it slightly to
create a smoky effect. This will help to conceal the
lashband.
Apply the glue to your finger, lightly pull the
lashband through it, and wait a moment. With
individual lashes, dip the end of the lash in the
glue.
Apply the false lashes as close to your natural
lash line as possible; press the lash down for a
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68. few seconds on the outside of the eye. With
individual lashes, apply them to the outside
corners of the eye and work your way toward your
nose. For the most natural look, all you need is a
few individual lashes per eye.
After you've applied the false lashes, curl them
along with your real lashes and apply mascara.
It's best to reserve this look for special occasions; long-
term use can lead to eye irritation from the glue, and even
infections.
68
69. Beauty box: 10 waterproof mascaras put to the test
The eyes have it – except when they’re smudged and
have that black-around-the-eye raccoon look. And, of
course, winter’s the time when your otherwise perfect
mascara smudges and runs in the rain and wind,
leaving you feeling slightly less than sexy. iVillage staff
took several of the most popular brands of waterproof
mascara and tested them to see which best withstood
the rigours of the season. Here’s what we discovered.
1. Boots’ No. 17 Waterproof Mascara,
brown/black – £3.99. This colour was a bit too
light for me, as I’m used to
2. buying black mascara. It was also quite thin, so
when I blinked soon after applying, it came off on
my cheek. It also didn’t thicken up my lashes as
much as I usually like. However, the mascara
came off easily – a real plus, as most waterproof
ones are difficult to remove.
3. Bobbi Brown Essentials Waterproof Mascara,
brown – £12.50. ‘Lush but smudgy’ sums up this
product. I didn’t like the shape of the applicator
because it didn’t allow for enough definition,
although the colour was a nice subtle brown –
perfect for daytime and with matt eyeshadow.
Although it stayed on forever, it smeared a lot.
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70. While high-maintenance, it was great looking and
made my lashes look thick and sexy. I liked this
product, but it’s too hard to use when rushing to
get ready in the morning. It might be better for
night when you have more time to prepare and
want to feel a little more made up.
4. Body Shop Colourings, aubergine – £4.50. The
wand and brush were mini-sized, so it was difficult to
apply (I thought it might be mascara for children
to be honest). I loved the colour – a very soft
plum, nice for daytime. It didn’t clump or smudge,
probably because it didn’t go on thick. It stayed on
all day once I put on about three coats and it
made my lashes look so subtle that I forgot I was
wearing it. I liked this product a lot, but you do
have to apply several coats. Once it’s on, though,
it’s comfortable and pretty and it doesn’t flake or get
in your eyes.
5. Clinique Gentle Waterproof Mascara Long-
Wear Lash Intensifier, black – £11.50. Fairly
easy to apply, although it seemed quite dry and I
had to put on two coats to see a difference. It
didn’t clump or smear and stayed on all day. I
liked how it made my lashes look, although the
difference was subtle rather than dramatic, which
was a little disappointing.
6. Christian Dior Aqua Dior Waterproof Mascara,
black – £14.50. The actual mascara was quite
smooth so it went on easily. It only made me look
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71. raccoon-like when I rubbed my eyes. This
mascara has conditioner in it, which is probably
better for my lashes because I wear mascara
everyday. And, as I swim regularly, it means I can
keep it on without looking a state. I like the fact
that you can control how dramatic it looks without
it going on in clumps. The only thing I didn’t like is
that it never really dries out so it can smear a bit.
7. Lancôme Extencils Waterproof Mascara, black
– £15.00. I liked this product very much. It didn’t
smudge, had a nice dense colour, and didn’t
clump so it looked really natural but lush. It came
off easily and completely and didn’t smear onto
my pillow – I’ll buy this when my sample runs out.
8. L’Oréal Longitude Lengthening and Separating
Waterproof Mascara, black – £6.99. This
product is great if you’re looking to add a little
extra fullness to your lashes. It went on easily,
didn’t clump or smear and I had no problem
removing it. It’s meant to be waterproof, but I
never went swimming in it, so I’m not sure it was.
Some mascaras try to make their brand more
appealing by producing a very elaborate
applicator, but this wand was simple and still did
the trick. I will continue to use it.
9. Max Factor Lashfinity Waterproof Mascara,
black/brown – £8.00. I liked this product, but I’m
not sure it would be good for women with sensitive
eyes as it stung a bit on application. I think a black
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72. colour would have suited me more, but for a
natural look with good staying power this is an
excellent choice. It didn’t clump or smudge, but I
would have liked it more if it was a bit thicker. It
stayed on all day, and I naughtily slept in it and it
was still there in the morning. It didn’t do that
much to my lashes – it made them quite long, but I
prefer a fuller look.
10. Maybelline Full ’n’ Soft Waterproof
Mascara, black – £5.99. The applicator’s
thickness made it a little difficult to apply to my
lower lashes, although it didn’t run or smudge at
all – even after a night in a very hot, cheesy club. I
did like this product and it had real staying power,
my only reservation was the thickness of the
brush.
11. Boots’ No. 7 Waterproof Mascara, brown
– £6.30. This mascara went on neatly and had a
nice finish to it. I liked the colour a lot, as my eyes
are dark brown. It didn’t clump or smear and it
made my lashes look much thicker and longer,
plus it made my eyes stand out which was nice. I
liked this product because it was easy to apply,
the shape of the applicator appealed to me and
the colour was great. I would definitely use it
again.
72
73. Beauty box:
The eyes have it
The smoky look is back. Ubiquitous at many recent
catwalk shows and everywhere on the high street, this
season make-up companies are offering eye pencils –
the essential tool for creating this sexy and dramatic
effect – in perfectly smouldering shades. Don’t get too
heavy-handed when applying, though, or you’ll look
more raccoon than sex goddess. But which colour to
choose? While more unusual hues include browns,
plums, berries and olives, iVillage staffers test-drove
several of the popular classic black, grey and deep blue
liners for a truly eye-opening
experience.
1. Clinique Quick Eyes, black – £11. This product
has an eye pencil on one end and eye powder on
the other. The pencil was thin, but too cloying to
sharpen. It pulled my upper lid when I put it on,
which was rather unpleasant, and when applied it
was barely noticeable. Applied more forcefully, the
look was alarmingly ‘Cleopatra at the disco’. I also
had to smudge the liner, otherwise it looked like I
had outlined my eyes with a crayola-style crayon.
When thickly applied, this product made my eyes
look bombed out. I wouldn’t buy this product
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74. because it was tough to put on, and was either
hardly noticeable or extremely scary looking.
2. Elizabeth Arden Smoky Eyes Powder Pencil,
gunmetal – £11.95. This thin pencil stayed on like
a cream but had the soft look of a powder pencil.
It was long-wearing and easy to apply. I also quite
liked the smudger tip as it helped create a smoky
look, which made me feel sexy. This product didn’t
irritate my eyes, and it’s opthalmologist-tested and
fragrance-free. At the end of the night it came off
quite easily with eye make-up remover. I’d
definitely buy this product in the future.
3. Estée Lauder Eye Defining Pencil, black – £10.
This pencil was a perfect size – not too thick, not
too thin – and it had the best texture of any pencil
I’ve ever used. I didn’t have to press too hard
when putting it on, which was nice. I applied it
twice to get real definition, but you only need one
swash and you’re done. I also have very sensitive
eyes and was quite surprised that it didn’t irritate
them. I’d consider purchasing this product in the
future as it was easy to use, had nice definition
and was good for both day and night.
4. Superdrug Kolor Eyeliner, slate – £1.99. This
pencil felt a bit odd to me because I usually use
liquid liner. It was, however, easy to apply and
went on smoothly. I was able to achieve the
smoky look I wanted, but during the day the liner
began to smudge and look messy. I’d buy this
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75. product if I wasn’t wearing make-up and suddenly
needed to attend an important unexpected
meeting. But, I wouldn’t buy it otherwise because
it didn’t last all day or overly impress me.
5. Boots’ Liz Collinge Eyepencil, midnight – £4.
This thin pencil was extremely dry and scratchy.
Even when I tried to blunt the end a bit, I felt like I
was applying chalk to my eyelid. It didn’t come off
very well and it pulled at the skin on my lid. I didn’t
reapply, as it was so hard to get a clean line in the
first place. The product was a good size, with
classy silver packaging, however, it created little
to no effect on my eyes. I was unable to get a
smudge of colour even when trying to soften the
pencil, and the colour and texture were both
disappointing.
6. Maybelline Duets Liner/Shadow, sea and sky –
£4.99. This pencil had a fine point for definition
and a thicker one for highlighting. I liked the
chunky pencil because it was easy to apply (I also
love two-in-ones). The pencil was soft and
smooth, and it didn’t drag my skin the way other
pencils have in the past. The highlighter was quite
powdery, which was good for a matt finish but
required a few strokes to get a definite colour. The
highlighter smudged and blended well, and it gave
my eyes a very funky ‘disco’ look. I will definitely
buy this liner when my current one runs out.
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76. 7. Origins Kohl Mine – £5.50. This chubby, short
pencil reminded me of a crayon and it went on
very smoothly. It was easy to blend and smudge
so I was able to get the effect I wanted. The
product didn’t irritate my eyes and it had good
staying power. I loved the way it made my eyes
look – very sultry and smoky. I’d buy it again, as it
was very easy to use, was small and easily
portable. Also, the sharpening technique didn’t
require a pencil sharpener – just a bit of sharp
paper, which was provided in the box – very
clever.
76
77. Finding your brow shape
A professional-looking eyebrow shape will transform
your face - find out how to do it yourself
Create the line: to determine exactly where your brow
should begin, hold a make-up brush or a pencil straight up
and down against one nostril. Where the pencil lands by
your brow is where it should begin. The brow should
end a little past your eye (if it grows down too far it will
drag your eyes down). If you have a natural arch, work
with it. If you need to create one, look into your eyes.
The arch of your eyebrow should fall directly above the
outside of your iris. Using an eyebrow pencil, fill in the
brow area that you want to preserve so you can pluck
outside the edges.
Pluck: begin plucking from underneath the brow,
removing one hair at a time from the inside of the brow
to the outside. If part of your brow is thin enough
already, do not pluck that area. Pull hairs in the direction
in which they grow.
Brush and trim: using a small brush, brush your brows
upwards. If they are too long, trim them very
conservatively, cutting only a tiny amount at a time.
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78. Fill in: once your brows are well shaped, you can use a
variety of products to enhance them or fill them in as
needed, using brow fixers, tinted brow gels, brow
powders or brow pencils.
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79. Good grooming for eyebrows
Whether you spend four or 40 minutes on your make-
up, well-groomed brows are the difference between
looking OK and looking fabulous
A well-shaped brow can lift and open your eyes, making
you look younger, more sophisticated and more rested.
If your brows are truly unruly, splurge and get them
done by a professional, then be diligent about removing
new growth to maintain the shape.
Essential tools
A large mirror near a window (natural light will
allow you to see each brow hair clearly)
A good pair of tweezers (Tweeze man are our
personal fave)
Grooming scissors
A small brush (either a baby toothbrush or an old
mascara wand that's been cleaned will do)
Grooming tips
To reshape your brows yourself you'll need about
40 minutes. Don't rush. Once you pluck a hair, it
takes a long time to grow back.
Remember, less is more. You can always go back
and pluck again.
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80. Before you pluck, determine what your best shape
is. In many cases, nature has already given you
an arch that will become more obvious when you
remove hairs along the bottom of the brow.
Don't try to copy someone else's brow - work with
what you have.
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81. Latest trends: Eyelash extensions
Forget nail art, and eyebrow threading. Having eyelash
extensions is the latest craze to take the beauty world by
storm. Celebrity converts include Victoria Beckham.
Plucky journalist Jennifer Howze gave them a road-test
Before... ...and after
Tears are pouring out of my eyes and an unbearably
bright light makes me squirm, even with my eyes
closed. Karen Betts is coming toward me with a pair of
sharp tweezers -- I can hear the tinging of the pincers as
they pinch together. They say it's not easy being pretty
and it's true. I'm weeping and
flinching under interrogation-level amps for the privilege of
having long lush lashes
Imported from the US, 3d Lashes are purported to look
more natural and wear more comfortably than the spiky
versions that have come before. Unlike the DIY kinds
that you apply in strips or clumps, these are individual
lashes, attached to your existing lashes one by one and
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82. made of a synthetic material so light they don't weigh
lids down. They supposedly last three months, although
Betts, who trains aestheticians in applying the lashes,
estimates two months is more realistic. Even so, the
possibility of having eight entire weeks of forgoing
mascara, looking alluring at dawn's first light and having
fluttery feminine lashes a la screen goddesses of old is
incredibly tempting.
I do have apprehensions, but Betts puts these to rest.
Can I wear my contact lenses with these extensions?
(Yes.) Will my longer lashes hit the lenses of my
glasses? (No.) Could I possibly have an allergic reaction
to the adhesive? (It doesn't touch the skin, as the lashes
are glued to your own rather than the lid.) Would I look
like a spider-eyed goth freak? (Er, no, although I did
have the option of different lengths up to 14mm and
colours, including Velvet Purple and Mountain Green.)
So I stretch out on a table and put myself under her power.
Betts sits at my head, tapes down my lower lids and over
the next hour and a half painstakingly applies lash by lash
in standard black. My sensitive eyes water, my closed lids
flutter and from time to time I can feel her picking at my
lashes in search of the "youngest",
shortest one to attach the falsies to, so they will last as
long as possible. Despite all this, the procedure is
entirely painless. I doze off a couple of times. Finally
she says, 'Ok, all finished,' and I sit up to gaze at long
Bambi lashes, inky, thick and natural looking. I flutter my
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83. lashes. The gamine girl in the mirror flutters hers back.
My eyes have graduated to femme fatale status.
Of course, a girl's gotta put some effort into looking this
good. That means no getting the lashes wet for the first
two hours ("Yours may not last as long," says Betts,
"because they were wet the entire time."). No using
waterproof mascara or oily make-up removers, no
curling your lashes, no rubbing your eyes, no steaming
your face - the list goes on. Upon first reading, the list
seemed onerous, but hewing to it was easy. I found I
didn't even need mascara to emphasise my eyes. I
began washing my face with a washcloth. I adapted my
routine to accommodate the glamorous visitors on my
lids and as a result they've been looking beautiful ever
since. Six days after the first application one of the
lashes did come out, as I was removing eyeliner -- it
looked like a thick spider's leg. I placed it carefully on
the edge of the shelf. I ponder getting a touch-up - Betts
recommends having them every two to three weeks to
keep the extensions looking full.
And the best thing about these lashes: while I notice the
effect immediately, it's days before anyone else remarks
on them. 'They look so natural,' purrs one friend,
studying me intently. 'I didn't even notice!' cries another
who's a critic of obvious beauty enhancers, before
asking me where I got them done. It's brought a hopeful
image to mind, of Betts, tweezers in hand, coming
toward me under a bright white light.
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85. Quick fixes for beauty blunders
A tide mark the Thames Estuary would be proud of?
Cheekbones that look more like go-faster stripes
than rose blooms? Barbara Daly, make-up artist to
the late Princess of Wales and top beauty
consultant, has some tips on correcting the most
common beauty disasters
Cakey or too-dark foundation
Spider-legs mascara
Creased eyeshadow
Overplucked eyebrows
Go-faster blusher
Squeezing the bejesus out of a spot
Manky nails
Overdone or streaky self-tan
Cakey or too-dark foundation
Fix it: 'Remove rather than add colour,'
advises Barbara Daly. 'If colour is unevenly blended,
don't add more and attempt to rub in - remove with a
tissue, working from the jaw and hairline outwards with
a sweeping motion. You'd naturally have more colour in
your cheeks anyway, and you don't want to be blending
down into your collar. Don't worry about the area around
85