Michelle's Nov 2011 Caltech Alpine Club talk on the Evolution Traverse.

1. Adventures in Evolution
First female ascent of the Evolution Traverse

2. The Mystique
 How we got spanked on Evolution Traverse (Shay of
pullharder.org, 2007)
 “16 hours car-to-car; 22 miles; peaks reached: 0/9”
(Warren C and Dave J, 2009)
 “Cycling through 3 partners over 3 attempts…” (Ryan
H in reference to Josh G, 2011)
 “The best traverse I have done.” (Peter Croft in The
Good, The Great and the Awesome; FA on attempt #3)
 17 documented successful ascents prior to my 2011
attempt (all by men)

3. The Route
• 5.9, VI
• 10 mile approach over
Lamark Col (3,600 ft of
gain and 1,600 ft of
descent)
• 8 mile ridge traverse
over nine 13K ft peaks
• ~16 mile hike out

4. The Route
• 5.9, VI
Thunderbolt to Sill
• 10 mile approach over (5.9, IV)
Lamark Col (3,600 ft of
• 10 mile approach
gain and 1,600 ft of with 5,200 ft of gain
descent) (Glacier Lodge
• 8 mile ridge traverse start/end)
over nine 13K ft peaks • ~1.6 mile ridge
traverse over five 14K
• ~16 mile hike out
ft peaks
• ~9 mile hike out

5. My Background
 Climbing
 Been climbing on/off since the mid-90s
 Since ~2006 increased focus on trad/alpine climbing
 Comfortable leading 5.10 trad
 Enjoy exposure, soloing, and mega days
 Work
 Have a full-time job at a local search company in
Glendale, but fortunate to work remotely

6. The Prep
 First (half-assed) attempt in Sep 2010
 Base camp support from Jascha
 Bailed before the Mendel summit due to (chronic) hip
flexor issues
 Major focus on the Aug 2011 attempt
 Made the decision to do the traverse alone and
unsupported
 Ton of climbing (trad, sport, bouldering, alpine soloing)
with a focus on alpine speed and endurance
 Planning & logistics (balancing weight and comfort/safety)
 PT

7. The Prep
 Surprisingly early start to
the alpine season given
the winter’s record
snowfall
N Ridge of Lone Pine Peak (5.5), 30 May

8. The Prep
 Spent much time on Temple Crag
to avoid sloggy conditions
Moon Goddess Arete (5.8)

9. The Prep
Sun Ribbon (5.10a) | Galey | Sill traverse

10. The Prep
 Last minute Evolution
crux recon and bivy
gear stash 1.5 weeks
prior

11. The Approach
Darwin and Mendel from Lamark Col

12. The Approach
Darwin Canyon 2010 Darwin Canyon 2011

13. The Approach Darwin Canyon
Darwin
Benches
Base camp at Darwin Benches

14. The Climb
Darwin Canyon
Darwin
Benches
13,360 from Darwin Benches

15. The Climb
Looking into Evolution Basin from
the ridgeline on 13,360
Darwin Canyon
Darwin
Benches

16. The Climb
Self portrait en route to 13,360
Darwin Canyon
Darwin
Benches

17. The Climb
headwall
Mendel from the 13,360 summit (5.6)

18. The Climb
Ridge traverse to Mendel

19. The Climb
Mendel headwall (~25 ft, not 5.9)

20. The Climb
Darwin from Mendel

21. The Climb
Picket fence to Darwin (5.8)

22. The Climb
Darwin summit block

23. The Climb
Chimney section off the Darwin summit (5.9)

24. The Climb
More down-climbing off the Darwin summit

25. The Climb
Traverse to 13,332 (5.9)

26. The Climb
Golden slab (photo from recon)

27. The Climb
Bivy #1 with the evening’s
entertainment, This American Life

28. The Climb
13,332 summit

29. The Climb
Haeckel from 13,332 (class 3)

30. The Climb
Wallace from just below the Haeckel
summit (aka the spot where Emma
saved my ass with an apple).

31. The Climb
Huxley, the final obstacle (~5.7)

32. The Climb
The last summit!

33. The Descent
Hike back on the JMT
through Evolution Basin

34. The Descent Darwin Canyon
Darwin
Benches
First real food in 2.5 days

35. Summary
• ~22.5 hours of climbing
over 2.1 days

36. Tips
 Go as light as you can taking into consideration your limits and
conditions.
 Be efficient at route-finding, moving quickly unroped over 4th and
easy 5th class terrain, and rope/gear management if you plan to
use them.
 Consider your water options (snow melt versus dropping down
500’ to Haeckel Col).
 Acclimate. A full day at the Darwin Benches helps significantly
especially if you are a flatlander.
 Note to self: Have your food plan perfected and make sure your
camera is fully functional.
 Have fun. It’s an amazing climb no matter how far you get.

37. What’s Next?
I don’t know where I’m going from here, but I
promise it won’t be boring.
- David Bowie

38. What’s Next?
I don’t know where I’m going from here, but I
promise it won’t be boring.
- David Bowie

39. Questions | Beta
 user name fossana
on summitpost and
mountainproject

40. Gear List
 80’ of 7mm Mammut Pro Cord – did 1 pack haul, 1 pack lower and 1 rap
 3 nuts (sm, med, lg) – didn’t use
 ATC guide / locker
 Camp XLH 95 harness
 40’ 9/16” tubular webbing – way too much
 Lightest pair of climbing shoes I could find at the Gear Exchange
 Western Mountaineering VersaLite (10 degree bag)
 2L MSR Dromedary bag (for melting snow) + 100 oz hydration bladder
 Black Diamond Speed 40 pack
 Montrail CTC approach shoes
 Camp Corsa ice axe (left this at Lamark Col on the hike in)
 Cheap closed cell foam pad cut down to ½ length and minimal width*
 Rab Storm Bivi* * Cached on recon

41. More Eye Candy | TRs
 Josh Garrison’s video covering 3 attempts:
http://vimeo.com/15555114
 Patituccis’ blog:
http://dolomitesport.com/2009/12/climbing-the-
sierra-nevadas-evolution-traverse/
 Alan Cattabriga’s TR: http://neice.com/2010/09/the-
evolution-traverse/
 My TR: http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Evolution-
Traverse-How-I-Owe-it-All-to-an-
Apple/t11143n.html

42. Many Thanks To
the following people for beta, encouragement, company on
recons/training climbs, and tolerating my obsessive
ramblings:
Alan C, Vic L, Peter C, Mike C, Ben H, Jason L, Ian C-B, Tricia L, Matt S,
Tai D, Em H, Todd T, Joe L, Lisa R, Wills Y, Jascha L, Joan P, Miguel F,
Sandra S, Janel C, Jessie M, Yoshiko and Jim M, Nathan W, Laura M
and especially Emma