Comparisons of Spinning Systems

1. Spinning Systems Learning the differences

2. What is spinning? The act or processing of converting staple or short lengths of fiber into continuous yarns. Dictionary.com

4. Compact

5. Open End

7. Roving Yarn count ranges: 6’s to 250’s Fibers: (1) Long (2) Fine (3) Strong Ring Spinning

8. Yarn count range: 6’s to 250+ Fibers: (1) Long (2) Fine (3) Strong Roving air Perforated Drum Compact Spinning

9. Yarn Structure Compact Ring Spun - Siro Ring Spun

10. Ringspun yarn SwissCotton Royal Conventional Ring Spun Versus Siro

12. Less surface hairiness, clear mesh structure

13. Excellent evenness of knit fabrics

14. Less fiber accumulations knitted into the fabric

15. Luster

16. Great alternative to plied yarns

17. Less energy

18. Softer than plied yarns

20. Open End - Schlafhorst

21. Open End - Rieter

22. Typical yarn count range: 6’s to 30’s Fibers: (1) Fine (2) Strong (length is not as important as ring spinning) Rotor Yarn Package Feed Roll Sliver Condenser Transport Air Channel V df , M f Sliver Combing Roll Feed Plate Trash Open End Rotor Spinning

23. Typical yarn count range: 20’s to 60’s Fibers: (1) Long (2) Strong (length is not as important as ring spinning) Main Draft Back Roller b Middle Roller Apron Pressure H Front Roller k N1 N2 Spinning Tension Wrapping Fibers Parallel Fibers Core of Murata Air Jet Spinning

24. Open End Spinning

25. Murata Vortex

26. Rieter Air Jet Still very new in the market…

27. Roving Spinning Efficiency and Endsdown: Key Fiber Properties by the order of importance: Main Draft Rotor Yarn Package Back Roller b Middle Roller Apron Pressure H Front Roller Feed Roll k N1 Sliver Condenser Transport Air Channel V df N2 Spinning Tension , M f Fibers Wrapping Sliver Short Fiber length Trash content Roving twist level Trash content Short Fiber content Sliver Uniformity Trash content Short Fiber Content Sliver Uniformity Combing Roll Parallel Fibers Core of Feed Plate Trash Fiber Quality Impact

28. Energy Comparison

29. Different Yarn Counts = Different Quality Levels Do all yarns within the same spinning system require the same type and quality of fibers?

30. FQI Upland Cotton ELS Cotton Min 3.0 10.0 Max 10.0 15.0 FL = HVI Fiber Length (inch) FS = HVI Fiber Strength (g/tex) Mic = Micronaire Fiber Quality Index (FQI)

31. Different Yarn Counts Require Different Fiber Indexes

32. Fiber Quality Index vs. Yarn Count-Ring Spun & Rotor Spun Carded Yarns

33. Fiber Quality Index VS Yarn Count-Ring Spun & Compact Combed Yarn

34. Different Cotton can Result in substantial difference in Quality and Cost Is Cotton just Cotton or a Different Cotton can Make a World of Difference?

35. Ranking By Category

36. What questions should I ask? There are literally hundreds of variables in the spinning process which influence the outcome of fabric and garments.

37. Fiber Related Where is the source of fiber? Do you have a relationship with the fiber producer and spinner? What are the parameters in which the spinner purchases the fiber? Does the fiber perform to expectations in relation to yarn count and fabric properties? How is my garment impacted by fiber cost?

38. Machine Related Do you have a relationship with the machine manufacturer? What are the machine’s unique features? Does the manufacturer of the machines offer excellent service, adequate training, and able to respond quickly to parts and repair needs?

39. Supply Chain Related Is the spinner willing to partner with you and your the supply chain to improve the quality and performance of fabrics? Same goes with the machinery manufacturer? Will your fabric supplier be open to the idea of you stating the spinner you want to use? There may be bonds which need to be broken for this to happen..

40. Credits Dr. Yehia El-Mogahzy,Auburn University yehiae@eng.auburn.edu Rob Beal, Oerlikon rob.beals@oerlikon.com Mark Lingerfelt, Muratec mlingerfelt@muratec-usa.com Hans Rothen, Rieter Hans.rothen@rieter.com