Report on Design and Technical Development Workshop of Embroidery in Surajkardi, Dwarka

DESIGN AND TECHNICAL DEVELOPMENT
WORKSHOP OF EMBROIDERY
SURAJKARDI, DWARKA
WORKSHOP REPORT
BY: AVANI CHHAJLANI
Sponserd by:-
Office of Development Commissioner ( Handicrafts)
Ministry of Textiles
Goverment of India
New Delhi

DESIGN AND TECHNICAL DEVELOPMENT WORKSHOP OF EMBROIDERY, SURAJKARDI, DWARKA
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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
All great things in this world has contribution of great people and so did the people
who made this project possible. First and foremost I would like to thank Gujarat State
Handloom Weavers Co .Op and The Government of India, specially the office of
Development Commissioner (Handicrafts), Ministry Of Textiles, for the
encouragement and support they have provided to make this workshop and such
promotional activities possible.
My sincere gratitude & special acknowledgements to:
Development Commissioner (Handicrafts)
Ministry of Textiles
Government of India.
Deputy Director (WR)
Office of Development Commissioner Handicrafts Mumbai
Assistant Director
MARKETING & SERVICE EXTN. CENTRE,(H) OFFICE OF DEVELOPMENT COMMISSIONER
(HANDICRAFTS) MINISTRY OF TEXTILES, GOVERNMENT OF INDIA. AHEMDABAD
(GUJARAT).
(Organization) Gujarat State Handloom Weavers Co .Op . Federation Ltd
Ahmedabad.380006 And a special mention to all the crafts person of Dwarka Dist,
who were open to start a fresh with no inhibitions and were of great support to all
the people involved in the process.

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INDEX
 INTRODUCTION
 CRAFTS OF GUJARAT
 EMBROIDERY
 TYPES OF STITCH
 CLUSTER
 OBJECTIVE
 PROJECT METHODOLOGY
 BRIEF
 OBSERVATION
 ABOUT DWARKA
 MARKET RESEARCH
 MARKET INFORMATION
 IMPORTANCE OF MARKET RESEARCH
 MARKET RESEARCH
 METHODOLOGY OF MARKET RESEARCH
 PRODUCT SURVEY
 MARKET VISIT
 QUESTIONNAIRE
 SWOT ANALYSIS OF MARKET RESEARCH
 RISK ANALYSIS
 THE WORKSHOP
 TRAINING SESSION
 LIST OF ARTISANS
 DESIGN METHODOLOGY
 DESIGN AND PRODUCT METHODOLOGY
 WORKSHOP
 PRODUCT SELECTION
 PROCESS OF APPLIQUÉ AND EMBROIDERY
 PRODUCTS
 DESIGNERS VIEW ON FUTURES PROJECT

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INTRODUCTION
Gujarat, India's westernmost state, has varied terrain and numerous sacred sites. In its
urban center of Ahmedabad is the Calico Museum of Textiles, displaying antique
and modern Indian fabrics. Spiritual leader Mahatma Gandhi's base from 1917–1930
was Sabarmati Ashram, where his living quarters remain on view. The Jama Masjid
(Friday Mosque), built in the 15th century, has a huge courtyard and a columned
design..
It is home to a variedrange of ethnic communities, most maintaining traditional
dressand craft, including weaving, dyeing, printing, bandhani, embroidery,
leather work, pottery, wood work and metal work.
These crafts are an essential part of the way of life of the people inhabiting the
many villages, towns and even the cities of Gujarat.
Ahmadabad is located on the banks of the river Sabarmati. The city
was founded in 1411 to serve as the capital of the Sultanate of Gujarat
by Sultan Ahmed Shah. Under British rule, a military cantonment
was established and the city infrastructure was modernised and expanded.
The city developed a booming textile industry, which earned
it the nickname "the Manchester of the East". Today, Ahmadabad is
the fifth largest city in India with a population of over six million people.
It is a city of entrepreneurs and its traditional artisans are struggling
to find a foothold with the quickly changing aspirations of the public.
An effort is being made by “The House of MG” to document
and then use these artisanal skills in contemporary design. It
is attempting to do this by inviting designers from around the
world to work alongside the artisans and come up with products
that are relevant and contemporary, using traditional skills.

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In this project we are working on needle work, which comprises Embroidery and
patch work.
Needlework
Needlework of Gujarat is famous world over for its elegance and accuracy.
Embroidery is Gujarat's quintessential handicraft and many of the artisans are wives
of herdsmen, nomads and agriculturists battling for a second income. Ari bharat,
appliqué work are unique with its traditional skills. Toran is the most common
embroidered doorway decoration with hanging flaps, which is supposed to ventilate
good luck.
CRAFTS OF GUJARAT
The art and crafts industry of Gujarat offers a number of jewelry, metalwork,
embroidery, furniture, clay items, handmade durries (carpets), stone crafts and other
materials. The brass industry of Jamnagar is one of the largest in India. Gujarat is one
of the major producers of Brass and Iron items in the country.
Needlework Pottery
Tie and dye - Bandhani Woodwork
Bead work Textile culture
Patola Zari
Jewellery Temple culture
Furnishings

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Pachhitpatis (embroidered frieze) are hanged from the corners as a welcome
symbol to the visitors. Chaklas (embroidered square pieces) are used as furniture
covers while Bhitiya is the impressive wall hanging. Abhala (mirror inset embroidery)
has now become a part of the ethnic chic fashion world, where small mirror discs
are fixed with closely worked silken thread. Usually the mirror work is done on a dark
background with motifs like flowers, creepers, petals, etc. The motifs are inspired by
daily life; ancient belief.
Patchwork
Multicoloured covering of jigsaw pieces formed of geometrical shapes creating
tensile texture and a visual treat, is the impression one gets while seeing an appliqué
or patchwork. Colourful and vivid shapes and forms of fabric patched together or
on another surface create the most attractive and vibrant textile products. The
traditional techniques of appliqué and patchwork have over years been used in
paraphernalia of products both for functional and decorative purposeis most often
used to make quilts, but it can also beused to make bags, wall-hangings, warm
jackets, cushion covers, skirts, waistcoats and other items of clothing. Some textile
artists work with patchwork, often combining it with embroidery and otherforms of
stitchery.
When used to make a quilt, this larger patchwork or pieced design
becomes the “top” of a three-layered quilt, the middle layer being the batting, and
the bottom layer the backing. To keep the batting from shifting, a patchwork or
pieced quilt is often quilted by handor machine using a running stitch in order to
outline the individualshapes that make up the pieced top, or the quilting stitches
maybe random or highly ordered overall patterns that contrast with the patchwork
composition.
Appliqué
The art of decorating a textile product by applying fabric on fabric with the edges
sewn down by stitching can be termed as Appliqué.A coloured piece of fabric cut
into various snowflakes like forms or abstract rendition of birds and animals or simple
linear patterns is sewed on the surface of a different coloured fabric.

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The composition of forms on fabric surfaces adds in a quality of dimensionality while
providing visual depth and surface richness to the negative and positive design
background. Appliqué is created by two different techniques and its origin can be
identified by the style of fabrication, colour usage, composition and the kind of
forms of patterns used.
Reverse appliqué
A sewing craft in which an outline is cut from a top layer of fabric and the raw
edges are turned under and stitched to expose one or more layers of fabric
underneath.
History
Appliqué is an ancient technique of creating beautiful and decorative items with
different pieces of cloth. Nomadic people of the desert have long pieced together
their tents and even decorated them with elaborate appliqué. Festive patchwork
textiles created for special occasions are found in many places throughout India.
Pieced and appliquéd household items are made by women for dowries. These
objects include decorative bags, pillows and sitting mats. Appliqué played a part in
religious textiles as well. It has long been used to make decorative clothing, because
most clothing is used until it is worn out and then again reused to create beautiful
patterns out of the worn fabric. This serves both economic and decorative purposes.
Small pieces of fabric are cut and joined side by side to make a large piece of
fabric or for repairing a damaged fabric. The craft seems to have been prevalent all
over India.
“ In all periods there are to be found in pieced quilts both unique and conventional
designs; within the framework of the latter each maker had full liberty in terms of
colours, arrangements, sizes of the blocks and her own variations. So no two are ever
alike; each reflects the sensibilities and visual skills of its maker”- Jonathan Holstein

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TYPES OF STITCH
Applied pieces usually have their edges folded under, and are then attached by
any of the following:
Straight stitch, typically 20-30mm in from the edge.
Satin stitch, all around, overlapping the edge. The patch may be glued or straight
stitched on first to ensure positional stability and a neat edge.
Reverse appliqué: the attached materials are sewn together, then cut away where
another material covers it on top, before being sewn down onto the edges of the
original material.
Producer Communities
Throughout Kutch and Kathiawar regions of Gujarat many tribes practice appliqué-
embroidered work. Mutva, Hingorjah and Harijan (to name but three) are expert
appliqué workers. In Orissa this craft was traditionally practiced by professional tailors
know as „Darjis‟, but nowadays various other castes have also taken it up. In
Rajasthan the main communities practicing this craft are Rajput, Yadav, Acharya,
Muslim, Lohar and Soni.
Raw material
The basic material for appliqué is cloth. Cotton cloth, which was being used
traditionally, continues to be used today. Voile is also used to give it a more classy
and delicate look. Multi colored threads as well as fabric swatches are required as
per the design. 5. Tools Needle, a pair of scissors
Modern Fashion
In this sense,appliqué refers to using fabric shapes/designs usually on the trim of a
garment. This can either be sewn or glued. Many appliqués are exported from
China. Since many designers use appliqués that are mass-produced.

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EMBROIDERY
Embroidery from the Saurashtra and Kutch regions in Gujarat is not only famous but
also versatile. There are plenty of stitches used to beautify the product. Abhala is the
embroidery where small round pieces of mirrors are fixed on to the fabric using
buttonhole stitching";" the embroidery is done in a herringbone stitch using silken
thread. Rust, light green, indigo, blue, deep red, pink, and purple are the colours
used. skirts, kurtis(ladies shirt) and richly embroidered blouses are the other famous
items by the craftsperson?
Kathi is the oldest embroidery which is known for its romantic motifs. Geometrical
motifs are fabricated with multicoloured fabric pieces leading to patch work effect.
Varieties of items are prepared. Heer is an embossed stitch having shades of off-
white, yellow, madder red, black, indigo, ivory, and green. Small mirror pieces are
used to add more beauty to the embroidery.
Ari embroidery with silk threads using a hook is a popular craft of Kutch. The motifs
found commonly are, dancing peacocks, human figures in dancing poses. A
Bandhani pattern complimented with beautiful and delicate bead work is an art to
be praised. The various communities in Gujarat --- rabaris , , ahirs, , jats, bharwads
bharwads and harijans have their own styles of embroidery. Cotton and quality silks
are used by jats and mutuwas to decorate women's outfits. The embroidery of the
Rabari community is usually done on a maroon background with the enclosed
motifs.

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CLUSTER
Acluster is defined as geographical concentration of units producing near similar
products and facing common opportunities and threats.
The producers often belong to a traditional community, producing the long
established products for the generation.With a contribution of 40% to the country's
industrial output and 35% to direct exports, the Small-Scale Industry (SSI) sector has
achieved significant milestones for the industrial development of India.
Some facts:
 To promote local production,innovation and collective learning.
 It is estimated that 400 modern SSE and 2000 rural and artisan based clusters
exist in India.
 These contribute up to 60% of India‟s manufactured exports.
 The SSE clusters in India are estimated to have significantly high share in
employment generation.
 However, the majority of Indian clusters, especially in the handicrafts sector,
are very small with no more than hundred workers, so specialised that no
other place in the world matches their skills and the quality of their output.
CHALLENGES FOR INDIAN INDUSTRY
Becoming More Competitive in the global market by cost-cutting, productivity
improvement and efficient management of supply chains, greater public and
private investment in infrastructure.
Enhancing Access to Global Markets by greater policy coordination within the
Indian Government for a coherent approach to emerging trade policy issues, an
institutional partnership between the private sector and the Government in devising
specific marketing strategies.
Safeguarding Intellectual Property by effectively administering copyright and patent
legislation, encouraging more innovations and patenting them.
Promoting Small-Scale and Cottage Industries, and Regional Cluster Development
by removing policy impediments; financial support; technology, skills and quality
upgrading; market support and improving links between small and large firms.

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INTRODUCTION TO ORGANIZATION
Gujarat State Handloom Weavers Cooperative Federation (SHACOF), Ahmedabad
registered under Cooperative Societies Act vide No. U/5006 of 20.10.1995 is an Apex
cooerative Federation fundictioning the administrative control of the Government of
Gujarat incorporating a member from the Commissioner Cottage and Rural
Industestries, Government of Gujarat. The organaization has been actively
engaged in the field of Handloom, Handicrafts, Marketing, Health, Rural
Development, Community Empowerment, Social sector of the state, etc, since its
incorporation. The Federation has its Executive Body constituuting of dedicative
literates and social workers, those who are contributing in every aspects of the
functioning of the Federation.
The Federation has memebr cooperative societies as District representatives from
almost all the districts of the state of Gujarat as their as primary members of the
Federation. These member societies are inturn being administered by the
concerned District Industries.
In handicrafts sector, the Federation has a commendable involvement in promoting,
preserving, and developing the tradtion and heritage of the historic footpaths of the
predecessors of the state of Gujarat. The federation has been implementing various
developmental schems of the Office of the Development Commissioner
(Handicrafts) viz. Baba Saheb Ambedkar Hastshilp Vikas Yojana (AHVY) at Naroda,
Amreli and Kalol Clusters, Design and Technical Development Schemes, Marketing
Support Services Schemes and Human Resource Development Schemes, through
which, more than 2500 of artisans practising Patchwork, Hand Embroidery, Tie Dye,
Metal Jewellery, Applique, Agate stone, Mirror Embroidery, Bead Craft are being
benefitted in the fields of Training, Design and Marketing.
The Federation is organaising and participating in various marketing programmes
every year and ensure direct market linkage to its beneficiaries. It has its own
emporium to display and market the products of the artisans. As far as the social
sector is concerned, the organization extends moral support to the artisans in social
awareness, women empowerment, etc and provides help wherever necessary.

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CHAIRMAN
The Gujarat State Handloom Weavers Cooerative Federation Ltd (SHACOF)
PROJECT OBJECTIVE
The Design Workshop was conducted keeping in mind the existing skills of the
Craftsperson and the members of the organization. By organizing the workshop,
they planned to extend the latest know how in respect to craft design to craft
person to their doorsteps, to qualify them to meet the ever changing demands
of the hand crafted products in the Domestic and Export Markets. In order to
bring the craftsperson into direct contact with the designers, technical persons
and marketing peoples, the foundation aimed to conduct 25 day workshop. Further,
to educate and expose them to the crafts and techniques that could expand
market avenues for their work, thus making them better socially and economically.
Better markets could be created to, to fetch better premiums and consistent
production order flow based on the market survey and information shared with
them. This would benefit the craftsperson, womenfolk and members of the
foundation in particular, and the organization as a whole.
Primary Objective
 The basic aim is to give 25 days‟ workshop.
 To develop such products this enhances the present sale.
 To explore newer markets and lifestyles by developing value added solutions.
Secondary Objective
 Understanding the problem specially related to the marketing being faced
by the artisans.
 Defining
 feasible solutions in the problem areas concerning the local artisans.
 To give proper training to the new artisans who have joined recently, and to
qualify them to meet the ever changing demand.

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PROJECT METHODOLOGY
The Design and Development workshop was conducted from 6/6/17 to
5/9/17, keeping in mind the existing skill and infrastructure of the artisansof
SURAJKARDIDist. Dwarka and surrounding Village withthe following aims.
o To introduce new methods for production and quality parameters that
wouldimprove the look of the product range.
o To assist and help the craftsperson and the centre to create uninterrupted
o flow of business.
o To develop prototype that are in tune with the commercial design trends.
o To find new market avenues for the products and crafts persons.
o To bring the crafts persons into direct contact with designers, technical
o persons, as well as marketing agencies.
o to educate the craftsperson to be not only product oriented but be sensitive
o towards a look that will result in a better retail presentation.
o To introduce new design ideas, fabrics and trims what would help
indiversification of the product ranges.
o To open new avenues for the products developed through participation in
o crafts bazaars and exhibitions.
o Creating design that are production friendly so that it can be marketed on
o large scale.
o To stress on the qualitative aspects of Embroidery. In short, the centre
o would help the craftsperson move up one step ahead financially and also
o society by improving designs, finishing and Presentation of their products.

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BRIEF
To design 10 products while using appliqué work and embroidery with 30 women
artisans.
CASE STUDY
Group:The group of 30 women‟s are there at Surajkardi cluster.
Background:
 They between the ages of 19 to 65
 most of them are married.
 Most of them are uneducated and only 4-5 women had completed their
graduation and few of them are 10+2.
 They have learnt their skills from their parents.
 They all are keen to learn more about appliqué and embroidery as well.
 To begin with they are given training in basic stitching before moving on
specifically to appliqué.
 The samples they make during the course are retained by the NGO and sold
at exhibitions put up by the govt.
Observations:
 They hope to earn a living through this skill and most of them are vary of
sitting at home jobless.
 They need still more training to make more intricate designs.
 They need to be informed ,that what is a demand in the market of their skills.
 The kinds of samples they prepare during the training are designed
according to the new market.

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 Though they are trained in the skill they are given no inputs, through the
workshop, as to how they can take this forward and practice the skills.
 Familiarizing them with latest trends for which a short visit to the nearby mall
can be organized. While browsing through the shops the designer could point
out things that can help them innovate.
 For further exposure, a visit to stores like Fab India, should be organized. Here
they can show examples of good fabric, variety of fabric and a different sort
of color tone that is more on the sober sophisticated side. In the home
products section they can exposed to a variety of product range, which they
build on increase the spread of product range.

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ABOUT DWARKA
Dwarka is a small city and a municipality of Devbhoomi Dwarka district in
the state of Gujarat in northwestern India. It is located on the western shore of the
Okhamandal Peninsula on the right bank of the Gomti River. In 2011 it had a
population of 38,873. Dwarka is one of the foremost Chardhams, four
sacred Hindu pilgrimage sites, and is one of the Sapt Pari, the seven most ancient
religious cities in the country. Dwarka is often identified with the Dwarka Kingdom,
the ancient kingdom of Krishna, and is believed to have been the first capital of
Gujarat.
The city's Dwarkadhish Temple dedicated to Krishna was originally built around 2,500
years ago, but was destroyed by Mahmud Begada rulers and subsequently rebuilt in
the 16th century. The temple is also the location of Dwaraka maţha, also called
Sharada Matha/Peeth and "western peeth",[1][note 1] one of the four peeths
(Sanskrit: "religious center") established by Adi Shankaracharya. As an important
pilgrimage center for Hindus, Dwarka has several notable temples, including Rukmini
Devi Temple, Gomti Ghat, and Bet Dwarka. There is also a lighthouse at the land end
point of Dwarka.
Dwarka's economy relies heavily on pilgrims and tourism but is supplemented by the
production of millets, ghee (clarified butter), oilseeds, and salt, which are
transported from its port. A long-term development plan was proposed in 2011 by
the Government of Gujarat, with investment of ₹ 830 million to refurbish the city of
Dwarka and build a bridge connecting the city with Okha and Bet Dwarka.
Janmashtami is the main festival that is celebrated during August and September.
Sharda Peeth Vidya Sabha is an educational society sponsored by the Sharda
Peeth, Dwarka which runs an arts college in Dwarka. Dwarka was selected as a
heritage city by the Indian government's Heritage City Development and
Augmentation Yojana (HRIDAY) initiative.

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TECHNOLOGY ASSESSMENT, MARKET IMPACT SURVEY AND TEST MARKETING
REPORT
Design & Technical Development Workshop on
Patchwork Embroidery Craft
Organized by
Gujarat State Handloom Weavers Co .Op .Federation Ltd
Sponsored by:
The office of Development Commissioner of Handicrafts
Date: 06.6.17 To 5.9.17

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1) Introduction and What / Why / How?
2) 2. Market information
3) 3. Market segmentation / Customer analysis
4) 4. Market trends / Competitor analysis / Choice modelling
5) 5. Risk analysis
6) 6. Product research
MARKET INFORMATION
Patchwork and appliqué wall hangings, bedspreads, tablecloths, cushion covers,
bolster covers and quilts have become quite popular in the urban market. Demand
for appliqué work has increased over the last decade. The work is functional and
decorative at the same time. Patchwork designs are timeless; they grace any setting
– traditional and modern. Most of the patchwork products are produced in bulk for
the international and domestic markets. For the international market exporters use
more contemporary designs (usually geometric patterns) and pastel colours
(favourites are white on white, or cream on white). Similar trends are seen in the
domestic market as far as urban consumers are concerned. Designs like trees, birds,
and animal motifs are also popular in the domestic market. Appliqué does face
competition in the market just as other hand printed and handmade fabrics do
because of the price and the time involved in producing them in bulk.
It is any organized effort to gather information about markets or customers.
It is a very important component of business strategy. Theterm is commonly
interchanged with marketing research; however,expert practitioners may wish to
draw a distinction, in that marketing Research is concerned specifically about
marketing processes,while market research is concerned specifically with markets.

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Market Research is a key factor to get advantage over competitors.Market research
provides important information to identify and analyzethe market need, market size
and competition. Market researchis for discovering what people want, need, or
believe. It can alsoinvolve discovering how they act. Once that research is
completed,it can be used to determine how to market your product.
IMPORTANCE OF MARKET RESEARCH
Accurate market research is the foundation for every business or Marketing plan.
Ground Floor Partners can help you gain a much deeper understanding of:Market
opportunities i.e.
• Identifying existing customers
• Mapping prospects
• Finding Edge over competitors
• Strengthening employees
• Updating on current industry trends
• Awareness about environmental risks
• Conduct a comprehensive market opportunity assessment – Assessyour markets
and current market positions (market size andshare of market, channels, growth
trends, threats, and opportunities)
• Identify customer needs and determine which market segmentshold the most, and
least, attractive profit potential. • Find out whatcustomers and prospects think about
your new customer serviceprocedures, your sign-up process, your newest product,
your newtag-line, your invoicing process, etc.

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MARKET RESEARCH
Identify regulatory, political, and demographic trends that could createproblems
and opportunities - for your business.
Develop a thorough understanding of competitors –
o Who leads and who follows in this space?
o How much market share does each player have?
o What are their strengths and weaknesses?
o How do they differentiate themselves?
o How does their pricing strategy compare with yours?
o How do they market their products and services?
o How does their brand equity compare to yours?
o Identify opportunities to use your strengths and exploit competitor
weaknesses.
METHODOLOGY OF MARKET RESEARCH
Phase: 1 Initial search involved data collection in the entire chainstarting from -
Material supply, production in the village/ semi urbanareas, distribution channels,
visual merchandising, sales, and interviewingcustomers.
Phase: 2including screening document on Agate stone Craft, Otherpublished
articles on the related craft and web information search.

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This was to understand the relevance of the craft, when it was originated and now –
in a more contemporary context.
Phase: 3To analyze and summarizing the trends, opportunities
Ahead Research includes these following areas-
• Craft study
• Raw material
• Production process
• Existing range of products
• Skill level of the artisans
• Marketing linkages
•Socio-economic aspect
PRODUCT SURVEY
Companies and organizations usually prefer not to take any risks in business and take
essential steps in order to make sure that their investment and project is secure.
Conducting surveys and research programs are very common with manufacturers
as they want to make sure that the market and customers will accept their product
before producing it. A survey that is conducted by a company or manufacturer in
order to find out the comments and reactions of customers about a new product is
known as the new product survey. This is a simple process in which the customers or
a focus group is asked simple and easy questions about a product after giving them
an introduction to the product. With the answers and suggestions given by the
participants, the company evaluates the future value and possible risks with
developing the product.

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MARKET VISIT (PLACES)
Earlier, locally prepared colour used to be added to the white cloth and appliqué
products were prepared. But these days appliqué products are prepared out of
coloured cloth.Traditional works are suspended and alternative new products are
prepared.
Competition amongst the artisans, use of low quality inputs and use of readymade
and machine made items have often brought down the standard of the work.
For market research Ahmadabad city was must to visit first because, all these
products were going to be sell in such cities.And Ahmadabad and Jamnagar are
the closest city to Surajkardi.
Where stores like: Fab India,Anokhi,Artisans cottage,Okhai Handicrafts, Craft
rootsand few exhibitions had been visited to collect some recent information and
design trend about Appliqué and embroidery. These all stores are famous for their
craft oriented image and products too. These brands target the elite class. By
analysing theirproducts, it is reported that, they mostly use patchwork in home
furnishing. In home furnishing products application of motifs are broader and
scattered, so coasting is decreased. And new artisan is even be able to do that
work.
But can‟t say that, it is not using in apparels. They are even making apparels out of
it.They are bit costly,because of theirintricate work, overlapping of fabrics,
material,colours and all.
In Ahmadabad hatt,there were many shopkeepers except artisans were selling
many machine made appliqué and embroidery products too .So, that is again
another thing to work on. Those products are much cheaper than handmade
articles. because they need less manpower.

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Products which are already in market
Home furnishings, bags, Apparels....
These are the mixed products of FABINDIA, OKHAI HANDICRAFT, AHMEDABAD HATT.

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In order to the product survey we have asked some questions to number of people.
There were two groups basically
First was a group of students who are pursuing design from NID(National Institute of
Design),Ahmadabad, CEPT University, Ahmadabad, INIFD Rajkot.
Some working women‟s and households.(Areas like: Indian Oil colony, Rajkot and
residential areas near KKV hall, Rajkot)
QUESTIONNAIRE
Do you know about appliqué work or embroidery?
A.Yes
B .No
C. Not sure
Which would u prefer between machine embroidery or hand embroidery?
A. Hand Embroidery
B. Machine Embroidery
C. Both
Which would you prefer between machine appliqué or hand appliqué?
A. Hand appliqué
B.Machine appliqué
C.Both

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If Machine appliqué, then why?
A.quality of work
B.Cost effective.
C. doesn‟t bother
Have you ever met any artisan?
A. yes
B. No
C. don‟t remember
Which type of products will you prefer made of Appliqué?
A.Home Furnishings
B. Apparels
C. Both
Which type of product will you prefer made of embroidery?
A.Home Furnishings
B.Apparels
C.Both

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SWOT ANALYSIS AND MARKET RESEARCH

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STRENGTH
•Indian Handicrafts Industry has a
diversified and potential market in
domestic & international platform.
•It provides large product variety and
range as it is full of diversified culture.
•Industry is facilitated by diversified and
supportive retail infrastructure across the
country.
•Industry provides services to different
market (Handicrafts, Stone Jewellery)
because of diversified product range.
•Labour rates are cheap and it results to
competitive price.
•Industry needs low capital investment.
OPPORTUNITY
Rising demands for handicrafts.
Developing fashion industry requires
handicraft products.
Development of sectors like retail, real
state that offers great requirements of
handicraft products.
Development of domestic and
international tourism sector.
e-commerce and internet.
WEAKNESS
•Industry is lacking with infrastructure
and communication facilities.
•There is unawareness among craftsmen
about international requirements and
market.
•Lack of co-ordination between
government bodies and private players.
•Inadequate information of new
technology, developments and of
current market trends.
•Industry is still confined to rural areas
and small cities and not able to reach
untapped market.
THREAT
Competition in domestic market.
Balance between high demand and
supply.
Quality products produced by
competing countries like: china and
south Africa.
Better trade terms offered by competing
countries.
Increased and better technological
support and R& D facilities by competing
countries.
RISK ANALYSIS
 A concerted plan of action may be drawn up to develop:

28
 Craft tourism for domestic development of crafts by
 Encouraging the establishment of craft villages, andOrganized tour packages
to craft centres and museums;
 Craft markets at various points of entry into the country;
 Display outlets for crafts, using artisanal products inHotels and other
establishments.
 Measure the unique quality of every individual on our team of 30 women.
 Explain them that this a group effort and everyone has a role toplay.
 Explain about basic markets trends, local, in our case.
 A brief discussion on Fabrics, threads, trims, techniques.
 Quality check.
 Finishing
 Packing
 Response from the market.

This is the study of the various market places, ranges of the products and the other
different aspect of the study and observation.Mainly it includes the 3-P, People,
place and the product. We will be using the outcome of it in the various stages of
this Workshop to design, and development.
THE WORKSHOP

29
This Design & Technical Development Workshop organized by Gujarat State
HandloomWeavers Co .Op .Federation Ltd, Ahmadabad will help the artisans to
understand thecurrent trends in the market and help utilize & improvise their craft
skills, traditional &contemporary motifs, colors etc. and combine them with ideas for
newer and contemporary products that would find place and demand in the
domestic urban as well as international markets, which in turn will help in the
development of the man & women artisans and enhance their earning capabilities
and make them self – reliant.
The main aim to organize such Design & Technical Development workshop is to
introduce to the artisans newer methods of production as per the changing trends in
the market & improve on the quality. Introduction to the Project had many factors to
be looked upon. Since the workshop was an integrated one, it was mandatory to go
through different phases of the so called the design process First of all, a ‗SWOT
analysis„ was done which stated the required area of action. The strengths, the
weaknesses, the opportunities & the threats are a very integral part for initiating a
design process.A market survey consisting of the Local & the international Market
was done. After that the opportunity to integrate design in the workshop was
analyzed.Questionnaires and focus group discussion surveys are some of the
instruments formarket research. There are some important things.
TRAINING SESSION

30

31
LIST OF ARTISANS
List of beneficiary artisans Participate in Design & Technical Development
Workshop(AHVY) in Patch Work &Embroidery Craft at ARAMBHAD Dwarka Dst.
For SC Artisans
From Date: - 6/07/2017 to 5/09/2017
SR.
NO.
NAME & ADDRESS M/F BIRTH DATE CRAFT CAST
1
LILABEN JIVRAJBHAI PARMAR
SHAKTINAGAR KRUSHNANAGAR P.O
SURAJKARDI OKHAMANDAL JAMNAGAR-
361347
F 25-06-1977 EMBROIDARY SC
2
JIVIBEN NARESHBHAI PARMAR
361347
3 PARMAR JYOTSANABEN VINODBHAI
UDHYOGNAGAR PALDI ROAD SURAJKARDI
MITHAPUR JAMNAGAR-361347
4
RITUBEN JIVRAJBHAI PARMAR
361347
5 NIRUBEN NARENDRABHAI PARMAR
201,H.C.F.C.MITHAPUR CITY MITHAPUR
JAMNAGAR-361345
6 PARMAR KAMLABEN TAPUBHAI
JAMNAGAR-361345
7 NIRUBEN NARENDRABHAI PARMAR
JAMNAGAR-361345

32
8
CHANPA JAYSHRIBEN MANISHBHAI
361347
9
CHANPA SHOBHANABEN RAMESHBHAI
361347
10
MAVADIYA POOJABEN HARESHBHAI
361347
11 DIVYA NARANBHAI ROSHIYA
GANESHPARA OKHAMANDAL SURAJ KARDI
DWARKA MITHAPUR JAMNAGAR-361347
12
VIKAMA BHENIBEN PUNABHAI
MAKANPUR DWARKA JAMNAGAR-361345
13
NATHIBEN NAJABHAI HATHIYA
GORIYALI DWARKA JAMNAGAR-361335
14
CHANPA LAKHUBEN BHIMABHAI
361347
15
HATHIYA RATANBEN KACHRABHAI
361347
16 NATHIBEN PABABHAI CHASIYA
VANAND VADI SHAKTINAGAR OKHA
MANDAL MITHAPURA JAMNAGAR-361347

33
17
AMARBEN NAGRAJANBHAI CHASIYA
GANESHPARA DEVBHUMI DWARKA
MITHAPUR JAMNAGAR-361347
18
VARSAKIYA SOMIBEN BHOJABHAI
361347
19
HANSA GODALBHAI SADIYA
VANAND VADI SHAKTINAGAR OKHA
MANDAL SURAJKARDI MITHAPUR
JAMNAGAR-361347
20 RAMIBEN VIRABHAI PARMAR
110 MITHAPUR TA-DWARKA JAMNAGAR-
361347
21
VANITABEN GODALBHAI SADIYA
VANAND VADI SHAKTINAGAR
KRUSHNANAGAR P.O SURAJKARDI
OKHAMANDAL JAMNAGAR-361347
22
LAXMIBEN LAXMANBHAI PARMAR
361347
23 VALIBEN DEVSHIBHAI HATHIYA
GANESHPARA SURAJKARDI DWARKA
JAMNAGAR-361347
24
DEVIBEN DEVABHAI BATHVAR
NR RAMAPIR TEMPLE UDHYOGNAGAR
OKHA MANDAL DWARKA JAMNAGAR-
361347
25 BATHVAR RAMILABEN BHARATBHAI
UDHYOGNAGAR OKHA MANDAL
SURAJKARDI DWARKA JAMNAGAR-361347

34
26
HATHIYA VANITABEN KACHRABHAI
361347
27
BAGADA GITABEN HIRABHAI
07,SHAKTINAGAR KRUSHNANAGAR P.O
361347
28
CHANPA DEVIBEN RAJUBHAI
118,SHAKTINAGAR KRUSHNANAGAR P.O
361347
29
RANIBEN NARESHBHAI BATHVAR
SHAKTINAGAR SURAJ KARDI
OKHAMANDAL MITHAPUR JAMNAGAR-
361347
30
VALIBEN HARISHBHAI BATHVAR
UDHYOGNAGAR OKHAMANDAL
JAMNAGAR-361347
F 15-11-1989
PATCHWORK &
EMBROIDARY
SC

35
DESIGN AND PROJECT METHODOLOGY
The following mythology was implemented on Patchwork, Embroidery and Technical
Development workshop.
Background Survey and Networking: A detailed market survey of the importers and
exporters of dress materials and readymade garments, home furnishings and
accessories industry was done and its found that there is an immense potential of
this craft of patchwork in the international market of USA, EUROPE, AFRICA,
AUSTRALIA and some other countries. It was also established that the generic trend
world over is to buy articles which are both decorative as well as utility based.
Workshop
The workshop was conducted at Dwarka Dist. Ahmedabad
From the 6stJuly 2017 to the 5 September 2017 for 25 days.
The workshop was focused on the training of the artisans towards new designs
and product development and development in the quality of workmanship. The
Artisans were exposed to do the different types of embroidery and bead work for
the suitable end uses. The designs were such that the Gujarat State Handloom
Weavers Co .Op .Federation Ltd can use it for their sale in the domestic market and
fairs and exhibition that they participated in all over India.
Product design and Product Selection
• The present product range consists of Bed covers, Table covers and Curtains,
bags, Table mats and apparel (appliqué is added to readymade covers)
• The appliqué is supported by surface embroidery like running, it is mainly used to
outline the appliqué.
Home furnishings are very much in demand now days, and they doesn‟t even need
very intricate designs too.
They can earn more with home furnishing products.
• The patterns are derived from random sources like animal and flower motifs, from
which they are very much familiar. The senior artisans practicing appliqué have
specific set of designs that they make permutations of on the basis of colour
combinations or placement within a piece.
• The kind of fabric mainly used is cotton in a thicker weave.
• The products are haphazard and none seem to belong to one range.

36
• Colour options are applied according to market and mostly bright,but some of
them are designed especially for upper class,(so in those products mostly whites and
Indigo is used)
• Limited variety of materials used.
• Deriving patterns and colour combinations
• Contemporizing the patterns and icons used
• Understanding of colour and combinations, very random right now
• Their understanding of sewing can be used to widen product range
• Develop understanding of creating ranges
PROCESS OF APPLIQUÉ AND EMBROIDERY
Tools:
Cloth,needle,scissor,silk or cotton thread and bamboo frame.
Motif:
Buttis, floral motifs,paisleys,animal and bird motifs, leaves,abstract designs
A pattern to be appliquéd or embroidered is drawn in the butter paper.
A paper is then perforated on the pattern lines and placed on the fabrics.
Tracing: An actual-sized drawing of the design is transferred on to a large piece of
tracing paper. Tracing paper is placed on top of the design and the design is traced
out. Holes are pierced on the tracing paper along the design and water erasable
ink is used along the dotted line to transfer the design on to the fabric.
Pasting: Fabric is placed on to the background fabric and stuck with glue (called
„lai‟ in the local language, it is made out of wheat flour, gum and water).
Cutting of shapes / design: Once the fabric is prepared and the required design is
traced on it, 1/2” space is left between design motifs to allow for the seam when
cutting out the shapes. The shapes are cut out leaving 1/8”- 1/4" all around the
drawn line for turning under.
Tidying: The shaped edges are turned over on the drawn or stitched line.
Corners are made sharp and edges smoothened. The fabric patch should retain the
shape of the template used to cut it.

37
Stitching: Then using a blind stitch or appliqué stitch, the cut fabric is sown
with matching thread on to the background fabric. The stitching is started with the
background pieces first, working up to foreground pieces.
Finishing: The product is given final finishing touches. Any extra threads are cut, and
edges smoothened.
As per the design required, different colours of fabric are used. Sometimes the
cuttings are in contrast to the base fabric. Sometimes the same colour is used for
base and pattern, as in white on white, which is very much in current demand.
The craft consisted of cutting intricate floral, animal and geometrical patterns in
fabric that are then sewn together by hand. Muslin, which is used as the base
material is procured from Ahmadabad. Thick count fabric for a strong and durable
base and a thinner count for the upper layer, which is to be cut and stitched
together are chosen. These are cut in the size of 16” x 16” panels for work ease.
Desired patterns are either individually cut on the thinner fabric (in case it is a new
design) or they are stacked together, starched and ironed to make them crisp and
then cut together in a stack, running a rolling blade tool over the entire stack. These
layers are then separated and sandwiched with the thick count muslin at the base
and distributed amongst the women.
These individual square panels are then joined together to make bed sheets,
cushion covers, curtains, table runners, dress material etc. More than a hundred
designs, tessellated to form so many patterns. Mirror work with tiny round mirrors
embedded in the white appliqué work gives it a breath taking appeal.

38
LIST OF PRODUCTS
Sr.
No
Code Product Size PrototypingCost Sale
Price
1. GNW1 Cushion Covers 10* 10 inches 120.00 185.00
2 GNW2 Sofa Cover 90* 190 cm 350.00 500.00
3 GNW3 Table Mats 12* 16 inches 150.00 250.00
4 GNW4 Cushion Cover 16* 16 inches 300.00 500.00
5 GNW5 Curtain 35* 64 inches 350.00 550.00
6 GNW6 Bag 16 inches 250.00 450.00
9 GNW9 Bed Sheet 35* 75 inches 1900.00 2300.00

39
CUSHION COVERS
CODE:GNW1
PRODUCT: Cushion Covers
Size: 16* 16 inches.
Cost prize: 120/- each
Selling Price: 185/-each

40
SOFA COVER
CODE:GNW2
PRODUCT: Sofa Cover
Size: 40* 35 inches
Cost prize: 350/-
Selling Price: 500/-

41
TABLE MATS
CODE:GNW3
PRODUCT: Table Mats
Size: 16* 12 inches
Cost prize: 150/-

42
CUSHION COVERS (BOTH SIDE)- 2 Designs
CODE:GNW4
PRODUCT: Cushion Covers( 2 Designs)
Cost prize: 300/-

43
CURTAIN
CODE:GNW5
PRODUCT: Curtain
Cost prize:350/-
Selling Price:550/-
BAG

44
CODE:GNW6
PRODUCT: Bag
Size: 16 inches.
Cost prize: 250/-

45
CUSHION COVER
CODE:GNW7
PRODUCT: Cushion Cover
Cost prize:200/-

46
CUSHION COVER
CODE:GNW8
PRODUCT:Cushion Cover
Size: 16* 16 inches
Cost prize:200-

47
BED SHEET
CODE:GNW9
PRODUCT: Bed Sheet
Cost prize: 1900/-

48
CUSHION COVER
CODE:GNW10
PRODUCT: Cushion Cover
Size: 16*16 inches
Cost prize: 200/-
Selling Price:300/-

49
PARTICIPATION IN MARKETING EVENT AT AHMEDABAD HATT
FROM DATE 20/08/2017TO 05/09/2017
The products after refinement were kept into production into small quantities. So that
mass opinion can be attained. Accordingly SHACOF has participated in a marketing
event, held at
Responses
o Got good responses across the counter
o Since more of the products were designed for local customers, we had a
healthy retail response from the public.
o Products aimed for Export and cosmopolitan market though has lesser
response, but had got good acknowledgement from the elite class
customers.
o As Gujarat does not have exporters, the products aimed for export market
are to be planned for more exposureat Delhi,Mumbai,Chennai where
exporters and buying agents are available.
o However the products of the workshop got a good response and bring profit
to the cluster artisans.
Event Organized By
Gujarat Rajya Hastkala & Mahila Audyhogik Sahakari Federation
Ahmedabad (Gujarat)

50
PRODUCT REFINEMENTS
During exhibition it was seen that customers have some new views about some
products. Which we have noticed and find some new points to work on. We took
their views and talked them about our products .We discussed them about the
quality, designs and even about artisans. We have find some problems and try to
refined the problems.
Different customer belongs to different culture and classes too. Their demands and
likings do vary from each other. So, we took some very common points which we
have to work on.
BAG
The design of the fabric is fine. But, there should be chain with a mobile pocket.
which is mostly used gadget in today‟s world. Even the layering of some thick fabric
should be done for the stiffness. Handle should also be layered by some stiff fabric .
CURTAINS
Patchwork on curtain is definitely beautiful, but they all are mostly in white colour.
According to customers it should be in dark colour so that maintenance can be
done easily

51
DESIGNERS VIEW ON FUTURE PROJECTS
As part of our workshop planning, The Federation had arranged for interactive
Session, and the workshop conducted in a demonstrative mode so that
the participants were able to understand the practical ways of new designs
development and product diversification. Other modes of workshop were.
Lectures
Discussions and interacting
Guided as well as self initiated experience.
Sample and prototype development
Collective review and presentation.
The workshop began with interacting with participants about the objectives
and proposed methodology. Issues related to embroidered Products were
discussed in relation to the prevailing market scenarios. It was explained to
them in what ways such workshop is going to benefit them.
Thereafter selection of embroidery and patchwork persons were made for
forming different task groups.
Finally we were able to produce and make final. Gujarat State Handloom
Weavers Co .Op .Federation Ltd has stared establishing goodwill in the market
with some unique handcrafted products. The artisans are also skilled and
only need direction for making if the products and colour combinations.
It is suggested that with their existing skills and after the workshop they may
Make products such as:
Table covers, Laptopbags, Cushions
Co-ordinated table mats, napkins & coasters
Pillow covers coordinating with bed covers and curtains
Experiment with fabrics and colours, yarns, textures, hand feel etc.

52
CERTIFICATE
This is to certify that the Prototypes developed within the Design and Technical
Development Workshop at Surajkardi Dist. Dwarka Date:06 Aug 2017 to 5 sep 2017
for embroidery which is organized by Gujarat State Handloom Weavers Co .Op
.Federation Ltd, Ahmadabad, are innovative and marketable.
Thanking You,
Parul Baranwal

Report on Design and Technical Development Workshop of Embroidery in Surajkardi, Dwarka

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Report on Design and Technical Development Workshop of Embroidery in Surajkardi, Dwarka