1. 1
Raymond Limited
(Khadki Unit)
Address: N. H. No. 8, At Khadki, Po. Udwada, Tal. Pardi, Dist. Valsad. P.C. 396185. Vapi,
Gujarat
Raymond’s textile plant in Vapi is the youngest in the division that produces worsted suiting
fabric – the other plants being in Chhindwara, Madhya Pradesh, and Jalgaon, Maharashtra. The
property of 112.61 acres was acquired by Raymond with a vision to develop a world-class unit
to meet international standards.
Currently, the unit is engaged in manufacturing of premium worsted suiting fabric, and is
equipped with state-of-the-art technology with Hi-tech machinery - Warping equipment from
Switze rland; Weaving machines from Belgium; Finishing machines, Automatic drawing-in
and other machines from Italy – to produce 25 million meters fabric /annum. Some machines
to be named like Volkmann, Andar, NSC, TMT, M Tec, Lafer etc. This machines help to convert
1kg of wool into 3 kg of clothes. The plant, which began commercial production in 2006, is ISO
9001, 14001 & OHSAS-18001 certified and employs over 1500 people.
The foundation day of Vapi plant of Raymond was on 14th May 2005. This plant is constructed
in four phases. Phase 1 was constructed on 30th March 2006, Second phase was on 17th January
2007, Third phase was completed on 5th March 2009 and the last part was constructed on 31st
March 2012.
To support the day to day operation of the company, they have separate team of different
departments likes Quality Assurance, Human Resources, Production, sales etc. any many more.
Total employment at Vapi plant consists of 1327 workman and 225 people in management
team. The culture of Raymond which has helped Raymond to become at brand and successful
over its other competitor. They also follow the below mentioned practices like:
Recruitment of fresh & young work man
Multi-skilled
No clerical staff
Weekly shift rotation
Work load per workman
o 6 workman/shift in Greige and Combing Converter
o 11 workman/shift in Dyeing
o 4 Ring frame/ operator in Spinning
o 17 TFO/operator in Spinning (TFO = Two For One Twisting Machine)
o 10 Loom/workman in weaving process.
2. 2
Process Flow Chart
Greige and
Combing
Spinning
And Yarn
Finishing Folding
Production Capacity
Dyeing
Recombing
Warehouse
Kg or meter/day
Wool
Scouring
Weaving
and
mending
Wool Scouring 14000
Greige and Combing 7000
Dyeing 14000
Recombing 14000
Spinning And Yarn 7500
Weaving and mending 28000
Finishing 65000
Folding 65000
Warehouse (Dispatch Capacity) 150000
The above mentioned process of Scouring Dyeing, weaving, folding etc. is done in a U shaped
layout facility. This layout increases the efficiency of the assembly line. So they are able
maintain their lead time of 45 days. And the finishing process which is the heart of Raymond
3. 3
(feels like heaven) is never being outsourced. All the fishing processes are done in this premise
at Vapi. There is Quality Check at random sampling method after all process.
Scouring
First process of Raymond is Scouring of Wool. The wool is imported from South Africa,
Australia, and New Zealand in bales. Every week 100 tonnes of wool is imported and 1 bale is
equal to 40 kg. Wool straight off a sheep, known as "greasy wool" or "wool in the grease". In
this process Grease from the wool is removed and clean the wool for next process.
Scouring, the technical term for washing, is the first step in the process. In this process there are
6 chambers of blowers and 6 washers. In 1 round is of 40 minutes and there is 18 round/day. The
capacity of this process is 14 tonnes/ per day. This involves washing the wool in hot soapy water
to remove dirt, grease and dry plant matter from the fleece.
The key is to keep the water temperature and the volume of soap used as low as possible while
still being able to wash out the grease and dirt. Wool that is very greasy will require hotter and
stronger solutions to remove the grease. The preferred water temperature for washing wool is 60
Degrees. To maintain and check the temperature at this process is VNC Software (Virtual
Network Computing).
This process extracts 20 barrels/day of this grease which is used to make the face cream, face
pack, Ponds Cream etc. Through ducks this cleaned wool is send to the next process in different
buildings for Vapi, Chhindwara and Jalgaon as per the orders they received.
Carding or Combing
Carding is gently spreading of washed and dried wool in preparation for further processing.
Combing is straightening and stretching the fibers to obtain maximum spinning capacity. In this
process they make the wool straight which can be used to make Yarn out of that. There are
drums of different colours for easing of process and it also help to identity which barrels are
processed. 1 Drums can contain 22 to 25 kg of processed wool. The capacity of this process
is 100 cans/day.
Then the material has to pass by 2 Gilling machine. Here the short fibers are removed from
wool which used to make blankets (Kambals). These short fibers are 1.8% of how much is
produced in this process.
Finisher is the automated machine in which the combed wool is turned in to the tops of 10 kg
each. Polyesters are received from Reliance 20 to 25 bales of 160 kg each. Then these Polyesters
are also combed to make it straight and then they are converted into tops.
By using Polyesters and wool they make POLYWOOL, PURE WOOL, ALL WOOL,
4. 4
Dyeing
Dyeing is the process of adding color to textile products like fibers, yarns, and fabrics. Dyeing is
normally done in a special solution containing dyes and particular chemical material. After
dyeing, dye molecules have uncut chemical bond with fiber molecules. The temperature and time
controlling are two key factors in dyeing. For preparing the colours and time is controlled by
using Gant Chart. Dyeing is through three categories:
1. Yarn Dyeing: Yarn dyeing adds color at the yarn stage. Yarn dyeing provides adequate
color absorption and penetration for most materials. Thick and highly twisted yarns may
not have good dye penetration. There are 6 slots of 4 kg each and it takes 17 to 20 min. to
dye.
2. Top Dyeing: Top dyeing is dyeing worsted wool fibers after they have been combed to
straighten and remove the short fibers. The wool fiber at this stage is known as top. Top
dyeing is preferred for worsted wools as the dye does not have to be wasted on the short
fibers that are removed during the combing process. There are 37 containers which work
for 8 hours and produced 14 tonnes.
3. Piece dyeing: Fabric dyeing, also known as piece dyeing, is dyeing fabric after it has
been constructed. It is economical and the most common method of dyeing solid colored
fabrics. The decision regarding color can be made after the fabric has been manufactured.
Thus, it is suitable for quick response orders. Dye penetration may not be good in thicker
fabrics, so yarn dyeing is sometimes used to dye thick fabrics in solid colors. Various
types of dyeing machines are used for piece dyeing.
Recombing
After Dyeing, tops are again send to the Recombing section were straightening and stretching of
fibers is done to obtain maximum spinning capacity. Here the Wool and Polyesters according to
the ratio i.e. 70:30, 40:60 and so on. Here the capacity of this process is 14 tonnes/day. In this
process also the cans are coloured so as to know the status of the can and can know that for what
purpose that can is serving in this process. Gilling is again done after this process. As the before
step of this is a wet process of dyeing so the re combing section is fully air conditioned because
after dyeing the yarn is needed some amount of mositureness in the atmosphere. So this area is
maintained at cool temperature.
Spinning
This process is outsourced to different vendors. Spinning is the wool processing step where the
wool roving’s produced during carding, are turned into yarns. On a commercial wool processing
scale the roving’s passing through a spinning machine. On an individual scale a spinning wheel
5. 5
or a hand spindle is used. During spinning the wool roving’s are gently stretched again. Through
a series of twisting and spinning and twisting again the wool is spun into batches of similar
quality and strength. This process is done in three types
1. Pre Spinning
2. Ring Frames
3. Post Spinning (Yarn)
Then Drafting is done to make the yarn thin (0.22 or .060)
After spinning is done all the yarn is kept in the Yarn Room were everyday opening stock,
closing stock, Issued Material, and attendance is maintained.
Weaving and mending
Weaving is taking strings of yarn, setting them at right angles to each other and interlacing them
over and then beneath each other thus forming a woven mat. The yarn that is inserted over-and-under
the warp threads are called the weft, woof, or filler. Each individual warp thread in a fabric
is called a warp end or end. In warping beams are made with different patterns. There are 8
warping machines and each one take 1 hour to make a beam.
Knitting is done by forming loops of yarn and interlocking rows. You are continually forming
new loops and passing a string of yarn through it. Weaving is done through the Air force which
is Air jet looms which gives higher production rate as Rapier looms which is very versatile. In
that rapier looms can weave using a large variety of threads. There are several types of rapiers,
however they all use a hook system attached to a rod or metal band to pass the pick across the
shed. These machines regularly reach 700 picks per minute in normal production.
After Weaving, Calculation of meters is done and simultaneously manual checking is also done
to check damages that might occur will making the cloth.
Finishing
In textile manufacturing, finishing refers to the processes that convert the woven or knitted cloth
into a usable material and more specifically to any process performed after dyeing
the yarn or fabric to improve the look, performance, or "hand" (feel) of the finished textile
or clothing. This process is never been outsourced because Finishing is the Heart of
Raymond which makes the Raymond as to feel like heaven.
Raising
Another finishing process is raising. During raising, the fabric surface is treated with sharp teeth
to lift the surface fibers, thereby imparting hairiness, softness and warmth, as in flannelette.
6. 6
Calendering
Calendering is the third important mechanical process, in which the fabric is passed between
heated rollers to generate smooth, polished or embossed effects depending on roller surface
properties and relative speeds.
Chemical finishing
Many other chemical treatments may be applied to cotton fabrics to produce low flammability,
crease resist and other special effects.
Shrinking (Sanforizing)
Mechanical shrinking (sometimes referred to as sanforizing), whereby the fabric is forced to
shrink width and/or lengthwise, creates a fabric in which any residual tendency to shrink after
subsequent laundering is minimal.
Steaming and Heat setting
It is done by using high temperatures to stabilize fabrics containing polyester, nylon, or triacetate
but not effective on cotton or rayon.it may be performed in fabric form or garment form it may
cause shade variation from side-to-side if done prior to dyeing; may change the shade if done
after dyeing
Finished Fabrics
After finishing process starts, Grey Fabric is send to the A/C Room for cool down (1 Hour) as it
has been passed by the hot process for making it soft and then it is send to Quality department
for checking and then for C utting. The whole lot is called as “THAAN ”. The good meter is 9 and
15 meters thaan and export rolls are of 10 meters. While cutting 6 to 7% of defect is found.
There is approximately 188000 SKU.