An analysis of CoSTUME National, an Italian fashion house; specifically, the label\'s style and marketing strategy. Part of my coursework at Università Bocconi, Milan.

1. Alex Cookson Jancis Cunliffe Katie Matthews Lauren Stoneberg CoSTUME NATIONAL

2. HISTORY 1986: Ennio Capasa (designer) and his brother Carlo establish the brand CoSTUME NATIONAL after Ennio’s return from three years in Japan working for Yohji Yamamoto; the name of the brand is inspired by a book about French uniforms. First collection is described as ‘essential and sophisticated, intellectual and creative, at times severe, often sexy yet always wearable’ 1991: Shows women’s collection in Paris 1993: Launches Costume National Homme – said to have ‘divined the mood of male fashion for the 1990s’ – the preferred look is a tuxedo jacket with leather or woven jeans 1996: Pitti Immagine Uomo dedicates its 51st version to the brand 1998: Head offices are opened in Milan, and boutiques in Milan, New York and Tokyo; later boutiques are opened in Rome, Los Angeles and Paris 2002: Scent trilogy is launched after Ennio Capasa personally dedicates two years to the project 2003: Range of eye glasses is launched 2004: C’N’C CoSTUME NATIONAL, the brand’s second line, is launched 2005: collaboration between C’N’C and Ducati results in a range of items and accessories 2006: Ennio Capasa designs the “Black Dogo” motorbike for Ducati 2007 : Costume National Active (a range of deluxe sneakers) is launched; “Absolute Vodka for Fashion Animals” vodka bottle; Autovettura Alfa Romeo 147; launch of unisex perfume ‘Costume National 21’ 2008: Licence agreement between CoSTUME NATIONAL and CULT for eyewear comes into effect

3. HISTORY 1986: CoSTUME NATIONAL 1991: Women’s collection shown in Paris 1993: CoSTUME NATIONAL Homme 1996: Pitti Immagine Uomo’s 51 st version 2002: Scent trilogy 1998: Head office (Milan) and boutiques (Milan, NY, Tokyo, Rome, LA, Paris) opened 2003: Eyeglass range 2004: C’N’C CoSTUME NATIONAL 2005: Ducati/C’N’C accessories 2006: CoSTUME NATIONAL active (sneakers), Absolut Vodka for Fashion Animals, Autovettura Alfa Romeo 147, CoSTUME NATIONAL 21 perfume

4. ” “ ASPIRATIONAL The woman in my mind is definitely cosmopolitan, a woman who knows how to be at one and the same time a bit sexy, chic, street smart and also couture TARGETS – Ennio Capasa

10. MILANO RETAIL Features: TV screens in walls display runway shows; ads are displayed on the walls; nothing in-store dramatic enough to take attention away from the clothes IDENTITY Materials: hard materials on wall (plastic/melamine panelling), but soft materials on the floor (suede- or velvet-like carpet and seating) Colours: white and cream, grey, black; all colour in the store is given by the clothes/accessories on display Image/style: minimalist, sleek, clean, and cool, yet personal and cosy Lights: lights are not a feature of the store; lights shine down upon the racks of clothes on display Music: relaxed music played softly so as not to be overbearing; English lyrics; music in-store less edgy than that of the online store

11. MILANO RETAIL IDENTITY Shapes: almost all straight lines (panels, counter, display cubby-holes are all rectangular or square), but seating is curved Store layout: the store is small and has the counter in the very centre, facing the door; the clothes are displayed on racks around the outside walls, with no displays in the centre of the room Sales assistance: cordial and helpful; staff are ready to assist but aren’t pushy; staff wear black, which fits with the feel of the store Product disposition: no mannequins are used to display the clothes; the only products that are displayed facing the customer are shoes and bags, while all clothes are placed perpendicular to the walls on racks; clothes are grouped by colour Shopping experience: personal, small store; no clutter Store windows: there are no store windows; the door is the only transparent area facing the street: keeps the feel of the store personal, since not many people would walk into the store without knowing the brand

14. CONCLUSIONS Basic Simple colours Edgy CoSTUME NATIONAL Products Simple designs Mostly black & white Urban and sporty Store Spartan design, little decoration, no distractions from the product Mostly black & white Use of lines, trendy music, interesting presentation of clothes (cubbies)      

15. CONCLUSIONS Traditional ads Professional models in dramatic poses (distracts from the product) Mostly black & white Professional models in dramatic poses, communicates an exciting lifestyle    Basic Simple colours Edgy Website No poses, models are a canvas for the clothes (not a distraction from the product) Mostly black & white, with accents of brighter colours Use of lines, trendy music, visually appealing       CoSTUME NATIONAL’s different channels are almost completely cohesive. They all use simple ways and simple colours to communicate the message of edgy products