Presentation from Professor Sandy Black, Centre for Sustainable Fashion, University of the Arts, WEAR Sustain Open Call London Launch, Digital Catapult 3rd May 2017
2. The Power of Fashion
• Social catalyst
• Communication medium
• Personal and public realms
• Display status, sexuality, messages
• Enhance self esteem and express identity
• Reduce stigma in medical/professional contexts
• Engender belonging or difference
• Make radical statements
• Engage others
• Be cool
3.
4. The Fashion Paradox: fast fashion,cheap fashion
fast fashion, cheap fashion
The opening of Primark Oxford St
London 2008
8. The paradox of fashion consumption and obsolescence
sustaining economic infrastructure, employment and trade.
Fashion cycles and fashion cultures, the logistics of the
design and manufacturing processes in the fashion
industry’s supply chains, and the role of the designer.
Ethical considerations and environmental impact in textile
and fashion design and production. Humanitarian and social
issues eg fair trading, transparency and labour rights,
inclusive design
Changes in consumer behaviour; evolution of faster fashion
cycles and online channels, social shopping influencing
purchasing decisions
The Fashion Paradox: transience vs sustainability
9. Issues for the textiles and fashion supply chain
environmental impact of textile raw materials, dyes,
effluents and processes, a global supply chain
product design choices and impact on life cycle
- raw material, processes and finishes, manufacture
transportation , laundry and care, disposal infrastructure
re-use, reduce, recycle, re-design, repair, disassemble?
rethink!
the impact of the current fashion system and trends:
- faster fashion cycles and cheap disposable fashion
sourcing of ethical production and working practices,
offshoring vs reshoring
Centre for Sustainable Fashion LCF
10. Evaluation carried out in 2006 for the
Department for Eco-Design &
Sustainable Development of the
French Environment Agency ADEME
12. Solutions?
Less but cleverer stuff
Multifunctional textiles- both delightful and useful
New fibre technologies
Nano-composite materials for fabrics
Fabric coating and micro-encapsulation for therapeutic clothing
Smart materials from renewable sources
Enhanced safety and security – eg warning indicators
New design and manufacturing paradigms
Fashion on demand
Personalised fashion
Local manufacturing
Flexible manufacturing
Longer lasting refreshable clothes
Reduction in cleaning needs
Centre for Sustainable Fashion LCF
13. Wish list for multi-functional textiles and fashion
Fashion which can delight and endure through variation in
surface qualities, density, size and aesthetics
Fabrics which last longer, stay cleaner, and use less energy and
resources to make.
Fabrics which are made from bio-degradable materials
and which decompose benignly
Multifunctional fabrics which can change in colour and pattern ,
without using battery power, in response to mood, choice
Fabrics which can communicate through display
Fabrics which are truly breathable and can ventilate or insulate
in response to conditions
Fabrics which can mend themselves and recharge their
functionalities
Centre for Sustainable Fashion LCF
14. Here and now - materials and technologies
•thermochromic, photochromic and electrochromic materials
•phase change materials
•shape memory alloys and polymers
•conductive fibres and yarns – metals, conductive polymers
•quantum tunnelling composites for switching devices
•piezoelectric resistance
•bio-materials
•light emitting polymers
•light emitting diodes
•photovoltaics and solar cells
•photoluminescence
•fibre optics
•traditional weaving, knitting and embroidery with conductive
threads
Centre for Sustainable Fashion LCF
15. even more technologies….
•Holography
•plasma technologies for fibre and fabric coating
•electrospinning and non-woven fibre assemblies
•carbon nano tubes and graphene
•organic/plastic electronics
•micro and nano encapsulation
•sensor technologies – hard and soft
•virtual and augmented reality
•global positioning systems and wireless communications
•radio frequency identification (RFID) tags
•micro-electronic mechanical systems (MEMS)
•ubiquitous computing and Internet of Things enable immersion
Centre for Sustainable Fashion LCF
16. What is the Future of Digital Fashion and
Wearables? What is the potential for digital fashion?
Is there a future for craft and hand made?
How will we expect our clothing to perform for us in 20
years?
What can wearable technology do better for us?
What are the implications for sustainability and waste?
If our emotional states can easily be revealed by
sensors, chips and tags in our surroundings , then who is
in control of our identity?
Can we choose not to participate in the IoT?
With the future potential for technology implants will the
body become the ultimate computer interface?
Centre for Sustainable Fashion LCF
31. CONSIDERATE DESIGN for
PERSONALISED FASHION PRODUCTS
Prof Sandy Black, LCF
Dr Claudia Eckert, Open University
Philip Delamore LCF
Dr Frances Geesin LCF
Steven Harkin Design
Dr Penelope Watkins LCF
Dr David Wynn EDC Cambridge
Fatemeh Eskandarypur
32.
33.
34. Individual size and shape: made to measure
customisation paradigm
UCL/London College of Fashion
82. Digital bubbles
Intelligent data exchange between multi-layer
bubbles and between appliances within bubbles
Bubbles can link
to emotion
detection,
medical
monitoring,
thought
recognition.
Communication
via skin, or radio.
Powering needs
nanoscale
devices for
energy harvesting
or use of fuel
cells.
Bubbles can link
to emotion
detection, medical
monitoring,
thought
recognition.
Communication
via skin, or radio.
Powering needs
nanoscale devices
for energy
harvesting or use
of fuel cells.
Digital Bubbles- Ian Pearson
Intelligent data exchange between multi-layer bubbles
and between appliances within bubbles
93. Interactive software interface
Unmade have taken on the paradigm of ‘ fashion on demand’ – carrying no stock and making knitted
sweater only to order.
Combination of skills has been vital
INNOVATION
Consumer can customise a range of
patterns over the knitted garment and
then have it knitted to order. Each
piece is unique and Unmade until
connected to the customer
UNMADE/ Knyttan
96. Fashion is a powerful catalyst for engagement
and social change
Future fashion products must address the complex
issues of sustainability, and still satisfy our personal,
environmental, economic and social needs.
Can technology create greater satisfaction and thereby
reduced consumption and waste?