Anatomy of Agave-Seductive Succulent Presentation

T H E A N A T O M Y O F
T A L E S O F T H E C O C K T A I L 2 0 1 5
A G A V E
S E D U C T I V E S U C C U L E N T

I V Á N S A L D A Ñ A
Agave and Mezcal Specialist,
Montelobos Mezcal Brand founder
T O M A S E S T E S
Tequila Ambassador for Europe,
Tequila Ocho Brand Founder
A seminar of scientific and social insights
on agave derived spirits
WEDNESDAY JULY 15, 2015
10:30 AM — 12 PM

✦ Why agave derived spirits are so complex?
✦ Why agave spirits enjoy a terroir effect no other spirit can show?
✦ Why agave derived spirits enjoy the biggest biological diversity
background from all other spirits on earth?
✦ How herbaceous agave flavors where created during evolution
and what purposes they originally served on plant?
✦ Why sugars in agave needs to be roasted and what sensorial
benefits is created by doing this?
✦ Why agave plants are difficult to reproduce sexually and what are
the challenges to maintain the diversity of these plants?
Section 1 - Agave: a unique raw material

✦ How agave spirits build their diversity? - terroir, biological diversity
and processes
✦ How ancient drink such as tepache and pulque are related to
mezcal?
✦ How old are the process used to transform agave into agave
spirits?
✦ What makes tequila, mezcal and other agave spirits different? What
are the arguments for calling tequila, mezcal, bacanora, raicilla with
different names?
✦ What extra layers of flavor -a part of what is provided by the agave
- are introduced when roasting underground (smoke) and wild
fermentation is maintained ?
Section 2 -Agave spirits: the most diverse
category of the world
: a unique raw material

✦ How agave spirits build their diversity? - terroir, biological diversity
and processes
✦ What quality means in agave spirits vs. other categories?
✦ Can we say one agave spirit is better than other? Complexity, rarity
and uniqueness
✦ It is possible to determine what "historic taste" is?
✦ Can agave spirits explore new paths without loosing integrity?
✦ What is next in agave derived spirits? Should only the past exist?
Can we make new spririts in this category with authenticity ?
✦ How can I as a bartender contribute positively to the development
of the agave spirits? drink such as tepache and pulque are related
to mezcal?
Section 3. Looking for an integrative of
agave spirits

Section 1 - Agave: a unique raw material
(30 min)

Agaves is more complex than other raw materials
• Agave is an herb with the ability to store sugars.
Agaves have life cycles from 6 to 35 years. Their
biochemistry is the most complex from all:
protein, terpens, fatty acids, complex polymeric
sugars, organic acids, etc.
• Cereals and grains have very
limited chemical complexity: just
starches. Changes in weather will
not really modify their
characteristics. Only yields
• Fruits have organic acids, some
terpenes, fermentable simple
sugras. They generallty reflect the
conditions of growth durian one
circle - a year

Terpenes: the Raw Agave
A. Peña-Alvarez et al. / J. Chromatogr. A 1027 (2004) 131–136 135
Table 2
Terpenes identification of A. salmiana, A. angustifolia and A. tequilana Weber var. azul
Compound Agavea tR (min) Compound Agavea tR (min)
␣-Phellandrene 1, 3 13.129 Antrastreptene 3 25.090
␣-Terpinene 1,3 13.527 Bergamotene 3 26.374
p-Cimene 1, 2, 3 13.786 ␤-Farnesene 3 26.793
Limonene 1, 2, 3 13.945 Naphtalene 1,2,3,4 3 27.572
␤-trans-Ocimene 1, 2, 3 14.156 Germacrene 3 27.661
␤-cis-Ocimene 3 14.508 ␣-Curcumene 3 27.941
Sabinene (H2O) 3 14.840 ␣-Muurolene 3 28.167
Linalool 1, 2, 3 16.236 ␣-Bisabolene 3 28.279
2,4,6-Octatriene 3 17.571 Cadinene 3 28.770
4-Terpineol 1, 3 18.812 ␣-Pirovetivene 3 28.863
␣-Terpineol 2,3 19.216 Cedrol 3 29.050
Nerol 2, 3 20.282 trans-Nerolidol 1, 2, 3 29.624
Bornil formate 3 20.438 Cardelene 3 31.503
Geraniol 1, 2, 3 21.031 Cadinol 3 31.861
␣-Cubebene 3 24.644 Patchouli alcohol 3 32.518
Copaene 3 24.827 ␣-Bisabolol 3 32.745
a (1) A. salmiana; (2) A. angustifolia; (3) A. tequilana Weber var. azul.
ester (EE17:0), stearic acid ethyl ester (EE18:0), oleic acid
ethyl ester (EE18:1), linoleic acid ethyl ester (EE18:2) and
linolenic acid ethyl ester (EE18:3). The quantification was
made using response factors of each fatty acid and tride-
cylic acid as internal standard (IS). The repeatability of the
method was <8.0% R.S.D. (n = 3) for all the fatty acids
(Table 1). As is shown in Fig. 2 and Table 1 Linoleic acid
ethyl ester (EE18:2) has the highest concentration in the
retention time of standards, Kovats Index and the NIST
library of the MS. In the preliminary identification, nine
terpenes were identified in A. salmiana, eight in A. an-
gustifolia and 32 in A. tequilana (Table 2) observing that
the linalool is the main terpene in the three Agave plants.
The concentration of some terpenes in A. salmiana and
A. angustifolia is little, therefore, it is not possible to
identify them with certainty. More monoterpenes than

Fatty Acids A. Peña-Alv
Table 1
Quantitative results of fatty acids analysis
A. salmiana (␮g/g) R.S.D. (%)
EE12:0 1.7 5.7
EE14:0 4.2 3.1
EE15:0 7.8 1.9
EE16:0 265.0 1.3
EE16:1 6.3 8.1
EE17:0 6.4 4.6
EE18:0 19.9 5.6
EE18:1 101.2 2.1
EE18:2 783.7 4.0
EE18:3 140.5 4.5
Total 1336.8 –
the total volumes in the ternary systems includ
present in the sample.
Agave tissue contains 83.4% water 50 g of fresh or frozen
tissue of Agave were homogenized with 52 ml of methylene
chloride, 104 ml of methanol (1:2:0.8) and 500 ␮l of internal
standard (16.6 mg/ml) in a Waring Blender during 2 min.
Then 52 ml of methylene chloride was added and blended for
30 s and ﬁnally 50 ml of water was added and blended again
for another 30 s. The ﬁnal proportion of methylene chloride,
methanol and water was 2:2:1.8. These ratios represented
Fig. 1. Chromatograms of the fatty acids analysis of Agave salmiana.
Chromatographic conditions in the text.

‣ Agave evolved in stressed environment
‣ Plants have adaptation that provide
plasticity
‣ Expression of their chemical qualities can
vary drastically depending where the
plant grows
An agave can express certain
ﬂavor/aromatic compound
depending on the land it grows
and the cultivation conditions
utilized.

• Multiplication factor - Reproduction (generation of new individuals
from living ones in a population)
• Variability factor - Mutation (random errors introduced when a
genetic copy of an organism is made) and Gene combination
• Selective Force - Natural or Human constrains that limit certain
individuals to reproduce or live
• TIME, TIME, TIME ———— MILLIONS OF YEARS
Ingredients of evolution

Multiplication and Variability

Natural selective forces shaping the agave plant

Incredible plasticity and unique adaptations

170 - 200 MILLION YEARS
MONOCOTSAPPEAR
11.8 MILLION YEARS
AGAVEGENUSAPPEARS*
*El Agave se une a la historia del hombre hace once mil años cuando éste cruza el estrecho de Bering
Evolution of agave plants in time

6.2 MILLION YEARS
HOMOSAPIENS
APPEARS
11,000 YEARS
BEGINNINGOFTHE
POPULATIONOFAMERICA
2,500 YEARS
AGRICULTURESTARTS
INMESOAMERICA
Human selection only 11,000 years

Taxonomy 
Class
Subclass
Order
Family
Subfamily
Genus

distribution 
• 2) Agaves occur naturally from the
south of Utah, USA to Venezuela,
there are almost 150 species (90% in
Mexico)
• 1) Mexico is the speciation
centre for the Agavaceae family
• 3) Agaves have evolved within arid to
semi-arid conditions

Storage sugars: Fructan 
Fructans are polymeric carbohydrate
molecules formed by fructose units
They are present in approximately 15% of
higher plant
Branched agave fructans
Due to their physicochemical properties:
1) they provide resistance against
environmental stresses
2) They are soluble all the time and can be
transformed in other compounds very fast
This sugar serves as the source of sugars for
tequila

Section 2 -Agave spirits: the most diverse
category of the world

In the past all where names as Mezcal. Its core deﬁnition
is any distilled spirit from the exclusive fermentation of
Agave sugars, regardless of any specie or variety of Agave
used or territory where it is produced.
1.1 DIVERSIDADYCLASIFICACIÓN
La riqueza patrimonial del mezcal se sos-
A DOS
WHAT ARE AGAVE SPIRITS?

“Mezcal to wake the
dead...”
Unique characteristics
‣ Unique raw material - herbaceous nature not
grain or fruit
‣ European and Prehispanic - Asiatic?
‣ Highly complex and sophisticated profile. No
need for aging.
‣ Certain parallelism with Single Malt Whiskeys
‣ Small distilling facilities
‣ Smoke

In an artiﬁcial manner, the right of use the
word Mezcal is restricted to be used in
products produced with in a restricted
region. This represent an unfair restriction
unrealated with quality or tradition
arguments
FLOWERSTALK
BULBILS
APICALNEEDLE
SUCCULENTLEAF
LATERALSPIKES
‣ In 30 of 32 Mexican States. Nevertheless, only few are
considered within the Denomination of Origin.
‣ A very odd DO: it is larger than half of Europe. Will be
more appropriate to create various DOs
‣ Total confusion between what is DO and basic
definition of the product
Where are agave spirits produced?

The Agave spirits wealth will
be maintained as far as we are
capable of keeping alive the
maximum number of biologic
and cultural expressions in
this product
Antique heritage

•Other spirits made with agave plants are: Mezcal, Bacanora and Sotol. they are
produced utilizing other species different from Agave tequilana(ex. Agave
potatorum, Agave augustifolia)
•Spanish (distillation technology) and pre-hispanic uses (Pulque). Tequila is a
unifying national symbol
•These products have differentiated production processes and have a high
organoleptic differentiation depending on the raw material utilized
•These products so far, are starting to gain an important role in the Mexican or global
spirit market
Agaves have been used in Mexico and Central
America for more than 9,000 years.

THERE ARE THREE MAIN SOURCES OF DIVERSITY
1.2 INFORMACIÓNBÁSICA
PARACOMPRENDERUNMEZCAL
Aunque legalmente existen tipos y clas
establecidos en la norma del mezcal y d
VARIEDADES
DEAGAVE
DIVERSIDADDEPROCESOS
YABOCAMIENTO
EFECTODEL
TERRUÑO
LAEXPONENCIALDIVERSIDADDELOSMEZCALE
VARIETIES OF AGAVE USED AS RAW MATERIAL
YABOCAMIENTO
ECTODEL
ERRUÑO
CIALDIVERSIDADDELOSMEZCALES
DIFFERENT PRODUCTION PROCESSES
2 INFORMACIÓNBÁSICA
RIEDADES
EAGAVE
YABOCAMIENTO
EFECTODEL
TERRUÑO
AEXPONENCIALDIVERSIDADDELOSMEZCALES
THE TERROIR EFFECT
Elements contributing to Mezcal diversity

The diversity of Mezcal
Mezcal offers the widest spectrum of styles from all
spirits categories due to the large biodiversity
utilized, the diversity of terroirs and the many ways
of processing the raw material utilized
AGAVE
VARIETIES
DIVERSITYINPRODUCTION
PROCESSESANDADDITIONAL
FLAVORING
TERROIR
The exponenial diversity of mezcales

SPECIES AND VARIETIES
ARROQUEÑO
Agave americana L.
PAPALOTE
Agave cupreata
CIRIAL
Agave karwinskii Zucc.
TOBALÁ
Agave potatorum Zucc.
ESPADÍN
Agave angustifolia Haw.
‣ There are between 150 y 200 species
‣ From each specie there can be many
varieties
‣ Around 30 are commonly used in México,
15 within the DO
‣ The agaves can be:
✴ CULTIVATED
✴ WILD
✴ SEMI-CULTIVATED
An agave can express certain
ﬂavor/aromatic compound
depending on the land it grows
and the cultivation conditions
utilized.

MEZCAL PRODUCTION
The technology used for the production of mezcal is a merge
between pre-hispanic and European traditions
PREHISPANIC METHODS OF PRODUCTION
•Central and south México
•An enormous prehipanic heritage that prevails
•In Michoacán, Hidalgo, Estado de México,
Puebla, Guerrero and Oaxaca
•Much more rudimentary
Technologies
- Production for self-consumption and exchange
- Labor is generalist and non-specialized
- Use of cultivated and wild agave
- Wood cooking is used for roasting agave
(below or sometimes above)
- Volumes are very low
COLONIAL METHODS OF PRODUCTION
•Most West and North of México,
•Stronger Spanish influence
•Hacienda Economic Model
Technologies
- Production for commercial proposes - Hacienda
Model
- Labor is specialized and distributed between
workers
- Monocultives of high yield agaves and only few
wild species used (A. salmiana)
- Pressurized Steam is use for Agave roasting
- Access to metal, industrial European models
- Volumes can go from high to medium

MEZCAL PRODUCTION
Legislation allow non-exclusive use of agave sugars and some brands has chosen
technologies that do not contributes with the quality of product
INDUSTRIAL PRODUCTION OF AGAVE DISTILLATES
•Evolved in the last 30 years as a response to the tequila boom
•Reducing Cost production by using other sugars and reducing energy requirements
•Maximizing yields with more efficient sugar extraction, faster fermentation and distillation
• Shortening agave agricultural cycles
•Legislation permits the use of sugars from other origins up to 49%
•Technology from other industries where introduced
• Agave plantation (for A. tequilana) are managed under intensive technological packages as
tissue culture for propagation, and strong quantities of herbicides, pesticides

Flavour originates from four main sources
THE CORE SOURCES OF FLAVOR IN MEZCAL
Fats, nail polish,
rippen fruits,
mango, banana.
Chocolate, chile,
ﬁrewook.
Honey, almonds,
vanilla, caramel.
Citrus ﬂavors,
mint, anise,
bitters.
FERMENTATION WOOD/SMOKE COOKEDAGAVE GREENAGAVE

A CULTIVATION, SELECTION & HARVEST
B.COCIMIENTO
A.SIEMBRA, SELECCIÓN Y JIMA DEL AGAVE
ARROQUEÑO CUPREATA CIRIAL TOBALÁ ESPADÍN AZUL CHATO VERDE
Los agaves cultivados son sembrados partir de hijuelos, semillas o bulbillos ﬂorales en
tierras de cultivo o laderas de monte. En los cultivos industrializados, particularmente
para tequila, se pueden usar agaves obtenidos por micropropagación. Los agaves tar-
darán entre 6 y 15 años, dependiendo la especie, en madurar. En el caso de la producción
artesanal, cada planta de agave es elegida al alcanzar su madurez, limpiada y jimada en
campo. En muchos casos se usan agaves silvestres o cultivados con técnicas orgánicas
ancestrales. En el caso de producciones más industrializadas, se valora el predio y se jima
parejo. Estos agaves suelen ser manejados agricolamente con fertilizantes, herbicidas y
pesticidas, lo que tiene impactos ambientales inevitables.
Objective: Seed, maintain and harvest the raw material for mezcal
production. in case of wild agave, select and harvest.
‣Agaves take between 6 to 20 years to reach maturity. Time depends on specie and terroir
‣ In artisanal mezcal, harvesting decision in perform in a plant-by-plant basis, cleaning them in the
field. The agricultural techniques used are mostly organic and faithful too ancient way of work.
‣ In industrialized plantations, harvesting is performed on an field basis. They tend to use tissue
culture and highly sophisticated technological packages of persticides/fertilizers/Herbiciedes during
the plantation life span.

1.2 INFORMACIÓNBÁSICA
PARACOMPRENDERUNMEZCAL
Aunque legalmente existen tipos y cl
establecidos en la norma del mezcal y
tequila, la realidad es que hasta ahora n
VARIEDADES
DEAGAVE
YABOCAMIENTO
EFECTODEL
TERRUÑO
BALÁ ESPADÍN AZUL CHATO VERDE
artir de hijuelos, semillas o bulbillos ﬂorales en
n los cultivos industrializados, particularmente
tenidos por micropropagación. Los agaves tar-
especie, en madurar. En el caso de la producción
da al alcanzar su madurez, limpiada y jimada en
s silvestres o cultivados con técnicas orgánicas
más industrializadas, se valora el predio y se jima
os agricolamente con fertilizantes, herbicidas y
tales inevitables.

B ROASTING
Objective: Obtain fermentable sugars - mainly fructose- through a
thermal breakdown of the sugars in the Agave plant. Many flavor
rich compounds are formed during the caramelization reactions in
this step.
‣ Cooking of agave piñas can be achieved using different technologies - pit oven, brick oven,
autoclave, diffuser. Also, the source of heat can be direct - wood heat - or indirect - steam.
‣ The speed and temperature applied during cooking have a great influence in the final result in terms
of complexity of flavors. The slower and lower temperature used, the larger the number of chemical
compounds generated during the process - The Millard Reaction.
> GROUND OR EARTH OVEN:
(Artisanal and Pre-Hispanic) The soil is excavated and a bonfire is made
in the pit to warm the volcanic stones inside. Once the required tempera-
ture is reached, the agave hearts (or piñas) whole or in pieces, are put
inside. The oven is then covered with fiber mats and sealed with earth
and stones for between three and five days after the agave is cooked.
This is the typical practice in areas of central and southern Mexico.
> MASONRY OVEN:
(Artisanal and colonial) A brick, stone or adobe (clay) oven is fueled by fire-
wood to produce direct heat or steam (with a boiler) where agaves are cooked.
Thecookingofagavecanbedoneusingdifferenttechnologiesandaimstoturn
the sugars in the piña into fermentable sugars. The way the agave is cooked
has a significant effect on the flavor and quality of a mezcal. In general, the
slower the cooking, the more complex the compounds and flavors obtained.
AUTOCLAVE
GROUNDOVEN MASONRYOVEN
DIFFUSER
42
> GROUND OR EARTH OVEN:
(Artisanal and Pre-Hispanic) The soil is excavated and a bonfire is made
in the pit to warm the volcanic stones inside. Once the required tempera-
ture is reached, the agave hearts (or piñas) whole or in pieces, are put
inside. The oven is then covered with fiber mats and sealed with earth
and stones for between three and five days after the agave is cooked.
This is the typical practice in areas of central and southern Mexico.
> MASONRY OVEN:
(Artisanal and colonial) A brick, stone or adobe (clay) oven is fueled by fire-
wood to produce direct heat or steam (with a boiler) where agaves are cooked.
The oven is filled with the agave piñas and the cooking takes two to five days.
AUTOCLAVE
GROUNDOVEN MASONRYOVEN
DIFFUSER
Anatomy_26June2013_v8b.indd 42 7/1/13 11:29 AM

HORNODEPISO DEMAMPOSTERÍA AUTOCLAVE DIFUSOR
El cocimiento de maguey puede hacerse usando tecnologías distintas y tiene como obje-
tivo que los azucares de la piña se transformen en azucares fermentables. La manera en
que este cocimiento sucede tiene un enorme efecto en la calidad del mezcal. En general
entre más lentamente se realice la cocción más complejidad de compuestos y sabores se
obtiene.

DEMAMPOSTERÍA AUTOCLAVE DIFUSOR
aguey puede hacerse usando tecnologías distintas y tiene como obje-
es de la piña se transformen en azucares fermentables. La manera en
o sucede tiene un enorme efecto en la calidad del mezcal. En general
nte se realice la cocción más complejidad de compuestos y sabores se

DIFUSOR
ntas y tiene como obje-
entables. La manera en
del mezcal. En general
ompuestos y sabores se

C Milling
Objective: Extract the cooked juice and separate the fibers from the piñas. In more industrialized
production facilities the fiber is separated from the juice prior to fermentation.
TAHONA OR STONE MILL: uses animal force. A big stone wheel crush the cooked in a trapiche
‣ PRESS : Very low efficiencies. Involves pressing the piñas using a mechanical press of any sort.
‣ EMBOLO AND MANUAL CRUSHING: involves crushing the piñas manually. Mainly used in Michoacán, Puebla y
Guerrero.
‣ MECHANIZED MILLING: typical rolling mills used in th etequila industry. The system crush, press and wash sugars out
of the fiber to obtain a juice rich in sugars. Fibers are then discarded.
‣ DIFUSER : the uncooked piñas are crushed and steam is used to get the raw juice from the plant. It is highly efficient
and hundred of tons can be processed per day. The raw juice is the hydrolyzed using high temperatures and acids.
44
C . G R I N D I N G
This is the process of tearing the fibers of cooked agave piñas to extract
their juices. Some separate the bagasse (or fiber) from the juice of piñas,
some do not.
TAHONA
PRESS
MORTAR
MECHANICALMILL
> T A H O N A O R S T O N E M I L L :
(Artisanal) Using animal or human power, the cooked piñas are pressed in a
wheel mill by turning a large stone pulled by force. The result is a mixture of
fiber and juice that serves to prepare the fermentation broth.
> P R E S S E S :
(Artisanal) This technology is rarely used because it is not as efficient. It
consists of the mechanical squeezing of the piñas.
44
TAHONA
PRESS
MORTAR
MECHANICALMILL
> T A H O N A O R S T O N E M I L L :
(Artisanal) Using animal or human power, the cooked piñas are pressed in a
wheel mill by turning a large stone pulled by force. The result is a mixture of
fiber and juice that serves to prepare the fermentation broth.
> P R E S S E S :
(Artisanal) This technology is rarely used because it is not as efficient. It
consists of the mechanical squeezing of the piñas.

Es el proceso desgarrar las fibras de las piñas para extraer su jugo cocido. Algunos sepa-
ran el bagazo o fibra de las piñas del jugo y otros no.
> TAHONA O MOLINO DE PIEDRA: Artesanal; usa fuerza animal y algunas veces
humana. Se prensan las piñas cocidas en un trapiche haciendo girar una gran rueda de
piedra o cemento sobre estas. El resultado es una mezcla de fibra y jugo que sirve para
elaborar el mosto de fermentación.
> PRENSAS: Artesanal; Es una tecnología poco usada ya que no es tan eficientes.
Consiste en exprimir el jugo de las piñas presionandolas.
> EMBOLOS Y MACHACADO MANUAL: Artesanal; consiste en golpear con bas-
tones, machetes o émbolos las piñas para obtener jugo y fibra. Se utilizan principalmente
en algunos pueblos de Michoacán, Puebla y Guerrero.
c.MOLIENDA
TAHONA MORTERO PRENSA MOLINOMECÁNICO

rar las fibras de las piñas para extraer su jugo cocido. Algunos sepa-
de las piñas del jugo y otros no.
LINO DE PIEDRA: Artesanal; usa fuerza animal y algunas veces
las piñas cocidas en un trapiche haciendo girar una gran rueda de
bre estas. El resultado es una mezcla de fibra y jugo que sirve para
fermentación.
esanal; Es una tecnología poco usada ya que no es tan eficientes.
el jugo de las piñas presionandolas.
ACHACADO MANUAL: Artesanal; consiste en golpear con bas-
mbolos las piñas para obtener jugo y fibra. Se utilizan principalmente
de Michoacán, Puebla y Guerrero.
MORTERO PRENSA MOLINOMECÁNICO

D FERMENTATION
Objetive: To convert sugars into alcohol. Great number com compounds
are created and concentrated in the final must.
‣ The are a wide number of materials being used in the containers (wood, copper, steel, clay,
cement, leather, plastics) what confers flavor to the product and dramatically change variable
such as heat transfer, sustain or not microbe consortium, etc.
‣ The sizes and shapes also are divers affecting the oxigen and temperature of fermentation.
‣ Fermentation can be totally wild, partially wild - where yeast is inoculated - or totally
aseptic. Depending on the kind of fermentation consorcium and the conditions the result may be
signifiatly different.
‣ Time of fermentation, can go from 24 hrs to up to 7 weeks.
‣ Nutrients may or may no be added
46
D. FERMENTATION
Agave juices (and sometimes their fibers) are placed in tubs. Then, water and
yeasts are added. Microorganisms transform juices into fermented musts.
> FERMENTATION VATS:
Fermentation tubs come in various sizes and materials that affect the final
taste of the product. Smaller sized vats are usually between 200 to 500 liters
and often made of clay, cement or cowhide. The typical fermentation vat used
in Oaxaca is between 1,000 to 2,000 liters and made of wood, normally pine
WOOD
CEMENT
METAL
LEATHER
46
Agave juices (and sometimes their fibers) are placed in tubs. Then, water and
yeasts are added. Microorganisms transform juices into fermented musts.
> FERMENTATION VATS:
Fermentation tubs come in various sizes and materials that affect the final
taste of the product. Smaller sized vats are usually between 200 to 500 liters
and often made of clay, cement or cowhide. The typical fermentation vat used
in Oaxaca is between 1,000 to 2,000 liters and made of wood, normally pine
WOOD
CEMENT
METAL
LEATHER

D.FERMENTACIÓN
MADERA METAL CEMENTO CUERO
Los jugos y/o ﬁbras del agave se ponen en tinas, se le suele agregar agua, levaduras y
microorganismos transforman los jugos en mosto fermentado.
>TINAS DE FERMENTACIÓN: Las tinas de fermentación pueden ser de varios tama-
ños y materiales lo que afecta el sabor ﬁnal del producto. En cuestión de tamaños las más
pequeñas suelen ser de entre 200 a 500 litros, hechas muchas veces de barro, cemento
o cueros de res. La típica tina de fermentación en Oaxaca va de 1000 y 2000 litros, hecha
de pino o de roble. Lamentablemente, también se usan contenedores de plástico para
fermentar que pueden ir de los 1,000 hasta los 5,000 lts. A nivel más industrial las tinas
de fermentación pueden ir desde los 5,000 lts hasta los 50,000 lts siendo estos general-
mente de acero inoxidable.
>LEVADURAS, MICROORGANISMOS Y ADITIVOS: La fermentación de los ju-
gos se lleva a cabo principalmente por microorganismos llamados levaduras. Otros organ-
ismos como las bacterias contribuyen de forma muy importante al sabor del mezcal. La
mayoría de los mezcales artesanales esperan a que las levaduras naturales y las bacterias
fermenten poco a poco sus mostos y jugos. Otro usan levaduras seleccionadas o aisladas,
ya que estas ofrecen generalmente productos más consistentes. Además de las levadu-
ras, algunos productores usan sales nutritivas para acelerar el proceso de fermentación.

E DISTILATION
Objective: Trap and concentarte the alchocols and volatile
compounds from the most.Heads, heart and tails
‣ Basic principle - differential boiling points
‣ Can be used stills made from different copper or steel. but other structures made from clay,
stone or cane can be used too.
‣ Mezcal is distilled at least twice
48
Fermented musts already contain a huge amount of flavorsome compounds
that must go through at least two stages of distillation in the process of cre-
ating mezcal. The first distillation produces the ordinary and the second dis-
tillation produces the mezcal. For the distillation, mezcaleros use:
> S T I L L S :
Stills can be of different sizes and materials, but they generally operate on
the same principles. The juice is loaded with or without fiber, then heated
using wood, gas or steam to start the evaporation process. A cap on the back
(called the “overburden”) captures fumes and leads to a serpentine, which is
generally immersed in a water tank or in contact with a cooling system. This
is where the fumes cool and condense into fluid again. The stills are usually
made of metals (like copper or steel), but you may find some traditional stills
made of mud, stone or even reeds. The product is usually distilled at least
twice, and it is very important to know where to “cut,” or select those pleas-
ant distillates from the unpleasant ones.
COPPER
CLAY
STAINLESSSTEEL
COLUMNS
48
> STILLS:
Stills can be of different sizes and materials, but they generally operate on
the same principles. The juice is loaded with or without fiber, then heated
using wood, gas or steam to start the evaporation process. A cap on the back
(called the “overburden”) captures fumes and leads to a serpentine, which is
generally immersed in a water tank or in contact with a cooling system. This
is where the fumes cool and condense into fluid again. The stills are usually
made of metals (like copper or steel), but you may find some traditional stills
made of mud, stone or even reeds. The product is usually distilled at least
twice, and it is very important to know where to “cut,” or select those pleas-
ant distillates from the unpleasant ones.
COPPER
CLAY
STAINLESSSTEEL
COLUMNS

En la destilación los mostos fermentados, que contiene ya alcohol y una enorme cantidad
de otros compuestos sabrosos que integrarán el mezcal son sometidos a un proceso de
calentamiento y condensación en al menos dos etapas. En la primera se obtiene el ordi-
nario y en la segundo se consigue el mezcal ﬁnal. Para la destilación se utilizan:
>ALAMBIQUES: Pueden ser de tamaños y materiales distintos, aunque en general
operan todos bajo el mismo principio: se carga el mosto con o sin ﬁbra, para después
calentarlos usando leña, gas o vapor de agua y conseguir que los compuestos empiecen a
evaporar. Una tapa en su parte posterior llamada montera captura los vapores y los lleva a
un serpenti - generalemente inmerso en un tanque de agua o en contacto con un sistema
de enfriamiento - donde se enfrían y condensan volviéndolos líquidos nuevamente. Los
alambiques suelen ser de metales como el cobre y el acero, pero artesanlemente es po-
sible encontrarlos de barro, piedra y hasta carrizo. El producto suele ser destilado al me-
nos dos veces y es muy importante saber dónde “cortar” o seleccionar aquellos destilados
agradables de los desagradables.
>COLUMNAS DE DESTILACIÓN: Son grandes columnas donde se hace interactuar
vapor de agua a altas temperaturas con mosto, produciendo una evaporación instantánea
de este. Debido al peso y densidad de los compuestos evaporados en la columna, es po-
COBRE ACERO BARRO COLUMNADE
DESTILACIÓN

F FURTHER OPTIONAL PROCESSES
Objective: To perform further flavoring processes in the
mezcal joven
• Mezcal joven is typaclly obtain between 45 to 52 ABV
• Hydrating it is optional
• It can be subjected to:
✴ Aging
✴ Flavoring (Ej. worm, fruits, herbs, artificial flavors)
✴ Coloring
✴ Blending
> DE ABOCAMIENTO/SABORIZACIÓN PO
Procesos posteriores como el añejamiento, la adi
bas y/o frutas con o sin destilación posterior -com
clásicos de mezcales modificados después de su o
mente y por desgracia, la ley permite el uso de sabo
y tradición del mezcal y que se agregan con el fin de
todo en productos baratos y/o de alto volúmen.
Grasas, acetona,
frutas maduras,
mango, plátano.
Chocolate, chile,
fogata.
M
ave
> DE ABOCAMIENTO/SAB
Procesos posteriores como el a
bas y/o frutas con o sin destilac
clásicos de mezcales modificad
mente y por desgracia, la ley perm
y tradición del mezcal y que se ag
todo en productos baratos y/o de
Grasas, acetona,
frutas maduras,
mango, plátano.
Chocola
fo
> DE ABOCAMIENTO/SABORIZACIÓN POSTERIOR :
Procesos posteriores como el añejamiento, la adición de insectos, la maceración
bas y/o frutas con o sin destilación posterior -como el mezcal de pechuga- , son e
clásicos de mezcales modificados después de su obtención como producto joven. Ad
mente y por desgracia, la ley permite el uso de saborizantes totalmente ajenos a la nat
y tradición del mezcal y que se agregan con el fin de enmascarar o intensificar sabore
> DE ABOCAMIENTO/SABORIZACIÓN POSTERIOR :
Procesos posteriores como el añejamiento, la adición de insectos, la maceración de
bas y/o frutas con o sin destilación posterior -como el mezcal de pechuga- , son ejem
clásicos de mezcales modificados después de su obtención como producto joven. Adici
mente y por desgracia, la ley permite el uso de saborizantes totalmente ajenos a la natur
y tradición del mezcal y que se agregan con el fin de enmascarar o intensificar sabores,
Grasas, acetona,
frutas maduras,
mango, plátano.
Chocolate, chile,
fogata.
Miel, almendra,
avellana, vainilla,
caramelo.
Sabores cítr
menta, an
amargo
50
or nanche. Others, inspired by European processes, use barrels for aging.
Adding worms and insects, like scorpions, also has an effect on the taste,
and is not necessarily always positive. It is typically a response to marketing
rather than quality. In industrial products, it is not uncommon to use artificial
flavorings and additives.
AGING
HERBS
FRUIT
ARTIFICIAL
FLAVORING
50
AGING
HERBS
FRUIT
ARTIFICIAL
FLAVORING

Typically produced in Oaxaca and Guerrero
High flavor complexity with well-defined notes of smoke,
ripened fruit and acetone (petrol-like notes)
FERMENTATION
SMOKE
COOKED
AGAVE
GREEN
AGAVE
AGAVE
COOKING
GRINDING
FERMENTATION
DISTILLATION
Mainly espadín
and other wild and
semi-cultivated varietie
(Tobalá, Madrecuishe,
Tepestate, etc.)
Tahona mill pulled by a
mule or similar animal
Wood vats, fibers are
included during
fermentation
Copper still,
double distillation
Ground oven, heated
using pine or oak wood
ARTISANALMEZCALFROMPALENQUE
Typically produced in Oaxaca and Guerrero
High flavor complexity with well-defined notes of smoke,
ripened fruit and acetone (petrol-like notes)
FERMENTATION
SMOKE
COOKED
AGAVE
GREEN
AGAVE
AGAVE
COOKING
GRINDING
FERMENTATION
DISTILLATION
Mainly espadín
and other wild and
semi-cultivated varieties
(Tobalá, Madrecuishe,
Tepestate, etc.)
Tahona mill pulled by a
mule or similar animal
Wood vats, fibers are
included during
fermentation
Copper still,
double distillation
Ground oven, heated
using pine or oak wood

ARTISANALMEZCALFROMHACIENDA
Typically produced in San Luis Potosí,
Jalisco and Zacatecas
Bold flavor with predominant cooked agave notes like caramel
followed by fermentation and green agave notes.
AGAVE
COOKING
GRINDING
FERMENTATION
DISTILLATION
Blue agave (for tequila),
espadín or other varietie
of A. angustifolia,
wild Salmiana
Mechanical mill
Metal or cement
fermentation vats
Steel or copper stills,
double distillation
Brick / Masonry oven
FERMENTATION
COOKEDAGAVE
GREEN
AGAVE
* In this type of mezcal, smoke cannot be found
as the cooking process involves steam
Typically produced in San Luis Potosí,
Jalisco and Zacatecas
old flavor with predominant cooked agave notes like caramel
followed by fermentation and green agave notes.
AGAVE
COOKING
GRINDING
FERMENTATION
DISTILLATION
Blue agave (for tequila),
espadín or other varieties
of A. angustifolia,
wild Salmiana
Mechanical mill
Metal or cement
fermentation vats
Steel or copper stills,
double distillation
Brick / Masonry oven
FERMENTATION
COOKEDAGAVE
GREEN
AGAVE
* In this type of mezcal, smoke cannot be found
as the cooking process involves steam

INDUSTRIALMEZCAL
Uses diffuser and
column distillation technology
Poor expression in terms of complexity and intensity.
It is common to use flavor agents
and a secondary source of sugar (Mixto)
FERMENTATION
DISTILLATION
ADDED
PROCESSES
Monocultivated blue agave
or espadín. Sometimes
combined with other
sources of sugar (Mixto)
Large stainless steel vats
between 20 and
100 kiloliters.
Column distillation
performed in one or
two steps
Added flavors are commonly
used. They can be subjected
to aging.
Juices are first extracted
with a diffuser and
then cooked using a
high-pressure autoclave.
*In this type of mezcal, smoke cannot be found
as the cooking process involves pressurized steam
FERMEN-
TATIONON
GREEN
AGAVE
N
COOKED
AGAVE
COOKING
ANDJUICE
EXTRACTION
RAWMATERIAL
Uses diffuser and
column distillation technology
Poor expression in terms of complexity and intensity.
It is common to use flavor agents
and a secondary source of sugar (Mixto)
FERMENTATION
DISTILLATION
ADDED
PROCESSES
Monocultivated blue agave
or espadín. Sometimes
combined with other
sources of sugar (Mixto)
Large stainless steel vats
between 20 and
100 kiloliters.
Column distillation
performed in one or
two steps
Added flavors are commonly
used. They can be subjected
to aging.
Juices are first extracted
with a diffuser and
then cooked using a
high-pressure autoclave.
*In this type of mezcal, smoke cannot be found
as the cooking process involves pressurized steam
FERMEN-
TATIONON
GREEN
AGAVE
N
COOKED
AGAVE
COOKING
ANDJUICE
EXTRACTION
RAWMATERIAL

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Anatomy of Agave-Seductive Succulent Presentation