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Photographing the Night Sky
Richland Public Library Lecture
November 15, 2012

Scott Butner
http://www.scottbutner.com/
What I’ll Cover
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•

Introduction
What you’ll need to take night sky photos
Some camera basics
Shoot the moon!
Shooting the stars and the milky way
Catch a falling star
The northern lights? In Washington?!
Useful resources
Introduction
What you’ll need
Essential equipment
• A camera with the following:
– Manual control
– A [wide angle] lens of f/2.8 or faster
– Usable ISO of 1600 or higher
– Remote release or self timer
• Tripod
• Flashlight
• Backup flashlight
• Appropriate clothing
Scouting locations
• Scouting locations ahead of time is VERY
important
– Finding safe parking/ingress/egress and
noting hazards
– Finding good terrestrial objects
– Noting power lines, road signs, other easy to
miss visual impediments

• Take notes! Note mileposts, landmarks,
etc.
Finding dark skies
• Dark skies are increasingly hard to find in
our region
– Typically need 30-40 miles from medium
sized metro area to find reasonably dark skies
– Clouds, dust, haze will exacerbate this
– Localized light sources can often be
incorporated or obscured
A few words about safety
• Think ahead for
safety!
– Park well off the road
– Scout ahead if
possible
– Wear “safe shoes”
– Always have a
backup light
– Be aware of your
surroundings
Some camera basics
The Bucket of Light
ISO

Shutter
speed

f/stop
ISO – How big is the bucket?
• ISO is a measure of
how sensitive the
camera is to light
• The higher the
number, the less light
is needed
• But high ISO ratings
also generate more
noise (grain)

ISO
200

ISO
400

ISO
3200
f/stop – How big is the hose?
• f/stop is a ratio
between the lens
opening and focal
length
• The smaller the
number, the more light
it allows in
• For most night
photography, wide
f/stops (f/1.4-f/2.8) are
essential

Typical f/stops: f/2.0
f/2.8
f/4
f/5.6
f/8
f/11
f/16
f/22
Shutter speed –
How long does the water flow?
• Shutter speeds tell us
how long the camera
allows light to hit the
film/sensor
• MOST night
photography requires
long exposures (> 1
second)
• Photographing the
moon is a big exception
Putting them together
• Different combinations of ISO, f/stop and
shutter speed produce the same amount
of light – but not necessarily the same
results
– 3200 ISO @ f/4, 30 sec
– 3200 ISO @ f/1.4, 4 sec
– 1600 ISO @ f/2.8, 30 sec
Some “typical” exposures
• Milky way, rich star field
– 1600 ISO, 30 sec @ f/2

• Bright stars, planets
– 1600 ISO, 15 sec @ f/2-2.8

• Moon
– Full: 200 ISO, 1/500 sec @ f/8
– Half 200 ISO, 1/125 sec @ f/8
– Crescent (highly variable!)

• Lightning
– 400 ISO, f/5.6-8, timed for flash*
Shooting the moon
Tips for shooting the moon
• The moon is both the easiest and the
toughest of night sky objects to shoot
– Highly variable (but predictable) brightness
– Very narrow range of opportunities to capture
“optimal” shots
– Dramatic “big moon” photos require big
lenses
Shooting the stars and milky way
General night sky tips
• In general, find the darkest, “cleanest”
skies you can – not easy these days!
• Be aware of moon phases. Too much
moonlight hurts
• Clouds can be good picture elements but
amplify any light issues
• Try to include some foreground elements
for scale, dramatic relief
Tips for photographing stars
• Modern cameras can disclose detail you’d never
see with naked eye
• Find the sweet spot for getting point-like stars
– Very wide or fisheye lenses – 30 sec
– Moderate wide angle – 20 sec
– “normal” lens – 10 sec or less
– Apparent motion greater as you move away
from celestial pole
Making star trails
Making star trails
• Star trails can provide a dramatic way of
showing the earth’s motion
• But long exposures demand a very dark sky!
– 7-10 minutes is about the shortest exposure
that makes sense
– Effect varies with focal length and distance
from celestial pole
• StarTrails software can greatly simplify the job!
Photographing meteors
Tips for shooting meteors
• Frequency of meteors is less important
than brightness/duration
– Lyrids, Taurids both known for producing
bright fireballs

• Use the highest ISO, widest f/stop you can
muster
• Be sure field of view extends 20-30
degrees beyond the radiant
• Best strategy is to use lots of moderately
long exposures and hope for the best
Key meteor showers
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•

Orionids – THIS WEEKEND!
Geminids – December 13-14, 2012
Quadrantids – January 3-4, 2013
Lyrids – April 21-22, 2013 *
Perseids – August 12-13, 2013 *
Orionids – October 20-24, 2013
Taurids -- Nov 4-6, 2013
Leonids – November 17-18, 2013 *
Northern Lights
Tips for northern lights (aurora)
• Northern lights are not common in our
area, but do occur several times/year
• Usually prefaced by 24-48 hours of
warning
• Require a very dark northern horizon
• Exposures comparable to that for milky
way (e.g., 20-30 sec, f/2.8, ISO 3200)
• Can disclose detail not seen by naked eye
Next year’s comet
• Comet ISON due to
be visible in late 2013
• Projected to be
brighter than full
moon, visible during
daylight hours
• Potential for a once in
a lifetime sight!
Photo of Comet Lovejoy by Luis Argerich
Used under Creative Commons
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lrargerich/7394541294/
Some handy resources
• Handy apps
– TPE (The Photographer’s Ephemeris)
– Moon Phase calendar
– StarTrails.exe

• Web sites
–
–
–
–

http://www.wunderground.com/radar/radblast.asp?ID=PDT&type=N0R
http://www.gi.alaska.edu/AuroraForecast/NorthAmerica/2012/11/13
http://www.skyandtelescope.com/observing/ataglance
http://www.spaceweather.com/
For more pictures….

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Photographing The Night Sky

  • 1. Photographing the Night Sky Richland Public Library Lecture November 15, 2012 Scott Butner http://www.scottbutner.com/
  • 2. What I’ll Cover • • • • • • • • Introduction What you’ll need to take night sky photos Some camera basics Shoot the moon! Shooting the stars and the milky way Catch a falling star The northern lights? In Washington?! Useful resources
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  • 10. Essential equipment • A camera with the following: – Manual control – A [wide angle] lens of f/2.8 or faster – Usable ISO of 1600 or higher – Remote release or self timer • Tripod • Flashlight • Backup flashlight • Appropriate clothing
  • 11. Scouting locations • Scouting locations ahead of time is VERY important – Finding safe parking/ingress/egress and noting hazards – Finding good terrestrial objects – Noting power lines, road signs, other easy to miss visual impediments • Take notes! Note mileposts, landmarks, etc.
  • 12. Finding dark skies • Dark skies are increasingly hard to find in our region – Typically need 30-40 miles from medium sized metro area to find reasonably dark skies – Clouds, dust, haze will exacerbate this – Localized light sources can often be incorporated or obscured
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  • 14. A few words about safety • Think ahead for safety! – Park well off the road – Scout ahead if possible – Wear “safe shoes” – Always have a backup light – Be aware of your surroundings
  • 16. The Bucket of Light ISO Shutter speed f/stop
  • 17. ISO – How big is the bucket? • ISO is a measure of how sensitive the camera is to light • The higher the number, the less light is needed • But high ISO ratings also generate more noise (grain) ISO 200 ISO 400 ISO 3200
  • 18. f/stop – How big is the hose? • f/stop is a ratio between the lens opening and focal length • The smaller the number, the more light it allows in • For most night photography, wide f/stops (f/1.4-f/2.8) are essential Typical f/stops: f/2.0 f/2.8 f/4 f/5.6 f/8 f/11 f/16 f/22
  • 19. Shutter speed – How long does the water flow? • Shutter speeds tell us how long the camera allows light to hit the film/sensor • MOST night photography requires long exposures (> 1 second) • Photographing the moon is a big exception
  • 20. Putting them together • Different combinations of ISO, f/stop and shutter speed produce the same amount of light – but not necessarily the same results – 3200 ISO @ f/4, 30 sec – 3200 ISO @ f/1.4, 4 sec – 1600 ISO @ f/2.8, 30 sec
  • 21. Some “typical” exposures • Milky way, rich star field – 1600 ISO, 30 sec @ f/2 • Bright stars, planets – 1600 ISO, 15 sec @ f/2-2.8 • Moon – Full: 200 ISO, 1/500 sec @ f/8 – Half 200 ISO, 1/125 sec @ f/8 – Crescent (highly variable!) • Lightning – 400 ISO, f/5.6-8, timed for flash*
  • 23. Tips for shooting the moon • The moon is both the easiest and the toughest of night sky objects to shoot – Highly variable (but predictable) brightness – Very narrow range of opportunities to capture “optimal” shots – Dramatic “big moon” photos require big lenses
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  • 29. Shooting the stars and milky way
  • 30. General night sky tips • In general, find the darkest, “cleanest” skies you can – not easy these days! • Be aware of moon phases. Too much moonlight hurts • Clouds can be good picture elements but amplify any light issues • Try to include some foreground elements for scale, dramatic relief
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  • 32. Tips for photographing stars • Modern cameras can disclose detail you’d never see with naked eye • Find the sweet spot for getting point-like stars – Very wide or fisheye lenses – 30 sec – Moderate wide angle – 20 sec – “normal” lens – 10 sec or less – Apparent motion greater as you move away from celestial pole
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  • 37. Making star trails • Star trails can provide a dramatic way of showing the earth’s motion • But long exposures demand a very dark sky! – 7-10 minutes is about the shortest exposure that makes sense – Effect varies with focal length and distance from celestial pole • StarTrails software can greatly simplify the job!
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  • 40. Tips for shooting meteors • Frequency of meteors is less important than brightness/duration – Lyrids, Taurids both known for producing bright fireballs • Use the highest ISO, widest f/stop you can muster • Be sure field of view extends 20-30 degrees beyond the radiant • Best strategy is to use lots of moderately long exposures and hope for the best
  • 41. Key meteor showers • • • • • • • • Orionids – THIS WEEKEND! Geminids – December 13-14, 2012 Quadrantids – January 3-4, 2013 Lyrids – April 21-22, 2013 * Perseids – August 12-13, 2013 * Orionids – October 20-24, 2013 Taurids -- Nov 4-6, 2013 Leonids – November 17-18, 2013 *
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  • 45. Tips for northern lights (aurora) • Northern lights are not common in our area, but do occur several times/year • Usually prefaced by 24-48 hours of warning • Require a very dark northern horizon • Exposures comparable to that for milky way (e.g., 20-30 sec, f/2.8, ISO 3200) • Can disclose detail not seen by naked eye
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  • 48. Next year’s comet • Comet ISON due to be visible in late 2013 • Projected to be brighter than full moon, visible during daylight hours • Potential for a once in a lifetime sight! Photo of Comet Lovejoy by Luis Argerich Used under Creative Commons http://www.flickr.com/photos/lrargerich/7394541294/
  • 49. Some handy resources • Handy apps – TPE (The Photographer’s Ephemeris) – Moon Phase calendar – StarTrails.exe • Web sites – – – – http://www.wunderground.com/radar/radblast.asp?ID=PDT&type=N0R http://www.gi.alaska.edu/AuroraForecast/NorthAmerica/2012/11/13 http://www.skyandtelescope.com/observing/ataglance http://www.spaceweather.com/
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