zero waste in textile , sustainability of fabrics , zero waste designing in fashion designing

1. Zero waste
designing in
textile
Priyanka lamba
Assistant professor
Sgt university

2. What is zero waste designing?
The zero waste design is a sustainable way of
manufacturing products ( carrico and kim 2014)
Or
Zero waste is a design technique that eliminates
textile waste at design stage.
Reference : karunarante,P.V.M(2018). ‘The cloth was the clothing’:zero waste fashion tradition sustainability A
Discussion paper. Retrieved from https://www.semanticscholar.org/paper/The-cloth-was-the-clothing%3A-zero-
waste-fashion-and-Karunaratne/ee428dbd7c17ad263f9f6f57fdae5ca006d7b76c
Image:
Daniel
Silverstein

3. Need of zero waste designing
Approximately 15 of textile intended for clothing ends up on the cutting
room floor.
When textiles are wasted so too are the resources , both natural and human
labour resources, which were invested and imbedded into the textiles. It is
vital to address the source of the problem by maximising the use of textile
material and by minimising the wastage. Adopting a zero waste design
approach reduces textile waste and the demand on natural resources .

4. Image: Angus Tsui Yat Sing
Angus Tsui Yat Sing , The Eco chic people’s Award Hong
Kong-2012 Winner, created this zero waste garment by
pleating rectangular textile waste scraps
Image : Hellen Van Rees
Hellen Van Rees sourced leftover
yarns from factories and then
woven the yarns in the shape of
the garment. She refused
everything together into shape of
the garment so in the final
garment, there was no seama, cut-
off or leftovers
Reference: The Eco chichen design award, zero –waste design technique. Retrieved
from https://www.modopactua.com/pdf/LEARN_Zero-waste_ENG.pdf

5. Essential properties of zero waste
design
Zero waste is not about recycling and derivation from landfills, but about
restructuring production and distribution system to achieve some benefits
1. Saving cost
2. Expanding creative and aesthetic values Image :
Zero
waste
dress by
mark liu
(2007)
Reference: Kumari,P .6June2017. Bhagatphool singh Mhila
vishwavidyalaya Khanpur Kalam , sonipat , India. Retrieved from
http://www.ijaresm.com/uploaded_files/document_file/Pooja_Kum
ari._Am7v.pdf

6. Textile waste
Textile
waste
Production
waste
Preconsumer
waste
Postconsumer
waste

7. More than 15 million tons of used textile waste is generated each year in the
United States, and the amount has doubled over the last 20 years. In 2014, over
16 million tons of textile waste was generated, according to the Environmental
Protection Agency.
Reference :Enis,I.Y , Sergin,H and Ozturk,M.K(2019) . Risk and management of textile waste. The Impact of
embedded multinational enterprises. Research journal. Retrieved from
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/330882045_Risks_and_Management_of_Textile_Waste_The_Impa
ct_of_Embedded_Multinational_Enterprises

8. Zero waste design
1. Innovative Design
2. Designers Embrace Sustainability
3. Zero Waste Pattern Cutting (ZWPC) Approaches
4. Zero Waste Pattern Cutting (ZWPC) Limitations
Zero-waste is a design process which intends to eliminate fabric waste at the
design conceptualization stage itself. Pattern cutting plays a vital role in this design
process. Unlike in the case of conventional garment manufacturing, the wastage
of fabric during the pattern cutting process is quite meticulously taken into
consideration at the designing phase itself.

9. Zero-waste design finds its roots in longstanding practices of utilizing an entire
piece of cloth so that none of it ends up in disposal fields. In the current
scenario in the fashion industry, whenever sustainability is the preeminent
theme, ZWPC has emerged as a useful means to create a sustainable approach
to garment manufacturing.
Image : Johanna ho
Johanna ho cut textile waste into thin strip and then turned the
textile strips into yarn. She then knitted these textile waste yarn to
create to create these sweater . Which is shown in these image .
Reference : Gam,H.J and Banning,J.(2020) . Teaching sustaibilty in
fashion design courses through a zero waste design project. Clothing
and textile research journal. Retrieved from
https://www.semanticscholar.org/paper/Teaching-Sustainability-in-
Fashion-Design-Courses-a-Gam-
Banning/5c02bd298fbaee0d11cda329ac95364b209ffa17

10. Historical background of zero waste
designing
A zero waste design is a sustainable way of manufacturing products
(carrico and kim 2014) .It is a kind of design technique that removes the
waste of textile during designing. An approach to zero waste is not a new
concept( Saeidi and Wimberley 2017).
According to Rudofsky (1947), a traditional dresses such as the Greek ionic
chiton and Indian sari a length of cloth that is drapped and wrapped
around the body without being cut or stitched are the best examples of
zero waste design concepts.

11. Traditional boro
kimono
Greek chiton
Egyptian schenti, worn
by tutankhamun
Reference : karunarante,P.V.M(2018). ‘The cloth was the clothing’:zero waste fashion tradition sustainability
A Discussion paper. Retrieved from https://www.semanticscholar.org/paper/The-cloth-was-the-
clothing%3A-zero-waste-fashion-andKarunaratne/ee428dbd7c17ad263f9f6f57fdae5ca006d7b76c

12. Morden zero waste fashion design
In the first decade of the twenty –first century, zero waste fashion design
has become more widely adopted worldwide.
Image: zero waste
duffel coat by
david Telfer

13. Image: Dress by Mandeleine Vionnet(1919) from Kirke (1998) and Demornex (1991)

14. Image: Dress by Zandra Rhode
Reference: Rissanen,T.I.(2013). Zero-waste fashion design: a study at the intersection of
cloth , fashion design and pattern cutting ( Doctoral dissertation) . University of
technology , Sydney. Retrieved from
https://www.google.com/url?q=https://opus.lib.uts.edu.au/bitstream/10453/23384/6
/02whole.pdf&usg=AOvVaw1V_aEZJsJIl36U0k3C_T9Y

15. Zero waste fashion design and CAD
/CAM
A myriad constantly improving CAD/CAM system exist for fashion design
and pattern cutting , grading and marker planning and- making.
HollyMCQuillan use a combination of Adobe illustrator and manual
pattern cutting and draping method to create a zero waste design.
Similarly , Andrew Hague Create a zero waste shirt using Adobe Illustrator
is not intended for pattern cutting, rather, MCQuillon and Hague have
adopted existing software for a new use.

16. Zero waste fashion
design and
CAD/CAM
CAD and grading
zero waste garment
CAD/CAM marker
planning
CAD pattern
cutting and
fashion design

17. Image: Holly McQuillan’s design exploration
process using Adobe illustrator
Reference: Rissanen,T.I.(2013). Zero-waste
fashion design: a study at the intersection of
cloth , fashion design and pattern cutting
(Doctoral dissertation) . University of
technology , Sydney. Retrieved from
https://www.google.com/url?q=https://op
us.lib.uts.edu.au/bitstream/10453/23384/6/
02whole.pdf&usg=AOvVaw1V_aEZJsJIl36
U0k3C_T9Y

18. Sustainability issues not directly
addressed through practice
• A new approach to fashion publication: the need for visual
presentations of both garments and their patterns.
Image: Cape and pattern by Yeohlee Teng(1982), jacket and pattern by Holly McQuillan (2005)

19. • Zero waste fashion design – acknowledging a history of practice and
research
• Reflective and contemplative time in fashion design
Reference:Rissanen,T.I.(2013). Zero-waste
fashion design: a study at the intersection
of cloth , fashion design and pattern
cutting (Doctoral dissertation) . University
of technology , Sydney. Retrieved from
https://www.google.com/url?q=https://o
pus.lib.uts.edu.au/bitstream/10453/23384
/6/02whole.pdf&usg=AOvVaw1V_aEZJs
JIl36U0k3C_T9Y
Image:jacket 1005and pattern

20. Tips to zero waste design
1. Think before you cut and be inventive and experimental.
2. Construct a zero -waste pattern or drape the design .
3. Sew or heat-seal the textile together
4. Knit or you will only ever use the necessary amount of material
5. Be inspired by origami
Reference: The Eco chic design award, zero waste design technique. Retrieved from
https://www.modopactua.com/pdf/LEARN_Zero-waste_ENG.pdf

21. Zero waste fashion brands
Now a days there are many zero fashion brands like Tonle, palava, Dagny,
Swedish stockings, Raven + Lily , Aiayu , Bozena Jankowska , Rikya ,
Reformation and many more...
Designers taking initiatives for zero waste fashion designing. Most of the
brands are certified that they are zero waste fashion on their store .

22. Conclusion
Achieving an increased number of sustainable apparel products will require
new way of thinking about design. Zero-waste design is an option that
emphasis creative to create solution.Educating students about sustainable
design option influences positive changes in incorporating sustainable
practices. Developing a new sustainable fashion design course could be an
ideal solution of teaching sustainability to current fashion design students.

23. References
1 .Reference: Enis,I.Y , Sergin,H and Ozturk,M.K(2019) . Risk and management of textile waste. The Impact of embedded multinational
enterprises. Research journal. Retrieved from
https://www.google.com/url?q=https://www.researchgate.net/publication/330882045_Risks_and_Management_of_Textile_Waste_The_Impact_
of_Embedded_Multinational_Enterprises&usg=AOvVaw0pdaE9NPVp7L6KMORhqcWI
2 .Reference : Gam,H.J and Banning,J.(2020) . Teaching sustaibilty in fashion design courses through a zero waste design project. Clothing and
textile research journal. Retrieved from https://www.semanticscholar.org/paper/Teaching-Sustainability-in-Fashion-Design-Courses-a-Gam-
Banning/5c02bd298fbaee0d11cda329ac95364b209ffa17
3 .Reference : Karunarante,P.V.M(2018). ‘The cloth was the clothing’:zero waste fashion tradition sustainability A Discussion paper. Retrieved
from https://www.semanticscholar.org/paper/The-cloth-was-the-clothing%3A-zero-waste-fashion-and-
Karunaratne/ee428dbd7c17ad263f9f6f57fdae5ca006d7b7Refea
4 .Reference:Kumari,P. 6june2017. Bharat pool singh Mahila vishwavidyalaya khanpur kalam ,sonipat ,India. Retrieved
from http://www.ijaresm.com/uploaded_files/document_file/Pooja_Kumari._Am7v.pdf
5 . Reference : McQuillan, H.(2019) . Zero waste design thinking. The swedish school of textile, university of Boras.
Retrieved from https://www.diva-portal.org/smash/get/diva2:1316575/FULLTEXT02.pdf

24. 6 .Reference : Rissanen,T.I.(2013). Zero-waste fashion design: a study at the intersection of cloth , fashion design and pattern cutting
(Doctoral dissertation) . University of technology , Sydney. Retrieved from
https://www.google.com/url?q=https://opus.lib.uts.edu.au/bitstream/10453/23384/6/02whole.pdf&usg=AOvVaw1V_aEZJsJIl36U0
k3C_T9Y
7 .Reference : The Eco chic design award, zero waste design technique. Retrieved from
https://www.modopactua.com/pdf/LEARN_Zero-waste_ENG.pdf

25. Thank you