4. What we are discussing g today?
• Sustainability and sus
stainable manufacturing
• Why suddenly sustain
Why suddenly sustain
nability is under lime
nability is under lime
light?
g
• Sustainability rating sy
ystem
• Sustainability in textile chain
• Measuring sustainability in textile chain
• N l i l ti / B i h
New legislation / Buying‐houses requirement
i t
• Q/A
5. Sustainable developm
ment:
It is the developme t th t meets the needs
i th d l ent that t th d
of the present without compromising the
ability of future gen
nerations to meet their
own needs.
6. Renewable resource
6 of 42
A substance of economic valu th t
A bt f i lue that can be replaced or
b l d
replenished in the same amo
ount.
Some renewable resources h have essentially an endless
supply, such as solar energy, wind energy and geothermal
l h l i d d h l
pressure, while other resourcces are considered renewable
even though some time or ef
h h f
ffort must go into their
ff h
renewal, such as wood, oxyge en, leather and fish.
Most precious metals are con
nsidered renewable as well;
even though they are not nat
turally replaced, they can be
recycled because they are no
ot destroyed during their
extraction and use.
Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
7. Resource – rate of use
7 of 42
Fifty years ago, the world was
Fift th l
Consumption Discovery
consuming 4 billion barrrels of
oil per year and the aver
rage
discovery was around 30
discovery was around 30 billion
0 billion.
0
Today we consume 30 billion
Today we consume 30 billion
barrels per year and the
discovery rate is approacching 4
billion barrels of crude p
billion barrels of crude per year.
per year.
p
Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012 Asi
ia newspaper, 4 May 2005, quoted by Rob Hopkins, The Transition Handbook, p. 21
9. Sustainable manufactu
uring
9 of 42
Sustainable manufacturing is defined as the
bl f f h
creation of manufacture
creation of manufacture products that use
ed products that use
ed
processes that are;
I. non‐polluting,
II. conserve energy and natural resources, and
II conserve energy and natural resources and
are
III. economically sound a
and safe for
employees, communi i
l ities, and consumers.”
i d ”
Source: US Department of Commerce definition
Sustainable Manufacturing – National Council for Ad
dvanced Manufacturing (http://www.nacfam.org/ ) ‐ Definition
Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
10. Sustainability
10 of 42
Banned azo dyes
Formaldehyde
Liquid metal
CO2 Nickel
Hea
alth Pollution
etc.
water
Safe working
environment
i
Minimum wages
Working hours
Holidays
etc.
Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
11. Our dreams
Our dreams
Safe environment
Clean Air
Clean Air
Enough water &
Safe & healthy y
electricity
food
Schools for all
No GM food
No GM food children
hild
Enough food
Enough food
There is a growing awareness
s for Sustainability because
these dreams are in dan
nger – and we know it.
Our customers also know it.
12. Sustainable prac
Sustainable prac
ctice
Our commitment exxtends beyond our
company and customers.
company and customers
Our community and
y d environment are
important as well.
14. Main rating tools
14 of 42
U.K. and Europe
U.K. and Europe Americas Rest of the World
Rest of the World
BREEAM (inc Eco‐homes) LEED (U.S. & C
Canada) Green Star (Australia)
The Green Guide to U.S. DOE (U.S
S. Department of BEAM (Hong Kong
Specification Energy) Desig
gn Guide (U.S.)
Office Scorer WBDG (Whole Building
( LEED (China and India)
( )
Design Guide) (U.S.)
ENVEST HOK Sustaina
HOK Sustaina Design
able Design
able Greenmark
Guide (U.S.) (Singapore)
Sustainability Checklists ada (Canada
BREEAM Cana GBTool (South Africa)
(e.g.) SEEDA; BRE)
Environmental Impact Green Globes
s (U.S. &
Assessment (EIA)
Assessment (EIA) Canada)
Strategic Environmental
Assessment (SEA)
Sources: RICS (2007) and Green Globes (2009)
Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012 International Comparison of Sustainable Rating Tools
15. Textile industry
15 of 42
The textile industry i
Th t til i d t is one of the longest
f th l t
and most complicate
and most complicate industrial chains
ed industrial chains
ed
of the manufacturing g industry.
It involves actors from h
i l f m the agricultural,
i l l
chemical fibre, dyes & chemicals manuf.,
chemical fibre dyes & chemicals manuf
textile and apparel in
pp ndustries, retail and
,
services sector, and wwaste treatment.
Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
16. Textile processing – ma
ajor concern
16 of 42
• Mi i i
Minimise pollution:
ll ti
– air water and land
air, water and land
• Optimise resources
Optimise resources
– energy, water, chemicals
gy, ,
• Worker safety
• Consumer safety and
satisfaction
Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
17. Textile value chain
17 of 42
major ecological & soc
cial challenges
Water Effluent Energy Chemistry Land Society
Cotton cultivation
Spinning
Weaving/knitting
Wet processing
Garment making
Moderate Larrge Very large
No effect effect effe
ect effect
Source: Otto group 2006
Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
18. Sustainability through
h chemical selection
18 of 42
in textile manufacturi
ing
Measurement of all impact from chemical
usage
Air, water and soil/lan
Air water and soil/lannd
CO2 emission
Waste
Health
Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
19. Parameters – Sustainability mea
asurement in wet processing
19 of 42
CO2 VOC’s
NO2
SO2
CH4 UFP’s
s
Emission
Water
noise Product Textile
Dyes &
y
Chemicals
Solid waste
Land and
Textile fiber water
Liquid waste
q pollution
Energy
Energy
Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
20. Changing market dyna
amics
20 of 42
• Chi – textile invigorating plan 2009 – 20
China il i i i l 2009 2011
– Energy: 5 % reduction pe year for whole industry
Energy: 5 % reduction pe
er year for whole industry
er
– Water consumption lowe
ered by 7 % per year
– Wastewater discharge lowered by 7 % per year
• India – existing & foreseen water shortage
• Bangladesh – gas shortage are prevalent
• Pakistan shortage of electricity gas and water
Pakistan – shortage of electricity, gas and water
already exists
Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012 Source: Texworld, New York – Jan. 2012
21. Reducing water
g r consumption
p
and saving energy are among
g gy g
the highest priorities in the
textile industry today.
22. Cost analysis of a cotto
on t‐shirt
22 of 42
Fiber 70 %
Utilities 15 0 %
15 – 20 %
Labor 08 – 10 %
Dyes & Chemicals 03 – 05 %
Biggest potential for
Fiber
cost reduction
t d ti
Utilities
Labor
Dyes & Chemicals
Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
25. Measuring sustainability – textile manufacturing
25 of 42
Life cycle assessment of textile
Lif l t f t tiles
Carbon footprint
Water footprint
Resources utilization
Resources utilization
Water
Energy
Chemicals
Assessment of Social responsib bility
Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
26.
27. What is life cycle asses
ssment (LCA)?
27 of 42
• Enables estimation of cumula ative environmental impacts
results from all stages of the product life cycle
• A “cradle‐to‐grave” approach “for assessing the environmental
aspects and potential impacts associated with a product by;
p p p p y;
– compiling an inventory of relevant inputs and outputs of a
system
– evaluating the potential en nvironmental impacts associated
with these inputs and outp
with these inputs and outp puts
– interpreting the results of the inventory and impact phases
in relation to the objective
es of the study.” (ISO 14040)
Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
28. Textile product lifecycle
28 of 42
Life cycle of a T‐shirt
Supply Chain Footprint Product Footprint
Raw Electricity Production Product supply & Start of End of
Material transportation
t i product life
d lif product life
d lif
Growing Spinning Tra
ansportation Washing Disposal
cotton Knitting Drying
Dyeing Ironing
T‐Shirt
p
production
Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
29. Carbon footprint
29 of 42
Carbon footprint (CF) – also named Carbon
Carbon footprint (CF) also named Carbon
profile is the overall am
profile ‐ is the overall am
mount of carbon
mount of carbon
dioxide (CO2) and other greenhouse gas
(GHG) emissions (e.g. m methane, laughing gas,
etc.) associated with a p product*, along its
supply‐chain and someti
l h i d times including from
i l di f
use and end‐of‐life reco
use and end of life reco overy and disposal.
overy and disposal
Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
31. Solutions
31 of 42
I. The solutions are complex, and made more so by
I The solutions are complex, and made more so by
the lack of a definitive “sus
stainable” textile.
II. It is not as straightforward as “natural fibres are
better than synthetic
better than synthetic”.
III. When using natural fibres, the energy, water, and
chemical use in cultivation,
, production and
consumer use, washing and care needs to be
consumer use, washing and care needs to be
considered, as do issues su
uch as environmental
damage, and workers expo
damage and workers' expo osure to hazardous
osure to hazardous
chemicals, dust and fumes.
Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
32. Chemicals consumed b
by textile industry
32 of 42
25 %
75 %
25% worldwide chemical go
25% worldwide chemical go direct or indirect in textile
oes direct or indirect in textile
oes
industry
Chemical consumption Chemical consumption
synthetics textiles
synthetics textiles cotton textiles
cotton textiles
Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
110 ‐ 820 g/kg 350 ‐ 1,500 g/kg
33. Sustainable apparel ind
dex
33 of 42
Evaluate the impacts of t
the entire life cycle of
apparel products: mater
apparel products: materrials, manufacturing,
rials manufacturing
p
packaging, transportatio
g g p on, use, and end of Life.
Areas of consideration:
Areas of consideration:
Water use and quality;
Energy use and greenhouse gases;
Waste; chemicals and to i it
W t h i l d toxicity; and
d
Social and labor.
Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
