1. RAISING
Raising is a permanent mechanical finishing process that raises the surface fibers
of a fabric by means of passage over rapidly revolving cylinders covered with
metal points.
It is done either in wet stage(wool) or dry stage (cotton).
Objectives:
To obtain a lofty handle effect in fabric.
To obtain fleecy appearance.
To create pile effect.
To produce heavier surface.
To produce peach skin effects(using emerizing roller instead of raising
roller).
To produce warm cloth as well as soft one.
Types of machine:
Teasel raising m/c.
Card wire raising m/c.
Types of raising:
A. Napping.
B. Sueding.
A.Napping:
It is a mechanical finish.
Woven or knitted fabrics are passed against rotating wire covered rollers
to dig out individual fiber end to impart pile on fabric.
Comparatively higher pile is produce then sueding.
Have softer handle.
Better insulation properties due to more air entrapment.
2. Two main parts main cylinder(CP) & worker(P) rollers are used for napping.
Main cylinder wire direction is opposite to worker rollers. Main cylinder
rotational direction & fabric passing direction is same and worker rotational
direction is opposite with them.
Objectives of Napping:
Applied to woven, knitted fabric.
Surface maybe brushed in one direction(single napping) or in opposite
direction (double napping).
Soften fabrics.
Increase durability.
Create heavy surface with soft handling.
Factors which affect the degree of napping:
The speed of the worker rollers.
The type of wire.
The angled direction of wire.
Types of Napping M/C:
1. Double acting napper.
2. Single acting napper.
3. Knit goods napper.
B.Sueding:
It is a mechanical finish.
Similar to napping.
Produces a soft, suede-like surface.
3. An abrasive material, a type of sand paper is used instead of metal
wire that covered the cylinder surface.
Create low pile on surface than napping.
Specially done on silk fabric.
Factors that affect the napping:
Grit of sandpaper.
Speed of the fabric.
Speed of the sanding roller.
Pressure of the sandpaper on the cloth.
Number & direction of passes through process.
Difference between Napping & Sueding
No. Napping Sueding
1. Raising effect is produce
by metal wire roller
rotation.
Raising effect is produce
by sand paper covered
roller rotation.
2. High pile effect. Low pole effect.
3. Comparatively low cost. High cost.
4. Comparatively easy. More difficult.
5. Better insulation. Less insulated.
6. Applied on woven & knit
fabric.
Applied on silk fabric.
#Flannel: A plain or twill weave fabric with a napped surface typically
made from cotton or wool.
#Fleece fabric: A synthetic fabric made from polyester or other
synthetic fibers with napped surface.