Kopexil Aqua, Kumar’s new water soluble composition, is said to have multifunctional capabilities that not only prevent hair loss but also stimulate new hair growth.

1. HAIR CARE
I
n a recent podcast broadcast by
Euromonitor International, Oru
Mohiuddin, the research firm’s senior
analyst specialising in home and
personal care, stated the hair care
category worldwide weakened from 5.5
per cent in 2012 to 4.9 per cent in 2013,
yet it still performed better than other
categories in beauty and personal care.
‘The hair care category is becoming
increasingly segmented,’ she explains.
‘Manufacturers are moving towards
targeting less explored hair care concerns,
developing products with stronger
scientific claims.’
The lines of professional hair care
solutions and consumer or at-home care
are becoming even more blurred. Like
skin care, hair care products claiming
professional or more technical benefits
are now being tailored to tackle exact hair
care problems. These include product
innovations that provide lasting moisture
with natural oils, address the health of
the scalp, offer anti-ageing benefits, and
repair damaged hair.
In line with this trend, Greentech, which
is represented by Natchem in South Africa,
Untangling the opportunities
Hair care continues to remain the wonder category for breakthroughs in innovation
and product development and is more robust than both the skin care and colour
cosmetics markets. By Abby Vorster

2. 24 Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review June 2014 www.pharmacos.co.za
HAIR CARE
launched Dandrilys – an antidandruff active
that also combats itchy scalp. According
to Greentech, around 50 per cent of
people worldwide suffer from dandruff.
Aesthetically speaking this is a critical
problem as minuscule flakes drop onto
one’s shoulders, presenting a somewhat
‘dirty look’. The appearance of dandruff
is due to abnormal desquamation of
epidermis cells at scalp level. Proliferation
of the fungi, Malassezia enhances the
phenomenon provoking inflammation
from unpleasant itching, irritation or
excess sebum. Dandruff can also be
triggered by stress, hormone imbalance
or repeated scalp aggressions (like strong
detergents, hair dyes, or permanent hair
straighteners).
Greentech’s Dandrilys is said to be a
strong solution to counteract dandruff,
simultaneously restoring the self-esteem
and confidence of consumers. It also pre-
vents reappearance even after stopping
with treatment. Thanks to its richness in
saponins, Dandrilys is active in a number
of ways:
• immediate mechanical effect owing to
the physical foaming action of saponins
to remove dandruff
• long-term effect of saponins postpones
and limits dandruff reappearance.
In February 2014 Frost & Sullivan
presented Greentech with the 2014
European Frost & Sullivan Award for
New Product Innovation Leadership for
Dandrilys. This potent, plant-based natural
product mitigates scalp irritation, reduces
dandruff, normalises sebum production
and subsequently, facilitates the growth
of healthy hair. The active is developed
from the bark of Ziziphus joazeiro, an
evergreen plant native to South America.
The leaves and/or the bark of the plant
produce abundant foam upon mixing
with water. The detergency and foaming
properties of Dandrilys have been proven
to be 2.1 times higher than sodium laureth
sulphate, a surfactant that is commonly
used in shampoo and shower products.
Furthermore, the sugar constituents of the
ingredient comprise polysaccharides and
oligosaccharides, which offer moisturising
and calming effects to lower the irritation
caused by dandruff.
Hair loss innovations
Another sub-category of hair care sighted
by Mohiuddin as offering increasing
opportunity for product development is hair
loss. Alopecia, or hair loss, is a condition
that affects a considerable percentage of
the population worldwide. In South Africa, it
is estimated that more than 5 million people
suffer from androgenic alopecia, one of the
most common causes of hair loss.
Although alopecia can be linked to
several factors, including genetic disease
and the use of certain treatments and
drugs, as well as stress-induced alopecia,
it remains a condition which has not seen
any significant breakthroughs on how to
eradicate it.
According to Alfred Musper from
Enna Industrial Ingredients, ‘millions
of people worldwide seek professional
treatments linked to hair loss each year.
Yet treatment is costly, time consuming
and inconvenient’. Certain treatments also
have critical side effects, limiting their
spectrum of use,’ he adds.
Breakthroughs in natural ingredient
innovations have highlighted the super
fruit pomegranate for its wide array of
potentially healthy benefits, which are said
to combat hair loss.

3. HAIR CARE
Musper explains: ‘Studies have long
since established that pomegranates
contain the strongest natural antioxidants
found in nature and there is a proven
correlation between the punicalagins, the
polyphenol agent found in pomegranate,
and protective radical-suppressing effects,
such as LDL oxidation. Now, new research
is showing that pomegranate can also
inhibit MMP-9, a collagen-based enzyme
that induces apoptosis in the hair bulb that
leads to hair loss. Punicalagins can also
metabolise in the human bloodstream into
smaller, beneficial polyphenols such as
ellagic acid, which acts as a hair growth
stimulant. Pomegranate extract is easily
absorbed by the bloodstream which
stimulates the hair dermis faster and more
efficiently.’
But there is more, Pomegranate extract
can reduce prolactin production. Prolactin
is known to cause apoptosis-driven hair
follicle regression and by reducing its
presence, it helps in neutralising its role
in hair loss.
Enna offers Pomanox from Probeltebio
whichisapomegranateextractstandardised
for punicalagins. It is said to be 100 per
cent water soluble, with high bioavailability
hair pull tests with 20 randomly selected
volunteers taking Pomanox nutritional
supplements. Furthermore, there was an
increased hair density after a period of 60
days of treatment, as well as an increase
in the number of hairs in anagen/telogen
phases along with the improved hair
thickness.
Kumar Organics, which is represented in
South Africa by Unichem, has also launched
a breakthrough hair growth molecule to
prevent hair loss and restore hair growth by
acting directly on the hair cycle.
Kopexil Aqua, Kumar’s new water
soluble composition, is said to have
multifunctional capabilities that not only
prevent hair loss but also stimulate new
hair growth.
In an efficacy study carried out by
the company, Kopexil Aqua exhibited
significant reduction on 5-α reductase
activity in DU-145 cells at the highest tested
concentration. It blocks the formation of
dihydro testosterone (DHT), which is said
to be the main cause of miniaturisation of
In South Africa, more
than 5 million people
suffer from androgenic
alopecia, one of the
most common causes
of hair loss
“
”and reduced caloric content compared to
pomegranate juice. It is produced using
fresh Spanish pomegranate fruit and is
100 per cent free of organic solvents.
Recent tests carried out by Probeltebio
demonstrated significant improvement in

4. 26 Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review June 2014 www.pharmacos.co.za
HAIR CARE
hair follicles, by preventing the reaction of
5-Alpha reductase on the male hormone
testosterone.
In an open label phase II clinical
study carried out on 60 male subjects to
evaluate the safety and efficacy of the
water soluble compositions, along with
a five per cent solution of an equivalent
market sample, Kumar found Kopexil
Aqua to be therapeutically more superior.
Kopexil Aqua showed an increased mRNA
value (12.6 per cent) as compared to the
market sample (five per cent), which is
related to hair growth.
At in-cosmetics 2014, Evonik launched
a new active ingredient, Sphingony, which
has also been developed to combat hair
loss. According to the company, it prevents
hair loss by addressing scalp health and
rebalancing the life cycle of the hair.
Various in vitro studies have shown
that Sphingony balances the hair cycle
by inhibition of 5-α-reductase, improving
the scalp renewal capacity, stimulating
formation of essential building blocks like
proteins and ceramides and by improving
scalp health by equalising the microflora.
Extended in vivo studies have confirmed
that Sphingony significantly prevents hair
loss by prolonging the anagen growth
phase of hair while effectively improving
hair quality and scalp health.
Overall, Sphingony is a skin-identical
molecule with highly scientific claim
substantiation, which targets hair loss by
balancing the hair cycle, strengthening the
hair follicle and improving scalp health.
Straightening out a
serious issue
While ingredient innovations are central
to the continued progression of the hair
care category, consumers’ desire for
permanent hair straightening solutions are
marred with controversy and concerns of
serious health risks.
According to Janine Wilson, technical
manager of the Cosmetic, Toiletry &
Fragrance Association (CTFA), although
there are several types of straightener
systems available on the market, not all
systems are considered compliant with
safety regulations. These include those
developed for salon professional use and
consumer use at home.
She adds, ‘It is important to understand
there are different systems for the various
hair products and the difference between
regulatory compliant straighteners and
Brazilian straighteners, which raise
concerns around consumer safety as
CTFA – www.ctfa.co.za
Enna Industrial Ingredients –
www.ennaii.co.za
Evonik – www.evonik.com
Natchem – www.natchem.co.za
Unichem – www.unichem.co.za
they contain banned substances such as
formaldehyde and formaldehyde donors.’
Hair products containing formaldehyde
or formaldehyde donors are categorised
as toxic in many countries including South
Africa. ‘Despite this, hair technicians are
administering products containing these
banned and harmful ingredients to their
own detriment and to the detriment of
their clients and visitors to the salons,’
says Wilson. ‘These products release a
gas when heat is applied to the hair in
the form of straightening irons. This gas is
dangerous to the lungs and is carcinogenic
in nature. Certain brands have been known
to include formaldehyde-free wording on
their packaging when in fact the products
contain alternative actives that release
the same toxic fumes as formaldehyde
containing products.’
The CTFA does not support hairdressing
salon processes using formaldehyde or
formaldehyde donor products due to the
proven dangers and safety issues for
consumers and technicians alike. 