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3LSAN ANTONIO EXPRESS-NEWS SUNDAY, MARCH 25, 2007
D
because rain patterns are spotty
around central Texas,” Simmons
says. “The Hill Country tends to
be the best.”
Savvy flower aficionados al-
ready know to head to the Hill
Country. To help narrow your
search, the Texas Department of
Transportation runs a toll-free
hot line that offers information
on particularly lush wildflower
areas on any given day, as well as
highway conditions. The number
is (800) 452-9292.
Timing your trip
Anytime from mid-March into
May holds the promise of good
wildflower sightings. Pick a
weekend when you can roll the
windows down on the car.
One indicator that the country-
side around your community
might be particularly flush is, no
big surprise here, the lawns at
and around your home.
“It’s warmer in town, since the
buildings and concrete tend to
hold a lot of heat,” Price says.
That means, generally speaking,
that wildflowers bloom first in
town. So if you see a few poking
up through the grass in the cor-
ner lot, odds are they’ll be com-
ing up in spades just outside the
city limit about a week later.
“That’s our peak season:
Spring Break into early April,”
Price says.
Around the state
Predicting wildflowers is a lot
like predicting the weather: It’s
best not to get too specific.
“There’s always a lot of ‘crystal
ball’ to this,” Price cautions.
It doesn’t take a degree in
Harry Potter to know that, no
matter how the roadsides ac-
tually look this year, communi-
ties across the state will be put-
ting on the ritz for a variety of
festivals. There are at least three
bluebonnet festivals scheduled
for the same weekend in April,
with the towns and events billing
themselves as “The Official Blue-
bonnet Capital of Texas,” “The
Official Bluebonnet City” and
“The Official Bluebonnet Fes-
tival.”
That’s a lot of “official” flowers
for one weekend (April 14-15).
The good news? Lots of choices
for your bluebonnet photos.
Burnet, the “Official Bluebon-
net Capital of Texas,” according
to the Texas Legislature, will
host the 24th Annual Bluebonnet
Festival featuring parades, an air
show and live music. Call (512)
756-4297 or visit www.
burnetchamber.org for informa-
tion.
Ennis, which bills itself as the
“Official Bluebonnet City and
the Official Bluebonnet Trail of
Texas,” offers up the Bluebonnet
Trails Festival, featuring driving
maps, bluebonnet souvenirs and
festival attractions. Call (888) 366-
4748 or go to www.visitennis.org
Chappell Hill will host “The
Official Bluebonnet Festival of
Texas,” also featuring live music,
vendors and bluebonnet viewing,
that same weekend. Call (979)
836-6033 or visit www.chappell-
hillmusuem.org.
More places to tiptoe through
the tulips . . . er, pirouette
through the paintbrushes:
The 47th Annual Azalea and
Spring Flower Trail festival,
Tyler. Through April 1. Call (800)
235-5712.
Texas’ Largest Azalea Gar-
den and Azalea Trail Event, Na-
cogdoches. Through April 1. Call
(888) OLDEST-TOWN.
Texas Dogwood Trails Cele-
bration, Palestine. Today, Satur-
day-April 1, April 7-8. Call (800)
659-3484.
Annual Wildflower Art Show,
Salado. April 7-8. Call (254) 947-
5040.
Annual Pedernales Valley
Wildflower Celebration, Freder-
icksburg. April 7-22. Call (800)
848-0078.
Annual Denton Redbud Fes-
tival, Denton. April 14. Call (940)
349-8737.
East Texas Wildflower Trails,
Henderson. April 15-May 31. Call
(866) 650-5529.
Nature Quest, Concan. April
24-29. Call (800) 210-0380.
Wildflower Trails of Texas
Festival, Avinger. April 27-29. Call
(903) 562-1000.
For more information on wild-
flower events, visit www.tour
texas.com.
jlaster@express-news.net
Yes, bluebonnets are Texas’ bread-and-butter bloom, but don’t
forget the less-revered but equally vibrant flowers that line the
roadways of the Lone Star State all spring.
In March, watch for bluebonnets, Indian paintbrush, winecups,
blackfoot daisy, Drummond phlox and giant spiderwort.
April brings Indian blanket, foxglove, rose mallow and the heady
blooms of the Texas lantana, while May boasts Mexican hat,
black-eyed Susan, the pink evening primrose, butterfly weed and
more.
Visit the Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center online at
www.wildflower.org for more information on making the most of
the wildflower spring spotting season.
— Jennifer Roolf Laster
BLUEBONNETS PLUS
Our suggestion is to stay in town
on the river. There are a bunch of
places just outside in the hills.
In town options
■ Rim-Pai Cottages
(66) 053-699-133
www.rimpaicottage.com
Riverside suite sleeps two, from
2,000 THB to 3,200 THB ($60 to
$97), depending on season
■ Villa de Pai
(66) 053-699-109
www.villadepai.com
Riverside bungalows, sleeps two,
starts at 350 THB ($10.50) in the
off season
How to get there
From Chiang Mai, buses leave
from the Arcade Bus Station.
Tickets cost 80 THB ($2.40) one
way; some have air conditioning,
and others don’t — air 100 THB
($3) — five hours.
Many companies have chartered
minivans, a much better option
while braving the roads. Tickets
cost 150 THB ($4.50), with air
conditioning. We recommend Aya
Service, with five daily departures.
(66) 053-699-940, e-mail:
ayaservice1999@yahoo.com
Getting around
Pai is small enough to get by on
foot, but for day trips we
recommend renting transport.
Aya rents motorbikes starting at
100 THB per day ($3) — 100cc,
with an option to return it in
Chiang Mai. Along the same road
as the bus station are numerous
places to rent bicycles for 30 THB
(90 cents) per day.
IF YOU GO
tons screaming. Tires nearly
slide off the edges of the road on
300-degree turns or come to a
screeching halt to avoid cows
roaming in herds. However,
once you descend from the
mountains and your stomach
settles, you quickly come to say,
“I love this place!”
Pai’s main draw is its relaxed
vibe and natural setting, and lo-
cals claim that this is why they,
too, love their home. “It’s a
lovely town,” local resident Aey
boasts, and adds that the people
are very friendly, “just like in
the countryside.”
Travelers agree. “This is an
amazing place — it is totally eco
around here,” Israeli traveler Ed
Aharoni said. “When you have
nature around you, you clear
your head and forget all the
troubles back home.”
Simply stated, Pai gives you
the feeling that you just took a
long, hard deep breath.
Outdoor adventure
Pai appears as a tic-tac-toe of
small streets on a map, each
lined with outdoor adventure
opportunities from river rafting
and kayaking, to treks through
hill tribe villages. Bakeries and
restaurants offer international
cuisine ranging from Mexican
burritos to Indian samosas and
back again to local northern
Thai fare. Coffee shops host live
music and Internet shops offer a
chance to connect with those
back home. Lisu tribeswomen
line the streets dressed in tradi-
tional clothing, weaving hand-
bags and belts in an assortment
of vibrant colors.
At the corner of town is Pai’s
oldest resort, Rim-Pai Cottages,
where I sat and spoke with the
hotel manager, Rath, and cottage
employee Aey, in their well man-
icured gardens. Aey began by
telling me that in the last four
or five years Pai has grown con-
siderably with the influx of tour-
ism, and it has brought with it
both “some bad and some
good.” It has brought a lot of ec-
onomic good to the area, and job
diversity here has come a ways
from simply “gardeners and
farmers,” Rath added. But, as
land prices have risen, local
ownership has declined. Pai res-
idents own only 10 percent of
the land inside the actual town;
the rest is owned by businesses
in Bangkok, or by foreigners.
Now with a new airport, Pai
moves forward in developing its
tourist infrastructure, though
cautiously. The local government
recently banned further con-
struction along the river both to
limit tourism as well as for
safety reasons. Pai is still clean-
ing up after severe floods in ’05.
There is a “dramatic change” in
the landscape — “the river is ex-
panding and so, too, is the city,”
Rath said. Yet, even with the in-
flux of tourism over the past two
decades, this village remains
steadfast in its limits on further
growth in comparison to other
popular tourist destinations.
“We don’t want to be Pattaya,
we don’t want to be Samui, we
want to be Pai!” Rath exclaimed.
On the village outskirts, out-
door adventure lurks around ev-
ery corner. The natural beauty
reaches a climax at Mor Paeng
waterfall and Muang Pang hot
springs. A variety of tour com-
panies can arrange activities
from elephant rides through the
jungle to kayaking downriver.
To best experience the area, I
recommend renting a motorbike
or bicycle and just set off with a
map, as many hill tribe villages
dot the area, including Lisu,
Lahu and Yunnan, and the land-
scape is worth taking in with
the wind in your face.
I rented a motorbike in town
and drove west to the Yunna-
nese village, which
was originally settled
by members of the
Kuomintang (KMT)
army. Following the
rise of Communist
China in 1949, these
mainly Yunnan KMT
regiments fled to
northern Burma
(now Myanmar), un-
able to join others in
Taiwan. In 1961 Bur-
ma’s Yangon govern-
ment forced them to
leave, so they reset-
tled in northern
Thailand. Crossing
into Thailand on
pony caravan, the
Yunnanese settled
into mountain vil-
lages and re-created
their societies, much
like those they had left behind
in China.
Upon arrival at the Chinese
Yunnan Cultural Center, we
were greeted by a round, jovial
woman who served us warm
green tea shots before joining us
to explain the added health ben-
efits of green tea. She delivered
the tea to the table with a small
shot glass turned upside down
inside a small cup. As she lifted
the shot glass, the green tea per-
fectly filled the cup. I was
amazed when she then took the
warm shot glass and put it up to
her left eye, showing us that
warm green tea serves multiple
functions. As a tea lover and re-
gardless of how silly I would
look with a shot glass coming
out of my eye, I tried it and was
pleasantly surprised by the feel-
ing it brought to my tired eyes.
As night falls upon Pai, jazz
and blues come alive at BeBop
Café, and live guitarists strum
their strings at shisha bars in
between puffs of flavored hoo-
kah. My favorite night was
spent over the barbecue pit at
our backpackers’ village — a
community feast organized by
Israelis, with fresh meats and
vegetables, whiskey and beer.
The chatter of many languages
filled the air as we feasted. It felt
like living on a kibbutz, but then
I was reminded that I was in Pai
— a village with a community
feeling.
Truth be told, a slice of Pai is
like a piece of heaven. With an
idyllic natural setting, it is
worth a trek up to the north to
experience a different Thailand.
It’s no wonder Pai has grown —
more and more people have
come to this enchanting village
in the mountains to experience
its spirit first hand. Its pleasant
mixture of cultures is testament
to just how many people have
come to stay for a while and
have made it home.
Southern California native
Lisa Ashley Warshaw has
lived from Spain to Costa Rica
to Thailand. She recently
served as a World Partners
Fellow for American Jewish
World Service working with
Thailand’s foremost alterna-
tive media organization in
Chiang Mai. She is currently
journeying through Southeast
Asia.
Houston native Karla Held re-
cently completed an odyssey
that took her through Africa
as well as Central and South-
east Asia. See MySA.com, Key-
word: Travel, for her photo es-
say and slide show on the Voo-
doo Festival of Benin.
PHOTOS BY KARLA HELD/SPECIAL TO THE EXPRESS-NEWS
Chinese architectural influence can be seen in this building on the way to the Yunnanese Chinese village.
Pai has superb natural setting,
cultural charms, outdoor fun
CONTINUED FROM 1L
A worker moves materials around tourist bungalows.
The friendly residents of Pai
love their small town.
Between the well marked maps and the lo-
cal women’s helpful advice, it’s hard to get
lost in downtown Pai.
Wildflowers strewing color
along Texas roadsidesCONTINUED FROM 1L
COURTESY PHOTOS
The giant spider-
wort (Tradescan-
tia gigantean)
sports pretty pur-
ple and lilac flow-
ers on long
stems.
FROM LEFT: The blackfoot daisy (Melampodium leucanthum), variegated winecup (Callirhoe involucrata, va-
riety lineariloba) and Drummond phlox (Phlox drummondii) are out there for the viewing.

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Bluebonnets Plus: A Guide to Spring Wildflowers in Texas Hill Country

  • 1. 3LSAN ANTONIO EXPRESS-NEWS SUNDAY, MARCH 25, 2007 D because rain patterns are spotty around central Texas,” Simmons says. “The Hill Country tends to be the best.” Savvy flower aficionados al- ready know to head to the Hill Country. To help narrow your search, the Texas Department of Transportation runs a toll-free hot line that offers information on particularly lush wildflower areas on any given day, as well as highway conditions. The number is (800) 452-9292. Timing your trip Anytime from mid-March into May holds the promise of good wildflower sightings. Pick a weekend when you can roll the windows down on the car. One indicator that the country- side around your community might be particularly flush is, no big surprise here, the lawns at and around your home. “It’s warmer in town, since the buildings and concrete tend to hold a lot of heat,” Price says. That means, generally speaking, that wildflowers bloom first in town. So if you see a few poking up through the grass in the cor- ner lot, odds are they’ll be com- ing up in spades just outside the city limit about a week later. “That’s our peak season: Spring Break into early April,” Price says. Around the state Predicting wildflowers is a lot like predicting the weather: It’s best not to get too specific. “There’s always a lot of ‘crystal ball’ to this,” Price cautions. It doesn’t take a degree in Harry Potter to know that, no matter how the roadsides ac- tually look this year, communi- ties across the state will be put- ting on the ritz for a variety of festivals. There are at least three bluebonnet festivals scheduled for the same weekend in April, with the towns and events billing themselves as “The Official Blue- bonnet Capital of Texas,” “The Official Bluebonnet City” and “The Official Bluebonnet Fes- tival.” That’s a lot of “official” flowers for one weekend (April 14-15). The good news? Lots of choices for your bluebonnet photos. Burnet, the “Official Bluebon- net Capital of Texas,” according to the Texas Legislature, will host the 24th Annual Bluebonnet Festival featuring parades, an air show and live music. Call (512) 756-4297 or visit www. burnetchamber.org for informa- tion. Ennis, which bills itself as the “Official Bluebonnet City and the Official Bluebonnet Trail of Texas,” offers up the Bluebonnet Trails Festival, featuring driving maps, bluebonnet souvenirs and festival attractions. Call (888) 366- 4748 or go to www.visitennis.org Chappell Hill will host “The Official Bluebonnet Festival of Texas,” also featuring live music, vendors and bluebonnet viewing, that same weekend. Call (979) 836-6033 or visit www.chappell- hillmusuem.org. More places to tiptoe through the tulips . . . er, pirouette through the paintbrushes: The 47th Annual Azalea and Spring Flower Trail festival, Tyler. Through April 1. Call (800) 235-5712. Texas’ Largest Azalea Gar- den and Azalea Trail Event, Na- cogdoches. Through April 1. Call (888) OLDEST-TOWN. Texas Dogwood Trails Cele- bration, Palestine. Today, Satur- day-April 1, April 7-8. Call (800) 659-3484. Annual Wildflower Art Show, Salado. April 7-8. Call (254) 947- 5040. Annual Pedernales Valley Wildflower Celebration, Freder- icksburg. April 7-22. Call (800) 848-0078. Annual Denton Redbud Fes- tival, Denton. April 14. Call (940) 349-8737. East Texas Wildflower Trails, Henderson. April 15-May 31. Call (866) 650-5529. Nature Quest, Concan. April 24-29. Call (800) 210-0380. Wildflower Trails of Texas Festival, Avinger. April 27-29. Call (903) 562-1000. For more information on wild- flower events, visit www.tour texas.com. jlaster@express-news.net Yes, bluebonnets are Texas’ bread-and-butter bloom, but don’t forget the less-revered but equally vibrant flowers that line the roadways of the Lone Star State all spring. In March, watch for bluebonnets, Indian paintbrush, winecups, blackfoot daisy, Drummond phlox and giant spiderwort. April brings Indian blanket, foxglove, rose mallow and the heady blooms of the Texas lantana, while May boasts Mexican hat, black-eyed Susan, the pink evening primrose, butterfly weed and more. Visit the Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center online at www.wildflower.org for more information on making the most of the wildflower spring spotting season. — Jennifer Roolf Laster BLUEBONNETS PLUS Our suggestion is to stay in town on the river. There are a bunch of places just outside in the hills. In town options ■ Rim-Pai Cottages (66) 053-699-133 www.rimpaicottage.com Riverside suite sleeps two, from 2,000 THB to 3,200 THB ($60 to $97), depending on season ■ Villa de Pai (66) 053-699-109 www.villadepai.com Riverside bungalows, sleeps two, starts at 350 THB ($10.50) in the off season How to get there From Chiang Mai, buses leave from the Arcade Bus Station. Tickets cost 80 THB ($2.40) one way; some have air conditioning, and others don’t — air 100 THB ($3) — five hours. Many companies have chartered minivans, a much better option while braving the roads. Tickets cost 150 THB ($4.50), with air conditioning. We recommend Aya Service, with five daily departures. (66) 053-699-940, e-mail: ayaservice1999@yahoo.com Getting around Pai is small enough to get by on foot, but for day trips we recommend renting transport. Aya rents motorbikes starting at 100 THB per day ($3) — 100cc, with an option to return it in Chiang Mai. Along the same road as the bus station are numerous places to rent bicycles for 30 THB (90 cents) per day. IF YOU GO tons screaming. Tires nearly slide off the edges of the road on 300-degree turns or come to a screeching halt to avoid cows roaming in herds. However, once you descend from the mountains and your stomach settles, you quickly come to say, “I love this place!” Pai’s main draw is its relaxed vibe and natural setting, and lo- cals claim that this is why they, too, love their home. “It’s a lovely town,” local resident Aey boasts, and adds that the people are very friendly, “just like in the countryside.” Travelers agree. “This is an amazing place — it is totally eco around here,” Israeli traveler Ed Aharoni said. “When you have nature around you, you clear your head and forget all the troubles back home.” Simply stated, Pai gives you the feeling that you just took a long, hard deep breath. Outdoor adventure Pai appears as a tic-tac-toe of small streets on a map, each lined with outdoor adventure opportunities from river rafting and kayaking, to treks through hill tribe villages. Bakeries and restaurants offer international cuisine ranging from Mexican burritos to Indian samosas and back again to local northern Thai fare. Coffee shops host live music and Internet shops offer a chance to connect with those back home. Lisu tribeswomen line the streets dressed in tradi- tional clothing, weaving hand- bags and belts in an assortment of vibrant colors. At the corner of town is Pai’s oldest resort, Rim-Pai Cottages, where I sat and spoke with the hotel manager, Rath, and cottage employee Aey, in their well man- icured gardens. Aey began by telling me that in the last four or five years Pai has grown con- siderably with the influx of tour- ism, and it has brought with it both “some bad and some good.” It has brought a lot of ec- onomic good to the area, and job diversity here has come a ways from simply “gardeners and farmers,” Rath added. But, as land prices have risen, local ownership has declined. Pai res- idents own only 10 percent of the land inside the actual town; the rest is owned by businesses in Bangkok, or by foreigners. Now with a new airport, Pai moves forward in developing its tourist infrastructure, though cautiously. The local government recently banned further con- struction along the river both to limit tourism as well as for safety reasons. Pai is still clean- ing up after severe floods in ’05. There is a “dramatic change” in the landscape — “the river is ex- panding and so, too, is the city,” Rath said. Yet, even with the in- flux of tourism over the past two decades, this village remains steadfast in its limits on further growth in comparison to other popular tourist destinations. “We don’t want to be Pattaya, we don’t want to be Samui, we want to be Pai!” Rath exclaimed. On the village outskirts, out- door adventure lurks around ev- ery corner. The natural beauty reaches a climax at Mor Paeng waterfall and Muang Pang hot springs. A variety of tour com- panies can arrange activities from elephant rides through the jungle to kayaking downriver. To best experience the area, I recommend renting a motorbike or bicycle and just set off with a map, as many hill tribe villages dot the area, including Lisu, Lahu and Yunnan, and the land- scape is worth taking in with the wind in your face. I rented a motorbike in town and drove west to the Yunna- nese village, which was originally settled by members of the Kuomintang (KMT) army. Following the rise of Communist China in 1949, these mainly Yunnan KMT regiments fled to northern Burma (now Myanmar), un- able to join others in Taiwan. In 1961 Bur- ma’s Yangon govern- ment forced them to leave, so they reset- tled in northern Thailand. Crossing into Thailand on pony caravan, the Yunnanese settled into mountain vil- lages and re-created their societies, much like those they had left behind in China. Upon arrival at the Chinese Yunnan Cultural Center, we were greeted by a round, jovial woman who served us warm green tea shots before joining us to explain the added health ben- efits of green tea. She delivered the tea to the table with a small shot glass turned upside down inside a small cup. As she lifted the shot glass, the green tea per- fectly filled the cup. I was amazed when she then took the warm shot glass and put it up to her left eye, showing us that warm green tea serves multiple functions. As a tea lover and re- gardless of how silly I would look with a shot glass coming out of my eye, I tried it and was pleasantly surprised by the feel- ing it brought to my tired eyes. As night falls upon Pai, jazz and blues come alive at BeBop Café, and live guitarists strum their strings at shisha bars in between puffs of flavored hoo- kah. My favorite night was spent over the barbecue pit at our backpackers’ village — a community feast organized by Israelis, with fresh meats and vegetables, whiskey and beer. The chatter of many languages filled the air as we feasted. It felt like living on a kibbutz, but then I was reminded that I was in Pai — a village with a community feeling. Truth be told, a slice of Pai is like a piece of heaven. With an idyllic natural setting, it is worth a trek up to the north to experience a different Thailand. It’s no wonder Pai has grown — more and more people have come to this enchanting village in the mountains to experience its spirit first hand. Its pleasant mixture of cultures is testament to just how many people have come to stay for a while and have made it home. Southern California native Lisa Ashley Warshaw has lived from Spain to Costa Rica to Thailand. She recently served as a World Partners Fellow for American Jewish World Service working with Thailand’s foremost alterna- tive media organization in Chiang Mai. She is currently journeying through Southeast Asia. Houston native Karla Held re- cently completed an odyssey that took her through Africa as well as Central and South- east Asia. See MySA.com, Key- word: Travel, for her photo es- say and slide show on the Voo- doo Festival of Benin. PHOTOS BY KARLA HELD/SPECIAL TO THE EXPRESS-NEWS Chinese architectural influence can be seen in this building on the way to the Yunnanese Chinese village. Pai has superb natural setting, cultural charms, outdoor fun CONTINUED FROM 1L A worker moves materials around tourist bungalows. The friendly residents of Pai love their small town. Between the well marked maps and the lo- cal women’s helpful advice, it’s hard to get lost in downtown Pai. Wildflowers strewing color along Texas roadsidesCONTINUED FROM 1L COURTESY PHOTOS The giant spider- wort (Tradescan- tia gigantean) sports pretty pur- ple and lilac flow- ers on long stems. FROM LEFT: The blackfoot daisy (Melampodium leucanthum), variegated winecup (Callirhoe involucrata, va- riety lineariloba) and Drummond phlox (Phlox drummondii) are out there for the viewing.